I thought I'd start posting about my car; this may actually get me to stop being lazy and keep on doing things until I achieve the goal I set s:lol: :lol: s:lol: Proud owner since 6th of January 2015. A W-plate, not a show-stopper to begin with.
Had rough-running issues first day in plus MIL. Did a thorough service (plugs, coil packs, filters, LOADS of 5w40 and new lambda sensor), cleared all errors and car was transformed! Now sounds relatively healthy, for 131k on the clock.
Since the soft-top was not in the best condition ever, I decided to invest in a hard-top. Originally a red (guy was really eager to get rid of it as he sold his car without it) and I got it plus the fitting kit for less than £300! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: Painted gloss black now (about £150 incl. prep). I'll sort the soft-top eventually, but I have more important things in mind at the moment.
Pictures will soon follow! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
General plan is to swap the 1zz for a 2zz and create a car that can do both road and track.
Following mods planned/completed:
1. Exterior/Paint
a. Facelift (bumpers, headlamps) - parts obtained, work pending
b. HZ Performance spoiler - part obtained, paint and fitting pending
c. Black Pack paint scheme (hardtop, side vents, badges, front and rear grille in gloss black) - 50% complete
d. Discreet rear diffuser? - Research
2. Interior Trim
a. Widermuller's knobs - Pending
b. TTE Chrome pack - Pending
c. [strike:222hyk2x]Armrest[/strike:222hyk2x]- Fitted, thanks James s:D :D s:D (monkeysmr2)
d. Some leather reclining buckets - Pending
e. [strike:222hyk2x]Clear courtesy light cluster[/strike:222hyk2x] - Fitted
f. LED interior lighting - Research
g. [strike:222hyk2x]Short Shifter[/strike:222hyk2x]- Fitted
h. Centre Console with integrated cupholders - Planned
3. Powertrain
a. 2zz-ge + 6 speed gearbox - Planning
b. LSD adaptation - Planning
c. Upgraded sump
d. Engine mount (MWR?)
e. CV joints replacement? (needs inspection)
f. Cooling (for sure an oil cooler)
g. Exhaust (Custom Manifold - Looking into ceramic coating, Back box Remus?)
h. Air intake (Research)
4. Chassis
a. [strike:222hyk2x]X-brace[/strike:222hyk2x] - Fitted
b. MeisterR Coilovers - Planned
c. EBC Discs - Planned
d. Yellowstuff pads - Planned
e. Polybush kit - Planned
f. ARB replacement - Planned
5. Electrical
a. [strike:222hyk2x]New head unit for phone connectivity[/strike:222hyk2x] - Fitted
b. [strike:222hyk2x]HID headlamp kit[/strike:222hyk2x] - Fitted
c. Re-route window disable switch for DRL - Planned
d. Remove aerial and blank rear right quarter - Planned
Thanks for reading s:) :) s:)
Photo as listed in its sales ad: Didn't disappoint, for the right side of the car. Left had a few marks indicating questionable driving skills of previous owner. Decided to buy it as mechanically it seemed reasonably well.
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/IMG_20150109_185737_zpsqm2csiy7.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/IMG_20150109_185737_zpsqm2csiy7.jpg.html)
And here it is with the hardtop I got for it 3 months later. Red, flaking badly though. Decided to re-spray in gloss black.
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/IMG_20150530_174707_zpsjehahisi.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/IMG_20150530_174707_zpsjehahisi.jpg.html)
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/655aa323-e2e4-4aa8-b78e-8832d365fc21_zps1i9u1m5y.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/655aa323-e2e4-4aa8-b78e-8832d365fc21_zps1i9u1m5y.jpg.html)
And here it is with the gloss black paint now. Love it! s:D :D s:D s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/IMAG0575_zpsvsucgntk.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/IMAG0575_zpsvsucgntk.jpg.html)
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/IMAG0574_zpsxs1uggxs.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/IMAG0574_zpsxs1uggxs.jpg.html)
Why black and not blue? Just curious.
Quote from: "StuC"Why black and not blue? Just curious.
Good point. Actually, I'm thinking more of a black and white colour scheme in the future (after 2zz swap). Black and blue are not a very good combination in general s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Mmmmmmm monochrome. s;-) ;-) s;-)
Quote from: "StuC"Mmmmmmm monochrome. s;-) ;-) s;-)
Duotone only works in certain colour schemes very well, but I believe this suits it. Plus, soft tops are black most of the time, regardless of body colour s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I think you can get away with a black hard top on any colour without it looking too daft.
Looks better than the red / blue anyway s:) :) s:)
Welcome Manos!
Hardtop looks much nicer to me than the softtop, I think maybe if you painted the windscreen surround black it'd look even more spot on... I like the black/blue combo.
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"I think you can get away with a black hard top on any colour without it looking too daft.
Looks better than the red / blue anyway s:) :) s:)
Red-blue was only missing the Union Jack logo s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "jonty"Welcome Manos!
Hardtop looks much nicer to me than the softtop, I think maybe if you painted the windscreen surround black it'd look even more spot on... I like the black/blue combo.
I've had this exact thought myself. Right now getting a stage 1 spoiler and facelift side vents in gloss black. Thinking more of a "black pack" theme for later on, if and when I paint the rest of the car white.
The black/white will look good.
Will need something black at the front to balance the colour, black splitter or something
Quote from: "Leethesparky"The black/white will look good.
Will need something black at the front to balance the colour, black splitter or something
Thinking along the lines of a black FRP or CF bonnet and engine lid...We'll see when the time comes s:) :) s:)
Right, back from hols. Adjusting back to UK climate was a tough challenge on its own. With all that energy re-gained, I decided to fit a new stereo s:D :D s:D Thinking of a rear camera as well, thoughts anyone?
The spoiler and facelift vents are being painted gloss black as we speak, should be ready for the dong day s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Out with the old:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-08-16%2019.23.54-1_zpstzrrz3pe.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-08-16%2019.23.54-1_zpstzrrz3pe.jpg.html)
In with the new:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-08-16%2019.27.06_zpsentqwzde.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-08-16%2019.27.06_zpsentqwzde.jpg.html)
a mic for the phone connecivity as well:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-08-16%2019.27.10%20-%20Copy_zpssbjbs5gq.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-08-16%2019.27.10%20-%20Copy_zpssbjbs5gq.jpg.html)
Dong day was awesome! The opportunity to put faces to names, get new ideas and advice for other people, plus get some work done while at it. s:) :) s:)
Fresh out the paint shop were the vents and the spoiler, thought it'd be a good opportunity to fit them yesterday.
Facelift side vents:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2013.24.39%20-%20Copy_zpstxhavpod.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2013.24.39%20-%20Copy_zpstxhavpod.jpg.html)
Spoiler (HINT: Use masking tape to mark the correct positions, otherwise you might end up with asymmetrical holes on your engine lid):
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2013.24.57_zpseupoofw0.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2013.24.57_zpseupoofw0.jpg.html)
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2013.24.52%20-%20Copy_zpsznwqnbmt.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2013.24.52%20-%20Copy_zpsznwqnbmt.jpg.html)
The black pack idea is coming along nicely! Better than I expected! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Made up my mind sticking with blue, rather than re-spraying the car white. For now, at least s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Aerial will be fixed soon too.
Next up, some more performance mods this time. Coilovers for starters, followed by brakes. Circa end of Sep - mid-Oct s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Nice to see you hitting the ground running! Lots of progress, looking good s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Nice to see you hitting the ground running! Lots of progress, looking good s:) :) s:)
Thanks, can't wait to do the foundation performance mods (brakes and suspension). s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Need to inspect power steering as well, getting a whining noise in stop/start traffic, might just be a fluid change. If that doesn't do it, I'll keep fiddling around and get it sorted.
Another photo took today, after the weather calmed down. Loving the new colour scheme more and more by the minute:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2020.12.14_zpsgfjjgjrs.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-08-23%2020.12.14_zpsgfjjgjrs.jpg.html)
I like the colour scheme too. Always good to be different.
Quote from: "saicab"I like the colour scheme too. Always good to be different.
Thanks, that was inspired by the black pack many cars sport nowadays. Next will come a few performance mods, stay tuned s:D :D s:D
Right, after a bit of an idling period due to work and other commitments, did some minor jobs on the car and soon to do a couple of biggies:
* Clear courtesy light cluster and hardtop demister cable (courtesy of ROCshop) s:D :D s:D
* Clear side repeaters (MR2Ben)
Just went "shopping" for new seats, and fell in love with these (http://corbeau.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/d/0/rrs-e39.jpg), which I've now bought! Awaiting delivery to put them on s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Also, soon to get a set of Meister R coilovers and a full brake kit (EBC +yellowstuff). s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
As 2zz conversion is planned for 2016 Q2, any ideas on exhaust and air intake?
Demister Cable and clear courtesy light cluster, as delivered, ready for installation:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2011.19.47_zpsdwhn0huu.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2011.19.47_zpsdwhn0huu.jpg.html)
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2011.20.04_zpsalbyhdlt.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2011.20.04_zpsalbyhdlt.jpg.html)
Literally, 2 minutes-jobs each:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2013.18.31_zpslpoczggs.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2013.18.31_zpslpoczggs.jpg.html)
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2013.18.42_zps3hrb4y4l.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2013.18.42_zps3hrb4y4l.jpg.html)
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2013.19.11_zpswfsrytdn.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-09-05%2013.19.11_zpswfsrytdn.jpg.html)
Makes me chuckle that the cable went from rugby, via Bicester, via Middlesbrough to get to Coventry.
Its certainly well travelled.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "StuC"Makes me chuckle that the cable went from rugby, via Bicester, via Middlesbrough to get to Coventry.
Its certainly well travelled.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Now that I know it makes me chuckle too s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Some bad news I'm afraid.
