Retrofit DRL thoughts.

[wbarrwebster]

Morning,

Just wondered what the general feeling about retrofitting Daylight Running Lights now that they will be standard fit on on UK cars as of 2012.

I've ordered a set for the Accord and been Googling wiring diagrams.

Regards,

B

[Peter Wright]

Morning,

Just wondered what the general feeling about retrofitting Daylight Running Lights now that they are standard fit on on UK cars as of 2011.

I've ordered a set for the Accord and been Googling wiring diagrams.

Regards,

B

Funny that you have posted this, as I have just bought a set to fill those horible little holes on the pre facelift, has been too cold to fit them at the mo but will post the pics in a couple of weeks time, obviously some people will not like them, but so what ! at least I will have a brand new car !
 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0258434741 m
Fitting the wiring may be a problem that will have to be overcome  m http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/LED_ ... KIT_LEDDRL m
Pete

[*andy*]

US roadsters have DRL as standard. Looking through the wiring diagrams though I think it would be very difficult (That's if you could even get the parts) to retrofit OEM DRL as it looks like there are a number of relays involved.

It would be fairly simple to wire in some of the aftermarket DRL's but personally think they would look very stuck on and out of place

[wbarrwebster]

Fitting the wiring may be a problem that will have to be overcome  m http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/LED_ m  ... KIT_LEDDRL
Pete

Hi,

Yeah, This is also available on Ebay.  I'll see how I feel when the lights arrive, I have sourced a diagram using a relay of which I have several in the back of the garage.  There was a guy that retrofitted them on an Audi or Golf using the Fog light aperture covers, looked OEM.

IMHO I reckon these would look good on the Two, as you say, in those pre face slots.

Can you update me as to your progess....maybe some pics.

Thanks,

B

[*andy*]

Wiring up the led running lights will be an easy job. With the kit suggested you just need to wire one input wire to an ignition live, then one to an earth, and then one to a wire on the headlights (which will turn off the DRL with headlights). Then connect your LED DRL's to the kit and done!

Which holes are you referring too by the way? The two at the bottom of the bumper at the edges!?

[wbarrwebster]

Wiring up the led running lights will be an easy job. With the kit suggested you just need to wire one input wire to an ignition live, then one to an earth, and then one to a wire on the headlights (which will turn off the DRL with headlights). Then connect your LED DRL's to the kit and done!
Which holes are you referring too by the way? The two at the bottom of the bumper at the edges!?

I might go with the kit, but as I said I have a couple of spare relays, so why spend more of my poor man's pay when I don't have to!  s:D s:D

I'm thinking the two slots at the bottom but I haven't investigated the issue i.e. what's behind them, do they cool the front discs?

Anyway, it always assumes I can get them in there and that it looks OEM!
Will be anxious to see how Pete gets on.  

Regards,

B

[*andy*]

True, there isn't much to that kit really!

Yes I guess you could probably hide them quite well in those gaps actually! I'm pretty sure they aren't functional either as there would be no path for air to directly reach the brakes (from what I remember anyway) but someone might be able to clear that up better!

[Peter Wright]

Will be anxious to see how Pete gets on.

They came 2 months ago, nice fit with enough space for air to  flow through the gaps, I offered them to the car and wired one up, not obtrusive at all but very noticable when lit, came in silver so the next job is to spray them body colour, order the wiring kit as after lot of research it is the only way to go, will not be attempting to fit untill the weather warms up , will post some pics then
Pete

[wbarrwebster]

Hi,

Further update...
Still awaiting the supposed kit....that will work the DRLs and extinguish the headlights.

Meantime, I have come across this suggestion relay connections :
30   to Ign.
87A to Pos on DRLs.
86   to Headlight wire.
85   to Earth
Obviously the alternative  wire on the DRL will have to be earthed.
There is a suggestion that the 87A wire to the DRLs will require some form of external or internal current regulator which frankly I don't understand.

If I read this right, the DRLs will go off when the headlight comes on...great, but it begs the questions...

Do you attached the wire to the dip or the main beam?
If I attach to the Main Beam and the Dip, surely I'll have to put diodes in line.
The DRLs will go out when you flash someone, no huge issue but a thought.

I meant have a crack at this Sunday on the Accord...

Any comments would be appreciated...

B.

[Anonymous]

i would say side light for wiring as it is on with high and low beam. the voltage should be fine

[cclarke99]

Although it's not so easy to find the wires, it might be better to connect in further from the actual lights themselves, thus avoiding diodes, etc. Unfortunately my diagram is for a US car with DRL, but you should have a green wire from the tail light relay to the lights and a red/yellow from the column switch to the headlight relay.  

