Power Steering Flush

Started by Reeflodge, February 25, 2017, 10:01

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Reeflodge

Does anyone have a step by step guide/instructions/walkthrough on how to flush and change the power steering fluid as mine has probably been in there since 2000 and needs a change!
2000 PFL Yellow MR2 Roadster
http://www.fredwoodman.co.uk

Bossworld

#1
I was planning on trying this method -  m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuPALAn ... L&index=22 m

OK so there'll be a bit left behind but if it's 80% new stuff and it avoids any risk of killing the pump by running it dry, I'm happy to go for that method.

Carolyn

#2
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

shnazzle

#3
Flushes itself really. I've only done this once on the pre-fl.
I really need to do mine as well, but the fluid is so expensive  s:( :( s:(
There were rumours of some Mobil fluid being half the price and same spec.

- Suck out the fluid using baster or syringe
- Unplug top return hose. Feed it down through one of the slots in the front plastic cover and into a container.
- start engine and turn wheel lock to lock until you feel a lot of resistance.
- turn off engine.
- plug return hose back in
- fill bottle with new fluid
- start engine and turn lock to lock once. Turn off engine.
- top up fluid, leave to sit for 10 mins
- start engine turn lock to lock
- check fluid, top up if necessary
...neutiquam erro.

shnazzle

#4
Oh, block off the plug where the return hose was  s:) :) s:)
I made the mistake of forgetting
...neutiquam erro.

Reeflodge

#5
2000 PFL Yellow MR2 Roadster
http://www.fredwoodman.co.uk

Bossworld

#6
Quote from: "Reeflodge"Anyone tried this?
 m https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/7k/Total-Flu ... ring+fluid m
That's what I've bought, might try it tomorrow

Reeflodge

#7
Let us know if it's any good.
It got lots of 5 star reviews!
2000 PFL Yellow MR2 Roadster
http://www.fredwoodman.co.uk

shnazzle

#8
The thing is... Only time will tell
...neutiquam erro.

Carolyn

#9
I've been doing some research.  Apparently, the major issue is viscosity.  The gold coloured stuff (as in Toyota Electric power steering fluid) is a lot thinner than the pink stuff.  A few folk say Peugeot do one (also gold) that is a direct substitute for 1/3 the price.  As you'll only ever do the job once, I can't see not using the Toyota item. (That's most unusual for me as I'm no big fan of dealer items).
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

paulj

#10
Carolyn, I follow your logic and also agree with dealer option.  If you only do something once then do it well and best. Save the cost cutting for consumables
Today
2000 x reg pfl - blue - as original no mods
In the late 1980's
1982 x reg Toyota Corolla Liftback Coupe (also blue)
1978 s reg Mitsubishi Celeste Coupe (yellow)

Bossworld

#11
Quote from: "Carolyn"I've been doing some research.  Apparently, the major issue is viscosity.  The gold coloured stuff (as in Toyota Electric power steering fluid) is a lot thinner than the pink stuff.  A few folk say Peugeot do one (also gold) that is a direct substitute for 1/3 the price.  As you'll only ever do the job once, I can't see not using the Toyota item. (That's most unusual for me as I'm no big fan of dealer items).
Similar things on IMOC.

The Amazon blurb focuses quite a lot on viscosity, and from reading around there's also a massive difference between power steering fluid, and EHPS (what ours use, and what the Total stuff is classed as).  You'd have to hope there's not a massive discrepancy between the various types of EHPS stuff but I've spent so many hours reading up on different transmission/transaxle oils, coolants, EHPS fluids that I'll end up going mad if I don't just try something out.

I can't bring myself to pay £30 odd for something I got for £6 elsewhere - if I knacker my pump well it making a whine anyway so haven't got much to lose and at least we'll all know not to use it.

Assuming the original stuff has been in there for 12 years, again you'd have to assume anything broadly similar will be an improvement.

shnazzle

#12
I have to agree with the approach of trying it  s:) :) s:)  Especially if the pump is iffy anyway. It is a massive price difference
...neutiquam erro.

Bossworld

#13
FWIW -  m http://www.ravenol.de/uploads/tx_raveno ... luid_1.pdf m

Look at the recommended for, there's our Toyota number and references to others - PSA (Peugeot/Citroen etc).