The threaded stud holding the spoiler down split. Although I have put more bolts to secure the spoiler down, the forces have also deformed my lid s:( :( s:(
I've shelled out for a new lid plus an hz performance spoiler (as far as I know mad motors url is not allowed here, so this is an alternalive link (http://directcartoys.com/2000-2005-MR2-Spyder-Factory-Style-Rear-Wing-Spoiler-P2573189.aspx))
Quick update: Spoiler is now being painted, will fit once back.
Also, got a hold of a FL bumper and FL headlamps.
Looking for the correct LED halo rings for my DRL mod.
Suspension tuning pushed in November.
Quote from: "manos3003"Looking for the correct LED halo rings for my DRL mod.
I started a halo project for my pfl's. I managed to get a nice looking product, but then I pushed for Dr's and I ran out of steam. Interested to see what you come up with.
Quote from: "StuC"Quote from: "manos3003"Looking for the correct LED halo rings for my DRL mod.
I started a halo project for my pfl's. I managed to get a nice looking product, but then I pushed for Dr's and I ran out of steam. Interested to see what you come up with.
I'll see if I can find a way to re-route the window disable switch ( probably the least used switch in our cars s:lol: :lol: s:lol: ) to turn them on. I'll keep you posted on progress.
I was going to get a switch and use it in the blank spaces to the left of the steering wheel. That way you keep all of the functionality of the original car, however pointless! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "StuC"I was going to get a switch and use it in the blank spaces to the left of the steering wheel. That way you keep all of the functionality of the original car, however pointless! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I don't see why keeping the window disable switch. Afraid the Mrs or the dog might escape through the window? s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quick update: FL parts just picked up, courtesy of "He who must not be mentioned here". Bumper's red, so needs re-paint. Will paint blue with black Toyota Logo (seen so many spyders with the eagle logo, so want something less ordinary - OUCH s:lol: :lol: s:lol: ).
Also, headlamps are slightly cloudy, but nothing my mop with some polish on won't manage s:) :) s:)
For HID projectors (I'm looking for something of a better spec than what I currently have) I'm looking here (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/). I'll let you guys and girls know if it's any good.
Also, measured the clusters diametres for the proper ring sizes and will paint it black, as I've seen in here it's popular and doesn't spiss piss spiss people off when driving on main beam s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
To be updated when finished, with photos if worthy for a walkthrough s:) :) s:)
Yay! Rexypow centre console has arrived. All it needs is a coat of paint, when the weather gets dry again s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Lovely. I wish it was as I wanted it. But it's such an improvement over stock.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Lovely. I wish it was as I wanted it. But it's such an improvement over stock.
Well, yeah, you lose function of the lighter, which helps charging a phone, but there have to be ways around this. For now, it enters the queue of "stuff needing paint" s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Adding to my parts inventory, a pair of front spats out of fibreglass. Grabbed an offer from a guy called Nigel Smith on Facebook. Again, entering the queue of "stuff needing paint". s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Also, going to Rogue tomorrow to discuss the 2zz conversion.
Nice friendly bunch down at Rogue. Did clear up some clouds regarding air intake, exhaust header etc..Current plan for Q2 2016 s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Off to find me a donor car now s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Moving quickly s:) :) s:) is it all standard swap parts or do rogue offer custom built parts for any of it, I.e exhaust?
Good news manos s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Moving quickly s:) :) s:) is it all standard swap parts or do rogue offer custom built parts for any of it, I.e exhaust?
Well, they do offer a custom air intake, cat pipe and engine mount. I'll need to provide some other bits such as:
Clutch
Exhaust header
Catalytic converter
6 speed reverse lockout and gearbox selector shaft
Now pushing all suspension mods at that time, as the car will be already taken apart at the rear and I will have better access at things I need to swap such as ARB and bushes.
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Good news manos s:) :) s:)
Indeed, very excited s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Quick update:
1. Exterior/Paint
a. Facelift (bumpers, headlamps) - parts obtained, work pending
b. HZ Performance spoiler - part obtained, painted, fitting pending
c. Black Pack paint scheme (hardtop, side vents, badges, front and rear grille in gloss black) - 50% complete
d. Discreet rear diffuser? - Research
2. Interior Trim
a. Widermuller's knobs - Pending
b. TTE Chrome pack - Pending
c. [strike:1lot0vvo]Armrest- Fitted[/strike:1lot0vvo], thanks James s:D :D s:D (monkeysmr2)
d. Some leather reclining buckets - Pending
e. [strike:1lot0vvo]Clear courtesy light cluster - Fitted[/strike:1lot0vvo]
f. LED interior lighting - Research
g. [strike:1lot0vvo]Short Shifter- Fitted[/strike:1lot0vvo]
h. Rexypow centre console- Obtained, needs leather wrapping
3. Powertrain
a. 2zz-ge + 6 speed gearbox - Planning
b. LSD adaptation - Planning
c. Upgraded sump
d. Engine mount - Rogue will supply their own while swapping
e. CV joints replacement? (needs inspection)
f. Cooling (for sure an oil cooler)
g. Exhaust (Custom Manifold - Looking into ceramic coating, Back box Remus?)
h. Air intake (Research)
4. Chassis
a. [strike:1lot0vvo]X-brace - Fitted[/strike:1lot0vvo]
b. MeisterR Coilovers - Planned
c. EBC Discs - Planned
d. Yellowstuff pads - Planned
e. Polybush kit - Planned
f. ARB replacement - Planned
5. Electrical
a. [strike:1lot0vvo]New head unit for phone connectivity - Fitted[/strike:1lot0vvo]
b. [strike:1lot0vvo]HID headlamp kit - Fitted[/strike:1lot0vvo] Although I'll go for a new set for my FL headlamps
c. Re-route window disable switch for DRL - Planned
d. Remove aerial and blank rear right quarter - Planned
Viewing a possible donor car on Monday! Priced for £700, but has done over 100k miles, so engine may be a bit tired. Don't know if it's worth a rebuild at this stage. I guess a test-drive will give me the answer.
Good news! Personally, if you've got the funds. I would go for a rebuilt this stage, saves you the agro of removing and refitting if you need to. Me be able to add a few mods, don't know anything about Honda tuning, but something like porting and head work to squeeze out some extra oomph?
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Good news! Personally, if you've got the funds. I would go for a rebuilt this stage, saves you the agro of removing and refitting if you need to. Me be able to add a few mods, don't know anything about Honda tuning, but something like porting and head work to squeeze out some extra oomph?
Honda tuning? 2zz is the engine from the Celica T-sport, like the one Mark has s:lol: :lol: s:lol: 2zz is not a good engine to try and port, it might prove disastrous.
I think the test drive will tell me all I need to know about this engine, so I'll give it a go. If I see some worth in rebuilding it, I'll call dibs. Else, I'm afraid I'm going down the "conversion bundle" purchase from someone who does these kinds of things.
Where's the car Manos? Local?
Quote from: "StuC"Where's the car Manos? Local?
In Nottingham if I remember correctly.
God knows why I thought you were going for a K20!! getting confused, too many different builds going on at the moment!! s:) :) s:) how much is a 2zz rebuilt?
Quote from: "Jrichards20"God knows why I thought you were going for a K20!! getting confused, too many different builds going on at the moment!! s:) :) s:) how much is a 2zz rebuilt?
Scratch previous answer, was feeling sleepy. A reconditioned 2zz with low mileage is around 1000, gearbox is a few hundred more. So getting a used car and doing the work yourself may seem more cost-effective.
No need for a rebuild, just refresh it (new seals, lift bolts, aux belt etc) and drop it in! s:idea: :idea: s:idea:
Quote from: "Alex Knight"No need for a rebuild, just refresh it (new seals, lift bolts, aux belt etc) and drop it in! s:idea: :idea: s:idea:
The donor car I'm after has had quite a bit of mileage, I think a good work or rebuild on the engine won't do any harm.
Had to walk away from the donor car. Nasty knock noise on crank. Could be crank shells or even worse, crankshaft. No worth the gamble, I can wait.
In the meantime:
* Bought some leather off ebay to wrap my rexypow console
* Had a reply from retrofit source. They can provide a full HID kit for $270 with LED halos. Also a nice pair of LED foglamps too. Could be worth the investment, as they are proper projectors.
* Starting to prioritise on other helpful bits I'll need for the swap (6-spd selector shaft, baffled sump etc)
Another potential donor car viewed today and closed a deal s:D :D s:D
Drove fine, no nasty noises coming from the engine or the gearbox. Only a whistle from the exhaust at 4500 rpm (some resonance frequencies) and then goes away. Suspecting a flange, but don't care much, I'm going to use an aftermarket for the swap.
Now, to collect next week and start doing things s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Cool!
Pull the valve cover, clean the lift oil control valve filters, and check your cams for wear on the lobes. Best to know up front what you're getting into! Also, if you do 2 oil changes in swift sucession (I.e. on the same day) you can make the inside of the engine pretty sparkly clean so long as it's been looked after.
Quote from: "JoeCool"Cool!
Pull the valve cover, clean the lift oil control valve filters, and check your cams for wear on the lobes. Best to know up front what you're getting into! Also, if you do 2 oil changes in swift sucession (I.e. on the same day) you can make the inside of the engine pretty sparkly clean so long as it's been looked after.
Thanks Joe, already on my list s:) :) s:)
Will also change seals, gaskets, lift bolts and maybe timing kit.
Quick update: Picked up the Corolla today, got thrown in for free a spare bumper, front crossmember and an engine cover which is scrap because the threads are stripped and one is snapped off. Dude was actually thinking I'm going to restore it s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
There was a rather suspicious "farting noise" on low revs and full throttle input, but doesn't seem critical. Weird part is, it wasn't existent on the previous test-drive, so wonder what changed within 5 days...Anyway, another thing for me to look into, but doesn't worry me too much.
Finally feels like I'm being serious about the 2zz conversion - always wondered why Toyota never produced 2zz MR2's, I think that engine suits the car nicely.
Quote from: "manos3003"Quick update: Picked up the Corolla today, got thrown in for free a spare bumper, front crossmember and an engine cover which is scrap because the threads are stripped and one is snapped off. Dude was actually thinking I'm going to restore it s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
There was a rather suspicious "farting noise" on low revs and full throttle input, but doesn't seem critical. Weird part is, it wasn't existent on the previous test-drive, so wonder what changed within 5 days...Anyway, another thing for me to look into, but doesn't worry me too much.
