Engine warning light, whining sound and temp off the gauge

househead · July 31, 2019, 12:57

Had my car in with local garage yesterday. They were checking my slider pins. No charge for the work they did as it relates potentially to some previous work. Drove it home down the road, no issues.

Today the car is making a whining sound, the engine warning light is on and the temperature gauge is off the scale. There is also evidence of steam around the coolant fill tank.

I guess this could be many things but where do I start? They've promised to look at it tomorrow (5secs after saying they're "fully booked until Monday").

And whilst it's hot right now, it's in full on limp mode and I've had to dump it around the corner from home.

Quite worried tbh.

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 13:13

Sounds like you've lost coolant and seriously overheated it. Not good.

Probably a leaky radiator (most usually the culprit for loss of coolant).

It's never a good idea to let an ally engine get that hot.

For future reference, if you ever see the temperature climbing above normal, pull over,switch off and investigate. Never let it get it 'off the scale'.

Hopefully, the whine will go away when it's cool and topped up. If it persists, I'd be worried too.

househead · July 31, 2019, 13:17

This happened in such a short drive. Low speeds, 5mins (less than a mile) down the road and back. Thought the weird sound was the brakes they'd been fiddling with.

Then I saw the temp level. Wow. It was well over the max when I noticed but was moving downward, but then begun to climb again. That's when I pulled over somewhere safe. Will let it cool down and then top up with some de-ionised water and see if it starts and works enough to get it back on the drive.

hope it's not seriously damaged

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 13:27

Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 13:17This happened in such a short drive. Low speeds, 5mins (less than a mile) down the road and back. Thought the weird sound was the brakes they'd been fiddling with.

Then I saw the temp level. Wow. It was well over the max when I noticed but was moving downward, but then begun to climb again. That's when I pulled over somewhere safe. Will let it cool down and then top up with some de-ionised water and see if it starts and works enough to get it back on the drive.

hope it's not seriously damaged

Any old water will do at this point. It looks like the head was uncovered by coolant, which means you're missing quite a lot. You'll be starting again with coolant for the entire system, if the radiator is the root problem, so just make sure it's well filled.

Top it up, run the engine, top it up again, if needed.

househead · July 31, 2019, 13:32

Thanks @Carolyn I'll update here how that goes.

If I have such a massive leak I'm not sure how this occurred so quickly. Only topped up the coolant once since having it and I'm talking like 100ml worth.

How likely is it some damage has been caused (inadvertently) by working on my brakes?

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 13:38

It's an old car. Things break. Radiators spring leaks... poopoo happens!!

These cars have to be looked after like classics, because they are 15-20 years old, there's always going to be stuff getting to its sell-by-date!

The leak doesn't have to be 'massive', just steady. One day, you drive it and the coolant level has gone from low to critical.

Just about all our cars have had the radiator replaced, or will be having it replaced very soon.

I've done both of mine.

Almost certainly utterly unrelated to the brake work.

Oh - Do you have a code reader? better not to clear the warning light until the code has been read.

Replacing the rad is easy, bleeding and filling the cooling system, less so... but I can advise on that.

househead · July 31, 2019, 13:58

I do have an ODB reader but not sure if it supports this car, it's an obdeleven Bluetooth one I got for my Golf.

Definitely a rad leak, nice pool under the front end...

Pic ... https://ibb.co/SBLwqyQ

Just waiting for it to cool down for a top up. Made it to about 30% of gauge. Engine starts, just tested that and turned it off straight away.

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 14:01

It just occurred to me that the 'whine' could be the result of a seized water pump...which would cause rapid overheating too. Or a problem with the belt.

(This is what you get for guessing at distance!)

Before you start the car, remove the plastic canister on the right. (two little hoses and slide it up in its bracket - it will come out), Get a flashlight, start the engine, and look at the rotation of the auxiliary belt. Make sure it's turning all the pulleys.

Just read your last post - never mind....

Try your OBD reader, you might be pleasantly surprised.

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 14:03

You've probably got away with it.

househead · July 31, 2019, 14:11

I know the water pump has been replaced reasonably recently (in last 2-3 years) as I have a receipt for it from the previous owner. That doesn't of course mean that it hasn't failed!

