Right some of you may rember i posted this ages ago on the old forum but a few people may find this interesting so here's what you need to up grade the front speaker.
A good set of 6.5" compents with a 1" tweeter (silk dome)
12mm MDF board
A few long screws and around 3-4mm thick
Sound deadening (dynomat or brown bread)
Speaker wire 12 awg
crimpers and bullet and sockets
Soldering iron
and patents!
First you need to make a spacer like in the pciture made from 12 mm MDF
(http://www.kris-clark.com/mr2/busta/Dscf0010.jpg)
you can make these by tracing round the outline of the old mounting (plastic one) and making the opening a bit bigger so that the chassis of teh speaker fit's in. Or i can make them for you and send them throguht the post as i have a master to copy from. Contact me for spacers.
To show how the speaker will fit in car picture below shows how the spacer moves the speaker away from the glass that retracts in the door.
(http://www.kris-clark.com/mr2/busta/Dscf0009.jpg)
See how far the speaker is set away from the spacer
Next all components sets will come with a Cross over, some sets come with an active cross over witch means that a power suply is needed but most dont, I mounted the cross overs in the doors as then you only have to run 1 set of speaker wire throguth the door gromet. Heres the postion i mounted mine in you have to take a large peice of foam out but this is only for sound deadening and will be made redundant when the dynomat is layed:
(http://www.kris-clark.com/mr2/busta/Dscf0007.jpg)
Running speaker wire throught the gromet in the door is the hardest thing in this set up, The gromet are only desgined to take small wires not thick 12awg speaker wire so i would suggest getting a coat hanger or draw wire and taping the end of the speaker wire to this and then sparying WD40 on the end so that it will slide throgh easyier. Note i have done 10 2's now and it takes me about 30 mins to pull one set of speaker wires though so it takes time.
Next is fitting the tweeter this involes removing the old tweeters and surrounding which leaves a nice hole for the new tweeter to fit. The hole will need trimming so that the bigger tweeter will fit but dont be scared to trim the pannel the old tweeter bracket will still fit so everyhting looks the same when you sell it ( s:shock: :shock: s:shock: ) if you do that is.
(http://www.kris-clark.com/mr2/busta/Dscf0008.jpg)
The next photo shows how the speaker should look once mounted from top so that you can see that it's tight to the car and how the spacer looks in place
(http://www.kris-clark.com/mr2/busta/Dscf0005.jpg)
from top
(http://www.kris-clark.com/mr2/busta/Dscf0006.jpg)
Next you need to wire up the speaker this is simple as you have 1 set of wire's from the headunit or amp, this then gose to the cross over as input. then you have to outputs one for Mid bass the other for trebble, the treeble gose to the tweeter + and - right way round and mid bass gose to the 6.5" mid range + and - right way round.
The final thing is to make sure your getting sound from the spaker by turing the headunit on. You may have some adjust ments in the crossovers so the sound is to your liking but setting a system up take around 10 mins if you have an amp. If your using an amp make sure all the gains are turined down to 0 so you have no sound and then once's tunred on turn the gains up so that the volume corresponse with the volume on the headunit.
Wanring: dont turn the speaker full blast for the 1st week or so let them bed in and them slowly relase the power throght them other wise you will blow them or damage the magnets
The last ting if you want to if sound deaden the car pannel so it keeps the bass in and stop things rattleing. picture show below how it's done
(http://www.kris-clark.com/mr2/busta/Dscf0011.jpg)
I think thast about it any more questions just ask on this thread
cheers and i hope this is helpfull to some peoeple s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Thanks Buster, that's reet helpful is that. The only thing left that I want to do to my car is upgrade the speakers, now I can see how it's done, i might attempt it, unless someone feels like a little job at JAE... s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Think Buster is going to be busy at JAE this year! actually, i think everyone will be helping fit something to everyone elses car anyway! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Moved to the new Audio Forum.
YAY i got a audio bit on teh forum WHOO!
yeah Slacey if you want a hand fitting the speaker i shall be there! Nothing much to it but i will bring with me some mounting brackets for teh speaker made from MDF saves bringing all the jigsaw and stuff !
Just out of interest how many people would like the mounting brackets (spacers) just so i know how many to bring s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
That would be great Buster, count me in for some brackets... what would your recommendation be for speakers then? I know you mentioned some in another thread, but I don't want to spend a fortune - also, would you be able to supply the bits I need (paid for in advance, obviously!)?
I would recomend the Focals 165a they are around £130
all the other bits work out at £40 i would guess, If you pop down to halford you can pick them up but if you dont know what your looking for then i can get it for ya s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Are the Focal 165's replacements for the main speaker? What about the smaller ones?