Finally feels like I'm being serious about the 2zz conversion - always wondered why Toyota never produced 2zz MR2's, I think that engine suits the car nicely.
can you advise where best to look for a donor and what did you pay ?
Quote from: "justinread72"can you advise where best to look for a donor and what did you pay ?
Spread your search as far and wide as you can. Autotrader, gumtree, classified ads, the forums for Corolla and Celica. I was after a car which had a reasonably good engine, regardless of the state of the body trim and electrical health status. I was lucky enough to find a specimen within 30 minutes from where I live for £ 800.
Your criteria may differ from mine, but don't limit yourself to one source of info for your hunt. Happy searching!
Righteyyyyy! Parts list for the swap now:
1. PPE Exhaust header (probably will end up ceramic coated)
2. Helix Stage 1 Clutch (thinking Fensport)
3. Reverse Lockout (MWR)
4. 6-speed selector shaft (MWR)
5. Engine mount (that can be provided by Rogue so I'm ok this)
6. Fidanza flyweel [?] (Will decide if I need it, don't know how much of an improvement over cost I'm getting on this)
For now, time to troubleshoot things on my 2zz and get it fighting fit! s:D :D s:D
It least with the engine mount you can collect it and save some cash!! s;-) ;-) s;-)
Quote from: "StuC"It least with the engine mount you can collect it and save some cash!! s;-) ;-) s;-)
My thoughts exactly, seems convenient. s:D :D s:D
Got widermuller's knobs, fitted them. You'll notice some paper stacked inside the slider. A more permanent solution to follow on the weekend.
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-11-04%2007.54.27-1_zpslzuhdrum.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-11-04%2007.54.27-1_zpslzuhdrum.jpg.html)
Photos from the Corolla to be uploaded soon, preferably when taken on a sunny day.
You get use a flathead screwdriver to lever apart the Y prong that the slider sits on to get a better fit a bit trial & error
Quote from: "bernie11a"You get use a flathead screwdriver to lever apart the Y prong that the slider sits on to get a better fit a bit trial & error
Thanks bernie, was thinking more on the lines of silicone or some filler material on the inside (PU?). No need to get the screwdrivers out and go all violent s:D :D s:D
Sometimes you just have to go old skool Manos! s;-) ;-) s;-)
Quote from: "StuC"Sometimes you just have to go old skool Manos! s;-) ;-) s;-)
Old skool like "use a lot of effort to do not much usually accompanied by enormous amounts of swearing"? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Got the job done didn't it? s;-) ;-) s;-)
Besides, swearing and car maintenance go together like bread and jam!!
Quote from: "StuC"Got the job done didn't it? s;-) ;-) s;-)
Besides, swearing and car maintenance go together like bread and jam!!
Agreed. Still remember the good old days trying to get the Manta's timing right to avoid scrapping the engine! Countless hours of swearing and faffing s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Manta, can I get a whooooo? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
My mate had one and it broke down half a mile from his house. He pushed it home, all 2 tonnes of it. It nearly killed him! How I laughed! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "StuC"Manta, can I get a whooooo? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
My mate had one and it broke down half a mile from his house. He pushed it home, all 2 tonnes of it. It nearly killed him! How I laughed! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Mine nearly killed me when engine blew, so I do feel his pain s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Perhaps its just a manta thing. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Perhaps we should change your name to mantoos3003 going forward. s;-) ;-) s;-)
Quote from: "StuC"Perhaps its just a manta thing. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Perhaps we should change your name to mantoos3003 going forward. s;-) ;-) s;-)
A bit too late now, I'm still alive s:D :D s:D
Behold, the donor car! s:D :D s:D
Not a show stopper, but it has the engine I need and is in reasonably good condition for 100k on the clock. Will upload more photos once I find a place to put it and start some spanner work. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-11-07%2012.13.13_zpsv8aqf8jm.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-11-07%2012.13.13_zpsv8aqf8jm.jpg.html)
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2015-11-07%2012.13.27_zps68fdja2b.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2015-11-07%2012.13.27_zps68fdja2b.jpg.html)
Another red 3 door Corolla bites the dust then!
Quote from: "JoeCool"Another red 3 door Corolla bites the dust then!
Don't think anyone will miss that colour s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Plus, if you think about it, while relieving them from their powertrain we can help keep other ones on the road. All in all for a good cause s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "manos3003"Don't think anyone will miss that colour s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Plus, if you think about it, while relieving them from their powertrain we can help keep other ones on the road. All in all for a good cause s:D :D s:D
(http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb169/WeirdNeville/MR2/2ZZ%20MR2%20Project/ba35a71f-e9e4-4148-aebe-0de7e5fdd3b6_zpswjowgydu.jpg)
Whaddayamean?! Mine looked
Lovely! /s
To be fair, my Phone did the colour no favours, but then neither did the peeling laquer or dents on every panel. Toyota have never been able to get red paint right, every MK1 MR2 in red ended up Pink.
I'm not sure, I think Corolla T-Sports are definitely dipping into the realms of the unloved. It's the wrong chassis for the engine and gearbox anyway, they simply don't fulfill the core function of the hot hatch which is great point to point handling. Hopefully a few enthusiasts will keep some nice examples and particularly the compressors on the road, but whilst they're sub £1000 for mechanically decent examples, and this swap is popular, I think their days are numbered!
Quote from: "JoeCool"Quote from: "manos3003"Don't think anyone will miss that colour s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Plus, if you think about it, while relieving them from their powertrain we can help keep other ones on the road. All in all for a good cause s:D :D s:D
(http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb169/WeirdNeville/MR2/2ZZ%20MR2%20Project/ba35a71f-e9e4-4148-aebe-0de7e5fdd3b6_zpswjowgydu.jpg)
Whaddayamean?! Mine looked Lovely! /s
To be fair, my Phone did the colour no favours, but then neither did the peeling laquer or dents on every panel. Toyota have never been able to get red paint right, every MK1 MR2 in red ended up Pink.
I'm not sure, I think Corolla T-Sports are definitely dipping into the realms of the unloved. It's the wrong chassis for the engine and gearbox anyway, they simply don't fulfill the core function of the hot hatch which is great point to point handling. Hopefully a few enthusiasts will keep some nice examples and particularly the compressors on the road, but whilst they're sub £1000 for mechanically decent examples, and this swap is popular, I think their days are numbered!
Mine has an awful paintwork, peeling all over and the crash on the front right serves it no justice.
I get why Toyota made this, as a competitor to hot hatches of that period (Golf GTi, Civic Type R, etc) and it is a lovely car, but there's three things wrong with it:
*It has 3 seats more than it should
*It has the engine in the wrong place
*It's front wheel drive
So, the 2zz is better off in my MR2 s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Looking to book Mallory Park after Feb having been egged-on by a workmate (thanks yiug412) s:P :P s:P
Looking to put the coilovers and polybushes on and baseline the car on the track.
ARBs may or may not go into the car before then, we'll see.
Better stop being lazy and get some work done then s:D :D s:D
Looks like I'll be driving the donor for a while, while the MR2 is in a nice dry garage getting ready to be awakened at spring time. Should buy me the time to do some stuff on it, as well as get to know the donor powertrain a little bit better.
I'd recommend taking the cam cover off and inspecting your cams. Mine had a scored inlet cam, and having seen the wear to the follower it wasn't long for this world. Made a noticeable ticking at idle but was fine when moving. I got a replacement inlet cam and followers for £190 delivered, brand new oem Toyota parts so no great pain, but glad to have noticed it and sorted it. Apparently it's very common in elises.
Quote from: "JoeCool"I'd recommend taking the cam cover off and inspecting your cams. Mine had a scored inlet cam, and having seen the wear to the follower it wasn't long for this world. Made a noticeable ticking at idle but was fine when moving. I got a replacement inlet cam and followers for £190 delivered, brand new oem Toyota parts so no great pain, but glad to have noticed it and sorted it. Apparently it's very common in elises.
Cheers Joe, already done that. Cams are in good health by the looks of it. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
So, after some idling during the winter, there's the following to report:
1. Rexypow console to be fitted once some leather is glued on top.
2. Replacing rear tyres as the ones on are now barely legal (after 1 year of use? s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:scared: :scared: s:scared: )
3. Polybushes will replace the tired bushes on the car
4. MeisterR coilovers
5. ARB droplinks will be replaced if needed
6. A much required wheel alignment
7. Track day in Rockingham to baseline the car before the 2zz swap in the summer (currently planned for end of Jul - beginning of Aug)
And that's all for now folks. I'll keep you posted as I go along s:D :D s:D s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Are you doing all the bushes? I'm still so undecided about polybushes. I'm hoping I can get away with part poly bushes on things like the traction rod and keep oem bushes for other bits. I read a post somewhere that Matt didn't feel the need to go all Polybushed as it wasn't necessary, and for him to say that for his car, it really does make me think.
I think you will need to replace the ARB droplinks s:) :) s:) for the price, it doesn't make sense not to when your doing the suspension s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Are you doing all the bushes? I'm still so undecided about polybushes. I'm hoping I can get away with part poly bushes on things like the traction rod and keep oem bushes for other bits. I read a post somewhere that Matt didn't feel the need to go all Polybushed as it wasn't necessary, and for him to say that for his car, it really does make me think.
I think you will need to replace the ARB droplinks s:) :) s:) for the price, it doesn't make sense not to when your doing the suspension s;) ;) s;)
That can be subjective. I do trust Matt's judgement, but I will let my own experience tell me how that actually feels. Remember, I've built and raced racers before s;) ;) s;) Having said that, a road car application is somewhat different. I will assess my car thoroughly both on track and road, to see how compliant it is and tell you guys my thoughts.
As for the ARB droplinks, it does indeed make sense. I do have a set at hand, it's just a matter of "are they still in a good condition, or do they need changing"?
