high power 2zz swap by jaworjawor

Started by jaworjawor, May 22, 2015, 20:26

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jaworjawor

#25
The head is ready and assembled with eibach springs. We mounted the head, then went on with pipercams stage 2 cams but unfortunately we were down on shims for inlet camshaft, had to order 8 of them (despite we have like hundreds of them in different sizes  s:D :D s:D  ) so then engine work is paused till friday















In the meantime I mounted whiteline bushes for front wishbones with caster correcting, this is gonna be a drift machine  s:) :) s:)




Anonymous

#26
Wow that head work looks superb!

jaworjawor

#27
shims arrived












1zz oil dipstick mounted (one custom mount). Note how 1zz and 2zz dipsticks show different levels, worth remembering when filling up oil






jaworjawor

#28
hmmm I was planning at first to remove and dump charcoal canister (because I needed space for oil cooler), but it looks like it is imposible without cel... I have a problem now, because I already sold my 1zz with most accesories. I have hard tubes to canister and from canister to engine, but that's it. What are other parts of the evap system?  Is it only one valve (vsv) from this diagram?



The wiring loom wants two vsv's, I don't know where is the second one...

jaworjawor

#29
ommg when will this 1st page finish... Ive got mooore photos!

jaworjawor

#30
Some progess. 1zz dipstick tube had to be modified a little, the original mounting tab had to be cut off because it collided with 2zz oil tube going from head cover to block.









Porting, polishing and port-matching to head the intake manifold




I designed and made myself thermal insulation intake gasket, the material and machining process is the same as cosworth, but finalled 3 times cheaper. I also made the same gasket for throttle body






shnazzle

#31
I hate you, your skills and your access to quality parts.
...neutiquam erro.

jaworjawor

#32
all quality parts are diy haha  s:) :) s:)  (except for pipers stage 2)   s8) 8) s8)  but thhe guy who helps me with engine has some proper skills in preparing racing engines

Anonymous

#33
Rather you than me going at it and attacking with an angle grinder  s:( :( s:(

JiMR2

#34
Amazing work, thank you for sharing  s:) :) s:)
AKA Cinnamon Jim

jaworjawor

#35
small update

-intake manifold finished, cleaned and bolted to the engine. In short all runners were portde, polished, portmatched to the head and composite gasket, the same from throttle body side.














-The same with throttle body itself - it was overbored and polished, also matched to manifold








This is something youre gonna like - I made my own anti roll bars  s;) ;) s;)  I had some experience with doing the same to my corolla with great results. I made them the same diameter as whiteline (22mm and 18mm) but with more holes for adjustability. Then powder coated


















And then... I made my own breastplate  s:) :) s:)  I already mounted my flex-cut "protype", but soon I will have one made from 4mm steel laser cut and powder coated. I made project, virtually tested and designed, it should work just as fine as corky's one





frootloops

#36
Wow, that's really impressive and also the first time I've seen someone make their own arb's. Nice work.

Mark A

#37
Loving the DIY anti roll bars

jaworjawor

#38
The engine is in the car!

But for starters:
-oversized oil pick up for better oil flow. Also note 6mm custom spacer for oil pickup. Stock 2zz oil pan has 11-12mm from oil pick up to the bottom of the oil pan, that is too much and this is why it is so easy to spin rod bearing. Cosworth and lotus engineers advise to have the oil pick up 5-6mm over the bottom of pan for protection from oil starvation, so this is a trick I recommend to any 2zz builder, take notes! Then 1zz oil pan is much better than 2zz because of the divider plate. It need a little modification to fit 2zz oil pick up, see photos below











-c60/c64 gearbox with lsd with new seals ready to be mounted with engine. Engine wire loom connected











Engine mounting. It took 4 hours for 2 people to fit. Note my custom bridge mount, it is a modified corolla t-sport part, it just needed some drilling, tweaking, a little spacer below (5-6mm) and fits like a glove. We didnt disconnect the ac compressor, so it was with the car waiting for the engine. I need to bolt it to the engine when it was half-mounted to the car, wasnt easy. Then the accessory belt - 1745mm long with a/c and mwr alternator wheel. A lot of time was consumed by oil lines to the cooler, it has to be tightened before engine goes in and needs to be 90 degree turn by the cooler, with I knew that before fitting engine  s:) :) s:)
















That's it for monday, then we finish swap and custmo weld exhaust system

jonty

#39
Cool progress! I like the arbs... Do you know how soft they are compared to stock or to whiteline?

jaworjawor

#40
they are just the same as whiteline. In steel there isnt really much about type of steel when it is on twisting momentum, all type of steel has the same 80gpa shear modulus which is responsible for twisting strengh. So it is all about dimensions (diameter, bar or pipe), but then it must be coil type spring with wide elisticity range

tomaky

#41
Very impressive  s:) :) s:)  the only question is why not make yourself a baffled sump?
Westfield Seiw
Skoda octavia vrs 2ltr 245bhp petrol 2023 estate
Ex-2011 Skoda Superb Estate 170 CR Daily Driver
Ex - 2005 Porsche Cayman S
Ex - 2003 Sable
Ex- 2000 Pre FL Blue THOR RACING Ex- TURBO
Ex 2004 Blue  Roadster RIP

jaworjawor

#42
in my experience lowered oil pick up is enough in 2zz to feel safe and 1zz sump is just for insurance. I'm not big fan of bigger pans because theyre are low in the car and more oil - more weight   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

tomaky

#43
Hehe, im sticking a baffled one on purely for track but im 1zz  s:) :) s:)
Westfield Seiw
Skoda octavia vrs 2ltr 245bhp petrol 2023 estate
Ex-2011 Skoda Superb Estate 170 CR Daily Driver
Ex - 2005 Porsche Cayman S
Ex - 2003 Sable
Ex- 2000 Pre FL Blue THOR RACING Ex- TURBO
Ex 2004 Blue  Roadster RIP

jonty

#44
Quote from: "jaworjawor". So it is all about dimensions (diameter, bar or pipe), but then it must be coil type spring with wide elisticity range

Cool, so you matched against some other whiteline bars you have or have seen previously?

jaworjawor

#45
I made them on the pattern of whiteline, the diameters I found on the internet. The holes location I took from tte bars ass my friend has a set but didn't want to sell me (even though he doesnt even have an mr2 but is planning to buy one   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  ) so I made them myself. I had previously done arb for my corolla, heck they worked so well I even organized group buy on local forum and sold like 30-40 of them   s8) 8) s8)  

 m http://forum.corollaclub.pl/viewtopic.p ... sc&start=0 m









jonty

#46
Sounds good! Do you fancy doing the same here? Arbs are expensive from whiteline, so if you can do approve that is more in line with mr2 budgets them I'm sure you'd sell plenty!

jaworjawor

#47
ok I'll think about it, but first I need to do some testing, checking all clearances and different settings if it works correctly, the price should be half of whteline or ultraracing

shnazzle

#48
Quote from: "jaworjawor"ok I'll think about it, but first I need to do some testing, checking all clearances and different settings if it works correctly, the price should be half of whteline or ultraracing
Let me be the first to say I will happily buy your products. Potentially a front strut bar?  s:) :) s:)
...neutiquam erro.

jaworjawor

#49
not sure if front strut brace helps anything, the front is very light in our cars. Maybe someone who installed one may tell if felt any difference

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