Hi,
Thanks for visiting my RR thread.
My love affair with the Toyota MR2 Roadster started in 2012 when we impulse-purchased a 52 plate black pre-facelift MR2.
It was in a hell of a state, but after a good service, some new tyres and some love and care I absolutely loved it to death. I resurrected it from near-scrap and it felt great.
It fueled a love for the MR2 and soon after, "Snuggles" was traded in for a facelift Sable MR2 with the intention of keeping it for good.
Without further ado!...
Introduction2005 Sable MR2, just under 50k miles, purchased in November 2013 for 4290. Dubbed, "The Emu"...because I've noticed sable is kind of an emu colour s:D :D s:D
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/31/5f5eef60ff7cb77b6c89165d304a58fd.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/31/5644499b2052ed0e88437168f77b56e2.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/31/5a3b013909ceee3381a0853c3692ac15.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/31/62fc7a03885812786c1226e9e092a045.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/31/39746cd393dd29dc63cd5408770ae077.jpg)
Came with:
- Full service history (6 services). 4 at Toyota and 2 at independent. No mention of large repairs.
- Brand new Yoko AD08 tyres all around
- Hardtop fitting kit
- Sony MEX-BT2900 single-din head unit replacement
- Black leather interior
- A/C
- Heated seats
Modifications donePerformance/Preservation+Longevity- TTE exhaust
- Zero equal length exhaust manifold
- 200 cell custom downpipe/cat
- MaxBore throttle body
- HEL stainless braided brake flexi lines
Handling- NathanMR2 ultimate gear shift cable bushings
- Solid gearshift cage mounts
- Short shifter
- Carolyn and David's AutoDiverse underbody brace
- Carolyn and David's AutoDiverse front strut brace
- BC coilovers BR-RA(4kg front and 6kg rear springs and rear rubber top mounts)
- CG Lock for driver seat belt
- SuperPro rear camber bolts
- Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 alloys (7j front et35 and 7.5j rear et45)
- 7mm spacers each side in the rear
- EBC YellowStuff brake pads all around
- Uniroyal Rainsport 3/5 tyres (195/50/15 and 215/45/16)
- Dev's door shut bracing bushes
Styling- Official Toyota JDM MR2 badge (Blue) rear and front. Part-debadged rear
- Roadster badge moved to under left side repeater
- Midship runabout sticker on wind deflector
- LED side lights
- Dev keyhole covers in sable
- JDL ducktail spoiler
- Alarm horn move and spare wheel flip
- Zunsport front and rear grilles
- Chrome instrument binnacle rings
- Sun visor removal and blanking
- Widermuller alloy Lotus-style radio uprights
- Widermuller chrome door pulls
- Widermuller hvac knobs and slider with custom knurled sides for grip
- Full interior retrim in red/grey by Simon at Hide'n'Seat
Electronics- Sony WXGT90BT head-unit
- InPhase USW-10 subwoofer, mounted under steering wheel
- Sony radio control stalk
To-Do list:- TyrePal Solar
- Angel eye DRLs
Pre-Reader's RideHistory09/11/2013: Purchased from Amsthill Road Car Sales in Bedford for 4290. Car looked grand at the time. All the main things looked spot on. Coolant was below "Low" though so had them top it up.
10/11/2013: Noticed crack in windscreen, which had been cleverly disguised by the tax disc holder and the pouring rain when we picked it up. Coolant down to "Low" again....hmmmm
19/11/2013: Took the car to GTSChris in Cramlington. Very friendly local Japanese car (mostly MR2 mk1/2) expert. He certainly knew what he was looking at and did a full check-up on the car.
Compression figures good: 208, 210,207,211. Spark plugs in need of change asap. Piece of metal lodged in N/S rear Yoko s:( :( s:( So trip to tyrespot needed to see if it can be repaired. Rear brakes pitted a bit from standing still and then being used again. Probably MOT advisory, not fail. Crossmember looks very healthy. No sign of any block-related issues, oil nice and clean and 3/4 full. A/C radiator showing excessive wear and tear, but water radiator looking healthy for its age. No error codes. Body straight. Tracking a bit off. Could do with alignment. Front O/S fog light cracked. Argh. Coolant level dropping could be due to air in the lines due to a suspected clutch change, as the bung was new and had been replaced. I'm happy with a clutch change...
30/11/2013: got a smashing deal on a brand new TTE-style underbody brace. Chatted about it with insurance and put the brace on this morning.
Lifted the front of the car about 1ft up.
Unscrewed all the bolts used by the brace, pretty obvious which ones they are.
Pushed the front side into place firmly. It held in place, screws didn't line up.
Used a jack on the middle of the brace to hold it in place while I bolted in the rear side. Perfect fit!
Took the jack off the middle and placed it on a front corner and jacked it up. Brace popped into place.
Popped bolt in, repeated process for other side.
Sorted!!
Absolute transformation of driving
07/12/2013: So yesterday we had a great day at the Xmas brew 2014, and on the way home stopped out for some dinner. Got back in the car and the heater just didn't seem to want to get hot.
The coolant temp all of a sudden went up...anyway you can guess what happened:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/09/agysa8ag.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/09/vahy7ude.jpg)
Coolant expansion bottle completely empty.
Good ol radiator fail on the N/S bottom. Glad I managed to limp home while it still had some coolant.
New radiator ordered from eBay. Guess I've got another few hours on the drive planned. s:( :( s:(
31/05/2015: wow so I haven't updated this in ages!
Basically everything I wanted doing, I have done. TTE exhaust, TTE banana spoiler, and instead of just lowering springs it got a nice new set of BC coilovers.
Services always on time. Just a mere 58k miles now.
27/02/2019: in light of recent insurance discussions I thought it best to revisit my mod list and make sure that every little bit is declared. Might be duplicating as I know I've called stuff in separately but rather that than not be covered.
21/02/2020: changed the text above to reflect removal of my emanage and Hurricane intake and return to stock. Also replaced the TTE underbody brace with the AutoDiverse ("Carolyn and David") underbody brace.
08/03/2021: Another year gone by. Not much changed. Finally changed tyres away from the beloved AD08 range, in light of their recent changes. Gone to Uniroyal Rainsports. Added EBC YellowStuff pads all around. Replaced my front brace with an AutoDiverse one. Alternator's been replaced (again). Removed the crappy ebay clock replacement and refitted original. That's about it really.
This year will be underbody refurbishment year. Front a-arms are going to be replaced, with all new bolts. Then rear arms are getting a seeing to.
Some of the pulleys on the engine are a bit wobbly so might replace them (if possible with engine in).
Other than that....service and maintenance and enjoy :)
Part 1 of Spyderchat Cap's MAF mod bought today off a beloved ex-member.
Got my eye on some 2zz yellow injectors from a low mileage car. Just need a spare intake to pull the vanes out of, and then give the car two fill ups with Vpower Nitro+ (which it gets anyway) prior to doing the mod.
It'll be the first performance-focussed mod I'll have done on the 2 s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Part 1 of Spyderchat Cap's MAF mod bought today off a beloved ex-member.
Got my eye on some 2zz yellow injectors from a low mileage car. Just need a spare intake to pull the veins out of, and then give the car two fill ups with Vpower Nitro+ (which it gets anyway) prior to doing the mod.
It'll be the first performance-focussed mod I'll have done on the 2 s:) :) s:)
What difference do the Yellow injectors make? How will you adjust the timing? Air/fuel?
I am asking as i was thinking of getting some for when i do the turbo conversion, as they are higher CC. Also what is this about Veins?
The maf mod messes with the MAF sensor by raising it. So the car thinks it's getting less air than it is, so you use the yellow injectors to get more fuel in so that the car doesn't run lean. The vanes in the intake are designed to make air flow a certain way and the ECU is calibrated to that. The vanes need removing to get the balance right for the new injectors and running the maf higher.
Then you need to run 98 fuel or higher to prevent knock.
Quote from: "shnazzle"The maf mod messes with the MAF sensor by raising it. So the car thinks it's getting less air than it is, so you use the yellow injectors to get more fuel in so that the car doesn't run lean. The veins in the intake are designed to make air flow a certain way and the ECU is calibrated to that. The veins need removing to get the balance right for the new injectors and running the maf higher.
Then you need to run 98 fuel or higher to prevent knock.
and does this result in more power?
I could do this now, as i will need to uprate the injectors anyway. I was thinking about doing bits when i have time. Even to the extent that i may bolt on the turbo without an actuator until i have all the bits in place :p
Should the car not think it is getting more Air in order for the ECU to send more fuel? Is there a write up on this mod anywhere? i am interested s:) :) s:)
It doesn't result in more power per se, but a hell of a lot of people have noticed significant improvements in pickup with this mod. It's Cap's Maf-mod from Spyderchat
The trick is, the ECU doesn't send it more fuel. That's why the bigger injectors. The ECU thinks it still has the green 1zz injectors, so it fires off X quantity of fuel. But that quantity would be far too little for the amount of air coming in, as the maf mod fools it into thinking less air is coming in than really is. So the ECU times fuel for the air it THINKS is coming in, but the bigger injector lets go of a lot more fuel in the same amount of time, so you end up with more fuel and more air = bigger bang = more go s:) :) s:)
I wouldn't strap a turbo on without the rest mate s:) :) s:) It's just not a good idea.
Quote from: "shnazzle"It doesn't result in more power per se, but a hell of a lot of people have noticed significant improvements in pickup with this mod. It's Cap's Maf-mod from Spyderchat
The trick is, the ECU doesn't send it more fuel. That's why the bigger injectors. The ECU thinks it still has the green 1zz injectors, so it fires off X quantity of fuel. But that quantity would be far too little for the amount of air coming in, as the maf mod fools it into thinking less air is coming in than really is. So the ECU times fuel for the air it THINKS is coming in, but the bigger injector lets go of a lot more fuel in the same amount of time, so you end up with more fuel and more air = bigger bang = more go s:) :) s:)
I wouldn't strap a turbo on without the rest mate s:) :) s:) It's just not a good idea.
Sounds very interesting, i shall get over to Spyderchat in a jiffy.
Nooo.. i won't have a 'plumbed in' turbo, just exhaust side, with open waste gate. Maybe!! I might stick the injectors in with a base map on the emanage and see it that works also, but need a cable first!
Finally did the elusive alarm move today.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/09/2c5ccb30a6ff1cd7bfec3912715a9674.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/09/07d26119b75eb78b2cffae698685d686.jpg)
Temporary bolt slid in through the underside to hold it in place until I can get the original screw cut and threaded.
So much space! And... SO LOUD!
Went for left side as I've got aircon.
Made a crude custom bracket and ran the wire along the top of the radiator, which oddly has perfectly sized clips for the wires to the alarm...
The alarm move finally done. Pending shortening of the spare wheel retaining screw.
It can't be reiterated enough how much louder the alarm is outside the frunk cubby hold.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/13/6e7ef777997b1982984dafb473a669b7.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/13/6ea78843c94e63ddc9e48c8e41cc3993.jpg)
The struggle is real: m https://youtu.be/O-8ytWBpT9U (https://youtu.be/O-8ytWBpT9U) m
May need to reconsider my future plans for front/rear spats and side skirts s:( :( s:(
Today the 2 saw the addition of these fantastic alloy hvac knobs.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/05/0bda2a1e7dacc614cb948ddb9ce5e2cb.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/05/6f10007efde438fff31b0b91b0114cb3.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/14/d8c87614465b5a4539ee6b1a0c57941f.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/05/db9f0026ec9870cea52420a3432cc238.jpg)
And also test-fitted robsonic's eManage Blue piggyback ECU.
Quite a difference already but needs some tweaking.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/05/2823ef119998aabb9d2a4b836e18a4b8.jpg)
This isn't mine, but it's for an mr2 with the emanage blue noted above, same exhaust modifications, and a k&n gen2 intake.
All of the above applies to my 2,minus the intake.. So... I reckon I can use the graph s:) :) s:)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/19/b0946cc5cf5964d0dc3c05ff806d0ba3.jpg)
that the passenger side on the greddy pic Patrick?
It is
Is the dotted line pre mapping work and the solid line post mapping? Ie no physical changes made to the spec between the two, just getting the map right?
Also do you know what octane fuel this was tuned for?
Thanks
My eyes were playing games, must have been the beer.
Quote from: "lamcote"Is the dotted line pre mapping work and the solid line post mapping? Ie no physical changes made to the spec between the two, just getting the map right?
Also do you know what octane fuel this was tuned for?
Thanks
They're just two runs. So, they weren't pleased with the lower one so tweaked s:) :) s:)
It's mapped for 98
What mods do you have to make that power? Says you have a a K&N, what exhaust? Do you have an aftermarket manifold? Or just decanted?
Quote from: "CrazySX"What mods do you have to make that power? Says you have a a K&N, what exhaust? Do you have an aftermarket manifold? Or just decanted?
Cobra do a really nice Merlot! Not sure its as good as their Shiraz though.
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Quote from: "CrazySX"What mods do you have to make that power? Says you have a a K&N, what exhaust? Do you have an aftermarket manifold? Or just decanted?
Cobra do a really nice Merlot! Not sure its as good as their Shiraz though.
They do actually make a good beer! but where does it say the car on the run had a cobra? Am i blind? s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "Jrichards20"Quote from: "CrazySX"What mods do you have to make that power? Says you have a a K&N, what exhaust? Do you have an aftermarket manifold? Or just decanted?
Cobra do a really nice Merlot! Not sure its as good as their Shiraz though.
They do actually make a good beer! but where does it say the car on the run had a cobra? Am i blind? s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
My dreadful sense of humour. You misspelt "decatted" and put "decanted". So I referenced an aftermarket exhaust with decanting wine s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
i'll get me coat s:flame: :flame: s:flame: tis a Friday afternoon and I've had a few beers. Nothing else I can really blame it on..
Quote from: "CrazySX"What mods do you have to make that power? Says you have a a K&N, what exhaust? Do you have an aftermarket manifold? Or just decanted?
As I wrote... It's not my dyno s:) :) s:)
So I can't lay 100% claim to power.
But, I have all the same mods except for the intake.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "CrazySX"What mods do you have to make that power? Says you have a a K&N, what exhaust? Do you have an aftermarket manifold? Or just decanted?
As I wrote... It's not my dyno s:) :) s:)
So I can't lay 100% claim to power.
But, I have all the same mods except for the intake.
I know that's why I said what mods do u have to make to make the power lol!
What mods do u have? TTE exhaust? MANIFOLD?
Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "CrazySX"What mods do you have to make that power? Says you have a a K&N, what exhaust? Do you have an aftermarket manifold? Or just decanted?
As I wrote... It's not my dyno s:) :) s:)
So I can't lay 100% claim to power.
But, I have all the same mods except for the intake.
I know that's why I said what mods do u have to make to make the power lol!
What mods do u have? TTE exhaust? MANIFOLD?
Read the thread! Haha.
Yes TTE exhaust and de-pre-cat
And removed the restrictive corner intake pipe
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "shnazzle"As I wrote... It's not my dyno s:) :) s:)
So I can't lay 100% claim to power.
But, I have all the same mods except for the intake.
I know that's why I said what mods do u have to make to make the power lol!
What mods do u have? TTE exhaust? MANIFOLD?
Read the thread! Haha.
Yes TTE exhaust and de-pre-cat
And removed the restrictive corner intake pipe
So Markii pipe, decatting precats and TTE exhaust could achieve 158bhp with a emanage blue??? I have all these mods you see. Just need a cable for the emanage to connect to the car!
I swear I am blind. I have only seen that you have a TTE exhaust. Havent seen anything about any other mods in this thread.
Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "CrazySX"I know that's why I said what mods do u have to make to make the power lol!
What mods do u have? TTE exhaust? MANIFOLD?
Read the thread! Haha.
Yes TTE exhaust and de-pre-cat
And removed the restrictive corner intake pipe
So Markii pipe, decatting precats and TTE exhaust could achieve 158bhp with a emanage blue??? I have all these mods you see. Just need a cable for the emanage to connect to the car!
I swear I am blind. I have only seen that you have a TTE exhaust. Havent seen anything about any other mods in this thread.
Nope, no markiii pipe. Just removed the pipe that the markiii replaces.
So a K&n gen2 intake, tte Exhaust, de-pre-cat and emanage blue achieves 158. But I'm guessing I'm at about 155 as u don't have the intake
What map are you running on the blue?
Don't forget that it is mapped for 98 octane too, I think that could be making somewhere around 5 bhp (my guess) extra on its own, as it will allow a lot more ignition advance than you can get away with on 95 RON.
My guess is 137 standard bhp + 5 for exhaust + 3 for intake + 8 with eManage map (+5 more for 98 RON map) = 158 bhp
Sure, that makes sense. Worth it for a a 20bhp gain for which most of those things are already done on my car. But then again I have 2zz injectors and a maf riser. Will try that first as I don't have a cable for the ecu at the moment.
Couple weeks in now and a few hard blasts (still got 240 miles out of a tank!), I can conclude that the eManage Blue, TTE exhaust and de-pre-cat is a winning combination for an almost VTEC-like kick at 4000 rpm.
Really enjoy it. The car is now much better in its sweet spot of 4k to 6k rpm, and much better on the motorways. So, fun and practicality improved. And, I'm tempted to say the economy has improved as well. I've been spending a lot of time > 4000rpm and I still got 240 miles out of the tank, which is what I got before by driving not quite as hard. Time will tell.
Need to get a panel filter in there to sweeten the flow up a bit without the added noise of an open intake
I'll take a video of the rev gauge if I can strap my dashcam or phone somewhere sensible.
eManage Blue cable made. Cost 2.50.
..bet it doesn't work...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/e506834de1460288551be9625567967e.jpg)
Been a while now and I've added a markiii pipe to the arsenal of mods now. Note to self...pay theredone for markiii pipe...
So here's a totally unexpected twist...the markiii pipe totally smoothed out the power delivery! Who knew a silly metal pipe could do that. I'm still a bit astonished by this.
I had the stock pipe connected, and the power delivery was a bit bumpy. Hence my note here that it needed tweaking to match my car, and all the talk of connecting it to laptop etc (still doesn't work btw).
Then I disconnected the pipe completely, which improved things a lot. Particularly in the high ends over 3k or so. Totally smooth power delivery, but still a bit lumpy bumpy driving around town.
Now the markiii pipe is in, smooth as a baby's bum all the way through.
Mind it's only lumpy bumpy witout the pipe if I just reset the ECU. Once the long-term fuel trims catch up with the eManage, it smooths out. But it also means I get less pull low down, so then I reset the ECU again s:) :) s:)
So...anybody doubting the merit of the markiii pipe...be advised, it DOES help! It may not be as noticeable on the stock ECU, but clearly it does have a positive influence on the airflow.
I finally got to see what the eManage brings while on the new years drive out organised by Tricky1138. I had to hold back quite a few times to not drive into the person in front of me, so there's definitely a good number of horses gained over stock.
So, quite an unexpected turn of events.
Saw an ad on eBay after a tip from a friendly acquaintance, and after some follow-up calls and a visit, my lovely other half made an impulse purchase; a Y-reg Celica VVTLi with 154k miles from a very friendly chap who just wanted it off the drive.
It's blue, has the desired spoiler, and the seats are in very good nick. And most importantly...the engine... And all that for 300 quid. Would be silly to say no. Although it does need a new fuel pump.
Mentioned it to Helen, who promptly forked over cash so she could have a toy to play around with, with potentially a swap in the future.
2zz conversion is not something I considered anymore after some reviews on here but the this offer and threads like Jawor's absolutely epic 2zz swap made me re-consider (potentially!).
Now you're probably thinking, good luck with that...154k...better off sticking with your 1zz s:) :) s:)
And you'd be right... if it weren't for this:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160217/5735eb65095c2da093c140ec20317645.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160217/f0bf6e8ae42336f0067fcee6683347d4.jpg)
Not bad for 300 quid I'd say s:) :) s:)
Helen wants to fix it up as her "tinkering" car and we'll drive around it in for a while. Hell, it can even take 2 kids in the back! After a while, it might find its way into the back of an MR2.
cant go wrong for £300! s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "Paul1087"cant go wrong for £300! s:) :) s:)
Well that's what I thought. Has a valid MOT so once the fuel issue is sorted it'll be grand as a runabout. Then Helen can crack on learning how to change the brakes (fronts need doing), changing a rear ARB, and we'll get some experience on a tiny bit of bodywork restoration. Has some small bubbles on the offside rear wing that need sanding, smoothing and painting.
£300! Not bad at all! When was all of that done and how many miles ago? Definitely needs to go in the back of the mr2!
So the Celica will arrive soon and having obtained some insurance quotes etc and thinking of the parking situation we'd cause at home, it's seeming like the engine is best placed in the MR2.
Having said that...I'd still quite like to run it in the Celica for a while. Even if just to get a feel for the engine and make sure it's all sweet.
I had discounted the 2zz upgrade a while back, as it is only fun in super high revs which isn't always how you're driving the car. Although it does have a bigger bore so it may have some more low/midrange torque day to day.
The thing is..there's absolutely nothing wrong with my 1zz. It's barely broken in at just 63k miles. Seems silly to rip it out really. I'm quite attached to that little block, oddly.
Also little things like having to faf about with keys to match the car to the new 2zz ecu and stuff... And what do I do with my eManage Blue? It'd be no good to me without a remap, that's another 350-400 quid.
Granted I can sell it, it's got a great map on it.
So having a bit of an issue stepping out of the comfort zone. If anybody at Ding Day has a 2zz I'd love to have a go and take it from there.
I've put together my own little how-to for 2zz conversion. Going to go through it with headcase (Patrick) as I do have some questions. That'll help decide.
I reckon there's still quite some costs to it, even though I will do it all myself.
- Service kit
- cone filter or better intake of sorts
- new clutch/flywheel (seems stupid not to)
- Custom exhaust (although if the TTE can be kept via some custom mid-section pipes, that'd be amazing)
- Get stock exhaust manifold customised to clear subframe
- Gaskets/Seals
- bits and bobs used during conversion
I'm still looking at at least 1000 pounds there. And that's with already having the block and transmission
Seeing as we're both running practically the same moods on the 1zz, may I please shout dibs on your emanage blue if & when you get round to doing your swap?
Sounds like you got a Billy Bargain on that 2zz. GL with the plans.
Quote from: "cptspaulding"Seeing as we're both running practically the same moods on the 1zz, may I please shout dibs on your emanage blue if & when you get round to doing your swap?
Sounds like you got a Billy Bargain on that 2zz. GL with the plans.
It is indeed a bargain, but a conversion still costs a fair penny just for the exhaust changes.
If the emanage goes, I'll keep you in mind.
Oh, c'mon man. You've had that 2zz for almost a day. I thought Helen would have "popped it in the 2" by now.
Actually it's not even here yet! Helen is eager to get stuck into the Celica s:) :) s:) Hope she doesn't get attached haha
Quote from: "shnazzle"Actually it's not even here yet! Helen is eager to get stuck into the Celica s:) :) s:) Hope she doesn't get attached haha
I'm in no hurry Patrick. Been paying out deposits on highland drive, limits day, daughter's scout adventure + gearbox oil change on the Merc so far this month.
I would be interested should it become surplus.
It occurs to me... doesn't your 2 have the 1zz with the updated pistons? You'd be better finding another 2 with a busted engine & doing your 2zz swap on that.
I know. Hence I mentioned that I'm not keen on getting my 1zz out. It's pretty much perfect. But I certainly can't afford to buy even anothrr broken 2 at the minute. But, it has been mentioned as an option; drive the Celica for while while saving up for a breaker with engine issues
Quote from: "shnazzle"Also little things like having to faf about with keys to match the car to the new 2zz ecu and stuff
Piece of cake, took me less than 5 mins to code the spare and primary keys
Quote from: "shnazzle"If anybody at Ding Day has a 2zz I'd love to have a go and take it from there
Sure, feel free to have a buzz in mine (insurance permitting), I'll be there
Quote from: "shnazzle"I've put together my own little how-to for 2zz conversion.
- Service kit - Obviously - make sure you change the accessory drive belt with the engine out
- cone filter or better intake of sorts - Any old filter attached to a silicone joiner will do
- new clutch/flywheel (seems stupid not to) - makes sense, would be nice to get a lightweight flywheel, frees up the engine even more
- Custom exhaust (although if the TTE can be kept via some custom mid-section pipes, that'd be amazing) - you can keep ALL of your TTE exhaust
- Get stock exhaust manifold customised to clear subframe - easy chop and re-weld
- Gaskets/Seals - would recommend replacing the coil pack seals and changing the lift bolts as a minimum
- bits and bobs used during conversion - surprisingly few, as so many parts are interchangeable!
Quote from: "shnazzle"I'm still looking at at least 1000 pounds there. And that's with already having the block and transmission
No way is it even close to that...
Interested In the exhaust side. I was figuring at least 400 to 450 just for the custom exhaust and manifold changes.
Then another 400 for new clutch and lightweight flywheel. The latter being optional of course. This one's only done 34k.
Wow, sounds like a plan is coming together! I'm going to go and do some reading on 2zz conversions and dream... One day.. Maybe... Jealous!!
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Wow, sounds like a plan is coming together! I'm going to go and do some reading on 2zz conversions and dream... One day.. Maybe... Jealous!!
Who knows you may be lucky and find a 300 quid one as well s:D :D s:D hehe.
I go on as if it's a brand new engine, but it has done 34k hard miles since rebuild. so the "new" clutch would probably benefit from being changed and the engine is definitely "worn in" by now so definitely needs a good service. So all in all the engine+gearbox may still end up costing over 600 quid or so.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Interested In the exhaust side. I was figuring at least 400 to 450 just for the custom exhaust and manifold changes.
Then another 400 for new clutch and lightweight flywheel. The latter being optional of course. This one's only done 34k.
I'm not going to bother with the lightweight flywheel, can see them being of use in a V6 with the torque, but on a revvy 4 pot, it will make set offs a nightmare with no mass to follow through, unless someone can point me differently
Sooo Chris Knott won't insure 2zz in my mr2. So that's good......really pleased with that.
And who knew Celicas were so damn expensive to insure???
Won't insure because?
Quote from: "StuC"Won't insure because?
No idea. And they have no alternative insurers in their books that would take it on.
Makes it seem like I'm putting in a jet engine. Mind, they'd insure the Celica... Bit confused.
Will flux sort you out?
So is it your circumstances, or are they adverse to providing insurance on all engine swaps in 2s?
They made my life difficult when i went turbo.
Told them i would cancel and go to flux.
They sorted me out in the end but flux proved to be cheaper at renewal.
Dont seem to like mods that add substansal power.
Shnazzle, did u buy a boomslang for the emanage or make a loom urself using the ebay plugs?
Quote from: "StuC"Will flux sort you out?
Nope! They couldn't even give me a quote for the Celica! So not even going to ask about mr2+2zz
Quote from: "Jrichards20"So is it your circumstances, or are they adverse to providing insurance on all engine swaps in 2s?
Not sure, starting to think it's me
Quote from: "1979scotte"They made my life difficult when i went turbo.
Told them i would cancel and go to flux.
They sorted me out in the end but flux proved to be cheaper at renewal.
Dont seem to like mods that add substansal power.
So that's CK and Flux out. Hopefully Greenlight can be friendly. They couldn't give me a competitive quote for the 2 last time s:( :( s:(
Starting to think this is going to be a showstopper s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "CrazySX"Shnazzle, did u buy a boomslang for the emanage or make a loom urself using the ebay plugs?
I bought the emanage with the Boomslang. Makes life much easier
Others have 2zz swap insurance. What is it about you that is making this so hard? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "StuC"Others have 2zz swap insurance. What is it about you that is making this so hard? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Because I'm a dirty foreigner taking your jobs and tax money hahaha
Try Brentacre, just got my renewal through and same as last year on my engine swapped car. They also insured my 2ZZ for the month I had it. I have a dreadful postcode as well.
Problem solved. I'll be back with Greenlight as of 17/03 s:) :) s:) They beat Chris Knott's renewal quote... WITH 2zz!! How crazy is that?
Good times.
Remember now why I loved being with Greenlight
Glad you have got it sorted.
I was surprised you were struggling with the celica though as that is a standard car, its usually only when you start the bigger mods that the companies get twitchy.
Running the celica for a bit makes good sense so you not only feel confident about it but can decide if its power delivery is going to be right for what you are looking for.
It looks like it is just a case of talking to every company if you have power mods as sometimes they want your business and other times they dont seem to want it!
It is surprising that I got a "no quote" on the Celica from Flux. Said because the car was so cheap and the area I live in is quite densely populated... REALLY?? My estate is a no-through-road area on the edge of small town in Northumberland.... What the hell
Anyway. As the head wasn't rebuilt as part of the engine rebuild I'm pricing up some new components. Might be an excuse to go "Jawor" on this with some upgraded cams and valve springs.
Do the cams make a big difference, mine are in good nick but if the performance difference is large, I could change them?
Quote from: "ColleyV8"Do the cams make a big difference, mine are in good nick but if the performance difference is large, I could change them?
After reading my dream thread that is Jawor's Reader's Ride, I did some further research and he does seem to have it spot on in that the stage 2 piper cams should be mated with some firmer valve springs (he used Eibach). So it's a bit more work all in all, but it does seem to be worth it.
His seems to go like an absolute rocket.
However, there's also quite a difference in profile between the Crower, Piper and stock. Price is a factor as well of course with cams being another 350ish added to the bill.
But it's not like it's a part-job is it? Once you replace cams and valve springs, I guess you need stronger valves, and then seats, shims, guides, etc etc.
But the thing is, its not much cheaper for stock parts so if I'm going to rebuild... Seems silly to then put stock stuff in.
I can see that I'm going to have to start considering remortgaging the house haha
Cant you sell the kids or at a push maybe Helen?
Kids. Definitely kids. Unfortunately most people have the sense to shy away from that purchase.
I guess I can make it as expensive as I like. Or just leave it and rebuild at 60k or something. Gives time to build a stock of parts. Just means the whole damn engine has to come out again
Started stripping the Celica to find cause of leakages while Helen added coolant (only needed about 200ml), oil and changed spark plugs.
Noticed only much later that the spark plugs wore unevenly in pairs.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160221/64c26ab180da92628417bfc9a14f5c5a.jpg)
Almost looks like one bank is running rich while the other is lean.
From stripping the Celica we're about 70% sure we're not even going to bother insuring the Celica. Just use it as a platform to see how the engine runs and revs. Maybe try the gearbox and on some private land nearby.
Quote from: "shnazzle"But it's not like it's a part-job is it? Once you replace cams and valve springs, I guess you need stronger valves, and then seats, shims, guides, etc etc.
But the thing is, its not much cheaper for stock parts so if I'm going to rebuild... Seems silly to then put stock stuff in.
Makes sense, mines almost new, will go take some photos seeing as thought the sun decided to come out today, will keep the existing cams for now, probably no more than 5-8 hp gain anyway, from what I've read the 2ZZ has a fantastic flowing head and cams already
Cheers and good luck with the build
2zz-ing your ride too, sir? Nice one, keep us informed! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Quote from: "manos3003"2zz-ing your ride too, sir? Nice one, keep us informed! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
It certainly is looking that way. Helen's very disappointed as she'll be missing out on tinkering with a new toy. But she is keen on using the Celica to practice some things on. Even welding!
Now I'm running laps in my head with all the options.
It all depends on the state of the engine.
Worst case, it's a scrapper. Best case, it's a service and a drop-in.
In the middle is that it requires some work.. Which is where my head is doing overtime now in looking at uprated vs stock parts.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "manos3003"2zz-ing your ride too, sir? Nice one, keep us informed! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
It certainly is looking that way. Helen's very disappointed as she'll be missing out on tinkering with a new toy. But she is keen on using the Celica to practice some things on. Even welding!
Now I'm running laps in my head with all the options.
It all depends on the state of the engine.
Worst case, it's a scrapper. Best case, it's a service and a drop-in.
In the middle is that it requires some work.. Which is where my head is doing overtime now in looking at uprated vs stock parts.
Any issues noted on the donor powertrain?
Yes. A few.
Murky coolant, two of spark plugs show soot, I've never seen it run due to a fuel pump issue, and oil was just below minimum line haha
Aside from that, it's all good hahaha
Quote from: "shnazzle"Yes. A few.
Murky coolant, two of spark plugs show soot, I've never seen it run due to a fuel pump issue, and oil was just below minimum line haha
Aside from that, it's all good hahaha
Seems healthy as a horse (1, not all 190 of them) s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Murky coolant = Head gasket? I'd start there at least
Soot can be the cause of misfires, but ultimately not the root cause of the problem. Maybe you need to have a look at the air/fuel ratio when it's actually running.
Fuel pump isn't very expensive to replace.
Oil, you could do with a top-up.
Simples! s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"Yes. A few.
Murky coolant, two of spark plugs show soot, I've never seen it run due to a fuel pump issue, and oil was just below minimum line haha
Aside from that, it's all good hahaha
Seems healthy as a horse (1, not all 190 of them) s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Murky coolant = Head gasket? I'd start there at least
Soot can be the cause of misfires, but ultimately not the root cause of the problem. Maybe you need to have a look at the air/fuel ratio when it's actually running.
Fuel pump isn't very expensive to replace.
Oil, you could do with a top-up.
Simples! s:D :D s:D
Yup. Head gasket is my guess. Especially as oil was low as well. So that's an easy fix with the block out, but just need to hope no damage was done.
I suspect misfires are indeed the cause of the sooty plugs simply because they had no other deposits/oil on them. I wish I could get the full freeze frame data so that I could see what the LTFT and STFT was at the time the codes came up.
Oil has been topped up and fuel pump (10 quid) should arrive today s:) :) s:)
Hopefully that'll get the car to at least run. Then I can charge the battery up a bit and do a compression test. Not enough power left in the battery at the minute to crank it for a compression test.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"Yes. A few.
Murky coolant, two of spark plugs show soot, I've never seen it run due to a fuel pump issue, and oil was just below minimum line haha
Aside from that, it's all good hahaha
Seems healthy as a horse (1, not all 190 of them) s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Murky coolant = Head gasket? I'd start there at least
Soot can be the cause of misfires, but ultimately not the root cause of the problem. Maybe you need to have a look at the air/fuel ratio when it's actually running.
Fuel pump isn't very expensive to replace.
Oil, you could do with a top-up.
Simples! s:D :D s:D
Yup. Head gasket is my guess. Especially as oil was low as well. So that's an easy fix with the block out, but just need to hope no damage was done.
I suspect misfires are indeed the cause of the sooty plugs simply because they had no other deposits/oil on them. I wish I could get the full freeze frame data so that I could see what the LTFT and STFT was at the time the codes came up.
Oil has been topped up and fuel pump (10 quid) should arrive today s:) :) s:)
Hopefully that'll get the car to at least run. Then I can charge the battery up a bit and do a compression test. Not enough power left in the battery at the minute to crank it for a compression test.
Nice one chap! Seems you're on top of things. s:) :) s:)
With the head out, it's a good chance to see imperfections and assess whether there's any need to skim it so it fits nicely on the block. No need to port, this engine is very good on air-flow, porting can be disastrous on a 2ZZ-GE if done wrong.
Sooty plugs could be for a number of reasons that would mess up the air/fuel ratio (e.g. poorly set after-market injectors). A snapshot of the ECU with all DTCs would give you some rough guidance to begin with, I'd agree on that.
Quote from: "manos3003"With the head out, it's a good chance to see imperfections and assess whether there's any need to skim it so it fits nicely on the block. No need to port, this engine is very good on air-flow, porting can be disastrous on a 2ZZ-GE if done wrong.
Interesting. I was considering doing some porting, especially as the manifolds do seem a bit messy from factory. But I wouldn't want to mess it up. I'll leave it for the sake of a couple of horses s:) :) s:)
I hope it doesn't require a skim. replacing the gasket is one thing. Dismantling the whole damn thing to send off for a skimming is a whole other thing. Then I might as well send it as-is and have them machine the whole lot, replace rings, etc etc.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Interesting. I was considering doing some porting, especially as the manifolds do seem a bit messy from factory. But I wouldn't want to mess it up. I'll leave it for the sake of a couple of horses s:) :) s:)
I hope it doesn't require a skim. replacing the gasket is one thing. Dismantling the whole damn thing to send off for a skimming is a whole other thing. Then I might as well send it as-is and have them machine the whole lot, replace rings, etc etc.
Seems quite the faff to try and rescue the engine, but since you already have a donor engine, if you can save it you might as well try.
So another unsuccessful day with the Celica.
Got the seats out, which looks great with the exception of one small hole on the drivers side. Can fix that. They're really comfy actually so might fit these in the mr2 for a while to see what they're like.
If I like them, they're keepers!
In the 2zz...still need to change the fuel pump as the one in there is knackered due to water ingress.
Sodding screws are seized solid so couldn't remove it s:( :( s:(
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/de35fa0c5b862657ec876e7a44af2be9.jpg)
Quote from: "shnazzle"So another unsuccessful day with the Celica.
Got the seats out, which looks great with the exception of one small hole on the drivers side. Can fix that. They're really comfy actually so might fit these in the mr2 for a while to see what they're like.
If I like them, they're keepers!
In the 2zz...still need to change the fuel pump as the one in there is knackered due to water ingress.
Sodding screws are seized solid so couldn't remove it s:( :( s:(
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/de35fa0c5b862657ec876e7a44af2be9.jpg)
Nice seats, currently pondering whether to get some celica ones or some aftermarket ones.
As for the screws, cut them, re-thread the holes and use shiny new ones s:) :) s:)
The problem is Manos that I'd rather not create sparks so close to the fuel tank s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"The problem is Manos that I'd rather not create sparks so close to the fuel tank s:) :) s:)
Might be your last resort if penetrating fluid and some heat don't do the job.
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"The problem is Manos that I'd rather not create sparks so close to the fuel tank s:) :) s:)
Might be your last resort if penetrating fluid and some heat don't do the job.
Might be the last thing I ever do!
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"The problem is Manos that I'd rather not create sparks so close to the fuel tank s:) :) s:)
Might be your last resort if penetrating fluid and some heat don't do the job.
Might be the last thing I ever do!
Chillax! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: Drain the fuel out of the tank to minimise the risk of going ka-boom and you're good! s:D :D s:D
Might need to let the fumes out as well, gas with heat is even worse!
Starting to think this was a mistake.
Anybody else want to try their luck on this Celica? s:) :) s:)
I cant be arsed haha
Quote from: "shnazzle"Starting to think this was a mistake.
Anybody else want to try their luck on this Celica? s:) :) s:)
I cant be arsed haha
Oh no, don't give up. Hold on to it, do little bits at a time and wait for a cheap SC to pop up. Whack that on with it and you have a beast, and then, it will all be worth it! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Quote from: "shnazzle"Starting to think this was a mistake.
Anybody else want to try their luck on this Celica? s:) :) s:)
I cant be arsed haha
Oh no, don't give up. Hold on to it, do little bits at a time and wait for a cheap SC to pop up. Whack that on with it and you have a beast, and then, it will all be worth it! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I need the drive clear. That's the problem. And on top of that, the Audi now has a parking sensor fault AND the passenger window cable snapped.
You know what they say...when it rains.
Goal for today/tomorrow is to get the car running. If it runs and sounds ok, I'll rip the engine out of the front of the car and call the scrappy for the rest.
Seats will be sold. Not taking any dibs as of yet obviously
Quote from: "shnazzle"Starting to think this was a mistake.
Anybody else want to try their luck on this Celica? s:) :) s:)
I cant be arsed haha
This £350 engine and box turning out to be a bit more expensive mate? s:flame: :flame: s:flame:
Seriously though, definitely stay at it. Get the engine and box out. Put it on an engine stand and get rid of the Celica shell, wait a few weeks and I all but guarantee you'll get excited about putting it in again.
I'm going to wait a couple of months (going to take me a while to get my chassis stuff sorted anyway) and then have someone do the 2ZZ swap for me unless I spot another SP or TTE turbo on eBay for reasonable money in the meantime. Perfect excuse to have a gearbox refurbished too so you have a lovely 'as new' box for the foreseeable future.
Quote from: "jeffsimply"Quote from: "shnazzle"Starting to think this was a mistake.