Still can't fit the coilovers, polybushes not with me yet. Polybush is terrible on timekeeping, but I'll have to admit Steve G (GT4 Play, where I placed the order) is a nice enough chap.
Once they're on, I'll also replace my rear tyres (they are now barely legal, there's toe on the rear, suspecting previous alignment was done as if it was a MK2) and do a full wheel alignment. Thinking zero toe all around and maybe slight camber.
Also need to replace rear ARB droplinks, knocking noise going over bumps means they might have snapped.
Quote from: "manos3003"Still can't fit the coilovers, polybushes not with me yet. Polybush is terrible on timekeeping, but I'll have to admit Steve G (GT4 Play, where I placed the order) is a nice enough chap.
Once they're on, I'll also replace my rear tyres (they are now barely legal, there's toe on the rear, suspecting previous alignment was done as if it was a MK2) and do a full wheel alignment. Thinking zero toe all around and maybe slight camber.
Also need to replace rear ARB droplinks, knocking noise going over bumps means they might have snapped.
HI Manos
I wouldn't put zero toe on the rear this may/most likely will cause the rear wheels to toe out on acceleration which will make the car want to spin or cause lots of oversteer on power
I personally for track would put toe in on the rear of about 0.2 degrees and either zero toe on the front or some slight toe out for better turn in.
also the mr2s under cornering generate more camber on the rear so i would go for 2.5 degrees on the front camber and 2.0 degrees on the rear for a track set up
just my opinion but this is what im going to be running on my car now
cheers tommy
Quote from: "tommyzoom99"HI Manos
I wouldn't put zero toe on the rear this may/most likely will cause the rear wheels to toe out on acceleration which will make the car want to spin or cause lots of oversteer on power
I personally for track would put toe in on the rear of about 0.2 degrees and either zero toe on the front or some slight toe out for better turn in.
also the mr2s under cornering generate more camber on the rear so i would go for 2.5 degrees on the front camber and 2.0 degrees on the rear for a track set up
just my opinion but this is what I'm going to be running on my car now
cheers tommy
I'd agree with you Tommy, 2.5 front and 2.0 rear camber sounds about right to me. As for toe, I lifted my car and it seems to have toe out rather than toe in. I'll give that setup a try once I have everything on and see what's what.
Why are you going for more camber on the front than the rear?
I would agree with tommy on the 0 toe front and toe in on the rear. I'm looking at something like
-2 front -2.5 rear camber
0 toe front
around 0.2 toe in rear
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Why are you going for more camber on the front than the rear?
I would agree with tommy on the 0 toe front and toe in on the rear. I'm looking at something like
-2 front -2.5 rear camber
0 toe front
around 0.2 toe in rear
the mr2 when cornering generates more camber on the rear than the front so in turn generates more grip at the rear giving you a under steer nature to the handling this is also effected if you run staggered tyres like 205 front and 225 rear which naturally makes the car more want to under steer more.
so less camber on the rear when the car is static generates equal camber when the car is cornering give a more neutral feel to the car
now this is personal preference i prefer a slight bit of oversteer or neutral handling so its up to you how the car is set up
cheers tommy
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "tommyzoom99"HI Manos
I wouldn't put zero toe on the rear this may/most likely will cause the rear wheels to toe out on acceleration which will make the car want to spin or cause lots of oversteer on power
I personally for track would put toe in on the rear of about 0.2 degrees and either zero toe on the front or some slight toe out for better turn in.
also the mr2s under cornering generate more camber on the rear so i would go for 2.5 degrees on the front camber and 2.0 degrees on the rear for a track set up
just my opinion but this is what I'm going to be running on my car now
cheers tommy
I'd agree with you Tommy, 2.5 front and 2.0 rear camber sounds about right to me. As for toe, I lifted my car and it seems to have toe out rather than toe in. I'll give that setup a try once I have everything on and see what's what.
well toe out on the front is ok like 0.2 degrees but not on the rear i would go with toe in
its all very subjective really depending on your tyre stagger and what kind of handling characteristics you want
the set-up i said is a neutral to slight overseer set-up which works for me
cheers tommy
Quote from: "tommyzoom99"well toe out on the front is ok like 0.2 degrees but not on the rear i would go with toe in
its all very subjective really depending on your tyre stagger and what kind of handling characteristics you want
the set-up i said is a neutral to slight overseer set-up which works for me
cheers tommy
It may sound strange, but having the car slightly understeery is better to me.
Quote from: "manos3003"well toe out on the front is ok like 0.2 degrees but not on the rear i would go with toe in
its all very subjective really depending on your tyre stagger and what kind of handling characteristics you want
the set-up i said is a neutral to slight overseer set-up which works for me
cheers tommy
It may sound strange, but having the car slightly understeery is better to me.[/quote]
not strange at all buddy if thats what you like
i would go toe in front and toe in rear then, around 0.2 degrees this will also give you straight line stability but compromise the initial turn in, i would suggest standard Toyota setting for toe then as these cars are set up for understeer from the factory and if you like it to feel a bit understeery go with more camber on the rear or the same all round like 2 degrees front and back
cheers tommy
Quote from: "tommyzoom99"not strange at all buddy if thats what you like
i would go toe in front and toe in rear then, around 0.2 degrees this will also give you straight line stability but compromise the initial turn in, i would suggest standard Toyota setting for toe then as these cars are set up for understeer from the factory and if you like it to feel a bit understeery go with more camber on the rear or the same all round like 2 degrees front and back
cheers tommy
Heh, no need to go crazy. Neutral to slight understeer is fine. s:) :) s:)
Bushes are now with me.
1. Need to swap my rear tyres ASAP (no tread left), tomorrow.
2. Bushes, coilovers, drop-links etc next Monday.
3. Alignment on next Wednesday.
Should have a fully functional and healthy car ready for its MOT s:D :D s:D
Be prepared to have a old school fight with. Rusty bolts doing the bushes doing mine and it's a very time consuming. ,
Can wait to see how it goes 2zz power as well will be awesome
How have you worked out the rear wheels get more negative camber than the front in roll?
My understanding is that the camber change is almost identical front to rear and that once you have factored in the camber gain on the front outside wheel arising from the caster angle, you actually get more negative camber gain on the front than on the back through a corner.
Quote from: "lamcote"How have you worked out the rear wheels get more negative camber than the front in roll?
My understanding is that the camber change is almost identical front to rear and that once you have factored in the camber gain on the front outside wheel arising from the caster angle, you actually get more negative camber gain on the front than on the back through a corner.
When you have no shocks on your car get a inclinometer gauge put it on your hub and raise and lower the hub like when the suspension is in compressing the rear gains far more camber than the front
if you search the topic especially on spyderchat there is much discussion on there about it from far more knowledgeable people than me
im just going off what i have measured and what i have learnt from other people
cheers tommy
Can you let me know how to do this, I would like to try it, surely if you take the shocks off, the hub will just hang down off the bottom mount won't it? How can you measure anything from that?
Quote from: "tommyzoom99"Quote from: "lamcote"How have you worked out the rear wheels get more negative camber than the front in roll?
My understanding is that the camber change is almost identical front to rear and that once you have factored in the camber gain on the front outside wheel arising from the caster angle, you actually get more negative camber gain on the front than on the back through a corner.
When you have no shocks on your car get a inclinometer gauge put it on your hub and raise and lower the hub like when the suspension is in compressing the rear gains far more camber than the front
if you search the topic especially on spyderchat there is much discussion on there about it from far more knowledgeable people than me
I'm just going off what i have measured and what i have learnt from other people
cheers tommy
But that doesn't compensate for weight balance during cornering it just shows the effect while emitting a force, not what force is acting when cornering. As said, I'm going for more negative camber as that's what I have used before, I find it gives a balanced/slight oversteer feel. But its very interesting to see that a few people are going more negative up front.
I know they are different cars, and will probably react different as they don't have McPherson struts, but elise, boxster, 4c all have more negative camber on the rear.
Yes they do, I think that is to promote nice safe understeer for the typical user. I would say most track orientated cars have more negative camber on the front as this maximises front cornering grip and less camber at the back helps rear drive traction too.
Quote from: "justinread72"Be prepared to have a old school fight with. Rusty bolts doing the bushes doing mine and it's a very time consuming. ,
Can wait to see how it goes 2zz power as well will be awesome
Already ahead of you, wih loads of penetrating fluid at hand s;) ;) s;) To be fair, for a 00MY it has relatively little rust. A mate of mine as a 02.5MY and it's rusty as a shipwreck underneath!
Yeah, looking forward to 2zz-ing it in August s:D :D s:D exciting times ahead s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Thanks for the info about Spyderchat :
m http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showth ... 546?page=1 (http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?49546-Suspension-Analysis-Pt-2#/forumsite/21030/topics/49546?page=1) m
This seems to show camber gain front to rear is very similar but there is slightly less gain on the rear than the front in bump from starting ride height.
i was also looking at this which shows some of the curves
m http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showth ... nch-racing (http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?46116-Let-s-finally-get-some-tech-stuff-(bench-racing) m )-going-on-in-here%5D
which i think shows the rear gaining more camber, unless im interpreting the data wrong
cheers tommy
Useful stuff chaps! Thanks!
Yes I reckon it does too. I guess a lot of this might depend on how accurately the guys producing the curves have measured the various suspension arns/mount points etc as that will have a significant impact on their results and may explain conflicting data.
I have measured all my suspension up on my car because I am looking at doing some calculations for roll centres, camber change etc. Last week I bought a new rear subframe so could take measurements directly off it and I discovered my previous on car measurements were quite a bit out!!
Just a point on toe angle. I prefer a little toe in for the front of a road car where you tend to use more of the steering lock. On a track car you might want zero or toe out because you don't get many tight corners.
