Turbo wanna be 1zz couple of questions

[Nvy]

Hello guys,
Im new to the forum and im trying to calculate my costs and from where to source the parts.

Im aiming at 280-300 horses on the wheels. I dont want to go with a kit and would like to get GTX 2860 turbo and to have full spin around 3500 rpm.

So parts that id need:

Low compression pistons - i can order from  m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com m
Forged rods - I think somebody on the forum could offer some nice ones
ARP head studs -  m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com m
Uprated valve springs - Do i need these if im not going to raise the rpm limit? -  m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com m
Lighter flywheel - pros and cons - i think i dont need one and if i do somebody will make my stock one lighter
Uprated clutch - here im clueless - what clutches do the turbo guys use?  m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com m  Have some but the name seems dodgy. Gorilla??
AEM EMS4
I think id need to replace some bearings to some stronger ones if anybody can give a recommendation would be nice. - i dont remember where but some guy suggested better bearings for the rods???

Id need to rebuild the tranny - any suggestions on gears?
I think id need to replace some bearings to some stronger ones if anybody can give a recommendation would be nice.

Other than that i dont want to go with a kit coz i will be doing W2A and will get some 600 hp rated kit from frozenboost. But if i can find something like SP240 kit or something 2nd hand id snatch it and add the missing parts. I cant find turbo manifold in Europe, any ideas from where to get one?

So all written I would like to order these parts from Europe so i can lower the cost a bit and not pay vat and shipping on top of US ones. Any ideas where to look for them?

Every input is appreciated and also if i need to add something on the list just let me know. I was hoping to build the engine for like 750-800 pounds and to budget 2000 pounds for turbo setup. The work i will be doing with a friend of mine during the winter.

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Have a look here
 l viewtopic.php?f=7&t=60702 l

Useful resource for parts sourcing

[shnazzle]

Forged rods being about 600 of that 700-800 parts budget, and the 700 quid JUBU gears you'll need to handle that power makes me think you need to up your budget by about 2 grand.

That's a hell lot of power at the wheels to demand from the 2.
Rods, valves, cams, pistons, associated block work, bearings, bolts, turbo, manifold, exhaust, intake, ecu, clutch, uprated gears, sundries, gauges, bigger wheels/tyres, etc etc. I really can't see this sit below 4k but I'm very often wrong. Just from all the info on the forum.

[1979scotte]

Rods.
Have a word with TCB here on the forum.
They sorted me forged rods for less than 400.

[Nvy]

Forged rods being about 600 of that 700-800 parts budget, and the 700 quid JUBU gears you'll need to handle that power makes me think you need to up your budget by about 2 grand.

That's a hell lot of power at the wheels to demand from the 2.
Rods, valves, cams, pistons, associated block work, bearings, bolts, turbo, manifold, exhaust, intake, ecu, clutch, uprated gears, sundries, gauges, bigger wheels/tyres, etc etc. I really can't see this sit below 4k but I'm very often wrong. Just from all the info on the forum.

I can lower the power requirements for a start to 220-240 whp. Do i really need cams, valves and gears for that?

Wheels and tyres will be on another budget and i was also thinking to try and find 2nd hand low miles turbo. The rods that i saw on the forum were about 250 something and id need pistons, i sent an email to mahle but no answer. Ideally id like to do rods, pistons, bearings, head bolts and new gaskets but that will be about it for the engine. Injectors of course but they are cheap around here. I have a low miler shortblock engine ~ 90k kms.

Can you help me on the bearings, what to order the link can be from MonkeyWrench?
Also any source for clutches?

For the Ecu it will depend on my tuner or i can go full retard with Haltech and tune it myself with the proper gauges.

[m1tch]

Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.

For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.

Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.

[Nvy]

Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.

For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.

Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.

Thanks,
You are paying the import stuff anyways unless when the parts are manufactured in UK and i think i have found a way to have lower tax and if its the case i will let you know and i will be able to source some parts for you. I want to build the engine a bit coz i want to try and learn how to drift  s:D s:D  and yeah, i know this is not the best car for it but just to have the possibility.

[shnazzle]

Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.

This was my main reason for saying 600,but Scotte is right, TCB did an amazing offer not long ago for the 400 mark.
200whp is no problem on stock internals and bigger injectors. Even within the range of a piggyback which you could go full retard on  s:) s:)
At 200whp you might be pushing that 250ft/lb torque "limit" of the rods and gearbox a tiny bit, but some good tuning, boost control and right foot management should solve that.

The SP240 kit has 440cc injectors on  a piggyback ECU on fully stock block and it's stable as can be.
Leethesparky's car is running a bit heavier I think and isn't showing any signs of issues.

It's once you cross that 250ft/lb threshold where things start to become expensive, or risky anyway.

