high power 2zz swap by jaworjawor

Started by jaworjawor, May 22, 2015, 20:26

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Jiff Lemon

#100
Wide open throttle = high vacuum.

Sound likes you'll pulling excess air in somewhere?

jaworjawor

#101
isnt it the other way? closed tb, high vacuum? But its true, I need to check the intake manfold, tb and see all holes are plugged. Also someone on other forum mentioned bend fuel line, does it happen often during 2zz swap?

Leethesparky

#102
Quote from: "jaworjawor"isnt it the other way? closed tb, high vacuum? But its true, I need to check the intake manfold, tb and see all holes are plugged. Also someone on other forum mentioned bend fuel line, does it happen often during 2zz swap?

Yeah closed throttle is high vacuum.


Czasami ludzie mówią gówno. nie pomaga

Do you have a gauge for vacuum?. It should idle at around 20 inhg. And go to full vacuum when throttle closed and engine breaking. That will show if you have a leak on your inlet

Unless I've missed it you have not mentioned if your maf is reading right. Have you checked it with obd reader?
If it is faulty or reading low. The ecu will not give the fuel.
Also have you tested the tps signal at the ecu to see if you are getting voltage there?. The tps may be wired and working but is the ecu seeing it.
MR2 mk3 2001 -- done some stuff to it.
My car thread---http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=53643
My YouTube channel---- https://www.youtube.com/c/spyderlee

jaworjawor

#103
this is important I think - after reseting ecu on cold engine everything seems fine, the car rides like a dream, very strong. But the warmer the engine, the worse  s:( :( s:(  for me it looks like the ecu cant figure out the correct afr, because in cold the ecu operates in close loop so no reading o2 sensor, then once warmed, the engine bogs. Im leaning towards the theory of wrong distance between o2 sensor and engine, could that be the case?

ps: today checked fuel line (it was ok), replaced maf for another one (cleaned before), checked injectors, and still no trouble codes. Having troubles still to read sensors on computer through obd, pcmscan reads vss, rpm, iat, water temp but thats it

jaworjawor

#104
hmm think im getting somewhere - once disconnected tps sensor, the engines revs freely like it should, even warmed up! this must be something about tps wiring

tomaky

#105
hehe circles are fun arnt they  s:) :) s:)  i spent 2 hours fitting an induction kit ran like a bag of spanners turned out id forgot to reconnect the pipe the the charcoal canister...
Westfield Seiw
Skoda octavia vrs 2ltr 245bhp petrol 2023 estate
Ex-2011 Skoda Superb Estate 170 CR Daily Driver
Ex - 2005 Porsche Cayman S
Ex - 2003 Sable
Ex- 2000 Pre FL Blue THOR RACING Ex- TURBO
Ex 2004 Blue  Roadster RIP

Anonymous

#106
Quote from: "jaworjawor"hmm think im getting somewhere - once disconnected tps sensor, the engines revs freely like it should, even warmed up! this must be something about tps wiring

  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

jaworjawor

#107
thanks guys for your replies, really apreciate your help. Turns out it is something related to tps - I listened to advice saying disconnect one sensor at a time and see what happens. Guess what - disconnected tps and the engine runs perfectly! It is very strong a rev happy, and sounds like a bike too!  s:) :) s:)

But what is strange, I suspected the tps in the first place and checked everything - the sensor, the wiring loom and it was all ok. I swapped tps wires correctly too, I uploaded pictures to forum and members confirmed it is ok. The only solution I see here is maybe they were wrong, and I swapped wrong wires? Can somebody post a picture how exactly tps wires should be on 2zz?

Paul1087

#108
 m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhgcQSR76NA m  

This you Jawor?

Looks rapid!

shnazzle

#109
God that sounds lovely
...neutiquam erro.

Anonymous

#110
It does sound good!

jaworjawor

#111
yes, thats my video I was about to post a link here  s:) :) s:)  It is just a engine sound video, not super fast sprint 0-100 but yes the car is quite fast, muuch faster then my previous 2zz corollas.

Back to my engnie troubles and how I solved it - turned out I didnt ever had to swap tps wires, this is how my tps is wired now and the car runs perfect! I doon't know why, I chased all wiring loom from ecu to tps, checked the wires, It was all connected how it should be (ecu pins e2, va vta) but it didnt want to drive, but now it is a monster




I also fitted my breastplate, it is laser cut 4mm steel, weights about 2,5kg and now driving roof-down is a pure pleasure, I didnt like the sloppiness of the car before but now it is a different animal. Also cut some more for guys in polish mr2 club






Anonymous

#112
Great work!

Is the engine run in now? What oil do you use?

What kind of power are you hoping to achieve in its current state ?

Anonymous

#113
Glad its all running correctly. Now time to enjoy

tomaky

#114
Nice one buddy!
Westfield Seiw
Skoda octavia vrs 2ltr 245bhp petrol 2023 estate
Ex-2011 Skoda Superb Estate 170 CR Daily Driver
Ex - 2005 Porsche Cayman S
Ex - 2003 Sable
Ex- 2000 Pre FL Blue THOR RACING Ex- TURBO
Ex 2004 Blue  Roadster RIP

jaworjawor

#115
nut run in yet but almost!   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  I will be using motul 300v 5w40. A friend in corolla 2zz with pipers stage 2 had 210bhp, I'm hoping for little more bacause of full pnp head and manifold work, compression bump, exhaust and intake and some minor stuff like mwr wheels, thermal gasket etc. Wish for 220 on stock ecu, that will be a lot!

Anonymous

#116
Thanks for the info.

Sounds great, keep this thread updated!

Kimitech

#117
Very nice project. Wish to get 2zz into my roadster soon.

jaworjawor

#118
breaking in is done, oil changed to motul 300v 5w40 a the next day first 1/4 mile. I managed times in range 13,5-13,7, best time was 13,4 so I was quite happy. I was faster than many muuch stronger cars like corvettes, carrera 4s, maserati, bmw m6, 370z, golf r, s3. Had similiar times like merc 45amg or 350bhp turbo miata, lexus is-f

few onboards below

ps: I dipped my wheels
















 m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WX0YRTbQK0 m
 m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-OVMj6cARM m

Anonymous

#119
nice one!

how many miles did you do on break in before changing the oil for the 5w40?

I'm planning on 500ish keeping below 5krpm, then change the oil and start bringing the revs up bit by bit. once I hit 1000miles I will be happeier

Anonymous

#120
nice one!

how many miles did you do on break in before changing the oil for the 5w40?

I'm planning on 500ish keeping below 5krpm, then change the oil and start bringing the revs up bit by bit. once I hit 1000miles I will be happeier

jaworjawor

#121
I planned 1000km, but managed to do only 800   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  This is how I always break in 2zz:
-first 100km very gently, low load, use 1000-3000rpm
-the more kmhs/miles you go the higher you rev the engine, but not full throttle/full load, just rev higher using 20-30% of throttle
-the last 200-300 kmh more load, occasionally full throttle on low gears (lower load on the engine than using higher gears and higher speeds)

The most important thing imo is to use all the rev range (except lift) but use low throttle, so its better to break in city driving, not on highway. Or you can go on highway but keep changing gears 3-4-5-6 and accelerating and slowing down all the time

Anonymous

#122
Thanks, it sounds like I'm doing it right!

Jaanus K

#123
Nice build!

About your JDM ecu. When does it go to lift and when it hits the rpm limiter?
Do you have a wideband O2 sensor?

Kimitech

#124
Holy goodness, that´s something like 4.5 - 5.0 s to 100 kph if I correctly assume from those clips. And that sound.

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