high power 2zz swap by jaworjawor

jaworjawor · July 2, 2015, 20:33

The engine fired up!

m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2JrwPc ... e=youtu.be m

Thanks for all your help guy. I checked everything as you suggested but it turned out the IACV was faulty, even though i cleaned it like 3 times before install. What's more, I had one spare lying around and it was faulty too! I believe these dont like being unused for long time. The shaft inisde IACV should rotate easily with no effort at all, mine didnt. After repair the engine started right away s:)

s:) Then after warming up the revs fell really low almost stalling the engine so I needed to adjust idle revs at the iacv, look at the photos below how to do it for reference.

The engine run smoothly now, but the ecu needs some learning yet, it has troubles to catch revs as I let off throttle the revs fall really quickly, thats because the crankshaft and flywheel alone are 6kg lighter than stock, but the ecu will adjust to that. There is still cel on dash, but I bought usdm ecu and will check the codes, then go back to jdm ecu. I havent driven the car yet because now we have problem with bleeding the coolant. The hose right after thermostat is cold, no warm water coming to radiator even though the water had almost 90 degree. Could it be faulty thermostat? Or air pocket in system? Here are photos how I connected all the hoses but I believe it is all correct

btw - I found the cap s:)

s:) of course fifteen minutes after I bought a new one from mr toyota s:)

s:) )

Anonymous · July 2, 2015, 20:36

My engine was doing that, I didn't realise it was because of he flywheel and needed to learn. I just put it down to the fact my engine was an utter pile of sshit shit sshit e! So thanks for the info

Anonymous · July 2, 2015, 20:37

By the way my thermostat was faulty and it wouldn't get hot like yours too

jaworjawor · July 2, 2015, 20:59

s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: you know how easy job is replacing the thermostat...

Anonymous · July 2, 2015, 22:20

Bit of a pain in the car I gather!

Toyota part or 3rd party?

jaworjawor · July 3, 2015, 23:15

tough day,.. 12 hours working by the car...

but it rides!!!

Getting the thermostat out is really a huge pain i n the ass, especially in cars with a/c... It tokk 1,5 hour to get it out, test it and of course - thermostat was ok! s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: turned out the plumbing to heater core was wrong, even though I did just how mwr tells to do and exactly the same as original 1zz had. Then 3-4 hours later we managed to bleed the system, we need to raise the front, then raise the back, then use pressure gun to push the water in the tank to get every little last bubble out of the system, big job! In the meantime the car went out of fuel, then after refill engine didnt want to start... After checking out everything turned out the ecu didnt even give spark, so we scratched our head for a long time... There was cel but no way to read code as it is jdm. Thank god I pought yesterday usdm ecu and the package arrived today, replacing ecu and the code was p0335 - bad crank position sensor wiring. Again I had to pull out a/c compressor and the ecu was right, somehow I broke the sensor cable. Lucky I had 2 other 2zz's around so took another sensor and the car started witohut a single light on the dash s8)

s8) s8)

s8)

I did 50 km in the car yet and still breaking in the engine, but at 4k rpm and half throttle the car i reaaly fast, much faster than original 1zz. Soon there will be some videos of engine noise as it sounds like there is a demon behind me s:D

s:D

jaworjawor · July 5, 2015, 21:12

having trouble with p0300 and p0304, also the engine pogs when pressing go pedal more than 20%, what could it be? I already changed coils, fuel pump, maf sensor and with no luck s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

Anonymous · July 5, 2015, 21:16

Injectors flow rate the same

jaworjawor · July 5, 2015, 22:24

I tested all my injectors before putting them in, 1 of 8 was bad, I chose 4 best. Colud it be bad spark? Or worse - leaking intake manifold gasket?

Anonymous · July 5, 2015, 22:42

Its possible it could be the gasket and the leak is near cylinder 4 hence the random misfire and cylinder 4 misfire. Another idea is the plugs?

jaworjawor · July 6, 2015, 18:43

ok, I swapped plugs, coils and replaced the o2 sensor, so far no trouble code (except the one for second o2 sensor not working properly, because it is gone), but there is p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected pending, in ecu memory. Also the engine still bogs at medium to high load. Could it be that the trouble code is just an effect of the bogging? What causes this, any ideas?

Anonymous · July 6, 2015, 18:49

Is this load issue more noticeable at a certain rpm. I'm wondering if the tps voltage output is off so putting fuelling out.

headcase · July 6, 2015, 19:09

what is your air intake made out of got pictures and the size.

jaworjawor · July 6, 2015, 20:02

I know it looks like there is something wrong with tps, but I swapped the wires correctly (see few posts up), also I tested the tps with multimeter and it reads linear with rotation. The intake is stock maf tube from corolla tsport and fujita cone filter, I ran the same intake in my corolla with no trouble at all. I think Ill try different positions of tps wires

Anonymous · July 6, 2015, 20:13

I wasn't suggesting the wiring but more of the part actually working

jaworjawor · July 6, 2015, 20:21

the tps itself is ok. hmm what about pcv hoses, I capped of all holes on the intake manifold and throttle body (except the ones for evap and braking assist of course) and the plumbing from head cover I run through oil catch can and then vent to atmosphere through air filter, could no pcv system cause misfire and bogging?

Escy · July 7, 2015, 00:40

Have you checked the injector o-rings? Could have possibly damaged one fitting the injectors and it's created a vacuum leak.

jaworjawor · July 7, 2015, 22:56

no the injectors are fine, I putted them with engine out and took good care with doing this. Right now there is no trouble code at all (despite p0141 or something for missing second o2 sensor). The engine still bogs at throttle applied more than 20%. I think these are the things I will try soon
-replace all coilpacks even though the misfire code doesnt come back
-install all pcv hoses back, now I have all holes at tb and im plugged and hoses open to atmosphere through occ and filters
-chceck fuel pressure even though I replaced the fuel pump from corolla ts
-reweld o2 sensor hole as right now it is between two mufflers, I think it should be near the manifold/downpipe flange

jaworjawor · July 8, 2015, 14:22

recorded a video for you guys. It seems that engine chokes only when I press the accelerator fast, when slowly and gently it revs just fine. Could it be the fuel pump?

m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gH3jkYmsz4M m

Anonymous · July 8, 2015, 14:23

Why did you change the fuel pump? Which ecu are you using ?

jaworjawor · July 8, 2015, 14:43

I changed the fuel pump because all the symptons suggest low fuel pressure. But I replaced it with another used one, that was sitting in my garage for 2 or more years so cant say this one is perfect.
Right now I'm using celica gts usdm ecu, have jdm ecu as well and the car behaves the same on that ecu

Anonymous · July 8, 2015, 14:51

Oh ok, you changed it because of problems. I think you can rule that out then. You'd be unlucky to have two fail in the same way.

Fuel filter, Partial blockage maybe? Just trying to think of things other than the pump.

Are you certain the timing is correct?

Jiff Lemon · July 8, 2015, 15:53

are you using the 1zz fuel rail?

jaworjawor · July 8, 2015, 20:17

of course 1zz rail. the timing is correct I build the engine with manual in hands

Anonymous · July 8, 2015, 23:12

So depending on your foot position / throttle position changes how it revs very interesting