The "confirmation driving pattern" is
- turn engine off
- ignition on and idle for 2 mins
- drive at 24+ mph for 20sec or more
- idle for 20sec or more
- drive for 20sec at 24mph+
- idle for 30sec

Quote from: shnazzle on April  1, 2018, 20:08
The "confirmation driving pattern" is
- turn engine off
- ignition on and idle for 2 mins
- drive at 24+ mph for 20sec or more
- idle for 20sec or more
- drive for 20sec at 24mph+
- idle for 30sec

Useful to know - far more scientific than my method of.... "warm up engine and then rag it for a while"....

Quote from: BahnStormer on April  1, 2018, 18:17

I just took the car for a run: Now I'm getting the "bank 1 sensor 2" error again... kicking myself for but at least I had a working EML to let me know it was happening... and the Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to work out what the EML light was for... DOX0206 on order... penetrating spray applied... sensor socket on standby.... part due for delivery on Weds/Thurs.

As you mention you are not noted for your patience ( I can relate when trying to get a car through the MOT) and that your original plan was to take it in tomorrow ? Just thought I would mention that you don't need a working post cat sensor to get through the MOT, I know 'cos I've done it (and I believe that the JDM version of the Mk3, the MR S doesn't even have a post cat sensor).

Unlike the other two sensors, the post cat sensor has no effect on fuelling it just monitors CAT condition. On my first Roadster (a UK car) I needed a new CAT to get through the MOT but the sensor was completely seized into position on my existing CAT ( a common problem) so I just plugged the hole in the new CAT with a bolt , which was fine for the MOT.

So if you wanted to get it in for MOT sooner just clear any CEL codes straight before hand and you should be fine (you may be better off disconnecting your post cat sensor which is effectively what I did, just don't leave the connector plug hanging down for the garage to find ).

Alternatively if you can wait till you get your new sensor then it obviously makes sense to do so, just hope your old one is more ready to budge than mine was.......    

 

Thanks! Good to know!! Combined with what I've seen and since been told about the "confirmation driving pattern" (thanks Schnazzle), I guess that error won't reset itself in a hurry... so if you're right about it not altering fueling, then I've got a chance with the MOT as-is. It's free for the retest, so worth a try!

The only cost is time and annoyance: both the MOT tester and me needing to ask to WFH / clock in at work late... not wanting to have to do that too often....

FYI

Quote from: K T M Rider on September 17, 2010, 19:04
took car back to MOT station today (after fitting new cat and spark plugs & changing oil to Mobil 1 15w50) and it sailed through   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: 

HC down from 119ppm to 6
CO down from 0.896% to 0.009.

As Cap suggested I checked the fuel trims - all looked fine and performance and economy (35/37mpg) all seemed good to me over the 700 miles I did in the car between MOT & retest, so was happy that did not have an injector problem.

The P0420 ( Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) code kept coming back, so together with the emissions fail, I just assumed that it was the Cat at fault.

Less than 48hrs before the retest I discovered that the post cat sensor simply wouldn't budge out of the old cat, so took the car back for retest with no post cat sensor - just filled the sensor hole in the new cat  with a suitable bolt!

Old spark plugs (NGK BKR5EYA11s) looked fine apart from the circa 2mm gap, I replaced like for like.

Going to 15w50 Mobil 1 has cut the visible oil burning at high rpm (judging by what comes out of the car when revving to 6k at standstill) so may also have helped a little bit on the emissions (HC?) 

MOT passed!!

BEFORE:
MOT: emissions 20180324
Fast Idle:
CO=7.165% (max = 0.2%)
HC=812ppm (max = 200ppm)
Lamda=0.780 (min = 0.97)
Natural Idle:
CO=5.108% (max 0.3%)

AFTER (2x manifold O2 sensors + 3 bottles of Cataclean and 50 miles later)
MOT: emissions 20180403
Fast Idle:
CO= 0.18% (max 0.2%)
HC = 153ppm (Max 200ppm)
Lambda 1.01 (0.97-1.03)
Natural Idle:
CO=0.01% (max 0.3%)

Not exactly a stellar pass, but it's still a pass and it might need a new cat next year (or might just need time for the Cataclean to get to work and the old cat to clear a bit more)... I'm still getting an O2 sensor fail on the post-cat one, but I'll sort that out this week and look at a new cat if the sensor is still flagging a fault after that.

