'01 Silver - The daily commute smile machine! (Turbo build)

Started by jvanzyl, August 10, 2016, 15:05

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jvanzyl

Started to re-assemble car so I can get some vibrations(road) through it and resolve this air lock business. (Refilled it and now I'm getting over heating as well as cold air so I've made it worse!)





I must say I'm happy with how the exhaust has worked out.. subtle.





Joesson

Did you have all drain points open when you started to fill, slowly, and close each as it showed coolant had reached that point?

Carolyn

Have you tried taking the turbo out of the cooling system?
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
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jvanzyl

Quote from: Joesson on April 19, 2024, 14:08Did you have all drain points open when you started to fill, slowly, and close each as it showed coolant had reached that point?
Yup car was exactly level during this process.

Quote from: Carolyn on April 19, 2024, 14:21Have you tried taking the turbo out of the cooling system?


I did that the first time round and it had coolant in the tubes, a bit reluctant to do it again as it involves cutting the lines - the barbs are insanely good!

I finished putting the car back together and took it up and down my little hill, stopping back in the garage each time to check coolant level and had the heater on full the whole time. No success in that area yet. However long time readers will know that this shakedown drive was SIGNIFICANTLY more successful than a previous one!

Shakedown also helped produce more leaks which was helpful.


Was keeping an eye on AFR and boost levels. I've got the boost controller to keep it at 0 boost, and from what I can see my gentle driving up and down went from -9.9 to maybe -5 at most.

AFR seemed ok.. I'm getting leaning out error codes occasionally when the car is left to idle. I think this is a product of the Emanage.

Anyway! The car is still going! In calling it a win for tonight.













jvanzyl

Front bumper and rear mid tray off.

And @Alex Knight you'll be pleased to know I've ordered some mikalor clamps for the oil drain and charge cooler radiator.

Cleaned the maf and had a look at the o rings on it to see if I can get it a fraction lower in the chamber.

Contemplating draining again, moving the car to the edge of the drive so the rear is facing up hill and I've got a nice slope to try and refill on. And yes @Carolyn  I'm slowly getting to the point of disconnecting the turbo coolant lines...

Carolyn

Just do it.  You're putting off the inevitable.  Remember when I swore at you about an engine mount???
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

jvanzyl

Quote from: Carolyn on April 20, 2024, 15:17Just do it.  You're putting off the inevitable.  Remember when I swore at you about an engine mount???

Right- I connected the coolant from next to the block back to the T junction on the way back to the coolant bottle... and WE HAVE HOT AIR! Intermittently at least!  :)

I'm basically watching bubbles rise during different rev cycles and getting hot air. So I figure about 10L more petrol and it'll be done! 

I do need to make good and sure that the turbo coolant feed is not directional.. there's no indication or guidance in the paperwork that it is.. anyone know?

thetyrant

Turbo coolant flow is not directional just make sure there is coolant flow both through turbo core and the pipes to/from it, maybe its blocked up! or there was big airlock in there.

Have you connected it exactly as the TTE instructions ? do you have a picture of how you had it ?


 Once you get system bled without it you (after checking turbo has got flow) connect it back in but do the coolant line from engine to turbo first and let it push coolant through, when coolant comes out the turbo exit pipe connect that back to main system, shouldnt take much bleeding after that, on mine once i never had to bleed it after connecting turbo in must of burped itself, but 2nd time i did need to.

 
Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

jvanzyl

Quote from: thetyrant on April 23, 2024, 10:56Turbo coolant flow is not directional just make sure there is coolant flow both through turbo core and the pipes to/from it, maybe its blocked up! or there was big airlock in there.

Have you connected it exactly as the TTE instructions ? do you have a picture of how you had it ?


 Once you get system bled without it you (after checking turbo has got flow) connect it back in but do the coolant line from engine to turbo first and let it push coolant through, when coolant comes out the turbo exit pipe connect that back to main system, shouldnt take much bleeding after that, on mine once i never had to bleed it after connecting turbo in must of burped itself, but 2nd time i did need to.

 

Excellent guidance thank you!

Yes I connected it exactly as per TTE guidance. I'm going to try and push liquid though today to make sure it can flow properly, it's possible that this is an area where there is some sort of blockage..

Thank you again @Carolyn & @thetyrant !

jvanzyl

Sooooo...

I tested the turbo coolant lines, basically poured coolant down one end and managed to get stuff out the other.

I HAD nice heat coming out from the heaters... I then took off the coolant by the engine and attached one end of the turbo. Nothing came out after quite a bit of waiting... laid it on the side and revved the engine, still nothing! Tried using the other pipe instead, and same story... and back to cold air in the heater.

Something might be wrong with my coolant lines, looks like I'll need to take them off again... not sure really!

Carolyn

I think you need to prime the turbo and its hoses with coolant, making sure they are full.  Then connect it into the rest of the system.

Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

jvanzyl

Quote from: Carolyn on April 23, 2024, 13:41I think you need to prime the turbo and its hoses with coolant, making sure they are full.  Then connect it into the rest of the system.