This is because the car has ackerman steering which means the wheels go progressively more toe out as you turn the wheels towards full lock, so starting with static toe out and turning to full lock means you finish up with an awful lot of toe out.
yes im sure your right iamcote there are lots of variables regarding the data it all has to be taken with a pinch of salt i think. but like you said before, most track orientated cars have more negative camber on the front as this maximises front cornering grip and less camber at the back helps rear drive traction too, and all the track lads on spyderchat all seem to run more camber on the front.
and with the data i have seen for camber curves it seem the right way to go with slightly less camber on the rear, interesting point on the toe regarding the steering maybe 0 toe on the front is the way to go.
sorry for hijacking your thread manos s:flame: :flame: s:flame:
cheers tommy
Useful info and data, so no worries. I'll crunch through on the weekend and see what I make of it.
My rear tyres (now swapped) for your entertainment. Tracking is way off, getting sorted next week.
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2016-03-02%2016.43.54_zpshgaqtazw.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2016-03-02%2016.43.54_zpshgaqtazw.jpg.html)
Deffo laughable Manos.
Might not have been so funny on a frozen snowy road. s:-( :-( s:-(
Quote from: "StuC"Deffo laughable Manos.
Might not have been so funny on a frozen snowy road. s:-( :-( s:-(
Can't believe the tyres got worn so quickly, I only changed them 1 year ago and done 10k miles on them. I will ask for a snapshot of the current setup before we do the alignment, my suspicion lies with camber in the rear, based on the wear pattern. It's even on both tyres, so probably not something induced by me.
The shiny blue go-kart should be with me tomorrow, with coilovers and polybushes on s:D :D s:D
Drop-links are past saving (too much rust) so those done too.
Next, alignment. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Me happy! s:D :D s:D
s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: woo
CAR FEELS AWESOME! s:D :D s:D
On the softest setup it feels ok, if anything I'll kick it up a click or two.
Oh, and whoever said polybushes are not worth it, maybe they need to reconsider. It is a bit noisy over bumps, but the overall feel now is just too good to be true s:D :D s:D
I'll need to live with it for a couple of weeks and get back to you guys with a more detailed assessment, both on road and track. I probably know what I'm going to say, but I'll try not to be biased.
ARB droplinks. They definitely needed swapping.
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2016-03-08%2021.29.13-1_zpspb3kxz4o.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2016-03-08%2021.29.13-1_zpspb3kxz4o.jpg.html)
Good thing I put polybushes on s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
(http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af187/manos3003/MR2%20Build/2016-03-08%2021.30.57_zpsiopxttx3.jpg) (http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/manos3003/media/MR2%20Build/2016-03-08%2021.30.57_zpsiopxttx3.jpg.html)
What tyres do you have manos?
Maybe yours are softer than those that have tried polybushes.
Quote from: "1979scotte"What tyres do you have manos?
Maybe yours are softer than those that have tried polybushes.
Goodyear Efficient grip, 185 front, 205 rear
Got a set of spare alloys to put on some AD08-R, but don't expect massive difference.
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "1979scotte"What tyres do you have manos?
Maybe yours are softer than those that have tried polybushes.
Goodyear Efficient grip, 185 front, 205 rear
Got a set of spare alloys to put on some AD08-R, but don't expect massive difference.
You dont?
Most people on here think theyre aewsome.
Efficent grip sound like economy biased tyres to me.
I would be getting the AD08R on pronto.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "1979scotte"What tyres do you have manos?
Maybe yours are softer than those that have tried polybushes.
Goodyear Efficient grip, 185 front, 205 rear
Got a set of spare alloys to put on some AD08-R, but don't expect massive difference.
You dont?
Most people on here think theyre aewsome.
Efficent grip sound like economy biased tyres to me.
I would be getting the AD08R on pronto.
Partly incomplete phrasing from me, partly misinterpreted from you. Was talking about the change in bush behaviour. AD08 are awesome.
And indeed, the Efficient grips are more road-focused. To be fair, I'd be surprised if I got anything close or above 30mpg s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
They seem to offer decent levels of grip on the road, don't think I'd enjoy pushing them on the track, but for now, the oily bits are more of a priority than dressing up the spare wheels and facelifting my car.
By the by, next post will be updating my original dash and updating with new decisions. Not going for Whiteline ARB, they probably will make the car a bit snappy for my taste.
1. Exterior/Paint
a. Facelift (bumpers, headlamps) - parts obtained, work pending
[strike:3fzj8xo4]b. HZ Performance spoiler - painted, fitted, brake light soldered on 3rd brake light[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
c. Black Pack paint scheme (hardtop, side vents, badges, front and rear grille in gloss black) - 50% complete
d. Discreet rear diffuser? - Research
2. Interior Trim
[strike:3fzj8xo4]a. Widermuller's knobs - Fitted[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
b. TTE Chrome pack - Pending
[strike:3fzj8xo4]c. Armrest- Fitted, thanks James s:D :D s:D (monkeysmr2)[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
d. Some leather reclining buckets - Pending
[strike:3fzj8xo4]e. Clear courtesy light cluster - Fitted
f. LED interior lighting - Fitted
g. Short Shifter- Fitted[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
h. Rexypow centre console- Wrapped in leather, to be fitted
3. Powertrain
a. 2zz-ge + 6 speed gearbox - Planning
b. LSD adaptation - Planning, also needs new bearings
c. Upgraded sump - Pending
d. Engine mount - Rogue will supply their own
[strike:3fzj8xo4]e. CV joints replacement? no need, inspection showed they're healthy[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
f. Cooling (for sure an oil cooler) - Pending
g. Exhaust Zorstec - Pending
h. Air intake (Research)
4. Chassis
[strike:3fzj8xo4]a. X-brace - Fitted
b. MeisterR Coilovers - Fitted[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
c. EBC Discs - Planned
d. Yellowstuff pads - Planned
[strike:3fzj8xo4]e. Polybush kit - Fitted[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
f. ARB replacement - To powdercoat existing set and keep
5. Electrical
[strike:3fzj8xo4]a. New head unit for phone connectivity - Fitted[/strike:3fzj8xo4]
b. HID headlamp kit - Fitted Although I'll go for a new set for my FL headlamps
c. Re-route window disable switch for DRL - Planned
d. Remove aerial and blank rear right quarter - Planned
Right, slow progress for now. Corolla is non-starter, as not moved for some time. Charged up the battery, fuelling, but no fire. Will have a go at the starter motor when I get a second or two to look into it.
Good news and bad news.
Good news:
Passed MOT, with flying colours I might add. First time it hasn't had advisories in a while. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Bad news:
I noticed some weeping from the left halfshaft which then escalated to an ABS warning light a couple of days after MOT. Suspecting a seal or something.
Thinking, since I'm going for a more powerful engine to get these (http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=43_67_157&products_id=2203) or just refurb mine?
Thoughts, anyone?
Quote from: "manos3003"Good news and bad news.
Good news:
Passed MOT, with flying colours I might add. First time it hasn't had advisories in a while. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Bad news:
I noticed some weeping from the left halfshaft which then escalated to an ABS warning light a couple of days after MOT. Suspecting a seal or something.
Thinking, since I'm going for a more powerful engine to get these (http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=43_67_157&products_id=2203) or just refurb mine?
Thoughts, anyone?
Scrap previous idea, either rebuild mine or get a good set of reconditioned FL ones and that should be more than enough.
Updates as I progress s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
So, quick impulsive decision bought me a reclining bucket seat (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005BP6GWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) s:D :D s:D
It was on offer on Amazon at £58 (normally around £180)
I'll need the bracket for it but it's nothing Rogue can't provide if I'm too lazy to make one myself! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
So, my car has decided it's time for the swap without my concurrence. Clutch started slipping on WOT a couple days ago. I've already bought a Helix Stage 1 for the 6-speed, so this will be done on the swap.
New ABS rings from Toyota for my halfshafts too, along with a CV boot kit.
Swap work starts straight after holidays, so stay tuned for more s:) :) s:)
Been a while, now starting the swap very soon, so an update on things so far.
1. Exterior/Paint
a. [strike:2sgli8x3]Facelift (bumpers, headlamps) - fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
b. [strike:2sgli8x3]HZ Performance spoiler - painted, fitted, brake light soldered on 3rd brake light[/strike:2sgli8x3]
c. [strike:2sgli8x3]Black Pack paint scheme (hardtop, side vents, badges, front and rear grille in gloss black) - complete[/strike:2sgli8x3]
d. Discreet rear diffuser? - Research
2. Interior Trim
a. [strike:2sgli8x3]Widermuller's knobs - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
b. TTE Chrome pack - Pending
c. [strike:2sgli8x3]Armrest- Fitted, thanks James s:D :D s:D (monkeysmr2)[/strike:2sgli8x3]
d. Some leather reclining buckets - Pending
e. [strike:2sgli8x3]Clear courtesy light cluster - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
f. [strike:2sgli8x3]LED interior lighting - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
g. [strike:2sgli8x3]Short Shifter- Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
h. [strike:2sgli8x3]Rexypow centre console- Wrapped in leather,fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
3. Powertrain
a. 2zz-ge + 6 speed gearbox - Planning
b. LSD adaptation - Planning, also needs new bearings
c. Upgraded sump - Pending
d. Engine mount - Rogue will supply their own
e. CV joints replacement? no need, inspection showed they're healthy
f. Cooling (for sure an oil cooler) - Pending
g. Celica Manifold, Cobra backbox - Pending
h. Air intake: Custom pipe with MAF housing and CDA cone - Pending
4. Chassis
a. [strike:2sgli8x3]X-brace - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
b. [strike:2sgli8x3]MeisterR Coilovers - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
c. [strike:2sgli8x3]MTEC Discs - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
d. [strike:2sgli8x3]Yellowstuff pads - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
e. [strike:2sgli8x3]Polybush kit - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
f. ARB replacement - To powdercoat existing set and keep
5. Electrical
a. [strike:2sgli8x3]New head unit for phone connectivity - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
b. [strike:2sgli8x3]Brighter bulbs for my FL headlamps - Fitted[/strike:2sgli8x3]
c. Re-route window disable switch for DRL - Planned
d. Remove aerial and blank rear right quarter - Planned
Looking good. Engine-wise, I've replaced pretty much everything on the 2zz (rocker cover gasket, lift bolts, water pump, oil pump, timing kit). I've left head gasket for now, as I'll be digging into the head in a year's time or so, when I upgrade cams.
