Whifbits turbo or Black label?

[dan944]

Obx sump may not be necessary.
Much cheaper to just have a bung welded into your existing sump. if you want to save money that is.

Obx is better obviously but certainly not necessary.

If you can get your hands on a TTE replica intercooler they're ideally placed for the size. Otherwise you end up with this awkward cramming on an intercooler in the back somewhere.
I'd opt for cheap eBay chargecooler piped to a small Fiat radiator before I went down that route.

Have you considered injectors? Depending on how much power you want,you really ought to consider at the very least some 2zz injectors. Anything over 200 and you're going to be looking at the lotus 440cc or modified Astra VXR with some Bosch plugs to wire in.

If you want to keep stock injectors, I'd aim for a modified return fuel rail and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to ensure your injectors can work at max capacity through boost. Maybe slightly higher pressure as well.

Wideband really is a good idea to monitor your fueling alongside boost. It'll also give your piggyback the capability to adjust on AFR.

If you're going standalone,you'll need an IAT sensor as well as (if I recall) the ECUMaster doesn't bother with a MAF-based fueling strategy. So we'll need an IAT to get the temps. (Need to address this in the group buy...)

Hmm..what else... Crank vent. One way valves. You do not want boost in your head.
New pcv to make sure as well

OBX was (I feel) probably a wise choice and makes it easier for plumbing etc, also a higher capacity?

Intercooler, was planning on measuring up and seeing what I can cram in that space after fitting the rest. I'll be crying and taking advice closer to the time 

I forgot about injectors until last night whilst watching Leethesparky's videos on youtube,  i'll be opting for the Astra VXR ones for now and swap the plugs.

I'll look into a wideband and add that to the list, any recommends? I'll research what it does as otherwise ill just be looking at a dial for no reason.

IAT sensor?  guessing its a MAF replacement? any recommends? also where does this go? I understand why MAF goes between BOV and throttle body but if this only deals with temp is it going pre BOV?

For once I have some idea of what's going on, happy with most of the vac lines, is a vac block necessary? non return between Throttle body and PCV accounted for as well as crank breather and blocking the other end off (non return again?) most of this was again for the youtube channel.

Also will be using powerflow for the exhaust as they are only 20 mins away instead of the hour drive to longlife.

Many many thanks guys, this help is much appreciated.  I'm just waiting for a payment to drop in hopefully at the end of this month and then ill start buying.  Manifold from Belgium first,  I may be wrong but does this one fit all the gt25 series?

http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/

[shnazzle]

Obx sump may not be necessary.
Much cheaper to just have a bung welded into your existing sump. if you want to save money that is.

Obx is better obviously but certainly not necessary.

If you can get your hands on a TTE replica intercooler they're ideally placed for the size. Otherwise you end up with this awkward cramming on an intercooler in the back somewhere.
I'd opt for cheap eBay chargecooler piped to a small Fiat radiator before I went down that route.

Have you considered injectors? Depending on how much power you want,you really ought to consider at the very least some 2zz injectors. Anything over 200 and you're going to be looking at the lotus 440cc or modified Astra VXR with some Bosch plugs to wire in.

If you want to keep stock injectors, I'd aim for a modified return fuel rail and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to ensure your injectors can work at max capacity through boost. Maybe slightly higher pressure as well.

Wideband really is a good idea to monitor your fueling alongside boost. It'll also give your piggyback the capability to adjust on AFR.

If you're going standalone,you'll need an IAT sensor as well as (if I recall) the ECUMaster doesn't bother with a MAF-based fueling strategy. So we'll need an IAT to get the temps. (Need to address this in the group buy...)

Hmm..what else... Crank vent. One way valves. You do not want boost in your head.
New pcv to make sure as well

OBX was (I feel) probably a wise choice and makes it easier for plumbing etc, also a higher capacity?

Intercooler, was planning on measuring up and seeing what I can cram in that space after fitting the rest. I'll be crying and taking advice closer to the time 

I forgot about injectors until last night whilst watching Leethesparky's videos on youtube,  i'll be opting for the Astra VXR ones for now and swap the plugs.

