Turbo wanna be 1zz couple of questions

[Nvy]

I think most usually go with an ACT clutch and lighter flywheel, see below for the MWR clutches - they have the torque ratings as well, JUBA gearsets are rated to 295 ft/lbs so bear that in mind with the clutch.

 m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... onverters/ m

Basically you are looking for a sprung puck clutch rather than organic if you are wanting to go for higher power but still drive it on the street so for the ACT clutches probably a HDG6 or XTG6.

Pressure Plates:
Heavy Duty – HD
– Clamps load increase of 20% to 50%
– Pedal feels stock to moderate
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Xtreme – XT
– Clamps load increase of 50% to 120%
– Pedal feels moderate to stiff
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race

Discs:
Performance – SS
– Recommended for Street and Race
– Smooth engagement
– Easiest on transmission
– Longest lasting compound for street
– Most popular choice
Spring Centered (4 Pad) – G4
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G6 for high rpm shifting
Spring Centered (6 Pad) – G6
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G4 for handling extreme heat and punishment
Solid Hub (4 Pad) – R4
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Fastest shifts, low inertia
– Good durability but shortened spline life
– Very harsh engagement, chatter
Solid Hub (6 Pad) – R6
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Faster shifts, reduced inertia
– Very good durability but shortened spline life
– Absorbs more heat than 4 pad
– Harsh engagement, chatter

Thanks, the Gorilla one looks tasty from the description but im not sure, have to research on internet if anybody is using it.

[1979scotte]

I would get the lightest feeling clutch that will do the job.
Heavy clutch takes the shine off for me.
Helix auto sport is what was used on a lot of the SP240 cars.
Not sure what it's torque limit is but it feels close to stock in use.

[Nvy]

I would get the lightest feeling clutch that will do the job.
Heavy clutch takes the shine off for me.
Helix auto sport is what was used on a lot of the SP240 cars.
Not sure what it's torque limit is but it feels close to stock in use.

I know what u mean, i have really heavy clutch on my civic so i can relate. I collected all the parts and when i got the time i will list them here  s:) s:)

[m1tch]

I think most usually go with an ACT clutch and lighter flywheel, see below for the MWR clutches - they have the torque ratings as well, JUBA gearsets are rated to 295 ft/lbs so bear that in mind with the clutch.

 m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... onverters/ m

Basically you are looking for a sprung puck clutch rather than organic if you are wanting to go for higher power but still drive it on the street so for the ACT clutches probably a HDG6 or XTG6.

Pressure Plates:
Heavy Duty – HD
– Clamps load increase of 20% to 50%
– Pedal feels stock to moderate
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Xtreme – XT
– Clamps load increase of 50% to 120%
– Pedal feels moderate to stiff
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race

Discs:
Performance – SS
– Recommended for Street and Race
– Smooth engagement
– Easiest on transmission
– Longest lasting compound for street
– Most popular choice
Spring Centered (4 Pad) – G4
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G6 for high rpm shifting
Spring Centered (6 Pad) – G6
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G4 for handling extreme heat and punishment
Solid Hub (4 Pad) – R4
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Fastest shifts, low inertia
– Good durability but shortened spline life
– Very harsh engagement, chatter
Solid Hub (6 Pad) – R6
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Faster shifts, reduced inertia
– Very good durability but shortened spline life
– Absorbs more heat than 4 pad
– Harsh engagement, chatter

Thanks, the Gorilla one looks tasty from the description but I'm not sure, have to research on internet if anybody is using it.

Don't forget those might be MWR specials rather than UK stock, look to go with a sprung clutch, solid plate is no fun for the street and multi plate clutches are a bit too loud and harsh - had an ORC 709 clutch for the RX7.

Also think about the flywheel - you could look to lighten the stock flywheel slightly or go with a lightweight one, depending on what sort of drivability you need.

[Nvy]

I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction  to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them  s:D s:D  So Wiseco pistons to be  s:) s:)

Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.

Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that im sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.

[m1tch]

I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction  to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them  s:D s:D  So Wiseco pistons to be  s:) s:)

Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.

Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that I'm sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.

The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.

Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.

Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.

Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).

Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.

[Nvy]

I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction  to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them  s:D s:D  So Wiseco pistons to be  s:) s:)

Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.

Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that I'm sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.

The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.

Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.

Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.

Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).

Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.

There must be some kind of error here, for 6k you can get decent s2000 and for 6k i can have whatever engine i want swapped in this roadster around here. I wont be doing gears from jubu, also going to look for 2nd hand turbo with chargecooler from frozenboost. With mild engine build and chargecooler i hope to get in the 3k mark. Max that im going for is 10 psi for daily and occasionally 15-17 psi for showing off my smoking tires.

