Painting car parts (eyebrows, TTE inserts, TRD bodykit)

Started by rtbiscuit, February 4, 2007, 12:21

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rtbiscuit

well i have started on several other threads gathering people vast amounts of knowledge in order to do this. so i thought i should share the process as i go along, sort of produce a photo guide.

i shall post the pics on here as i go and build the guide at the same time.

any one who wants to have input is most welcome and hopefully this should encourage more people to do it and have a go, the results are very rewarding.

(before i start this, this instructions are mine and also those who have helped on other threads. if you choose to do this and it all goes wrong, i am not responsible, i am not a proffessional sprayer and have learnt by practice. if you are unsure practice first on a piece of scrap, then if you feel confident try it on your car part. i have to say this you know the procedure with disclaimers and the like.)

1. step one get the car parts you want to spray, i bought the very rare TAN eyebrows (replica of the DAMD ones) and i also managed to get hold of a set of TTE rear bumper inserts.





2. in order to paint i needed some. spray cans were my option as i don't have a compressor and spray gun (yet   s:) :) s:)  ) spoke to many people on here and was instantly recommended to these people

 m https://www.paints4u.com/ m

they are excellent, match any colour you want vast selection and there spray cans are far more useable than any, very good even delivery, with no dribbles. i also bought a spray gun handle which makes things very easy.

3.  what did i get:
- a rubber glove - to hold items with and stop grease transfer.
- grade 600 wet and dry - preps the surface for painting.
- methelyated spirits - degrease the surface before painting.
- plastic primer - helps the paint flex with the part when dry.
- grey primer - need for blue cars helps with colour - found out after ordered that you can get the plastic primer in grey. (i prefer to use both).
- grade 2000 wet and dry - to use between the coats to maintain a smooth surface.
- clear laquer - the paint is a 2 part it requires laquering to finish the colour and protect it, not all paints use this but it does help.

would also recommend a respirator, minimum requirement a dust mask. i use a 2 filter respirator, which you can chang the filters, gives a good seal. spray with out one at your own risk. i forgot to put mine on at the beginning, and it was only once i started seeing pink elephants that i put it on.

4. first step is to prep the items, i used 600 grade wet and dry, filled my utility sink with about 3 inches of water and gave them a good rub down. this will remove any lumps or bumps and give a smooth finish. i wore my rubber glove on one hand to hold the items to stop putting any grease on the item. washing as you go remove all the water and powder created.

5. i let them dry and then gave them a wipe down with a kitchen towel and meths. and then let dry. this will remove any left over dust and make sure the surface is grease free so the paint will stick properly.

6. i then set up my spraying area in the garage. lots of newspaper. i also cut a load of wooden blocks i used these to rest the items on. i learnt along time ago if you put items straight on to paper and spray the paper sticks to the item makes a horrible mess.



7. first spray - i gave the items several coats of plastic primer, mine was clear with silvery bits in. i gave it between 2 or 3 to make sure i had even coverage. this stuff is very runny, so make sure you maintain 30cm distance and use light coats, keep the gun moving and dont stop over an item. i recommend to start spraying just off to one side before you move across the item. not to start ontop of the item, incase you get more paint at the start.

8. the plastic primer drys quite quickly about 15 min between coats, i set up a small heater in the garage to keep the temperature up. most spray paint dry times are dependant on ambient temperature. if its below room temp your'll take longer to dry. paint can also do funny things when drying in the cold, its more likely to go into runs or dry and crack.

9. second spray - i left the plastic primer for about an hour before the next stage. This time i moved on to the grey primer, the spraying principals remain the same. build up lots of light coats, start off the item and then move across. nice steady movements, dont stop on the item. leave about 30 min between coats. i put on about 3 coats.





10. at this point i had finished the priming, and was late to go out, which was a good point to allow it all to dry. left over night to harden off.

11. got up in the morning to check my handy work, still looked good. so next step was to prep for the colour. smooth surfaces alweays give the best finish so first task was back on with the rubber glove, and now to use the 2000 grade paper. i used this dry, as recommended by kanujunkie. giving a very light sand this stuff is so fine it just takes the edge off the paint and smooths it all out. i then gave it a light wipe down with a clean cloth to remove the dust.

12. third spray - this is where i'm up to at the moment, hence i'm writing this while i wait for the first colour coat to dry. but again the spraying principal remains the same. light coats about 1 hour apart. (thats how i do it) others recommend one coat a day, with a light sand between. i will put on the coats and sand between stages. but its up to you how you do this.





13. leave over night preferably in a warm place while the paint hardens off.

14. back to the sink, with your wet and dry 2000 grade. and give it the lightest of sandings in the water preping it ready for laquer. leave it to dry, then wipe down gently with a soft fiberless cloth.

15. back to the spray both this time swapping to laquer, smae technique, leaving 15 min or so between coats, build up about 4 layers. make sure its an even coat. and then leave for 24 hours to harden off, preferably somwhere warm.










16. i would leave it longer before doing this next stage but the option is to now gently polish this up. when i get to this point i shall give you my recommendations. if someone reads this before i get there and has some then please recommend away.

i would say something like a wax or a t cut to polish it up, but check against the car first.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

loadswine

#1
Looking good so far mate.  s:) :) s:)
No Roadster any more, Golf 7.5 GTi Performance

Anonymous

#2
how much do you charge   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

rtbiscuit

#3
well the paints cost me about £40 but that was to do eyebrows and grill inserts. so say £20 for eyebrow paint (masqarer if you like)

wait and see what the colour match is like first.

would say yes, but i'm not a sprayer by trade, and if i screw mine up, then thats my fault. i'd feel really bad if my work wasn't to someones liking. i'm happy with my progress.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

Anonymous

#4
so your services are available   s:?: :?: s:?:  

look my eyebrows are already cracked anyways but im laid back Rich, so it wouldnt stress me out if it werent right and like you say youre not a sprayer by trade! you might even do a better job than the pro's   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

rtbiscuit

#5
let me think about it!
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

Anonymous

#6
no pressure mate!

whatever you say im cool   s8) 8) s8)    s:D :D s:D

philster_d

#7
I suggest you mask up a larger area.