Sadly MWR really has the best gear. Toyota stock bearings are grand from what I've seen

[m1tch]

Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.

For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.

Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.

Thanks,
You are paying the import stuff anyways unless when the parts are manufactured in UK and i think i have found a way to have lower tax and if its the case i will let you know and i will be able to source some parts for you. I want to build the engine a bit coz i want to try and learn how to drift  s:D s:D  and yeah, i know this is not the best car for it but just to have the possibility.

You mention drifting, you need to find a different car to learn to drift in - the mid engined rear layout means that you get snap overstear meaning that its not that controllable as the 'pivot point' for the car is in the centre whereas front engined rear drive cars 'pivot' around the front and they are much more controllable. There is a drift bible by Keiichi Tsuchiya who drifts both rwd, awd and mid engined cars and shows the technique but its very different. Best to get yourself an MX5, 3 series or Volvo to learn in, the MR2 is good for the track rather than drift.

I am building my own engine at the moment - first time build for me but wanted to learn on my spare car, suggest you sit down and work out exactly what you are after, don't just go out and buy things right off the bat - unfortunately our MR2s don't have a huge aftermarket range and there are a few suspension items that are fixed as standard.

What is your budget? £10k?

[Nvy]

Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.

For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.

Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.

Thanks,
You are paying the import stuff anyways unless when the parts are manufactured in UK and i think i have found a way to have lower tax and if its the case i will let you know and i will be able to source some parts for you. I want to build the engine a bit coz i want to try and learn how to drift  s:D s:D  and yeah, i know this is not the best car for it but just to have the possibility.

You mention drifting, you need to find a different car to learn to drift in - the mid engined rear layout means that you get snap overstear meaning that its not that controllable as the 'pivot point' for the car is in the centre whereas front engined rear drive cars 'pivot' around the front and they are much more controllable. There is a drift bible by Keiichi Tsuchiya who drifts both rwd, awd and mid engined cars and shows the technique but its very different. Best to get yourself an "car with engine in wrong place", 3 series or Volvo to learn in, the MR2 is good for the track rather than drift.

I am building my own engine at the moment - first time build for me but wanted to learn on my spare car, suggest you sit down and work out exactly what you are after, don't just go out and buy things right off the bat - unfortunately our MR2s don't have a huge aftermarket range and there are a few suspension items that are fixed as standard.

What is your budget? £10k?

For a start power wise i would like to up to 3k-3.5k lets say. That includes engine and turbo setup, everything else would come after that. I already have TTE lowering + TTE exhaust that i would like to use with the turbo and i know that this will mean custom downpipe but it can be done. After that i will go for full under bracing, upgraded rollbars and hardtop. Some better aero and other stuff are in line too.

I want to sort the power first coz it feels a lot slower compared to my other car and im used to having a little more power on the go.

Long term plans will include fully built 2zz and twin scroll turbo together with 2nd res for methanol. There is a lotus built like this, with compound system thats at 680 hp(i dont know if wheel hp or crank).

What about clutch setups? Im down on the cast manifold from the thread that Essex2Visuvesi linked and im in some facebook groups and will look for piggyback and turbo from there. Cooling will be ordered from frozenboost and i will sort the piping myself.

P.S. I already went in a bent sideways, it was fun.  s:D s:D  Drifting will be just because the car can do it but will be mainly for track and some "canyon" drives. I got some rly nice roads to do so around here.

[shnazzle]

I'll be watching your build thread  s:) s:)  Sounds interesting for sure.

The TTE exhaust is known to be rather heavy and restrictive by the way. Although it does have the best sound  s:) s:)  It might struggle going over 180whp

[Nvy]

I'll be watching your build thread  s:) s:)  Sounds interesting for sure.

The TTE exhaust is known to be rather heavy and restrictive by the way. Although it does have the best sound  s:) s:)  It might struggle going over 180whp

Im still not that much into details like my other car but i will get up to speed  s:) s:)  The sound is indeed awesome bu if it needs going it will go on its way to ebay or to the private sales section  s:D s:D

I have fully modified civic 2.2 iCTDI with hybrid turbo and everything. Its at 460 nm and 210 hp(still needs some mapping) and its quite nice on the road and i can impress some beemers  s:D s:D  Also im well aware that im not going to reach 460 nm in the Mr2 but i dont need that much anyways. The civic is heavier by 350 kgs at least.

The plans for now are to collect all the parts that i need and to start ordering them after new year. Build will start around march and till the end of april should be completed. Mid May id like to be mapped and running  s:) s:)

[m1tch]

I have seen that Lotus, he changed back to a single turbo rather than twin charging it - the car was then in an accident so he rebuilt the car into something even more lightweight - look up 'The worlds fastest Lotus' on Youtube.