Thanks again for all the help!

Quote from: BahnStormer on April  3, 2018, 15:34
MOT passed!!

BEFORE:
MOT: emissions 20180324
Fast Idle:
CO=7.165% (max = 0.2%)
HC=812ppm (max = 200ppm)
Lamda=0.780 (min = 0.97)
Natural Idle:
CO=5.108% (max 0.3%)

AFTER (2x manifold O2 sensors + 3 bottles of Cataclean and 50 miles later)
MOT: emissions 20180403
Fast Idle:
CO= 0.18% (max 0.2%)
HC = 153ppm (Max 200ppm)
Lambda 1.01 (0.97-1.03)
Natural Idle:
CO=0.01% (max 0.3%)

Not exactly a stellar pass, but it's still a pass and it might need a new cat next year (or might just need time for the Cataclean to get to work and the old cat to clear a bit more)... I'm still getting an O2 sensor fail on the post-cat one, but I'll sort that out this week and look at a new cat if the sensor is still flagging a fault after that.

Thanks again for all the help!

I work in QC, a pass is a pass! Mine only just sneaked through as well in December so I wouldn't lose too much sleep over it, the main cat is the only part I haven't replaced but will have to shortly I imagine.
Well done!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

B Stormer
Midlife beat me to it.
A pass is a pass.

So now that little issue is out the way.
No issue with the handbrake then? Thats a common fail on these cars.

Lets talk about sub frames, rear brakes, UJs, tyres and fresh suspension. 

Well played chap.
Now get out there and enjoy. 
Top down obviously

Quote from: Ardent on April  3, 2018, 17:26
No issue with the handbrake then? Thats a common fail on these cars.
Lets talk about sub frames, rear brakes, UJs, tyres and fresh suspension. 

in order...
I think mine had the handbrake as an advisory several times about 4yrs ago, so I assume somebody sorted that - seems fine now.
Rear subframe has some rust, but not bad... if I had somewhere to to work on it, I would have a crack at that, but I think this going to have to get done when I stump up the cash to get somebody to put a V6 in it...
Rear brakes have had "corrosion" advisories on the service notes, but I'm clearly using them enough to ensure that has been scrubbed off.... I WAS eyeing up some stock-sized Black Diamonds or may just resort to Brembo's since they'll look 100% stock and very reliable. Car isn't heavy enough to warrant big discs.
UJ - eeek! news to me!
Tyres: already done those - new Yoko's all around!
Suspension will clearly have to change before any more power/weight gets added, but that's next on the list - I'm still on original suspension and the car has been on the road since July 2007 and clocked up 60k miles.

Quote from: Ardent on April  3, 2018, 17:26
Top down obviously

ALWAYS - rain is a slight deterrent, but sub zero temperatures / lack of daylight doesn't stop me.... although I'm sure I'm going to get pulled over one day for ragging it around country roads late at night with the roof down!

Hi all. Just a quick update sensor has reduced the emissions for a pass. One happy mr2 roadster owner here.
Thanks for all your help. Most grateful.
Dave.

As the originator of the thread, you deserve a 'well done', your self.

Very pleased that you got the result.

I hope it helps others carolin. As you know not all the faults are the same solutions, but having a point in the right direction to check really does help.

Woohoo!

Good news.

Quote from: davethediscoman on April  4, 2018, 19:22
I hope it helps others carolin. As you know not all the faults are the same solutions, but having a point in the right direction to check really does help.