Anybody else want to try their luck on this Celica? s:) :) s:)
I cant be arsed haha
This £350 engine and box turning out to be a bit more expensive mate? s:flame: :flame: s:flame:
Seriously though, definitely stay at it. Get the engine and box out. Put it on an engine stand and get rid of the Celica shell, wait a few weeks and I all but guarantee you'll get excited about putting it in again.
I'm going to wait a couple of months (going to take me a while to get my chassis stuff sorted anyway) and then have someone do the 2ZZ swap for me unless I spot another SP or TTE turbo on eBay for reasonable money in the meantime. Perfect excuse to have a gearbox refurbished too so you have a lovely 'as new' box for the foreseeable future.
It was 300 quid s:) :) s:) haha. But I have spent another 60 or so on oil, coolant (which it didn't end up needing in the end), spark plugs and a fuel pump. Now I need to get some Irwin bolt removers, so that's another 20 but that's just adding to the arsenal so that's ok.
Basically if I can get it running tonight, it's a keeper, if not, I'm binning it.
Fuel pump changed.
.. Nothing. Battery shows next to nothing.
Borrowed a battery charger so I'll try later tonight. If it doesn't start. I'll check fuses and if they're all good,calling scrappy tomorrow
Battery charged.
It's definitely fueling this time. Pulled a plug and it was wet and smelled of fresh fuel. WOuld have a hard time smelling of any other fuel as they're brand new.
Now there;s no spark!
Phase 2...find why no spark.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Battery charged.
It's definitely fueling this time. Pulled a plug and it was wet and smelled of fresh fuel. WOuld have a hard time smelling of any other fuel as they're brand new.
Now there;s no spark!
Phase 2...find why no spark.
Happened to my Corolla. 2 things to check.
1. Starter motor
2. Immobilizer
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"Battery charged.
It's definitely fueling this time. Pulled a plug and it was wet and smelled of fresh fuel. WOuld have a hard time smelling of any other fuel as they're brand new.
Now there;s no spark!
Phase 2...find why no spark.
Happened to my Corolla. 2 things to check.
1. Starter motor
2. Immobilizer
IT does crank, so it's not the stater motor, and the block's not seized s:) :) s:)
As for immobilizer...interesting...how would I go about checking this? THe keys are knacked. I can unlock the car with the button though, so that should turn off the immob
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"Battery charged.
It's definitely fueling this time. Pulled a plug and it was wet and smelled of fresh fuel. WOuld have a hard time smelling of any other fuel as they're brand new.
Now there;s no spark!
Phase 2...find why no spark.
Happened to my Corolla. 2 things to check.
1. Starter motor
2. Immobilizer
IT does crank, so it's not the stater motor, and the block's not seized s:) :) s:)
As for immobilizer...interesting...how would I go about checking this? THe keys are knacked. I can unlock the car with the button though, so that should turn off the immob
In my case, I could unlock the car, but immobilizer light didn't switch off when I put key in the ignition. Maybe immobilizer lost memory?
I'm really stumped now.
Can MAF issue stop a car from starting?
Just checked codes and I think it's just making stuff up as it goes along now.
I had codes P0300, P0301 for misfires, P0411 for Secondary Air Injector. Now I've got just MAF codes P0100 and intake air temp circuit P0110. I doubt I knacked both sensors of the MAF when I Cleaned it, and an IAC code...
Still no go. Fueling absolutely fine now. I can smell it,
The "Security" light goes off whne I put the key in. ANd when I unlock the car the other security light stops blinking. How else can I test immobiliser?
Or...what else could it be?!?!?
Ive tried starting the car with a bit of throttle in case the IAC is not letting air in.
Rag lost. 2ZZ is up for grabs for someone who has patience, space and time. Seats also up for sale separately.
Also..don't buy expensive cars.
Passenger door regulator went on the Audi..guess how much that costs to fix? 285 quid... TWO HUNDRED EIGHTY FIVE quid. For a bit of metal cable and plastic. That's fitted. And under the table. 341 inc vat if done properly.
Audi is going out the door. Long live old DIY cars.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Rag lost. 2ZZ is up for grabs for someone who has patience, space and time. Seats also up for sale separately.
Also..don't buy expensive cars.
Passenger door regulator went on the Audi..guess how much that costs to fix? 285 quid... TWO HUNDRED EIGHTY FIVE quid. For a bit of metal cable and plastic. That's fitted. And under the table. 341 inc vat if done properly.
Audi is going out the door. Long live old DIY cars.
Why do you think i gave up Mercs and BMWs for a mondeo? (Wife hated it until traded for the 2)
Tired of paying the earth for everything.
I have my 2 and the use of a 19 year old polo. ( £200 60k miles 1 owner years mot)
Will do me nicely thank you.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "shnazzle"Rag lost. 2ZZ is up for grabs for someone who has patience, space and time. Seats also up for sale separately.
Also..don't buy expensive cars.
Passenger door regulator went on the Audi..guess how much that costs to fix? 285 quid... TWO HUNDRED EIGHTY FIVE quid. For a bit of metal cable and plastic. That's fitted. And under the table. 341 inc vat if done properly.
Audi is going out the door. Long live old DIY cars.
Why do you think i gave up Mercs and BMWs for a mondeo? (Wife hated it until traded for the 2)
Tired of paying the earth for everything.
I have my 2 and the use of a 19 year old polo. ( £200 60k miles 1 owner years mot)
Will do me nicely thank you.
Yeah we're selling the Audi asap and getting a nice Mazda5 instead. We had an 06 about 5 years ago and it was absolutely fantastic. So, sticking with a winning formula
I feel your pain on the Audi stuff fella. Recently had to get 2 x drive shafts... £300... Each!
Also had to change a cam chain tensioner. That was £400, which btw I needed 2 off as well. Blasted v6!! s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Quote from: "StuC"I feel your pain on the Audi stuff fella. Recently had to get 2 x drive shafts... £300... Each!
Also had to change a cam chain tensioner. That was £400, which btw I needed 2 off as well. Blasted v6!! s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Indeed!
Thats the thing we'll miss. That 3.0 v6 is beautiful. Easily the best engine I've driven.
Im sure we'll find other ways to get our power kick s:) :) s:) s:) :) s:)
Sorry to hear you're letting it go. Maybe if you get in mine after August for a spin you might change your mind s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
As for the other car, I'd go for a diesel (for your torque fix) which is easy to maintain. s:) :) s:)
Had all my hopes pinned on these sensors from Dave (cabbydave) .
No go.
I pulled the crankshaft sensor back out to return to Dave and low and behold,what is this I spot on the end? I huge piece of metal shaving.
NICE!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/89327e259a8318faacb68089de9b9cc9.jpg)
Pulled some oil out from the bottom. Same story.
This engine didn't just have fueling issues. This engined was destroyed.
At this point which plastics were ripped off the bottom of the car, wheel was put back on, and salvaging began.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/8f0018c72cfccda683b088ef5e06f078.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/d87e5f57b925520798da7086130cf152.jpg)
End of 2zz aspirations. Goodbye please.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Had all my hopes pinned on these sensors from Dave (cabbydave) .
No go.
I pulled the crankshaft sensor back out to return to Dave and low and behold,what is this I spot on the end? I huge piece of metal shaving.
NICE!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/89327e259a8318faacb68089de9b9cc9.jpg)
Pulled some oil out from the bottom. Same story.
This engine didn't just have fueling issues. This engined was destroyed.
At this point which plastics were ripped off the bottom of the car, wheel was put back on, and salvaging began.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/8f0018c72cfccda683b088ef5e06f078.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160313/d87e5f57b925520798da7086130cf152.jpg)
End of 2zz aspirations. Goodbye please.
Not necessarily an end to 2zz aspirations, you just need to find a more suitable donor s:) :) s:)
Be patient and don't give up! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Sorry its all gone pete tong however for less than a monkey it was well worth a punt.
I'd rather have had the monkey!
Shame it didn't work out Patrick. What did the previous owner tell you about the car? Sounds like you got unlucky. As you say tho, not bad for the money. I am sure you can salvage back 300 quid.
Besides, I think your car is destined for forced induction having a nice low mileage engine s;) ;) s;) be a waste to put a high revving screamer in it.
Quote from: "CrazySX"Shame it didn't work out Patrick. What did the previous owner tell you about the car? Sounds like you got unlucky. As you say though, not bad for the money. I am sure you can salvage back 300 quid.
Besides, I think your car is destined for forced induction having a nice low mileage engine s;) ;) s;) be a waste to put a high revving screamer in it.
Not necessarily.
1. Port the head
2. Get injectors from a 2zz
3. Stick a S/C
4. Map the ECU
Should get at least 170 HP
Simples! s:D :D s:D
I'm sure SC is forced induction s;) ;) s;) And I'd really hope to see more than 170!
Quote from: "shnazzle"I'm sure SC is forced induction s;) ;) s;) And I'd really hope to see more than 170!
S/C is forced induction, but no lag. Torque increase in all rpm.
As for the power figures, I was being a bit conservative. Don't want too many fast cars around me, else I'll have to heavily tune my engine! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Just to further emphasise the state of this engine.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/cff7601d324eee3b681f29b54c4e86cd.jpg)
Lift bolts. Or with the wear on these, "drop bolts" is probably more appropriate.
Remember... 30k miles.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/dfc4513522c82f568e33b271dfa40065.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/7bcb491b80b6a6c2b186c1ef3776ab13.jpg)
Makes you wonder whether this is bad maintenance or whether "rebuilt by Toyota" is not something to be proud of.
Could be anything mate, without knowing the history (i.e. being there through its life) then it's anyone's guess right?
Quote from: "jeffsimply"Could be anything mate, without knowing the history (i.e. being there through its life) then it's anyone's guess right?
Yup. I suspect a combination of bad practice at Toyota when the engine was rebuilt and horrible horrible maintenance.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Just to further emphasise the state of this engine.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/cff7601d324eee3b681f29b54c4e86cd.jpg)
Lift bolts. Or with the wear on these, "drop bolts" is probably more appropriate.
Remember... 30k miles.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/dfc4513522c82f568e33b271dfa40065.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/7bcb491b80b6a6c2b186c1ef3776ab13.jpg)
Makes you wonder whether this is bad maintenance or whether "rebuilt by Toyota" is not something to be proud of.
Jeez, look at those lift bolts and cam wipe. s:scared: :scared: s:scared: That's just nasty. Good decision not to proceed.
If you ever want to go down the 2zz route, we'll see if we can find you a suitable donor. This clearly wasn't.
Been off the forum for ages, just had a read through of your thread as I have a baby consuming all my time and energy, but want to get back to enjoying my mr2... Before you abandon 2zz plans do bear in mind that it absolutely rocks! I don't drive mine anywhere near enough (currently on 6months paternity leave!) but every time I get it warmed up and thrash the limiter through a few gears everything becomes good again!
Quote from: "jonty"Been off the forum for ages, just had a read through of your thread as I have a baby consuming all my time and energy, but want to get back to enjoying my mr2... Before you abandon 2zz plans do bear in mind that it absolutely rocks! I don't drive mine anywhere near enough (currently on 6months paternity leave!) but every time I get it warmed up and thrash the limiter through a few gears everything becomes good again!
I think i need to have a go in one. How does it compare (if at all) to your 200sx. I just think the 1zz lacks the low down torque and imagine the 2zz would be worse?
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "CrazySX"Shame it didn't work out Patrick. What did the previous owner tell you about the car? Sounds like you got unlucky. As you say though, not bad for the money. I am sure you can salvage back 300 quid.
Besides, I think your car is destined for forced induction having a nice low mileage engine s;) ;) s;) be a waste to put a high revving screamer in it.
Not necessarily.
1. Port the head
2. Get injectors from a 2zz
3. Stick a S/C
4. Map the ECU
Should get at least 170 HP
Simples! s:D :D s:D
Not that simple if you have to take the head off. The rest of the work is the same or similar to installing a turbo. Depends if you want efficiency or lower down power. I am going to go T25 now so hopefully get a bit of both, until i can fit an ERS system and get a bigger turbo :p s8) 8) s8)
Even better turbo charge the 2ZZ s:) :) s:) m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eclSr3bIBiM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eclSr3bIBiM) m
Quote from: "CrazySX"I think i need to have a go in one. How does it compare (if at all) to your 200sx. I just think the 1zz lacks the low down torque and imagine the 2zz would be worse?
It's almost the opposite in driving experience, 200sx has masses of midrange power, but nothing much changes from 5k onwards, whereas the 2zz doesn't do anything until over 6k... It's perfectly OK below this but is just a normal engine in a normal car. Acceleration is about 75% of 200sx, but you have to spank it to do so. I think 2zz is brilliant if you can do it yourself as it's so cost effective this way (if you can cut a piece of steel to make the Mount adapter and weld the exhaust you don't need any conversion parts) but if you are paying someone to do the conversion you're probably just as well off getting a turbo on 1zz since that gives more usable power in the midrange and you don't need to duck about switching diff's.
Quote from: "jonty"Quote from: "CrazySX"I think i need to have a go in one. How does it compare (if at all) to your 200sx. I just think the 1zz lacks the low down torque and imagine the 2zz would be worse?
It's almost the opposite in driving experience, 200sx has masses of midrange power, but nothing much changes from 5k onwards, whereas the 2zz doesn't do anything until over 6k... It's perfectly OK below this but is just a normal engine in a normal car. Acceleration is about 75% of 200sx, but you have to spank it to do so. I think 2zz is brilliant if you can do it yourself as it's so cost effective this way (if you can cut a piece of steel to make the Mount adapter and weld the exhaust you don't need any conversion parts) but if you are paying someone to do the conversion you're probably just as well off getting a turbo on 1zz since that gives more usable power in the midrange and you don't need to duck about switching diff's.
Good to hear your opinion as a fellow 200sx and 2 owner s:) :) s:) Just as i thought then, Turbo 1zz it is. Further down the line if the 1zz fails me, i may replace it with a 2zz and keep the turbo (a bit bigger) and obviously a stronger box etc. But baby steps s:D :D s:D
Yeah I think if you want more than the 190 or you want it lower in the range 1zz turbo is the most cost effective. I have rotrex c30-74 on the shelf which should be OK for about 260bhp, but with lower midrange torque (and 2zz red line) so will be better for the gearbox than a similar output for 1zz-t... That's probably the only benefit to the route I've gone tbh!
Fitted the K&N panel filter this weekend and it completes what I want to do with the intake.
Not entirely convinced by the cone filters on these cars and frankly the car is loud enough as it is.
More importantly, it seems to have brought it in line with what Dave's (robsonic) car was so the eManage I got off him is very much in its element now.
The markiii pipe made the biggest improvement but the K&N has now almost made it "life-like" at 4k rpm.
The engine now seems to be getting the air flow that it expected based on the emanage map which was mapped to a K&N 57i intake.
That'll be the very last of the "performance" mods for this engine in the state it's in. Wouldn't mind getting it on a dyno to see where it's at. I wouldn't be surprised if it was > 150.
Nice!
What's the noise like from the K&N?
A bit much or does it seem appropriate?
It's just a panel filter, so there's not more noise. Just a bit more engine grunt as the noise isn't being muffled as much.
Nothing like a cone filter
Reading fail. Completely missed the "panel filter" bit!
Last little bit of visible Toyota badge gone
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160327/8f1acf6aca34e040976ac1cfb4c8355c.jpg)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Last little bit of visible Toyota badge gone
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160327/8f1acf6aca34e040976ac1cfb4c8355c.jpg)
That's a nice addition is it a stick on jobbie? Does it go over the original or does the original come out?
Quote from: "shnazzle"Last little bit of visible Toyota badge gone
What is wrong with toyota badging?
Quote from: "StuC"Quote from: "shnazzle"Last little bit of visible Toyota badge gone
What is wrong with toyota badging?
Seconded!
Quote from: "StuC"Quote from: "shnazzle"Last little bit of visible Toyota badge gone
What is wrong with toyota badging?
It's nice to be different? s:) :) s:) surely as a yellow you'd understand s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "StuC"Quote from: "shnazzle"Last little bit of visible Toyota badge gone
What is wrong with toyota badging?
Seconded!
Its boring like 90% of the cars they build these days.
I just think the Toyota badge is sh1te haha. Much prefer the Midship Runabout symbol... Which is still Toyota s;) ;) s;)
Yes it does indeed just stick over the original. Fits perfectly
Quote from: "shnazzle"I just think the Toyota badge is sh1te haha. Much prefer the Midship Runabout symbol... Which is still Toyota s;) ;) s;)
Yes it does indeed just stick over the original. Fits perfectly
I agree, plus it's nice to puzzle people as to what the car is s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "shnazzle"I just think the Toyota badge is sh1te haha. Much prefer the Midship Runabout symbol... Which is still Toyota s;) ;) s;)
Yes it does indeed just stick over the original. Fits perfectly
I agree, plus it's nice to puzzle people as to what the car is s:) :) s:)
The looks you get are priceless. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
When I was in my gunmetal grey MK1 I was sat waiting for the roller shutters at work to open, and a builders van was facing me. One of the three blokes got out and ran around to the back of my car, evidently to read what it actually was - his response as yelled back to the van: "Nah! It's just a F***king Toyota!!"
Quote from: "JoeCool"When I was in my gunmetal grey MK1 I was sat waiting for the roller shutters at work to open, and a builders van was facing me. One of the three blokes got out and ran around to the back of my car, evidently to read what it actually was - his response as yelled back to the van: "Nah! It's just a F***king Toyota!!"
Wouldnt say that if he'd of driven it i am sure
Hey Patrick,
Quick question about the K&N- why did you go for that one?
Ie why not the trd/BMC etc? And do have any thoughts on the MAF sensor needing cleaning since it's oiled?
Cheers!
John
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Hey Patrick,
Quick question about the K&N- why did you go for that one?
Ie why not the trd/BMC etc? And do have any thoughts on the MAF sensor needing cleaning since it's oiled?
Cheers!
John
Simple answer is that I got it for a good price off someone.
The BMC material doesn't inspire confidence unfortunately, looking like it would let an awful lot of debris through.
The TRD does look good, but expensive and not sure it's worth it over the more readily available K&N.
The MAF issues are always thrown around forums but have little substance for correctly (lightly) oiled filters.
The MAF gets cleaned relatively regularly anyway.
Getting a panel filter is always a compromise between flow and ability to filter. The reason I've gone for K&N is because the emanage i have was mapped for a gen2 K&N intake, so I was missing a few cfm by using stock.
Once I switched to markiii pipe and K&N it made it all run like it was supposed to.
Otherwise I would have opted for stock paper filter, which does have much better filtration and hence better for the engine
Stick with stock filter been there done that waste of time and money.
Hi Patrick & Scott
Thanks for both of your perspectives! They are valuable- Patrick plays to my inclination to spend more- whereas Scott is coming in all sensible like!
Still like the idea of a nice panel filter- and I know they make a difference at higher altitude.... Will sit on the desire to get atrd one for the heck of it...
Pat has an emange piggy back ecu so has the car tuned for a free flowing filter unless you have something similar save your money towards a turbo/supercharger or 2zz/k20 conversion.
k20 sounds lovely..... Oh wait- HOW MUCH????!
Zunsports in. Looks so much better. Now just move my camera to another place.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160413/49233a13e12f84e51f271c267e3a1e87.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160413/b2d4a29cfb06464571bc04ed1e2aeee0.jpg)
It's that time again. Logging this here for my own info really s:) :) s:)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/b504074a1fb5642ddfa56762d9659e99.jpg)
Me too although i got the oil the last time it was on offer.
Just bought plugs and filter this time.
Oh and 3 bottles of mt90 now that was expensive.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Me too although i got the oil the last time it was on offer.
Just bought plugs and filter this time.
Oh and 3 bottles of mt90 now that was expensive.
Not doing mine as I need a new clutch soon-ish s:) :) s:) Otherwise that'd be going in as well. Love that stuff
Bugger didnt think about that i dont believe there is anything wrong with the clutch.
Touch wood.
Latest addition as my previous camera was in the way of the Zunsports grille on the rear.
This should look a bit better anyway and give a better angle.
Exact same plug as last one so easy to swap s:) :) s:)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160509/710645da5eb0bf72864f9b495e16375c.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/253c2423c8ce70e6c76016ed991e5ede.jpg)
Bought some kit for the 2 over the weekend for a smashing bulk price so...;
- front strut brace, a rare item
- a rear strut brace, ebay special
- chrome b@stard binnacle surrounds
- a little stainless softtop pull insert.
Front strut brace
It's not the one I wanted, but because it was a great deal I figured I'd buy these to see if it's worth it. Then buy the one I want.
Fitted it last night and tried this morning.
I didn't expect it to make such a difference (theme for my Reader's Ride). I actually over-turned a bit on the first sharp corner because it's far more direct. I still need to get used to it but it really makes the front react instantly to your steering input, and that's on coilovers and all!
So front brace definitely staying. Might keep this one as it's quite pretty and stealth with solid welds.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/eb9cd2e15b0b5a44fe4043f7c6442918.jpg)
Rear strut brace
Not sure I'm even going to bother fitting it. Reports on here and been that it makes no difference, and frankly it just reduces access into the engine bay. Unless someone wants to tell me different.
So, that'll be coming up for sale once I've polished it up probably.
Chrome binnacle rings
These stupid b@stard rings. I've fitted one so far. It apparently requires a lot more finesse fitting than I have. I'm going to give it one more attempt today and if it doens't work they're going in the bin and getting a new binnacle (or spraying mine gloss black, which is on the wish list as well)
Stainless soft top pull
Ding Day auction material courtesy of Andy (Reme).
All in all, yet another handling improvement to my car and confirmed again how much I absolutely love driving it. Literally every drive out in it is a joy.
Another convert to the front strut brace brigade! :-) :-) :-) You should also notice how much better it is over bumps and stuff.. less cabin shake and rattle...
3 Q's!
1 - Where did you get all the stuff??
2 - Is that front brace custom?
3 - What make is the rear brace?
I'm tempted to get the rear strut brace (Ultra racing) just because I'd have a nice white bar in the front and back!... Though I think Scott claims it actually does help the ride... maybe that's cos he bought a "proper" TRD one... s;-) ;-) s;-)
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Another convert to the front strut brace brigade! :-) :-) :-) You should also notice how much better it is over bumps and stuff.. less cabin shake and rattle...
3 Q's!
1 - Where did you get all the stuff??
2 - Is that front brace custom?
3 - What make is the rear brace?
I'm tempted to get the rear strut brace (Ultra racing) just because I'd have a nice white bar in the front and back!... Though I think Scott claims it actually does help the ride... maybe that's cos he bought a "proper" TRD one... s;-) ;-) s;-)
Oh it's fantastic. I only waited as long because I was after some Ultra Racing ones. But then there's the ebay copy at 85 quid which seems to be identical.
1) It's all stuff from a previous owner on here. He just had it sitting in his garage and couldn't be bothered to post, so as I'm nearby he just asked if I wanted it for a steal
2) He (Andy) got the front brace from Matt (MattPerformance). I don't know if he made it, asking now. Either way it's feather light (like, seriously light) and absolutely solid. Looks quite stealth too.
3) No clue about the rear brace. Haven't even had a look at it. Just grabbed it, shoved it in the boot of the Audi, and then from the Audi to the garage. It's played chrome I think with red brackets... I'll look tonight s:) :) s:)
EDIT: It's a Corky's front brace apparently.
1.) why is all the cool stuff "from a shed" up north??
2.) Niiice :-) :-) :-) At least you know it's gonna be properly made and of aluminium if the rest of his stuff is anything to go by..
3.) Chrome would make me think it's a beatrush... but the red doesn't! Would be interesting to see what you got there!
Either way you gotta fit it and at least see if there is anything to having the rear strut fitted.... other than prettiness obviously...
Quote from: "jvanzyl"1.) why is all the cool stuff "from a shed" up north??
2.) Niiice :-) :-) :-) At least you know it's gonna be properly made and of aluminium if the rest of his stuff is anything to go by..
3.) Chrome would make me think it's a beatrush... but the red doesn't! Would be interesting to see what you got there!
Either way you gotta fit it and at least see if there is anything to having the rear strut fitted.... other than prettiness obviously...
Because it's so much effort shipping stuff from up here, as it has to go through the Wall and Castle Black, that it's easier to horde and pass it on around the north.
There have been tales of the front strut making a difference, but none really of the rear doing anything. Can I be bothered to undo those extra 6 bolts? s:) :) s:)
hmmm... you know what would be interesting to do (anonymous of course) is to survey what people actually have stored up in their sheds!
You never know, you could end up with people expressing interest in what you thought was rubbish...
umm... I think it's 8 bolts?? s;-) ;-) s;-) and yes you totally can be bothered because then you'd have bragging rights the same as scotte! and you'd have an excuse to tinker then take for a "test drive" :-) :-) :-) .. it's all in the name of science really...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/992c7bae0f8e54c0f2ccfcfcf9cc2788.jpg)
Fit the rear Pat.
It takes 2 mins.
If no good you can just take it off.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Fit the rear Pat.
It takes 2 mins.
If no good you can just take it off.
translate:
"You lazy f-ing b***ard, get that brace on the rear, it takes 5 mins to put on"
Patrick,
Dont give up on your chrome rings!
I have just done my binnacle and fitted these rings and love it.
If you find them on for sale ebay, they link to a video where they show how to fit all 3 rings in about 2.5 minutes........
(You could always bring them to Ding day as plenty of handy people will be there).
Yeah I finally managed. Not wildly impressed with the fit, and I still think they should have been pre-shaped better.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/21970d6cf25dfe6b179b4cc4c09c6665.jpg)
Heh topdownman did you spray the binnacle yourself, very nice, think you now need to do the heater panel as yours is Matt silver, all in the interest of a matching set of course.
So what happened with the rear strut brace then??
Quote from: "jvanzyl"So what happened with the rear strut brace then??
Haven't done it yet s:) :) s:) Been driving the turbo the last 2 days haha. Helen's had mine
Oh dear. Come on wifey, get that turbo back, stop letting him pinch it!
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "jvanzyl"So what happened with the rear strut brace then??
Haven't done it yet s:) :) s:) Been driving the turbo the last 2 days haha. Helen's had mine
so you're saying we basically have to ask Helen to fit the brace right? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I will have you know that Helen chooses to take mine to work! Only because sitting in traffic with this flipping hardcore clutch is a nightmare, especially for her little legs.
It really is no fun. Serious dead-leg-syndrome if stuck in traffic. Whereas my clutch is so far gone you switch gears by breathing on the clutch
Where did you get the rear camera/number plate holder from, is it a particularly good one?
Thanks
Quote from: "lamcote"Where did you get the rear camera/number plate holder from, is it a particularly good one?
Thanks
It's an eBay special. I'm quite pleased with it to be honest. The camera is cheap as crap but the license plate holder isn't cheap or thin.
15 quid isn't bad. The camera aims down nicely so you're more likely to see obstacles and has a decent field of view.
Wouldn't say it's amazing, but it's 15 quid and definitely gets the job done
Hey Pat, good progress with the car. Does the camera have its own screen or plug into a head unit?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "CrazySX"Hey Pat, good progress with the car. Does the camera have its own screen or plug into a head unit?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Separate screen i bought off fleabay.
camera is item 141916510699
screen is a separate item mounted in my glovebox, item 181729614909. Well, not that exact one but it's just a generic one that looks identical.
The original camera I bought was 5 quid off ebay like this one 191872256809. So for less than 20 quid I had a reversing camera. Not bad I'd say
Or you could just learn to reverse.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Or you could just learn to reverse.
TTE spoiler makes it very hard to see out the back as it blocks the little visibility you;ve got in the 2. Especially Helen, she relies on the camera to park backwards because she's too little to see over the spoiler s:) :) s:)
It does help a lot
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "CrazySX"Hey Pat, good progress with the car. Does the camera have its own screen or plug into a head unit?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Separate screen i bought off fleabay.
camera is item 141916510699
screen is a separate item mounted in my glovebox, item 181729614909. Well, not that exact one but it's just a generic one that looks identical.
The original camera I bought was 5 quid off ebay like this one 191872256809. So for less than 20 quid I had a reversing camera. Not bad I'd say
Sounds pretty cool! Where did you run the cable through to the cabin from the back?
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "1979scotte"Or you could just learn to reverse.
TTE spoiler makes it very hard to see out the back as it blocks the little visibility you;ve got in the 2. Especially Helen, she relies on the camera to park backwards because she's too little to see over the spoiler s:) :) s:)
It does help a lot
Get her a cushion?
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Sounds pretty cool! Where did you run the cable through to the cabin from the back?
Tis easy, there's a handy rubber bung that the ECU harness comes through. Just tap into there and it comes out in the passenger cubby hole. Then just pull the wire along the door sill and under the carpet to the radio wiring
umm... ok so the wire is going from the camera on the rear number plate, and it comes into the car via the rubber bung where the ECU lives...
I take it this wire is running along the underside of the car between these two points? and I'm assuming the ecu is in somewhere on the passenger side?
Haha. Ok, so the wire goes from the rear bumper, past the light, behind the battery and through the big rubber grommet. This comes out next to the ecu, which is against the back wall on the passenger side cubby hole. Then fed the wire under the door sills and under the carpet to behind the radio.
The screen is cut into the glove compartment door and the wire goes behind the glove compartment and behind the radio where it connects with the video cable and the power from the cig lighter.
On order I have a video input switch.
Reason for that is I am going to mount my old camera under the bumper facing right. That way, no more blind junctions for me s:) :) s:)
I just flick the switch and the world around the corner presents itself to me.
Then I can get really greedy and get another cam and put it under the bumper facing left s:) :) s:)
ahhh... gotcha! Sounds cool!
Would be good to see a pic of the screen working - I'd be totally chicken to actually cut my glove box!
When wiring in my screen aerial I "Found" a blue wire that had 12V and used that... however now I can't charge something and get radio reception at the same time! doh! Will try and find the cig lighter one!
Haha. Bad choice of wiring. Ciggie lighter is easiest. It's right there!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160520/d0ce4e29e62c29247ab30afafa46e732.jpg)
Sealant looks a bit messy at the moment but that panel will hopefully be flocked soon
Lookie what just arrived
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160520/99097a9c568daa8c2f4c18d41ba40ab0.jpg)
Oh and this went in: rear strut brace (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160520/60528470f47bd9f61871dc9cf68058ef.jpg)
ah brilliant! So?? what's the consensus on the rear strut brace? any detectable difference?
Like the screen - I read the blurb on the eBay item number you gave for the screen, it says it turns on automatically...any ideas how? Before I attempt to do it, I just want to know if there is anything else I'd need to wire in (given my success with the windscreen aerial!).
Quote from: "jvanzyl"ah brilliant! So?? what's the consensus on the rear strut brace? any detectable difference?
Like the screen - I read the blurb on the eBay item number you gave for the screen, it says it turns on automatically...any ideas how? Before I attempt to do it, I just want to know if there is anything else I'd need to wire in (given my success with the windscreen aerial!).
The verdict on the rear strut is that it does absolutely sweet bugger all. Maybe because I'm already on the BCs. But no, nothing at all worth mentioning. THe back was a bit more skittish if anything, so the struts are possible a bit too stiff for the grand roads of Northumberland.
THe screen turns on when it detects a video feed. That way the screen isn't always on, unless your camera is. Most people will wire their camera in so that it comes on with the reversing lights. That's when the screen will turn on. Mine is wired into a ignition live, so it's on all the time, which means the screen is on all the time. I'll probably rewire this
ah... so I'm hearing "buy it!" it's totally worth it! you neeeed a rear strut brace. s;-) ;-) s;-)
Thanks for the explanation on the reversing camera... now I gotta do is look up the reversing lights wire/power location :-) :-) :-) If I find it I'll let you know. I'm off to a breaker guy tomorrow and may see if he wants to part with his glove box cover....
Quote from: "jvanzyl"ah... so I'm hearing "buy it!" it's totally worth it! you neeeed a rear strut brace. s;-) ;-) s;-)
Thanks for the explanation on the reversing camera... now I gotta do is look up the reversing lights wire/power location :-) :-) :-) If I find it I'll let you know. I'm off to a breaker guy tomorrow and may see if he wants to part with his glove box cover....
s:D :D s:D Don't worry about it! Just get a dremel, or a drill and a hacksaw and go for it. Measure 3x, cut 1x.
There are much cleaner ways to mount the screen than I did. I just cut a hole, fit the screen in and siliconed it in.
Better would be if you fashioned some brackets cut the hole perfectly to size.
Didn't expect to win this but glad I did as I found my subframe to be in a bad way
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/ba0b62c394ea2ee73215e5ca805e36b4.jpg)
As part of my MOT (failed first time on a sodding numberplate bulb), the headlights needed alignment.
Quite a difference! Let that be a lesson to those who lower their 2s. The headlights need to be aimed up. Get it done.
Seems before and after pic, notice the beam on the wall
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/cccb772a920cb2d6d2e46414c9027fc7.jpg)
Decided that I was sick of looking at rusty calipers and discs. So even though the wheels are still an utter clip and desperately need replacing with the TD Pro 1.2s I have in the pipeline, I figured I'd give them a bit of a "good from far, far from good" coating.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160701/5090e253e006d9c4562ff9dd8faddb78.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160701/1dbaa31c83c90d47e83abd7bd18dbc7e.jpg)
AAAAAGH!
You've just painted them the same colour I was going to do! s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "tricky1138"AAAAAGH!
You've just painted them the same colour I was going to do! s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:( :( s:(
No problemo s:) :) s:) Mine are going darker soon anyway so you can have this colour hehe.
The aim is to match my blue JDM badges
That clutch is going to have to go in soon-ish. On the little run around we had on Saturday I was in 3rd at about 4k rpm heading up a small incline, shifted to 4th and put foot down.....sslllliiiiiiiiiiipppppp. The smell...oh the smell... So, note to self, clutch is now too far gone to handle the enormous torque the stock MR2 provides in 4th at around 3k rpm haha.
Another day, another challenge.
Heard a ticking noise when I pulled in today after a brisk drive back home.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/0eb0d8b7b1653f7cabbaee466ed48d9f.jpg)
Not sure when it happened but the evidence suggests that the aux belt was a bit knackered and a threads came loose.
The thread wrapped around the driveshaft and ripped off a sliver of belt which then whipped into the chain tensioner shock absorber, smashing the plastic casing, to the be ripped off and flung into the engine bay.
New belt time.
Another job done. Simples but a bit tedious.
The belt had lost two entire ribs!
Check your belts people.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/b267168aef00ba19d3302243d1d8b299.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/2251acc81f79f214260b5b6c0891deca.jpg)
Patrick,
Where can this belt be found? I'm not very good with Engines. This whole oil chain thing scares the bejeezus out of me tbh!
Oil chain thing? Hehe. Err..
Timing chain?
Wouldn't worry about the timing chain. It's nicely hidden away and is unlikely to break.
This is the belt that sits on the right of the engine that drives your alternator, air conditioning.. Etc. Its rubber, reinforced but not bulletproof.
I'd recommend changing it at 60k. For the sake of 15 quid and 45 mins of your time tops... No brainer. Especially as it prevents what happens to me s:) :) s:)
Sorry, was tired s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
The Timing Chain Tensioner was the bit I was thinking of that leaks oil.
It seems to happen to some people and not others.
The other one was the Thermostat that new member Slice mentioned. That sounds like an absolute pig of a job.
Quote from: "The Other Stu"Sorry, was tired s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
The Timing Chain Tensioner was the bit I was thinking of that leaks oil.
It seems to happen to some people and not others.
The other one was the Thermostat that new member Slice mentioned. That sounds like an absolute pig of a job.
Ha no problem. I'm tired lately as well..odd.
Timing chain tensioner is a doddle. It's the "listen for the click" part that's a bit scary because everything starts to sound like a click, and then you don't know whether it's THE click and you're safe or it's another click and you're going to destroy your engine haha.
The leak is going to happen at some point. It's just a little rubber seal that inevitably stops sealing. Really is a case of two bolts, pulling out hte tensioner, replacing the ring, pushing down the piston and clipping the little hook over the pin. Then sliding it back in, tightening it, and turning the crank until you hear the click. Turning the crank is a lot easier than it sounds, just a big socket on the end of the crank pulley and push s:) :) s:)
The whole thing shouldn't take more than 15 mins. No access issues.
As for the belt, access is a bit crappier, but the only thing you need to remove is the catch can ( black oval box on the right). The two hoses just pull out and then it lifts straight out. No bolts.
Then it's a case of long monkey arms to get the belt around the bottom pulleys. It looks a lot worse than it is. You can do the crank pulley (big bottom one) blind. Just reach down and feel for the ribs and run the belt over it. If you do it with two people it's a tiiiiiny bit easier physically. One person to push the breaker bar and remove tension on the idler, and the other puts the belt over the idler.
thermostat is a pig, but only because of where it is. Nightmare. Luckily I;ve only ever seen two threads on here of thermostat issues.
I've done the text for the how to; pics and vids to follow. They do clear things up so wait if you can s:) :) s:)
l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=59515 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=59515) l
Just a quick note Pat. Turning the crank is easier than that. Just put the car in 4th gear, handbrake off and rock the car back now forth s;) ;) s;)
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "CrazySX"Just a quick note Pat. Turning the crank is easier than that. Just put the car in 4th gear, handbrake off and rock the car back now forth s;) ;) s;)
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Haha was going to mention that but I didn't want people forgetting to put it in gear and shoving their car through the garage door
As my aircon was doing sweet bugg3r all I thought an AC recharge was in order.
It was.
Less than 100g was in the system before evacuation. Filled with 470g.
Blows out some chilly air now!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/0186998ab6a3cd2874083c46823a98ac.jpg)
Swapped in a Celica seat to try it out for a while.
So far so good. Just a shame the Celica seats just don't look anywhere near as good as my stock seats.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/8e9cb2ebb9656fa513434e189c2e2db1.jpg)
Spent 15 mins on some little odd jobs.
Swapped my gear shift cage with one from Alex Knight which had a chopped lever. Makes it sit a bit lower and I swear the throw feels shorter, but that could be my imagination. Added more to the "sporty" feel.
Took out the maxipad sun visors and replaced with DIY blanks. Need to get some nice stickers for the blanks
So aside from the Team Dynamics 1.2 which will be coming not too long from now.
Any recommended mods?
I'm running out of ideas s:) :) s:)
The Celica seats are just in there because I can't be bothered to remove them yet, but they are coming out.
Just wondering what other smaller mods to handling or styling I can do. Particularly handling
Tpms?
Sent from my XT1072 using Tapatalk
Retrim...? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Mondo"Retrim...? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
How about one of those tonneau covers?
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Tpms?
Sent from my XT1072 using Tapatalk
It's on the list. But it may indeed be the next mod.
Order of things to come so far is:
- New front bumper (with a lot less stone chips)
- New front tyres on new wheels (Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2, 15x6.5, 16x7). Maybe after next point.
- Visit Steve at D1 Customs to fit subframe, new LUK clutch, new toe bolts in rear, camber bolts, and a proper alignment with a bit of camber in the rear dialed in.
- Service and brake fluid change for 5.1.
- Fix rear view camera. Potentially with new screen location, as I'm not a fan of where I put it. So need new glove compartment lid
- Hardwire kit for dashcam. Just to tidy up the wiring a bit
- TPMS
- Flock spare center console without seat heating switches and swap with existing one. Move seat heating switches to alarm/coin slot by steering wheel.
- Flock other parts of car
Quote from: "Mondo"Retrim...? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I wish!!! I'd absolutely love the dash covered in leather. And my door cars are desperate for a retrim
Quote from: "jvanzyl"How about one of those tonneau covers?
I really like those, but it would only ever come out on days when the roof was going to remain down. This is not often.
Twin turbo v6?
Quote from: "1979scotte"Twin turbo v6?
I'll put that on the bottom of the list permanently s:) :) s:) If it's ever the only thing on the list, I'll do it haha
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "1979scotte"Twin turbo v6?
I'll put that on the bottom of the list permanently s:) :) s:) If it's ever the only thing on the list, I'll do it haha
Have a word with guy martin he may have a spare one.