Quote from: "Comer"Are the Focal 165's replacements for the main speaker? What about the smaller ones?
They are a compent set so they have 4 speakers in total 2 for each side 1 big 1 and 1 small one, Like in the photos,
Buster, you have PM... s:D :D s:D
Firstly, a very big thankyou to Buster! I followed his write-up on the previous forum and successfully fitted some Focal 165's to the stock h/u. Even without an amp they sound great... a huge improvement over the stock speakers. Cheers Buster.
And secondly, a couple of tips from my fitting...
* Previsouly, Buster mentioned using flashing tape as a cheap alternative to dynamat. I used this under the crossoverer, and over the speaker wire runs... I've had no rattles (but maybe I wouldn't have had any anyway)
* My mate mentioned that car speakers usually have a rain/water shield to protect them from rain dripping down inside the door. I fashioned one from dynamat/flashing tape. I made a cylinder of dynamat that was about 4 or 5" long and with a diameter that just fits into the speaker hole. I put the cylinder halfway through the hole, then made cuts from the (outside) end of cylinder to door frame, then folded back the slices. This looks like Buster's pic with dynamat round the speaker hole, but there's still a bit of the cylinder inside the door (I knew I should have taken a photo! s:oops: :oops: s:oops: ). I then sliced the cyinder on the inside of the door, but only at the bottom. i.e. I left the top half of the cylinder intact on the inside of the door for the rain shield. I wasn't sure how water proof dynamat is, so I put some flashing tape on the top edge on the shield (this also makes it a bit more solid)
* I found some "coach bolts" in Homebase that were just the right size to go through the MDF spacer and into the stock plastic screw holes. They have a spanner/socket type head and gave a really tight fit.
Hope some of this proves useful to someone!
The rain protector you speak of is a good idea but i have done a bit of investigating and the rain (water on the window) dose not reach inside the door it only makes contact the other side of teh glass to tge speaker so in thoery you shouldnt get any moister in there,
But it dose sound a good idea Zud. Altho i would imagine that the dynomat would limit he amount of air passing throught teh voice coils of the speaker and may over heat if pushed, Are you going to JAE would like to see what you have dont in the flesh s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Buster,
I should have guessed you had the angles covered re: windows, rain water etc! I guess my shield will be belt and braces if water gets on the inside.
I'm not planning to go to JAE, but if it helps... the shield retains the same shape as the initial cylinder, it doesn't hang down behind the speaker (The bit of flashing tape above the "shield" should ensure it stays that shape). Could that still limit the air circulation? Also, for my setup, could the speakers produce that kind of heat without an amp?
Cheers,
Russ (zud)
Russ,
You proboly wont experience much heat without a amp, but with long distance you may with long pay time. The hotter the speaker gets the more the magnets expand so the more ware will take place, This then cause's the magnets to miss aline and then cause distortion. It's not a big case as im sure my speaker get very hot with 200 W RMS going throught them each side but it's worth noting if the speaker qauilty deteriates s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Over all tho do you like the sound they give ?
Buster,
I'm very pleased with the Focals.
After I'd installed one I compared it with the stock speaker in the other door. If anything the stock speaker seemed louder for the same volume setting on the h/u, but this was probably down to all the extra (bad) "noise" it produced! But I could never get the stock speakers above halfway on the volume scale, whereas the Focals handle full volume for most CDs.
Also, the sound quality is many times better, very clear, with plenty of bass, and I get to leave the d-bass on 1 virtually all the time, rather than constanty trying to find a reasonable setting. Do you think they'll put us on commission? s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Buster have you thought of offering a package?
4 Focals + fitting for £x.
Options including Dynamat for an extra £x or an amp for extra £x.
Buster, did you get the PM I sent s:?: :?: s:?:
Quote from: "Comer"Buster have you thought of offering a package?
4 Focals + fitting for £x.
Options including Dynamat for an extra £x or an amp for extra £x.
Yeah but never thought that there would be this much interest worht a go tho i supose but im not realy in it for the £ i like doing it i enjot tackleing a problem, I just hope that when i have a problem with something mehanical in hte car than i could get help to fix it like this !
QuoteBuster, did you get the PM I sent
yeah i got it but i Dont know what you wanted you didnt specify s:wink: :wink: s:wink: Tell me what you want and i will price it up. I can ordre the stuff on line and get it delivered to yours so you can have it before JAE if you want !