I'll look into a wideband and add that to the list, any recommends? I'll research what it does as otherwise ill just be looking at a dial for no reason.

IAT sensor?  guessing its a MAF replacement? any recommends? also where does this go? I understand why MAF goes between BOV and throttle body but if this only deals with temp is it going pre BOV?

For once I have some idea of what's going on, happy with most of the vac lines, is a vac block necessary? non return between Throttle body and PCV accounted for as well as crank breather and blocking the other end off (non return again?) most of this was again for the youtube channel.

Many many thanks guys, this help is much appreciated.  I'm just waiting for a payment to drop in hopefully at the end of this month and then ill start buying.  Manifold from Belgium first,  I may be wrong but does this one fit all the gt25 series?

http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/

Nope manifold won't fit. You need a T25 flange,the manifold is T3. You can get an adapter and as you're going from a bigger flange on the mani to a smaller one on the turbo,it will have no negative effect. Just space,which may make things difficult but not impossible.

Wideband isn't required but just allows the car to maintain target AFRs depending on conditions. So you don't even need the gauge really.

IAT- Intake Air Temp. This is currently integrated into the MAF. With a turbo,your intake temps are going to be very different before and after the turbo,so the MAF temp sensor is in the wrong place. You'll find it runs very different in cold wet Vs warm dry weather.

As this standalone does away with the MAF and replaces it with MAP, you need to measure IAT after the intercooler to let the ECU adjust for air temp. Need? No. Is it smart?yes!

Bov is a simple piece of equipment and can sit wherever you want (-ish) on the MAP set up as you're no longer measuring airflow with the MAF. So the unmetered air issue is gone.

[1979scotte]

Manifold is from Bulgaria mate.
Check stock.
It's a T3 which means you will need an adaptor for the smaller T25 type turbos.
There was a place in Denmark that did them.
Otherwise it's import from the states.

[dan944]

so..

HA!!! idiot!!  I saw Bg and assumed Belgium without even thinking!!
http://www.turbomotor.dk/contents/da/d28.html
^^this manifold should work then.  Close on price as well.

I'll probably get a wideband, sounds important. Its on the list.

Are MAP sensor and IAT universal? seen AEM versions of both, MAP even says for use with ECUmaster?

[1979scotte]

That's the one.

[dan944]

Thanks you  :notworthy:

[1979scotte]

With the sensors get the ones specific to your ECU choice.
They may just be generic but then you are sure there will be no compatibility issues.
If you get on the ECUMASTER group buy they will supply the afr sensor for 105 I think with wiring. It doesn't require a controller because the ECU is double clever and does it all it's self.
IAT may be unnecessary it may be able to use the one built into the MAF pretty cheap anyway.
25 for Bosch air temp sensor
59 for boost control solenoid

RRR shop.co.uk

[shnazzle]

With the sensors get the ones specific to your ECU choice.
They may just be generic but then you are sure there will be no compatibility issues.
If you get on the ECUMASTER group buy they will supply the afr sensor for 105 I think with wiring. It doesn't require a controller because the ECU is double clever and does it all it's self.
IAT may be unnecessary it may be able to use the one built into the MAF pretty cheap anyway.
25 for Bosch air temp sensor
59 for boost control solenoid

RRR shop.co.uk

They'd have to reposition the MAF post-turbo. Not impossible but a bit of a faff. Easier to just put a bung in the pipes and a new sensor. Cheap as chips.
RA charged 16 quid to fit the bung for the IAT.

[loadswine]

Some excellent advice and experience being offered.  I can't remember seeing anything about an uprated clutch. Some of the TTE kits ran on a stock clutch and were okay, but any appreciable torque being produced, is likely to overwhelm a stock clutch. I've had 4 different turbos and they all had uprated clutches.  My Haas turbo seemed fine until I sorted a poorly placed air intake, then the torque climbed and the clutch cried 'no more', so had to replace that.

