My 2000 Blue MR2 1ZZ-FE--->2ZZ-GE--->K20A2 fast road/track build

[manos3003]

Here's the almost finished product  s:D s:D

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Need to change oil pump (with billet gear), sump, aux belt and alternator. Oh and the dipstick conversion, let's not forget that   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[manos3003]

Oil pump gear was changed, although  quite a pain to do so. I'm thinking to write a how-to for reference, so that no one else has to go through the same.

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Exhaust has been removed from the car, as well as airbox and main electrical connections have also been undone. Next is fluids drain (engine oil, trans oil, coolant), driveshafts, shifter and throttle cables disconnection.

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Getting there  s:D s:D

PS: If anybody's after some heatshields, do shout. I'll keep them for as long as I can store them in the garage   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[manos3003]

Fluids have been drained and driveshafts have been disconnected. Tomorrow I undo the few remaining connections and throttle and shifter cables.

On the other hand, I think I got to the bottom of my handbrake issue: sticky calipers!

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They're now stripped and off for vapour blasting. I have purchased a refurb kit from brakeparts.co.uk. Brand is Budweg, Danish I think. Anyone has any useful feedback on them?

[manos3003]

Today I got my flywheel back  s:D s:D

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Resurfaced, cleaned and balanced. I'd rather keep the stock, a 2zz with the Fidanza isn't something I fancy, I want to keep the car easier to drive.

[manos3003]

Diff swap completed, using the Toyota manual and the help of a friend to re-assemble. All I need to do is fit the shifter shaft when it arrives from Greece and the new reverse blockout, compliments of headcase.

Next on the list, is wiring loom and once all is assembled, preferrably prior to 30th of June (exhaust fitment date), I'll do my first key-on and ignition to see if everything is ok.  s:) s:)    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:  

On other news, I've just bought a K20 for an absolute steal. Time for another project next year then   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[jvanzyl]

Diff swap completed, using the Toyota manual and the help of a friend to re-assemble. All I need to do is fit the shifter shaft when it arrives from Greece and the new reverse blockout, compliments of headcase.

Next on the list, is wiring loom and once all is assembled, preferrably prior to 30th of June (exhaust fitment date), I'll do my first key-on and ignition to see if everything is ok.  s:) s:)    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:  

On other news, I've just bought a K20 for an absolute steal. Time for another project next year then   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

K20 you say?? Would be interested to know what N/A driveability comparisons are between a 2zz and K20..

[manos3003]

K20 you say?? Would be interested to know what N/A driveability comparisons are between a 2zz and K20..

I've sat shotgun in a mate's back home who's done his own. It's absolutely insane! Barely recommended for everyday use, but it's tons of fun!  s:D s:D

[manos3003]

To add to the above statement, a K20 is more torquey mid-range rpm, whilst still maintaining that kick you get from VVL functionality (whether that's called VVTL-i, VTEC etc). So a K20 MR2 will be more suitable for track use, as driveability is supposed to be better with more mid-range torque.

It'd take some really clever calibration engineer to replicate that response profile on the 2zz. I might give it a go when I swap my JDM Celica ECU for the Apexi I have and give it a go at mapping  s:D s:D

[jvanzyl]

Nice  :-) :-) :-)  Soooo more track focused than the 2ZZ? That's quite a fair bit then...

[manos3003]

Nice  :-) :-) :-)  Soooo more track focused than the 2ZZ? That's quite a fair bit then...

Yes, the plan for the 2zz is to go one final big trip back home, so I can enjoy some top down driving where it's always sunny  s:) s:)

The K20 will be track orientated, hoping to maintain some reasonable levels of comfort for road use too   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[The Other Stu]

They're now stripped and off for vapour blasting. I have purchased a refurb kit from brakeparts.co.uk. Brand is Budweg, Danish I think. Anyone has any useful feedback on them?

I've got budweg calipers, they seem to do the job  s:) s:)
I toyed with buying the refurb kit as they didn't want the old ones back, but I since found out there's nothing wrong with the old ones. It was me!

[MilesH]

Diff swap completed, using the Toyota manual and the help of a friend to re-assemble. All I need to do is fit the shifter shaft when it arrives from Greece and the new reverse blockout, compliments of headcase.

Next on the list, is wiring loom and once all is assembled, preferrably prior to 30th of June (exhaust fitment date), I'll do my first key-on and ignition to see if everything is ok.  s:) s:)    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:  

On other news, I've just bought a K20 for an absolute steal. Time for another project next year then   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

K20 you say?? Would be interested to know what N/A driveability comparisons are between a 2zz and K20..

Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course  s:) s:)

[manos3003]

Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course  s:) s:)

That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story  s:) s:)

[MilesH]

Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course  s:) s:)

That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story  s:) s:)

Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and REmapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20  s:) s:)

[MilesH]

Having owned both in an mr2 I'd say big differences - however not quite so big a difference if you run the k20 on a standard Honda ECU. With a standalone and remap it transforms the K20 more than you can with a standard 2zz - all in my opinion of course  s:) s:)

That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story  s:) s:)

Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and remapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20  s:) s:)

[MilesH]

That's very true Miles, my mate's running a K-pro so it is quite different than just a standard K20. This also goes with running the 2zz with a Celica PCM rather than a standalone, of course, similar kind of story  s:) s:)

Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and remapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20  s:) s:)

[manos3003]

Agreed, but when I put a Power FC on the 2zz and remapped it didn't make as much difference as a Hondata on a K20  s:) s:)

Again, I agree, we can discuss the why for hours  s:D s:D

Back on the 2zz then, I'll post some pics soon   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[manos3003]

Time for an overdue update.

Yesterday started off a bit late, around 17:00.

Some basic prep work, like clearing space and moving the car outside so I can see better, as well as raise it evenly on stands and start undoing some connections.

Troubles with the engine dropping in a somewhat weird position meant the shifter cables had to be sacrificed, as there was no access from any possible angle to remove them. In hindsight, perhaps it would've been easier while the engine was still supported by the mounts.

Tip: When dropping the engine, make sure you undo the mounts in the following order: Front, Back, Left, Right.

End result looks something like this:

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I noticed I left the garage around 23:00 when all was done   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:   I guess when pulling a one-man show it takes considerably longer.   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Time to send the blown engine off to the scrappy this week and see if I can send the gearbox without LSD to a good home (avoiding scrappy). Wiring loom probably will be finished this week, so that means I'll be ready to assemble next weekend if all goes well  s:) s:)

[manos3003]

Interesting revelations about my calipers.

Went to Steve (D1 Customs) today to see what I'm missing.

Turns out the caliper that was sticking had been refurbed before, not to a great standard. Steve said I'm lucky I didn't have any brake failure so far   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

The combined efforts of Steve and me got the rear ones sorted and managed to get the pistons out the front ones, as my air compressor wasn't able to seal everything properly to blow enough air to push the pistons out.

Fun fact No1: We both agreed that yellow isn't a great colour ( expecting StuC to jump on this  s:P s:P  )

Fun fact No2: I ran into our very own jinxedkitten, dropping off a yellow MR2 with a sick engine and a flimsy bridge mount   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:

[manos3003]

Back on to regular 2zz news.

Today, shifter cables are to be removed awaiting new ones to come in. Might write a how to about this, don't want to see anyone else suffering the same.

Wiring loom and gearbox assembly are also in this weekend's list. Let's see what we manage then  s:D s:D

[1979scotte]

Interesting revelations about my calipers.

Went to Steve (D1 Customs) today to see what I'm missing.

Turns out the caliper that was sticking had been refurbed before, not to a great standard. Steve said I'm lucky I didn't have any brake failure so far   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

The combined efforts of Steve and me got the rear ones sorted and managed to get the pistons out the front ones, as my air compressor wasn't able to seal everything properly to blow enough air to push the pistons out.

Fun fact No1: We both agreed that yellow isn't a great colour ( expecting StuC to jump on this  s:P s:P  )

Fun fact No2: I ran into our very own jinxedkitten, dropping off a yellow MR2 with a sick engine and a flimsy bridge mount   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:

I have had poor refurbed calipers before it's why i try to buy new ones now.

Yellow is fine.
With black.

[manos3003]

I have had poor refurbed calipers before it's why i try to buy new ones now.

We managed to save mine with the help of Steve, although we both reckon I'll have to get new ones next time.

Yellow is fine.
With black.

Blue is fine with black. You're just saying that because you just bought yours. Give it time  s:P s:P    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[manos3003]

Right, update.

Managed to replace shifter cables along with a FL shifter assembly. That was a royal pain in the @rse, but good news is, I'll be writing a how-to  s:P s:P

Finished assembling gearbox. Garage Team will be sending my new shifter shaft this week so hopefully if I can get to doing wiring loom this week we're doing engine in on the next weekend hopefully with the first turnkey   s:D s:D     s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[manos3003]

Engine now fully assembled and positioned in the car!

If rain could have stopped, I would've also done gearbox and the test turnkey I was hoping to get this weekend. I guess that'll now have to wait after holibobs!

For reference for anyone interested, this is how the 6pk 1420 drive belt is routed on a non A/C 2zz

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[manos3003]

Right, car works, been established.

Can't get the gearbox on with the engine on the car though, so engine out once again to put everything together and offer up as one big unit.

The "put everything together" bit is done, rest to come.