If you want Just speakers or an amp or what ever let me know on here and i will let you know Prices and tell me how you want it delivered + how long you at JAE for the 3 days or just 1 as i have around 3 cars to do at the moment s:cry: :cry: s:cry: But i can definaltey fit them all in so dont worry you want lose out i promise s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Is it worth trying to organise a group by for some of these Focals? Is there much/enough interest?
J
I have spoken at last to the Supplier i know and he said that focals are very expensive to buy in and therefore not much mark up so a group buy he wasnt able to do but he has got them cheap,
well same price as halfords but they buy them in the thousands LOL s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
but be warned Halfords want 20 dasy for delivery and dont get it fitted by them as they dont have a clue and will just rip your door cards to shreds s:roll: :roll: s:roll: s:evil: :evil: s:evil:
Just as a side note Buster, mine have arrived from wherever it was that you sent me the link for (after much hassle), or at least they will when I go to the parcel depot and pick them up!
what you had agro from ray-smith ???? tell me what happend?
Basically, I ordered through the website, and one of the early options was to ask if the delivery address is different from the invoice address - so I clicked 'yes'. After then going through the whole order procedure, it gave me a reference number but at no point asked for the alternative delivery address!
I e-mailed them with my address in Telford with a note about the above.
They then called me first thing on Monday morning querying this, asking for ID at the Telford address (which I don't have, it's my GF's place), after a bit of a discussion, I said sod it then, send it to my billing (mom's in Birmingham) address.... which they then demanded to see ID for!! s:? :? s:?
As it happens, I had a solicitors letter at work with me with the B'ham address on it, I had to fax that to them and on checking my mail that evening had a note to say the order had been processed. What a complete ball ache!
Still, as I said, they are with the parcel people, so it's sorted now.
Sorry to here about the problems but i have ordered several times (about 13) and never had a probelm,
Trust you Slacey to confuse them LOL s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Buster"Sorry to here about the problems but i have ordered several times (about 13) and never had a probelm
I knew they would be OK if you recommended them, I'm sure you wouldn't want to tarnish your reputation on this board! s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Quote from: "Buster"Trust you Slacey to confuse them LOL s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Hey, it's what I'm good at! s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
Quote from: "zud"I found some "coach bolts" in Homebase that were just the right size to go through the MDF spacer and into the stock plastic screw holes. They have a spanner/socket type head and gave a really tight fit.
Does anyone have anything more specific on what size these need to be to save me making multiple trips to homebase?
Ta
J
Quote from: "Jimbob"Quote from: "zud"I found some "coach bolts" in Homebase that were just the right size to go through the MDF spacer and into the stock plastic screw holes. They have a spanner/socket type head and gave a really tight fit.
Does anyone have anything more specific on what size these need to be to save me making multiple trips to homebase?
Ta
J
I think I've got a couple left in the garage (there's 4 in a packet)... I'll take a look for the exact name/size/number or whatever would identify them. If I haven't posted in a couple of days, send me a PM to give me a kick up the @rse!
Quote from: "Jimbob"Quote from: "zud"I found some "coach bolts" in Homebase that were just the right size to go through the MDF spacer and into the stock plastic screw holes. They have a spanner/socket type head and gave a really tight fit.
Does anyone have anything more specific on what size these need to be to save me making multiple trips to homebase?
Ta
J
The ones I used were Homebase Coach Screws - M6 x 40mm
They have a thread like a screw and a head like a bolt and come in packets of 4.
Just completed installing some Focals as recommended by Buster, the result is brilliant.
Some tips if you fancy being brave:
1. Getting the door panel off: The black bit around the lever is a nightmare unless you know what you are doing. Stick a screwdriver in the end near the lock button at the top. You should see a tab horizontally right along the very end at the top. Stick another screwdriver under this and it all comes off nicely.
2. Use MDF mounting thingies. I tried gutting the original speaker and failed s:x :x s:x the door panel wouldn't go on cos the speaker stuck out too much. Made some MDF thingies as per Busters decription, easy peazy as long as you have got a jigsaw s:) :) s:) This may only be an '03 problem or it might be me being a muppet.
3. The screws I used to fix the MDF to the door were No. 12 1.75" and they work lovely.
4. Dynamat is ace but it's sticky as hell. Which is good I suppose. I probably haven't put enough on but one "wedge" pack seemed enough.
5. Don't put the crossover were it is on Busters picture cos the foam in the door goes there and the panel dosn't go back on.
Think that's all for now except to thank Buster and Slacey for their e-Assistance.
Lovely. Off for a cruise now...