Thanks Dave (and all the contributors and supporters!). Dave, I was going to just leave the '2 at a garage to be looked at in a couple of weeks, but the thread you started pinged enough things in my head that made me think you had similar symptoms to mine (800+ppm on the HC and mine was 30x CO limit!), so I had a crack at it and you probably saved me well over £500 (apparently Mr T charge £150 for the diags and £210 per sensor!), not to mention getting my car back on the road a week or two earlier than it would have been...

Summary solution / initial pointers (with costs):
Stage 1: diagnose (before/after emissions fail) = £10 for the fastest and most complete solution.
Requirements:
a) £2-£7 for an ELM327 OBD2 reader off Amazon (price depends how fast you want it), about £15 if you need the Apple compatible version.
b) £0-£3 for Torque Android software (Lite/Pro) - Pro seemed to have a lot of nice sounding features, so I never tried Lite.
Action: run Torque, SAVE and clear codes, then run the car again to through a couple of cycles to see which sensors are consistently failing.
Difficulty Level 1/10 Plug in OBD2 next to right knee, pair bluetooth on your Android* phone and run an app.
*iPhone solutions are available, but just a ot more expensive and slightly more complicated - you makes yer choices
Stage 2: replace failed components (varies, £60-£170).
Requirements:
a) £7.50 22mm Lambda sensor socket = £7 (highly recommended!) - plugs into any ratched/spanner
b) Sensors, ~£55-£65 each - see thread for ideas on where to source them: I think OpieOils were the cheapest for Denso and GSF were the cheapest store that you could go into, but those were Bosch parts and relied on a 60% Easter discount, otherwise £155 each!
Actions:
"Bank 1/2 Sensor1" (top of manifold) - unclip the leads, unscrew the sensor and replace and plug in the new lead.
"Bank1 Sensor2" (post cat) - same process, but more wiring, so trace the wire from near the exhaust up to the plug near the LHS tail light and unplug, free up the wire and then it's exactly the same, albeit more awkward.
Difficult level 2/10 for "Bank 1/2 Sensor1" (top of manifold) and 2.5/10 for "Bank1 Sensor2" (post cat). You'll get a little dirty, but it's not complicated / dangerous / risky. The only difficult bit is if the sensors have become seized.

Caveats / glitches that people seem to have hit:
- you may not have an Engine Warning / Check Engine / EML light on the dash if some parasite has sabotaged this previously. Usually checking that the light comes on for a couple of seconds as you turn the ignition on is enough, although apparently some people wire these to the battery and all sorts to hide that warning.... grrr.... just use an OBD2 reader to get the actual story.
- if you have the OBD2 adapter in when you first turn on the ignition, you can get a flickering ABS light. "Fix": ignition off, OBD2 adapter out, ignition on, OBD2 back in...  note: may cause mild panic and a certain level of "WTF" incredulity if the first time you see this is after you've changed the first sensor, no idea how I know this
- O2 sensors stuck/seized in manifold/exhaust: I used WD40 "Penetrating Spray" before attempting any of mine and it's only 60k miles / 10yrs old and at least one was aftermarket, so my manifold ones came out easily, but likely to be an issue for 15+yr old cars on original sensors! My lower cat one was a real pain... I did the write-up with the job 95% done, but fell at the final hurdle and had to re-assemble it all.... TIP: don't bother with the sensor socket adapter for the post-cat sensor - it is almost essential for the top two, but actually makes the job MORE DIFFICULT for the last one - a fairly long 22mm spanner (£7 from Halfords / £4 if you reserve it online first) did the job almost immediately. Or go slightly overkill and get a breaker bar, etc as per Carolyn's recommendation But honestly, I don't think that would have helped due to the longer socket that I was using.
- if your car has been running with failed sensors (likely very rich) for a while, you may have to run some Cataclean to help clear all that fuel residue out of the cat. One bottle per 15 litres of petrol, so £45 for 3 bottle if you've just filled up the tank (yes, me again!)
- not so much a glitch, just a tip - aside from one v stiff sensor socket, the clips on the cable are the most "difficult" (fiddly) bit. Not sure if everybody's clips will be the same as mine, as somebody else had mentioned needing a screw driver, which confused me for a while.... but mine all had a plastic pinch mechanism where you had to squeeze the back of the plug to release it: so look you can see it: LHS manifold sensor cable on mine as it was clearly visible there (push from the top), after that every clip was the same, but with a different orientation: from the bottom for the other manifold and from the LHS behind the tail light on the side of the fluid container.
- bear in mind that even after you've replaced all the sensors, etc.... you may still need a new cat... sorry.