The team dynamic wheels will be 7" fronts too as they dont do a 6.5".
Also not seeing anything on the list about colour coded mudflaps.....
Quote from: "Topdownman"The team dynamic wheels will be 7" fronts too as they dont do a 6.5".
Also not seeing anything on the list about colour coded mudflaps.....
Ah, I was going off Helen's MonzaRs which are 6.5 front. Figured they'd do the same for 1.2s.
Forgot about those damn mud flaps haha
Have you got a coloured roof on that mod list?
Quote from: "barry1783"Have you got a coloured roof on that mod list?
Tough call as black interior !
Quote from: "barry1783"Have you got a coloured roof on that mod list?
It isn't actually. I can;'t think of what color I'd go for if I did change. If my roof were to need replacing, to be completely frank I think i'd just want a black vinyl replacement from another MR2.
Mohair is nice, but the upkeep is harder.
Jack's from Swansea are very nice roofs. I'd consider these, but the quality (as good as it is), isn't what I'd be after for a new roof. The synthetic/natural mix of the roof does appeal to me for upkeep though.
Quote from: "bernie11a"Tough call as black interior !
This. Really the only option is black. Either that, or a dark blue, the same as the blue on the JDM badges. I think I'd get sick of the latter though
Quote from: "shnazzle"The synthetic/natural mix of the roof does appeal to me for upkeep though.
I've covered that base !
m http://gtechniq.com/products/auto/perfe ... art-fabric (http://gtechniq.com/products/auto/perfect/exterior/paint/i1-smart-fabric) m
m https://youtu.be/A9-mR4eprQk (https://youtu.be/A9-mR4eprQk) m
THis is true s:) :) s:) And I don't ever park under trees etc. I think it has happened twice since I;ve owned MR2s
Attempt 46 to get connected to my emanage today.
Borrowed a winXP laptop and went for it with both my cable and AndyM's... No luck.
Anybody have a cable I can borrow that they know for a fact works? If that works, I'll know that the cable is the issue.
I'll see if i can find mine
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"I'll see if i can find mine
Ta. Muchly appreciated
First of the LEDs came in today.
It's a very unnatural light, but it's miles better than the crappy standard festoon.
Much lighter in the interior now.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/b5f7b839ae1667f857551705e5758a1d.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/b0fe4228aeacd5f04ba1db946cded30b.jpg)
What are you doing in there that a clear cover doesnt sort for you?
I think the clear cover looks naff. Personal opinion. So, this has the same effect while keeping the pretty smoked cover s:) :) s:)
Who cares what it looks like?!
You Dutch are such a scruffy bunch usually.
Not I. Have you seen what an utter sex machine I am???
Hehe
Quote from: "shnazzle"Not I. Have you seen what an utter sex machine I am???
Hehe
Oh good lord!!! Did you forget I'm on here?
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "HereComesTheWife"Quote from: "shnazzle"Not I. Have you seen what an utter sex machine I am???
Hehe
Oh good lord!!! Did you forget I'm on here?
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
No
Hahaha . Helen you should know that he's talks rubbish at times . has he been on the Stroh?
Quote from: "HereComesTheWife"Quote from: "shnazzle"Not I. Have you seen what an utter sex machine I am???
Hehe
Oh good lord!!! Did you forget I'm on here?
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Becoming a male model has obviously gone to his head...
Quote from: "mulaz"Hahaha . Helen you should know that he's talks rubbish at times . has he been on the Stroh?
He's been on something! Bliddy sex machine, he ha ha
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Didn't realise there were so many bulbs...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161029/46b5d08cb5bb1873440b2e2b299cb32b.jpg)
Success!! Took some fiddling as it doesn't show the polarity on the LED or the bulb holder. So had to switch a few around while it was plugged in.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161029/a795088c74c92aa8cfd46552b12dd8f0.jpg)
Oh and for those who wondered... Yes they do dim when you use the dimmer wheel
Quote from: "shnazzle"I think the clear cover looks naff. Personal opinion. So, this has the same effect while keeping the pretty smoked cover s:) :) s:)
(https://img.buzzfeed.com/buzzfeed-static/static/2015-03/26/19/enhanced/webdr06/enhanced-25942-1427414324-7.jpg)
Mine is like a disco inside
Proud first owner of widermuller alloy Lotus-style console upright covers.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/2aa98212159d5967baa830c65eb569ea.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/baa7d9ce78e41735a91c2eef42309c12.jpg)
Had to read it a few times before i realised what you were on about.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Had to read it a few times before i realised what you were on about.
Added another pic for clarity
Finally, after over a year, I have finally managed to connect to my emanage blue!
good times.
I extracted the map. So, anybody want it? s:) :) s:)
It's a very simple map with adjustments based purely on Throttle position and engine speed.
No airflow adjustments, just injector and ignition. Quite surprised to see a pretty decent additional dump of fuel from 70% throttle onwards until about 4500 rpm. same for timing
me! me! pick me! .. :-) :-) :-) ... having said that.. the maps that Lee provided me with the open loop thing.. I'd have to merge those wouldn't I?
Quote from: "jvanzyl"me! me! pick me! .. :-) :-) :-) ... having said that.. the maps that Lee provided me with the open loop thing.. I'd have to merge those wouldn't I?
Yes indeed. It seems my map does adjust ignition timing in the closed loop period. Which I assume will all be lost once the ECU compensates for it.
Fueling doesn't start until 50% throttle. Which I guess is around where the car goes into open loop.
So if you had the box of tricks from Lee then you could tweak the fueling map prior to 50% throttle. Having said that...do you want to? Maybe there's a good reason why Noble didn't.
What I'd be really interested in now is to log OBD2 and the emanage at the same time and overlay them, after an ECU reset. And then after a period of driving once to see if the long term fuel trims are indeed overwriting the adjustments that the emanage is doing.
I drove to some private land ...you know...that big air field around here... And did an in-gear pull from say about 1500rpm to 6000+. I need to find a way to export the data because I can't do shizzle in the tool itself.
[attachment=0:2qmjs8se] ia0 Map.PNG ia0 [/attachment:2qmjs8se]
[attachment=0:2l04lscn] ia0 emanage_settings.PNG ia0 [/attachment:2l04lscn]
Initial analysis; I'm missing 1% throttle! Mine maxes out at 99% when I have my foot down. Need to calibrate the throttle voltages to my car. There's an overlooked little are from using a file from someone else's car. Having said that, when I analyse the run yesterday, it does seem to "pad" the values a bit. So at 4150rpm it uses the 4000rpm map column, but at 4250 it uses the 4500rpm map column.
Likewise, at 99% throttle, it uses the 100% mapping. So I'm assuming I'm not losing anything with regards to the map. Unless it means that if the value at 100% is 7.0% increase in fueling for example, then I'm only reaching 6.93% increase... hmm
Anybody?
The other thing I don't understand, and this is also visible on the graph for timing at full throttle; timing is 4deg at 4000rpm byt then drops to 3deg at 4500 and back to 4deg at 5000.... I can't imagine why this drop is necessary?
Another funny thing.
Fueling; at 100% throttle I should see between 7 and 9% rise in fueling at between 3500rpm and 6000rpm. But the data log shows 3% increase across the rev range from about 3750rpm to 6000rpm.
That should be open loop, so can't be ecu compensating...
[attachment=0:2kbpebu4] ia0 fueling_odd.PNG ia0 [/attachment:2kbpebu4]
Latest addition. Some camber bolts for the rear. Want to experiment in the summer with running about -1.5 degrees camber and remove the rear anti roll bar.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/449d753d40913edf1afb0f0bf1200006.jpg)
That's all really interesting. Can you get an ignition and injection map off showing charts with MAF output v Revs rather than TPS v Revs?
I'm amazed at how much fuel is being added based on the common view that the 1zz runs quite rich as standard.
Peak torque is 4,400rpm. This is when the engine is at max efficiency so cylinder filling will be at its most effective for the higher rev range, producing the highest BMEP figure (c.172 psi), therefore reduced advance may well be required for that, (despite the higher revs at that point). At lower revs, although the cylinder filling is less effective, the revs are also lower, cancelling each other out.
Don't forget the LTFT will affect the higher rev range even in open loop, if it has been set to reduce fuelling based on the closed loop feedback it will be cutting fuelling everywhere.
Ignition timing will not be compensated for by the ECU whether in closed or open loop so will stay at whatever the remap sets it at.
What rear and front camber do you have at the moment?
Hard to say. It was aligned last when I got coilovers settled in. So, a good while ago. At that point they were at -1.03 and -1.12. Who knows now.
I'd want to try 2.0 neg for fun s:) :) s:)
My seized toe bolt will be sorted when I get the new subframe and toe bolts in in January.
Then an alignment with the camber bolts in.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/87009ca3e87cdafcad39d909710edf44.jpg)
If you go -2 deg at the rear will you leave the front as they are? What tyre pressures and sizes do you run?
I'll prob bring front down to -1.
Tyres are AD08Rs, 195 front and 225 rear. Usually about 29 front and 31 rear
Why do you want to change your current setup? Looks quite nice to me, other than the seized toe link.
I feel like there isn't enough "give" in the rear. Hence the removal of the ARB.
And the front has a tendency to lose grip on hard cornering so maybe a bit of extra camber helps
The setup as-is is very good but the rear feels a bit too snappy. It feels like the outside rear tyre isn't gripping all it can on bends, so want to try some camber.
I'll go into a corner, choose my speed and line, dig in and then often I need to throttle a bit to put a bit of weight on the rear. But at that point, the front starts to go so I have to trail-brake a bit.
All of this is only evident about 5% of my total drive time all year, but curiosity has the better of me so I want to see if I can get it spot on
EDIT: I've tried altering tyre pressures. Going lower in the rear ruined communication and raising the front made it much worse. Won't go any softer than about 26 in the front. Even that's a bit too soft. 29 seems a good compromise for turn-in, economy, life and grip
I'm sure the toe out at the back left will be contributing significantly to the snappy rear. Once you get that sorted you may well be very happy with setup as is? Lots of rear camber may well then leave you quite understeery, especially so if you remove the rear ARB.
The two pressure adjustments you mention (lower at rear/higher at front) would both contribute to greater oversteer.
The toe definitely needs fixing. But that doesn't seem to be the whole picture. In any case i:ll try it. If. It's no good. Back it goes s:) :) s:)
Front subframe of the two below is ready to go in a couple of weeks. Look forward to it... Not.
Got some track arms in an impressive state from our friend Matt. And brand new camber bolts. They'll all be going on.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/0526e644137e37bb454e60bd8692b83c.jpg)
And a new toy from from our own Steve (widermuller).
Door pull kit in chrome.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/cee72674b37fe7892a69d65cdc39957c.jpg)
Top quality fabrication as usual
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/6ec124b3b7481e44c646bc64fe712307.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/5b6d38a0cf9f7e3f0ba7ef50dc6fa020.jpg)
Door pulls in. They look so much better than I thought.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170116/529d61bd6f406d390c14d41d68274eaa.jpg)
Love it, great stuff!
Good shout on those. I've added them and managed to sort out the tracking for good. Saves a fortune on getting adjustable camber arms.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Latest addition. Some camber bolts for the rear. Want to experiment in the summer with running about -1.5 degrees camber and remove the rear anti roll bar.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/449d753d40913edf1afb0f0bf1200006.jpg)
Loved the how-to. Looking forward to some carbon bling for mine s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "shnazzle"Door pulls in. They look so much better than I thought.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170116/529d61bd6f406d390c14d41d68274eaa.jpg)
I always thought those and the CF ones look to skinny. Need to be fatter with tapered ends to look good. And now u have finger prints to worry about lol!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "CrazySX"I always thought those and the CF ones look to skinny. Need to be fatter with tapered ends to look good. And now u have finger prints to worry about lol!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
the fingerprints will drive me nuts s:) :) s:) Other than that, I love it
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "CrazySX"I always thought those and the CF ones look to skinny. Need to be fatter with tapered ends to look good. And now u have finger prints to worry about lol!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
the fingerprints will drive me nuts s:) :) s:) Other than that, I love it
Fair enough buddy, long as they put a grin on your face that's all that matters.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
you have a really good looking car mate s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "Gatouzze"you have a really good looking car mate s;) ;) s;)
Thanks! Appreciate the comments s:) :) s:)
So it seems any and all performance mods are on hold as I've signed up for a leather interior retrim later this year.
There go my car funds. For the year.
It'll get its services and required repairs and that's about it.
Having said that, true to form I'm kind of going off both 2zz and turbo so, no worries there. I could do with spending some time this year cleaning up the interior.
Tidying up wiring. Adding some fuses. Getting my reverse cam working. Playing around with some fibreglass. Etc.
New clutch, subframe and camber bolts going in this month. And my front struts need turning around a bit as I mounted them incorrectly last year.
So there are my car plans for 2017 s:) :) s:) Basically, maintenance and interior.
Engine now sitting at 73k so she's still a young'n anyway
You can always 2zz it later. Leather re-trim is not a bad idea s:D :D s:D
I'm doing steering wheel and door cards this year, along with all the many 2zz mods and other exciting things s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Quote from: "shnazzle"So it seems any and all performance mods are on hold as I've signed up for a leather interior retrim later this year.
There go my car funds. For the year.
It'll get its services and required repairs and that's about it.
Having said that, true to form I'm kind of going off both 2zz and turbo so, no worries there. I could do with spending some time this year cleaning up the interior.
Tidying up wiring. Adding some fuses. Getting my reverse cam working. Playing around with some fibreglass. Etc.
New clutch, subframe and camber bolts going in this month. And my front struts need turning around a bit as I mounted them incorrectly last year.
So there are my car plans for 2017 s:) :) s:) Basically, maintenance and interior.
Engine now sitting at 73k so she's still a young'n anyway
Well there's plenty miles left on my engine. And truth be told, I've always been attracted to building out the 1zz. Kind of along the line so Bernie's or Tommyzoom's car. Maybe not as extreme as Tommy's.
That sentiment has never gone away, whereas my 2zz and turbo thoughts have come and gone.
And truth be told, the only way I'd do the 2zz build would set me back about 4.5k, which is the same as I'd put a turbo on for, and 4.5k would go a very very long way towards rebuilding the 1zz with some extra kit. Possibly less.
The realisation that 2zz is not the best bang for buck for a daily driver is sinking in. And turbo adds complications, reliability issues, etc.
Built 1zz in the other hand...
We'll see what 2018+ brings s:) :) s:)
In essence engine wise
Crower Stage 1 Cams (Monkey Wrench USA).
Fidanza lightweight flywheel
Zero - 4 into 2 Equal Length, tuned collector, Manifold SS.
Silverstone Performance De-cat pipe, fitted with 200 CEL Sports Cat.
Blueflame Custom Twin Exhaust.
PPE Cold Air Induction system
Apexi Power FC (ECU) with Commander hand controller
Remap
As you say improved stock engine @ 171BHP maintained properly has usability & reliability and enough go
I've had it nearly 4 years no problems at all
Yup that's the puppy.
I'd be curious how much flatter the torque curve could be made by adding Stg2 cams and stiffer valve springs. Would prob need to raise the limiter a bit.
But then there's idling issues apparently. But that was my goal for 2zz
Torque curve is pretty flat !
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170125/81a1d77aa5caffab8796525ac1578149.jpg)
That is indeed quite a nice curve.... Probably not worth the hassle then for potentially an additional 5hp
You can have a try at Ding Day :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "bernie11a"You can have a try at Ding Day :-) :-) :-)
Oooohh s:) :) s:) you're on
more than happy to take you out in mine at ding day if you want to see how it feels also, the torque curve is pretty flat as well seems a good trait of the 1zz, our hits 145-150 lbft form about 3.5k all the way to 7.25k
cheers tommy
Much appreciated. Yours is probably more work than I could ever afford, but it would be good to drive Bernie's and yours back to back to see what the extra "bit" does
Quote from: "shnazzle"Much appreciated. Yours is probably more work than I could ever afford, but it would be good to drive Bernie's and yours back to back to see what the extra "bit" does
I've always believed NA tuning is better in these cars, which is why I'm not that in favour of Rotrexing mine in a couple of years anymore. But obviously, reliability and user-friendliness is key rather than trying to squeeze that last Nm of torque.
Indeed. I mean, don't get me wrong, I love the torque of Helen's car. Especially when it's on full boost.
But it has been a bit of a headache since we got it, and it's still not right. And it's going to take upwards of 500+ quid to get it to see max boost again. It's what you sign up for when you go modified.
This is less so the case when you keep the stock engine and uprate a few components,...I think. Obviously tuning it more to the limits of its capabilities always brings reliability issues. But nothing compared to shoving 10psi of boost through it when it normally sees none
Quote from: "shnazzle"Much appreciated. Yours is probably more work than I could ever afford, but it would be good to drive Bernie's and yours back to back to see what the extra "bit" does
yeah no problem at all, im sure Bernie's is much more refined than mine from what i seen from his build, you wouldn't want to drive mine everyday s:D :D s:D but it was built like that for a reason s:D :D s:D i might see if Bernie is willing to take me for a spin in his on ding day also, be good to see what its like.
cheers tommy
Quote from: "shnazzle"Indeed. I mean, don't get me wrong, I love the torque of Helen's car. Especially when it's on full boost.
But it has been a bit of a headache since we got it, and it's still not right. And it's going to take upwards of 500+ quid to get it to see max boost again. It's what you sign up for when you go modified.
This is less so the case when you keep the stock engine and uprate a few components,...I think. Obviously tuning it more to the limits of its capabilities always brings reliability issues. But nothing compared to shoving 10psi of boost through it when it normally sees none
Every car has its issues. It's what you believe you're prepared to live with. I couldn't deal with the 1zz anymore, especially now that it's given up.
Quote from: "tommyzoom99"Quote from: "shnazzle"Much appreciated. Yours is probably more work than I could ever afford, but it would be good to drive Bernie's and yours back to back to see what the extra "bit" does
yeah no problem at all, I'm sure Bernie's is much more refined than mine from what i seen from his build, you wouldn't want to drive mine everyday s:D :D s:D but it was built like that for a reason s:D :D s:D i might see if Bernie is willing to take me for a spin in his on ding day also, be good to see what its like.
cheers tommy
No probs Tommy form an orderly queue :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "bernie11a"Quote from: "tommyzoom99"Quote from: "shnazzle"Much appreciated. Yours is probably more work than I could ever afford, but it would be good to drive Bernie's and yours back to back to see what the extra "bit" does
yeah no problem at all, I'm sure Bernie's is much more refined than mine from what i seen from his build, you wouldn't want to drive mine everyday s:D :D s:D but it was built like that for a reason s:D :D s:D i might see if Bernie is willing to take me for a spin in his on ding day also, be good to see what its like.
cheers tommy
No probs Tommy form an orderly queue :-) :-) :-)
s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D it looks that way, its your own fault for having such a nice 2 s:D :D s:D more than welcome to come for a blast in mine s:) :) s:)
cheers tommy
Quote from: "tommyzoom99"Quote from: "bernie11a"Quote from: "tommyzoom99"yeah no problem at all, I'm sure Bernie's is much more refined than mine from what i seen from his build, you wouldn't want to drive mine everyday s:D :D s:D but it was built like that for a reason s:D :D s:D i might see if Bernie is willing to take me for a spin in his on ding day also, be good to see what its like.
cheers tommy
No probs Tommy form an orderly queue :-) :-) :-)
s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D it looks that way, its your own fault for having such a nice 2 s:D :D s:D more than welcome to come for a blast in mine s:) :) s:)
cheers tommy
Thanks Tommy would be rude not to !
Quote from: "shnazzle"It's what you sign up for when you go modified.
Rarely is anything said or written about performance/ modded cars that can't be refuted. Your comment is one of those rare ones.
I still think the modded ones are worthwhile!
Very true. No matter how much an improvement you make over stock, you'll still have issues; as mentioned above, it's what you decide you can live with.
Quote from: "MR TWO"Quote from: "shnazzle"It's what you sign up for when you go modified.
Rarely is anything said or written about performance/ modded cars that can't be refuted. Your comment is one of those rare ones.
I still think the modded ones are worthwhile!
Beautiful gear changes, clutch bite and power delivery thanks to the new LUK clutch put in today with mulaz.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/e652e93479a41e0853a62dae5fa137cf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/9938356e24cb71c63b17738a61a69b1a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/395e7fb418f96a2f0a8a326117e9a2bd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/06b7998c7ed9f4c38a42ae4f8d10b713.jpg)
Sweet! Judging from the pics, it didn't come with clutch cover plate and possibly release bearing?
Quote from: "shnazzle"Beautiful gear changes, clutch bite and power delivery thanks to the new LUK clutch put in today with mulaz.
IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/e652e93479a41e0853a62dae5fa137cf.jpg[/IMG]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/9938356e24cb71c63b17738a61a69b1a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/395e7fb418f96a2f0a8a326117e9a2bd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/06b7998c7ed9f4c38a42ae4f8d10b713.jpg)
That's the old one mate s:) :) s:)
If I fits, I sits (http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/facebook/000/292/573/0c2.jpg) s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "shnazzle"That's the old one mate s:) :) s:)
While that is smashing..... What?
2nd clutch change with Patrick in 3 weeks was a doddle ... we knocked 4 hours off the time it took to do my clutch
Have to say its not a job to take on lightly unless you have had past experience working on motors
The best part is we have saved a fortune between us and gained lots of MR2 clutch knowledge and i hope he doesn't mind me saying i have made a good friend s:D :D s:D
Agreed, it's not an easy job
Thank god I did it on the 2zz while it was off the car s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Did you use the "huge bolt and loads of masking tape" trick to lock it in place?
Quote from: "mulaz"2nd clutch change with Patrick in 3 weeks was a doddle ... we knocked 4 hours off the time it took to do my clutch
Have to say its not a job to take on lightly unless you have had past experience working on motors
The best part is we have saved a fortune between us and gained lots of MR2 clutch knowledge and i hope he doesn't mind me saying i have made a good friend s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "mulaz"2nd clutch change with Patrick in 3 weeks was a doddle ... we knocked 4 hours off the time it took to do my clutch
Have to say its not a job to take on lightly unless you have had past experience working on motors
The best part is we have saved a fortune between us and gained lots of MR2 clutch knowledge and i hope he doesn't mind me saying i have made a good friend s:D :D s:D
Don't mind you saying at all. Echoed right back at you!
The job is indeed not one I would recommend a total novice to do. I've done a fair bit of fettling but Ian's experience over mine did show and I've learned a fair bit about general mechanics and engineering.
Let this be a lesson kids.
"Petey: oh, my subframe is fine! Looked at it from the engine bay. No holes! Safe! "
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/afcac22289dd1b97afe78f83ad33c8ac.jpg)
"Frank: But Petey, have you checked underneath?"
(some time later)
"Petey: I've checked underneath now Frank. All is not well. Time to put the new one in"
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/7e82feb35accb338413d3564e8d5b162.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/97985ffd0664da287dd5f3eac2fd577a.jpg)
WHAAAAAAAAAAA? s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
Definitely having a good look at mine now I'm about to drop the engine off. Just not prepared to pay £300 to MR2BEN or Toyota for a new one s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Quote from: "shnazzle"Let this be a lesson kids.
"Petey: oh, my subframe is fine! Looked at it from the engine bay. No holes! Safe! "
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/afcac22289dd1b97afe78f83ad33c8ac.jpg)
"Frank: But Petey, have you checked underneath?"
(some time later)
"Petey: I've checked underneath now Frank. All is not well. Time to put the new one in"
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/7e82feb35accb338413d3564e8d5b162.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/97985ffd0664da287dd5f3eac2fd577a.jpg)
Quote from: "manos3003"WHAAAAAAAAAAA? s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
Definitely having a good look at mine now I'm about to drop the engine off. Just not prepared to pay £300 to MR2BEN or Toyota for a new one s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Buy cheap, buy twice.
Just sayin
The specimen above was 150 quid s:) :) s:)
Buy smart s;) ;) s;)
The other one I bought (and sold) was 120... Including 2 good toe bolts (40ish quid new) and 2 good rear trailing arms (a small fortune new).
Deals can be had, but make sure that it's a good one! A powder coat does not a solid subframe make
I like the Yoda mannerism there s:P :P s:P
True, you need to look well before you buy.
Quote from: "shnazzle"The specimen above was 150 quid s:) :) s:)
Buy smart s;) ;) s;)
The other one I bought (and sold) was 120... Including 2 good toe bolts (40ish quid new) and 2 good rear trailing arms (a small fortune new).
Deals can be had, but make sure that it's a good one! A powder coat does not a solid subframe make
Full alignment with new camber bolts set to -2deg in the rear.
Full handling review later when it's warmer/drier
Also, can unequivocally say that I really really don't like the look of M X 5s. Horrible. Never been around so many.
The garage (AK Automotive) specialise in them, but say they do a hell of a lot of work on other cars such as Subaru, Clios, rtv
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/e39240196490776ddeae42742744ae09.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/5a35866e402bdad2f732865fe821ac04.jpg)
First impressions of -2 rear camber:
... Not sure...
It's hard to explain, it feels like you're not sitting in the middle of the car anymore,but in between the rear wheels.
The rear of the car properly digs into a corner, so there is absolutely no doubt that rear cornering grip has improved.
At the cost of some straight-line stability I dare say. It seems a lot more susceptible to direction changes by gusts of wind.
I can't explain the overall handling yet.
Watch this space for part2.
I'm tempted to try to put a tiny bit of camber on the front. From -0.4 to -1 maybe.
For what it's worth, I reckon you should have left the camber as you had it. It's going to cost a fortune for alignments if you keep changing....
I know. It was always an experiment to see what the 2 could do as far as rear end planting. Now I know. And I do like it, but not at -2. I'd be happier with -1.5. One of the great things is how when the back does go, it just kind of rights itself.
Quote from: "shnazzle"I know. It was always an experiment to see what the 2 could do as far as rear end planting. Now I know. And I do like it, but not at -2. I'd be happier with -1.5. One of the great things is how when the back does go, it just kind of rights itself.
hi shnazzle, i run 2.5 degrees on the front and 2 on the rear which we liked really made a difference on the track on the long fast bends rear end grips much better, think were going to go to 3 on the front and 2.5 rear soon, we also run 0 toe on the front and slight toe in rear really made the car handle so much better but does have its down side as mentioned for everyday use like tram lining and straight line stability.
cheers tommy
I'm surprised by the front camber. I never thought of increasing the front camber beyond the rear.
But, yours also on all 15s right? Slightly more square.
I'm going to go back more like how it was. It is a daily driver now so it needs to be comfortable. So I'll dial in the camber a bit on the rear. Increase the front very slightly. Be done with it
Quote from: "shnazzle"I'm surprised by the front camber. I never thought of increasing the front camber beyond the rear.
But, yours also on all 15s right? Slightly more square.
I'm going to go back more like how it was. It is a daily driver now so it needs to be comfortable. So I'll dial in the camber a bit on the rear. Increase the front very slightly. Be done with it
no mine is on 15 and 16 front and rear buddy but we have made the rolling radius front to rear square via tyre sizes, on our cars as you load up the suspension the rear incurs more camber than the front so its better to run a little bit more front camber on the front so they even out under cornering, but like you say yours is a daily so not really necessary to run these settings
cheers tommy
I used to use one of these for setting my camber myself, very accurate but fiddly
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADA-Castor-Ca ... SwnDxUfFaR (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADA-Castor-Camber-Gauge-For-Quick-And-Easy-Wheel-Alignment-For-Chassis-Set-Up-/310998475924?hash=item4868f42494:g:vKIAAOSwnDxUfFaR) m
This looks far better to use;
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAVE-GARAGE-C ... Sw9NdXvE1G (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAVE-GARAGE-COSTS-DIY-Magnetic-Wheel-Alignment-Camber-Castor-Gauge-Camber-Bar-/361700201349?hash=item5437031385:g:0kgAAOSw9NdXvE1G) m
I had looked at one of those magnetic doodads but doesn't changing camber inherently change toe? I don't want to throw away the whole 100 quid I just spent on 2hrs of alignment
Yes changing camber does change the toe, that is the problem.
Minutely yes .... but I pretty much used them to restore camber after working on the suspension.
When checked on the kit at Tweeks it was found that it was very accurate and toe wasn't significantly affected.
I used to run -1.5 degrees all round.
I found high camber was a real niusance on public roads, "lorry rails" on motorways induced drifting and crowned country roads could be lethal.
Ah OK. Good shout then. That's what I'll do. Hate those camber bolts though.
They're an absolute pain in the ass to adjust. You need 3 hands!
Adjustable arms are much easier
Restoring camber to its correct setting is fine, adjusting it to a new setting will totally screw your toe setting, unless you adjust the camber so little that it's not worth changing anyway.
No that's the plan. Just 0.5deg or so. Worst case I take it to North East tyres near me and they'll sort the toe for a hell of a lot less.
0.5 degrees will leave you with quite a lot of toe out, it's a simple trigonometric calculation. A quick and dirty calculation looks to me like you would go from 5 minutes toe in to around 15 minutes toe out! That's 3 times more toe out than the amount of toe in you have at the moment!
If you then just go for toe correction without a four wheel alignment you could well be left with a load of unwanted thrust/steer ahead angle that you just paid to be dialed out at the last place.
Oh well, full job it is then Patrick
Having given it some thought, I reckon I could develop a way of doing DIY 4 wheel alignments just using a bit of string, calipers and a spreadsheet, without the faff of finding the (impossibly) precise centreline of the car as you normally have to do with the string method.
Anyone interested?
I'll just stick with it until I can be bothered to get it aligned s:) :) s:)
It's the risk you take for experimenting
In the meantime I'm perfectly happily driving around as it is
Just found this.
Has a handy spreadsheet in it s:) :) s:)
m http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/t ... nment.html (http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/technical/alignment.html) m
I don't reckon you can viably use that method, the tolerances of the measurements to the hub centres are just not accurate enough to ensure you have got the strings parallel. Bear in mind that your toe in of 5 minutes actually means that the leading edge of wheel rim is 0.25mm nearer the centre of the car than the wheel centre line is. You just can't measure accurately enough to the wheel hub to get the string in line and who knows what manufacturing tolerances there are for components in the hub itself? Any method for using string should only ever use measurements directly to the wheel rim itself. You are then only measuring the same distance both to align the string and measure the toe angle.
Edit. Rereading the instructions I have also noticed there are some very important measurements that have been forgotten about that will mean their results are actually meaningless.
It was just something I found. I have no intentions of using it s:) :) s:)
Found out something new today; With the open loop trick, my car no longer runs on 95ron hahaha. I don't mean "My spidey senses tell me the car's not happy". I mean, full on kangarooing all over the show every time I went onto the accelerator at any pace.
Luckily managed to stop at a services and throw in half a liter of petrol treatment to increase the octane a tiny bit. THe only thing they had was "Nitrox Hot Shot". It had methanol in it so I figured, that'll do to increase octane a bit. Luckily I only filled the tank with about 20 quid of 95ron, so the 500ml of this overpriced crap did the trick.
Only premium now
Thought I might have been on another rescue mission s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Have to keep clear of Scotch Corner in future s:) :) s:)
Haha wish I had waited to Scotch Corner, they had 97. But I was desperate.
Modified cars are a pain in the ass.
Having said that, Helen's car is dead sensitive to fuel grade as well and we've noticed that it can be much worse on some 95s than on others.
So, I clearly got a very bad batch from that crappy little garage we stopped at
Oh, and another note on the alignment; I'm keeping it! After a blast on some b-roads yesterday I'm converted
New toys to be added next week
Hurricane intake and MaxBore throttle body
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/6b920de40e4f7a403e31f8ce355841d5.jpg)
Hurricane and MaxBore throttle body in.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/39bfc14305eed3f8f9fde0393b9a96c7.jpg)
Lovely warbling sound haha. Love it!
Stock vs maxbore
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/090745f8945e000c182cb31e82fcfeba.jpg)
EDIT: the noise! Oh sweet heavens the noise. My cheeks hurt from smiling.
nice... have you got a new obd2 yet to do some mapping?
No not yet. The next one I get is going to be a more upmarket one for once, but funds are depleted. It's time to recover funds now
Going back a page it's interesting what you've said about rear camber - my car was running stock PFL wheels previously and when I did my 2zz swap after 2 years of outdoor parking under a tree I put some 17s on since the PFLs were corroded to hell... But I had to wind the front arm out to push the wheel back in the arch to give clearance, so my alignment was all over the place. I've had the alignment done last week and set the rear to 2deg as well, and I definitely can feel that the stability is not as good as before I came off the PFLs. I'm going to replace my steering UJ this week ( I think there is a tiny amount of play) but if that doesn't solve it I'll go for less rear camber.
Have you changed the settings from 2 deg yet, or still going like that? I'm normally happy with a loose rear end, but this is the front that's floating about and it kills my confidence...
I'm keeping the -2 rear camber. I'm used to the reduction in straight line stability now, just takes a grain more focus. But the rewards on the twisties make it all worth it. So, definitely a keeper.
I won't put on any front camber though. This setup will do for me. There's nothing else I want changing to the handling.
I have removed the stock rear cross bar and left the "cusco" rear strut brace. This really made the rear a lot more compliant on the roads around here and less skiddish.
It's still a bit heavy on understeer, but I'm keeping that in as it is a daily driver and a bit of safety goes a long way.
My brake fluid could do with changing and some yellow stuff pads wouldbn;'t go amiss. All stuff for the future. Still got plenty life in my mtec pads which are absolutely smashing.
All in all, my setup is one I am happy with and can recommend. It may not be amazing for track, but it would make for a very good track day and it's very comfortable/balanced for daily use. That's me done s:) :) s:)
BCs at 4/6kg (although I do like the MeisterRs as well, having been in 2 cars with them now)
Front and rear strut braces (replacing stock bracing)
TTE mid brace (Matt's brace)
-2deg camber on rear. The rest as stock.
AD08R tyres, slightly wider than stock (195 and 225).
Power-wise; I'm taking the path of Nic/Bernie but I'm in no rush. I'm very very pleased with the performance of the car at the minute. It's noticeably quicker than stock and brings power in lovely. And as Stew and I concluded on Friday; any quicker would just mean more chance of killing yourself.
The big wap of power from a turbo on the 70 roads is really good fun and puts a smile on your face, but on the b-roads it's largely wasted. If not entirely. It makes the car more driveable if you do lots of motorway miles as well. But I don't.
2zz is a track toy in my opinion. Although if any swap were to take place, it'd be 2zz.
Car's going into "maintenance mode" now for a while. Interior's getting redone, I'm sorting out little electrical bits and bobs. Replacing missing clips/screws. New wheels eventually, as mine will fail not too long from now.
Just keeping it running as-is is a prospect that I'm very happy with at the minute
Absolutely love my car
Sounds like you have your car set up really nicely. Can you just remind me what you have on there that actually increases power? I know you have the EMB and now the new intake. I am assuming the EMB does increase power, the intake is really for noise (although it may start to help power if you get to a higher output?) and you have a TTE exhaust? Was the EMB mapped with a TTE exhaust?
Is there anything else you have? I wonder what output you have?
That's it really.
Increased airflow via the hurricane intake and maxbore throttle body
Increased scavenging via the TTE (a tiny bit) and perhaps the gutted manifold. The manifold starts to fail higher up in the rpm range and lose performance as the gasses build up in the chambers and start blocking rather than helping flow. (my theory).
My cat isn't...er...in the best state... s:) :) s:) Not blocked though. Maybe that helps.
Then the whole lot made use of by the emanage with the open loop trickery. The latter is what makes the emanage worthwhile on the N/A setup.
It was mapped with gutted precat, TTE exhaust and 57i intake on another car, but I have played with the map on the emanage a bit to resolve some rougher running when toodling around town (decreased airflow map) and advanced the timing a bit smoother coming up from 2750-4000 rpm instead of just bringing it all in at 4000.
That's it really. I should take it to a dyno sometime. I think the overall HP figures won't be massively different as I'm still running a stock cat and gutted manifold. But the power is much better placed for sure.
Cheers for your thoughts Schnazzle, I do like the way the rear grips with this camber setting, hopefully the UJ will clear the front float.
Oil change time. Sparks were changed 6 months ago so no point and air filter...well...see above s:) :) s:) Bit pointless to change that now.
Some nice Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w40 in there. She runs looovely.
Finally got the nappies back on and all. Looks so much better.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Oil change time. Sparks were changed 6 months ago so no point and air filter...well...see above s:) :) s:) Bit pointless to change that now.
Some nice Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w40 in there. She runs looovely.
Finally got the nappies back on and all. Looks so much better.
Spark plugs: Copper or Iridium?
Copper.
When I last changed the plugs after a year they were still absolutely fine. So 6 months would be taking the proverbial haha
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Put in some colder plugs. Wasn't going to change mine but figured, why not.
These came out.
Running a bit rich and cyl2 showing some signs of wear. Could be rings, could be seals. Still look ok(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/324e0a88b2109e316a3033c9dc51eb1e.jpg)
UPDATE : The engine sound has changed. It sounds a little less muffled and got a bit of my lost TTE burble back. Could be the ecu reset I did but it pulls like a frickin train.
I seem to be making tiny little improvements every time and making little gains here and there. The NA tuning game isn't so boring s:) :) s:)
Still no ill effects of the colder plugs.
Really shouldn't need it, and to be fair it ran very well without them. But it has changed the engine note a bit. I wonder if it's worse or better as far as actual combustion s:) :) s:)
I guess I'll never know until I pull these plugs.
What are you hoping the colder plugs will do?
Quote from: "jonbill"What are you hoping the colder plugs will do?
Nothing. Just experimenting
When the new throttle body went in the WOT voltage changed for my open loop trickery. Was only sending 88%. Pulled well and fueled well but figured, do it right. So I upped the voltage and noticeably lost power and fueling went off again. So put it back to 88% and all was good again. Odd. I guess the 88% throttle part of the Toyota map is a particularly strong area s:) :) s:)
Not bad for a 12 year old car that sees a lot of high revs.
Cylinder 1
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/6f352cddd38e73644e97d72f776232f5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/030911f19849523b6f0be698f654abf5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/f57cb3bc04ecd73c40bfdbb4b296a151.jpg)
Cylinder 2
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/4593cbb2f45458d1663a8fd104e7aca7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/d5b5e4de10890d69c7cd7d8c660e7620.jpg)
Cylinder 3
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/9703b38564c8073fc698d01a89883c5a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/c93a2ccb8fe2fad8e01afe937da11ea3.jpg)
Cylinder 4
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/3a664a855c012717bcbba2ab8563bd51.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/9ae9624c2d20ee92daaa877be68f670e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/a738c2bdc3ce87f2576dba3c801461c3.jpg)
Added some "fun fueling" to my map to promote some pops and bangs on overrun s:) :) s:) ... Just for fun hehehe.
It's gotta be done.
Is it good? No.
Is it efficient? No.
Does it make me smile?...every damn time
Quote from: "shnazzle"Still no ill effects of the colder plugs.
Really shouldn't need it, and to be fair it ran very well without them. But it has changed the engine note a bit. I wonder if it's worse or better as far as actual combustion s:) :) s:)
I guess I'll never know until I pull these plugs.
If you don't mind me asking which colder plugs did you put in? It's been suggested to me that I should put colder plugs in too.
NGK BKR6E is what I put in.
Stock is BKR5.
Who suggested going colder?
It's really not necessary on stock or even N/A modified.
Having said that, you're going turbo right? Then the BKR6E or BKR7E will be the way forward
Shnazzle - My mechanic friend who's helping with the install made the recommendation. Hence he knows more about cars than I do, but not necessarily as much about turboing a '2' as some of the members on the board. I'll add the plugs to the shopping list.
Thanks
RJ
More to tinkering occurred before work. Uploaded the new map with 6% fueling at 0% throttle from 3k rpm onwards.
Then drove to work,warmed the car up had fun. No more slow-down when shifting gears s:) :) s:) Drives like an auto box now. Smooooooth power delivery
When you do your installation on mine - do I get to choose between "smooth" or "over run" fun?
You're getting the lumpy bumpy over fueling map
Quote from: "shnazzle"You're getting the lumpy bumpy over fueling map
LOL.. that reminds me... I need to find my "switch" that I bought for it...