You'll need a changeover relay. Use the green wire as the power (connect to relay common contact ). Connect the red/yellow that goes to the headlight relay to the relay coil and the other coil contact to earth.  Wire the N/C contact (sorry I'm a bit rushed so can't look up the correct number) to the DRLs. Then with sidelights on, the power will be supplied through the N/C relay contact to the DRLs. With headlights on, the relay switches on disconnecting the DRLs.

I can supply a circuit, and if you want a different switching logic to that I have described let me know.

[wbarrwebster]

First of all thanks for your interest and input...

As I mentioned I am first of all experimenting on the Accord....
The saga so  far....DRLs fitted   on the bumper (in front of the foglight hole covers.) Incidentally, there are Regs on where the DRLs go, height from road and the usual bulls...which, needless to state, I am complying with.

Have wired the Positives and the Negatives together separately, Negative wires have been grounded, Positive wires awaiting new 5 pin Relay. The Wire that will earth the Relay is in place.
Apart from obtaining a new 5 pin relay, the only action required is:  

1: Wire from the ignition to relay  ( on the accord I can piggy back on the Headlight leveler)
2: Wire from the Sidelight to the relay.

Assuming I don't screw it up and am happy with the out come, I'll have a crack at the 2

Would CClarke 99 kindly confirm relay pin numbers on his proposals....unfortunately, I am hands on, self made auto electrical, need it kept simple.........thanks Clarky .

Ora best

B

[cclarke99]

This is the pin outs for my suggestion

Red/yellow wire (headlights) to pin 85
Earth to pin 86

Green wire (sidelights) to pin 87A
DRLs to 30

[wbarrwebster]

Hi,

Now got the DRLs working on the Accord.
I bought a small box of tricks from Eastern Europe via Ebay  ( about the 1/3 of the size of a match box.)..., connected the 5NO of wires, works a treat, although I hate the look of my clumsy connections if I'm honest.
Lights on with Ign, off with Low beams.
Next step is purchase of new set of  DRLs for the two and wire up as per Mr Clarke's suggestions.

Rock on!!

B

[wbarrwebster]

Although it's not so easy to find the wires, it might be better to connect in further from the actual lights themselves, thus avoiding diodes, etc. Unfortunately my diagram is for a US car with DRL, but you should have a green wire from the tail light relay to the lights and a red/yellow from the column switch to the headlight relay.  

You'll need a changeover relay. Use the green wire as the power (connect to relay common contact ). Connect the red/yellow that goes to the headlight relay to the relay coil and the other coil contact to earth.  Wire the N/C contact (sorry I'm a bit rushed so can't look up the correct number) to the DRLs. Then with sidelights on, the power will be supplied through the N/C relay contact to the DRLs. With headlights on, the relay switches on disconnecting the DRLs.

I can supply a circuit, and if you want a different switching logic to that I have described let me know.

Assuming it ain't too cold this weekend gonna finish the job (he says....) Also got the front pads to do on the Accord, I'm such a tight git!

Lights in place..wires  pulled through. Ideally what I need is  some comfort and confirmation that the relay pinouts are ok.

Want to use the Ign as on....and dipped/ main headlights as off...happy that the DRLs stay on with the sidelights.

Any update/comments would assist.

Cheers.

B

[2003bluecat]

I'm very interested in seeing how this turns out so thanks for the updates!

Also, pics would be nice if you can   s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:

[wbarrwebster]

Hi,

I think I'll have problem finding the various existing coloured wires so:
Think I sussed the alternative relay pinouts after a sleepless night!

See what all you auto electricians think....
5 Pin relay.
Pin 86  to ign
Pin 85 to DRLs  then to earth
Pin 30 to Dips/Headlights.
Pin 87A to earth

In basic mode DRLs light on Ign, when I switch  Dips/Headlights on, it energises Relay which switches Pin 87A to 87 which is not connected, i.e. extinquishing DRLs.

Comments welcome.

B

[wbarrwebster]

Ok job done!

If you're thinking about it, I'll give you a steer, bear in mind I have the lower Toyota spoiler at the front although I still have the "slots" on both sides.

If you do it my way, you will require:

The LEDs, I paid about £15, there are more expensive ones out there although I always wonder why the E rated ones are HUGELY more expensive. Most of them are about 15cm which was an ideal size.

You will require:
10 Cable ties.
10 Maplin type wire holders that stick the wires to the car body.
A 5 pin relay.
A cheap metal coat hanger.
PVC tape
At least 7x 12v Female electrical connectors.
At least 2x 12v round (the ones with the whole in the middle) electrical connectors
In line fuse with 5amp Fuse.
At least 2x 12v 3m type piggy back connectors.
Quality outdoor double sided tape if your LEDs don't come with any.
Circuit tester.
About 5 meters of half decent 12v wire.