Short posts also available on request.... 

edit#1: RHS/LHS correction, thanks CTM!
edit#2: typo's and post-cat / spanner saga update.

Also want to mention, if you get a code come up for the O2 sensor relating to the O2 heater circuit - but the sensor itself is showing voltage when the engine is up to temp, you can bridge the heater circuit with a 15ohm 25w resistor. The heater is only used to get the O2 sensor up to temp when cold, when its up to temp it turns off - I believe all 3 heaters have gone on mine so I have the EML on.

Only mentioning this as after mid May with the new MOT the EML light must come on then go off when the engine is started - I need to get this sorted on mine.

Quote from: BahnStormer on April  5, 2018, 11:39

Quote from: davethediscoman on April  4, 2018, 19:22
I hope it helps others carolin. As you know not all the faults are the same solutions, but having a point in the right direction to check really does help.

Thanks Dave (and all the contributors and supporters!). Dave, I was going to just leave the '2 at a garage to be looked at in a couple of weeks, but the thread you started pinged enough things in my head that made me think you had similar symptoms to mine (800+ppm on the HC and mine was 30x CO limit!), so I had a crack at it and you probably saved me well over £500 (apparently Mr T charge £150 for the diags and £210 per sensor!), not to mention getting my car back on the road a week or two earlier than it would have been...

Summary solution / initial pointers (with costs):
Stage 1: diagnose (before/after emissions fail) = £10 for the fastest and most complete solution.
Requirements:
a) £2-£7 for an ELM327 OBD2 reader off Amazon (price depends how fast you want it), about £15 if you need the Apple compatible version.
b) £0-£3 for Torque Android software (Lite/Pro) - Pro seemed to have a lot of nice sounding features, so I never tried Lite.
Action: run Torque, SAVE and clear codes, then run the car again to through a couple of cycles to see which sensors are consistently failing.
Difficulty Level 1/10 Plug in OBD2 next to right knee, pair bluetooth on your Android* phone and run an app.
*iPhone solutions are available, but just a ot more expensive and slightly more complicated - you makes yer choices
Stage 2: replace failed components (varies, £60-£170).
Requirements:
a) £7.50 22mm Lambda sensor socket = £7 (highly recommended!) - plugs into any ratched/spanner
b) Sensors, ~£55-£65 each - see thread for ideas on where to source them: I think OpieOils were the cheapest for Denso and GSF were the cheapest store that you could go into, but those were Bosch parts and relied on a 60% Easter discount, otherwise £155 each!
Actions:
"Bank 1/2 Sensor1" (top of manifold) - unclip the leads, unscrew the sensor and replace and plug in the new lead.
"Bank1 Sensor2" (post cat) - same process, but more wiring, so trace the wire from near the exhaust up to the plug near the RHS tail light and unplug, free up the wire and then it's exactly the same, albeit more awkward.
Difficult level 2/10 for "Bank 1/2 Sensor1" (top of manifold) and 2.5/10 for "Bank1 Sensor2" (post cat). You'll get a little dirty, but it's not complicated / dangerous / risky.