J
ps Do it, you know you want to s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
arh you can mount the crossovers there just remove the foam s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
it's only to make the door sound tighter s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
This might be a stupid question, but when you remove the door panel, what cables are there for the stock speakers? i.e. can i just splice the wire thats already there and connect it to the crossover that comes with the focals?
yes but it's naff cable
Hi everyone,
I have got myself a set of focal access 165a as recommended by Buster. I have used Buster's guide to try and install them but I have had a major headache today. When trying to put the speaker cable through the gromet of the door and into the car it seems to get stuck and will not go any further. I have used the coat hanger and WD40 technique but it seems to get stuck at the other end.
Could anyone please explain what I am doing wrong. Will I have to remove the underside of the dash to get the cable through? s:shock: :shock: s:shock: Also, should the speaker cable plug straight into the head unit (stock at the mo) or does it go somewhere else first? Any help would be greatly appreciated. (Am half tempted to use the existing cabling!!)
Thanks in advance!
The way I did it:
Pull the grommet out of the wing just inside the door shut, then thread the speaker wire through the grommet from inside the door. Once its through the grommet, you can push it downwards through the hole in the wing and feel for it through the hole in the footwell. Once its through, you can pull all the cable through to length, and push the grommet back into the wing.
Cheers GSB, I'll try that next weekend.
Where should the other end go? s:oops: :oops: s:oops: I'm assuming the headunit, yeah?
Well, I was assuming that the reason you were running new speaker cables was because you were adding an amp too. If you're just going to run the Focals from your Head Unit, then I would say it wasnt really worth the bother. You'll be hard pushed to hear the difference...
The plan is to change the headunit too (Alpine CDA31 or CDA33) and possibly add an amp that time. With the run up to Christmas money's a bit short at the mo! s:( :( s:(
Hi Guys
First post. Just bought 2001 Roadster and will be upgrading speakers.
Will want to run active so I have active crossover and all the bits. The focals get a good name, but would others be possible. I would imagine that the 6.5" speaker is the easy bit as all are roughly the same, but presumably you have to find a nice round tweeter.
Was thinking about these...take particular attention to the tweeter
m http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product ... 94d75d6f9c (http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3670&cadid=0d2b25bb7a9a04d563daf894d75d6f9c) m
Hi there!
Just bought an '01, and i can't believe how bad the stock speakers are!! all the help on this site is absolutely fantastic, thankyou!
Buster - I noticed that you offered to make up the spacers and post em out if anyone needed some... any chance you could let me know how much you'd want? I'm absolutely terrible at anything DIY orientated and am gonna have enough trouble just fitting the things!!! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
again, thanks for all the help and stuff!
Quote from: "jamesr1"Buster - I noticed that you offered to make up the spacers and post em out if anyone needed some... any chance you could let me know how much you'd want? I'm absolutely terrible at anything DIY orientated and am gonna have enough trouble just fitting the things!!! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
again, thanks for all the help and stuff!
Buster isn't around much nowadays so you won't have much luck going down this avenue. You can buy spacers from any decent car entertainment shop s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
thats a good guide for a smiple upgrade s:) :) s:)
I ordered up a set of alpine sps171A component speakers and fitted them the other day -
The problem is they sound cack - like way worse than the originals!
the specs are as follows:
250 WATT PEAK POWER
50 WATT RMS POWER
FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 35HZ - 30 KHZ
SENSITIVITY: 90DB/W/M
so effectively they should be a million times better than the stock!
I've therefore concluded that i must have done something wrong!
All speakers are in phase and polarity is correct. Ive kept the stock wiring and have fitted the crossovers that came with the kit.
Can anybody think of anything obvious i might have done wrong?
(Ebay link: m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 5846796527 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5846796527) m )
Cheers,
Richie.
I would like to offer a bit of advice, and a small alternative if I might.
When making the MDF baffle for mounting the new speakers, soaking the MDF in resin made for fiberglass work (polyester base - find it at any marine shop) helps avoid the tendency of MDF to soak up humidity and turn into a sponge like material. It happened in my previous car (Subaru SVX) in about 18 months (I live in Florida - think quite rainy at times - and more than a bit humid).
The alternative (which I use) is to find a bit of scrap Corian from a kitchen countertop company. It cuts like hard maple (which means wood working tools are just fine), and has even better resonance qualities than MDF - only two things better (IMO) which are granite & concrete - not the easiest to use for a speaker baffle. I got my scrap for free - from the bin after the shop closed for the day - on the advice of a worker there - they can't sell directly to consumers in the US - supplier/company rules/contract or some such.
