Blue PFL V8 conversion

[8thumpers]

Cheers guys. I don't think it will be going anywhere without bracing tbh.
I may just put plastic caps in the tube ends after powder coat.
When you compare it to the pressed oem Toyota item it's damn strong!

[Mark A]

Nice welding, I must get practiceing

[8thumpers]

To keep things simple I have gone over to the original Audi front hubs for use on the rear end.
I had planned to fabricate a steel hub-carrier but it's proving tricky.
Bizarrely, the Audi hub carrier is very similar to the MR2 OEM, albeit drop forged in ally.

The two side by side show the same sort of pickup points they both have.
I need to convert the upper audi leg to take the 2's coil-over leg and fit some brackets in the lower ball joint tapers to accept the rose-joints.
The major change I have made is swap the Audi hub from side to side so that the steering track rod end is now at the back a-la the mr2 track control arm.

I've tried, but realistically I won't be trailering the car to Ding Day as planned...
Sorry guys! [emoji53][emoji54]

[StuC]

I've tried, but realistically I won't be trailering the car to Ding Day as planned...
Sorry guys! [emoji53][emoji54]

 

Your efforts to this point have shown a great level of commitment and enthusiasm. Which is to be applauded!! I, for one, was willing you to hit your DD target.
Next year though.... we are expecting a running car to come roaring into the car park!!!

I hope you'll still attend DD

[MrT]

Hey 8thumpers
Could you not get larger bearings for the 2hub and fit the Audi shaft to it? Alternatively, the bearing carrier bolts to the study hub so if you jigged up the 2 hub (particularly strut mount if the others might change due to the track width) and jig the Audi hub face then 'simply' plate up between the points to build the hub/s.

I know I over simplify the steps but that's the gist of it and sounds like what you planned to do. Personally I want to caution you from going the route you are with those hubs. If you insist though, the strut mount seems like the only reasonable part of your plan provided the ally of the hub is good density and well cast which I imagine it is. I regret saying it but from there I'd change the subframe and work out new geometry using the Audi mount points and original suspension joints, preferably link the trailing arm to the transverse arm rather than the hub like early MacPherson suspension on fords and Vauxhalls etc. That would allow for the correct trailing arm geometry of the original suspension but give you the wider track of the study drive shafts too, or anything in between with shorter  axles.

I hope all that makes sense and doesn't just sound like loads of extra work. I'd hate to see iffy suspension ruin your build or worse cause an accident and harm to anybody.

And forgive me if I'm stepping on your toes. Love your build and want to see it become a huge success.

[8thumpers]

Yes Stu, I'll come over sat afternoon

I've tried, but realistically I won't be trailering the car to Ding Day as planned...
Sorry guys! [emoji53][emoji54]

 

Your efforts to this point have shown a great level of commitment and enthusiasm. Which is to be applauded!! I, for one, was willing you to hit your DD target.
Next year though.... we are expecting a running car to come roaring into the car park!!!

I hope you'll still attend DD

[StuC]

@8thumpers good stuff. See you there.

[8thumpers]

Spurred on by Ding Day....

Had to remove a drive shaft bolt from one of the Audi hubs. Someone had previously had a go and rounded it off.
Found a spare 14mm socket and welded it into the rounded hole, then dropped the breaker bar onto it and clamped the disc in  the vice... Presto!! Out she came. No doubt the heat helped and as I'm fitting new bearings it wasn't an issue.
Next!

[8thumpers]

Next up is the conversion of the taper which takes the ball joint to rosejoint.
Started by removing the main ball joint and cutting the taper with threaded end off. The ball joint is junk so that was skipped.
The taper will be welded to the U bracket that the rosejoint will bolt to.
A hole has been drilled in the mounting face so that it can be welded from the top as well as around the base. It wants to be  slightly offset from centre to aid clearance to the hub carrier.

The main ball joint will have a similar U bracket welded onto a 42mm od tube which will clamp in - then both fitted back in original positions to work out the suspension arm lengths.

[MrT]

Hi 8thumpers
What's the reason for converting to the rose joint please? is it considerably stronger? And then isn't the taper u bracket going to become the weak link? Unless you anneal and quench the joint after welding to strengthen the weld of course.
Just curious as it seems a lot of work and compromised itself. But I don't really know.
Thanks

[toyofan]

Cant you just use a tapered bolt, and mount the rosejoint directly? no need for the bracket, and a stronger solution.