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Quote from: "shnazzle"You're getting the lumpy bumpy over fueling map
LOL.. that reminds me... I need to find my "switch" that I bought for it...
Ah yeah! Looking forward to seeing that
The only benefit of using a colder plug is to avoid pre-ignition. This would happen in a turbo engine or where the engine maybe running super lean? The plugs would get so hot they would glow red and cause detention where the fuel ignites due to the red heat of the plug (rather than spark) before it is supposed to. Don't really see the benefit in an N.A. motor. The difference is probably due to the fact the plugs are clean s;) ;) s;)
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "CrazySX"The only benefit of using a colder plug is to avoid pre-ignition. This would happen in a turbo engine or where the engine maybe running super lean? The plugs would get so hot they would glow red and cause detention where the fuel ignites due to the red heat of the plug (rather than spark) before it is supposed to. Don't really see the benefit in an N.A. motor. The difference is probably due to the fact the plugs are clean s;) ;) s;)
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Indeed. I knew the theory. I had the plugs in house (ordered for Helen's car but ended up needing even colder plugs for hers) so figured give it a try s:) :) s:) I did a service on my car so figured a plug change, even if colder, wouldn't so any harm.
As I said,it ran smashing beforehand.
Swapped back to a stock engine lid. Now to decide what spoiler I want.
Took a little video of the Hurricane sucking in air at idle. It's quite loud.
m https://youtu.be/cGnfwVR4Qcc (https://youtu.be/cGnfwVR4Qcc) m
Passed MOT. It was a proper clencher but somehow it got through emissions first time! No problem.
Last year it took two attempts, a bottle of Cataclean and a hard blast.
You'd think my knackered cat would be more knackered this year.
Anyhoo... Happy days.
Bit surprised that my rear Yokos are already down to 2mm.
congrats on the MOT. Sounds throaty.
Quote from: "Redjay"congrats on the MOT. Sounds throaty.
Thanks
It does indeed s:) :) s:)
Woohoo! Now time to see if mine passes in a month or so s:D :D s:D
Mine didn't just pass emissions, it flew through like a VW!
It barely put out anything at all. Very very low on HC (11/200ppm) and CO (0.007/0.200%vol).
Lambda was a bit closer to the edge but still well within range (1.011/1.030)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Mine didn't just pass emissions, it flew through like a VW!
That sent me on the floor! Well done! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Finished and tried out my shnazzle special engine head-steady. The results; rather phenomenal.
The cost; rather minimal.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/2ae1224f2f1597ec9bc361c110a9b995.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/8c56be1a5e721c71c6c9c3694f9e662b.jpg)
The design isn't flawless as the support bar I put in gets rather hot, which is having a not-so-good effect on the rubber vibration damper.
Nothing a spacer and some heat reflective tape won't solve
when you say the results are phenomenal - can you elaborate? I wasn't aware that you had issues with your engine mounts in the first place, so I'd be interested to know what the difference is?
I'll see if I can do a little pre/post video for you
Was this due to engine mount rubber perishing? There's a cure for that, I'll send you details s:) :) s:)
Engine mounts looked peachy when we had them off during the clutch job. They'll be a bit tired but they're fine
Quote from: "shnazzle"Engine mounts looked peachy when we had them off during the clutch job. They'll be a bit tired but they're fine
So long as the rubber isn't perished you're ok. There's a rather clever cure the guys in Greece use, as their mounts perish faster due to hotter climate. They use windscreen resin to fill it up and it works a treat!
As in the stuff you'd fix a crack in the windshield with?
Haha. No. As in the stuff they use to stick it into place s:) :) s:)
Yes, the resin you use to stick it in place. Get a relatively hard grade, avoid soft grades s:) :) s:)
Hopefully new wheels arrive tomorrow. They'll just get my existing AD08Rs on them. Although the rears could do with replacement this year. Oh well.
Existing setup is:
15 x 6.0 ET45 - 195/50/15 AD08R
16 x 6.5 ET45 - 225/45/16 AD08R
Going to:
15 x 7.0 ET35 - 195/50/15 AD08R
16 x 7.0 ET45 - 225/45/16 AD08R
So the rears should stay pretty much equal with poke and inset being only 6.3mm. That's neither here nor there for the 225s. Just lighter alloys, so that might be noticeable.
The fronts will be interesting to see what the change in feel will be. The inset is 2.7mm, which is all good. But the poke will be a hefty 22.7mm. It means the tyres sit very straight on the wheels, which may actually provide a more stable front, letting the tyre contact patch do the work instead of the side walls.
Shouldn't need any arch rolling anyway
In any case, it'll look a HELL of a lot better s:) :) s:)
Exciting times.
Shouldnt have any problems on the front as mine are fine with the same wheels and tyres but ET35.
(Would have been better in gloss black though!).
Just noticed in my dispatch email that the fronts are indeed et35.
Will adjust the post above s:) :) s:)
That's better!
Fronts are the same weight as stock, but an inch wider, so technically lighter haha.
Rears are a whole kilo lighter per wheel,which I think makes a massive difference. And that's with going up 0.5 inches in width as well
Fronts did go up from et45 to et35, so they stick out a fair bit. Which is something I didn't consider when I kept stock offset on the rear to avoid rubbing. The fronts stick out a fair bit more than the rears. Whoops. Spacers it is.
Maybe I'll get some tiny spacers, just enough to make it not noticeable. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/1940ed330982e82a8ade85ce92067cf9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/d44c0e1ddc9a98b48fb418459c6076fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/f21c2f85078f42af48b50591d50b54ea.jpg)
Woohoo! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Some dope wheelz yo!
What's next? s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "manos3003"Woohoo! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Some dope wheelz yo!
What's next? s:D :D s:D
Interior retrim in a couple months, then nothing s:) :) s:) For a while. Just maintenance. Need some new brake pads and a fluid change. Other than that, I'm happy
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "manos3003"Woohoo! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Some dope wheelz yo!
What's next? s:D :D s:D
Interior retrim in a couple months, then nothing s:) :) s:) For a while. Just maintenance. Need some new brake pads and a fluid change. Other than that, I'm happy
Mentioning fluid, I did use the DOT5.1 from Toyota previously, thinking of going back to DOT4 though.
I put in a race DOT4 and I'm going back to 5.1 s:) :) s:) haha
Not built for long lasting. It's hygroscopic as hell compared to 5.1.
5.1 is best for daily/fast road use I think. High boiling point but higher level of water resistance. Save the race DOT4 for the track s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"I put in a race DOT4 and I'm going back to 5.1 s:) :) s:) haha
Not built for long lasting. It's hygroscopic as hell compared to 5.1.
5.1 is best for daily/fast road use I think. High boiling point but higher level of water resistance. Save the race DOT4 for the track s:) :) s:)
DOT5.1 Toyota is the only grade we can do, I think. Maybe some difference in additives? I've not had the chance to do proper research on this. I do know someone who has put another type of DOT5.1 and destroyed his ABS pump. s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Sure it wasn't 5.0?
Quote from: "shnazzle"Sure it wasn't 5.0?
I'll have to double-check, was slightly puzzled myself s:? :? s:?
Confirmed, he used DOT5 instead of DOT5.1 s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
This would make sense, as DOT5 is silicone-based rather than polyethylene glycol -based (DOT3, DOT4,DOT5.1) and the pump in our cars cannot cope with it.
Little update I guess..
I fixed the head steady up a bit after finding out that my cost-effective solution wasn't so good. It was stripping the threads on the block. So I've made a bracket a-la-Carolyn and added a bit more rubber bushing to absorb impacts both to and fro.
The car engine is starting to show signs of aging with little taps from the head and squeaks from the aux belt.
The oil burning has started,but only an absolutely miniscule amount. Haven't had to top it up yet.
So,time to start deciding which direction I want to go and putting away little bits of cash here and there in preparation.
It does get driven hard,but even taking that into consideration, im guessing it still has a good 20k in it eeaaasssiilly before I have to begin worrying.
Not bad at all for 60k of battering and driving up to the limiter.
A lot to be said about how strong these blocks actually are.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
I do find that certain driving styles burn more oil, just pootling round - no oil burnt.
Nailing it around the red line - surprisingly little oil burnt.
Driving on a motorway at a steady speed - LOTS of oil burnt!
Just seen the photos of your wheels... Looks cool!
I've gone for 15x7 et30 all around; I would have preferred 16 rear and possibly a little less offset up front but 195/50/15s are so cheap and the wheels themselves were a bargain so I'll just have to cope with a bit of arch bashing! How close to scrubbing are your fronts?
Quote from: "shnazzle"Little update I guess..
So,time to start deciding which direction I want to go and putting away little bits of cash here and there in preparation.
2zz - start saving, get the bits and I'll help you do it s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "jonty"Just seen the photos of your wheels... Looks cool!
I've gone for 15x7 et30 all around; I would have preferred 16 rear and possibly a little less offset up front but 195/50/15s are so cheap and the wheels themselves were a bargain so I'll just have to cope with a bit of arch bashing! How close to scrubbing are your fronts?
Cheers. I rather like them as well s:) :) s:) Much better than the disgusting disintegrating specimens I had.
No sign of rubbing in th front at all. Doesn't even seem close.
Quote from: "jvanzyl"I do find that certain driving styles burn more oil, just pootling round - no oil burnt.
Nailing it around the red line - surprisingly little oil burnt.
Driving on a motorway at a steady speed - LOTS of oil burnt!
I'll have to monitor that. I do very little long motorway miles so that's good s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"Little update I guess..
So,time to start deciding which direction I want to go and putting away little bits of cash here and there in preparation.
2zz - start saving, get the bits and I'll help you do it [emoji38]
Or something else.... s:) :) s:)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "manos3003"2zz - start saving, get the bits and I'll help you do it [emoji38]
Or something else.... s:) :) s:)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Helens "Husband potential dreaming leading to spending radar" must be going mental... But I think you stand a fair chance of convincing her that 2GR is a sound investment....!
Nah not interested in V6 to be honest. Don't think it's for me
Granted I've never tried one
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: "shnazzle"Cheers. I rather like them as well s:) :) s:) Much better than the disgusting disintegrating specimens I had.
No sign of rubbing in th front at all. Doesn't even seem close.
Cool that's reassuring, I'll maybe get small spacers at the rear but hoping that the front looks good from the off. I'm going to lower it as much as possible whilst still being able to get it on my drive, that should help with how it looks!
I'm interested to hear what your future plans are, since it's not 2zz or v6 I'm guessing it'll be turbo 1zz?
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "manos3003"2zz - start saving, get the bits and I'll help you do it [emoji38]
Or something else.... s:) :) s:)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Helens "Husband potential dreaming leading to spending radar" must be going mental... But I think you stand a fair chance of convincing her that 2GR is a sound investment....!
That radar goes constantly! He can put those thoughts on hold until the engine dies completely
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "shnazzle"Nah not interested in V6 to be honest. Don't think it's for me
Granted I've never tried one
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
It's better than a 1zz turbo I can tell you that much.
Quote from: "HereComesTheWife"That radar goes constantly! He can put those thoughts on hold until the engine dies completely
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
There's some motivation for you.... That translates as "the sooner your current engine expires the sooner you can spend money on a nice new one!" Approval is given implicitly...
s;-) ;-) s;-)
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Quote from: "HereComesTheWife"That radar goes constantly! He can put those thoughts on hold until the engine dies completely
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
There's some motivation for you.... That translates as "the sooner your current engine expires the sooner you can spend money on a nice new one!" Approval is given implicitly...
s;-) ;-) s;-)
I'll be properly gutted when my engine goes.
I really like the 1zz.
I do know now from a drive in Tommyzoom/hachiroku's car that naturally aspirated with stg2 cams is just not for me
It's not suitable for daily driver.
So..back to the drawing board.
Had a drive in Helen's today and it's hard not to love the turbo
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: "shnazzle"I'll be properly gutted when my engine goes.
I really like the 1zz.
I do know now from a drive in Tommyzoom/hachiroku's car that naturally aspirated with stg2 cams is just not for me
It's not suitable for daily driver.
So..back to the drawing board.
Had a drive in Helen's today and it's hard not to love the turbo
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
The way you rag your engine it's best to have a NA one, you don't want to worry about your turbo going without proper care (turbo timer, warm-up, etc). More expensive in the long run s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
How about a Rotrex 1zz? I'm assuming (ignorantly) that it'd be more reliable than a turbo setup?
Quote from: "jvanzyl"How about a Rotrex 1zz? I'm assuming (ignorantly) that it'd be more reliable than a turbo setup?
Not necessarily, either way it's still boosted, but easier to maintain. Plus the whineeee s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Either way, forged pistons along with a full rebuild would be the way to do it.
Well that's settled then... Patrick we have overwhelmingly decided that you will be having a Rotrex on your rebuilt 1zz. You can thank us later.
Hurrah! When will I receive your donations?
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: "shnazzle"Hurrah! When will I receive your donations?
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
You may get a 2zz if I buy another Rolla and rag it to death s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Hi Shnazzle
Am still a bit of a newbie - so thanks for posting much useful info re wheel and tyre sizing.
Had a question re your wheel sizing and offset:
If you were sizing them again would you change the rear offset a bit more - based on your experience of the following setup?
15 x 7.0 ET35 - 195/50/15 AD08R
16 x 7.0 ET45 - 225/45/16 AD08R
I was thinking of doing the following:
15 x 7.0 ET35 - 195/50/15 AD08R
16 x 7.0 ET40 - 225/45/16 AD08R
Or:
15 x 7.0 ET35 - 195/50/15 AD08R
16 x 7.0 ET35 - 225/45/16 AD08R
Do you think the ET35 rear offset will clear the arches?
Also what speed and load ratings should I be getting in the AD08r's? (2005, caged 2zz, with 6 speed LSD 'box, currently standard suspension, track-days as often as budget permits)
This is the first set of pricier and non standard tyres ive bought - and I'm excited to see how it'll feel.
Any thoughts/advice/answers gratefully received!
Thanks much!
Hi Maz
I think I'd go for et40 on the rear of I had to do it again. I think it would definitely fit under the arches comfortably with 225/45/16 and line up a bit more with the et35 in the front.
Et35 in the rear would definitely require arch rolling. our other MR2 has et38 on the rear and I've had to roll the arches a bit
As for load, in those sizes they only come in 89w I believe. I think 225/50 is available with a higher speed rating
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Well now that I've got nice shiny new wheels and the exterior looks a hell of a lot better,I had to compensate somehow.
Unknowingly I seem to need something on the car in a mess.
This time it's the interior. I looked it in today and realised....what a f***in tip...
Got to sort this out or my new interior retrim is going to add nothing
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/44f8eacb5660e4c7b2122b933de91c8f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/b631c45a23ab9aeb5fe0125b22c42fdd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/22ccd4320029dc163ae15c7f69757af6.jpg)
Broken wire dangling from a pillar, plastics off, bin lid bolts snapped so no lid, mat destroyed, electrics all over the ahop,..
Oh dear.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Oh dear.
It speaks volumes that that is your response,out of all people s:) :) s:)
It gets driven plenty,and hard hehe
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "1979scotte"Oh dear.
It speaks volumes that that is your response,out of all people s:) :) s:)
It gets driven plenty,and hard hehe
Tbh it's the state of those mats that gets me.
And what the hell happened to the centre console?
Two things on the mats
1) they were 11 quid off eBay.
2) I haven't actually got a clue what I do to cause that wear. I've put a rubber mat under it to stop me destroying the actual carpet.
It happened it a very short space of time as well
Centre console was a case of running out of time. I put the DAB in, forgot to put the cupholder/ashtray part back in before putting the radio in. So it got left as i ran out of time.
So that leaves a lovely display of all my wires.
The dash cam broke so the wire was left. I plugged my little old MP3 player in to the plug charge it. Upon removing it, the plug came off the wire!
So I started pulling the wire out but it's a little more stuck than I thought,so it was left dangling s:) :) s:)
And the grey plastic trim came off when I pulled my gym back out of the car and the strap caught it and pulled it off.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: "shnazzle"Centre console was a case of running out of time. I put the DAB in, forgot to put the cupholder/ashtray part back in before putting the radio in. So it got left as i ran out of time.
So that leaves a lovely display of all my wires.
The dash cam broke so the wire was left. I plugged my little old MP3 player in to the plug charge it. Upon removing it, the plug came off the wire!
So I started pulling the wire out but it's a little more stuck than I thought,so it was left dangling s:) :) s:)
And the grey plastic trim came off when I pulled my gym back out of the car and the strap caught it and pulled it off.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
If that had all happened together it would have been a great comedy sketch s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "shnazzle"Two things on the mats
1) they were 11 quid off eBay.
2) I haven't actually got a clue what I do to cause that wear. I've put a rubber mat under it to stop me destroying the actual carpet.
It happened it a very short space of time as well
Centre console was a case of running out of time. I put the DAB in, forgot to put the cupholder/ashtray part back in before putting the radio in. So it got left as i ran out of time.
So that leaves a lovely display of all my wires.
The dash cam broke so the wire was left. I plugged my little old MP3 player in to the plug charge it. Upon removing it, the plug came off the wire!
So I started pulling the wire out but it's a little more stuck than I thought,so it was left dangling s:) :) s:)
And the grey plastic trim came off when I pulled my gym back out of the car and the strap caught it and pulled it off.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
This is what comes from wearing the Pants of Shame for so long.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Two things on the mats
1) they were 11 quid off eBay.
2) I haven't actually got a clue what I do to cause that wear. I've put a rubber mat under it to stop me destroying the actual carpet.
It happened it a very short space of time as well
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
The two important points about the mats are related. One is the result of the other, though not the cause. Ha ha ha!
They cost £11
They wore out quickly.
Oh and the centre console & wiring? Put the Pants back on ...
Just went out to fix the wiring. Didn't get far before the heavens opened.
Managed to take out the dashcam wire and the wiring for my reversing camera which I don't have and likely won't ever have again.
I left a twin wire cable that I pulled from the engine bay into the cabin that I used to power the reverse camera. Might need that again someday for a gauge or something. Un-earthed it and tidied it away near the ECU.
I was about to undo my open loop trick activation button so I could tidy that wire up under the console and under the carpet,but then rain happened.
Next is to put my ashtray/cupholder unit back in under the radio to hide all the lovely wiring. Tempted to take the DAB back out.
Tried it a few times and frankly I'm 100% advert intolerant.
Will need to rethread pretty much all bin bolt holes and use new bolts to get the door back on.
Then a good vacuum and wipe.
Inside of the windshield is hacky as well
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
There
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/873bb3ba8d9b52586ae2ecbe702a6b2d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/955c5b902fedf6797c567128f5f4ae34.jpg)
Get rid of those cheap mats !! - Go to Mr T and get yourself MR2 replacements or change your footwear!!!
Quote from: "2 of the left"Get rid of those cheap mats !! - Go to Mr T and get yourself MR2 replacements or change your footwear!!!
I shredded the last OEM mat. Until I figure out what the hell Im doing,I'm not getting good mats
Might get so lovely rubber mats s:) :) s:) or do away with mats and carpet entirely haha
Changed the pcv. Was surprised how much oil was on/in it. Not dripping or anything but does show that a bit of oil does travel through there into the intake. Hardly the end of the world but another long-life maintenance piece done.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/17d629c9e79ceb36f6ba6306b4a23f85.jpg)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Be interested to see what it does to your oil consumption?
Seeing as the consumption I did have is damn near unmeasurable... I doubt much s:) :) s:)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
LEDs out, replacement bulbs in.
Not worth it. Looks really funky and cool at night but a bit patchy and crap during twilight (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170818/805747c086b227ef09184ca437156e7c.jpg)
Quote from: "shnazzle"LEDs out, replacement bulbs in.
Not worth it. Looks really funky and cool at night but a bit patchy and crap during twilight (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170818/805747c086b227ef09184ca437156e7c.jpg)
Is that the back or front of the panel? I've never had mine off but I've got no illumination behind the 30mph area so assumed the bulb was out. But if that's the front then there doesn't seem to be a bulb in that area at all?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"Quote from: "shnazzle"LEDs out, replacement bulbs in.
Not worth it. Looks really funky and cool at night but a bit patchy and crap during twilight (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170818/805747c086b227ef09184ca437156e7c.jpg)
Is that the back or front of the panel? I've never had mine off but I've got no illumination behind the 30mph area so assumed the bulb was out. But if that's the front then there doesn't seem to be a bulb in that area at all?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's the back with all the plugs removed. It's a terribly easy job to do and a full set of 10 bulbs is 5.40 from your local Toyota.
Worth replacing them all for the sake of the effort.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "Call the midlife!"Quote from: "shnazzle"LEDs out, replacement bulbs in.
Not worth it. Looks really funky and cool at night but a bit patchy and crap during twilight (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170818/805747c086b227ef09184ca437156e7c.jpg)
Is that the back or front of the panel? I've never had mine off but I've got no illumination behind the 30mph area so assumed the bulb was out. But if that's the front then there doesn't seem to be a bulb in that area at all?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's the back with all the plugs removed. It's a terribly easy job to do and a full set of 10 bulbs is 5.40 from your local Toyota.
Worth replacing them all for the sake of the effort.
Makes better sense now if the bulbs push through from the back, I'll add it to the list!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are there 11 bulbs? What's the one on the far left in the pic?
There's 10. Unless I've always missed one. The 4th from the left is empty.
Quote from: "shnazzle"There's 10. Unless I've always missed one. The 4th from the left is empty.
Thanks. I couldn't tell from the pic. I guess I'll be ordering a set and finding out for myself the 4th from left is empty s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "shnazzle"LEDs out, replacement bulbs in.
Not worth it. Looks really funky and cool at night but a bit patchy and crap during twilight (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170818/805747c086b227ef09184ca437156e7c.jpg)
Did the LEDs bulbs that you used to have in need any mod in order to work? (I mean, did the dimmer work with the LEDs - guessing possibly not - , and if not was it just a case of leaving dimmer at full?)
Nope all worked fine. The only thing that's different is that the LEDs are polarity sensitive. And there's no indication of which way around d you need toy put it in. So it's a case of trial and error. Other than that, straight fit
As Simon (Mondo) already posted, as of 22/09/17 the car has a freshly retrimmed interior. I'm going to blatantly steal some of the pics and post here for logging purposes.
I'm really happy with this and the workmanship is seriously impressive. Not a stitch out of place.
One thing I really like is the "MR2 Roadster" embroidered into the seats.
There's some history to this.
Simon didn't have a good template, so I had to quickly provide one. Found a very grainy version online and a friend in the US kindly modified it to be smoother and in correct proportions.
There were some quirks on the "oadste" part of the text. The letters came out a bit cartoon-y and warped in the software conversion from grainy to vector.
I thought, it doesn't matter... The embroidery won't be that precise.
I was wrong... The embroidery copied every pixel of the logo.
But... I love it! It looks sweet and the little quirks in the letters are unique to my car. Makes it "mine".
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170923/3451a87d9ca843abcd0bb005cfc3b912.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170923/225e60ce7ab88cc23277c278624a2269.jpg)
Looks great Pat love the steering wheel too :-) :-) :-)
Thanks. The wheel is particularly nice indeed. It's a very nice place to sit at the minute.
Need some new mats,and then to finish this and some other bits:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170923/8c8f5125669a294f773e12bf769ff64e.jpg)
Quote from: "shnazzle"As Simon (Mondo) already posted, as of 22/09/17 the car has a freshly retrimmed interior. I'm going to blatantly steal some of the pics and post here for logging purposes.
I'm really happy with this and the workmanship is seriously impressive. Not a stitch out of place.
One thing I really like is the "MR2 Roadster" embroidered into the seats.
There's some history to this.
Simon didn't have a good template, so I had to quickly provide one. Found a very grainy version online and a friend in the US kindly modified it to be smoother and in correct proportions.
There were some quirks on the "oadste" part of the text. The letters came out a bit cartoon-y and warped in the software conversion from grainy to vector.
I thought, it doesn't matter... The embroidery won't be that precise.
I was wrong... The embroidery copied every pixel of the logo.
But... I love it! It looks sweet and the little quirks in the letters are unique to my car. Makes it "mine".
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170923/3451a87d9ca843abcd0bb005cfc3b912.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170923/225e60ce7ab88cc23277c278624a2269.jpg)
That looks great Pat and the logo on the seats has come out really well. Like Bernie, I like the leather on the steering wheel - it really adds to the look.
When I got my seats done a few years ago by Harry at LSC I was lucky and he did the seat embroidery for me and it turned out exactly as I wanted. I think mine was the last set he did, as has already been pointed out, the font used was exclusive to Toyota, or very close to it, so could have been questioned.
I must admit that the interior refresh was the best upgrade investment I've made to the car and I would recommend it to anyone.
Your new interior looks excellent and as you rightly say, the font on your seat logo works well and is unique s:D :D s:D
Nice, love the stitching also, great work s:) :) s:)
In all honesty those seats look awful s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Out of the goodness of my heart I will Paypal you £50 to send them to me so you don`t have to have them in your car and I will hide them away in mine s:D :D s:D
Very nice and some damn fine work s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:
That is a really classy looking interior now.
Mondo has done some excellent work there, I've one of his steering wheels in my Celica and it's a beautiful thing, still looking good after 2 years of service!
I've been planning to have him do a few little jobs on my roadster at some stage too.
Quote from: "MisterK"I must admit that the interior refresh was the best upgrade investment I've made to the car and I would recommend it to anyone.
I agree with this completely, and not simply because it's my line of business. Any car, especially a convertible, will invariably be transformed by a new interior but for some reason it seems to be the one area that most people either ignore or spend the least on...
Which is strange as it's the one part of the car that they, as the driver, see the most of!
Looks smart mate. Two things:
1. Those heat knobs could do with relocating. I've driven one like yours and I switched them on every time I changed gear s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
2. Keep those seats fragrant-free s:P :P s:P
Starting to look like a proper interior now. New (well, 2nd hand) official mats in and gloss black center console. First of a few gloss black items to be
Manos,notice anything? s:) :) s:) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171007/a92534e266e72f75c77e8375673c841e.jpg)
What's that wee triangle perspex thingumy? Next to where door mirrors would be if shut?
BekaT used to make them? They stop the wind force when windows down.
Aha! Cheers Caroline. Really like the grey/red trim, looking great.
Quote from: "carolineasb"BekaT used to make them? They stop the wind force when windows down.
Patrick (headcase) now makes them if you want a set.
They really make a difference. Basically it means I can drive with the roof and windows down without having my wig blown off. Mine are effective to about 50mph. There are bigger ones (far too big for my likings) that are effective at motorway speeds.
What happened to just 2 two contrasting colours? Are you going paint the rest of the plastic gloss black?
I was. But having had the gloss black in the car a couple days... It's not staying gloss black.
It's too much.
Probably agree, it would be all black gloss all black trim or nothing would it not?
Quote from: "tomaky"Probably agree, it would be all black gloss all black trim or nothing would it not?
Exactly. And there's certain parts I really don't want shiny (binnacle or anything near the top of the dash).
So yeah.. Back to drawing board.
Also... It's all slippery. When I rest my arm on it, it slips off!
Finally did the big move of the oem seat heating buttons to next to the steering wheel.
It took having to extend every wire on both plugs (left and right), so there's a chunky 8-wire loom behind the radio for the seat heating, but it works and it's tidy.
Very pleased. Big tick off the list.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171014/27d8ba4f1a050b88994d5fff5fdbab60.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171014/ab60b3f36fa842e9c90f36ef77522298.jpg)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Finally did the big move of the oem seat heating buttons to next to the steering wheel
That's cool s8) 8) s8) always thought the standard led and coin holder were a bit unusual, that's much better use of the space
It's blatantly copied from Helen's car but it just makes sense.
Odd that I haven't seen it anywhere else. Seems so logical.
Like you said, the coin holder and LED are a bit pointless.
Great idea, was wondering where I could re-position mine but now I know, also Patrick could you let me know the model of your stereo with stalk control is please?
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
The radio is wx-gt90bt, I think. The precursor to the wx-900bt, which replaced it as is mildly better.
The stalk is the Sony RM-X4 or RM-X6 I think.
Due to the position of the radio, I think the stalk is almost a required safety feature.
Thank you, very much appreciated will save me a lot of time searching.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
I really miss my old Sony stalk!
One of the best ideas ever for aftermarket head units, its a shame no one else seems to do them. I would love one on my pioneer.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Finally did the big move of the oem seat heating buttons to next to the steering wheel.
It took having to extend every wire on both plugs (left and right), so there's a chunky 8-wire loom behind the radio for the seat heating, but it works and it's tidy.
Very pleased. Big tick off the list.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171014/27d8ba4f1a050b88994d5fff5fdbab60.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171014/ab60b3f36fa842e9c90f36ef77522298.jpg)
Nice and tidy! Well done s:D :D s:D
Very nice! Can't help but think the button would look good being blue and having a cool phrase inscribed on it...
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Very nice! Can't help but think the button would look good being blue and having a cool phrase inscribed on it...
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Why I can't imagine what you could possibly be talking about. Does one have an example perchance of such an item, INSTALLED? s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "tomaky"Probably agree, it would be all black gloss all black trim or nothing would it not?
Exactly. And there's certain parts I really don't want shiny (binnacle or anything near the top of the dash).
So yeah.. Back to drawing board.
Also... It's all slippery. When I rest my arm on it, it slips off!
Night mare haha
Have you got a leather center? (That might add to more contrast [emoji23])
Just going back a few posts here- the new version of the remote is the x7bt which may or may not be a good idea in our cars... Oh and the fact that it's £70....
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Really like the switch relocate. But where will you store your coins?! s;) ;) s;)
Ordered 2 new rear tyres and a little Xmas treat; jdl ducktail spoiler
Haven't seen many sables with it on so looking forward to having it. Bit bored of the plain stock boot lid s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Performance/Preservation+Longevity
- TTE exhaust
- pre-cats removed. Heat-wrapped exhaust manifold
- Greddy eManage Blue ECU + Noble Motorsports map
- Hurricane intake
- MaxBore throttle body
- HEL stainless braided brake flexi lines
- Mtec brake pads and dimpled and grooved discs
Handling
- NathanMR2 ultimate gear shift cable bushings
- solid gearshift cage mounts
- shortened gear shift lever
- MattPerformance TTE brace
- Corky's front strut brace
- Cusco-type rear strut brace
- BC coilovers (4kg front and 6kg rear springs and rear rubber top mounts)
- CG Lock for driver seat belt
- SuperPro rear camber bolts
- Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 alloys
Did you do that yourself or professionally done?
Reason I ask is that look like my wishlist!!
How much weigh saving do you get with the alloys over FL stock alloys?
Unless it's significant weight saving, I'd probably forget about the alloys and add a rollcage + larger bore / 4-2-2- exhaust manifold, in prep for a s'charger at a later date...
Quote from: "BahnStormer"Quote from: "shnazzle"Performance/Preservation+Longevity
- TTE exhaust
- pre-cats removed. Heat-wrapped exhaust manifold
- Greddy eManage Blue ECU + Noble Motorsports map
- Hurricane intake
- MaxBore throttle body
- HEL stainless braided brake flexi lines
- Mtec brake pads and dimpled and grooved discs
Handling
- NathanMR2 ultimate gear shift cable bushings
- solid gearshift cage mounts
- shortened gear shift lever
- MattPerformance TTE brace
- Corky's front strut brace
- Cusco-type rear strut brace
- BC coilovers (4kg front and 6kg rear springs and rear rubber top mounts)
- CG Lock for driver seat belt
- SuperPro rear camber bolts
- Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 alloys
Did you do that yourself or professionally done?
Reason I ask is that look like my wishlist!!
How much weigh saving do you get with the alloys over FL stock alloys?
Unless it's significant weight saving, I'd probably forget about the alloys and add a rollcage + larger bore / 4-2-2- exhaust manifold, in prep for a s'charger at a later date...
All DIY. With the exception of Simon at Hide'n'Seat for my interior leather retrim and AK Automotive for my alignment.
I went for the TD1.2s because they're incredibly strong and still light. And look great s:) :) s:)
The strength becomes very important when you're stotting it off curbs on a track. (not that I do).
If you want proper weight saving then the likes of the Enkei RPF1s are very light.
The stock alloys are surprisingly light. Very light in fact for stock. So unless they're totally corroded to hell like mine were, stick with them and spend money elsewhere. The cash for wheels gets you a lovely Zero manifold that actually makes your engine breathe a good bit better and would go very well with a supercharger
New spoiler arrived. Very quickly I must say from Poland. JDL Performance ducktail.
Can't wait to get it sprayed and fitted.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171222/ba60bfdc7553b9cacc3e0c21987c5b5a.jpg)
Hi Patrick, what's the difference to that one opposed to Foxy's oem ducktail, is it more angled up? Just curious, that's all. s:D :D s:D
Think the above is angled up more
Quote from: "s12vea"Think the above is angled up more
Thought it may've been Steve, thanks.
Be interested to know what the spraying costs come out to...
Was 80 for the banana including fixing it up
I paid the same for my ducktail to be fitted also, Really must get my banana fitted over the winter
Got my new OBDLink LX Bluetooth adapter. Miles better than the cheap Chinese copy Elm327 one I had. Definitely reads quicker by miles and more importantly, connects first time and never loses connection.
Had my usual dashboard running showing all the fuel trims etc and noticed something funny today.
It was adding 25% fuel on the long term fuel trims and reducing fueling by almost as much in the short term trims.
I wonder why it has been running really lean. So much so that it maxed out the LTFT. And even funnier that today it decided to change its mind.
.. Then I realised one thing. I had to turn on my open loop mod this morning.
I had switched off my open loop trickery using my funky light-up button. Must have done it reaching blindly for the seat heating controls.
This tells me two things; open loop trickery is magic and and sadly that also means my map is hitting far too many closed loop areas.
Time to open her up again...
Fixed the map. Last time's tinkering wasn't good.
One thing I want to do is move from the front airflow adjustment dials to using the airflow map for a more precise control. The front dials are across the board. Great for changes in intake/maf setup to bring the MAF back into alignment but not so good for fueling as its not precise enough.
Will take some work.
On another note;
JDL spoiler fitted s:) :) s:)
Very pleased indeed(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180125/34cf6a6717e3f2599b150983f59ebffe.jpg)
I love your spoiler!
Where did you bought it?
Thanks!
It's a JDL Tuning spoiler from madmotors.
m https://www.madmotors.co.uk/spoilers/to ... oiler.html (https://www.madmotors.co.uk/spoilers/toyota-spoilers/toyota-mr2-spoilers/jdl-tuning-toyota-mr2-roadster-rear-spoiler.html) m
There's also this, if it's allowed: m http://exelcompsite.com/index.php/categ ... ot-spoiler (http://exelcompsite.com/index.php/category-list/toyota/mr2-mrs-boot-spoiler) m
Damn... Could have saved 25 quid!
Quote from: "shnazzle"Damn... Could have saved 25 quid!
And a lot more by painting it yourself s:P :P s:P
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "shnazzle"Damn... Could have saved 25 quid!
And a lot more by painting it yourself s:P :P s:P
Not a chance in hell I could have gotten the finish I have now. It was sanded down, basically to remove all the gel coat, filled where necessary to make it smooth, one layer of filler primer and then paint+lacquer.
Only problem is it looks miles better than my car hahaha
Quote from: "shnazzle"Not a chance in hell I could have gotten the finish I have now. It was sanded down, basically to remove all the gel coat, filled where necessary to make it smooth, one layer of filler primer and then paint+lacquer.
Only problem is it looks miles better than my car hahaha
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
You need to learn how to spray paint dude
... And weld... And map....and fabricate...
Oh and I'd need a welder, and a dyno, and a lathe/cnc machine/drill press/etc etc etc etc
Sometimes it's just better to leave it to the pros s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"... And weld... And map....and fabricate...
Oh and I'd need a welder, and a dyno, and a lathe/cnc machine/drill press/etc etc etc etc
Sometimes it's just better to leave it to the pros s:) :) s:)
Map and weld I can teach you s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Welders are cheap on fleabay and you don't need a dyno s:P :P s:P
You're welcome s:D :D s:D
Put the Tim Morton clock mod in.
I really like it.
https://youtu.be/KdQ7hkL83qQ
Unfortunately, I had to snap an HVAC knob pin that mistakenly got glued to the knob :(
Replacement on the way from Mr Sloan
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/31a69b60c47c311a2baec5c0517c654d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/f1d209a1a69bdac9afc573806505a2fa.jpg)
Quote from: shnazzle on February 24, 2018, 18:58
Put the Tim Morton clock mod in.
I really like it.
https://youtu.be/KdQ7hkL83qQ
Unfortunately, I had to snap an HVAC knob pin that mistakenly got glued to the knob :(
Replacement on the way from Mr Sloan
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/31a69b60c47c311a2baec5c0517c654d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/f1d209a1a69bdac9afc573806505a2fa.jpg)
Funny that, I got as far as taking the standard one out and scratching my head then putting it all back together earlier myself [emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@Call the midlife! (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24360)
I know what you mean. It was definitely more fiddly than I thought it would be.
Definitely requires a soldering iron,hot glue gun and some foam (black) or an elaborate plastic frame.
The wires all need shortening to fit in, hence the soldering. Not helped by wires coming off the circuit board due to be manhandled.
The buttons for the clock are set a tiny bit wider than the stock ones but the original pins so press them sufficiently when you remove the rubber inserts.
The hot glue to stick the buttons to the bottom of the frame.
If you send me your stuff I can do it for you if you want and write up a how to
Quote from: shnazzle on February 26, 2018, 15:04
@Call the midlife! (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24360)
I know what you mean. It was definitely more fiddly than I thought it would be.
Definitely requires a soldering iron,hot glue gun and some foam (black) or an elaborate plastic frame.
The wires all need shortening to fit in, hence the soldering. Not helped by wires coming off the circuit board due to be manhandled.
The buttons for the clock are set a tiny bit wider than the stock ones but the original pins so press them sufficiently when you remove the rubber inserts.
The hot glue to stick the buttons to the bottom of the frame.
If you send me your stuff I can do it for you if you want and write up a how to
Cheers for that! I'm not entirely sure I got the same model as you so I'll soldier (solder) on! I actually tentatively fitted it yesterday, lengthened the temperature probe etc but then realised I need to take it all out again to do the soldering. I'm tempted to get my neighbour (sparky) to do it for me as I'm next to useless at it!
Watch this space![emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 26, 2018, 15:09
Quote from: shnazzle on February 26, 2018, 15:04
@Call the midlife! (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24360)
I know what you mean. It was definitely more fiddly than I thought it would be.
Definitely requires a soldering iron,hot glue gun and some foam (black) or an elaborate plastic frame.
The wires all need shortening to fit in, hence the soldering. Not helped by wires coming off the circuit board due to be manhandled.
The buttons for the clock are set a tiny bit wider than the stock ones but the original pins so press them sufficiently when you remove the rubber inserts.
The hot glue to stick the buttons to the bottom of the frame.
If you send me your stuff I can do it for you if you want and write up a how to
Cheers for that! I'm not entirely sure I got the same model as you so I'll soldier (solder) on! I actually tentatively fitted it yesterday, lengthened the temperature probe etc but then realised I need to take it all out again to do the soldering. I'm tempted to get my neighbour (sparky) to do it for me as I'm next to useless at it!
Watch this space![emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I haven't lengthened my probe (*snigger*) as I was torn on whether i wanted to know the internal or external temperature. The external is a bit pointless when I'm inside...that was my logic anyway.
Besides,I see the external when I first get in :)
If you have a sparky next door I guarantee his soldering will be better than mine haha
Quote from: shnazzle on February 26, 2018, 15:19
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 26, 2018, 15:09
Quote from: shnazzle on February 26, 2018, 15:04
@Call the midlife! (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24360)
I know what you mean. It was definitely more fiddly than I thought it would be.
Definitely requires a soldering iron,hot glue gun and some foam (black) or an elaborate plastic frame.
The wires all need shortening to fit in, hence the soldering. Not helped by wires coming off the circuit board due to be manhandled.