Here is the car now:

 m https://jalopnik.com/the-worlds-fastest ... 1662627938 m

I would also look at the overall weight of the car, its free to remove weight - I have removed about 65kg from my car and it still looks pretty much stock and has made a difference even at stock power (even with the engine on 175k miles).

If you are initially looking to keep the stock block I would go with:

Standalone ECU/mapping - Power FC/AEM EMS4/Link - I have a Power FC sitting in a box at the moment which I might decide to sell as I think I am going for the AEM - Budget for around £1.5k inc mapping

Wideband O2 sensor - so nothing melts or goes bang

Turbo manifold - T3 flange, cast manifold was around 100 euros (link in my thread although have yet to buy it), might be more if you want to go with a T25 flange.

Turbo - if going for a T25 flange turbos will be cheap, the T25 was on the 200sx S13 so lots of people upgrade from
 those.

Turbo downpipe - custom, I will be going to initially bolt it to my TTE exhaust as well to get it running but the exhaust system will need to be custom made.

Charge cooler

Injectors + pump - should be fine on the stock returnless system for the time being, upgrade injectors and fuel pump and get a boost referenced FPR - injectors can be scaled in the standalone ECU.

MAF - the stock MAF can max out, either run with an ECU that allows it to be eliminated or fit a Subaru MAF and rescale in the ECU.

A side note - I went with an MR2 as my project car as it was light weight to start out with, using an online calculator for power to weight and 1/4 mile times etc I found that running the car at 950kg and around 325bhp it would have the same power to weight as a R35 GTR Nismo as an example.

You also mention about wanting to upgrade to a 2zz engine - a built 1zz engine will have as much power as a built 2zz engine, just without the headache of doing an engine swap and then building up the 2zz etc. The 2zz engine is also heavier and has other issues such as the bores are MMC meaning you can't rebore it and there are limited options for pistons unless you spend out and go for dry sleeves unlike the 1zz.

[1979scotte]

Avoid TTE exhaust if you want good power from a turbo setup.
Aim for 250bhp flywheel for starters. It really is bloody quick.
I sold my turbo and bought a V6. Lovely torque.
Could be worth looking into a 2GR engine swap rather than a mental turbo kit.
They make 300 bhp at the fly stock and enough torque to pull a lorry.

Also consider a 2zz with a rotrex supercharger 350bhp at the fly on stock internals has been done.

[m1tch]

Avoid TTE exhaust if you want good power from a turbo setup.
Aim for 250bhp flywheel for starters. It really is bloody quick.
I sold my turbo and bought a V6. Lovely torque.
Could be worth looking into a 2GR engine swap rather than a mental turbo kit.
They make 300 bhp at the fly stock and enough torque to pull a lorry.

Also consider a 2zz with a rotrex supercharger 350bhp at the fly on stock internals has been done.

^^^^
Listen to this man  s:) s:)

I would also suggest checking out some of the supercharger options as it gives a more linear power delivery vs a turbo - might be a good option to simply bolt on a supercharger to start with and then go turbo for the higher bhp builds with a built engine.

[Nvy]

 m http://www.turbomotor.dk/contents/da/d28.html m

2nd top to bottom is just 53 euros and looks good  s:D s:D  From the pics doesnt look that bad, any idea if the tubo will be up or down mounted and should i just get it?

[m1tch]

Here is the T3 cast manifold I will probably be going with:

 m http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/ m

The turbo will be mounted below the manifold - not sure there is space to mount it upside down!

How much is postage on that one you found? I did find that manifold a while back but can't remember why I decided to not go for it - perhaps it cause I needed a larger T3 flange for my power goals.

[Nvy]

Here is the T3 cast manifold I will probably be going with:

 m http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/ m

The turbo will be mounted below the manifold - not sure there is space to mount it upside down!

How much is postage on that one you found? I did find that manifold a while back but can't remember why I decided to not go for it - perhaps it cause I needed a larger T3 flange for my power goals.

I will be going with this sweet manifold too, any idea what clutch to use?

And also do we know which box that was fitted with 2zz or 1zz was stronger so that we can use one? I had a look on the JUBU gears but 1.2k dollars for just the gears is a bit too much for my taste.

I have almost everything sorted in my head and i know what im going to do. Just need to sort tranny and clutch for up to 300 lbf and to retain a light pedal feel and no excessive tranny noise.

P.S. I would like to avoid upgrading to tranny from turbo mr 2 coz of the weight of the thing.

[shnazzle]

Here is the T3 cast manifold I will probably be going with:

 m http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/ m

The turbo will be mounted below the manifold - not sure there is space to mount it upside down!

How much is postage on that one you found? I did find that manifold a while back but can't remember why I decided to not go for it - perhaps it cause I needed a larger T3 flange for my power goals.

I will be going with this sweet manifold too, any idea what clutch to use?