Like the pins in the lower middle in this picture:
http://wilhelmraceworks.com/suspension-geometry-kit


BTW: I just love your way of seeing the solutions, and not problems! like this:
Bizarrely, the Audi hub carrier is very similar to the MR2 OEM, albeit drop forged in ally.

Only a true fabricator can see the similarities of these parts:-)!!!

[8thumpers]

It's the flexibility if adjustment that is required. The hubs will not be in a perfect machined position so I can get the alignment sorted with the rose joints quite simply.

Oil quenching may well be a good idea.
The brackets are used a lot on modified race suspension so should be ok.
Regular inspection will be necessary on all the suspension for sure!

Hi 8thumpers
What's the reason for converting to the rose joint please? is it considerably stronger? And then isn't the taper u bracket going to become the weak link? Unless you anneal and quench the joint after welding to strengthen the weld of course.
Just curious as it seems a lot of work and compromised itself. But I don't really know.
Thanks

[8thumpers]

Tapered bolt would be another solution but I need the rose axis to be perpendicular to the taper bolt direction in order to get decent articulation and less wear on the bearing.

Be nice to see some British firms offering these US types of suspension mods....

Cant you just use a tapered bolt, and mount the rosejoint directly? no need for the bracket, and a stronger solution.

Like the pins in the lower middle in this picture:
http://wilhelmraceworks.com/suspension-geometry-kit


BTW: I just love your way of seeing the solutions, and not problems! like this:
Bizarrely, the Audi hub carrier is very similar to the MR2 OEM, albeit drop forged in ally.

Only a true fabricator can see the similarities of these parts:-)!!!

[8thumpers]

Collected a pile of plasma cut plates from my mate today....
Next job is to fabricate them into the engine mounts!

[8thumpers]

After 5hrs messing about with the mounts and re-cutting some, I finally have a design I'm happy with. I'll post some pics this week all being well, once they are welded.
Just need the subframe back on to sort the suspension arms...

[jvanzyl]

Good stuff!
What's the likelihood of your car making it to shinding day??

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[8thumpers]

Good stuff!
What's the likelihood of your car making it to shinding day??

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Ive not heard of that....? Where and when?

[jvanzyl]

It's like a mini ding day... Last year was great as we did dents and had professional headlight Restoration...

I'm assuming August at some point..
It'll be in Cholsey, South Oxfordshire, OX10 9PS .

Simon (bigbear) runs it...

Where are you again?

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[8thumpers]

It's like a mini ding day... Last year was great as we did dents and had professional headlight Restoration...

I'm assuming August at some point..
It'll be in Cholsey, South Oxfordshire, OX10 9PS .

Simon (bigbear) runs it...

Where are you again?

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Shropshire  - about 2 hrs away.
Car wont be on road by then .....

[8thumpers]

A quick update on the rear hubs.
Stripped them down so that they can be mounted in the mill.
The aim is to get the original audi leg shaved to the correct width, to fit in the bottom of the coil-over shock.

The threaded bar with nuts on is fixed thru a sacrificial part of the alloy leg - purely for milling location stability purposes. That piece will be cut off at a later date once everything is shaved.

[8thumpers]

Initial milling.
Once the correct angle of the suspension leg is determined then it will have some build-up added around the position of the bottom bolt hole.

[Joesson]

@8thumpers you have some serious machinery there, but then 8 into the space for 4 is pretty serious business. I'm glad to see that you have, or access, to some suitable kit.

[8thumpers]

Well a hacksaw and angle grinder just won't do! Lol

@8thumpers you have some serious machinery there, but then 8 into the space for 4 is pretty serious business. I'm glad to see that you have, or access, to some suitable kit.

[StuC]

Well a hacksaw and angle grinder just won't do! Lol

@8thumpers you have some serious machinery there, but then 8 into the space for 4 is pretty serious business. I'm glad to see that you have, or access, to some suitable kit.

I think we should have had a day trip out to yours at Ding Day!!

[8thumpers]

I had a quick look at the dipstick tonight.
The gear selector shaft has to go behind the engine mount plate and it's path was blocked by the dipstick tube.
You can see it here located in the red polybush guide.
A quick removal and a new bend or two later... Presto! A clear run for the shaft.

All the little jobs add up to big steps!