I will try that. I meant to when i just tried again, but for whatever reason didn't... must admit I've had enough of coolant for a loooong time..

jvanzyl

More fuel in.
Primed the turbo and attached it.

No dice.

Tomorrow I'll remove the turbo again and get hot air and then try again.


jvanzyl

Took off turbo coolant leads and primed them and kept them at the ready.
Connected normal coolant line and ran car till heat came out of vents.
Whilst car running, disconnected coolant line and connected turbo lines (coolant everywhere but happy with connection). No heat from vents at all.

Started doing 2.5k RPM for sustained periods and trying bleed valves and after about 10-15 mins SUCCESS!!! it's not done fully yet, heat definitely stronger when revving but it's heat I never had before with the turbo's connected! Ran out of time but super hopeful!





Next time will be more heat and adding the shielding to the charge pipes.

jvanzyl

Some more goodies arrived- 1 way valve for oil catch cab system and some ridiculous hose clamps that will hopefully resolve oil drain and charge leaks!


tets

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 24, 2024, 14:44Some more goodies arrived- 1 way valve for oil catch cab system and some ridiculous hose clamps that will hopefully resolve oil drain and charge leaks!



I have very similar clamps for my turbo pipes and got to say, they are very very good!!

jvanzyl

Quote from: tets on April 24, 2024, 18:26I have very similar clamps for my turbo pipes and got to say, they are very very good!!

I'm very tempted to get more for my turbo pipes now.. just not tempted by the price of them.. just have standard hose clamps on at the moment..

I fitted these clamps and the one way valve this evening:







Joesson

IIRC at one time Jubilee/ worm drive type clips typically had a straight screwdriver slot.
I much  prefer to use a 1/4 inch small ratchet wrench and socket on the hex head than  the screwdriver alternative.

jvanzyl

Quote from: Joesson on April 24, 2024, 20:50IIRC at one time Jubilee/ worm drive type clips typically had a straight screwdriver slot.
I much  prefer to use a 1/4 inch small ratchet wrench and socket on the hex head than  the screwdriver alternative.

Yeah that's what I've been using for them- 5.5 or 6mm ratchet.
Unfortunately the ones I ordered for the oil drain are not tight enough and still leak :(

Started trying to tidy up the wiring inside whilst continuing to burp the car (one foot revving whilst hands are fiddling with centre console..) it's certainly won't be pretty but fit the purpose of shakedown and getting it ready for mapping it'll do.


jvanzyl

Added the pipework protection below:





whilst doing that I was running the car up to temp and continuing the burping... discovered that despite closing off the radiator valve it was still somehow open!
Opened it up to discover that the brand new radiators valve o-ring to have broken already.. replaced it and it now works which is nice, I was a bit worried that it could have been a thread stripping or something.



Next time will be further interior tidying, conduit completion underneath and more burping.

Joesson

@jvanzyl
That O-ring has been mentioned in dispatches as being wrong size and / or poor quality.

Here are links to @Bossworld  thread

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=756001

And my own earlier thread

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=726718

A recurring theme and another, as yet, unresolved issue .

Call the midlife!

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 25, 2024, 14:30Added the pipework protection below:





whilst doing that I was running the car up to temp and continuing the burping... discovered that despite closing off the radiator valve it was still somehow open!
Opened it up to discover that the brand new radiators valve o-ring to have broken already.. replaced it and it now works which is nice, I was a bit worried that it could have been a thread stripping or something.



Next time will be further interior tidying, conduit completion underneath and more burping.

I know you're going to pull those pipes through more to take up all the slack and then cable tie them to the existing pipework. Aren't you?😃
60% of the time it works everytime...

inigopete

As an aside, what are those jacks / lifts? I need to upgrade from my old, small, trolley jack.

jvanzyl

Quote from: Joesson on April 25, 2024, 14:56@jvanzyl
That O-ring has been mentioned in dispatches as being wrong size and / or poor quality.

Here are links to @Bossworld  thread

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=756001

And my own earlier thread

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=726718

A recurring theme and another, as yet, unresolved issue .


Interesting! I'd not read those posts!

Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 25, 2024, 16:54I know you're going to pull those pipes through more to take up all the slack and then cable tie them to the existing pipework. Aren't you?😃
Yes yes... 😁

Quote from: inigopete on April 28, 2024, 06:30As an aside, what are those jacks / lifts? I need to upgrade from my old, small, trolley jack.

These are quickjacks I got them from Costco, they're specced to be able to lift my campervan.  (7000TL with extenders)





Obviously not as fast/cheap as a single stand, but for my purposes they're ideal.

jvanzyl

Started fitting the new mikalor clamps to the turbo side and added smaller clamps to the oil drain. We're about to test the returns policy of the place I bought them from...






 ;D
Managed to shred part of the silicone tubing in an effort to slide clamps on THAT WERE JUST 1mm TOO SMALL! So made another section, and have ordered 3 more of the next size up.. in total I have 5 clamps to return now I think. No idea if the returns policy covers attempted fitting..

During these efforts I managed to break off one of the grounding point plugs  :( but I think I've rescued it! ;D









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