Photos of the build will be posted soon s:D :D s:D
How are you finding the polybushs?
Quote from: "Topdownman"How are you finding the polybushs?
Been living with them for 6 months now, I'd say the car's reasonably road-compliant. Not too stiff or unpleasant in any way.
Thats good to hear as its something I am thinking about at some stage (well, either polys or new rubber ones but polys can be had in a nice easy set!).
Quote from: "Topdownman"Thats good to hear as its something I am thinking about at some stage (well, either polys or new rubber ones but polys can be had in a nice easy set!).
Yeah, polys are easy to find as a set. I'd recommend you inspect all your bushes before changing and see whether ancillaries need refurbing or swapping. It'll be a good time to do it as you're already gutting these areas to remove the old bushes. s:) :) s:)
Hey Manos,
Did you ever get round to fitting your FL headlights with the MIkeV adapters along with the kit from the retrofit resource you mentioned a while back? Would be great to see pics of these things in action as I've got myself some FL headlights and the MikeV adapters..
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Hey Manos,
Did you ever get round to fitting your FL headlights with the MIkeV adapters along with the kit from the retrofit resource you mentioned a while back? Would be great to see pics of these things in action as I've got myself some FL headlights and the MikeV adapters..
Hiya,
Yes indeed and it's pretty straightforward, as they're plug n play. I'll upload pics during the weekend.
Cheers,
Manos
It's about 2zz swap time folks! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Got the Corolla to run, the starter motor needed replacing with an OEM spec Denso one. Ran a compression test and the results were better than expected, so all is well! s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D
Stripping the donor has commenced! Loads of swearing over rusty bolts, as expected. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
There'll be parts available for selling on the Corolla forum, whilst the BIW with all chassis bits will pay a visit to the scrappie very soon!
Engine is out for a good blast, major ancillaries will be refreshed including:
- OEM Water pump - changed
- OEM Oil pump with a better spec gear from Eliseparts - awaiting the gear
- Rocker cover gasket - done
- Lift bolts - done (cams seem in a good nick) s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
- Timing chain (the dude who supplied me the water and oil pump sent a Zuiko timing kit, but thinking to get an OSK one, as that was the preferred supplier for Toyota)
- Oil and Fuel Filters - done
- Clutch - done
On other bits:
- thinking of re-using the 1zz sump as it's better baffled for now, get a Morosso later
- Either find a C66 from an FL or fit a longer 6th on the C60
- 2zz flywheel has been sent off for machining, let's see how light it'll get s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
- Stock C60 or C66 reverse blockout will be used, not MWR
So, a good chunk of oily work is ahead.
Then off to Rogue to finish what I'll leave off, potentially wiring loom, connecting the Power FC and getting a cat pipe for my current exhaust solution in place.
Hey Manos, that's all sounding pretty exciting, glad the corolla engine seems good. My 2zz is awesome, just steer clear of the che exhaust header, the only people who seem underwhelmed by the conversion have used that exhaust. Looking forward to seeing progress, I need to get mine looking a bit sharper as it's very tatty...
Hi mate, currently pondering on getting the PPE from MWR as it's on sale, or a Zero. I'll eventually design my own, with the intention of allowing people to copy it if I see it's good. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
As for the engine, I think it's best practice to do as good a service/overhaul as you possibly can prior to transplant. It gives you a good reference point when it comes to maintenance.
I'd recommend you do a compression test and take it from there. It's a fairly bulletproof engine, so numbers shouldn't be too shabby. s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "jonty"Hey Manos, that's all sounding pretty exciting, glad the corolla engine seems good. My 2zz is awesome, just steer clear of the che exhaust header, the only people who seem underwhelmed by the conversion have used that exhaust. Looking forward to seeing progress, I need to get mine looking a bit sharper as it's very tatty...
Totally agree, it's so much easier to resolve when out the car! I did a full bearing and seal replacement before fitting mine, but didn't do a comp check, but it runs sweet as you like. Need to do done standard maintenance stuff though, it's not getting too much love on the daily driver duties currently!
Oh, and the exhaust sounds a great idea! Not sure if there's much on it with zero or PPE, both seem well made, zero is stainless though, PPE is just coated mild I think?
You are correct, I was thinking of improving PPE on my own design, with a bit more gentle angles on the primaries; reduces pressure drop, every little helps. s:) :) s:) Obviously, T304 or better grade is what I'd go for.
Zero is indeed T304, so tempted to go with it, as it'll sell easier later if I decide to part ways with it.
Quote from: "jonty"Oh, and the exhaust sounds a great idea! Not sure if there's much on it with zero or PPE, both seem well made, zero is stainless though, PPE is just coated mild I think?
Yeah, I somewhat neglected the 1zz as I was using it for daily and ended up running minus 1 cylinder due to misfires. I know what it is, just can't be bothered to fix an engine I'll be dumping soon.
Might make a coffee table out of the crankshaft s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "jonty"Totally agree, it's so much easier to resolve when out the car! I did a full bearing and seal replacement before fitting mine, but didn't do a comp check, but it runs sweet as you like. Need to do done standard maintenance stuff though, it's not getting too much love on the daily driver duties currently!
Yeah mine needs love, but I'm terrible for not getting stuff done... Too many other projects!I think I'll end up paying someone to do some of the jobs and stop trying to fool myself that I'll get around to it...
Surely oil, plugs and filters are a quick job? Shame we don't get any good weather, love working outdoors on a sunny day. Now, it's all done in a single garage with TONS of LEDs and some really tall axle stands.
Quote from: "jonty"Yeah mine needs love, but I'm terrible for not getting stuff done... Too many other projects!I think I'll end up paying someone to do some of the jobs and stop trying to fool myself that I'll get around to it...
Yes but I have a 1yr old and a workshop where I'm working on carbon stuff, as well as a wife who has hobbies of her own, so time is at a premium... But yes it is simple and i should do it!!
The carbon stuff thingy sounds interesting s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "jonty"Yes but I have a 1yr old and a workshop where I'm working on carbon stuff, as well as a wife who has hobbies of her own, so time is at a premium... But yes it is simple and i should do it!!
Yeah I'll have to share some stuff some time, the problem with 2 of the cars we have, 200sx and the mr2 is that the prices are so low you can't charge sensible money -for instance we've made prepreg door cards for the 200sx that I'd like to retail around £1500, which is half a car (or a compete mr2!). Currently working on s2000 stuff which is my brother's daily, but want to make parts for big boy stuff like Porsche gt3 and Gtr etc in the future...
You have aroused my...curiosity s:D :D s:D
Good thing I'm a ChemEng and I've played with all sorts of composites in uni. Might do some carbon stuff for my car if I have time and appetite at some point. We'll see.
Quote from: "jonty"Yeah I'll have to share some stuff some time, the problem with 2 of the cars we have, 200sx and the mr2 is that the prices are so low you can't charge sensible money -for instance we've made prepreg door cards for the 200sx that I'd like to retail around £1500, which is half a car (or a compete mr2!). Currently working on s2000 stuff which is my brother's daily, but want to make parts for big boy stuff like Porsche gt3 and Gtr etc in the future...
Quote from: "manos3003"You are correct, I was thinking of improving PPE on my own design, with a bit more gentle angles on the primaries; reduces pressure drop, every little helps. s:) :) s:) Obviously, T304 or better grade is what I'd go for.
Zero is indeed T304, so tempted to go with it, as it'll sell easier later if I decide to part ways with it.
Quote from: "jonty"Oh, and the exhaust sounds a great idea! Not sure if there's much on it with zero or PPE, both seem well made, zero is stainless though, PPE is just coated mild I think?
I'm sure there was a guy on the UK Facebook page selling a 2zz Zero manifold for £250?
Mark Burton, known as Meeerk here. Yes, I'll be contacting him about it.
Quote from: "PhilMC"Quote from: "manos3003"You are correct, I was thinking of improving PPE on my own design, with a bit more gentle angles on the primaries; reduces pressure drop, every little helps. s:) :) s:) Obviously, T304 or better grade is what I'd go for.
Zero is indeed T304, so tempted to go with it, as it'll sell easier later if I decide to part ways with it.
Quote from: "jonty"Oh, and the exhaust sounds a great idea! Not sure if there's much on it with zero or PPE, both seem well made, zero is stainless though, PPE is just coated mild I think?
I'm sure there was a guy on the UK Facebook page selling a 2zz Zero manifold for £250?
Yep, the very same one LOL. I wasn't sure you were allowed to mention his name on here......a bit like "Jehovah" in Life of Brian. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "manos3003"Mark Burton, known as Meeerk here. Yes, I'll be contacting him about it.
Quote from: "PhilMC"Quote from: "manos3003"You are correct, I was thinking of improving PPE on my own design, with a bit more gentle angles on the primaries; reduces pressure drop, every little helps. s:) :) s:) Obviously, T304 or better grade is what I'd go for.
Zero is indeed T304, so tempted to go with it, as it'll sell easier later if I decide to part ways with it.
I'm sure there was a guy on the UK Facebook page selling a 2zz Zero manifold for £250?
I don't think there's much rigidity on that, since he decided to leave for his own reasons. Anyway, let us not digress s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Edit: Mark's zero manifold is now MINE s:D :D s:D I'll be getting it when he gets it off his car s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Quote from: "PhilMC"Yep, the very same one LOL. I wasn't sure you were allowed to mention his name on here......a bit like "Jehovah" in Life of Brian. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "manos3003"Mark Burton, known as Meeerk here. Yes, I'll be contacting him about it.
Quote from: "PhilMC"I'm sure there was a guy on the UK Facebook page selling a 2zz Zero manifold for £250?
Righty, good news and bad news.