[1979scotte]

Spot on.
Uprated clutch needed if Dan wants 200 @ the wheels.
That will be similar to the Sp240 and they always came with a helix auto sport clutch.

[dan944]

With the sensors get the ones specific to your ECU choice.
They may just be generic but then you are sure there will be no compatibility issues.
If you get on the ECUMASTER group buy they will supply the afr sensor for 105 I think with wiring. It doesn't require a controller because the ECU is double clever and does it all it's self.
IAT may be unnecessary it may be able to use the one built into the MAF pretty cheap anyway.
25 for Bosch air temp sensor
59 for boost control solenoid

RRR shop.co.uk

This is all good news for me as I can speak to them directly during the build phase and ask them exactly where each component should go.  That means I can build with everything in the correct place to start with and just leave them bunged up until they get their hands on it.

^^is this true?


Less good news about the clutch    Was expecting the clutch to be ok at those levels. I have seen an exedy paddle clutch set that I wanted to fit but was probably going to do that before next power increase.
Clutch is probably a bit much for me to do atm so would probably look at paying someone and supplying them with the parts.  Hence why I didn't want to do it yet.

I see 2 options;
run a very low boost for a while,
or,
stop being stingy and get the clutch done.

so whats the cheapest way I can get a clutch done 

[dan944]

what year VXR injectors will i need guys? cant seem to find it on the forum   

[s12vea]

Some excellent advice and experience being offered.  I can't remember seeing anything about an uprated clutch. Some of the TTE kits ran on a stock clutch and were okay, but any appreciable torque being produced, is likely to overwhelm a stock clutch. I've had 4 different turbos and they all had uprated clutches.  My Haas turbo seemed fine until I sorted a poorly placed air intake, then the torque climbed and the clutch cried 'no more', so had to replace that.

I maybe reverting back to a standard clutch on my TTE turbo as my uprated paddle clutch is bit over the top for my power levels.
My previous TTE turbo ran standard clutch no problem, but bhp / torque over 200 would need uprated clutch

I can confirm current clutch pricing - feb 2018

Luk / Exedy standard clutch around £75 delivered
Standard Toyota £220 delivered
Exedy stage 1 £279 delivered
Helix £379 delivered

All plus fitting

[mikek]

If you add the ecumaster bluetooth adapter you can download the dash up which will let you monitor all the sensors without the need for additional gauges. This includes afr, oil temp/pressure, etc etc

[shnazzle]

If you add the ecumaster bluetooth adapter you can download the dash up which will let you monitor all the sensors without the need for additional gauges. This includes afr, oil temp/pressure, etc etc

I love that option. And from videos I've seen,it's lightning quick as well. No delays. So you can almost use it as a dash

[mikek]

If you add the ecumaster bluetooth adapter you can download the dash up which will let you monitor all the sensors without the need for additional gauges. This includes afr, oil temp/pressure, etc etc

I love that option. And from videos I've seen,it's lightning quick as well. No delays. So you can almost use it as a dash

It's on my list

[1979scotte]

If the Bluetooth and App work well it's a great tool.
Something that I could never get to work with my PLX multi gauge.

[dan944]

Some excellent advice and experience being offered.  I can't remember seeing anything about an uprated clutch. Some of the TTE kits ran on a stock clutch and were okay, but any appreciable torque being produced, is likely to overwhelm a stock clutch. I've had 4 different turbos and they all had uprated clutches.  My Haas turbo seemed fine until I sorted a poorly placed air intake, then the torque climbed and the clutch cried 'no more', so had to replace that.

I maybe reverting back to a standard clutch on my TTE turbo as my uprated paddle clutch is bit over the top for my power levels.
My previous TTE turbo ran standard clutch no problem, but bhp / torque over 200 would need uprated clutch

I can confirm current clutch pricing - feb 2018

Luk / Exedy standard clutch around £75 delivered
Standard Toyota £220 delivered
Exedy stage 1 £279 delivered
Helix £379 delivered

All plus fitting

does anyone someone who'll fit a stage 1 exedy for a good price?