The buttons for the clock are set a tiny bit wider than the stock ones but the original pins so press them sufficiently when you remove the rubber inserts.
The hot glue to stick the buttons to the bottom of the frame.
If you send me your stuff I can do it for you if you want and write up a how to
Cheers for that! I'm not entirely sure I got the same model as you so I'll soldier (solder) on! I actually tentatively fitted it yesterday, lengthened the temperature probe etc but then realised I need to take it all out again to do the soldering. I'm tempted to get my neighbour (sparky) to do it for me as I'm next to useless at it!
Watch this space![emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I haven't lengthened my probe (*snigger*) as I was torn on whether i wanted to know the internal or external temperature. The external is a bit pointless when I'm inside...that was my logic anyway.
Besides,I see the external when I first get in :)
If you have a sparky next door I guarantee his soldering will be better than mine haha
To be honest I'm tempted to put it down to experience, bin it and stick with the standard clock!
I don't go out in it if it's freezing anyway and I know if it's hot outside, because it's hot!
But there's a part of me that wants to see it through and get it working, I've got a couple of decent temp probes in my lab so I'm curious to check the accuracy of this one. Or if it even works now I've done the cut and shut, runs ok off a 9v battery.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had some concerns about my voltage so having that visible was helpful.
In the end it wasn't actually too much effort. If I had done it in one sitting it would have taken me 30 mins tops but I spent some time figuring it out.
I like it anyway. Also like that the temp is in 0.00 :)
Quote from: shnazzle on February 26, 2018, 16:47
I had some concerns about my voltage so having that visible was helpful.
In the end it wasn't actually too much effort. If I had done it in one sitting it would have taken me 30 mins tops but I spent some time figuring it out.
I like it anyway. Also like that the temp is in 0.00 :)
Well I've gathered up all the bits, pulled the probe out and if I can remember where my glue gun is I'm going to attempt to destroy it all with too much heat from the iron later![emoji23]
I've got some spare odds and sods of switchgear and terminals so what could possibly go wrong???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very reasonable offer once again with Greenlight so renewed for another year. Only went up by the standard rise in insurance policy rates caused by the ambulance chaser victims
Also changed my chain tensioner. At about 85k miles it's about time.
It has actually quieted the engine down a bit but who could tell over the noise of the intake and exhaust
EDIT: Now that I've taken it for a spin it's MUCH quieter! I had no idea it could make such a difference. Thanks for the tip @Carolyn (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22891)
Bah! Vacuum leak.
massively high fuel trims at idle :(
Wasn't going to stand in the rain and sort it though...
Another day
Hi Patrick
Do you have or know the correct fitting procedure for the chain tensioner please? Or where I can find a workshop manual. I've got one waiting for fitment next week with a service.
Thanks in advance.
Patrick, Carolynne pointed me to the how to so no worries, the thanks.
Quote from: MrT on April 11, 2018, 09:03
Patrick, Carolynne pointed me to the how to so no worries, the thanks.
Didn't even get a chance :)
Well today is not a good day for the sable. Not a good day at all.
No point trying to convince myself it isn't the case, so might as well face the facts and deal with them. Maybe writing it down will help me just put it on paper, make it definite and move on without feeling sick about it.
Head gasket blown
No coolant in tank.
No leaks
White smoke with a hint of sweetness out the exhaust.
Funky sweet smell to oil and looks thin.
Fuel trims at idle very high (which I thought was a vacuum leak, which I tested for and found nothing).
So. Yeah. Head gasket blown.
Good times.
Very sorry to hear this Mate.
Get well soon!
Sh1t. Hope you can see a way forward.
That's a downer.
It the first time I've personally ever heard of one going so your very unlucky.
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 15:13
That's a downer.
It the first time I've personally ever heard of one going so your very unlucky.
Well as Helen says, I brought it on myself.
I was convinced it was going to go at some point. And I do drive it hard. And now it has., so I can't whinge about it
That sucks. Hope you're back on the road real soon!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@mulaz (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20470) up for a project? :)
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2018, 15:20
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 15:13
That's a downer.
It the first time I've personally ever heard of one going so your very unlucky.
Well as Helen says, I brought it on myself.
I was convinced it was going to go at some point. And I do drive it hard. And now it has., so I can't whinge about it
Well. You CAN whinge about it, but it won't make any bloody difference. Make sure you have that head skimmed, 'cos it will be slightly distorted. Time to call in a few favours!!
Sorry to be reading this, hope you get sorted soon.
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2018, 15:20
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 15:13
That's a downer.
It the first time I've personally ever heard of one going so your very unlucky.
Well as Helen says, I brought it on myself.
I was convinced it was going to go at some point. And I do drive it hard. And now it has., so I can't whinge about it
So was there a warning sign it was on its way out or did you just have an inkling that your driving style would eventually bring on its demise ?
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 16:39
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2018, 15:20
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 15:13
That's a downer.
It the first time I've personally ever heard of one going so your very unlucky.
Well as Helen says, I brought it on myself.
I was convinced it was going to go at some point. And I do drive it hard. And now it has., so I can't whinge about it
So was there a warning sign it was on its way out or did you just have an inkling that your driving style would eventually bring on its demise ?
Oh I always knew it was going to go the way I was driving it. Its just 15k early is all :) not just driving style but also the piggyback. Modified=less reliable.
No warning signs. But there usually aren't with a gasket failure. They "just go".
Well at least it wasn't a complete shock, and I bet the spirited driving put plenty of smiles on your face :)
So what engine swap are you going for ;)
Sorry to hear that, that's crap. Hope you get sorted.
That sucks Pat still you have all the right contacts to get sorted and back on the road
Sorry to hear this too Pat and at the wrong time of the year!
Bummer.
I know many will disagree, but you could try some kseal.
Thanks all. Most certainly is the wrong damn time of the year!
Not going for any quick fixes. I always said it would go and I'd do a rebuild or swap.
Unfortunately it's about 1.5-2 years earlier than expected so in no position for a swap. So, going to just have to spend some quality time on the drive.
Good excuse to tidy up my garage/garage-styled-closet and make space for me to work on an engine.
Good times....
Trying to think what caused it. Its not high revs. I never really take it all the way to the limiter.
The only thing I can put it to is some dodgy timing I was running for a while on my piggyback by mistake (always double check your answers before handing in your exams kids!). Meaning, excessive pressure from knock delivered the blow.
That's my best guess for now.
Yes I drive it hard but I always warm it up first. I warm it up as if it were a turbo. I always rev-match on downshifts. But I do slow down using gears a fair bit. This puts a hell of a lot of pressure on the block.
So, either piggyback (I really never noticed any form of bad running) or slowing down too hard in gear at times.
Who knows.
Sorry to hear this Patrick. :'(
Maybe it wasn't you or anything you've done and that engine was always destined to blow the gasket! All I can say is it's got to be easier than doing a head gasket on a V8! :o
I'd love to help but got a long list of stuff needed to pass the MOT and havnt got time to do that at the min! ( was even going to ask you for help! )
Hope you get sorted soon.
Not good Patrick.
Upsides are you have alot of choice as to what you put back in.....
Bad news :(
If we can keep him distracted there is someone with a fairly fresh install of a supercharged V6 that should fit the bill ;) just needs 2 or 3 people to crowbar it out while he`s on the Forum :)
Had a brainwave last night chatting to our very own Wabbitkilla...
If I'm very very lucky, I have a blown gasket in the idle air control valve coolant duct.
Reason I say that is because the car just seems to be running too well to have something as catastrophic as a HG failure
All fingers crossed for you!
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2018, 15:04
Head gasket blown
Wow - not a common fault! Any clues as to what contributed to it??!
Good luck with whatever the way forward might be.... I think time to walk away from the 1.8..... 2GR maybe? >:D
I did start building "the case" I'd have to put to management for mine after it failed its MOT on emissions, but a V6 swap due to one failed O2 sensor (running rich) did seem a little extreme, especially when I need to do suspension and bracing first!
Quote from: Treboeth on April 14, 2018, 23:47
Bad news :(
If we can keep him distracted there is someone with a fairly fresh install of a supercharged V6 that should fit the bill ;) just needs 2 or 3 people to crowbar it out while he`s on the Forum :)
...but wait for him to sort out the manual boost control first....
The plot thickens.
Compression low, but within spec of each other. Could be my gauge.
Plugs look fine.
Definite presence of oil. To be expected.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180415/bf409c3d01e4aea70397cf702632810a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180415/b1d710bd99e2387c8592234be2b6ad17.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180415/34e63727bd02ef24fc3d4555183aee0f.jpg)
Those steam cleaned plugs come up nice ;)
can you borrow a borescope? I'd think you'd be able to see a leak from the gasket into the chamber if it's there.
At the minute I've gone from "right let's do this" to not really being able to see the positive or funny side of it.
The costs seem to spiral no matter what option you choose. Total costs.
So I'm properly down in the dumps about it and gutted I won't have my car for a good while now. Months. No Ding Day that's for sure. Not in an mr2 anyway
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2018, 19:18
At the minute I've gone from "right let's do this" to not really being able to see the positive or funny side of it.
The costs seem to spiral no matter what option you choose. Total costs.
So I'm properly down in the dumps about it and gutted I won't have my car for a good while now. Months. No Ding Day that's for sure. Not in an mr2 anyway
I've got everything but a crank (got another but think it's goosed). If yours is fu barred and you wanna stay 1zz it's yours.
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2018, 19:18
At the minute I've gone from "right let's do this" to not really being able to see the positive or funny side of it.
The costs seem to spiral no matter what option you choose. Total costs.
So I'm properly down in the dumps about it and gutted I won't have my car for a good while now. Months. No Ding Day that's for sure. Not in an mr2 anyway
Chin up, Patrick. You HAVE to be at Ding Day. OK everybody - it's help Patrick time. Who's got an oil-burner sitting around? If we can get one to my workshop, we can sort something, I'm sure.
Quote from: Carolyn on April 15, 2018, 19:30
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2018, 19:18
At the minute I've gone from "right let's do this" to not really being able to see the positive or funny side of it.
The costs seem to spiral no matter what option you choose. Total costs.
So I'm properly down in the dumps about it and gutted I won't have my car for a good while now. Months. No Ding Day that's for sure. Not in an mr2 anyway
Chin up, Patrick. You HAVE to be at Ding Day. OK everybody - it's help Patrick time. Who's got an oil-burner sitting around? If we can get one to my workshop, we can sort something, I'm sure.
As I say. I've got a engine [emoji16] 65k on it.
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2018, 19:18
At the minute I've gone from "right let's do this" to not really being able to see the positive or funny side of it.
The costs seem to spiral no matter what option you choose. Total costs.
So I'm properly down in the dumps about it and gutted I won't have my car for a good while now. Months. No Ding Day that's for sure. Not in an mr2 anyway
If you don't mind a boring standard MR2 there's one here you can borrow for Ding Day - I'll be by the bins in the family wagon!
What's up with Helen's - thought you'd just come in that?
Quote from: tomaky on April 15, 2018, 19:38
Quote from: Carolyn on April 15, 2018, 19:30
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2018, 19:18
At the minute I've gone from "right let's do this" to not really being able to see the positive or funny side of it.
The costs seem to spiral no matter what option you choose. Total costs.
So I'm properly down in the dumps about it and gutted I won't have my car for a good while now. Months. No Ding Day that's for sure. Not in an mr2 anyway
Chin up, Patrick. You HAVE to be at Ding Day. OK everybody - it's help Patrick time. Who's got an oil-burner sitting around? If we can get one to my workshop, we can sort something, I'm sure.
As I say. I've got a engine [emoji16] 65k on it.
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
How do we get it to me? Can we look into shipping?
I've been thoroughly told off for having a pity party hahaha.
And then Carolyn tried to call but I'm afraid to call back as I don't think I can handle a telling off from another powerful woman.
Haha.
It'll get sorted. I have options. I just need to sort it out.
I will be at Ding Day... What was I thinking.
All will be good. Let's not do anything drastic!
I was just about to say you'll bounce back and you've bounced back before I've typed it out :)
It's understandable to be disheartened, the amount of times I've thought why bother, call it a day when something's gone wrong. 24 hrs later I'm back on board hence why I call mine "marmite"
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2018, 19:51
I've been thoroughly told off for having a pity party hahaha.
And then Carolyn tried to call but I'm afraid to call back as I don't think I can handle a telling off from another powerful woman.
Haha.
It'll get sorted. I have options. I just need to sort it out.
I will be at Ding Day... What was I thinking.
All will be good. Let's not do anything drastic!
https://youtu.be/6ZoyCSffM7I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: tricky1138 on April 15, 2018, 19:39
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2018, 19:18
At the minute I've gone from "right let's do this" to not really being able to see the positive or funny side of it.
The costs seem to spiral no matter what option you choose. Total costs.
So I'm properly down in the dumps about it and gutted I won't have my car for a good while now. Months. No Ding Day that's for sure. Not in an mr2 anyway
If you don't mind a boring standard MR2 there's one here you can borrow for Ding Day - I'll be by the bins in the family wagon!
What's up with Helen's - thought you'd just come in that?
Thanks HEAPS Tricky. That's really thoughtful and generous :) I'll definitely keep that line open, if anything to get your car to Ding Day :)
Thoroughly bowled over by the willingness to help you guys. Thanks tons :)
Patrick when you buy a car that has a subframe split in two and sills that look like something reclaimed from the North sea you can cry into your pancakes and stroop waffle.
Until then keep calm and carry on.
Smoke a joint or something.
It will be ok.
Quote from: 1979scotte on April 16, 2018, 13:16
Patrick when you buy a car that has a subframe split in two and sills that look like something reclaimed from the North sea you can cry into your pancakes and stroop waffle.
Until then keep calm and carry on.
Smoke a joint or something.
It will be ok.
Anybody got any weed? :) Hahaha
You're all very right. Stop my bitchin and crack on.
Make sure it is indeed thoroughly gone (Tom told me the same gauge reads VERY low) and then take the next steps.
I've got options lined up. All very good and by very lovely generous people.
Can you check Jacks compression to test the tester?
Quote from: Topdownman on April 16, 2018, 14:00
Can you check Jacks compression to test the tester?
I'm not allowed to touch Jack anymore :) hahha.
I've been barred.
I can drive it and change the music channel. Although the latter is dubious
Not a bad idea. Be worth getting it checked with a known good gauge.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 16, 2018, 14:36
Quote from: Topdownman on April 16, 2018, 14:00
Can you check Jacks compression to test the tester?
I'm not allowed to touch Jack anymore :) hahha.
I've been barred.
I can drive it and change the music channel. Although the latter is dubious
What was I thinking!
Suprised you are allowed to drive him tbh.....
Dear oh Dear.
Glad to see things are looking a bit more positive.
Quote from: Topdownman on April 16, 2018, 14:50
Quote from: shnazzle on April 16, 2018, 14:36
Quote from: Topdownman on April 16, 2018, 14:00
Can you check Jacks compression to test the tester?
I'm not allowed to touch Jack anymore :) hahha.
I've been barred.
I can drive it and change the music channel. Although the latter is dubious
What was I thinking!
Suprised you are allowed to drive him tbh.....
Small difference between allowed and TWOCing......but we won't go there! :P
So my car runs fine...
I don't know anymore. I give up.
All my coolant disappeared, white smoke and deposits on exhaust, overfueling on Bank 1.
It must have gone to the doctor's while I was at work as its fine now.
FML
I have a theory.... but it's only a theory....
You're still going to need a rebuild, I'm afraid, but it's bought some time!
Quote from: Carolyn on April 16, 2018, 21:00
I have a theory.... but it's only a theory....
You're still going to need a rebuild, I'm afraid, but it's bought some time!
Going to keep us in suspense?
Looks like it
Quote from: Carolyn on April 16, 2018, 21:00
I have a theory.... but it's only a theory....
You're still going to need a rebuild, I'm afraid, but it's bought some time!
nearly 2 hrs later and she's still keeping us waiting*.... I'm going to bed, let's hope @Carolyn (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22891) puts us out of our misery by morning!
*my guess is that she's rebuilding a duff engine and trying to recreate the scenario exactly, to prove it before she shares the theory with us?
Quote from: BahnStormer on April 16, 2018, 22:46
Quote from: Carolyn on April 16, 2018, 21:00
I have a theory.... but it's only a theory....
You're still going to need a rebuild, I'm afraid, but it's bought some time!
nearly 2 hrs later and she's still keeping us waiting*.... I'm going to bed, let's hope @Carolyn (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22891) puts us out of our misery by morning!
*my guess is that she's rebuilding a duff engine and trying to recreate the scenario exactly, to prove it before she shares the theory with us?
Or she's off living an actual life that doesn't involve MR2s?...
:) Surely not
Don't be so silly.
It's such a dodgy theory that it's not fit for publication. it involves something self-sealing. Never mind!
Quote from: Carolyn on April 17, 2018, 08:12
It's such a dodgy theory that it's not fit for publication. it involves something self-sealing. Never mind!
I don't think egg white in the fuel tank works the same....
It might have more merit than one would think.
Drove to work today in it, ever so slightly more sympathetically than usual. Not only was it fine (still not happy with Bank 1 fueling issues though) but the coolant I topped up seems to have no raised the coolant levels well beyond full. So.. I never lost coolabt?
As I said before, I don't know...bah. BAH!
I'm blanking the emanage and removing the head steady to give it a breather.
:withstupid:
Quote from: tomaky on April 17, 2018, 10:18
:withstupid:
Tell you what, I feel thoroughly stupid. Haven't got a clue. Just when you think you kind of understand how these things work they throw you a mystery, as if to taunt you. "You don't know sh1t boiii, here figure this one out"
:) the old hide the coolant trick..........
So do you think you've panicked unnecessarily ? If so I shouldn't, but I will pmsl
I think I panicked correctly for the symptoms I had, and then the symptoms went away and I look stupid hahaha
Hehe couldnt resist. As long as all carries on being okay, it can be forgotten.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 17, 2018, 11:35
I think I panicked correctly for the symptoms I had, and then the symptoms went away and I look stupid hahaha
Hmmn, Mods,can we make this a sticky? ;)
Only just seen this.
I hope it's ok - the coolant on these cars is up and down like a yo-yo, never had another car like it, except the other MR2 I had [emoji6].
Maybe it's because of the amount of pipes and coolant, a lot of space to hide it??
But... I last bled my coolant 3 years ago when I did my radiator.
All is definitely not a well and there is a big mystery as
1) my coolant played hide and seek for a while
2) I was plooming white smoke with white dusty residue in exhaust pipes as a result
3) car was overheating to some degree (fan kept kicking in even though the engine was cold and was stood on the drive idling for less than 5mins)
4) exhaust smelled sweet
5) exhaust was wet with sweet smelling clear liquid (not just condensation)
... And now it's just sitting there on the drive looking at me like "April Fools! "
It's definitely mugging you off...
I can't see that there's much more you can do to investigate it at the moment...
I only commented because (as I'm sure you know) they all play hide n seek with the coolant, but yours takes it to a new level with the other tricks up its sleeve...
Is there anything that could have caused an air lock? What was the state of the IACV gasket in the end?
Fair play to you for holding your hands up. No harm done, we've had a chuckle out of it, and your car isn't fubarred, seems like a result.
Even though I'd have just said I repaired it to save face lol
Quote from: Bossworld on April 17, 2018, 14:35
Is there anything that could have caused an air lock? What was the state of the IACV gasket in the end?
Haven't checked yet. It was a prime suspect in my mind.
I think what it comes down to is I have/had coolant going through my engine, but it wasn't the head gasket perse (maybe). So that leaves the IACV (not checked) and water pump (also not checked)
Does this mean we are gonna see you you Saturday. ;)
Quote from: Tomo70 on April 18, 2018, 21:27
Does this mean we are gonna see you you Saturday. ;)
We haven't 100% decided yet but we have organised child care (Helen's parents) in case we do decide to come :)
Bit of an illness situation going on there though so, won't know until Friday
Today was a day of lessons. It started with lesson A) Listen to your wife and ended with B)... Fking listen to your wife.
Helen's been at me about changing my catalytic converter since 2016 when our lovely Steve Nugent diagnosed it as fubar. But me being as anal as I am about fueling, have managed to squeeze it through MOT emissions for 3 years.
Still quite proud of that one, and nobody can take that away from me.
It became a bit of a fun challenge of "can I inch my car through MOT this year with a virtually useless cat?"
Fun times were over though when my precious fueling started to go all over the place and, try as I might, could not get it to settle.
The smell of the cat is now coming into the cabin instead of just gassing people behind me, so thought it time to change it.
Took 45 mins today on my lunch break including driving it on the ramps and cleaning up afterwards.
RESULT! Instant fueling issue resolution. Bit of a raspier note to the exhaust now that the cat actually flows exhaust through it. Must admit the car drives smoother too.
So yeah, I should have listened to Helen 2 years ago.
FYI Tricky this is your old cat that I picked up in 2016 :)
Good fun.
Oh and no other issues to be seen either. Car be like
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180420/1fcbe705e96401dc807ae9370a4148dc.jpg)
I take it you've splashed out on a new new one!!
Didn't have you down for the cheap solution, Patrick.
Quote from: Carolyn on April 20, 2018, 13:12
I take it you've splashed out on a new new one!!
Didn't have you down for the cheap solution, Patrick.
New one? Nah. Freebie off an old car :)
To be replaced by a 200 cell when I get one of Hamish's manifolds.
Ain't no money to splash. An old working cat is better than an old broken one
Quote from: shnazzle on April 20, 2018, 13:03
FYI Tricky this is your old cat that I picked up in 2016 :)
Glad it came to some use! :)
See it's useful to have a garage full of spares! Been telling myself that for years! :-X
.... And back to issues...
Ran so nicely on Saturday covering 258 miles. I watched fueling and all was good.
Today, system too lean error codes. How????
The only thing I can think is during the run I hit a series of surprise potholes really hard which may have rattled something loose.
Sick of cars.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 23, 2018, 21:43
.... And back to issues...
Ran so nicely on Saturday covering 258 miles. I watched fueling and all was good.
Today, system too lean error codes. How????
The only thing I can think is during the run I hit a series of surprise potholes really hard which may have rattled something loose.
Sick of cars.
Too much salad...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 23, 2018, 22:11
Quote from: shnazzle on April 23, 2018, 21:43
.... And back to issues...
Ran so nicely on Saturday covering 258 miles. I watched fueling and all was good.
Today, system too lean error codes. How????
The only thing I can think is during the run I hit a series of surprise potholes really hard which may have rattled something loose.
Sick of cars.
Too much salad...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's that Northumberland air....not as good as Yorkshire's ;)
Cleaned the intake today. Sadly the housing was split but at 80 quid a pop for a new filter, it got repaired :) :) :)
I opened up the throttle body butterfly to find a not insignificant amount of black sludge behind the plate :(
Next mod is Hamish manifold, after that, oil catch can. Don't need that crap in my intake thank you very much
MOT time looming so time fooorrr..
*CAPTAINS LOG - Morpeth date 20180523131522*
- New oil
- New oil filter
- New spark plugs
Latest galaxy update;
I have released the dark matter from the galactical sump. It was a darker matter than I would have liked, but dense as desired.
The dark matter was replaced with exactly 3.7L of fresh Toyota-grade matter, leading me to believe that the hyperdrive is not burning excess resources.
Toyota-matter was chosen as the hyperdrive has been acting up as of late and it may not be prudent to use super-matter.
The flux capacitors were all replaced with Toyota OEM capacitors. Gaps were checked on each before install and unexpected variances were present, and corrected. Some variances as much as 1.4mm. 0.3mm over the required gap.
The exterior of 2 of the used capacitors had oil on the threads. Care was taken to install the new ones with a bit more torque.
The Captain recommends other starblazers check their gaps before installing flux capacitors.
The pink temperature conductive fluid contained traces of oxygen, nitrogen, carbon dioxide and other trace gases. These were expunged from the system via the cooling grid.
Quote from: shnazzle on May 23, 2018, 13:26
The Captain recommends other starblazers check their gaps before installing flux capacitors.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/4mojhwv33/mind.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)photo hosting (https://postimages.org/)
If you've got oil near the plugs, how is your rocker cover gasket looking?
Quote from: Bossworld on May 23, 2018, 16:09
If you've got oil near the plugs, how is your rocker cover gasket looking?
Can't tell obviously but I'm assuming it could be a bit better :D
This year will likely ring in either an engine change or a valve job so it'll come off anyway.
Quote from: shnazzle on May 23, 2018, 16:16
Quote from: Bossworld on May 23, 2018, 16:09
If you've got oil near the plugs, how is your rocker cover gasket looking?
Can't tell obviously but I'm assuming it could be a bit better :D
This year will likely ring in either an engine change or a valve job so it'll come off anyway.
Fair does. The gasket also surrounds the spark plug wells as one piece, hence me asking. I think I read spark plug torque is 25nm, which I seem to remember feeling horribly tight but hey ho.
Quote from: Bossworld on May 23, 2018, 16:20
Quote from: shnazzle on May 23, 2018, 16:16
Quote from: Bossworld on May 23, 2018, 16:09
If you've got oil near the plugs, how is your rocker cover gasket looking?
Can't tell obviously but I'm assuming it could be a bit better :D
This year will likely ring in either an engine change or a valve job so it'll come off anyway.
Fair does. The gasket also surrounds the spark plug wells as one piece, hence me asking. I think I read spark plug torque is 25nm, which I seem to remember feeling horribly tight but hey ho.
I had them in quite loose to be fair. I think it's just that
It's surprising how the capacitors can be so far from the correct setting straight out the box, now you've set them it should make for a cleaner burn during warp speed.
Quote from: wotugonado on May 23, 2018, 16:55
It's surprising how the capacitors can be so far from the correct setting straight out the box, now you've set them it should make for a cleaner burn during warp speed.
So was I! They would have been fine I'm sure. Just surprised thats how they come
Well then number one.... ENGAGE.
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Surely warp speed and Number two should be aligned?! ;)
So confused
Quote from: shnazzle on May 24, 2018, 15:46
So confused
"I've giv'n her all she's got captain, an' I canna give her no more!"
Careful, I've been reprimanded about " Beam me Up" @scottee (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=483) quips ;)
Quote from: Joesson on May 24, 2018, 17:22
Careful, I've been reprimanded about " Beam me Up" @scottee (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=483) quips ;)
Can't even get my username right.
Silly old codger.
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 24, 2018, 19:41
Quote from: Joesson on May 24, 2018, 17:22
Careful, I've been reprimanded about " Beam me Up" @scottee (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=483) quips ;)
Can't even get my username right.
Silly old codger.
Not so much of the "old" please, I've had this feeling of deja vue before.....
MOT next week. Never been worried but this time bricking it :(
Passed!
Front brakes could do with replacing (which I was supposed to do months ago when I did the rears but got lazy :))
And I've introduced a tiny exhaust leak by changing cats. This one has a slightly leaky flexi it seems.
Lambda 1.006. That's something I can live with fo shizzle :)
No CO or HC values though. I doubt I had 0 for both. Odd
EDIT: Normal idle CO was 0.300. Exactly. So, passed with absolutely ZERO margin. :-\ Eek
Patrick, get some catalyst cleaner from Halfords or similar, I cannot remember the exact name of it but it's a grey bottle with green and black text, ah Cataclean... Chuck it in half a tank of fuel and it is like drain cleaner, your 1zz's insides will be shiny clean and the carbon gone, and the cat will flow like new and if not knackered by heat will catalyse like new also! Worth the £8 before every MOT.
Well done on passing though, and get those brakes sorted! 2 things must always be perfect, wheels/tyres and brakes. No point going somewhere if you can't change your mind and stop again!
Funnily enough I said the same thing before I went in for MOT. I forgot to do my yearly Pre-MOT CataClean.
The brakes are fine. It's the offside front brake pipe :(
I'm assuming the hard line. So I'll have to have a look and replace it. Luckily it's the short one so quite easy to do
Ok that's good to hear (read?)...
Congrats on the new MOT, Take it the new place was ok then?
I must admit I was going to run cataclean through mine before this years, after my MOT last year said that it barely passed its emissions, but totally forgot like you did.
Mine this year flew through though. Any ideas why one year its bad and the next its fine?
Quote from: tricky1138 on June 6, 2018, 14:16
Congrats on the new MOT, Take it the new place was ok then?
I must admit I was going to run cataclean through mine before this years, after my MOT last year said that it barely passed its emissions, but totally forgot like you did.
Mine this year flew through though. Any ideas why one year its bad and the next its fine?
New place never happened :D I just couldn't get there and their scheduling was random. So basically you drop it off and they plan it in as and when for that day.
I chose a place local to me. Gave me an 11:30 slot, it went in at 11:30 and by 11:45 I was driving.
Can't say why the emissions would be wildly different. Too many factors.
Quote from: shnazzle on June 6, 2018, 14:21
Quote from: tricky1138 on June 6, 2018, 14:16
Congrats on the new MOT, Take it the new place was ok then?
I must admit I was going to run cataclean through mine before this years, after my MOT last year said that it barely passed its emissions, but totally forgot like you did.
Mine this year flew through though. Any ideas why one year its bad and the next its fine?
New place never happened :D I just couldn't get there and their scheduling was random. So basically you drop it off and they plan it in as and when for that day.
I chose a place local to me. Gave me an 11:30 slot, it went in at 11:30 and by 11:45 I was driving.
Can't say why the emissions would be wildly different. Too many factors.
I thought that might be the case with the emissions. We'll never know!
And oh, so you've found a local friendly MOT station then - 15 mins for an MOT is short! :o
Simplest influences are driving conditions and type of fuel/additives used. Modern fuels are all about cleaning and keeping the engine clean. V-Power and Ultimate specifically have decoking agents that would clean the engine and catalyst.
Also doing a bit more high speed/higher load constant driving will keep the catalyst at temperature longer and break down deposits.
Changed the front brakes today. It was, err, necessary.
Damn near shot myself through the front windshield afterwards
Quote from: shnazzle on July 10, 2018, 17:34
Changed the front brakes today. It was, err, necessary.
Damn near shot myself through the front windshield afterwards
What did you put on?
Going to do mine over winter as they are not great. (Kate's were much better and I only put mintex discs and pads on hers)
Quote from: mikek on July 10, 2018, 18:30
Quote from: shnazzle on July 10, 2018, 17:34
Changed the front brakes today. It was, err, necessary.
Damn near shot myself through the front windshield afterwards
What did you put on?
Going to do mine over winter as they are not great. (Kate's were much better and I only put mintex discs and pads on hers)
Mintex :)
Can't fault them.. Until you glaze them
Quote from: shnazzle on July 10, 2018, 18:53
Quote from: mikek on July 10, 2018, 18:30
Quote from: shnazzle on July 10, 2018, 17:34
Changed the front brakes today. It was, err, necessary.
Damn near shot myself through the front windshield afterwards
What did you put on?
Going to do mine over winter as they are not great. (Kate's were much better and I only put mintex discs and pads on hers)
Mintex :)
Can't fault them.. Until you glaze them
Best not glaze them, then. Always done well with Mintex stuff.
Quote from: shnazzle on July 10, 2018, 18:53
Quote from: mikek on July 10, 2018, 18:30
Quote from: shnazzle on July 10, 2018, 17:34
Changed the front brakes today. It was, err, necessary.
Damn near shot myself through the front windshield afterwards
What did you put on?
Going to do mine over winter as they are not great. (Kate's were much better and I only put mintex discs and pads on hers)
Mintex :)
Can't fault them.. Until you glaze them
Nice bit of Lemon Drizzle?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Discs and pads scored, warped and glazed. Trifecta of brake mayhem(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180710/2cb1e9d2f9e93be6667de051c3ac941f.jpg)
This isnt like you... hehe
Quote from: tomaky on July 11, 2018, 09:40
This isnt like you... hehe
Absolutely demolished these pads. Still tons of meat left.
Offside disc was warped by about 1mm.
The discs have worn really quickly actually, which I've never seen before.
Usually you take discs off and they still kinda look OK.
I didn't get a pic of mine but they were done. Utterly utterly done. Here's a pic of them on the car
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/50c00294249e5d47df101fdf9ecf0c17.jpg)
We talking front or back. Don't think you could get them that hot bar flooring it for a good while with the brake on. I'm impressed at the level of destruction haha
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Funny my discs are demolished too. They are rotten. What pads were you running pat? Sometimes the pads will muller the disc. My yellow stuff will have nearly half left but discs are knackered and rotten. Going for brembo discs this time. These were pagid discs.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/a79aab06b22a492ab80fd362dac4f055.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/3785ca135e2557f47639eb6a4c1b3a5d.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Those were the fronts. Mintex discs and pads.
They've been on quite a while mind.
Quote from: shnazzle on July 11, 2018, 21:20
Those were the fronts. Mintex discs and pads.
They've been on quite a while mind.
How long? Mine 3 years. But maybe 10k miles at the most
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Quote from: CrazySX on July 11, 2018, 21:22
Quote from: shnazzle on July 11, 2018, 21:20
Those were the fronts. Mintex discs and pads.
They've been on quite a while mind.
How long? Mine 3 years. But maybe 10k miles at the most
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Can't find it!
I bought the set I just put on almost exactly a year ago.
The set before that was the only other set I've put on this car. I think over 3 years and 25k miles.
I'm going to need to look this up now.
Ebay purchase history won't go back past 2016 so it was definitely in 2015, possibly 2014
Plans so far:
- rebuild
- zero mani
- stg2 cams
- (maybe 2zz injectors?)
- 12:1 79.5mm pistons
- valve springs to support stg2
- competition flywheel
- 200 cell cat
- maybe different exhaust.
Added to the existing
- Hurricane intake
- bored throttle body
- emanage blue piggyback
Out of interest- say you had the above, but with an EMU Black... What is the theoretical output?
I'm just curious as to the benefits of the black over the apexi that Bernie has?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: jvanzyl on July 29, 2018, 08:52
Out of interest- say you had the above, but with an EMU Black... What is the theoretical output?
I'm just curious as to the benefits of the black over the apexi that Bernie has?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
No idea. Just more features really. So wouldn't expect the power to be too far off
Yeah I was wondering what the tangible gains would be from the extra features...
No worries!
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: jvanzyl on July 29, 2018, 09:23
Yeah I was wondering what the tangible gains would be from the extra features...
No worries!
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Doesn't matter with the deal from RRR the black works out at around the same cost.
Has far superior electronics and features.
Also will work with more than just a 1zz.
Quote from: 1979scotte on July 29, 2018, 10:05
Quote from: jvanzyl on July 29, 2018, 09:23
Yeah I was wondering what the tangible gains would be from the extra features...
No worries!
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Doesn't matter with the deal from RRR the black works out at around the same cost.
Has far superior electronics and features.
Also will work with more than just a 1zz.
Aside from that aspect :)
Going PFC now just seems daft. I mean, no knock-based control? Wtf?
So yeah I guess the EMU can squeeze more out and auto-adjust based on set targets and knock/wb input.
It's a lot better than the PFC for letting the computer figure out how to get the best performance out based on inputs, as opposed to the PFC which is a bit more "garbage in, garbage out". And it's f-in ancient
Quote from: shnazzle on July 28, 2018, 19:53
Plans so far:
- rebuild
- zero mani
- stg2 cams
- (maybe 2zz injectors?)
- 12:1 79.5mm pistons
- valve springs to support stg2
- competition flywheel
- 200 cell cat
- maybe different exhaust.
Added to the existing
- Hurricane intake
- bored throttle body
- emanage blue piggyback
As per Jvanzyl's suggestion on the other thread , the Zero group buy needs to happen (because I want one, but having grown up in Yorkshire it will be a cold day in hell before I think yeah I'll splurge £400 on something I don't really need, whereas If I can splurge £350ish on something I don't really need that normally costs £400 i'll think......
fantastic bargain, must buy now :)) )
(Also, if I ever do finally get around to thinking I WILL spend that £400, they will probably have gone up in price by then ::) )
So Zero GB:
1) Shnazzle
2) KTM Rider
3)Lamcote
4) Jvanzyl
5) Call The Midlife ?
6) StuC ??
7)
Quote from: K T M Rider on July 29, 2018, 14:37
Quote from: shnazzle on July 28, 2018, 19:53
Plans so far:
- rebuild
- zero mani
- stg2 cams
- (maybe 2zz injectors?)
- 12:1 79.5mm pistons
- valve springs to support stg2
- competition flywheel
- 200 cell cat
- maybe different exhaust.
Added to the existing
- Hurricane intake
- bored throttle body
- emanage blue piggyback
As per Jvanzyl's suggestion on the other thread , the Zero group buy needs to happen (because I want one, but having grown up in Yorkshire it will be a cold day in hell before I think yeah I'll splurge £400 on something I don't really need, whereas If I can splurge £350ish on something I don't really need that normally costs £400 i'll think...... fantastic bargain, must buy now :)) )
(Also, if I ever do finally get around to thinking I WILL spend that £400, they will probably have gone up in price by then ::) )
So Zero GB:
1) Shnazzle
2) KTM Rider
3)Lamcote
4) Jvanzyl
5) Call The Midlife ?
6) StuC ??
7)
I think you might be onto something.
It's worth asking right?
I'll start a separate group buy thread to gauge interest.
I need some time yet, so I wouldn't be looking to do that anytime soon.
In preparation for my zero arriving I've thrown caution to the wind and put my emanage map back on. And whilst caution was still mid-air I thought I'd throw in a couple more degrees advance in at around 4-5k.
Engine light straight on with p0135 again but that's just the leaking flexis.
happy bunny. I forgot how much of a difference it actually makes with a strong ignition map. Good fun!
You do realise that you are a philistine with no mechanical sympathy, don't you?
Quote from: Carolyn on August 28, 2018, 18:38
You do realise that you are a philistine with no mechanical sympathy, don't you?
You're not suggesting that engine won't last long enough for the Zero to arrive are you Carolyn?[emoji38]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Carolyn on August 28, 2018, 18:38
You do realise that you are a philistine with no mechanical sympathy, don't you?
I was wondering what was taking so long for my requisite telling off from you :)
Agreed. But at least this time I monitored for knock adjustments. There were none. So happy days
Is this not the engine that was utterly terminal a few months ago?
Quote from: Carolyn on August 28, 2018, 18:58
Is this not the engine that was utterly terminal a few months ago?
Allegedly. At this point I'm pretty much convinced it was an airlock in the coolant.
I've been driving it hard for months now and it hasn't skipped a beat. Other than the obvious exhaust leak related crap
Who knows. I've put it behind me
Quote from: shnazzle on August 28, 2018, 19:16
Quote from: Carolyn on August 28, 2018, 18:58
Is this not the engine that was utterly terminal a few months ago?
Allegedly. At this point I'm pretty much convinced it was an airlock in the coolant.
I've been driving it hard for months now and it hasn't skipped a beat. Other than the obvious exhaust leak related crap
Who knows. I've put it behind me
So where was the engine before you put it behind you?
Quote from: Joesson on August 28, 2018, 21:01
Quote from: shnazzle on August 28, 2018, 19:16
Quote from: Carolyn on August 28, 2018, 18:58
Is this not the engine that was utterly terminal a few months ago?
Allegedly. At this point I'm pretty much convinced it was an airlock in the coolant.
I've been driving it hard for months now and it hasn't skipped a beat. Other than the obvious exhaust leak related crap
Who knows. I've put it behind me
So where was the engine before you put it behind you?
Oh well done Sir....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Joesson on August 28, 2018, 21:01
Quote from: shnazzle on August 28, 2018, 19:16
Quote from: Carolyn on August 28, 2018, 18:58
Is this not the engine that was utterly terminal a few months ago?
Allegedly. At this point I'm pretty much convinced it was an airlock in the coolant.
I've been driving it hard for months now and it hasn't skipped a beat. Other than the obvious exhaust leak related crap
Who knows. I've put it behind me
So where was the engine before you put it behind you?
Not Infront of you surely that would be mx5 yuk
What caused the air lock Pat? ;)
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Quote from: tomaky on August 29, 2018, 20:31
What caused the air lock Pat? ;)
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Whooo knaaaaws
Tehe
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Getting on with 90k miles now and turning into a bit of a money pit.