Caveats / glitches that people seem to have hit:
- you may not have an Engine Warning / Check Engine / EML light on the dash if some parasite has sabotaged this previously. Usually checking that the light comes on for a couple of seconds as you turn the ignition on is enough, although apparently some people wire these to the battery and all sorts to hide that warning.... grrr.... just use an OBD2 reader to get the actual story.
- if you have the OBD2 adapter in when you first turn on the ignition, you can get a flickering ABS light. "Fix": ignition off, OBD2 adapter out, ignition on, OBD2 back in...  note: may cause mild panic and a certain level of "WTF" incredulity if the first time you see this is after you've changed the first sensor, no idea how I know this
- O2 sensors stuck/seized in manifold/exhaust: I used WD40 "Penetrating Spray" before attempting any of mine and it's only 60k miles / 10yrs old and at least one was aftermarket, so mine came out easily, but likely to be an issue for 15+yr old cars on original sensors!
- if you car has been running with failed sensors (likely very rich) for a while, you may have to run some Cataclean to help clear all that fuel residue out of the cat. One bottle per 15 litres of petrol, so £45 for 3 bottle if you've just filled up the tank (yes, me again!)
- bear in mind that even after you've replaced all the sensors, you may still need a new cat... sorry.

Short posts also available on request.... 

Well played.
That is my post of the day and embodies the spirit of this club.

Quote from: BahnStormer on April  5, 2018, 11:39

Quote from: davethediscoman on April  4, 2018, 19:22
I hope it helps others carolin. As you know not all the faults are the same solutions, but having a point in the right direction to check really does help.

Thanks Dave (and all the contributors and supporters!). Dave, I was going to just leave the '2 at a garage to be looked at in a couple of weeks, but the thread you started pinged enough things in my head that made me think you had similar symptoms to mine (800+ppm on the HC and mine was 30x CO limit!), so I had a crack at it and you probably saved me well over £500 (apparently Mr T charge £150 for the diags and £210 per sensor!), not to mention getting my car back on the road a week or two earlier than it would have been...

Summary solution / initial pointers (with costs):
Stage 1: diagnose (before/after emissions fail) = £10 for the fastest and most complete solution.
Requirements:
a) £2-£7 for an ELM327 OBD2 reader off Amazon (price depends how fast you want it), about £15 if you need the Apple compatible version.
b) £0-£3 for Torque Android software (Lite/Pro) - Pro seemed to have a lot of nice sounding features, so I never tried Lite.
Action: run Torque, SAVE and clear codes, then run the car again to through a couple of cycles to see which sensors are consistently failing.
Difficulty Level 1/10 Plug in OBD2 next to right knee, pair bluetooth on your Android* phone and run an app.
*iPhone solutions are available, but just a ot more expensive and slightly more complicated - you makes yer choices
Stage 2: replace failed components (varies, £60-£170).
Requirements:
a) £7.50 22mm Lambda sensor socket = £7 (highly recommended!) - plugs into any ratched/spanner
b) Sensors, ~£55-£65 each - see thread for ideas on where to source them: I think OpieOils were the cheapest for Denso and GSF were the cheapest store that you could go into, but those were Bosch parts and relied on a 60% Easter discount, otherwise £155 each!
Actions:
"Bank 1/2 Sensor1" (top of manifold) - unclip the leads, unscrew the sensor and replace and plug in the new lead.
"Bank1 Sensor2" (post cat) - same process, but more wiring, so trace the wire from near the exhaust up to the plug near the RHS tail light and unplug, free up the wire and then it's exactly the same, albeit more awkward.
Difficult level 2/10 for "Bank 1/2 Sensor1" (top of manifold) and 2.5/10 for "Bank1 Sensor2" (post cat). You'll get a little dirty, but it's not complicated / dangerous / risky.

Caveats / glitches that people seem to have hit:
- you may not have an Engine Warning / Check Engine / EML light on the dash if some parasite has sabotaged this previously. Usually checking that the light comes on for a couple of seconds as you turn the ignition on is enough, although apparently some people wire these to the battery and all sorts to hide that warning.... grrr.... just use an OBD2 reader to get the actual story.
- if you have the OBD2 adapter in when you first turn on the ignition, you can get a flickering ABS light. "Fix": ignition off, OBD2 adapter out, ignition on, OBD2 back in...  note: may cause mild panic and a certain level of "WTF" incredulity if the first time you see this is after you've changed the first sensor, no idea how I know this
- O2 sensors stuck/seized in manifold/exhaust: I used WD40 "Penetrating Spray" before attempting any of mine and it's only 60k miles / 10yrs old and at least one was aftermarket, so mine came out easily, but likely to be an issue for 15+yr old cars on original sensors!
- if you car has been running with failed sensors (likely very rich) for a while, you may have to run some Cataclean to help clear all that fuel residue out of the cat. One bottle per 15 litres of petrol, so £45 for 3 bottle if you've just filled up the tank (yes, me again!)
- bear in mind that even after you've replaced all the sensors, you may still need a new cat... sorry.