Side note: whats so expensive to get k engine in there? Axles or wiring? Engine mounts are 500$$ and axles are 900$$. You can see forged engines k20 to go around 2k pounds and its ready to be turboed once u get the cash for it. Ideally i would be able to find somebody locally to craft axles for me.

[1979scotte]

I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction  to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them  s:D s:D  So Wiseco pistons to be  s:) s:)

Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.

Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that I'm sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.

The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.

Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.

Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.

Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).

Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.

There must be some kind of error here, for 6k you can get decent s2000 and for 6k i can have whatever engine i want swapped in this roadster around here. I wont be doing gears from jubu, also going to look for 2nd hand turbo with chargecooler from frozenboost. With mild engine build and chargecooler i hope to get in the 3k mark. Max that I'm going for is 10 psi for daily and occasionally 15-17 psi for showing off my smoking tires.

Side note: whats so expensive to get k engine in there? Axles or wiring? Engine mounts are 500$$ and axles are 900$$. You can see forged engines k20 to go around 2k pounds and its ready to be turboed once u get the cash for it. Ideally i would be able to find somebody locally to craft axles for me.

It's something like 1200 quid for a standard rebuild.
Add pistons and rods forged obviously that's another 1200
Then you need a turbo. Had my fill of recon so brand new that would be 800 minimum.
ECU for a forged engine would have to be £1000 plus sensors and 600 quid for mapping. Link G4 or ECUmaster black no PFC or piggyback here.
Exhaust cooler pipes manifold and labour it all soon adds up.
Do you want stiffer valve springs or a lightened crank? Maybe sleeved?
It's all money.
I don't know where you live but you won't get any engine you like in a roadster for 6k.
A 3.5L 2gr is around 5k just for the engine.
I know nothing about running Subaru Mitsubishi Honda etc but I know Toyota MR2 ZZW30 and it's bloody expensive.

[Nvy]

The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.

Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.

Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.

Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).

Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.

There must be some kind of error here, for 6k you can get decent s2000 and for 6k i can have whatever engine i want swapped in this roadster around here. I wont be doing gears from jubu, also going to look for 2nd hand turbo with chargecooler from frozenboost. With mild engine build and chargecooler i hope to get in the 3k mark. Max that I'm going for is 10 psi for daily and occasionally 15-17 psi for showing off my smoking tires.

Side note: whats so expensive to get k engine in there? Axles or wiring? Engine mounts are 500$$ and axles are 900$$. You can see forged engines k20 to go around 2k pounds and its ready to be turboed once u get the cash for it. Ideally i would be able to find somebody locally to craft axles for me.

It's something like 1200 quid for a standard rebuild.
Add pistons and rods forged obviously that's another 1200
Then you need a turbo. Had my fill of recon so brand new that would be 800 minimum.
ECU for a forged engine would have to be £1000 plus sensors and 600 quid for mapping. Link G4 or ECUmaster black no PFC or piggyback here.
Exhaust cooler pipes manifold and labour it all soon adds up.
Do you want stiffer valve springs or a lightened crank? Maybe sleeved?
It's all money.
I don't know where you live but you won't get any engine you like in a roadster for 6k.
A 3.5L 2gr is around 5k just for the engine.
I know nothing about running Subaru Mitsubishi Honda etc but I know Toyota MR2 ZZW30 and it's bloody expensive.

Hey, i didnt mean to offend you in any way but from what Mitch said 6k is just the engine build and it seems a lot compared that you can buy already built engine off monkeywrench for around the same price or less, idk vat and shipping. Once im ready with prices checked i will post the total cost. Thats why i wrote u the PM about the V6 coz i wanted to know the price of the swap, i had no idea that u have so expensive engines around there.

P.S. Im also aware that toyota > honda in tuning prices and i know that i wont have a turbo for pennies.
P.S.2 Im from Sofia, Bulgaria. Mr2roc is the first forum i posted to introduce myself  s:) s:)

[Nvy]

I will share the reason for my 1000 questions. I want to be some kind of future proof so i will know that my money will go to the right place. I will be happy to invest 3-4k in a k20 swap and then turbo it in a year or two or have a turbo on stock internals and then go nuts with a built engine. Or best have V6 in there with 300 whp for a start and then turbo it if i get the itch for something different.

My only concern while researching is not to get above 1100 kg with all the braces and stuff because i will get into s2000 territory and i dont want to.

[1979scotte]

I will share the reason for my 1000 questions. I want to be some kind of future proof so i will know that my money will go to the right place. I will be happy to invest 3-4k in a k20 swap and then turbo it in a year or two or have a turbo on stock internals and then go nuts with a built engine. Or best have V6 in there with 300 whp for a start and then turbo it if i get the itch for something different.