Current list of issues:
- rusting on door. Probably needs a fair bit of work to repair. May be cheaper to get a donor door.
- cracked 4th runner on manifold, soon to be sorted by the Zero!
- heavily leaking flexis on both banks. Like, as in, so much exhaust is leaving the flexis that post-cat o2 sensor doesn't even read (but does work) and EML comes on immediately after clearing. Sorted next month with the group buy cat.
- nearside front hard brake line advisory at MOT for corrosion. I'll just replace both fronts. Good excuse to finally get rid of my DOT4 race fluid.
- noisy valves. Maybe Carolyn's new tool can come in handy for this!
- broken plastic cover on the tensioner damper from when the belt snapped and whipped into it. Now causing some rusting there and will inevitably lead to seizing. Only so much silicon will protect it.
All in all, not huge things, just signs of age and use. But still... Stuff I need to sort
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Couple of things. Manifold leaks close to the head can result in burnt exhaust valves, if left.
Valve noise cure doesn't require spring removal, just the cams.
I'm still sitting on Spit's bucket bank, I've been holding off on returning it, 'cos Jonbill will need some soon. Any body who needs it, just let me know.
If you decide to tackle your valve noise, you'll need it.
Quote from: Carolyn on October 5, 2018, 09:47
Couple of things. Manifold leaks close to the head can result in burnt exhaust valves, if left.
Valve noise cure doesn't require spring removal, just the cams.
I'm still sitting on Spit's bucket bank, I've been holding off on returning it, 'cos Jonbill will need some soon. Any body who needs it, just let me know.
If you decide to tackle your valve noise, you'll need it.
I'm imagining I might need some buckets swapping around when I do mine but that's not until December/January at the earliest.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Carolyn on October 5, 2018, 09:47
Couple of things. Manifold leaks close to the head can result in burnt exhaust valves, if left.
Valve noise cure doesn't require spring removal, just the cams.
I'm still sitting on Spit's bucket bank, I've been holding off on returning it, 'cos Jonbill will need some soon. Any body who needs it, just let me know.
If you decide to tackle your valve noise, you'll need it.
I knew there'd be some doom and gloom pending :)
The crack is where the 4th runner meets the pre-cat chamber
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: shnazzle on October 5, 2018, 10:15
Quote from: Carolyn on October 5, 2018, 09:47
Couple of things. Manifold leaks close to the head can result in burnt exhaust valves, if left.
Valve noise cure doesn't require spring removal, just the cams.
I'm still sitting on Spit's bucket bank, I've been holding off on returning it, 'cos Jonbill will need some soon. Any body who needs it, just let me know.
If you decide to tackle your valve noise, you'll need it.
I knew there'd be some doom and gloom pending :)
The crack is where the 4th runner meets the pre-cat chamber
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
That's far enough away not to be a problem.
What Carolyn says:
Quote from: Carolyn on October 5, 2018, 10:53
That's far enough away not to be a problem.
What Patrick hears:
Quote from: Carolyn on October 5, 2018, 10:53
Your car is invincible- you're an amazing driver and the fuzz will never catch you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Too right! POOWWEEERRR
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Front Brake lines aren't horrendous and even easier if you don't try to replicate some of the stick bends. I was fortunate to have a FB member in Palmersville lend me a decent quality flare maker, but it should be less than £40 all in to replace both front lines yourself.
Hey Pat what's this valve noise you describe? Are the lifters hydraulic? My engine sometimes ticks noisily, I'm sure it's only a single tick and after a bit of a run it stops (warms up?) But doesn't always happen either. Do you have this issue?
PS, I'm nearing 130k miles, lots of motorway though...
Quote from: Bossworld on October 5, 2018, 21:11
Front Brake lines aren't horrendous and even easier if you don't try to replicate some of the stick bends. I was fortunate to have a FB member in Palmersville lend me a decent quality flare maker, but it should be less than £40 all in to replace both front lines yourself.
Excellent! I'll be giving you a shout in due time then :) haha
Quote from: MrT on October 12, 2018, 21:23
Hey Pat what's this valve noise you describe? Are the lifters hydraulic? My engine sometimes ticks noisily, I'm sure it's only a single tick and after a bit of a run it stops (warms up?) But doesn't always happen either. Do you have this issue?
PS, I'm nearing 130k miles, lots of motorway though...
It's just a tickety-tickety. It's nothing horrendous but definitely a sign of some generous clearances.
They're not hydraulic, but use little buckets that should sit very very close to the back of the cam lobes. So that when the lobe turns it smoothly "picks up" the bucket and pushed the valve open. If there's too much of a gap, the lobe taps against the bucket at first contact, causing the ticking noise.
It's nothing to worry about, just, noisy.
If it doesn't happen when the engine is warm I'd be tempted to say you're well within tolerance as the metal expanding is probably covering the gap enough to prevent ticking.
My cleaeances are clearly much more off as no level of warm gets them to tick less :)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Dev's door shut bushes went on today. Very pleased indeed. No more door rattles.
I'd recommend them but I think this was the last batch :(
Quote from: shnazzle on January 14, 2019, 20:49
Dev's door shut bushes went on today. Very pleased indeed. No more door rattles.
I'd recommend them but I think this was the last batch :(
Read your feedback on these with interest - I have some days off next week - looking forward to fitting them myself and a little test run.
I reckon it's very car-specific. The night /day difference for me was the lack of rattling over bumps now. But you probably don't have those anyway on stock suspension.
I'll let the handling side of things settle in for a while to make sure I'm not imagining things. All I know is that I have a very good feel for my car's handling and something isn't the same now. Need to figure out what.
I'm about 65% certain it's my wider front wheel base vs rear leading to a resistance to steer in
Car's finally in to replace my cracked manifold with my beautiful Zero manifold and a new custom cat to replace the knackered and leaking cat.
Dropped it all off with fresh Toyota gaskets and a long o2 sensor for the bank 1 sensor 1
Once this is done, I'm going to start taking better care of my car again. It'll get a fresh service before the next MOT and potentially a couple of cans of EGR cleaner, new Toyota power steering fluid, brake fluid and maybe an engine flush with some diesel engine oil.
@shnazzle (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18356) - Further to your reference to diesel engine oil as a cleaning agent:
For the last four years I have been using a Mobil oil that is specified by Mobil as suitable for everyday use in my 2 and similarly in my daily Ford Diesel.
This means that I only need buy/ keep one type of oil. I usually buy it from Wilko at £26/5L
Links to Wilko and Mobil
https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/mobil-super-3000x1-fully-synthetic-motor-oil-5w30-5l/p/0342808?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-9Gb65mv4AIVF5zVCh1CIQKVEAQYBSABEgKgE_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://lubes.mobil.com/uk-english-lcw/carengineoils_which-oil.aspx
That's interesting. Sounds like a good candidate then!
Bad pics but you get the point.
Zero manifold and brand new custom built cat :)
One happy bunny. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/739bf8cfb06adcb6fd5def8ad845d6bc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/cd53161d52bcd8f29be4b7fbd7e00aed.jpg)
Looks the bob ;)
Couple more(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/eb0114274b6469b6460ebcbcbc57ea5e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/ce6ce05bf0a1b6283f5ca5f02c5d1aa6.jpg)
Looks very well made, what's it sound like?
Fantastic. Particularly around 4k rpm or so. Actually all over the rev range :)
The cat just made it a bit louder but actually a lot less than I thought. Mind, I drove it around with knackered flexis and cracks in mani for about 6 months.
Really really pleased with this. And, it's made a rather unexpected difference to performance lower down.
One downside... I think I now need to adjust my map as there's a bit of a flat at about 5k in 3rd.
Need to reset my ecu as well though. I had a knackered o2 sensor before as well.
Knackered flexis cracked manifolds broken O2 sensors me thinks you need a better maintance regime
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 14, 2019, 20:26
Knackered flexis cracked manifolds broken O2 sensors me thinks you need a better maintance regime
Correct sir.
And I do believe I have covered that a few posts above this one :)
There's a plausible story behind all of it.
Last cat no longer worked. Got a 2nd hand cat off Tricky to get me through MOT. Unfortunately it had knackered flexis and the cat was juuust good enough to get me through two MOTs.
The manifold cracked on Tom's Yorkshire run when piling through some massive potholes. Possibly aided by the fact that it was wrapped.
The above two items are rather pricey to replace. So had to save.
Then Zero took about 8 weeks longer than advertised. So there's 2 months.
The o2 sensor, well, come on.. They go ALL the time! Haha
Quote from: shnazzle on February 14, 2019, 20:31
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 14, 2019, 20:26
Knackered flexis cracked manifolds broken O2 sensors me thinks you need a better maintance regime
Correct sir.
And I do believe I have covered that a few posts above this one :)
There's a plausible story behind all of it.
Last cat no longer worked. Got a 2nd hand cat off Tricky to get me through MOT. Unfortunately it had knackered flexis and the cat was juuust good enough to get me through two MOTs.
The manifold cracked on Tom's Yorkshire run when piling through some massive potholes. Possibly aided by the fact that it was wrapped.
The above two items are rather pricey to replace. So had to save.
Then Zero took about 8 weeks longer than advertised. So there's 2 months.
The o2 sensor, well, come on.. They go ALL the time! Haha
So what we are saying is that is Tom's fault?
Fair enough.
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 14, 2019, 21:00
Quote from: shnazzle on February 14, 2019, 20:31
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 14, 2019, 20:26
Knackered flexis cracked manifolds broken O2 sensors me thinks you need a better maintance regime
Correct sir.
And I do believe I have covered that a few posts above this one :)
There's a plausible story behind all of it.
Last cat no longer worked. Got a 2nd hand cat off Tricky to get me through MOT. Unfortunately it had knackered flexis and the cat was juuust good enough to get me through two MOTs.
The manifold cracked on Tom's Yorkshire run when piling through some massive potholes. Possibly aided by the fact that it was wrapped.
The above two items are rather pricey to replace. So had to save.
Then Zero took about 8 weeks longer than advertised. So there's 2 months.
The o2 sensor, well, come on.. They go ALL the time! Haha
So what we are saying is that is Tom's fault?
Fair enough.
It is!
Captain's log.
Service 80% done today. New plugs. Went for plain old NGK BKR5EYA-11. Had the BKR6E-11 in this year because I had some, but thought I'd revert to stock. Looked perfect when they came out so, no harm at all running one step colder on my setup.
MAF cleaned. Air filter cleaned and pipes covered in fresh heat reflective tape.
Sprayed a good amount of carb cleaner through the intake VSV tube and blasted that through the engine. Hopefully cleaned the plenum and intake valves a bit.
A bottle of injector cleaner in the tank.
Just oil and oil filter left to do and then the valve clearances are being sorted as I'm sick of sounding like a tractor
Not a bad mornings work
I lied. They weren't bkr6e-11, they were actually Densos, which have code K16R-U11. The 6 threw me off.
And frankly... They could look better.
Bear in mind that this is with completely off fueling due to the massive exhaust leaks. So, all things considered not horrendous
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190307/3b7936b2f69e576b9a76c05dfd0650e7.jpg)
Thought I'd try some different stuff this time
Motul oil. Can't be bad can it?
K&N waste of money filter, but looks cool... To me..
And a universal Denso o2.
Very pleased with the o2 sensor actually. It comes with everything you need and instructions! Saves a lot of money
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190313/80bb31b5b8822ee3e748050bac3724e6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190313/fe7fb16b26d7d52c1f48d7307857afcf.jpg)
That's interesting. I use the punk shrink-fit connectors too.
Used them to extend JZV's Densos for his Zero. Sixteen of the buggers!!
Universal o2 works a treat. One thing I noticed is that my new o2 picks up voltage very quickly on a fresh cold start. From the second you turn the key the o2 voltage rises very progressively.
My bank 1 sensor was just flat and didn't start to read voltage until the new bank 2 was up to temp.
No code on the bank 1 so it just goes to show the difference between an old one and a new one. The heater on the old one is clearly on the way out
Quote from: shnazzle on March 19, 2019, 08:50
Universal o2 works a treat. One thing I noticed is that my new o2 picks up voltage very quickly on a fresh cold start. From the second you turn the key the o2 voltage rises very progressively.
My bank 1 sensor was just flat and didn't start to read voltage until the new bank 2 was up to temp.
No code on the bank 1 so it just goes to show the difference between an old one and a new one. The heater on the old one is clearly on the way out
Proof yet again that just because something works doesn't mean it works properly.
Like suspension with 100k on it or 8 year old tyres.
Had a fantastic drive in today after I fettled the piggyback a bit last night.
Fueling good again and tons of torque back. Happy days
From 112 to 113lbft? Haha
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Quote from: tomaky on March 19, 2019, 10:18
From 112 to 113lbft? Haha
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
When you've not got a big fat porker every little bit matters. :thebird:
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 19, 2019, 10:21
Quote from: tomaky on March 19, 2019, 10:18
From 112 to 113lbft? Haha
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
When you've not got a big fat porker every little bit matters. :thebird:
Damn right!
Well, put it this way, I get wheel spin rather easily now whereas before I had to force it, which my clutch would not thank me for
That might be the most asbo thing I've read from you [emoji23] the r888s refuse to spin.
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Quote from: tomaky on March 19, 2019, 10:29
That might be the most asbo thing I've read from you [emoji23] the r888s refuse to spin.
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Complete turd they span plenty at Scotch Corner.
So much that you had to be rescued.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 19, 2019, 10:40
Quote from: tomaky on March 19, 2019, 10:29
That might be the most asbo thing I've read from you [emoji23] the r888s refuse to spin.
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Complete turd they span plenty at Scotch Corner.
So much that you had to be rescued.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190319/9cc91eeefbbe22a73baec56495c73aa9.jpg)
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 19, 2019, 10:40
Quote from: tomaky on March 19, 2019, 10:29
That might be the most asbo thing I've read from you [emoji23] the r888s refuse to spin.
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Complete turd they span plenty at Scotch Corner.
So much that you had to be rescued.
Didn't have to be just had a bloody panic attacking girlfriend haha
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Yes I'm back obsessing about fueling and stuff, following the install of my Zero manifold and new cat.
Go on, get it out your system...
In the meantime, I've been collecting logs to try to determine where my map is failing me and causing the issues.
Created a spreadsheet that creates a nice little 16x16 table based on loading in logs from Torque Pro on rpm, throttle and LTFT1/2. Finds all the values, splits them across throttle and rpm and averages the trims.
Result so far after just 3 logs-worth are interesting already.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190319/e9e0bc2c2c6e40f3bb7701105e142710.jpg)
You know what that's telling you don't you?
Your car knows Kung Fu...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 19, 2019, 22:14
You know what that's telling you don't you?
Your car knows Kung Fu...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Que?
never mind that, a man of your talents with all those divide by zero errors! ;)
Quote from: delhusband on March 19, 2019, 22:46
never mind that, a man of your talents with all those divide by zero errors! ;)
Don't even..
I was going to add error handling into the formula but its already quite long!
Once I start adding more parameters (timing and o2 voltage) I'll switch to VBA to do the analysis :)
I reckon if I do the same for o2 voltage and cross-reference against trims, I can get a decent impression of the stock target AFR map :)
0.45=stoich., so it should be easy to map out where it's targeting 14.7...which I think is damn near everywhere but full throttle
Quote from: shnazzle on March 19, 2019, 22:43
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 19, 2019, 22:14
You know what that's telling you don't you?
Your car knows Kung Fu...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Que?
https://youtu.be/6vMO3XmNXe4
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: delhusband on March 19, 2019, 22:46
never mind that, a man of your talents with all those divide by zero errors! ;)
=IFERROR(<your existing formula>,"")
Will fix this. Sets all errors to blank cells.
Quote from: Alex Knight on March 20, 2019, 11:34
Quote from: delhusband on March 19, 2019, 22:46
never mind that, a man of your talents with all those divide by zero errors! ;)
=IFERROR(<your existing formula>,"")
Will fix this. Sets all errors to blank cells.
Did this on my version already.
But, with a few thousands rows of data so far, it has made it very slow. So, going down VBA route now.
There we go. Can now flexibly choose the table resolution as well.
I tried doing a 64x64 table which leads to even more interesting results.
The only thing I don't like is that I'm averaging the LTFT bank 1 and bank 2. The core assumption in that is that both sensors are equally accurate, and that fueling across both banks is similar. It hides that one bank could be running leaner than another for one reason or another.
What this tells me is that my low load areas are smashing but the part throttle areas not so much.
Good news is that it seems to be an almost flat value of about 7%. Easy fix!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190320/f515bd65db38f984fa6b22b454681876.jpg)
Oil and filter change today.
This little doodad on the oil bottle is awfully handy
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190322/735615b821e4200165743685779daecc.jpg)
Whilst under the automobile I did see something I didn't like, engine mount rubber is just holding on on two sides. No wonder the head steady made such a difference :) Time for some Sikaflex treatment. Didn't have any in the house unfortunately:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190322/16d3c3b422c6d9718a6335a1e49550b5.jpg)
Also took some pics of the cat:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190322/c58dc92f27d1c17a505138e0e9c05cf4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190322/c84514cb6b9f7a043fa806d7b9254768.jpg)
The gaps on the sides are as it's made.
But doubtless it will be floppy.
Clean as thoroughly as you cam. Tooth brush, degreaser, then fairy liquid and then water.
Jack the engine to centre the bush. Put goop in from both sides.
Leave jacked for 24 hours to cure.
Oh that's odd. At the top there I felt a load of rubber deposit like as if the mount had been attached there at one point.
Regardless, it's getting stuffed.
As usual the engine oil replacement job was 20mins to let it drip a while and replace oil and 40 mins to remove and replace the damn nappies! I hate those things
Quote from: shnazzle on March 22, 2019, 13:10
40 mins to remove and replace the damn nappies! I hate those things
exactly that :(
in this pic, you can see an example of the extra bit of rubber- It does not connect, it's simply a buffer.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 22, 2019, 13:10
Oh that's odd. At the top there I felt a load of rubber deposit like as if the mount had been attached there at one point.
Regardless, it's getting stuffed.
As usual the engine oil replacement job was 20mins to let it drip a while and replace oil and 40 mins to remove and replace the damn nappies! I hate those things
At the age my car has reached, I consider it a grown up, so I don't force it to wear a nappy anymore...
Quote from: smarty72 on March 22, 2019, 15:50
Quote from: shnazzle on March 22, 2019, 13:10
Oh that's odd. At the top there I felt a load of rubber deposit like as if the mount had been attached there at one point.
Regardless, it's getting stuffed.
As usual the engine oil replacement job was 20mins to let it drip a while and replace oil and 40 mins to remove and replace the damn nappies! I hate those things
At the age my car has reached, I consider it a grown up, so I don't force it to wear a nappy anymore...
I know! But you know me... I get worried when people start talking about how the nappies help with airflow into the engine bay and even downforce/lift!
If someone could say, with some certainty, that it has no negative effects then they'd be off.
Concerns I have are:
- the gaping hole into the flywheel (like everyone else, my little plastic cover is long gone)
- excessive corrosion, as it is an all-year daily
- downforce/lift
- engine bay temps.
@shnazzle (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18356) -
I've said previously that I believe manufacturer's do things for a reason. I can't see why Toyota would put the three ( is it in total) under trays on the 2 if there were not valid reasons.
The "concerns" that you have are likely among the "reasons".
Quote from: Joesson on March 23, 2019, 09:33
@shnazzle (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18356) -
I've said previously that I believe manufacturer's do things for a reason. I can't see why Toyota would put the three ( is it in total) under trays on the 2 if there were not valid reasons.
The "concerns" that you have are likely among the "reasons".
Exactly. They can't just be cosmetic.
What I do find ridiculous is the pointless oil draining "port" in the mid nappy. It's far too small so it just goes into the nappy and causes a massive mess and you can't get to the oil filter. Why would you drain oil without changing the filter.
So, on that note, Toyota designers can sometimes get it very wrong.
Coincidence!
I 've just used a link from another member to an article about rustproofing and te following I borrowed from that:
"Plastic undertrays are employed by car manufacturers mainly for aerodynamic reasons and they can be as frustrating to
remove as wheelarch liners. They can also hold water against metal and promote corrosion, especially on subframes."
Quote from: shnazzle on March 23, 2019, 09:36
Quote from: Joesson on March 23, 2019, 09:33
@shnazzle (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18356) -
I've said previously that I believe manufacturer's do things for a reason. I can't see why Toyota would put the three ( is it in total) under trays on the 2 if there were not valid reasons.
The "concerns" that you have are likely among the "reasons".
Exactly. They can't just be cosmetic.
What I do find ridiculous is the pointless oil draining "port" in the mid nappy. It's far too small so it just goes into the nappy and causes a massive mess and you can't get to the oil filter. Why would you drain oil without changing the filter.
So, on that note, Toyota designers can sometimes get it very wrong.
I believe they also got the oil control ring design a bit wrong too [emoji848].
Not saying you are wrong, and I can't give you any science about downforce / airflow etc (although never had any issues with handling on trackdays without one).
But what I would say with regard to corrosion is there's plenty of people that have bought cars with nappies on that were masking gaping holes in the subframe. There's plenty that have (apparently) scuppered the MOT tester who gave them a clean bill of health too.
Mine didn't go back on as a couple of the bolts were made from soft cheese and sheared off and I like regular oil changes...
I suggest that the reason the nappies are removed and not replaced is because is the nappy has not been regularly removed previously and the metal fixings have corroded in place over time and break off when they are removed.
This nappy removal and refitting,with cable ties or whatever, then becomes a chore!
The retapping of the tray fixings was one of my first jobs on my 2. I replaced all the steel fixings with stainless.
My tray is removed once a year, it allows easier access for oil and filter change and importantly a good look around at what is occurring in a relatively clean and dirt and road debris protected area. The tray is then replaced, in not many minutes, to carry on with whatever it was intended to do.
Just realised AC isn't working... Great just before summer.
A/C clutch kicks in fine and it's spinning but no cold air.
I had it regassed not that long ago (a year or so). I have noticed it hasn't been particularly chilly air for a while, always just thought I didn't have it on long enough. Which is stupid as that's not how it works..
Not a DIY thing either so unfortunately off to a garage for the first time in years.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 20, 2019, 10:16
Just realised AC isn't working... Great just before summer.
A/C clutch kicks in fine and it's spinning but no cold air.
I had it regassed not that long ago (a year or so). I have noticed it hasn't been particularly chilly air for a while, always just thought I didn't have it on long enough. Which is stupid as that's not how it works..
Not a DIY thing either so unfortunately off to a garage for the first time in years.
Very happy to recommend the guy that sorted mine, knows his stuff inside out.
Graham Stobbs - http://www.coolauto.co.uk
I know he was having issues with emails through the website last summer
Quote from: Bossworld on April 20, 2019, 20:42
Quote from: shnazzle on April 20, 2019, 10:16
Just realised AC isn't working... Great just before summer.
A/C clutch kicks in fine and it's spinning but no cold air.
I had it regassed not that long ago (a year or so). I have noticed it hasn't been particularly chilly air for a while, always just thought I didn't have it on long enough. Which is stupid as that's not how it works..
Not a DIY thing either so unfortunately off to a garage for the first time in years.
Very happy to recommend the guy that sorted mine, knows his stuff inside out.
Graham Stobbs - http://www.coolauto.co.uk
I know he was having issues with emails through the website last summer
Excellent, thanks Joe.
If possible, do you mind PMing/messaging me what you paid? Just so it can go on the budget spreadsheet :)
Quote from: shnazzle on April 20, 2019, 21:33
Quote from: Bossworld on April 20, 2019, 20:42
Quote from: shnazzle on April 20, 2019, 10:16
Just realised AC isn't working... Great just before summer.
A/C clutch kicks in fine and it's spinning but no cold air.
I had it regassed not that long ago (a year or so). I have noticed it hasn't been particularly chilly air for a while, always just thought I didn't have it on long enough. Which is stupid as that's not how it works..
Not a DIY thing either so unfortunately off to a garage for the first time in years.
Very happy to recommend the guy that sorted mine, knows his stuff inside out.
Graham Stobbs - http://www.coolauto.co.uk
I know he was having issues with emails through the website last summer
Excellent, thanks Joe.
If possible, do you mind PMing/messaging me what you paid? Just so it can go on the budget spreadsheet :)
Sent you a text. Hopefully you don't need a new condenser
Not sure how much longer my roof is going to be waterproof :'( :'( :'( The symmetrical holes on both sides are getting bigger.
Trip to Wales is definitely not in the budget anytime soon.
Might be a job soon for @dick2ski (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24569)
Did order some stuff to fix some issues; an oil catch can, some windscreen adhesive for the engine mounts and copper brake like repair kit for my knackered front hard lines. Oh the fun times ahead
Quote from: shnazzle on May 2, 2019, 21:32
Trip to Wales is definitely not in the budget anytime soon.
Other than the one later this month!? ;)
I feel your pain RE: leaky roof.
Fore and aft engine mount filling done today to try to resolve the slop a bit.
Lifted the engine a fair bit so that it was centered in the mounts (slightly higher actually to allow for some sagging) and then got filling.
Used sikaflex 255fc. Went for that as it had a Shore rating of about 55A, which should be a good balance of firmness and compliance.
That is nasty stuff! I had to bathe my hands in white spirit to get it off. Gloves heavily recommended. Dries rather quickly as well. Seemingly much quicker than Tiger Seal.
Hopefully that'll stop some rocking. But, I think I might save for some new mounts. Especially for how easy it is to replace them.
Engine damper fitting was a fail as I couldn't get the bracket to line up. Will have to investigate further.
Engine damper is now in and very pleased with the results. A bit of vibration in cabin but gear shifts are even more seamless now. Winner. There is an odd "clunk" when I first start reversing though so something is moving.
Also this arrived
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190508/f83c1096f8420995bf031eee0a9dafbf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190508/000f455e910f3ca03add6a7b22ff1ba1.jpg)
Never mind the catch can, what the hell is in the Sesame street mug??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 8, 2019, 19:14
Never mind the catch can, what the hell is in the Sesame street mug??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My severely over-milked tea in my favourite Cookie Monster cup
Quote from: shnazzle on May 8, 2019, 19:17
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 8, 2019, 19:14
Never mind the catch can, what the hell is in the Sesame street mug??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My severely over-milked tea in my favourite Cookie Monster cup
The mug is forgivable, the tea...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 8, 2019, 19:18
Quote from: shnazzle on May 8, 2019, 19:17
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 8, 2019, 19:14
Never mind the catch can, what the hell is in the Sesame street mug??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My severely over-milked tea in my favourite Cookie Monster cup
The mug is forgivable, the tea...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know. I usually have it rather dark :(
I make Helen's tea, then take her teabag and put it in mine with a fresh one and leave it until a nice little film forms :) Then a tad milk. Sorted :) 1 sugar on a rough day
Much hilarity fitting the catch can.
Got some ebay hoses; "reinforced", oil and fuel safe hoses. Fitted the lot (easier said than done for that pipe on the intake mani!). And went for a drive to check for vacuum leaks.
No leaks but on return, the "reinforced" hoses had well and truly collapsed! Message sent to seller.
Then later I thought, I wonder if they expand again under atmospheric pressure. So, opened engine and revved it.
Yes! Haha! The pipes "pulse" into life with each opening of the throttle.
Proper pikey catch can setup.
14 quid catch can and 4 quid ebay hoses. But, it works!
Not happy with the location so it's getting moved to the strut tower soon. There's a nice little property - made hole in it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/f0e963b353e4119d741c4e5b5003763b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/343a7168ef624264ca9075ec84144d48.jpg)
New rear tyres arrived. Good stuff. Little less urgent now with the sudden increase in temperature.
I opened up my catch can, just out of curiosity.
Already a healthy film of oil on the baffle and one drip in the can. I'm surprised, that's just after a couple of days.
I'm glad I fitted this :)
Quote from: shnazzle on May 14, 2019, 16:34
New rear tyres arrived. Good stuff. Little less urgent now with the sudden increase in temperature.
I opened up my catch can, just out of curiosity.
Already a healthy film of oil on the baffle and one drip in the can. I'm surprised, that's just after a couple of days.
I'm glad I fitted this :)
Reminds me of the old juice loosener
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viejY6UZ5Bk
(Delete if too off topic) :-[
Looks good :), although as mentioned on other thread i would move the catch can above the breather outlet on rocker cover or it will fill much quicker as oil can drain down into it, also use proper hoses that dont collapse under vacuum or its kind of pointless and engine cant breath :D
Quote from: thetyrant on May 15, 2019, 12:03
Looks good :), although as mentioned on other thread i would move the catch can above the breather outlet on rocker cover or it will fill much quicker as oil can drain down into it, also use proper hoses that dont collapse under vacuum or its kind of pointless and engine cant breath :D
Yes the pipes definitely need replacing. Still not sure how it would fill quicker being where it is. Can you explain? The valve cover isn't filled with oil that just spill out of the pcv :)
Quote from: shnazzle on May 15, 2019, 12:50
Quote from: thetyrant on May 15, 2019, 12:03
Looks good :), although as mentioned on other thread i would move the catch can above the breather outlet on rocker cover or it will fill much quicker as oil can drain down into it, also use proper hoses that dont collapse under vacuum or its kind of pointless and engine cant breath :D
Yes the pipes definitely need replacing. Still not sure how it would fill quicker being where it is. Can you explain? The valve cover isn't filled with oil that just spill out of the pcv :)
Also interested on this one, bearing in mind the standard pipe runs downhill to the intake?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ive always found it best practise to have it higher up as recommended to me by an old tuner that used to work on my car, mainly on boosted engines though which of course can breath a bit heavier so maybe more of an issue there. I guess you could try a back to back run it for awhile lower down and same with it higher up see what happens.
To be honest on one of these cars in NA form for it shouldn't really be needed anyhows, but its nice to have a clean intake :D
Quote from: thetyrant on May 15, 2019, 13:49
Ive always found it best practise to have it higher up as recommended to me by an old tuner that used to work on my car, mainly on boosted engines though which of course can breath a bit heavier so maybe more of an issue there. I guess you could try a back to back run it for awhile lower down and same with it higher up see what happens.
To be honest on one of these cars in NA form for it shouldn't really be needed anyhows, but its nice to have a clean intake :D
Having it higher makes sense, no argument there, just wondering why Toyota do it the other way? Unless as discussed with Patrick earlier it's to help avoid condensate potentially getting back to the head and contaminating the oil.
All I know is I don't want it all going through my shiny, new TB and clean intake manifold.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It'd be very very impressive if condensation made it through the filters of this catch can. But in any case, pcv is one way, no nowt is going to get back in that way and the intake spends a lot of time in vacuum state (idle and overrun) which would draw far more oil vapour in than condensation would ever do.
But yes, could very easily do back to back and you're also right in that they're usually mounted higher up.
Just can't think why
Edit: a brief Google tells me that it only needs to be mounted higher if you have a drain-back setup. Which we don't :)
A lot of the time on big power tuned cars they are fitted onto non factory breather outlets, so a big - fitting drilled into the rocker cover as an example, this isnt always baffled like the oe ports so oil can get flung into the breather by spinning camshafts etc and then its essential to have it mounted higher up, most case fitted to OE breather port that should have a baffle plate to separate flying oil it shouldn't matter too much either way i guess, also remember Toyotas design is based on a perfect engine not one with many miles and possible heavy breathing.
There is mixed opinion when you start looking into but i just stick with what i know works, i quite like this article - https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/engine-breather-system.html
Looks like a good article, will give it a read
Saw this link to a video that confirms that my catch can is a pretty darn good copy of a very expensive Mishimoto, for a 10th of the price.
https://youtu.be/T-B4VRxAtbw
So far so happy, it seems to be catching a fair bit of blow-by even just after a week.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190518/1a820aeb5d3b0cbaef500161d4234a1b.jpg)
Thanks for sharing.
The ´couple of days´/ ´couple of weeks´ , translates to how many kms/miles?
I put an akin catch tanks on several previous cars but those were turbo diesels with manual boost valve tweeking the pressure.
On an NA it is usually not necessary although it doés keep the inlet cleaner*.
The Spirit MR-S does have one fitted but that is on a tuned 2ZZ with a lot of blow-by and the can has a drain back to the sump.
*For those shocked by the oily residue going through the intake: The catch tank cools ánd separates the oil which is in vapour/mist in the crank case fumes from the cam covers. It does not separate like this in the inlet but is simply sucked in with the thousands of litres of air/ minute, going through there at high speed: It is not like thís in the inlet.
Quote from: Petrus on May 18, 2019, 08:59
Thanks for sharing.
The ´couple of days´/ ´couple of weeks´ , translates to how many kms/miles?
I put an akin catch tanks on several previous cars but those were turbo diesels with manual boost valve tweeking the pressure.
On an NA it is usually not necessary although it doés keep the inlet cleaner*.
The Spirit MR-S does have one fitted but that is on a tuned 2ZZ with a lot of blow-by and the can has a drain back to the sump.
*For those shocked by the oily residue going through the intake: The catch tank cools ánd separates the oil which is in vapour/mist in the crank case fumes from the cam covers. It does not separate like this in the inlet but is simply sucked in with the thousands of litres of air/ minute, going through there at high speed: It is not like thís in the inlet.
Spot on. It's not like "sludge" is pouring through your valves all the time. It's a very fine mist.
It's worth noting that the catch can is not necessary on the stock 1zz, but it does keep things a bit cleaner. On a 2zz,personally I would put it as a matter of course. And turbo+supercharged cars of course.
Another point is that catch cans really prevent damage and poor running mostly on direct injection engines where the only thing that hits your valves is air and the oil/fuel vapour. This is when you see those pictures of coked up black valves. Especially mixed with EGR in modern diesels, it's just a recipe for disaster.
On our port injection engines where fuel is mixed with air before it hits the valves, its less of an issue as the valves are cleaned by the fuel. This is why I run vpower fuel. Not because it's superior fuel but because it has good cleaning agents which keep the valves and injectors nice and clear.
Now with the catch can, the vpower doesn't have to clean off oil residue anymore :) And my fuel mixture isn't dirtied by oil mist,making for a cleaner combustion which always helps MOT.
The pic above was after about 250 miles. I've done about 50k miles since I bought the car. So that gives me an impression of how much oil has been in my combustion cycle over that amount of time.
I would say that is about 10ml. 50k/250= 200 x 10 = 2000ml. It's very minor but it's still 2 liters of oil dirtying my intake tract and piston crowns.
No difference of opinion there AT ALL Patrick.
Nevertheless, the residu after almost 400 kms is realy not a lot.
Will be cleaning the pcv valve in a moment (and checking the shock gaiters) but not adding complications with the catch tank. As the valve is one way anyway, would prefer to fit a filter and plug the inlet ;)
Quote from: Petrus on May 18, 2019, 10:27
No difference of opinion there AT ALL Patrick.
Nevertheless, the residu after almost 400 kms is realy not a lot.
Will be cleaning the pcv valve in a moment (and checking the shock gaiters) but not adding complications with the catch tank. As the valve is one way anyway, would prefer to fit a filter and plug the inlet ;)
Think of the children!! The CHILDREN!
Following on from not wanting to complicate things... As usual the caveat to any mod other than the exhaust manifold mod is.... Stock is best. :)
As we intend to do my valve clearances at Ding Day (spoiler alert!), one of the prerequisites was for me to measure the clearances beforehand to save time.
So I did that and I'm very pleased to say all but two are within tolerance. But all are on the high end of tolerance (particularly exhaust side). So to make it all quieter we're going for it at Ding Day.
Results:
1I = 0.216,0.210
1E= 0.330,0.305
2I = 0.229, 0.200
2E = 0.356,0.330
3I = 0.216,0.216
3E = 0.330, 0.356
4I = 0.203, 0.229
4E = 0.330, 0.330
Tolerances are:
Intake: 0.15mm - 0.25mm
Exhaust: 0.25mm - 0.35mm
Added bonus is that the head looked very clean indeed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190524/116c552fb58d9161461c10028a395ab6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190524/b99ea3a3d4919d9140e86b92cc806278.jpg)
Why does your fuel rail look a bit pink?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: jvanzyl on May 24, 2019, 15:39
Why does your fuel rail look a bit pink?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Partially the lighting but all of the rails I've seen have some pinkish hue to them, if not green/goldish
Ah right... Think mine is a goldy green..
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: shnazzle on May 24, 2019, 15:51
Quote from: jvanzyl on May 24, 2019, 15:39
Why does your fuel rail look a bit pink?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Partially the lighting but all of the rails I've seen have some pinkish hue to them, if not green/goldish
Mine is black, black as the blackest night in a very dark place.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With Carolyn's support! And, we decided to do it then as it's a great learning opportunity for others
Quote from: shnazzle on May 24, 2019, 16:11
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With Carolyn's support! And, we decided to do it then as it's a great learning opportunity for others
It is that! I've got a part can of RTV lying around, remind me to bring it if you want a couple of squirts on the day.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 16:27
Quote from: shnazzle on May 24, 2019, 16:11
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With Carolyn's support! And, we decided to do it then as it's a great learning opportunity for others
It is that! I've got a part can of RTV lying around, remind me to bring it if you want a couple of squirts on the day.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not going to say no :) Cheers!
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why 'bravery'?? What's the RTV for?
Quote from: Carolyn on May 24, 2019, 17:18
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why 'bravery'?? What's the RTV for?
The RTV/FIPG is also in the manual, the little globs where the timing chain cover meets the block.
I purposely didn't remove the existing FIPG.
At Ding Day I'll remove and replace
Quote from: Carolyn on May 24, 2019, 17:18
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why 'bravery'?? What's the RTV for?
The two little squirts where the timing chain cover meets the block, as per the instructions?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: shnazzle on May 24, 2019, 16:11With Carolyn's support! And, we decided to do it then as it's a great learning opportunity for others
I would be there with eyes on stalks if I lived on the chalk Island :D
Let's crowdfund petrus to come attend?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 17:34
Quote from: Carolyn on May 24, 2019, 17:18
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why 'bravery'?? What's the RTV for?
The two little squirts where the timing chain cover meets the block, as per the instructions?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Really only needed if the timing cover has been off......
Quote from: Carolyn on May 24, 2019, 17:47
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 17:34
Quote from: Carolyn on May 24, 2019, 17:18
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 24, 2019, 15:57
You're going to take the cams out in the carpark on Saturday? Admire your bravery there..[emoji851]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why 'bravery'?? What's the RTV for?
The two little squirts where the timing chain cover meets the block, as per the instructions?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Really only needed if the timing cover has been off......
Not-so-mechanic: don't question manual. Do as told. Spend ages doing work.
Mechanic: use knowledge to save time.
One step further towards us being mechanics :) hahaha. In the faaaaar future
Worth changing the gasket too if you haven't done so before.
Quote from: Bossworld on May 24, 2019, 21:47
Worth changing the gasket too if you haven't done so before.
Already done
New rear tyres fitted, AD08R as usual.
Lost locking wheel nut key. Luckily mobile tyre fitter dude had a very handy brass tool that had them off in seconds.
New pipes fitted for catch can to PCV. Much better.
Quote from: shnazzle on May 30, 2019, 23:31
New rear tyres fitted, AD08R as usual.
Lost locking wheel nut key. Luckily mobile tyre fitter dude had a very handy brass tool that had them off in seconds.
New pipes fitted for catch can to PCV. Much better.
Proves just how useless locking wheel nuts are these days!
Quote from: tricky1138 on May 31, 2019, 08:51
Quote from: shnazzle on May 30, 2019, 23:31
New rear tyres fitted, AD08R as usual.
Lost locking wheel nut key. Luckily mobile tyre fitter dude had a very handy brass tool that had them off in seconds.
New pipes fitted for catch can to PCV. Much better.
Proves just how useless locking wheel nuts are these days!
Utterly. Seriously, it took 3 whacks of his hammer with this tool and they screwed right off undamaged.
Quote from: shnazzle on May 30, 2019, 23:31
New rear tyres fitted, AD08R as usual.
Getting some heat into them once scrubbed will make you SMÍLE :D
Quote from: Petrus on May 31, 2019, 09:44
Quote from: shnazzle on May 30, 2019, 23:31
New rear tyres fitted, AD08R as usual.