Or the approach I took, which was to cut the centre out of the existing speaker and mount the new speaker on the remaining plastic outer.
Yeah, this link is really good. I just got a MK3 '01 Roadster and I was very disapointed with the overallsound of the speakers.
I was looking at replacing the speakers but just wondered if it was worth replacing the head unit itself, it is the Sony CD/Tape Xplod with the 3 levels of bass that you have a knob to turn. I presume this was the standard with the motor.
Just looking at the Alpine SPX-177R and thought they looked pretty good but is their anyway of adding an amp unit without making a mess of the dashboard or storing it anywhere else, or will their be enough space when the head unit is fully installed. And if so what would be a good Amp to hook up???
Thanks for your help in advance! s:) :) s:)
nice one buster, followed ur instructions.
they sound the business.
even got a cheap big roll of dynamt from halfrauds for 20 quid
good guide for anyone considering this mod
Does anyone know what the maximum speaker depth you can fit in the front doors is? In other words, the distance between the window (when it's down) and the door card?
Cheers.
would these fit do you guys think ?
Infinity: Reference 9613i - 6"x9" speakers
They are 6" high but a bit wider ? anyone who has changed speakers dod there look to be room ?
m http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /1199.html (http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/1199.html) m
Thanks,
Phil
6 x 9 won't fit in teh doors
Yeah i also realised they werent component. Thanks.
Since then I have individualy sourced the parts of the deal I saw cheaper anyway.
These are best I have found so far on the component front. I presume they will fit.
m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&item=180011915216&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1) m
Infinity 16.5cm (6.5") KAPPA 65.7cs component speakers.
I think I just about got my head around things, Ill get a 4 channel amp and a sub and should be good to go.
Thanks everyone,
Phil
should be fine I have the older version froma few years back in mine
could you give me the measurement of the speaker spacer please? or do you have a template i could trace round?
thanx m. s:? :? s:?
mailto:em22chick@hotmail.com
Quote from: "em22chick"could you give me the measurement of the speaker spacer please? or do you have a template i could trace round?
thanx m. s:? :? s:?
mailto:em22chick@hotmail.com
They are not symmetrical, so a template is best.
PM paulwhite1977 whose getting one I did from philster.
I don't think I have the woodworking skills to make my own spacers and I gather they are necessary when replacing the speakers (?).
Is there any alternative? Is it the sort of thing that a stereo installer would be able to make?
just gut teh stock paper cones and use teh frame
Quote from: "markiii"just gut the stock paper cones and use the frame
.... Now why didn't I think of that..... would have made the job a lot easier... s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Great sticky s:) :) s:) and along with this thread...was really easy.
m http://www.spydermagazine.com/2000/Sept ... panels.htm (http://www.spydermagazine.com/2000/Sept/doorpanel/doorpanels.htm) m
Now i have Dynomatted doors and Infinity Reference 6512si which sound excellent btw s:) :) s:)
I did not create a template or mounting bracket...i just butchered the existing cardboard speakers so i could use the grey plastic surround mounting...very very easy..
Happy with result s:) :) s:)
Anyone know where all the pictures in Busters original post have gone?? s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Buster sold his car years ago and probably took down the pictures at the same time off his host....sorry.
That sucks. I was about to do my own install.
Most of the text in busters original step-by-step guide is easier to understand.
I just wanted to check if anybody had any pictures or comments to aid my understanding of the following points:
1. Best location for and how to attach the cross-over within the door?
2. Picture or description of exactly where and how to trim to fit the 1" tweeter in?
Thanks alot for any comments or pictures.
Andy
......oh
3. Where people laid the dynomat? (Although I assume this all over any exposed area of the inside of the outer door panel?)
Cheers
Andy
1. If you take the armrest (or the door panel) off you will see a polystyrene block. I used velcro to put mine there, and positioned it so I could reach the switches just by taking the armrest off. In actual fact I've never touched it since install!
2. I used the existing hole for my tweeters, but had to enlarge them slightly. The tweeter kit came with 2 or 3 alternative fixings, and TBH it was trial and error for the best. I guess what you get and how you do it depends on what kit you buy.
3. And yes, I did just the door cards, and covered everything!
Thanks for the comments Roger.
Don't quite understand what you meant in 3.
You did just the door cards but covered everything? s:? :? s:?
Am i reading that wrong or was it a typo?
Cheers
Andy
Quote from: "andywood"Thanks for the comments Roger.
Don't quite understand what you meant in 3.
You did just the door cards but covered everything? s:? :? s:?
Am i reading that wrong or was it a typo?