My only concern while researching is not to get above 1100 kg with all the braces and stuff because i will get into s2000 territory and i dont want to.

My V6 weighs in at 1070 with half a tank of fuel.
Don't worry about an S2000 the engine is in the wrong place and it has no torque.

I would imagine things are cheaper in Bulgaria it is very expensive here.
Australia or the USA seem to be places where it is cheap to play with cars.

Importing from MWR just isn't viable in the UK there is 20% vat plus duty and shipping.

Do you want a track car or a street car?
I would go 2zz/k20 for a track car leaving it NA.
For a street car turbo a 1zz or put in a V6.

[m1tch]

I will post up my costs for my project a bit later for you to see the sorts of things you might need but not thought of.

[Nvy]

Id like it to be weekend warrior/track car/summer car to travel to the beach.

You got me curious i will check v6 3,5 engine and ask for prices around here. V6/k20-24 frank seems the best starting option for me to be honest.

I also wanted to check if i can get gears manufactured here for cheap, i dont want to earn money but i want to help community and it just looks overpriced. Either i go turbo or k engine i will let you know about prices for the expensive stuff coz im going to get them cooked locally.

When i was going hybrid on my honda i got it for 250 plus my turbo and some guys in uk was doing it for 550 plus turbo. Thats why i think id get some stuff done locally for less cash.

[m1tch]

Here are my projected costs for my project - for me if you buy cheap you buy twice - not good if the component failure causes other parts to be trashed:

Please note that the prices below are slightly rounded figures (and include VAT) as the cost might change slightly depending on supplier - I will be buying parts via TCB as they are very competitive:

Block - note this is non sleeved

Pistons - 8.8:1 Wiesco pistons - £590
Forged rods - £400
ARP head studs (OEM are single use) - £200
Main bearings - £33
Big end bearings - £24
Cylinder bore maching work - £120
Gasket set - Probably around £200 inc head gasket

Cylinder head

Forced induction camshaft - £430
Springs and retainers (needed for cam) - £450
Stainless steel valves - not costed these up but probably around £250 for the set

Gearbox

Rebuild including refreshed parts - guessing around £200
JUBA gearset - £1,100
Clutch - guessing around £300
Lightened Flywheel - £230

So far that's just coming up to £4.5k but that is also guessing a few costs, also I would probably add another £500 if I wanted to get sleeves and bore out to 82mm, which would then mean I have to get a Cometic head gasket adding on another £60 or there abouts.

Then we get to the expensive stuff:

AEM EMS4 ECU including base map - £1300
Fueling - injectors, rail mod, fuel pump, FPR - probably around £600 although might have a few parts on the shelf
Turbo - £250 - £1k
Custom exhaust - probably around £500 inc off the shelf manifold
Charge cooler plus pipework
Oil cooler (I have one on the shelf)
Meth injection kit (I have one on the shelf)

That's not to mention the extra supporting mods such as brakes, cooling, mapping/dyno time, gauges etc.

There is however a silver lining in this cloud - the cheapest Lotus Elise on Autotrader right now with 118bhp is currently £12k - my car will probably have cost that all in once finished, the option for me is:

2002 stock Lotus Elise with a 1.8l engine making 118bhp with expensive bodywork

Or

2003 Toyota MR2 with a 1.92L (ish) engine making over 400bhp with easy to replace and cheap bodywork that you have built yourself

What would you choose?

[Nvy]

2nd every day whole day. I will be looking into k20 swap parts and will research a bit. Put that way i agree that the price goes up.

Options for me:
1. k20 swap, depends on the prices of the wiring i think i can get away with 1300 dollars in total, no engine, tranny, header and exhaust in that number.
2. 1zz stock + turbo kit - collected parts by myself.
3. V6 3.5i
4. 2zz swap.

2zz is the least desirable coz no torque at all, not that the k20 has any but is a good start. The least hassle is obviously 1zz, i will be talking to my friend to get me prices of all these stuff but i guess these are going to be the same but in euros. Mapping here is cheap and if i use piggy back the cost will go down significantly.

Thanks Mitch and Scotte for replying to my stupid questions, you guys are the best!

[m1tch]

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Keep asking away, don't forget to look at the supercharger options.

[1979scotte]

What would you choose?

They are having this debate on the FB page.
I got my 2 because I didn't like M X 5 and I wanted something that handled well with a soft top.
Also cheap ish.
The lotus Elise is a fabulous car that will out handle most things let alone an MR2 however it isn't a comfortable place to sit and bodywork costs a fortune.
I don't want one.
Same as I don't want a Boxster.
I like modifying my 2.
Most people don't get it.
I am comfortable with that.

[Nvy]

I dont like lotus, i like mr2 looks and yeah i will modify it and keep it forever. Altho im sooooo much into cars i can own some more together with the Mr. I have a list so it will go one by one, keeping the Mr2 tho.