Getting some heat into them once scrubbed will make you SMÍLE :D
Absolutely. Too bad it's absolutely pouring
Quote from: shnazzle on May 31, 2019, 10:50Absolutely. Too bad it's absolutely pouring
My fault, forgot about that ;)
Ding Day was an absolute hit for me.
Some new bits put on and to put on:
- fresh keyhole covers to replace my worn ones
- StuC kick panels
- front and rear motor mounts with extra rigidity thanks to Carolyn and a tube of Tiger Seal, to stop my engine sitting 2cm lower than usual and swaying back and forth.
- aaanndd... My valve clearances adjusted at DD2019 making my engine quiet as a mouse and drives sweet as a nut. So pleased.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/6e7ff02fd991a02e8e37557bdd4da985.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/e0bc6ac46da9fe67e5c433f2c37b7fa7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/6d4dfb6c63a52eab80a9c0bd1e4e736b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/2fc68181db4d4cff15b50fe3677af1ea.jpg)
And that's what a Ding Day should feel like.
I am impressed that you got the valves sorted. Was a speedy turnaround too.
It felt like I saw you undoing the rocker cover, then in next to no time you were putting back a can and then you were tidying up tools!!
Quote from: StuC on June 2, 2019, 22:28
And that's what a Ding Day should feel like.
I am impressed that you got the valves sorted. Was a speedy turnaround too.
It felt like I saw you undoing the rocker cover, then in next to no time you were putting back a can and then you were tidying up tools!!
To be fair, I had spent about 1.5hrs on my drive measuring the clearances first, to save time at DD.
But yes it was quite quick indeed. 80% of the time is spent measuring!
Catch can back out as well...
Not related to this car but got some very sad news today.
My first MR2, dubbed Snuggles by Vicky, has reached the end of his life :( Its still exactly how it left my drive back in 2014. So sad to see it in a breakers yard.
It did well. I sold it with 113k miles and it trucked on. Just shows how much enjoyment these cars can bring and for how long.
RIP Snuggles. Thank you for bringing me to the MR2 world.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/166951ca05765a9721e2a26d48dcf44e.jpg)
MOT pass this year. No advisories. 93k miles.
Original brakes, handbrake cables, suspension arms, steering UJ.... Not bad.
Quote from: shnazzle on June 6, 2019, 18:00
MOT pass this year. No advisories. 93k miles.
Original brakes, handbrake cables, suspension arms, steering UK.... Not bad.
Excellent!
De-modification has started.
Emanage blue is out.
Next is the Hurricane intake once a missing part arrives. It's great for noise, throttle response and horsepower chasing but at the cost of low and mid torque.
Once stock box is back in, I may reconsider the emanage as I don't have the airflow aspect to worry about.
Then comes a compression check to see how far off rebuild time I am.
Depending on that, the 200 cell replaced with a cats2u special. I'd rather not remove it as its actually one of the things that offers genuine gains.
Then the big one, coilovers are going the distance.
Haven't decided yet on what's next but so far options are
1) stock struts, new top mounts, H&R springs and Koni strut inserts.
2) BC coilovers rebuilt with better valves
Now, wheels... Problem.
I think the only feasible option I have is to get spacers on the rear to even up the width so that the front isn't wider than the rear.
After a that is sorted. Alignment.
Stock intake back in
Stock rear cross brace back in
And nice little cover from Bernie in :)
Most mods I've done in one go for a while!
IMG_20190813_120740_resize_78.jpg
First drive out with stock intake back in.
Quiet. So quiet. As it turns out even on closed throttle the car is so much louder with a cone. Cruising is so much more pleasant. Yes the roar is gone, and it is sorely missed, but overall as a daily commuter this is much nicer.
Fueling. Spot on.
Must have some inconsistencies in my injectors as my bank 1, after a 20 min drive, has a LTFT of 0. That's impressive.
Bank 2 on the other hand goes between 0.8 and 4.7. WELL within tolerance but still odd that only one bank is trimming.
Important to note here is that the only change is the intake, from Hurricane cone with EliseParts MAF adapter to stock.
Total fuel trims on Hurricane (same MAF, not cleaned in between) was 25% from LTFT and up to 8-9% from STFT. So a total of almost 35% fueling was being added. That's how much difference the MAF readings make, for those who doubted.
When I ran the eManage, I got much closer to "proper" readings, as I was adjusting the MAF signal. But it was guesswork and without a dyno or comparison to the stock MAF, I was never going to get it right. Hence it went the distance.
I'm leaving it stock, but getting a panel filter and perhaps copy the TRD trumpet. The stock box is king.
Lot to be said for the R&D toyota put in :) will you refit the emanage now stock intake is back on to try and tweak it some more ?
Quote from: thetyrant on August 14, 2019, 09:00Lot to be said for the R&D toyota put in :) will you refit the emanage now stock intake is back on to try and tweak it some more ?
Nope. What would I have to tweak?
If my exhaust mods are allowing the engine to pull more air through (scavenging etc) then the MAF will read the increased airflow and adjust accordingly based on the fuel tables, instead of o2 sensor correction.
The only benefit of the emanage would be to shift the torque curve and advance timing to increase throttle response. But that comes at a cost. Very very little gain for a drop in reliability.
Until you go standalone to really re-focus the car towards power output instead of efficiency as well as power, then you're wasting time :)
Indeed and thats my thinking also :) but i know you like to tinker so wondered if you you were going to play around with it again, agree its pointless but doesnt stop people having a go :D
I would be supervised if even a good standalone ecu would unleash any noticable gains without further internal mods to the engine like cams etc, even then where you gain in one area you loose in another so not much point.
Quote from: thetyrant on August 14, 2019, 10:23Indeed and thats my thinking also :) but i know you like to tinker so wondered if you you were going to play around with it again, agree its pointless but doesnt stop people having a go :D
I would be supervised if even a good standalone ecu would unleash any noticable gains without further internal mods to the engine like cams etc, even then where you gain in one area you loose in another so not much point.
It's always a compromise. I'm sure a standalone could free up some power at the cost of longevity and reliability. But cost/benefit on this is stupid.
Standalone doesn't become viable, in my opinion, until you've done full exhaust, intake and valvetrain. Then basically you've reconfigured the car, so it needs to be mapped from scratch.
I do like to tinker :) And that tinkering has, hopefully, informed the forum.
The logic now is that I know that the MAF positioning and reading is key. So I have to design a new intake that is performant but doesn't change the MAF calibration... I can't help but think I'd end up designing the OEM intake :) :) :) Or more likely a less effective version of it. So, best leave that one and bow down to Toyota for that one.
They had to win somehwere as they made a total boob of themselves with that manifold, the head and the pistons. :)
Out with the old, in with the new.
Matt's TTE brace making way for Carolyn's much much stiffer brace.
The TTE will be cleaned up, treated and repainted and find a new home under Helen's car.
Also some might be glad to hear the disgusting black center console will now be replaced by a nice stock specimen.
Hell,might even wash and hoover the car before Ding Day.
Maybe
IMG_20200214_153637.jpg
It comes to something when the underside of your car is cleaner than the inside!
This is what an 18 quid sump plug looks like hahaha.
Isolation having a negative effect on sanity.
IMG_20200331_143010_resize_95.jpg
Quote from: shnazzle on March 31, 2020, 14:33This is what an 18 quid sump plug looks like hahaha.
Isolation having a negative effect on sanity.
IMG_20200331_143010_resize_95.jpg
Or, you can pop as mall magnet on top of the standard plug.... Money eating holes in your brain eh??
Quote from: Carolyn on March 31, 2020, 14:45Quote from: shnazzle on March 31, 2020, 14:33This is what an 18 quid sump plug looks like hahaha.
Isolation having a negative effect on sanity.
IMG_20200331_143010_resize_95.jpg
Or, you can pop as mall magnet on top of the standard plug.... Money eating holes in your brain eh??
Looks "attractive".
Quote from: Carolyn on March 31, 2020, 14:45Quote from: shnazzle on March 31, 2020, 14:33This is what an 18 quid sump plug looks like hahaha.
Isolation having a negative effect on sanity.
IMG_20200331_143010_resize_95.jpg
Or, you can pop as mall magnet on top of the standard plug.... Money eating holes in your brain eh??
It was so pretty. And it came up first on my search. And it's Mishimoto. Because race car innit
Quote from: shnazzle on March 31, 2020, 14:33This is what an 18 quid sump plug looks like hahaha.
Isolation having a negative effect on sanity.
IMG_20200331_143010_resize_95.jpg
very nice! I want :)
What spec is it? M12 x 1.25 or M12 x 1.5?
Quote from: househead on March 31, 2020, 16:42Quote from: shnazzle on March 31, 2020, 14:33This is what an 18 quid sump plug looks like hahaha.
Isolation having a negative effect on sanity.
IMG_20200331_143010_resize_95.jpg
very nice! I want :)
What spec is it? M12 x 1.25 or M12 x 1.5?
M12 1.25. Can't confirm it fits haha
Quote from: househead on March 31, 2020, 16:42Quote from: shnazzle on March 31, 2020, 14:33This is what an 18 quid sump plug looks like hahaha.
Isolation having a negative effect on sanity.
IMG_20200331_143010_resize_95.jpg
very nice! I want :)
What spec is it? M12 x 1.25 or M12 x 1.5?
Prices starting from £3.50 on ebay......
Forgot to update but during lockdown it's had;
10/04/2020 - service with new sparks, Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w40 oil, oil filter, Redline Mt90 gearbox oil, mishimoto sump plug.
IMG_20200401_130856_resize_45.jpg
07/05/2020 wrapped and refitted my Zero Manifold after a small repair.
09/08/2020 changed my gearbox mount for one stuffed with TigerSeal to firm up the engine in its intended position and stop it sagging.
Also replaced my centre console with a stock one. So no more icky gloss black. And re-installed my fine wood Perry Byrnes award gearknob.
Runs like a dream. Good bit louder now with the manifold wrapped,so that makes quite a difference.
Fingers crossed a better roof coming next weekend. As mine has decided to just totally destroy itself while stood still on the drive.
Two little tears turned into two big holes. The rip at the seam went all the way through and a rip starting to form at the bottom.
IMG_20200601_203431_resize_10.jpg
I added a new battery as well just before lockdown. Much much better cranking now. Went for the Yuasa. Bought another Halfords as well for Helen's while there.
IMG-20200108-WA0000_resize_43.jpg
Very pleased with how the car is running at the minute with the standard intake with K&N filter, markiii pipe, Zero manifold and 200cell sports cat.
Only thing that's a bit funny is consistent fuel trims DOWN, which is surprising.
Particularly in the cruise low/load areas it's reducing around 7%. O2 sensors confirm slightly rich condition. So exhaust leak is not a thing as that would result in a lean reading.
Really splitting hairs here as it pulls like a train but does make you wonder what makes it run lean when the exhaust is significantly more "Open" than stock. This makes me wonder whether the TTE just causes a bit of a bottleneck
All interesting stuff
Ah, forgot to update captains log correctly.
The car got a "new" roof last week (29/06/2020) which used to belong to Graham Pashby. It's still a 15+/- year old roof but it's in very good nick. He's taken good care of it. Other than the little rips that appear on the bottom of the sides it's flawless.
Not a moment too soon as water was found in the bins.
Also a brand new rain pocket was installed on the nearside because it was more ripped than Channing Tatum.
As you have just changed your roof you may know the answer to this, is it easy to change the door seals above the windows?
Mine are a little the worse for wear so am considering trying to find some new ones.
Quote from: Topdownman on July 6, 2020, 10:45As you have just changed your roof you may know the answer to this, is it easy to change the door seals above the windows?
Mine are a little the worse for wear so am considering trying to find some new ones.
Sorry no. We just swapped the entire roof including all seals and everything. The whole thing literally goes across as one unit.
I wondered if thats what you would do!
Quote from: Topdownman on July 6, 2020, 11:54I wondered if thats what you would do!
It's surprisingly easy. Don't get me wrong, it's unbelievable how Dick knows every nut/bolt and how each flap of fabric goes. But in essence it's about 20 bolts and the whole thing is off and on
Quote from: shnazzle on July 5, 2020, 16:46Very pleased with how the car is running at the minute with the standard intake with K&N filter, markiii pipe, Zero manifold and 200cell sports cat.
Only thing that's a bit funny is consistent fuel trims DOWN, which is surprising.
Particularly in the cruise low/load areas it's reducing around 7%. O2 sensors confirm slightly rich condition. So exhaust leak is not a thing as that would result in a lean reading.
Really splitting hairs here as it pulls like a train but does make you wonder what makes it run lean when the exhaust is significantly more "Open" than stock. This makes me wonder whether the TTE just causes a bit of a bottleneck
All interesting stuff
Stab in the dark. But did you get to put some BP Ultimate in?
Just wondering if may contribute to change in trims.
Quote from: Ardent on July 6, 2020, 17:36Quote from: shnazzle on July 5, 2020, 16:46Very pleased with how the car is running at the minute with the standard intake with K&N filter, markiii pipe, Zero manifold and 200cell sports cat.
Only thing that's a bit funny is consistent fuel trims DOWN, which is surprising.
Particularly in the cruise low/load areas it's reducing around 7%. O2 sensors confirm slightly rich condition. So exhaust leak is not a thing as that would result in a lean reading.
Really splitting hairs here as it pulls like a train but does make you wonder what makes it run lean when the exhaust is significantly more "Open" than stock. This makes me wonder whether the TTE just causes a bit of a bottleneck
All interesting stuff
Stab in the dark. But did you get to put some BP Ultimate in?
Just wondering if may contribute to change in trims.
I did indeed.
That would be interesting.
If simply running 100% fuel vs 95% has made the difference.
I feel the same. Just a happier package.
Quote from: Ardent on July 6, 2020, 19:16That would be interesting.
If simply running 100% fuel vs 95% has made the difference.
I feel the same. Just a happier package.
I'll reset the trims and see what it does. If the theory is it's the fuel, the trims should drop to near 0 if I reset as I should have no residual Vpower in by now.
Quote from: shnazzle on July 6, 2020, 13:19Quote from: Topdownman on July 6, 2020, 11:54I wondered if thats what you would do!
It's surprisingly easy. Don't get me wrong, it's unbelievable how Dick knows every nut/bolt and how each flap of fabric goes. But in essence it's about 20 bolts and the whole thing is off and on
Takes 2 men and a dog just 3½ mins here ;D 8)
But seriously...has probably become just like riding a bike to him.
Quote from: ManInDandism on July 6, 2020, 22:20Quote from: shnazzle on July 6, 2020, 13:19Quote from: Topdownman on July 6, 2020, 11:54I wondered if thats what you would do!
It's surprisingly easy. Don't get me wrong, it's unbelievable how Dick knows every nut/bolt and how each flap of fabric goes. But in essence it's about 20 bolts and the whole thing is off and on
Takes 2 men and a dog just 3½ mins here ;D 8)
But seriously...has probably become just like riding a bike to him.
Yup that's about how much time it takes to be honest. We left the seats in but the roof was off within no more than 10 mins, including instructing me from the other side and looking for a screwdriver.
Very very simple construction. But, only if you know I guess
Quote from: shnazzle on July 6, 2020, 19:21Quote from: Ardent on July 6, 2020, 19:16That would be interesting.
If simply running 100% fuel vs 95% has made the difference.
I feel the same. Just a happier package.
I'll reset the trims and see what it does. If the theory is it's the fuel, the trims should drop to near 0 if I reset as I should have no residual Vpower in by now.
@Ardent ecu reset. Fuel trims immediately negative. So nothing to do with fuel.
Mind, they're below 10% so not really panicking
Hi,
Any chance of a couple of pics of the subwoofer sitting under the steering column please so i can get an idea before trying to install one myself?
Thanks
R.
Quote from: RussB on July 16, 2020, 13:45Hi,
Any chance of a couple of pics of the subwoofer sitting under the steering column please so i can get an idea before trying to install one myself?
Thanks
R.
HI Russ
Sorry for the delay. I meant to go out and take pics and forgot :(
Unfortunately the right mount is only visible if I take the plastics under the wheel out, and it was raining so no dice.
So this is the left mount.
The sub I used (InPhase USW10) has two hard plastic mounting tabs. The right one is bolted straight to a bolt on the car used to hold on a relay or some wiring, forgot which. But it's quite obvious. It's kind of around where the OBD2 port is.
The left side has a home made bracket as seen on the pic.
The slack is taken up by a sponge. I sh1t you not.
It's been there for approximately 3-4 years so and dampens vibrations well, and keeps the sub well in its place.
IMG_20200720_171341_resize_80.jpg
New windshield sprayers added to replace crappy bi-piddle stock ones.
Fit like a glove. Cheap as chips.
Video shows the difference. New one on the left.
https://youtu.be/MMAjrqYYq0k
Link to purchase
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352
Took a hell of a long time for chinapost to get them here but worth it
Quote from: shnazzle on July 20, 2020, 17:25New windshield sprayers added to replace crappy bi-piddle stock ones.
Fit like a glove. Cheap as chips.
Video shows the difference. New one on the left.
https://youtu.be/MMAjrqYYq0k
Link to purchase
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352
Took a hell of a long time for chinapost to get them here but worth it
What are they like with the roof down? :)
I'll get me some.
Quote from: shnazzle on July 20, 2020, 17:25New windshield sprayers added to replace crappy bi-piddle stock ones.
Fit like a glove. Cheap as chips.
Video shows the difference. New one on the left.
https://youtu.be/MMAjrqYYq0k
Link to purchase
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352
Took a hell of a long time for chinapost to get them here but worth it
This is the end of a long running saga! How did you find that this model works or do you now have a shed full of random washer jets?
Quote from: Topdownman on July 20, 2020, 20:53This is the end of a long running saga! How did you find that this model works or do you now have a shed full of random washer jets?
Haha no I can't take credit for this one.
Doug
@Dougster7 messaged me a few weeks ago and shared the knowledge. I was sceptical, because I had tried a few, but I was wrong to doubt Doug :)
Quote from: Bossworld on July 20, 2020, 20:45What are they like with the roof down? :)
I'll get me some.
Good question. They're not a fine mist, so I reckon they'll be quite functional at speed
Quote from: shnazzle on July 20, 2020, 17:25New windshield sprayers added to replace crappy bi-piddle stock ones.
Fit like a glove. Cheap as chips.
Video shows the difference. New one on the left.
https://youtu.be/MMAjrqYYq0k
Link to purchase
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352
Took a hell of a long time for chinapost to get them here but worth it
Very good find! - I'll be ordering some of these and another set for my wife's Subaru Justy that has the same fitting/size washers but an even worse single jet.
Thank you.
Momentous day... I hoovered the inside of the car!
Didn't get to wipe it down. That's for another month.
And cleaning the outside, maybe after the coming winter.
I did collect a few more logs from July and ran my TrimAnalysis on it.
Across both banks, it's pulling fuel. A consistent 4-6% across all ranges.
Theoretically with the Zero manifold and 200cell,it should be adding fuel! I wonder why its consistently reading rich and pulling fuel.
Everything else is stock. Well, bored throttle body, but that can't so much on a stock intake anyway.
Ah the mysteries.
IMG_20200805_215448_resize_80.jpg
I've been having sporadic misfires for a while now, so I think I'm going to pull my injectors and replace them with another set I have. Good chance I've got a leaking injector or two.
Low mpg
Constant neg fuel trims
Misfires
It's probably pretty obvious.
The next option is that one of more of my coilpacks are duff.
I have swapped a suspected one in the past, and it did nothing. I made sure to swap it from another bank so that I would see the trims swap to the other bank. No such luck
Just keep swopping bits with Helens car until she gets the problem?
Quote from: shnazzle on August 8, 2020, 09:15I've been having sporadic misfires for a while now, so I think I'm going to pull my injectors and replace them with another set I have. Good chance I've got a leaking injector or two.
Low mpg
Constant neg fuel trims
Misfires
It's probably pretty obvious.
The next option is that one of more of my coilpacks are duff.
I have swapped a suspected one in the past, and it did nothing. I made sure to swap it from another bank so that I would see the trims swap to the other bank. No such luck
Fairly sure I've got some reclaimed coilpacks on the shelf, give me a shout if you want to try any but obviously I can't guarantee they were any good when I pulled them at the scrappers.😆
Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 8, 2020, 09:26Quote from: shnazzle on August 8, 2020, 09:15I've been having sporadic misfires for a while now, so I think I'm going to pull my injectors and replace them with another set I have. Good chance I've got a leaking injector or two.
Low mpg
Constant neg fuel trims
Misfires
It's probably pretty obvious.
The next option is that one of more of my coilpacks are duff.
I have swapped a suspected one in the past, and it did nothing. I made sure to swap it from another bank so that I would see the trims swap to the other bank. No such luck
Fairly sure I've got some reclaimed coilpacks on the shelf, give me a shout if you want to try any but obviously I can't guarantee they were any good when I pulled them at the scrappers.😆
That'd be good if you could if it doesn't solve it I'll just send you mine back
I can fix it. Stop looking at fuel trims....
Quote from: shnazzle on August 8, 2020, 09:35Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 8, 2020, 09:26Quote from: shnazzle on August 8, 2020, 09:15I've been having sporadic misfires for a while now, so I think I'm going to pull my injectors and replace them with another set I have. Good chance I've got a leaking injector or two.
Low mpg
Constant neg fuel trims
Misfires
It's probably pretty obvious.
The next option is that one of more of my coilpacks are duff.
I have swapped a suspected one in the past, and it did nothing. I made sure to swap it from another bank so that I would see the trims swap to the other bank. No such luck
Fairly sure I've got some reclaimed coilpacks on the shelf, give me a shout if you want to try any but obviously I can't guarantee they were any good when I pulled them at the scrappers.😆
That'd be good if you could if it doesn't solve it I'll just send you mine back
Glad to, only problem being it won't be until next Friday now that I can get to the post office. I start 7-5 on Monday and it's not open Saturdays at the moment. 🙁
Quote from: Carolyn on August 8, 2020, 09:35I can fix it. Stop looking at fuel trims....
But surely constant misfires is something I should be looking at fixing :)
To be fair, this is the first time I've collected fuel trim data in a long time. I no longer have Torque running as a 2nd dash permanently. It is refreshing actually because I don't drive around paranoid all the time.
I only thought to check because I felt the misfires
Quote from: shnazzle on August 8, 2020, 10:35Quote from: Carolyn on August 8, 2020, 09:35I can fix it. Stop looking at fuel trims....
But surely constant misfires is something I should be looking at fixing :)
To be fair, this is the first time I've collected fuel trim data in a long time. I no longer have Torque running as a 2nd dash permanently. It is refreshing actually because I don't drive around paranoid all the time.
I only thought to check because I felt the misfires
Fair enough.
Captains log.
Fresh front discs and yellow stuff pads.
Have to say, the EBC pads do fit very nicely and they are meaty.
Second time fitting them and I forgot how much nicer they are.
Pagid discs are also a fair bit nicer than the mtec ones Ive been using for a good while. Just seem better built.
Plenty of meat left on my old pads but I keep just glazing the crap out of them.
One thing; bottom slider isn't great. So, will need to get some lube in there ASAP.
Quote from: shnazzle on August 19, 2020, 17:33Captains log.
Fresh front discs and yellow stuff pads.
Have to say, the EBC pads do fit very nicely and they are meaty.
Second time fitting them and I forgot how much nicer they are.
Pagid discs are also a fair bit nicer than the mtec ones Ive been using for a good while. Just seem better built.
Plenty of meat left on my old pads but I keep just glazing the crap out of them.
One thing; bottom slider isn't great. So, will need to get some lube in there ASAP.
Looooooooobbbbbbbbb.......🤓
..... Just.. No words.
Quote from: shnazzle on August 19, 2020, 17:33Captains log.
Fresh front discs and yellow stuff pads.
Have to say, the EBC pads do fit very nicely and they are meaty.
Second time fitting them and I forgot how much nicer they are.
Pagid discs are also a fair bit nicer than the mtec ones Ive been using for a good while. Just seem better built.
Plenty of meat left on my old pads but I keep just glazing the crap out of them.
One thing; bottom slider isn't great. So, will need to get some lube in there ASAP.
I fitted Pagid discs to my daily and have found the anti corrosion coating to be efficient.
And the reason for the swap.
IMG_20200819_200242_313.jpg
Burnt to a crisp. And not evenly front/back which further highlights my need to lube up that slider
The yellowstuff pads strike a nice contrast with those blue calipers too.
Have the pagid discs + yellowstuff on mine and I'm very happy so far.
I'm replacing Mtec too. Worst discs for rust I've ever owned. A contributor on this forum works in the brakes field & has told me that Mtec don't make discs. They buy the cheapest they can & make make them look sexy, or just box them.
Took the car down south last weekend and those brakes....Just crazy. Now for the rears to be done. At the same time I will take the front calipers apart again just so I can lube up the sliders. On the rear there's going to have to be a bit of handbrake adjustment. I'm really scraping the barrel now.
In other news I saw a post about some Alpine speakers for 35 GBP. I put an order in. Unfortunately I was called a few days later to be told they were out of stock and if I wanted these Pioneer speakers instead. I went for it.
IMG_20200828_152957_resize_87.jpg
I got these speaker adapters online a good while ago. The new speakers screwed straight into the adapters and the adapters were a perfect fit onto the door.
IMG_20200828_153301_resize_31.jpg
Next to stock.
IMG_20200828_155816_resize_85.jpg
Install was easy. These come with in-line high-pass filters just like the one on the stock tweeters.
The new tweeters I fitted onto the stock frames. Stock ones are screwed onto a metal plate. I unscrewed them and stuck the new tweeters on using the provided double-sided sticky pads. As for wiring, I've gone for a simple splice into the stock speaker wires. Left all the connectors etc in place.
First door took a bit of figuring out to see how I was going to do it. Second door took 10 minutes.
I need to tinker a bit with the equaliser but first impressions are that they are definitely more clear. The tweeters seem to have a very high set filter so really only cover the upper ends of the "ttssss" of a high-hat for example.
Bass I dare say is actually a bit less than stock I think. I could be wrong. But mixed with my usw-10 woofer they offer a good boost in clarity. Especially at higher volumes.
All the way up to 11...
They'll improve as they break in I'd have thought?
I tried unscrewing the stock tweeters from the brackets but they also appeared to be epoxied on (or similar) :D
Only thing I'd check with using the adaptors, if you look at the rear of the stock speakers, the shroud looks like it'd stop water ingress. I taped a cut open sandwich bag to the top rear of the new speakers to protect them in a similar fashion.
They're a pretty straight-forward swap, but I figured I'd get some improvement with mine when I swapped the speakers over and put some Pioneer components so I went for the ones with the active filter... but I think they were closer to £100 for the pair, but a very straight swap and a MASSIVE improvement over stock - tweeters and mid-range are amazing and bass response is incredible (lower than most subs) - albeit not with as much volume....
Been a while since any update, which makes sense as I do nothing with the car anymore haha!
All my money is going on fly fishing. It was supposed to be a somewhat cheaper hobby...let me tell you, it's not.
BUT... it's MOT time so figured I'd best sort the broken bulbs in the dash, the dead rear pads and iffy handbrake.
Bought some EBC yellow stuff for the rear to match my fronts. For road use, I do rather enjoy the EBC yellows. Although I would say, progressive they are not. Oh well. Then I can also put my rear spacers on which I've had sat for about 6 months and get my rear wheels out to the correct width compared to the fronts. Also fit the dogbone spacers for the subframe.
I guess at some point I also need to install the aerial blanking plate I got off
@Snelbaard but that'll have to wait for summer.
Also still have set of 45GBP A-arms to replace mine, but quite frankly I've been put off since people have reported issues with these.
Now to dig through the garage to see if I can find any old dash bulbs. Should have some. If not, I'll have to stick the horrible LED ones in for now. Then I need to tackle the broken light behind the temperature knob on the HVAC.
Still the occasional misfire despite changing all coil packs, sparks, returning to stock intake. Last one on the list is to send off some spare injectors for cleaning and replace them. See if that does the trick. Runs fine otherwise.
Decided to be naughty yesterday at an empty crossing and launch the car. It did not such thing. revved, dumped and just burnt the sh1t out of the clutch. As it turns out the AD08Rs have more grip than my clutch does hahaha. Oh well. Not doing that again then.
ha ha.... on a standard 1ZZ, if it's dry and not to cold, you'll struggle to spin up the AD08RS's, although a slightly damp road and you can get some gentle progressive drift on the throttle....
Personally I'm going to save mine for trackdays and the Conti Sport Contact 2's will go on next March - they're a fair bit older, so really need to get "used up".... might even take those to the next limits day, it'll put me amongst the Saxo's on the highspeed bend rankings, instead of just behind the Elises.... but at least then they'll be done >:D
Dash bulb arent a MOT fail!
Get everything else fixed first! ;)
Quote from: shnazzle on November 23, 2020, 10:30Decided to be naughty yesterday at an empty crossing and launch the car. It did not such thing. revved, dumped and just burnt the sh1t out of the clutch. As it turns out the AD08Rs have more grip than my clutch does hahaha. Oh well. Not doing that again then.
Exactly how old are you? 🙄😂
I thought you reserved such behaviour for Helens car!
Quote from: 1979scotte on November 23, 2020, 12:08Quote from: shnazzle on November 23, 2020, 10:30Decided to be naughty yesterday at an empty crossing and launch the car. It did not such thing. revved, dumped and just burnt the sh1t out of the clutch. As it turns out the AD08Rs have more grip than my clutch does hahaha. Oh well. Not doing that again then.
Exactly how old are you? 🙄😂
Never too old! I behaved like a model driver before that so.. I'm allowed :)
Quote from: Topdownman on November 23, 2020, 12:19I thought you reserved such behaviour for Helens car!
Haha not anymore now that hers is no longer faster than mine :)
I wouldn't sweat it on the suspension arms, change them just before (or if you're not feeling as brave, after) MOT, hopefully get at least a year's use and if they do turn to sh1te, you'll have done all the hard work in freeing the bolts already so less work next time.
If they've got the two year warranty you might want to check the condition of them even in the bags, if you've got chance to return them instead?
You could keep the old ones and refresh them if the replacements dont last long?
Seems a shame not to use them. I have the scion ones on mine but not really had much use since they went on about a year ago!
Good shout.
I was quoted 80 for my friendly mobile mechanic to fit them here on the drive. I'll take up his offer before Christmas.
On another note...
Helen's car doesn't have a Reader's Ride so I'll just put this here:
Captain's Log. Full service on Helen's sable in prep for MOT this Thursday. Oil, filter, sparks,new battery, and checked filter.
Just needs to fit all the new pads. Another day
All cars passed MOT.
As usual, all my tyres need replacing. That's just the case the week after you buy a set of AD08Rs.
Flew through emissions :)
Helen's did as well...
The Peugeot banger didn't get off as well, needing a new a-arm and the exhaust welded up. But at 180gbp including the MOT, not worth the hassle of doing it myself (seeing as it took them about 4hrs to get the front arm sorted).
Quote from: shnazzle on November 27, 2020, 16:46All cars passed MOT.
As usual, all my tyres need replacing. That's just the case the week after you buy a set of AD08Rs.
Flew through emissions :)
Helen's did as well...
The Peugeot banger didn't get off as well, needing a new a-arm and the exhaust welded up. But at 180gbp including the MOT, not worth the hassle of doing it myself (seeing as it took them about 4hrs to get the front arm sorted).
nice one on the 2's... and serves you right for buying a Pug ;) ... the last Pug that had me interested after my 205 was a Rallye106, but then I got distracted by an E30....
Interesting thing today; my cheap ebay windscreen washer sprayers have failed.
The inside "cartridge" actually popped out on both sides!
So, anybody that bought these, I would recommend you remove them and put a dot of good plastic superglue on the cartridges as per the pic.
to remove them I suspect you can put a pin through the hole an lever them out as they came undone simply with water pressure.
Other than that...still a great find by
@Dougster7 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352)IMG_20201130_090347_resize_54.jpg
Ah please no... this was supposed to be a nice quick easy mod with no come back!!
Ok so you're saying someone pry out the innards and the put them back in with glue? I'm now doing 120 miles a day so could really do with them not failing especially with the spray about at the moment... might take my old ones with me as spares.
Quote from: jvanzyl on December 2, 2020, 22:46Ah please no... this was supposed to be a nice quick easy mod with no come back!!
Ok so you're saying someone pry out the innards and the put them back in with glue? I'm now doing 120 miles a day so could really do with them not failing especially with the spray about at the moment... might take my old ones with me as spares.
I fixed them on the road. I had a little backing from a sticker. I cut off a small piece and slotted it above the insert. It locked it in place nicely.
Greaseproof paper should work as well, or a piece of folded tape. Or if plastic wrapping from a sandwich box. Plenty options on the road. :)
Quote from: shnazzle on December 3, 2020, 06:47Quote from: jvanzyl on December 2, 2020, 22:46Ah please no... this was supposed to be a nice quick easy mod with no come back!!
Ok so you're saying someone pry out the innards and the put them back in with glue? I'm now doing 120 miles a day so could really do with them not failing especially with the spray about at the moment... might take my old ones with me as spares.
I fixed them on the road. I had a little backing from a sticker. I cut off a small piece and slotted it above the insert. It locked it in place nicely.
Greaseproof paper should work as well, or a piece of folded tape. Or if plastic wrapping from a sandwich box. Plenty options on the road. :)
Awesome I can't wait to pull over on the motorway to try that.. sounds epic. ;p
Quote from: jvanzyl on December 3, 2020, 06:49Quote from: shnazzle on December 3, 2020, 06:47Quote from: jvanzyl on December 2, 2020, 22:46Ah please no... this was supposed to be a nice quick easy mod with no come back!!
Ok so you're saying someone pry out the innards and the put them back in with glue? I'm now doing 120 miles a day so could really do with them not failing especially with the spray about at the moment... might take my old ones with me as spares.
I fixed them on the road. I had a little backing from a sticker. I cut off a small piece and slotted it above the insert. It locked it in place nicely.
Greaseproof paper should work as well, or a piece of folded tape. Or if plastic wrapping from a sandwich box. Plenty options on the road. :)
Awesome I can't wait to pull over on the motorway to try that.. sounds epic. ;p
Ooorrrr... Do it before you leave?
Quote from: jvanzyl on December 2, 2020, 22:46Ah please no... this was supposed to be a nice quick easy mod with no come back!!
Ok so you're saying someone pry out the innards and the put them back in with glue? I'm now doing 120 miles a day so could really do with them not failing especially with the spray about at the moment... might take my old ones with me as spares.
You so need that diesel focus estate.
Heated front screen great in this weather.
Quote from: shnazzle on November 30, 2020, 09:50Interesting thing today; my cheap ebay windscreen washer sprayers have failed.
The inside "cartridge" actually popped out on both sides!
So, anybody that bought these, I would recommend you remove them and put a dot of good plastic superglue on the cartridges as per the pic.
to remove them I suspect you can put a pin through the hole an lever them out as they came undone simply with water pressure.
Other than that...still a great find by @Dougster7
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202657063352)
IMG_20201130_090347_resize_54.jpg
Must remember to do this before it comes out of hibernation.
No doubt I'll forget and you will all have great delight at telling me this on a run out with you lot!
Good times.
Alternator #2 gone.
Left me stranded in Newcastle. Luckily across from an MOT service centre! I borrowed their starter (which hilariously was a massive car battery on a wheeled trolley) and made it back home with the obligatory lit up dashboard.
Ordering a new one this time in the hope that I won't have to do it for a 3rd time
Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 18:33Ordering a new one this time in the hope that I won't have to do it for a 3rd time
The underdrive pulley suddenly seems less expensive no?! ;-)
Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 19:49Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 18:33Ordering a new one this time in the hope that I won't have to do it for a 3rd time
The underdrive pulley suddenly seems less expensive no?! ;-)
Well I did think about it but surely these alternators (also fitted to 2zz with revs a good 1k higher) are fit for purpose even if I am a little naughty with it.
Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 20:45Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 19:49Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 18:33Ordering a new one this time in the hope that I won't have to do it for a 3rd time
The underdrive pulley suddenly seems less expensive no?! ;-)
Well I did think about it but surely these alternators (also fitted to 2zz with revs a good 1k higher) are fit for purpose even if I am a little naughty with it.
And are they as reliable on the 2ZZ as on the 1ZZ.
Now, I fitted it for less weight and less ´mass´, but saw the reduction of revs as a stress relief on it too.
Obviously your 3 alternators could have failed with underdrive too. Depends entirely on whát failed.
Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 20:52Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 20:45Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 19:49Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 18:33Ordering a new one this time in the hope that I won't have to do it for a 3rd time
The underdrive pulley suddenly seems less expensive no?! ;-)
Well I did think about it but surely these alternators (also fitted to 2zz with revs a good 1k higher) are fit for purpose even if I am a little naughty with it.
And are they as reliable on the 2ZZ as on the 1ZZ.
Now, I fitted it for less weight and less ´mass´, but saw the reduction of revs as a stress relief on it too.
Obviously your 3 alternators could have failed with underdrive too. Depends entirely on whát failed.
To be fair the 2nd one (killed only 2 so far) was 2nd hand and had probably done a fair share of miles as well.
But it's certainly not common to break two. They're usually bulletproof
Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 21:02Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 20:52Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 20:45Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 19:49Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 18:33Ordering a new one this time in the hope that I won't have to do it for a 3rd time
The underdrive pulley suddenly seems less expensive no?! ;-)
Well I did think about it but surely these alternators (also fitted to 2zz with revs a good 1k higher) are fit for purpose even if I am a little naughty with it.
And are they as reliable on the 2ZZ as on the 1ZZ.
Now, I fitted it for less weight and less ´mass´, but saw the reduction of revs as a stress relief on it too.
Obviously your 3 alternators could have failed with underdrive too. Depends entirely on whát failed.
To be fair the 2nd one (killed only 2 so far) was 2nd hand and had probably done a fair share of miles as well.
But it's certainly not common to break two. They're usually bulletproof
Is the Corolla GTi (AE92) version suitable? Think I read it's half the price of the MR2 version?
Quote from: SV-3 on December 9, 2020, 22:00Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 21:02Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 20:52Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 20:45Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 19:49Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 18:33Ordering a new one this time in the hope that I won't have to do it for a 3rd time
The underdrive pulley suddenly seems less expensive no?! ;-)
Well I did think about it but surely these alternators (also fitted to 2zz with revs a good 1k higher) are fit for purpose even if I am a little naughty with it.
And are they as reliable on the 2ZZ as on the 1ZZ.
Now, I fitted it for less weight and less ´mass´, but saw the reduction of revs as a stress relief on it too.
Obviously your 3 alternators could have failed with underdrive too. Depends entirely on whát failed.
To be fair the 2nd one (killed only 2 so far) was 2nd hand and had probably done a fair share of miles as well.
But it's certainly not common to break two. They're usually bulletproof
Is the Corolla GTi (AE92) version suitable? Think I read it's half the price of the MR2 version?
I don't know but in my quest to find out I have found that actually the 2zz alternator is different. You guessed it... To cope with prolonged higher rpm.
Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 23:02I don't know but in my quest to find out I have found that actually the 2zz alternator is different. You guessed it... To cope with prolonged higher rpm.
Oopsie.
Back to my question then ;-)
Quote from: Petrus on December 9, 2020, 23:26Quote from: shnazzle on December 9, 2020, 23:02I don't know but in my quest to find out I have found that actually the 2zz alternator is different. You guessed it... To cope with prolonged higher rpm.
Oopsie.
Back to my question then ;-)
Underdrive pulley isn't really an option for me. If anything I needed a heavier alternator to run my powered active subwoofer, higher power radio.
regardless, I received my new alternator today :)
Quote from: shnazzle on December 11, 2020, 13:11Underdrive pulley isn't really an option for me. If anything I needed a heavier alternator to run my powered active subwoofer, higher power radio.
regardless, I received my new alternator today :)
And I... you guessed it... chucked it ALL out :-)
I made a shocking decision today.
I'm getting rid.
... of my AD08Rs!
I'm going to follow in
@Ardent 's footsteps and I've ordered a set of
195/50/15 Rainsport 5
215/45/16 Rainsport 3
I've had to go down a width on the rear, which will be odd for me, and lead to a more square setup but still plenty of stagger.
