M1tch's long term 1ZZ build - Project 11

[lamcote]

MWR talk about needing to use a "torque plate" to do reboring on the 1zz to avoid future problems. I don't know what that is or if it is standard practice, but if not, is it worth checking if your engineering place would be doing that?

[m1tch]

MWR talk about needing to use a "torque plate" to do reboring on the 1zz to avoid future problems. I don't know what that is or if it is standard practice, but if not, is it worth checking if your engineering place would be doing that?

A torque plate is basically a large plate that bolts everything together to stop the bores moving when the block is bored and honed due to the open deck design.

[shnazzle]

Standard practice in big block v8 builds.
Also called a girdle.

Has anybody considered a stroker crank?
Surely a couple cc gain be gained there

[m1tch]

Standard practice in big block v8 builds.
Also called a girdle.

Has anybody considered a stroker crank?
Surely a couple cc gain be gained there

There are no stroker cranks out there. The 1zz already has the largest stroke the block can take, the 2zz engines have to run a stroker crank to get to 2 litre (ish) whereas we need to bore the cylinders out.

[lamcote]

MWR do a 93.5mm stroker for the 2zz so there perhaps is a bit to go at.

[m1tch]

MWR do a 93.5mm stroker for the 2zz so there perhaps is a bit to go at.

The stock stroke on a 2zz is 85mm (with 82mm bore), looks like that stroker crank goes to 93.5mm vs the stock stroke of 91.5mm on the 1zz so for the 2zz it goes from 1795.5cc to 1975.1cc so 2.2% more displacement than a 3mm overbore on a stock 1zz - the issue for me is that increasing the stroke on the high revving 2zz isn't ideal as its moving away from a square engine stroke ratio, yes the engine will pick up torque but the pistons speeds would increase.

[m1tch]

Small update, I have kinda tucked the car away for the winter which means I can look to sort out the soft top removal etc when I have some space in the garage.

I have also pulled out the battery which seems to not be able to hold any charge - the battery itself weighs 12.5kg, looking at the Odyssey extreme 25 battery it seems to weigh 7kg so just a 5.5kg saving in weight.

I also have 2 spare gearboxes in the garage, a 5 speed and a 6 speed, both with LSDs, might be going down the 6 speed route and rebuild with JUBA gears, did look at the E153 box but although it should hold the power the weight and ratios aren't favorable not to mention the cost for the conversion kit along with the availability of the boxes.

I might also be looking to run the MR2Link G4+ ECU instead of the AEM or PFC due to additional mapping and safeguard benefits built onto the chip.

Next step for me is to get the block bored and honed (after checking the bores and then ordering the pistons).

I am also looking at the different forged rods for the engine, my options are:

Bridgeway rods supplied by TCB - used in quite a few EVO builds
Molnar rods - from the US so need to check costs etc but are known to be good
ZRP rods - I have heard of the brand before and they do have some high HP builds using them

[1979scotte]

Unlike the PFC the link is not a plug in.
You will likely need A and B loom which isn't cheap.
I still think ECUMASTER offers the best bang for buck.
The unit and looms are cheaper with more features.

[m1tch]

Unlike the PFC the link is not a plug in.
You will likely need A and B loom which isn't cheap.
I still think ECUMASTER offers the best bang for buck.
The unit and looms are cheaper with more features.

There is the G4 storm wire in and there is also the G4+ plugin:

 m http://dealers.linkecu.com/TST205Plus m

[1979scotte]

Nope the plugin is not for the 1zz.
Previous generation celica and MR2. 3S engines.
Pretty sure I looked into this couple of years back.
There is F all plugin for the 1zz apart from the PFC.

[1979scotte]

 m http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/5896-to ... -base-map/ m

Second post confirms it.

[mikek]

No plug and play solutions except pfc for 1zz or 2zz. Believe me I'm trying to change this!!!! Motorsport electronics are going to make a patch loom in the new year but still haven't sorted the dash. Ecumaster have a 2zz for lotus and will build a plug and play for mr2 but haven't sorted the dash! Driving me nuts!

[Essex2Visuvesi]

There's P&P harness adaptor kits available for the Emanage Blue & Ultimate, AEM FIC 6 and many others
 l viewtopic.php?f=109&t=63282 l

There will Also be one for the Adaptonic M1200 next year

[1979scotte]

They're all mega money.
400 plus Vat!

[m1tch]

Thanks guys, yeah it seems that the 'MR2link V3' might be for the mk2 rev 3 model? Looks like the options are either the PFC or the AEM EMS4 as that comes with a plug and play harness etc.

Good to know that TCB can do the harnesses though so I guess the G4 Storm is also an option, I know that harnesses are very expensive due to the propitiatory connectors etc.