Cheers
Andy
What I meant was I covered ALL of the door card.
Sorry
Cheers Roger, got myself another job for the weekend now! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Andy.
s:?: :?: s:?:
I was wondering if somebody could post some new step by step fitting pictures as Busters from the original post are now gone s:( :( s:(
go on here http://www.spydermagazine.com/ you'll find some instructions with pictures at the bottom of the page.
s:D :D s:D
Thank you very much Scottish_Turbo s:!: :!: s:!:
Very much appreciated s8) 8) s8)
So after reading this if i was going to get better speakers I need to get a componenet set.
my question is how does the standard speakers receive the different frequencies before an aftermarket crossover is installed?
If i just got some coaxials and use the existing power cables going into the 6.5" would that be adequit?
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"my question is how does the standard speakers receive the different frequencies before an aftermarket crossover is installed? badly!!!
i along with many have changed the speakers. it makes a huge difference. dont compromise, get it done.
I think the stock speakers use just a resistor or something as a very crude crossover. My Alpine X series have crossovers the size of the Isle of Wight!
Thanks for feedback. I am tempted to just go for a good pair of coaxials.
So if i went for a component set I can use the existing power cable?
run it into the crossover and then wires to the respective speakers? What is putting me of is that I dont want to start having to run extra wires or take another 12v feed from some where
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"So if i went for a component set I can use the existing power cable?
run it into the crossover and then wires to the respective speakers? What is putting me of is that I dont want to start having to run extra wires or take another 12v feed from some where
That's what I did, changed the HU & speakers / crossover and kept original wiring into the door, and spliced new wiring from there.
I'm told would have better sound if ALL the wiring was upgraded, but its good enough for me.
Quote from: "roger"That's what I did, changed the HU & speakers / crossover and kept original wiring into the door, and spliced new wiring from there.
I'm told would have better sound if ALL the wiring was upgraded, but its good enough for me.
12AWG speaker wire is complete overkill anyway, 16AWG will be fine and easier to install/cheaper. Infact, unless you're going for MEGA watts the stock cable will be fine (OEM car cable usually has more strands in it than you think) and don't no-one tell me that some of you lot are golden-eared audiophiles who can hear differences between speaker cables s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
You'll want decent, shielded interconnects between HU and amp, though.
Tbh I reckon the best first upgrade from stock would be a power cleaner. Mine is really noisy.
Edit: this was interference from my old FM MP3 thing. IO Connect and wired MP3 and it sounds great, if lacking in bass.
Next step has to be some better speakers I guess. More expense s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"So if i went for a component set I can use the existing power cable?
run it into the crossover and then wires to the respective speakers? What is putting me of is that I dont want to start having to run extra wires or take another 12v feed from some where
i used the exisiting wire and spliced in the new speakers crossovers etc. yes it would have been better to change/upgrade the wire, but lets face it, the car is a roadster, its noisy, top down, its even noisier. you aint gonna notice it when you are on the move.
if you are a rude wide boy and the ICE cruuze car park donut spinning are your bag, then yes change the wire.
one thing that is VERY important. get some dynomat or similar sound proofing material. this will make things a lot quieter in the cabin.
E
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"So after reading this if i was going to get better speakers I need to get a componenet set.
my question is how does the standard speakers receive the different frequencies before an aftermarket crossover is installed?
?
Having been inside my doors now, taken a look and changed the speakers, I now know something about the stock installation at least in an 05 car:
From the factory the full frequency range is sent to both drivers it seems. The tweeters are protected from receiving the lower frequencies by an in-series capacitor which will only pass HF of course. The bass units will not be bothered by the higher frequencies and have no filtering whatsoever. This layout is extremely common for in-car audio and must provide something like a first-order roll-off for both drivers I guess. A low-cost cross-over by contrast typically provides second order using a pair of CR circuits, one for the HF and one for the LF driver. In the case of the bass (LF) units this original fitment design will be uncontrolled and the tweeters are not going to be great handled this way either. However I reckon that the lack of a crossover is not the biggest issue.
The stock tweeters do not extend very far into the upper frequencies far on my vehicle and I am assuming this is typical. To be honest they are poor. In addition the tweeters are significantly less sensative than the bass units so the frequencies they do cover are too quiet anyway. Finally, the bass units suffer quite badly from resonance. So I know all this is designed and built to a cost but I am still surprised just how bad they can make these things. I am sure one could have had a single wide-band driver with better response than this supposed component set-up.