I get u scotte for sure, i love projects and after that i dont want to part with them. Is totally human quality  s:) s:)

[m1tch]

What would you choose?

They are having this debate on the FB page.
I got my 2 because I didn't like M X 5 and I wanted something that handled well with a soft top.
Also cheap ish.
The lotus Elise is a fabulous car that will out handle most things let alone an MR2 however it isn't a comfortable place to sit and bodywork costs a fortune.
I don't want one.
Same as I don't want a Boxster.
I like modifying my 2.
Most people don't get it.
I am comfortable with that.

I have had 3 mark 1 mx5s, they are good little cars they do feel like you are plugged into them and the gearbox is a joy to use. They are fairly common and most things have been done before plus a huge amount of rust! Later models are just heavier and flabbier and kinda lose the edge etc.

I've not driven the lotus but they are very expensive for what they are, as they aren't really the sort of car you can just chuck around and not worry about damage etc. They are lighter as standard but it's free to remove weight from the MR2.

Sure there are less off the shelf parts for our mr2 model but it just makes modding them more fun.

[1979scotte]

You won't make an MR2 handle as well as an Elise or give you the same steering feel.
Even if you managed to lose 100kg at which point the 2 looses its main advantage habitability.
The MR2 is a much better daily or tourer but if just for weekend blasts the Lotus is way better.
Not that I would like to pay the bill for a front or rear clam repair. Which would put me off taking it to the track which is obviously something it would excel at.
Not driven one but had a passenger ride in a vx220 modified with a supercharger.
It was awesome. It was the ride I was most impressed with. Same as when I drove a Cayman S this weekend.
Both handle brilliantly without the harshness you get from coil overs on a 2.

[Nvy]

I think 100kg is easy achievable w/o sacrificing anything. Lighter seats, some carbon hood and engine lid, remove soft top and add hardtop, add 5-6 point harness and remove the airbags.You could get to 900 kg but then again added bracing and engine swap/turbo will add some weight. Cayman S is appealing and on youtube videos its like on rails when turning, never driven one of them and probably will never drive as its not for mere mortals like me  s:) s:)

On a side note i have TTE springs and at the moment the drive is a lot better than my civic. I havent tried any spirited driving till now but once i get the car back i will try the twisties around  s:) s:)

[m1tch]

Check my thread on some of the weight I have removed (keep scrolling as I take other bits out as I go) - there is only a few kg in it between the hard top plus soft top and there is also the hard top brackets which also weigh something:

 l viewtopic.php?f=88&t=62144&start=90#p735672 l

I have pulled around 60kg from the car and it still looks fairly stock, will get some extra weight out when I change the exhaust and the heaterbox setup is also quite heavy, the facelift cars are slightly heavier due to the extra bracing btw. Full race weight eg strip everything it should be down to around 850kgs ish,

[Nvy]

k20-24 swap parts, i will leave this here in case somebody is interested(VAT NOT INCLUDED):

Innovative Toyota MR2 Conversion Mount Kit for K Series - 75A - 362 pounds   
BlackWorks Racing K Series Throttle Body Adapter - 32 pounds
Innovative MR2 K Series Axles - 549 pounds      
Innovative Shifter Adapter - 138 pounds
PNP Harness, A/C Mount and A/C Module Package Deal - PNP Harness Version Street Race - 401 pounds

**** Disclaimer The parts were in dollars so the end price in pounds will depend on the exchange rate. Also shipping is not included but should be around 100 pounds or so.

Hondata ECU - 300-400 pounds 2nd hand, you can easily obtain one in any facebook group

Locally crafted parts:
Header - 200 pounds or less
Exhaust - 300 pounds, with no cat, with cat around 400 +/- some change
Engine should be around 1000-1200 k20/24 frank

Mapping and we are ready to rock around 260hp and ~200 torque ofc no high revving stuff but good enough i guess.

Some cash can be returned from selling current parts that are in the car. I have really low miller 1zz around 56k miles(was replaced 2006 or 2008 year, got the papers) + 5 speed tranny supposedly with LSD.

[Nvy]

2gr engines are hard to find around here but i will be collecting some information on the swap as well. I have read on some high revving V6 NA stuff that are very appealing to me coz of the awesome noise.

[1979scotte]

2gr engines are hard to find around here but i will be collecting some information on the swap as well. I have read on some high revving V6 NA stuff that are very appealing to me coz of the awesome noise.

The noise is such an enjoyable part of the V6 equation.
Even if it only revs to 6.5k.

How plentiful are 1mzfe the vvti version if you can get it.
Or even the 3mz which just aren't available in the UK unless they're hybrid.