[tomaky]

You can make a harness  s;) s;)  start with a old 1zz ecu/harness, cut the pin block off the circuit board, map your splice's and solder away. Ive got a excel spread sheet which took me 7 hours to do which mapped my harness out for the Link.

[Paul@TCB]

They're all mega money.
400 plus Vat!

with these harnesses we make only a tiny amount of money on them, it's mainly just a supplying service
to offer more ECU options to the MR2ROC community,
they're actually not too expensive when you break it down though the link plugs for the ECU alone are £120 + VAT
then you've got the Loom and ECU extension harness which is expensive,
then all the wiring and work involved to make the harness to aircraft specification and know you're receiving a fully tested
high end produced component, that peace of mind is worth the extra money over a home crimped / soldered connection in my book really   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Thank you
Paul Pridham
Company Director
TCB Performance Parts Limited

[shnazzle]

Comes down to economies of scale doesn't it?
I agree with Paul, this is something you want to have be pretty solid. But the only way that costs are going to go down is if all of a sudden  the Link ecu market for 1zz shoots up.... Doubtful..  s:) s:)

[m1tch]

I am currently working through options for the ECU, looks like the Link G4 Storm ECU (without the extra MAP sensor I would need) plug and play vs the AEM EMS4 plug and play setup is around £400 more expensive.

I do currently have the PFC which should be ok for mapping on boost although not ideal as its not mapped by everyone and its not as clever coupled with no knock protection etc.

I do want to go with either the AEM EMS4 or the G4 - I guess I could look on the used market for either of them and then buy the plug and play harness on its own.

Need to sort out which features I will be using the most, I am leaning towards the G4 Storm as Link ECUs are well known and are more likely to have support.

[mikek]

Have you looked at the g4 link monsoon?

[m1tch]

Have you looked at the g4 link monsoon?

Looking more at the Storm rather than the Monsoon but might be a better value option and closer matched to the AEM EMS4 - will be looking to add other outputs such as meth injection as well so need to check the ECU isn't going to run out of inputs or outputs etc.

[m1tch]

Having a think about the timeline for this build I think I will look to do the following:

1. Build up engine over spring 2018
2. Run the current stock engine over the summer 2018 and do a few 1/4 mile runs to see what the performance is with the same engine but lower weight
3. Fit the engine in Summer/Autumn 2018 but run the engine NA (Might be looking at slightly closer to stock compression ratio on the forged pistons)
4. Run the built engine NA for most of 2019 probably using either the stock ECU or the PFC and start to collect parts for the turbo conversion, swap out injectors and fuel system etc
5. Bolt on turbo in 2020 running the Link G4+ Storm ECU

[m1tch]

Other things I want to sort on the car during 2018:

Coilovers from TCB - rear passenger shock is leaking slightly so want to change and refresh the current suspension
Link Xtreme ECU install and run MAFless (converting to MAP)
Refurb the wheels
Custom exhaust - smaller than the current TTE exhaust and to also fit lower to give additional clearance for the turbo pipework in the future
Remove seatbelt brackets from soft top frame etc
Mod the rear lights to include LED bulbs and perhaps black out some of the chrome parts
Race battery/move battery to the front
Front splitter
Tuft test to check airflow over stock hard top for aero work in the future

Will also be looking to do a few mods ready for the turbo install in 2020:

Uprated fuel pump
Return fuel system
1:1 RRFPR
VXR injectors - or indeed some IDX injectors

[shnazzle]

Why convert to MAP? I know it's kind of the done thing but a MAF (a bigger one) is so much more flexible than MAP.
Never saw the point of trying to calculate airflow when you could just measure it very accurately, and adjusted for temperature, using a MAF? Instead of MAP where you need to get the VE table spot on and install a separate IAT. And any changes to VE will shoot off your map.

Even if you use the stock maf, the Link will let you scale it (and the associated spark/fuel maps)

I guess if the name of the game is to chase as much power as possible and the map will be tweaked accordingly for every little change, MAP

[m1tch]

Why convert to MAP? I know it's kind of the done thing but a MAF (a bigger one) is so much more flexible than MAP.
Never saw the point of trying to calculate airflow when you could just measure it very accurately, and adjusted for temperature, using a MAF? Instead of MAP where you need to get the VE table spot on and install a separate IAT. And any changes to VE will shoot off your map.

Even if you use the stock maf, the Link will let you scale it (and the associated spark/fuel maps)

I guess if the name of the game is to chase as much power as possible and the map will be tweaked accordingly for every little change, MAP

Will look to run a MAF initially and will do for a fair while I think, would only need to move to a MAP sensor when a Subaru MAF becomes a restriction - running a MAP sensor only would be an option only chosen if it became an issue.

I have a feeling I should be ok on the stock MAF for a couple of years, as you said its directly measuring airflow rather than working out the correct VE values etc.

2018 will be mainly focused on chassis mods and getting things sorted 100% for supporting mods before upping the power.