The resonance of the LF units might be improved with some sound treatment in the doors but mine are coming out so I will never know. The HF units are just never going to sound good. Replacement component speakers will improve the situation - if they are a half-competent design. Component speaker sets with a cross-over are better but this is often artly because these sets just have better drivers anyway.
I changed my stock speakers at the weekend for a reasonable component set with crossovers. I just gutted the stock speakers as others have done to use the plastic frame and just stuck with the stock wiring to make things easy for me. I encountered a problem with bass vibration noise that I managed to solve so I thought i'd post up my solution in case anyone else is faced with the same situation.
I had fully lined my door with flashing tape as an alternative to dynomat. The speakers went in nice and securely using the plastic frame (cardboard removed as that made my speakers sit too far out if fitted on to it). Refitted all the door bits and then put some music on..... with any decent bass level I was getting a significant vibration from the grill area. Basically this was resulting from the speaker edge slightly touching part of the grill. On further examination I found that the problem area was a couple of moulded fixed clips on the back of the grill - basically where the grill is fixed on to the rest of the door plastic. I had to therefore remove the whole grill/pocket section (breaking the moulded clips) and trim off the 2 offending clip sections - the 2 bits that jutt out into the grill opening. As the stock grill is oval, and speakers are obviously round, I also trimmed a bit off right round the grill opening so that there was no further chance of contact. I then reattached the grill/pocket by using some black rubber sealant stuff. The vibration is fully gone and I can have the bass up - well chuffed with the sound quality for minimal expense.
hi buster, im looking to upgrade my front speakers and complete sound system. and i just read your post. but i have no idea of speakers and what not!
any chance of some help or explaination?!
email or something?
Let me know
Cheers!
You do realise that the first post was written 7 years ago and Buster hasn't logged on since 2006? You'll be lucky if he answers your question.
Well if he's too late i guess its back to hunting through the threads s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Just thought I would quickly post up my speaker install. I bought some Focal 165a1 component speakers to fit in my 2, £92 new from Fleabay. I gutted the standard speaker mount hacksawing out the magnet and supports leaving me with a outer ring to mount the new speaker to, easy to do, takes 10 mins, far easier than making up mdf ones and as others have said the stock mount has a rain/water guard. Also peel off the stock cardboard surround and then screw the new speaker directly to the mount.
I carefully peeled back half of the stock polythene door cover to gain access to the door skin (you can get to the front half of the door through the speaker hole), covered the inside of the outer door skin with Wickes Flashing tape (150mm x 10m £13) tip here is to heat the flashing tape with a hairdryer once applied to help heat up the tack and get a good bond (if you have a dark coloured car and are doing it in the summer this may not be necessary?). Then re apply the polythene back over the holes.
I then ditched the stock tweeter mounting bracket that is screwed to the door and opted to mount the Focal tweeter to the door card instead so also ditched the stock tweeter cover, this being far easier than trying to screw the new tweeter to the door, you'll have to enlarge the tweeter hole in the door card a little.
Then using the existing wiring in the door to hook up to the crossover which I mounted onto the top of the foam block in the door card with some self adhesive velcro. TIP: Left door Pink wire is +, purple wire is -, Right door Green wire is +, blue is - (thanks stargazer30 & cclarke99)
I also flash taped the inside of the door card, and so pretty much used up all of the tape so you know how much to buy.
I took a couple of pic's of the door card and the door skin after i flashed them, I didn't bother taking photo's of the whole process as so many have done this before.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6902248293_e0639ac34c_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61993487@N02/6902248293/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61993487@N02/6902248293/) by Aki_Z1000 (http://www.flickr.com/people/61993487@N02/), on Flickr
After taking this pic and realising I would have enough left over I went back and also stuck some tape along the bottom edge of the inside of the door card, you just can't use too much of this stuff!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7194/6902246759_81626cfb35_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61993487@N02/6902246759/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61993487@N02/6902246759/) by Aki_Z1000 (http://www.flickr.com/people/61993487@N02/), on Flickr
Very neat job AckerMR2! :-) :-) :-)
The bottom of the door card is a good idea as it rattles here at high volume I had to take mine back off to get it. Also I used a little clear silicone on the plastic clips on the door card to stop them rattling!
Good tip that about the silicone, as last night I noticed a slight rattle from the back of the door card near my elbow, bet its the rear clip half way up the card. A quick fix as I've had the door cards off so many times over the weekend I can do it now with my eyes shut in under 2 minutes s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
hi all, used this thread to fit some infinity reference components into my g/f's MR2 at the weekend. All went well so thanks to all who have posted tips.
Can't believe how much better it sounds, really pleased with the results. s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:
Hi All,
Help, I can't see the images, anyone got any ideas ?