1: Take all the plastics under the front bonnet off including the spare wheel cubby.
2: Offer up your Leds to the slots ensure they sit comfortably.
3: Assuming there is wire with the Leds, tape the end of the wire to the straightened coat hanger and push the end through the slot in the lower front.
4: Stick you head under the bonnet, if you move the coat hanger about you will eventually see and be able to grab the hanger with the wire.
5: With the wire free from the hanger I ran the nearside under the rad and brought it up to near the rear of the offside front light.
6:  Repeat the process with the hanger on the Offside slot bringing the wires together near the offside front light.
7: Split the 2 sets of wires putting the negatives and the positives together.
8: Crimp a female connector onto the two positives and a round connector onto the 2 negatives.
9 : There is a bolt holding a bracket on the frame on the lower inner wing ( there ain't that many, so you'll spot it!) undo the bolt and attach your negative wires onto it, also mount your Relay holder onto it as well...tighten it up.
10: Push the two joined crimped  positive wires on to pin 87A
11: Take the headlight connector off the back of the Offside front light, it can be a pig to get off but squeeze the the ends and it should come away.
12: Use a piggy back connector on to the Red and Blue wire (use the circuit tester make sure it's the dipped beams), it's quite a heavy wire so confirm your attached piggybacked  wire is biting into the dipped beam wire.
13: Crimp a female connector onto the end of the above attached wire and push it onto relay pin.85
14  Crimp one female connector to one  both end of a 30cm piece of wire and crimp  a round connector on the other end, push one end onto relay pin 86 take the other end to the bunch of existing earth wires just by the brake servo, undo one of the bolts and attach your round connector to the earthing bolt.
15: Crimp a female connector to a piece of wire about about 90cms long ( it has to run from the relay all the way round  to the windscreen wiper motor on the bulkhead. Push the female connector onto Relay pin 30 the other end has to be piggy backed on to the top middle wire (blue with white flecks ) on the Wiper motor ..Put your circuit tester on it confirm it energises on ignition.    
16: All wires should now be connected to relay :Wiper motor to Pin 30. DRL Positives to 87A, Headlight wire to Pin 85, Earth wire to Pin 86..Pin 87 is unused. With all relative wires attached,  slip Relay onto holder as referenced in 9.
17: Almost forgot, pull the backing paper off the adhesive on the lights and site them in the slots ensuring the wires are not caught up at the back.

The idea is that...on ignition the DRLs come on and will stay on with sidelights. When you switch on Dipped Beams or Headlights the DRls will go out.
I hate the piggyback connectors and you could/should think about soldering the connections, up to you.

Hope this makes sense..

I will attempt some pics if any ones interested.  ...


B

[Anonymous]

Take the pics and put the write up in the "How to" section.

[wbarrwebster]

As requested by the Paisley buddy:

[inert2k3]

Wow they look great! Nice work!

Maybe a silly question, but could you not just wire these into any live connection so that when the engine is on, the DRL's stay on, or is it law for them to be off when the dipped beam is on?

Thanks

[wbarrwebster]

Hi,

Here is hopefully a better picture, although I don't think the picture reproduction does justice to the illumination which is much brighter than the picture suggests.
As I understand it (having Goggled the issue for yawn hours) the new law relating to cars produced Jan or Feb 2011, is that the lights come on with your ignition (unless the hand brake in on) and off with your dips or main beam, although there is more info that you can have them on but at a reduced level of illumination.
To confuse the issue further if your LEds are within a certain distance to your flashers (I.E. as in the Headlight  Cocoon)they must reduce in power when you use your flashers.
There is lots of bumph on height of LEDs, distance from each other etal.

My Accord just past the MOT with the LEDs operating as the MR2.

To answer your question, yeh, you could just take a switched live from the windscreen wiper motor...and the LEDs would stay on all the time...as it's retro fit, I don't know if its actually illegal.....I assume the whole point of the Law is to make on coming traffic more visible during daylight hours, which has been made more possible nowadays with the intro of LEDs, Volvo aside.

My intention was to attempt to obviously keep within the Law, modify and make it look as OEM as possible.

Hope this helps, any probs, just shout...

B

[ChuckyBru]

Looks good - I think you've nailed the OEM look!  s:D s:D

[trickyD]

Very nice.
But no pics of it working? :/

[wbarrwebster]

Actually they are on but as I said in my original post it didn't come out well in the picture...........things have progressed since I did this.........suggest you do not buy cheap Chinese DRLs as most are not waterproof and you only end up swapping them again and again!