Short posts also available on request.... 

Good work! One minor query, you state post cat plugs in near RHS tail light, shouldn't that read LHS tail light?


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Quote from: Ardent on April  5, 2018, 22:37

Quote from: BahnStormer on April  5, 2018, 11:39
[BIG SUMMARY]...Short posts also available on request.... 

Well played.
That is my post of the day and embodies the spirit of this club.

Thanks - worth noting there were a few corrections after your quote.... I'm very worried/impressed that CTM actually read through the entire post, despite clearly knowing how to do this with his eyes closed and spotted that I'd directed people to fish around behind the wrong (RHS) tail light... hopefully people would have found the sensor (very visible from under the rear of the car) and and realised the typo/brain-fade, but worth correcting!

Removing the last sensor.  As you're going to replace it:

a) get your self a breaker bar (very handy for many jobs)

b) get yourself a plumber's torch (very handy for many jobs) and heat the hell out of the socket in the cat.  Undo while still hot.

Don't consider the cost of the tools as 'cost of the job' but rather a bonus addition to your toolkit.  That's, rubbish. of course, but you'll feel better.

Quote from: BahnStormer on April  6, 2018, 07:20

Quote from: Ardent on April  5, 2018, 22:37

Quote from: BahnStormer on April  5, 2018, 11:39
[BIG SUMMARY]...Short posts also available on request.... 

Well played.
That is my post of the day and embodies the spirit of this club.

Thanks - worth noting there were a few corrections after your quote.... I'm very worried/impressed that CTM actually read through the entire post, despite clearly knowing how to do this with his eyes closed and spotted that I'd directed people to fish around behind the wrong (RHS) tail light... hopefully people would have found the sensor (very visible from under the rear of the car) and and realised the typo/brain-fade, but worth correcting!

Hey, if someone's taken the time to produce something like that the least I can do is take the time to read it, I was tired and it had me second guessing myself! As for doing it with my eyes closed, if you see my car in the flesh you'd think that's how I do everything [emoji23]


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Quote from: Carolyn on April  6, 2018, 07:34
Removing the last sensor.  As you're going to replace it:

a) get your self a breaker bar (very handy for many jobs)

b) get yourself a plumber's torch (very handy for many jobs) and heat the hell out of the socket in the cat.  Undo while still hot.

Don't consider the cost of the tools as 'cost of the job' but rather a bonus addition to your toolkit.  That's, rubbish. of course, but you'll feel better.

Just as a supplemental to this, I got a two heat, electric heat gun for tasks like these. A bit more user friendly if you're not confident with fire around your vehicle and the lower setting is good for shrink tubing, warming up stick-backed plastic etc. Around £20 if I remember rightly.


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Thanks for the breaker bar tips, etc - not sure that would have worked though: I got hold of a fairly long handled wrench for the 22mm sensor socket, but it was the offset created by the socket that meant I was struggling to put much torque through the line of the bolt cleanly (if that makes sense?)...

A regular (non-offset) spanner was perfect: turns out that it should have been £4 if I'd just reserved it in advance!! (http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/halfords-advances-combination-spanner).

I tried the open-sided part initially, but the round one gave me a lot more options in terms of angles and a lot more confidence that it was always on cleanly and I wasn't going to slip and round off the sensor! Since it's 22mm, I was able to thread the wire through easily and get it out in literally less than a minute... I figure that the regular wrench with the 22mm sensor socket was enough torque for putting it back on, so I didn't bother doing the same for the new one.

edit: ('cos I'm actually getting embarrassed about the extent of my thread hijack - probably the most gratuitous I've ever seen, let alone done!!)