Looking forward to it.
At the same time I will fit my rear EBC pads and spacers on the rear.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 20:54I made a shocking decision today.
I'm getting rid.
... of my AD08Rs!
I'm going to follow in @Ardent 's footsteps and I've ordered a set of
195/50/15 Rainsport 5
215/45/16 Rainsport 3
I've had to go down a width on the rear, which will be odd for me, and lead to a more square setup but still plenty of stagger.
Looking forward to it.
At the same time I will fit my rear EBC pads and spacers on the rear.
I can understand stepping away from the yoko where you live its colder for longer than down here.
I wouldn't be mixing 3 and 5 though it's a different tyre why not just fit the correct oem sizes like
@Ardent in Rainsport 5?
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 4, 2021, 21:01Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 20:54I made a shocking decision today.
I'm getting rid.
... of my AD08Rs!
I'm going to follow in @Ardent 's footsteps and I've ordered a set of
195/50/15 Rainsport 5
215/45/16 Rainsport 3
I've had to go down a width on the rear, which will be odd for me, and lead to a more square setup but still plenty of stagger.
Looking forward to it.
At the same time I will fit my rear EBC pads and spacers on the rear.
I can understand stepping away from the yoko where you live its colder for longer than down here.
I wouldn't be mixing 3 and 5 though it's a different tyre why not just fit the correct oem sizes like @Ardent in Rainsport 5?
Jase also has it mixed.
Sizes just aren't available in one of them.
And remember I've got 7in wheels in front, so I can't go lower than 195.
For every tyre choice there was a compromise, except for the AD08RS, which are a compromise in their own right.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 21:23Quote from: 1979scotte on March 4, 2021, 21:01Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 20:54I made a shocking decision today.
I'm getting rid.
... of my AD08Rs!
I'm going to follow in @Ardent 's footsteps and I've ordered a set of
195/50/15 Rainsport 5
215/45/16 Rainsport 3
I've had to go down a width on the rear, which will be odd for me, and lead to a more square setup but still plenty of stagger.
Looking forward to it.
At the same time I will fit my rear EBC pads and spacers on the rear.
I can understand stepping away from the yoko where you live its colder for longer than down here.
I wouldn't be mixing 3 and 5 though it's a different tyre why not just fit the correct oem sizes like @Ardent in Rainsport 5?
Jase also has it mixed.
Sizes just aren't available in one of them.
And remember I've got 7in wheels in front, so I can't go lower than 195.
For every tyre choice there was a compromise, except for the AD08RS, which are a compromise in their own right.
Then a new tyre must be found.
I'm not mixing
Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 21:23For every tyre choice there was a compromise, except for the AD08RS, which are a compromise in their own right.
That pretty much covers it.
Quote from: Ardent on March 5, 2021, 07:05Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 21:23For every tyre choice there was a compromise, except for the AD08RS, which are a compromise in their own right.
That pretty much covers it.
We're any of the compromises financial?
Not fancying the NS20's then?
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 5, 2021, 07:20Quote from: Ardent on March 5, 2021, 07:05Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 21:23For every tyre choice there was a compromise, except for the AD08RS, which are a compromise in their own right.
That pretty much covers it.
We're any of the compromises financial?
I never compromise financially on tyres. But, it was nice that it came to half the price of AD08RSs.
Quote from: tricky1138 on March 5, 2021, 08:08Not fancying the NS20's then?
They were in my basket first. Reviews are getting increasingly better as more people try them. But unfortunately could not find a suitable front tyre size to match my wheels.
It's getting close to crunch time wrt these alloys. 195 width 15s that match a set of rear 215 or 225 16s are rare.
The only thing I can think to do is go square 15s. Get some matching TD1.2 15s for the rear
Did you consider these?;
https://www.zestino.eu/en/gredge-07rs/?mode=grid&limit=24&sort=popular&max=250&min=0&sort=popular&brand=0&filter%5B%5D=276812&filter%5B%5D=276815
Quote from: shnazzle on March 5, 2021, 08:32Quote from: 1979scotte on March 5, 2021, 07:20Quote from: Ardent on March 5, 2021, 07:05Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 21:23For every tyre choice there was a compromise, except for the AD08RS, which are a compromise in their own right.
That pretty much covers it.
We're any of the compromises financial?
I never compromise financially on tyres. But, it was nice that it came to half the price of AD08RSs.
Quote from: tricky1138 on March 5, 2021, 08:08Not fancying the NS20's then?
They were in my basket first. Reviews are getting increasingly better as more people try them. But unfortunately could not find a suitable front tyre size to match my wheels.
It's getting close to crunch time wrt these alloys. 195 width 15s that match a set of rear 215 or 225 16s are rare.
The only thing I can think to do is go square 15s. Get some matching TD1.2 15s for the rear
You're on 15/16 setup?
I got 195/50/15 and 225/45/16 but you can get 215/45/16 as well if you wanted that.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 5, 2021, 07:20Quote from: Ardent on March 5, 2021, 07:05Quote from: shnazzle on March 4, 2021, 21:23For every tyre choice there was a compromise, except for the AD08RS, which are a compromise in their own right.
That pretty much covers it.
We're any of the compromises financial?
No.
If yoko had left the recipe the same, I would have had another set. But they didn't.
The current combo, I'm finding more usable more of the time.
Quote from: Topdownman on March 5, 2021, 09:18Did you consider these?;
https://www.zestino.eu/en/gredge-07rs/?mode=grid&limit=24&sort=popular&max=250&min=0&sort=popular&brand=0&filter%5B%5D=276812&filter%5B%5D=276815
They're not going to be any better than the AD08R in the cold and wet do you think?
I hope that they would be a better replacement for AD08r than AD08rs are but I havent tried them myself yet.
They will no doubt have the usual drawbacks in the wet and cold!
I wouldnt mix Rainsport3 and Rainsport5 from what ive read especially on a tyre sensitive car like MR2.
Ive had RS3 on a few cars and they are ok just a bit squishy due to softness especially when new as you would expect, the RS5 is meant to be vastly improved in this regard so will inbalance car i think having just on front. I see the RS5 are not available in your selected rear size but can your rear wheels take the 205/45-16 they do ? thats size ive got on mine with zestinos but i am on stock FL wheels, plenty of grip thats for sure :D
Quote from: thetyrant on March 5, 2021, 10:53I wouldnt mix Rainsport3 and Rainsport5 from what ive read especially on a tyre sensitive car like MR2.
Ive had RS3 on a few cars and they are ok just a bit squishy due to softness especially when new as you would expect, the RS5 is meant to be vastly improved in this regard so will inbalance car i think having just on front. I see the RS5 are not available in your selected rear size but can your rear wheels take the 205/45-16 they do ? thats size ive got on mine with zestinos but i am on stock FL wheels, plenty of grip thats for sure :D
See Jason's post.
He's been driving this combo on his TTE for a bit now and he's happy, and the reality is... we're not F1 drivers. They will be absolutely grand. My days of risk before sense are over.
I've said this 100x...
The hardest run we've done was on a battered pre-fl with 4 different tyres, only one branded.
It was fantastic.
Tell you what's not fantastic... Half-aged AD08Rs in the cold and wet. Sick of looking out, seeing its raining and thinking "hmm, must take it easy".
I've driven the Rain sports before on our old mr2. Yeah they're softer but I did 1000+ miles on them, some of them quite feisty, and they felt grand.
I can also confirm Rainsport 3s fill me with confidence in the 2 just check the pressured are correct and you won't be disappointed
I rarely read individual's reviews on tyres, - apart from the unanimous praise that the ADO8's got from folk on people on here that were prepared to pay the premium price of them, - they were obviously a great tyre apart from cold temperatures.
I read Tyre tests. The Nankang's don't fare well. The Falken ze310 & the Hankook k125 do.
You'll remember Patrick, that I ended up in a field (fortunately the right way up...) on a wet run with the first 2 that I bought. Whatever the fault it had, it made cornering in the wet a squeaky-bum event at every turn.
So you can imagine my confidence took a lot of rebuilding when I bought the next one. (now resides in Montrose)
The tyres on it were ancient & I put on the Falken. 3 or 4 days after getting them fitted I travelled down for the Lindisfarne run, & the weather was shocking. Lots of standing water. The car never flinched.
When I bought car no3, one size of the ZE310 wasn't available. Tests said the Hankook K125 was damn good & terrific for the price, so I got those. (195 front)
The price of the K125 has shot up. Whether because it's getting in short supply because a replacement is coming, or Brexit or Covid....????
I have a new set of wheels, so have been looking occasionally at tyre tests & prices. The ze310 is cheaper than the K125, & for Winter use, possibly better, I've aquaplaned once with the K125. Speed was a factor though.... ::)
I'll be looking at ZE310 for my other 2 - waiting for an ebay offer including Demon Tweeks. (They also sell Rainsports)
Regardless, the deed has been done and should arrive soon.
Then I'll likely play with tyre pressures a bit to find the sweet spot for my driving and then I'll give these a good ol try until they need replacing. At that point I will decide.
Worst case scenario is that I hate them and I replace them. I've spent more on far less important things.
But year after year buying AD08s, suffering their inabilities and discomfort for the sake of a couple of fun moments and not wanting to take the risk on other tyres,... Sick of it.
So just diving in the deep end and seeing what's out there.
@tricky1138 I could not find a mix of 225/45/16 and 195/50/15! To be fair, I didn't look across retailers. Idea for next time.
Wasn't supposed to turn into a debate. Just a case of "I've bought these, let's see how I get on" :)
My post wasnt about rainsports in general and i would be happy to run them for road use, and have in past on other cars, its more about mixing the RS3 and RS5 as they are very different tyres in terms of construction etc, at least you will have the better/firmer tyre on the front.
Im sure you will but let us know how you go, as you say you can have fun with most setups once your aware of the limits :D
@shnazzle said:
Tell you what's not fantastic... Half-aged AD08Rs in the cold and wet. Sick of looking out, seeing its raining and thinking "hmm, must take it easy".
Most of my driving was in new/ ish Company cars. So they had OE tyres, typically changed for the same again when replacement was needed.
My daily I have had from new and came with Continental 's these have been replaced as required with the same again and recently with their update.
The Toyota 2 was OE with typically Bridgestone tyres, now no longer available so a change is necessary.
My understanding is that car manufacturers fit a particular tyre type for a reason and that is what I go along with.
My 2 came to me with no names and I quite quickly changed them after much consideration to Falken for only summer driving which does "sometimes" include rain, a recent Ding Day was very wet and I wouldn't have driven otherwise, but they coped well with standing water.
But I do concur with Patrick. Why consider a tyre that can cause concern in less than ideal conditions.
Cold and wet ? That could be at any time of the year here in the UK.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 5, 2021, 12:14Regardless, the deed has been done and should arrive soon.
Ah, - didn't realise you'd already ordered. Maybe you'll want to delete some of these then...
Think it was TyreLeader for rears and Demon Tweeks for the fronts.
I'm sure we'll find out how you get one with the Rainsports. Considering the 5's for the Skoda.
Tyres arrived.
I'm a bit worried now... The treads are completely different between RS3 and RS5 ;)
IMG_20210308_105456_resize_27.jpg
*Go on kitty... Go play with the pigeons! *
Still not mismatched ditchfinders though are they? Which is where the trouble starts, just chuck em on!🤓
Still a different compound.
We've been telling folk to fit the same tyre across all 4 wheels now we're saying its OK to be different.
Confused.com
Edit
Had a quick look and you can get the correct pfl size 185 55 and 205 50
Edit. As Scotte rightly comments, the general consensus is to fit a full set of the same tyres for optimum safety and performance and anyone new to the marque would be well advised to stick to this tactic.
But this is Patrick we're talking to and if anyone can style it out going backwards round a roundabout it's him!🤓
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 8, 2021, 15:11Still a different compound.
We've been telling folk to fit the same tyre across all 4 wheels now we're saying its OK to be different.
Confused.com
Edit
Had a quick look and you can get the correct pfl size 185 55 and 205 50
I can't run 185. 195 minimum on 7in wheels. Aside from the fact that I'm on FL :)
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 8, 2021, 15:26Edit. As Scotte rightly comments, the general consensus is to fit a full set of the same tyres for optimum safety and performance and anyone new to the marque would be well advised to stick to this tactic.
But this is Patrick we're talking to and if anyone can style it out going backwards round a roundabout it's him!🤓
I don't necessarily subscribe to that. Fronts and rears do very different jobs.
I've never been particularly strict on "all 4 need to be the same". As long as they're the same on each axle.
Yeah it's best and I certainly wouldn't run say, AD08s in thr rear and Toyos in the front.
But... How many of us have run ad08 and AD08R? Or AD08R and AD08RS :) That's essentially what I've got. Same tyres. One set newer version.
And, importantly, the front and the rear do very different things.
The problem with a lot of this "car" stuff is that people get too hung up on things. There's far too much "you should never..." without any backing.
Like, "you should never run K&N air filters". Why not?
If you maintain it well, according to instructions, they work perfectly fine and will never damage a MAF.
I'll repeat it again... I've run hard on 4 different crap, no-brand tyres. Through gravel, wet, tarmac, dry... Had an absolute blast and car never felt off. Optimal, no. Had to adjust my driving. And I'd best avoid deep puddles. It does introduce risk, but you manage it. Having 4 nice fancy tyres just reduces risk a bit.
Could say the same for tyre sizes. How many of us run 195/50 and 225/45? Or 205 square? That's not OEM... That's introducing risk and compromise over and above what Toyota designed.
They never designed it to have a bodykit and 400bhp either....
Quote from: Carolyn on March 8, 2021, 15:41Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 8, 2021, 15:26Edit. As Scotte rightly comments, the general consensus is to fit a full set of the same tyres for optimum safety and performance and anyone new to the marque would be well advised to stick to this tactic.
But this is Patrick we're talking to and if anyone can style it out going backwards round a roundabout it's him!🤓
I don't necessarily subscribe to that. Fronts and rears do very different jobs.
What do I know? I've got some 5 year old part worn Toyos I'm keeping should I ever need any "winter" tyres..😆
I've had lots of tyres on lots of cars over my working years, not so many now I'm not working.
In my experience two tyres wear out quicker than the other two, so typically two are replaced.
But in between times the tyre manufacturer will sometimes change the tyre.
I would like to believe that there is compatibility between the early tyre and the newer tyre, it really would not be good for business if that were not the case.
Next time around all four are replaced and the cycle can start again.
All good posts.
Patrick summed it up previously.
Choose your compromise.
A full oem matching set would be nice.
But we know they do not really exist.
Which us why there are countless threads on the very subject.
I also agree with
@Carolyn and recall a very well crafted post she put on regards the reasoning for dif front vs back.
I'd wager that
@Carolyn had different tyres on the back of her Rocket Mobil than were on the front.
Quote from: Joesson on March 8, 2021, 18:15I'd wager that @Carolyn had different tyres on the back of her Rocket Mobil than were on the front.
You'd win that wager.
I don't like AD08R and AD08RS on mixed the blue that's for sure.
@shnazzle I know you can't run pfl sizes I was just happy that I can if I choose to.
My comment here has nothing to do with tyres, what an awesome thread, I have just taken about 2 hours reading through all of the twists and turns regarding mods and tuning.
Much to take away from this :-) thanks for this superb record Patrick
Quote from: Gibla on March 8, 2021, 19:52My comment here has nothing to do with tyres, what an awesome thread, I have just taken about 2 hours reading through all of the twists and turns regarding mods and tuning.
Much to take away from this :-) thanks for this superb record Patrick
2hrs? I'm honoured!
Thanks so much for reading through all that drivel. 8 years of it.
It has been a journey...
I similarly read the epic
@1979scotte build thread a week or two ago, charting the highs,lows and potential pitfalls of modifying.
'a journey' seems a classic understatement
Quote from: Gibla on March 8, 2021, 20:28I similarly read the epic @1979scotte build thread a week or two ago, charting the highs,lows and potential pitfalls of modifying.
'a journey' seems a classic understatement
I am yet to climb the peaks of that particular mountain although I believe thanks to
@Carolyn and
@jonbill I am clear of the valley floor and into the foot hills.
I gave up on my readers ride thread some time ago, I can't remember how many times I've tried destroying the car.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 8, 2021, 20:35Quote from: Gibla on March 8, 2021, 20:28I similarly read the epic @1979scotte build thread a week or two ago, charting the highs,lows and potential pitfalls of modifying.
'a journey' seems a classic understatement
I am yet to climb the peaks of that particular mountain although I believe thanks to @Carolyn and @jonbill I am clear of the valley floor and into the foot hills.
you can see the sunlit uplands from here.
Quote from: Gibla on March 8, 2021, 20:28I similarly read the epic @1979scotte build thread a week or two ago, charting the highs,lows and potential pitfalls of modifying.
'a journey' seems a classic understatement
Maybe "
odyssey" better suits.
Quote from: Joesson on March 9, 2021, 09:48Quote from: Gibla on March 8, 2021, 20:28I similarly read the epic @1979scotte build thread a week or two ago, charting the highs,lows and potential pitfalls of modifying.
'a journey' seems a classic understatement
Maybe "odyssey" better suits.
Last night I read through my own RR. Good few laughs (at myself).
It's been a journey for sure. Definitely not over yet.
I've got a garage full of stuff that needs to be put on the car. Just no time.
And at some point I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get the car resprayed. The inside looks good (few tweaks to be done), the engine is (seemingly) healthy, the bottom end is going to be improved... The body is going to have to match.
Plan is to slowly but surely start replacing things with new. No more bodges.
Respray?
Thats running before walking isnt it?
Better start with washing and polishing.....
Quote from: Topdownman on March 9, 2021, 15:53Respray?
Thats running before walking isnt it?
Better start with washing and polishing.....
Au contraire. You know how I used to be!
It's just that once the paint gets so bad, it's not worth it anymore.
Times have changed. Much more traffic. Roads are worse. I'm older and wiser. Chances of my bonnet/bumper are not going to end up looking like it's been the victim of pellet gun target practice.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 16:03Quote from: Topdownman on March 9, 2021, 15:53Respray?
Thats running before walking isnt it?
Better start with washing and polishing.....
Au contraire. You know how I used to be!
It's just that once the paint gets so bad, it's not worth it anymore.
Times have changed. Much more traffic. Roads are worse. I'm older and wiser. Chances of my bonnet/bumper are not going to end up looking like it's been the victim of pellet gun target practice.
You're certainly older.
Rainsports are on and I took a little drive around the area.
So far I'm rather pleased. Didn't do anything silly as it was wet and the tyres are still brand new and need scrubbing in.
The ride is infinitely more comfortable.
It didn't feel wallowy at all. Feedback seemed good and I didn't get any of that Toyo T1-R "booiiingg" when coming out of a corner.
Running 32psi all round as a starter for 10,as I expected I'd need to overinflate the fronts. But I may take that down a bit actually.
So far so good.
Next steps:
- rear spacers
- rear brakes
- dog bone roll-center adjusters
- front a-arms
- potentially new ARBs front and back with new bushes.
Then an alignment. Last one was 2017...
Things have not gone well with my new tyres.
Not because of the tyres. But because of my wheels.
I forgot that with 225 tyres the offset difference between front and rear could be fixed with spacers.
Now that I've gone down to 215 tyres, I'd need 20mm spacers.
Things have gotten stupid.
Team Dynamics are coming off. New tyres onto my stock FL spare set and going on :(
Really gutted.
Then once I've saved up it'll be a case of how am I going to fix my issue.
1) sell the rear wheels and replace with et35. Does mean I'm stuck on coilovers as I know et35 scrapes without them. But quite frankly, with the Rainsports, the coilovers are far less harsh.
2) sell the fronts and go for et42. Only 3mm wider than rear. But, I can either add spacers on the rear (8mm) or put 225 tyres back on.
4)sell the whole set to someone for a bargain who is happy to run rear 20mm spacers (or 10mm) if on 225 tyres. (unless running 185 fronts... You get the idea)
Stock wheels and tyre sizes work better for me.
Scotte's observation is sound.
I've only ever had stock size wheels and tyres on my 2 and every other car I've ever had. I have also often read of problems with this or that when wheel and tyre sizes are changed from standard.
Quote from: Joesson on March 14, 2021, 14:25Scotte's observation is sound.
I've only ever had stock size wheels and tyres on my 2 and every other car I've ever had. I have also often read of problems with this or that when wheel and tyre sizes are changed from standard.
Would have been fine had I not mixed et35 front and et45 rear.
Was stupid mistake on my part. Would also have been fine with the spacers rear. But now on slimmer tyres..time for stocks to come out
Quote from: shnazzle on March 14, 2021, 14:41Quote from: Joesson on March 14, 2021, 14:25Scotte's observation is sound.
I've only ever had stock size wheels and tyres on my 2 and every other car I've ever had. I have also often read of problems with this or that when wheel and tyre sizes are changed from standard.
Would have been fine had I not mixed et35 front and et45 rear.
Was stupid mistake on my part. Would also have been fine with the spacers rear. But now on slimmer tyres..time for stocks to come out
It doesn't count as a mistake in the big book of life if you "make a mistake" but have a cunning plan to rectify it.
Quote from: Joesson on March 14, 2021, 14:59Quote from: shnazzle on March 14, 2021, 14:41Quote from: Joesson on March 14, 2021, 14:25Scotte's observation is sound.
I've only ever had stock size wheels and tyres on my 2 and every other car I've ever had. I have also often read of problems with this or that when wheel and tyre sizes are changed from standard.
Would have been fine had I not mixed et35 front and et45 rear.
Was stupid mistake on my part. Would also have been fine with the spacers rear. But now on slimmer tyres..time for stocks to come out
It doesn't count as a mistake in the big book of life if you "make a mistake" but have a cunning plan to rectify it.
Good news is... Might have a set of scuff-free TD1.2s for sale soon. With spacers
The time has come...
My car is off the road.
Time to be stripped.
Helen's car has fresh service, fresh brakes, fresh tyres, ready to be MR2 #1 for a while.
Going to start small;
- wheels off and swap tyres onto my spare FL set.
- refresh rear calipers (depending on condition)
- free up handbrake
- put EBC yellows on rear
- maybe take off suspension and clean it up.
- replace ARBs bushes and maybe even replace ARBs. But remove, strip, treat, repaint at the very least with some fresh droplinks all round
- wishbones in front
- replace all broken bolts. Drill out any snapped.
- remove, strip, treat, repaint radiator brackets, ABS bracket and any other brackets in front
- get new front plastics and cut nicely for new AutoDiverse front brace.
- fit front and rear bonnet struts
- replace driver side headlight and fog with nicer spares.
- fit dogbone roll-center adjusters
- replace toe/"camber" arms with fresher set I've had for a while
- check steering UJ. If any play at all, replace with new and fit Snelbaard cover. If not. Just fit cover.
- check and clear behind wheel arches. Check for rust.
- a last step, once driveable again, will be to get the rusty door fixed.
- fit new aux belt tensioner and as many pulleys as I can reach without engine removal. Some play in some pulleys
- get spare injectors cleaned and replace mine with new seals. Hopefully may resolve sporadic misfire I've had for years now.
- refit emanage. Blank timing map. Allowing for some MAF measurement and small over-time tweaks to MAF values to accommodate exhaust.
- find armrest and fit (was it Rover45?) or make one.
- remove unused camera rear license plate holder
Pfff... And that's just the easy stuff...it's going to be a while until this is done! But, it won't be out of use for all of it obviously
Think I've got a spare Rover armrest if I didn't throw it at the last DDay auction, it's yours if I have and you want to go down that route.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 1, 2021, 21:43Think I've got a spare Rover armrest if I didn't throw it at the last DDay auction, it's yours if I have and you want to go down that route.
Not going to say no to that.
Thanks heaps. No rush, as usual. Whenever we next meet. May be Ding Day
Quote from: shnazzle on April 1, 2021, 21:35The time has come...
My car is off the road.
Time to be stripped.
Helen's car has fresh service, fresh brakes, fresh tyres, ready to be MR2 #1 for a while.
Going to start small;
- wheels off and swap tyres onto my spare FL set.
- refresh rear calipers (depending on condition)
- free up handbrake
- put EBC yellows on rear
- maybe take off suspension and clean it up.
- replace ARBs bushes and maybe even replace ARBs. But remove, strip, treat, repaint at the very least with some fresh droplinks all round
- wishbones in front
- replace all broken bolts. Drill out any snapped.
- remove, strip, treat, repaint radiator brackets, ABS bracket and any other brackets in front
- get new front plastics and cut nicely for new AutoDiverse front brace.
- fit front and rear bonnet struts
- replace driver side headlight and fog with nicer spares.
- fit dogbone roll-center adjusters
- replace toe/"camber" arms with fresher set I've had for a while
- check steering UJ. If any play at all, replace with new and fit Snelbaard cover. If not. Just fit cover.
- check and clear behind wheel arches. Check for rust.
- a last step, once driveable again, will be to get the rusty door fixed.
- fit new aux belt tensioner and as many pulleys as I can reach without engine removal. Some play in some pulleys
- get spare injectors cleaned and replace mine with new seals. Hopefully may resolve sporadic misfire I've had for years now.
- refit emanage. Blank timing map. Allowing for some MAF measurement and small over-time tweaks to MAF values to accommodate exhaust.
- find armrest and fit (was it Rover45?) or make one.
- remove unused camera rear license plate holder
Pfff... And that's just the easy stuff...it's going to be a while until this is done! But, it won't be out of use for all of it obviously
Aye, that's a good old list. But is it a keeper? :-\ :))
Quote from: cptspaulding on April 2, 2021, 10:17Quote from: shnazzle on April 1, 2021, 21:35The time has come...
My car is off the road.
Time to be stripped.
Helen's car has fresh service, fresh brakes, fresh tyres, ready to be MR2 #1 for a while.
Going to start small;
- wheels off and swap tyres onto my spare FL set.
- refresh rear calipers (depending on condition)
- free up handbrake
- put EBC yellows on rear
- maybe take off suspension and clean it up.
- replace ARBs bushes and maybe even replace ARBs. But remove, strip, treat, repaint at the very least with some fresh droplinks all round
- wishbones in front
- replace all broken bolts. Drill out any snapped.
- remove, strip, treat, repaint radiator brackets, ABS bracket and any other brackets in front
- get new front plastics and cut nicely for new AutoDiverse front brace.
- fit front and rear bonnet struts
- replace driver side headlight and fog with nicer spares.
- fit dogbone roll-center adjusters
- replace toe/"camber" arms with fresher set I've had for a while
- check steering UJ. If any play at all, replace with new and fit Snelbaard cover. If not. Just fit cover.
- check and clear behind wheel arches. Check for rust.
- a last step, once driveable again, will be to get the rusty door fixed.
- fit new aux belt tensioner and as many pulleys as I can reach without engine removal. Some play in some pulleys
- get spare injectors cleaned and replace mine with new seals. Hopefully may resolve sporadic misfire I've had for years now.
- refit emanage. Blank timing map. Allowing for some MAF measurement and small over-time tweaks to MAF values to accommodate exhaust.
- find armrest and fit (was it Rover45?) or make one.
- remove unused camera rear license plate holder
Pfff... And that's just the easy stuff...it's going to be a while until this is done! But, it won't be out of use for all of it obviously
Aye, that's a good old list. But is it a keeper? :-\ :))
Oh definitely. I've been down the road of looking for a better replacement. But it wouldn't be my MR2. It's not the same.
Makes no financial sense but what about cars ever does?
It might be a shed - but it's Patrick's shed and he's attached to it.
Quote from: Carolyn on April 2, 2021, 15:36It might be a shed - but it's Patrick's shed and he's attached to it.
It's not quite a shed! Cheeky pest
What's that big river in t'Egypt?
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 2, 2021, 18:37What's that big river in t'Egypt?
.... How's your car running sir?
Quote from: shnazzle on April 2, 2021, 18:51Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 2, 2021, 18:37What's that big river in t'Egypt?
.... How's your car running sir?
Like an absolute bag of s@@t...😆
Had an hour between meetings so decided to get a bit of work in
- rear engine lid struts on. Alibaba special. They work, but I'm likely going to swap out for stronger struts. These drop pretty quickly once past a certain point. I think if I were to rely on this and there was a gust of wind, I'd have an engine lid on my head.
- frunk bin out, brackets out, radiator brackets out, front strut brace out.
Looking down into the hole it's funny to see how close to the ground the front is to the bottom bars. Maybe 15cm?
All the brackwts need removing, cleaning and repainting, including the ABS bracket. It's a mess.
Power steering pipes need replacing. Not weeping but pretty darn rusty.
Universal joint is fine, but when in Rome... Also give me the opportunity to put on Snelbaard's UJ cover
Basically all front suspension members will need to be removed, treated and replaced. Likely going to snap a lot of bolts.
Think I'll order a new bonnet seal as well. Bit too much rust on the struts for my liking.
And that's just the front!
Some weight saving today.
Subwoofer, double-din radio and radio control stalk out
The noise of the exhaust is all I need.
Battery on trickle.
Wheels coming off and being replaced by stock once I can afford to have the Rainsports swapped to the stocks.
Almost done with the grand stripping.
Stock backbox in the garage now. Mani and cat to Helen's car, TTE backbox sold.
Just need steering wheel swapped out for Helen's, stock radio back in, put interior back together and take the Carolyn's mid-brace off and onto Helen's.
Oh and swap wind deflectors :) My sticker is nicer haha.
Oh and swap driver doors with my "new" one.
Quote from: shnazzle on October 23, 2021, 12:36Almost done with the grand stripping.
Stock backbox in the garage now. Mani and cat to Helen's car, TTE backbox sold.
Just need steering wheel swapped out for Helen's, stock radio back in, put interior back together and take the Carolyn's mid-brace off and onto Helen's.
Oh and swap wind deflectors :) My sticker is nicer haha.
Oh and swap driver doors with my "new" one.
It's going to be one cracking car.
Quote from: Carolyn on October 23, 2021, 12:50Quote from: shnazzle on October 23, 2021, 12:36Almost done with the grand stripping.
Stock backbox in the garage now. Mani and cat to Helen's car, TTE backbox sold.
Just need steering wheel swapped out for Helen's, stock radio back in, put interior back together and take the Carolyn's mid-brace off and onto Helen's.
Oh and swap wind deflectors :) My sticker is nicer haha.
Oh and swap driver doors with my "new" one.
It's going to be one cracking car.
I'm looking forward to it.
Then to determine what will happen with mine.
I think it's a great platform for a track car or swap for someone.
I had my tyres swopped onto my stock rims last week and resented the £60 cost!
Quote from: Topdownman on October 23, 2021, 14:28I had my tyres swopped onto my stock rims last week and resented the £60 cost!
Oh I know!
I'm keeping the Rainsports as a spare set.
They're as good as new as I've done maybe 1000 miles in the 2 in the last 2 years.
The alloys are going up for sale for someone who wants to run a more square and wider setup (with the spacers)
Good luck selling your square wheels!
MOT due Monday, so SORNing it Monday to put Helen's back on the road from about a year of SORN.
That's the end of my car.
It's been lovely. It's brought me many smiles.
I do hope it can continue to make someone else smile in whatever form.
As-is, it'd be a great shell for a conversion or track car.
If not, I'll fix it up over winter and early next year, MOT it and put it up for sale
That's two sad buttons I've needed today.
Quote from: Ardent on December 4, 2021, 22:07That's two sad buttons I've needed today.
I'll still be here, in a 2. A sable 2. Which looks pretty much identical to how mine used to. You'll never know the difference haha
Maybe I've missed something, but what changed from being a keeper in April to going in October?
We really should sell at least one of ours, but which one? That is the question! Oldie maybe 20 years old but she has one of the very last engines and a hard top, Newbie the TF, is well, a TF, and Inbetweenie is the original car that I wanted 10 years ago, black with black leather interior and air conditioning. So you can see why we can't decide :(
Quote from: carolineasb on December 5, 2021, 19:03Maybe I've missed something, but what changed from being a keeper in April to going in October?
We really should sell at least one of ours, but which one? That is the question! Oldie maybe 20 years old it she has one of the very last engines and a hard top, Newbie the TV, is well, a TF, and Inbetweenie is the original car that I wanted 10 years ago, black with black leather interior and air conditioning. So you can see why we can't decide :(
Just me not wanting to get rid of my car that I have so much history with. Heart over head. But at the end of the day, we can't really justify 3 cars, two of which are identical.
It made more sense to take the good bits off mine and put them on Helen's than vice-versa.
Head wins.
How's that for weight-saving
@Petrus?
Step one today of getting it ready for its handover to
@MrChris.
TTE exhaust off. I was pleased as every single bolt from rear bumper to exhaust came straight off without a fight.
I'm going to have the joys on getting the o2 sensor out the cat... I think I'm just going to disconnect it and leave it in :)
Manifold bolts look fresh as a daisy as well so they should come straight off. No need to tackle the 3 amigos as the mani+cat are being transplanted.
Wheel nuts loosened to put the stock wheels on.
I've got 45 mins each day during lunch (if not raining) in which I can tackle this. Then it's a clean, get it up and running and send it to its new home.
Sounds good and can't wait to be back in a 2.
I'm impressed you have the willpower to work on your car during lunch break!
Honestly a shame this is the end (beginning for MrChris) of the journey.
Quote from: SuperArt on February 9, 2022, 21:01I'm impressed you have the willpower to work on your car during lunch break!
Honestly a shame this is the end (beginning for MrChris) of the journey.
What's not impressive is how long it's taken me to do this.
But, Helen's car literally just looks like mine now. The spoiler is on, it'll have the zunsport grilles, my interior... I'd be surprised if anyone could tell the difference
On the list still;
- swap wheels
- remove Center brace
- swap steering wheel
- swap shifter
- swap markiii pipe
- put all plastics back in
- put stock radio back in (do you want this
@MrChris?)
- put ashtray back in
- swap binnacle for one without bastard chrome rings.
Then I need to get the exhaust system off the other mr2 and swap it this one...
Argh.
But all in all it should be only about 3 more sessions.
Steering wheel and binnacle swapped.
Steering wheel is fun to do without the puller tool.... it's one of the few cases when brute force does win the day.
Realised I had never taken a steering wheel off before. Always a time for a first.
I might do markiii and wheels later.
One slight issue encountered. And it is ever so slight; There's a little cover that clips on to the door to cover the top bolt of the handle on the inside. I seem to be missing it. No idea where it's gone. I may need to source one.
Forgot another item on the list; change the rusty door over for the non-rusty one. That'll be fun as well.
...argh.
I leave those covers out when I do a handle/lock swap.. They are a bit of a 'security device, but hard to take seriously on a soft top!
Quote from: Carolyn on February 10, 2022, 18:05I leave those covers out when I do a handle/lock swap.. They are a bit of a 'security device, but hard to take seriously on a soft top!
No no I mean on the door card. The "D" shaped bits under where the wingmirror is
Ah.
Done:- swap binnacle for one without bastard chrome rings.- swap markiii pipe- swap steering wheel- TTE off (sold and shipped!) Left to do;- swap wheels- remove Center brace- swap shifter- put all plastics back in- put stock radio back in (do you want this @MrChris?)- put ashtray back in- get full exhaust off other car and put on this one - swap door for non-rusty specimen- quick clean Getting there.
That's a lot of work done!
Quote from: J88TEO on February 24, 2022, 09:14That's a lot of work done!
Still plenty to do! The exhaust off should be very easy as I removed the crashbar. It's my preferred method of exhaust removal vs trying to drag it out the bottom.
I hope i still have the surround for hte stock radio :(
Done:- swap shifter- swap wheels- removed the manifold and cat off car- tightened the fancy magnetic Mishimoto sump plug that leaked.Left to do;- remove Center brace- put all plastics back in- put stock radio back in (do you want this @MrChris?)- put ashtray back in- get full exhaust off other car and put on this one- swap door for non-rusty specimen- quick cleansodding cat bolt was bent! can't trust anyone to do any work on your car other than yourself. So a nice snapped bolt....Luckily just a case of replacement and no impact on gettig the car ready as it's my problem
Done:
- swap door - put ashtray back inLeft to do;- remove Center brace- put all plastics back in- put stock radio back in (do you want this @MrChris?)- get full exhaust off other car and put on this one- quick cleanTell you what.. Swapping a door is NOT a 1 person job.Taking it off... No problem. Putting it on... Fk sake...Then I realised I forgot about my aftermarket speakers which I need to swap.... Funny story; after posting this, the door had been on the drive for about 15mins when the friendly local scrappies came and took it. They're so efficient :)
I did have to run after them because I was upstairs watching them load it when I noticed Dev's door jam still attached. Aaahhh!
Ran out. Not surprisingly they had a host of rather dodgy tools in their van that allowed me to remove it.
Phew
What Speakers do you have and are they spare? ;)
Quote from: tricky1138 on February 25, 2022, 10:39What Speakers do you have and are they spare? ;)
Nah they're going with the car. They're somewhere in this thread above
Yes these doors are HEAVY..I did it balancing it on a block of wood on the trolley jack.
Quote from: Carolyn on February 25, 2022, 11:03Yes these doors are HEAVY..I did it balancing it on a block of wood on the trolley jack.
I had my wheels to balance it on. Luckily, as it turns out, mr2 16inch alloys are at thr perfect height to rest a door on to align with the door hinges :)
Top tip
He's on a roll today.
Aftermarket speaker fitted to new door
All front plastics back in, along with spare wheel and tool kit. Spare wheel and alarm have already had the spare wheel flip and alarm move mod applied.
Brought all the inside plastics into the car. Getting there!
hard at work eh!
Goodbye my friend. It's been a journey.
IMG_20220319_192721_resize_47.jpg
IMG-20220319-WA0007_resize_23.jpg
Off to
@MrChris for another life.
I refuse to "like" this for lots of reasons but I'm happy if you're happy 👍🏻
Quote from: shnazzle on March 19, 2022, 20:32Goodbye my friend. It's been a journey.
IMG_20220319_192721_resize_47.jpg
IMG-20220319-WA0007_resize_23.jpg
Off to @MrChris for another life.
All good things come to an end.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 19, 2022, 20:39I refuse to "like" this for lots of reasons but I'm happy if you're happy 👍🏻
Yeah I'm the same. I can't like it, but know your reasons and there's always Helen's to keep you going.
New owner here, and it's en route as I type this! I'll be starting a reader's ride tomorrow. So while it'll be end of an era for
@shnazzle it's certainly not the last you'll be seeing of this 2.
Also I have to say what a tremendous bloke
@shnazzle is, and I'm very much looking forward to getting to know this 2 tomorrow when it's light.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 19, 2022, 20:49All good things come to an end.
Good on you and your pragmatism.
Quote from: MrChris on March 19, 2022, 22:20New owner here, and it's en route as I type this! I'll be starting a reader's ride tomorrow. So while it'll be end of an era for @shnazzle it's certainly not the last you'll be seeing of this 2.
Also I have to say what a tremendous bloke @shnazzle is, and I'm very much looking forward to getting to know this 2 tomorrow when it's light.
Good to know it's going to a good home. Will you be bringing it to the National Event?
Quote from: MrChris on March 19, 2022, 22:20New owner here, and it's en route as I type this! I'll be starting a reader's ride tomorrow. So while it'll be end of an era for @shnazzle it's certainly not the last you'll be seeing of this 2.
Also I have to say what a tremendous bloke @shnazzle is, and I'm very much looking forward to getting to know this 2 tomorrow when it's light.
Very kind. Shouldn't be long now. Google says 3:45 min drive.
For the guy.
It's a project for sure but looking forward to see it on a track!
Quote from: tricky1138 on March 19, 2022, 22:45Good to know it's going to a good home. Will you be bringing it to the National Event?
No idea yet but it's a possibility. I've never quite been one for car meets but there's a first for everything right? It'll definitely be getting track time so it'd be good to perhaps get on track with fellow 2 owners at the very least.
And just like that it's new life begins. More to follow...
20220320_001605.jpg
20220320_003907.jpg
Quote from: Alex Knight on March 19, 2022, 22:27Good on you and your pragmatism.
I used to think selling up was madness but priorities change.
The saga continues on
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=72563.0