Will crack out the reader and give that a try to see if it reads the codes. At home now smoking and drinking tea nervously before I go back when it's fully cooled down

StuC · July 31, 2019, 14:36

+1 on the radiator being the primary culprit. Both our cars have had these go. Really common failure.
It is also surprising just how quickly the temperature will rise with substandard levels in it.

househead · July 31, 2019, 15:07

Come to think of it ... I was out in it the other day and was surprised how quickly it was upto (normal) temp. Potentially problem had already begun at that point.

Found a cheap radiator on ebay...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-RADIATOR-TOYOTA-MR2-W3-1999-TO-2007-1-8-PETROL-ROADSTER/282665232522?fits=Model%3AMR+2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41d029288a:g:BVAAAOSw5E1cYq0x

Is that suitable? Most of the others listed seem to be a little more expensive. Was not expecting it to be this cheap although @1979scotte told me the rad was cheap but the coolant isn't!

Joesson · July 31, 2019, 15:10

The "evidence" on the road is on the nearside front, which is where the 2's radiator typically leaks from.
My replacement radiator also blew out a plug of some sort on that side as well, and that was very sudden, so my money is on the rad.

househead · July 31, 2019, 15:23

Managed to get it back on my drive. Waited till temp was all the way down, topped up with water, ran it on idle for a few mins, topped up some more and drove it home round the corner 100m or so at most minimal revs, almost stalling it as I reversed it in. Temp was up at the "normal" point as I switched it off. Engine sounds fine so hopefully have got away with it.

Call the midlife! · July 31, 2019, 15:26

Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 15:07Come to think of it ... I was out in it the other day and was surprised how quickly it was upto (normal) temp. Potentially problem had already begun at that point.

Found a cheap radiator on ebay...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-RADIATOR-TOYOTA-MR2-W3-1999-TO-2007-1-8-PETROL-ROADSTER/282665232522?fits=Model%3AMR+2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41d029288a:g:BVAAAOSw5E1cYq0x

Is that suitable? Most of the others listed seem to be a little more expensive. Was not expecting it to be this cheap although @1979scotte told me the rad was cheap but the coolant isn't!

Can't follow the link but if it's Coolparts then that's the one.

househead · July 31, 2019, 15:45

Quote from: Call the midlife! on July 31, 2019, 15:26Can't follow the link but if it's Coolparts then that's the one.

Yep coolpartsuk ... I'll get the bugger ordered. Thanks mate!

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 16:07

There have been issues with the O rings on the drain and bleed plugs on these. No big deal, I'll send you some slightly fatter ones....(if I've still got some) put some vaseline on them when you screw the plugs in - stops them tearing.

househead · July 31, 2019, 16:23

Thanks @Carolyn and all of you!

I'm so pleased with how helpful everyone is here as always that I think a tenner donation to the club is in order!

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 16:36

I'm out of those O rings..

You want 6mm x 2mm Nitrile.

househead · July 31, 2019, 16:38

Quote from: Carolyn on July 31, 2019, 16:36I'm out of those O rings..
You want 6mm x 2mm Nitrile.

Righty O (geddit), I'll get some on order with the rad.

@1979scotte has kindly offered to have a lot at it with me too as I gather he doesn't live too far away.

1979scotte · July 31, 2019, 16:40

Shopping list

Cool Parts rad
Coolant 10L? 15L? I like premix. Eurocarparts do 5L for £15
Maybe some jubilee clips the hose clamps can go anything else?

@Carolyn
@Joesson
@househead
@Call the midlife!

1979scotte · July 31, 2019, 16:43

We don't have a radiator replacement how to which surprised me.
Doesn't everyone do it eventually?

We do have a coolant replacement guide

https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=20138.0

househead · July 31, 2019, 16:44

I have jubilee clips (somewhere) left over from securing the gas pipe on my BBQ, I'm guessing they'll do the job.

househead · July 31, 2019, 16:52

Coolant-wise, will this do?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553

£33 for 20l (mixed) and a further 20% off if ordered before tomo. Or do I want the red stuff?

Carolyn · July 31, 2019, 16:54

Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 16:52Coolant-wise, will this do?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553

£33 for 20l (mixed) and a further 20% off if ordered before tomo. Or do I want the red stuff?

The red stuff. I buy 5 ltrs of pure stuff and dilute.