And also do we know which box that was fitted with 2zz or 1zz was stronger so that we can use one? I had a look on the JUBU gears but 1.2k dollars for just the gears is a bit too much for my taste.

I have almost everything sorted in my head and i know what I'm going to do. Just need to sort tranny and clutch for up to 300 lbf and to retain a light pedal feel and no excessive tranny noise.

P.S. I would like to avoid upgrading to tranny from turbo mr 2 coz of the weight of the thing.

It's either e153 or jubu gears mate.
Or, as said, bring the torque in very slowly. Map it so it never exceeds 250ish ft/lb. Bit pointless.

Oh, and I think with 300ft/lb torque and equivalent hp, the extra weight of the e153 really won't hold you back too much  s:) s:)

[m1tch]

Stock box - 250 ft/lbs - Lotus guys break the stock box with the stock engine sometimes - Free/need a pile of spare gearboxes in the garage
JUBA/SSC gears - rated to 295 ft/lbs and apparently holds over 500bhp - around £1k per set of 3rd and 4th gear
E153 - rated for big BHP but are expensive, MWR does a kit for $5,600. box is heavy and doesn't have the best ratios
Quaife sequential - top end box at around $11k

I am going for the option to rebuild my gearbox with JUBA gears which should be slightly over rated for the power I am going for.

[Nvy]

The more i read on tuning and things for our sweet cars the more im getting confident in k20 swap and then turbo. Logic is that it has huge aftermarket support and things are way cheaper. Toyota has very limited choice and its pretty much 2 times more expensive than k20 stuff.

I have to read more on e153 but i saw some kit for 2+k on monkeywrench site and if you add that to the engine build one could do k20 swap for such cash or even k20/24 frank that will be around 300 hp and 200 lbf torque. On top of that with 7-8 psi k20/24 frank can go 400+ hp and k20 will go around 320-330 hp with no gearbox issues. More stuff to research  s:) s:)

[Nvy]

Stock box - 250 ft/lbs - Lotus guys break the stock box with the stock engine sometimes - Free/need a pile of spare gearboxes in the garage
JUBA/SSC gears - rated to 295 ft/lbs and apparently holds over 500bhp - around £1k per set of 3rd and 4th gear
E153 - rated for big BHP but are expensive, MWR does a kit for $5,600. box is heavy and doesn't have the best ratios
Quaife sequential - top end box at around $11k

I am going for the option to rebuild my gearbox with JUBA gears which should be slightly over rated for the power I am going for.

What kind of clutch are u going to use?

[shnazzle]

K20 is beautiful but factor in the cost of the custom axels. Also about 1 to 1.2k. There's your jubu gears.

Mattperformance was running his 400+ hp machine on those fine.

It's where you want to end up I guess.
If you're reaching for the stars, go k20/k24, swallow the upfront cost and know you're good for future super performance.

But know that even 250hp in the 2 is a handful.

[Nvy]

K20 is beautiful but factor in the cost of the custom axels. Also about 1 to 1.2k. There's your jubu gears.

Mattperformance was running his 400+ hp machine on those fine.

It's where you want to end up I guess.
If you're reaching for the stars, go k20/k24, swallow the upfront cost and know you're good for future super performance.

But know that even 250hp in the 2 is a handful.

Id like to keep it as much toyota as possible im not a fan of different brands mixed in a single car. For now more and more research  s:) s:) ) i think jubu will be cheaper if purchased from germany and im traveling to berlin quite often so it worths a try. Just need to set my eyes on a clutch now.

[m1tch]

I think most usually go with an ACT clutch and lighter flywheel, see below for the MWR clutches - they have the torque ratings as well, JUBA gearsets are rated to 295 ft/lbs so bear that in mind with the clutch.

 m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... onverters/ m

Basically you are looking for a sprung puck clutch rather than organic if you are wanting to go for higher power but still drive it on the street so for the ACT clutches probably a HDG6 or XTG6.

Pressure Plates:
Heavy Duty – HD
– Clamps load increase of 20% to 50%
– Pedal feels stock to moderate
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Xtreme – XT
– Clamps load increase of 50% to 120%
– Pedal feels moderate to stiff
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race

Discs:
Performance – SS
– Recommended for Street and Race
– Smooth engagement
– Easiest on transmission
– Longest lasting compound for street
– Most popular choice
Spring Centered (4 Pad) – G4
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G6 for high rpm shifting
Spring Centered (6 Pad) – G6
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G4 for handling extreme heat and punishment
Solid Hub (4 Pad) – R4
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Fastest shifts, low inertia
– Good durability but shortened spline life
– Very harsh engagement, chatter
Solid Hub (6 Pad) – R6
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Faster shifts, reduced inertia
– Very good durability but shortened spline life
– Absorbs more heat than 4 pad
– Harsh engagement, chatter