BAD NEWS
The turbo on the daily just gave up so I'll have to take the 2 out of hibernation and figure out how to fix it and how much it'll cost s:( :( s:(
GOOD NEWS
The uprated oil pump gear arrived in the post s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "manos3003"Edit: Mark's zero manifold is now MINE s:D :D s:D I'll be getting it when he gets it off his car s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Nice one Manos.
Hope you get your daily fixed soon mate s:( :( s:( .
Thanks Phil! By the looks of things I might have to cough up around £300 to refurb my turbo, plus whatever else may be needed (e.g. blasting the sump, a good flush in the engine).
So that'll set me back just a bit. s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "PhilMC"Nice one Manos.
Hope you get your daily fixed soon mate s:( :( s:( .
Righty, update! s:D :D s:D
Corolla has been relieved of its engine and gearbox and the whole lump is off with the well known T Sport breaker.
I've already stripped the gearbox off its open diff to make room for my Torsen and the 2ZZ is on the stand s:) :) s:)
Tomorrow the AA will load the MR2 ready for the garage so the work will commence next weekend s:D :D s:D
A quarter of the way there, all looking good s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Good job manos keep us updated!
Thanks matey, will do.
Some pics from the man-cave I'm working in. Whoever said it's impossible to be done in a narrow single garage with no electricity, well, they haven't met me yet s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
had to cut the exhaust off, not enough space for a breaker bar to undo everything (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzGUcIokPWryTk5HRzMwaFZJUlk) Exhaust issue was sorted once off the Corolla.
engine finally out (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzGUcIokPWryWTBWNmoxeHNOc3M)
Corolla leaving the garage (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzGUcIokPWryMG5vRlMydW9HV2s)
some space management required (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzGUcIokPWrya2pmX25vcWtVdG8) s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
all work so far has been done with a Halfords advanced socket set, a breaker bar, a pair of rechargeable LED flood lights of 800 lumens intensity, a heavy duty engine crane and some reaaaaaally tall axle stands s8) 8) s8)
and a dremel...don't forget the dremel s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Look who's entered the cave (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzGUcIokPWryLU9zdDVwY1d4RDA) s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Next step: Valve clearances, gaskets, seals, lift bolts, chain etc...
Once the engine is dressed the swap commences s:D :D s:D
New Denso starter motor picked up today, as there was a suspicion that the original was knackered. Eurocarparts sell it for something like £80 with all discount codes applied.
Unsure if I could've found it for cheaper, but it's still the OEM part so it should do the trick s:) :) s:)
Gentle reminder to get cracking on that 2zz s:) :) s:) haha.
And pics in this thread
Agreed Patrick, thread started 27 July 2015
It's going low and slow chaps, can only work on weekends in a single garage with no electricity. Social calendar a bit busy this month as well, which doesn't make things easier.
Will update pics when I have something important to share.
Plan it to finish the big bulk end of this month, so I can then finish off air intake and resolve any potential issues s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "manos3003"Social calendar
What is this ^^^ please?
Sleep => Drive=> Work=> Drive=> Work=> Sleep
How do you have time for anything else, or is that just me?!
Quote from: "StuC"What is this ^^^ please?
Sleep => Drive=> Work=> Drive=> Work=> Sleep
How do you have time for anything else, or is that just me?!
It's just you and you're a lucky one.
I also have uni modules for the MSc, travelling home to see family, other events planned by the "higher management" - can't say no to those s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
It is really not just me! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I am sure you will get there soon enough fella. s:-D :-D s:-D
Quote from: "StuC"It is really not just me! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I am sure you will get there soon enough fella. s:-D :-D s:-D
Engine work is familiar to me, I've rebuilt an interference engine before.
Gearbox and wiring loom I'm not looking forward to, but I shall roll up my sleeves and carry on!
Itching to drive the little thing, it's been a little while since I last sat behind the wheel s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Updates you requested. We listened s:D :D s:D
Tadaaaaaaa
[attachment=2:188h48v3] ia2 IMAG1531-1.jpg ia2 [/attachment:188h48v3]
Engine ready to get a good clean for a refresh.
I remember when putting on the stand a few weeks back I had a look at the clutch, as previous owner said he'd just changed it.
[attachment=1:188h48v3] ia1 IMAG1534.jpg ia1 [/attachment:188h48v3]
[attachment=0:188h48v3] ia0 IMAG1536.jpg ia0 [/attachment:188h48v3]
Yeah, right... s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
More pics soon to detail the refresh process, what was changed and why, how I deleted the PS and A/C pump etc...
Exciting times people s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Yesterday I had James (monkeysmr2) visit me to relieve me from my 1zz exhaust manifold. Now with the exhaust out the way there's plenty of room in the back to do stuff s:D :D s:D
One thing discovered: The pre-cat failure which killed my 1zz completely gutted my manifold s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I'll need to take bumper off, rear crashbar off and start engine-out soon s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
And here's pictures of the 2zz being stripped for valve clearances, gaskets, seals and timing set. Chain was in good condition, so if it ain't broke don't do nothing s:lol: :lol: s:lol: I only changed tensioner, just in case. Lift bolts seemed in quite a reasonable condition too, no scoring on the cams either. I think I was lucky with this s:D :D s:D Anyway, I would've noticed something's wrong for the 1500 miles I put in the car prior to stripping. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
[attachment=0:9x7tvtoj] ia0 IMAG1547-1.jpg ia0 [/attachment:9x7tvtoj]
[attachment=1:9x7tvtoj] ia1 IMAG1542-1.jpg ia1 [/attachment:9x7tvtoj]
[attachment=2:9x7tvtoj] ia2 IMAG1541-1.jpg ia2 [/attachment:9x7tvtoj]
Some Sunday back yard job today. Really pleased with the finish, albeit not professional at all.
Primed after some real serious pressure washing and degreasing
[attachment=1:2i2w4x8f] ia1 IMAG1548-1.jpg ia1 [/attachment:2i2w4x8f]
Finally painted
[attachment=0:2i2w4x8f] ia0 IMAG1550-1.jpg ia0 [/attachment:2i2w4x8f]
s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Looks good!
Did you use high temp paint?
Quote from: "MilesH"Looks good!
Did you use high temp paint?
Primer was high temp, paint was the normal Toyota red 3E5, with a glossy clear coat.
Rocker cover can be ok with normal paint, just needs refreshing in a few years or so. By that time, I'll be dropping the engine again for a refresh and/or supercharging s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "MilesH"Looks good!
Did you use high temp paint?
Primer was high temp, paint was the normal Toyota red 3E5, with a glossy clear coat.
Rocker cover can be ok with normal paint, just needs refreshing in a few years or so. By that time, I'll be dropping the engine again for a refresh and/or supercharging s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Thanks
Quote from: "MilesH"Thanks
Planning to do your rocker cover as well?
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "MilesH"Thanks
Planning to do your rocker cover as well?
Probably, nearing the end of the build so might bling it up a bit! s:) :) s:)
Sounds like a good plan. I recommend using a pressure washer and some degreaser to clean the surface before priming. Mine was way too filthy to start applying paint
Here's the almost finished product s:D :D s:D
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Need to change oil pump (with billet gear), sump, aux belt and alternator. Oh and the dipstick conversion, let's not forget that s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Oil pump gear was changed, although quite a pain to do so. I'm thinking to write a how-to for reference, so that no one else has to go through the same.
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Exhaust has been removed from the car, as well as airbox and main electrical connections have also been undone. Next is fluids drain (engine oil, trans oil, coolant), driveshafts, shifter and throttle cables disconnection.
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Getting there s:D :D s:D
PS: If anybody's after some heatshields, do shout. I'll keep them for as long as I can store them in the garage s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Fluids have been drained and driveshafts have been disconnected. Tomorrow I undo the few remaining connections and throttle and shifter cables.
On the other hand, I think I got to the bottom of my handbrake issue: sticky calipers!
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They're now stripped and off for vapour blasting. I have purchased a refurb kit from brakeparts.co.uk. Brand is Budweg, Danish I think. Anyone has any useful feedback on them?
Today I got my flywheel back s:D :D s:D
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Resurfaced, cleaned and balanced. I'd rather keep the stock, a 2zz with the Fidanza isn't something I fancy, I want to keep the car easier to drive.
Diff swap completed, using the Toyota manual and the help of a friend to re-assemble. All I need to do is fit the shifter shaft when it arrives from Greece and the new reverse blockout, compliments of headcase.
Next on the list, is wiring loom and once all is assembled, preferrably prior to 30th of June (exhaust fitment date), I'll do my first key-on and ignition to see if everything is ok. s:) :) s:) s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
On other news, I've just bought a K20 for an absolute steal. Time for another project next year then s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "manos3003"Diff swap completed, using the Toyota manual and the help of a friend to re-assemble. All I need to do is fit the shifter shaft when it arrives from Greece and the new reverse blockout, compliments of headcase.
Next on the list, is wiring loom and once all is assembled, preferrably prior to 30th of June (exhaust fitment date), I'll do my first key-on and ignition to see if everything is ok. s:) :) s:) s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
On other news, I've just bought a K20 for an absolute steal. Time for another project next year then s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
K20 you say?? Would be interested to know what N/A driveability comparisons are between a 2zz and K20..
Quote from: "jvanzyl"K20 you say?? Would be interested to know what N/A driveability comparisons are between a 2zz and K20..
I've sat shotgun in a mate's back home who's done his own. It's absolutely insane! Barely recommended for everyday use, but it's tons of fun! s:D :D s:D
To add to the above statement, a K20 is more torquey mid-range rpm, whilst still maintaining that kick you get from VVL functionality (whether that's called VVTL-i, VTEC etc). So a K20 MR2 will be more suitable for track use, as driveability is supposed to be better with more mid-range torque.
It'd take some really clever calibration engineer to replicate that response profile on the 2zz. I might give it a go when I swap my JDM Celica ECU for the Apexi I have and give it a go at mapping s:D :D s:D
Nice :-) :-) :-) Soooo more track focused than the 2ZZ? That's quite a fair bit then...