Quote from: Call the midlife! on April  6, 2018, 07:55Just as a supplemental to this, I got a two heat, electric heat gun for tasks like these. A bit more user friendly if you're not confident with fire around your vehicle and the lower setting is good for shrink tubing, warming up stick-backed plastic etc. Around £20 if I remember rightly.

Thanks, I'll bear that in mind for future: I have a VERY destructive family, so replace screen on phones and tablets on a regular basis, so I already have one of these - didn't think to use it on the exhaust though!!

Quote from: Carolyn on April  6, 2018, 07:34
Don't consider the cost of the tools as 'cost of the job' but rather a bonus addition to your toolkit.  That's, rubbish. of course, but you'll feel better.

"The Job" vs the cost of doing it elsewhere was the way to justify buying the tools, the way I look at it, the costs would have been:
1) Mr T:  2 week delay, £150 (diags) + 3x £210 (sensors fitted) + £12 (taxi) = £792
2) Local Indy:  2 week delay, ~£400 (best guess is half what Mr T charge).
3) Me: roughly one week faster, £52 + 2x £62 (sensors from GSF) + £7.50 (22mm socket) + £7 (OBD2 scanner) + £3 (Torque Pro) + £20 (unused wrench handle, but will be useful later) + £7 (22mm spanner) = £220.50 + some petrol money... so probably half as much as an indy and well under a third of the price of Mr T.... plus I learnt a lot, fixed the broken EML light that Mr T missed in their £350 "Full 60k mile Service" AND I got 3 new tools and 2 cool diagnostics tools that will be useful for years to come. I could have done it at least £50 cheaper if I hadn't bought the extra wrench and been a little less impatient/less naive with some of it (pickup from GSF vs waiting for OpieOils, not pre-ordering my Halfords pickups, etc.... plus a few other rushed orders).

I'd be happy to come along and help anybody else within a few of hours drive of N Surrey / SW London (for the approx cost of petrol money*, so the missus doesn't tear me a new one) - I'm happy to travel out early one weekend morning and help with the fitting, if you don't fancy having a crack at this yourselves, but I'd really encourage people to have a go: at very least, £10 on the OBD2 scanner and Torque Pro is a good investment in ANY car ownership and then you can order the sensors and decide if you'd rather buy the tools and try for yourself or fund my morning drive Honestly: £7.50 for the 22mm sensor socket and £4 for the 22mm spanner and just have a go... with the right advice and support (Carolyn, CTM, Scotte, shnazzle and Ardent to name a few!) and the right tools (detailed in this thread, this post and the summary), this is NOT a difficult job!

*hell, if you've got a nice country lane or A-road route from J10-J12 (M25) to your place, I'll do it for free... mostly 'cos there's a decent chance I'd be going past your house one morning anyway just "exploring"...

final edit: I've been tracking my fuel economy closely for the last few months: average 27mpg.... mostly ragging it on country lanes, with some pootling.... latest tank (after the O2 sensors are fixed, but all country lanes)..... and I got >34mpg?!? Although that drops to 30mpg if I count the 4.5 litres of Cataclean as fuel.... still, at least 10% better than I was getting...

Final, final edit (possibly):
The six tank-fulls before I fixed the O2 sensor issue: 27.7mpg
The six tank-fulls after I fixed the O2 sensor issue: 33.6mpg

This is all relative, but this is for my daily(ish) commute: ~30 miles of a mixture of idling along in traffic and then a proper B-road cross-country thrash, constantly braking to ~30mph for tight/unsighted corners and back up to 50/60mph before standing on the brakes again and heel-and-toeing back down to 2nd ready to launch out of the next corner, mostly 2nd/3rd gear, sometimes 4th. If I drove the Audi like this, I'd be getting ~15mpg. ~30mpg is possible if I drive like a Saint, but I think I'd be getting >40mpg if I drove the '2 with that much self control!