I did my rev 6 rears on news paper and the paint dust got everywhere!

rtbiscuit

#8
its in a safe corner, but there is a sofa and other things under dust sheets behind, as well as a fridge.

i'v doe this in ashed before and everything had a pinky red tinge to it.

i also sprayed some models on my uni kitchen floor, it wasn't noticable until i lifted the news paper that i had also sprayed most of the kitchen floor. spent the night using white spirits to try and lift it.

as far as i know to this day that floor is still pink   s:D :D s:D
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

Anonymous

#9
So far so good Rich. Patience is a virtue mate.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anonymous

#10
Quote from: "simontan75"So far so good Rich. Patience is a virtue mate.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
30 seconds after i met her she wasnt!  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

philster_d

#11
I primered the microwave and when I moved a vase there was a black ring on the worktop    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

aaronjb

#12
 s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Here's a tip - if you're using a heater to keep the area warm, don't use a fan heater..

I turned mine blue and nearly set fire to it - it's amazing to see how much paint ends up as dry particulates in the air, which promptly gets sucked through the fan heater and glues itself to the elements  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:   (Another reason you should be wearing a mask, of course!)
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

rtbiscuit

#13
well here are the finished articles





will post up some of my rear soon
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

Anonymous

#14
Quote from: "rtbiscuit"will post up some of my rear soon

ooh eerrr mrs   s:? :? s:?

rtbiscuit

#15
was just about to add to this thread and noticed his last post on it.   s:cry: :cry: s:cry:  

anyways got bored today and had some spare paint lying around so decided to tidy up my Front Strut Brace.

it was looking rather tired and messy its a c-one, but as some have noticed i have a trd theme going so i have sprayed it white and have a trd logo coming to stick on the front.

well i have just finished and it is looking rather sexy. once the laquer has hardened and i have the logo on i shall post up pics as well as the rear of the car as well.

  s:?: :?: s:?:  also should this be moved to the reference section as it is a guide to painting.    s:idea: :idea: s:idea:
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

Chris_h

#16
Looking good Rich,

Did you buy The Times solely for this purpose? we know you usually read the Sunday Sport   s:D :D s:D
ex 02 Black, 00 Silver, 53 Black, 03 in silver - then s2000, civic type r, mini jcw, civic type r, Alfa Brera, z4 si coupe, now m135i. Still miss the 2 and will have another one someday....

rtbiscuit

#17
times or observer, sometimes the economist. all give a nice balanced view of life. don't read the papers that often. but prefer the broadsheets.

can't stand the sun, star, mail etc. very narrow minded views.

but thats a whole other topic thread.

will get pics up when all complete.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

rtbiscuit

#18
well bordom has struck aain and the painting bug has come back. this time its the TRD body kit, have got ll the parts second hand and will post up pics as i go.

this guide is meant to be a help for people who want to paint, and i suppose has really documented most of my painting exploits.

have lots of other pics, but thought it best to postup a progressive one of the corner needing mst work.

this first pic is the corner that i have repaired, it was quiet badly cracked, and all the white that you can see is the filler i used after i sanded it all down. forgot to take one at the beginning.

word of advice, if you have any hair line cracks take a knife to them and oen them up, you cannot fill hair line cracks so the tip isto make them bigger by removing some of the old paint.



this second one is of it after i had painted with the grey plastic primer and and a secn coat of ordinary primer.



this final one is of the colour going on. there are some nasty reflections on it as in the flesh it is spotless.

current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

northernalex

#19
wow rich.. nice work.. I know where to come for my spraying now  s:) :) s:)
evileye_xc said:
"I already saw it. I\'m hoping to gain the record for the \'Person who is most quoted in signatures"

rtbiscuit

#20
still trying to perfect my laquering, painting i easy the laquering is an art form, i still get the odd run, but its allpart and pacel of the learning process.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

aaronjb

#21
You're getting quite good at that I think, Mr RT..

Are you still using rattle cans?  Thought about investing in something like this (Apollo Spray Mate)?
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

rtbiscuit

#22
would be tempted but not got much more spraying left to do.

still not getting my laquering technique right, have done the front and most of it is absolutely perfect, but i got 2 runs which has pissed me off a littlethey follw one of the lines of the kit so might get away with it.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

MR-S

#23
In my experience, I find laquering the most difficult part also. A couple of tries and Painting is relatively easy just remember, less is best. You cannot rush this.
The same applies to the laquering, keep the coats really light but don't wait for it to be touch dry, do another coat when the previous coat is still tacky (Tacky mind you, not wet). This will thicken up the laquer coat no end. The trick to that showroom finish is to use a fine polishing compound and a Mop - basically a foam pad that attaches to an adjustable speed grinder.
A small bit of polishing compound.
Low speed on the mop
LOTS of water for lubricant (otherwise the compund may burn the finish)

In no time you'll have a finish that's like a mirror.
TRD lip kit, Che Headers, TRD rear Brace, NGK Plugs, TRD oil filter, Facelift side Vents, Key hole covers.

rtbiscuit

#24
can rubbing compound be used on an item painted months ago that has been on a car?

also i found if you go to light on the laquer you get instant orange peel.

haven't tried the apply while tacky method though.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

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