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Nice :-) :-) :-) Soooo more track focused than the 2ZZ? That's quite a fair bit then...
Yes, the plan for the 2zz is to go one final big trip back home, so I can enjoy some top down driving where it's always sunny s:) :) s:)
The K20 will be track orientated, hoping to maintain some reasonable levels of comfort for road use too s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Quote from: "manos3003"They're now stripped and off for vapour blasting. I have purchased a refurb kit from brakeparts.co.uk. Brand is Budweg, Danish I think. Anyone has any useful feedback on them?
I've got budweg calipers, they seem to do the job s:) :) s:)
I toyed with buying the refurb kit as they didn't want the old ones back, but I since found out there's nothing wrong with the old ones. It was me!
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Quote from: "manos3003"Diff swap completed, using the Toyota manual and the help of a friend to re-assemble. All I need to do is fit the shifter shaft when it arrives from Greece and the new reverse blockout, compliments of headcase.
Next on the list, is wiring loom and once all is assembled, preferrably prior to 30th of June (exhaust fitment date), I'll do my first key-on and ignition to see if everything is ok. s:) :) s:) s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
On other news, I've just bought a K20 for an absolute steal. Time for another project next year then s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
K20 you say?? Would be interested to know what N/A driveability comparisons are between a 2zz and K20..
Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "MilesH"Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course s:) :) s:)
That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "MilesH"Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course s:) :) s:)
That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story s:) :) s:)
Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and REmapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20 s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "MilesH"Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "MilesH"Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course s:) :) s:)
That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story s:) :) s:)
Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and remapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20 s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "MilesH"Quote from: "MilesH"Quote from: "manos3003"That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story s:) :) s:)
Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and remapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20 s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "MilesH"Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and remapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20 s:) :) s:)
Again, I agree, we can discuss the why for hours s:D :D s:D
Back on the 2zz then, I'll post some pics soon s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Time for an overdue update.
Yesterday started off a bit late, around 17:00.
Some basic prep work, like clearing space and moving the car outside so I can see better, as well as raise it evenly on stands and start undoing some connections.
Troubles with the engine dropping in a somewhat weird position meant the shifter cables had to be sacrificed, as there was no access from any possible angle to remove them. In hindsight, perhaps it would've been easier while the engine was still supported by the mounts.
Tip: When dropping the engine, make sure you undo the mounts in the following order: Front, Back, Left, Right.
End result looks something like this:
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I noticed I left the garage around 23:00 when all was done s:shock: :shock: s:shock: I guess when pulling a one-man show it takes considerably longer. s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Time to send the blown engine off to the scrappy this week and see if I can send the gearbox without LSD to a good home (avoiding scrappy). Wiring loom probably will be finished this week, so that means I'll be ready to assemble next weekend if all goes well s:) :) s:)
Interesting revelations about my calipers.
Went to Steve (D1 Customs) today to see what I'm missing.
Turns out the caliper that was sticking had been refurbed before, not to a great standard. Steve said I'm lucky I didn't have any brake failure so far s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
The combined efforts of Steve and me got the rear ones sorted and managed to get the pistons out the front ones, as my air compressor wasn't able to seal everything properly to blow enough air to push the pistons out.
Fun fact No1: We both agreed that yellow isn't a great colour ( expecting StuC to jump on this s:P :P s:P )
Fun fact No2: I ran into our very own jinxedkitten, dropping off a yellow MR2 with a sick engine and a flimsy bridge mount s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Back on to regular 2zz news.
Today, shifter cables are to be removed awaiting new ones to come in. Might write a how to about this, don't want to see anyone else suffering the same.
Wiring loom and gearbox assembly are also in this weekend's list. Let's see what we manage then s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "manos3003"Interesting revelations about my calipers.
Went to Steve (D1 Customs) today to see what I'm missing.
Turns out the caliper that was sticking had been refurbed before, not to a great standard. Steve said I'm lucky I didn't have any brake failure so far s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
The combined efforts of Steve and me got the rear ones sorted and managed to get the pistons out the front ones, as my air compressor wasn't able to seal everything properly to blow enough air to push the pistons out.
Fun fact No1: We both agreed that yellow isn't a great colour ( expecting StuC to jump on this s:P :P s:P )
Fun fact No2: I ran into our very own jinxedkitten, dropping off a yellow MR2 with a sick engine and a flimsy bridge mount s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
I have had poor refurbed calipers before it's why i try to buy new ones now.
Yellow is fine.
With black.
Quote from: "1979scotte"I have had poor refurbed calipers before it's why i try to buy new ones now.
We managed to save mine with the help of Steve, although we both reckon I'll have to get new ones next time.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Yellow is fine.
With black.
Blue is fine with black. You're just saying that because you just bought yours. Give it time s:P :P s:P s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Right, update.
Managed to replace shifter cables along with a FL shifter assembly. That was a royal pain in the @rse, but good news is, I'll be writing a how-to s:P :P s:P
Finished assembling gearbox. Garage Team (https://www.facebook.com/garageteam.gr/) will be sending my new shifter shaft this week so hopefully if I can get to doing wiring loom this week we're doing engine in on the next weekend hopefully with the first turnkey s:D :D s:D s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Engine now fully assembled and positioned in the car!
If rain could have stopped, I would've also done gearbox and the test turnkey I was hoping to get this weekend. I guess that'll now have to wait after holibobs!
For reference for anyone interested, this is how the 6pk 1420 drive belt is routed on a non A/C 2zz
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Right, car works, been established.
Can't get the gearbox on with the engine on the car though, so engine out once again to put everything together and offer up as one big unit.
The "put everything together" bit is done, rest to come.
Engine and gearbox back in the car.
Driveshafts and fluids remain, but that's easy.
Then MOT either the 16th or the 23rd, depending on when my mechanic is open for Saturday.
And then some celebratory skids...eerrr, I mean top down adventures s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
About damn time..
Quote from: "shnazzle"About damn time..
Wurd!
I've learnt a lot from this swap which I'll summarise in a separate post.
Something very strange and mysterious mystery.
Car has been running fine for a while now and suddenly diff decided it will act as a 2-way permanently locked diff. I now have a proper drift car and all that s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Diff was swapped back to the open 2zz diff and I'll take the Torsen over to Steve to see if we can put our heads together and see what the problem may have been.
Oh and before you ask, YES I did pre-load it correctly. I may have been slow building it, but I did some things right s:P :P s:P
Two more issues to resolve, due to hastiness I guess.
Spat coolant all over a very central road in Coventry. So apologies to anyone driving by at the time s:P :P s:P Forgot to put a jubilee clip on one of the block plugs, all sorted now.
The other issue was that I kept losing the dash and auxiliaries. Decided to condition the battery and check for loose earths and cables. All cables look ok, just one loose earth which I tightened up. I guess if it happens again it's alternator, but kind of unlikely considering I bought it new and tested it works.
Some recent pics, since you've not seen some in a while s:D :D s:D
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Also, some bad news..the silver shell I had bought for the K20 has been stolen from the garage it was stored, so I will swap the K20 in the blue when I'm finished. At that time, I'll put the 2zz swap for sale in here, I'd like to keep it in the club.
Car has been running fine, we're almost at the 1000 mile mark.
New oil, spark plugs and oil filter already to go in s:) :) s:)
Got to say, for a daily driver this is quite a bearable car.
Right, as I'm off overseas with work for about a month, the car is getting some TLC at D1 customs starting this weekend.
Can't think of a better place to leave the car to be cared for while I'm gone. Some issues have been identified that need sorting, Steve will have a list.
If I'm back in time to give a hand, I'll certainly grab a spanner and dive in too s:D :D s:D
Right, busy day yesteday.
Dropped the car off to Steve at D1 for some well-deserved TLC. He has a long list to go through, the poor chap. If not finished by the time I'm back, I'll join in and get my hands dirty too s:D :D s:D
I also stripped the K20 engine apart and off to the machine shop.
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Here's some pics from teardown, not many. I was seeing good signs of previous ownership the more I took apart, this engine has been maintained despite looking pretty dirty. The guys will also do a good clean up as well as the other jobs.
Right, back from the first long test trip with work. Not much done since, other than buying things.
Engine-wise I have:
- new all Honda valvetrain (LMAs, valves, springs, retainers)
- new piston rings
- RBC inlet manifold
- new timing kit
While in the US, I also bought engine mounts and shifter adapter. Managed to save a few pennies on customs 8)
Once I get the engine back from the machine shop, I'll dress it back up and start worrying about gearbox ;D
I need to buy all gearbox-related stuff, including an M-Factory LSD, as my gearbox is from an EP3 type R, so no Honda torsen in there.
That's all folks, for now.
More to come on the next post :)
Car is back with me after a long hiatus (well, it was being worked on by Steve). I'm glad to be back in something light, nimble and high pitched! ;D
As for the K20, things are now moving a little slower than expected, mainly down to me being available only on weekends and not all of them.
I'm sure I'll have it done by the end of the year, but I don't want to rush it, as I plan to live with it far longer than the 2ZZ.
Sadly, this is the last update on this thread.
Salt got us in the end. I had treated various areas a while back to protect the chassis but in the end, terminal rust formed on rear left chassis leg. (:< >:)
That, combined with gearbox failure twice, has driven me to abandon rescuing the blue even further. It's a sad ending to a long journey, but best to start fresh for something I want to keep with me for long.
At beginning of July, it will be stripped down fully and all goodies used over years will be recovered to use on the donor shell. The rebuild of the K20 is going on well and hopefully engine and gearbox will be fully assembled by end of July (it's all done on my spare time, so bear with me).
The 2zz engine will be sold, along with my LSD. I will advertise here first, as I'd like a member to have first dibs if possible.
If any mod/admin is reading this, please lock this thread. I have no further time or energy to continue documenting this build here, as it adds to one more thing I have to look after. It will instead be published on a blog where me and my mate will fully document our projects and if I so wish, I'll re-open a thread later which will be a copy-paste of that content.
Thank you all for enduring this thread for so long. Any questions on a 2zz swap, I'll be happy to answer via PM.