Regards
Steve
Quote from: "Red Rooster"Hi All,
Help, I can't see the images, anyone got any ideas ?
Regards
Steve
They've all gone as it was posted 9 years ago s:) :) s:)
If there's not another how to on here try spydermagazine (speaker install) and midshiprunabout.org (how to run speaker wire through doors) which should help with most of it. The guide's still here though don't really need pics.
Hi, just wanted to add my 2p about sound proofing, as I've done it many times on various cars.
Sound insulation such as dynamat is designed for thin metal surfaces such as the metal door itself - not the door card.
Now I'm not trying to start a war here just trying to help direct people's efforts s:) :) s:)
I'm sure putting it on the door card wouldn't hurt, but the dynamat is designed to reduce "ringing" (vibration) in the metal which is usually relatively thin and light a bit like a bell. Adding a dense acoustically-inert substance to the metal, prevents the ringing like putting a finger over a bell. It also blocks some road noise which can travel through metal quite easily and the dynamat impedes it.
The door cards themselves appear to already be an acoustically damped material (soft plastic) so should reduce the noise a bit already.
-- Obviously adding dynamat to the cards won't hurt! But it's not the main aim here s:) :) s:)
Correct me if I'm wrong of course s;) ;) s;)
Your probably right but I had some left over after doing the door skins so it seemed a shame to waste it s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Of course, can't hurt s:) :) s:)
Hi, first post s:) :) s:)
I've followed this guide from spyder chat and all went ok:
m http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread ... 00-Install (http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?46823-Polk-Audio-DXi-6500-Install) m
The only change I've made was to secure the tweeters in the same place has the old ones so they get the same "tilt angle" and with that I didn't had to cut the door because I was able to fit the original plastic.
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"If i just got some coaxials and use the existing power cables going into the 6.5" would that be adequit?
its not power cable its speaker wire s:wink: :wink: s:wink: , so yes it'll be fine, unless you are seriously upgrading.
So, new to the forum, I can't see the pictures. Are the links broken, or is it just me?
Yes the links have died s:( :( s:(
Thanks tricky!
Any benefit to be had by installing components with the stock headunit? Guessing with the lack of power most stock units output, the sound quality (esp. low tones) could degrade unless using ultra sensitive speakers.
They will sound better, the standard speakers will have had it by now!
adding a new head unit in the future will yield even more results though
+1 on that, the stock speakers are quite poor, so even modest components can give an improvement.
As will spending £10 on a roll of Wickes roof flashing s;) ;) s;)
Be careful with flashing tape, if its got Bitumen is will smell.
I've used this stuff on my van and theres no smell as its free of Bitumen and works well.
m http://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-multisea ... -10m/94203 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-multiseal-butyl-flashing-tape-grey-150mm-x-10m/94203) m
i needt o do this,, helpful
Updated/commented list - as used when I did this:
Components (low/mid range 6.5" and 1" Tweeter) - I used Pioneer TS-E171ci
Speaker adapters (plastic alternative to MDF). £20 on eBay, really be ~£5, but I just wanted them ASAP.
(A few long screws and around 3-4mm thick) - not needed, screws provided with speakers.
Sound deadening (dynomat or brown bread) - I lined the immediate area with a 10" x 10" patch of Dynamat Xtreme, not as thorough as some, but I didn't remove the foam block of insulation.
(Speaker wire 12 awg) - I was fine with the existing, it was in good condition and I only have a 4x50W MOSFET in the headunit (<20W RMS).
crimpers and bullet and sockets - yep, basic tools, and a few screw drivers / plastic tools
Soldering iron - I didn't don't judge: I ran out of solder, so actually just used adapter plugs* / twisted and taped for now (need to revisit this!).
*I didn't want to cut anything until I was sure, so I got the adapters to take a line from existing Toyota plug into spades - hence less need for soldering!
Just to add my 2p to the thread - I've not seen anything about the Toyota-specific speaker adaptors that I used. They are not marked actually out as being for the Roadster but having noted that they were for the Corolla from the same era, it was obvious to me that they would be a direct fit which they are. Part number is CT25TY02 (https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/ct25ty02-toyota-4-runner-auris-avensis-corolla-highlander-165mm-speaker-adaptor.html) and packaging is marked as 'Toyota 165mm'. I paid £8.50 for them.
Previous owner of my own car had replaced speakers with a budget set and had used the carcass of the OE ones to mount the new ones. I tried to follow suit when I fitted my Pioneers but found that it placed them too far out and they rattled against the door panel when in use.