Hopefully someone with better knowledge than me can confirm the scale of the numbers and how far a range is acceptable:

Quick comparison

Total at 40 degrees: 18    Ravenol:   19

Total at 100 degrees: 5.9   Ravenol 6,1

Total flash point:  157  Ravenol:  154

Total Viscosity index:  320   Ravenol  312

Bossworld

#14
Apologies for the double post, but done it now.

I did a second flush as per the video, the process uses so little fluid I've got around half a bottle left.

Seems much quieter when turning at low speed, which seemed to be the issue before.  The pump has a healthy electric whirring noise when 'idle' now.  I took the opportunity to WD40 the hell out of the rusty lower steering union joint but didn't notice any difference, so hopefully it's just cosmetic for me.

Stuff in the Ribena bottle is a mix of what came out the first time, and what came out the second time. The stuff on the right is the Total for comparison.


Joesson

#15
What came out looks like what it says on the bottle!

Carolyn

#16
Could be my lousy hearing, but I can't hear the pump on either of my cars.  Can everybody else hear theirs?
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

mrzwei

#17
The whine is a common issue which most think is an annoying precursor to a pump problem. The reality seems to be that it just goes on and on without causing any issues, l had mine for over 5 years.
If you get it then just ignore it, it usually goes away for a bit with just a slight touch of the steering wheel.
You should find loads of old posts about it.
Ex.MR2 SMT sadly missed.
Saab 9-5 Turbo, Hirsch stage 1, Sports suspension and anti roll bars, uprated disks, sports intake and filter and various other bits. 210bhp, 320Nm.
Talbot Express campervan with carb, distributor, coil and no cat! SOLD

JoeCool

#18
I can hear my Powersteering pump because it powers up with the key in 'Acc' now, after the 2ZZ swap, and you hear it before the engine fires. Just sounds how I'd expect an electric pump to sound. Electricky.
2ZZ '02 Roadster

Reeflodge

#19
Quote from: "Bossworld"Apologies for the double post, but done it now.

I did a second flush as per the video, the process uses so little fluid I've got around half a bottle left.

Seems much quieter when turning at low speed, which seemed to be the issue before.  The pump has a healthy electric whirring noise when 'idle' now.  I took the opportunity to WD40 the hell out of the rusty lower steering union joint but didn't notice any difference, so hopefully it's just cosmetic for me.

Stuff in the Ribena bottle is a mix of what came out the first time, and what came out the second time. The stuff on the right is the Total for comparison.


Hows the Power steering pump behaving since using the Total EHPS fluid?
2000 PFL Yellow MR2 Roadster
http://www.fredwoodman.co.uk

Bossworld

#20
No issues at all, covered approx 40 miles since.  Pump seems quieter.

I also took the opportunity to WD40 the rusty union joint as it's been a topical subject on here.

Reeflodge

#21
OK thanks I'm going to order the same product and a Turkey baster so I can do mine!
2000 PFL Yellow MR2 Roadster
http://www.fredwoodman.co.uk

furbern

#22
Just adding I have done a flush with Ravenol E-PSF which conforms to the Toyota spec. (You can buy it direct from Ravenol in the UK and a litre is 12.99). I disconnected the return hose to the pump and blanked the pump  off with a stub of pipe, a couple of hose clips and a bolt (some does spill when you disconnect the pipe). The end of the return hose I put into an empty 1 litre milk container, the perfect shape to go down in the space next to the pump. Then with the front jacked up, I swung the wheel lock to lock until no more fluid emerged into the milk container. I topped up the reservoir with new fluid and repeated. I topped up again and switched the engine on for a moment and pumped a few mls through (it does go down fast).Then I replaced the return hose and topped up to the cold max line on the reservoir. A few more lock to lock swings and the level had dropped so I topped it up again. Finally I dropped it ff the jack and checked the level. I used about three quarters of a litre. It all seems OK and the fluid is much much cleaner.

Bossworld

#23
I've now got a leak since this post.  The pipes look in a poor condition so I've ordered some pattern ones off eBay and another bottle of the Total stuff.

I reckon it's coincidental but worth mentioning it in case anyone else is staying to investigate PAS noises, worth checking for potential leaks

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