Dans Turbo Build

[shnazzle]

Thank you 

I would NOT expect you to go out in this weather! haha

I can check this weekend when I get back to look at the car.

So...vacuum hose from BOV directly to back of ECU with a 'T' piece to boost gauge. correct?

this is all prior prep to try and make the build go as smooth as possible 

No no. The bov and and boost controller (ECU in this case) both connect to a vacuum source

[dan944]

And this is why I check these things 

Suitable vacuum source on the '2?
So where does the boost gauge attach? Anywhere post turbo?

[shnazzle]

See now you're starting to get into vacuum block territory
That's 3 devices,so you're best off with a 4-port block.

One good vacuum feed is the tube that goes from the manifold into the blue VSV valve on the top left of the engine.
So, T into that, with one end going into the vacuum block and the other side back into the VSV.
Then connect the boost gauge,EMU and BOV to the vacuum block.

[dan944]

Awesome. Now I'm getting somewhere 
Once I get the spark plugs I've ordered everything except Intake pipe work. They don't hold them in store apparently.  (:< >

[shnazzle]

Ok so what have we got? For a decent 230+ hp setup

Injectors (470cc minimum), with fresh seals.
1deg colder spark plugs. NGK BKR6 or BKR7 maybe
Oil return bung high up in sump.
Oil feed from the oil pressure sensor with adapter. Restrictor in oil feed to reduce pressure.
Turbo manifold with new manifold to block gasket
Water and oil lines mounted to turbo (pain to do once on). Check wastegate actuator motion
Turbo mounted to manifold with new gasket
Attach oil feed and return to sump and pressure sensors adapter.
Tap into water with two T pieces from a feed pipe (pre-engine). Attach to water input and output on turbo.
Intake, as you're going MAF-less, can be a 3" pipe from throttle body
IAT boss in pipe by throttle body
Pipe continue to intercooler output with a BOV in it.
Vacuum pipe from vacuum block to BOV vacuum nipple
Intercooler input to turbo outlet using good clamp (think of the pressure it has to endure!)
Air feed to turbo. Good induction kit with wide pipe and heat protection.
Exhaust outlet from turbo to downpipe (connected to cat most likely). Wideband just before the cat, at about 10-15deg from horizontal
Cat to backbox with gaskets
One way valve in PCV to engine pipe and intake to rocker cover.
EMU installed and wired in (including plugging into IAT and Wideband (plugs supplied on harness by RRR on request.
Vacuum pipe from vacuum block to back of EMU.
Vacuum pipe from vacuum block to boost gauge.
Updated clutch.

Fluids (coolant and oil,might as well do gearbox as well)
...I think that's it
Miss anything?

[dan944]

You sir. Are a legend

I'll double check this when I've had less wine but I'm pretty sure I have all of the above. Except the car at the moment 

And the exhaust. And the intake....the list goes on.

[dan944]

Manifold arrived from America today (Turbokits.com)

Not bad considering I ordered it Thursday

Also received:
630cc siemens Injectors,
3 x MT 90
Compressor flange
IAT Boss

hopefully it'll all be delievered by the end of the week then start fitting!!

[dan944]

Odd question.

When fitting a turbo its said that a non return valve should be placed in the PCV pipe.

I purchased a non return valve and a PCV as I thought I may aswell.

when checking both these items, the operate exactly the same, so whats the point in the non return valve when essentially that's what the PCV is.

Does the PCV have a very low Pressure tolerance?

Just curious really.

Ps.  Think ive managed to clock the turbo all by myself.  very proud

[shnazzle]

A fresh pcv should do the trick for the boost levels you're looking to run. It's a safety.

[dan944]

I'll stick it in anyway but when playing with the parts I was confused that they both did the same..

fitting starts sat morning!!

Another question.  Could I disconnect the intake pipe between turbo and TB and stick the filter in to get me to Cambridge. that would give me pretty much normal operation.
or would that damage the turbo? overspeed or something?

[shnazzle]

Hmm.. That's not something I've ever considered haha.

The turbo would indeed have no resistance at all but would be spinning like mad...

Personally I'd just plumb it all in and set the wastegate of the turbo to basically just bleed air permanently so that you never really hit more than a couple psi boost.
Or get a temporary actuator spring for the lowest possible boost.
The lowest I can find is a 0.3 bar spring. That's just over 4psi. That should be grand for stock injectors and the ecu should compensate fueling accordingly.

I wonder if you can just adjust the preload on the actuator rod such that the valve is always open. So basically you'd be putting in a permanent boost leak.

[dan944]

I thought about changing the preload but mine doesn't give the option....
Unless!!!  ( BRAINWAVE )

If I disconnect the actuator rod from the wastegate valve it will just flap freely. Effectively eliminating boost?

Anyone got any science on this?
Where's @Carolyn when you need here haha

[Carolyn]

Small lump of wood jammed into the wastegate.

That's science for you!

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Damm beat me to it
I wired the wastegate open on my R5 Turbo in order to drive it to the rolling road, much safer than leaving it flapping around
Disconnect the wastgate arm from the actuator, and then tie it with some sturdy wire to something in the open position

[dan944]

Spot on.

Knew there must be a way. Haha.

Thank you all.

As always. Much appreciated

[shnazzle]

Together we'll get there in the end haha.

Well done on the quick progress on the hardware btw

[dan944]

Thanks but its down to you guys really.  It's the combined knowledge that stopped me from buying a black label kit and has enabled me to buy everything i need.  which reminds me i forgot the oil drain hose (facepalm)

biggest issue ive had is getting the adaptor correct for the oil feed line to sandwich plate. 3rd time lucky!!!

[shnazzle]

Thanks but its down to you guys really.  It's the combined knowledge that stopped me from buying a black label kit and has enabled me to buy everything i need.  which reminds me i forgot the oil drain hose (facepalm)

biggest issue ive had is getting the adaptor correct for the oil feed line to sandwich plate. 3rd time lucky!!!

Funnily enough I was just wondering the other day where to get one.
Any chance you can post a link and part number?

[dan944]

Which part? im sure i can oblige

the problem i have is that the oil feed is female an-4, sandwich plate is female 1/8 bpt, restrictor is male 7/16unf - male an-4.
i didnt realise that one end of the restrictor wasnt flared until the weekend. so not the question is how to rectify this. :s

[Carolyn]

Bloody plumbing.  I've got drawers full of fittings (from doing the rocket car) and I still end up at the hydraulics supplier buying the right one!

Figure out what you need and go to a hydraulics shop.

[dan944]

I think i'm going to have to. 

at this rate i might take the whole bloody lot with me!!.

i think the issue is the restrictor so going to order a new one which is an-4 to an-4 and that should negate this issue.

[Carolyn]

Taking the 'whole bloody lot' is my usual approach.

[Carolyn]

THIS is plumbing!!!

[dan944]

    Oh bejesus!!   

i just want to get the one adaptor right and ill be chuffed..haha

[dan944]

Turbo Water Lines.

TTE says put them in series.

RAD-TURBO-BLOCK-HEADER

others say in parallel

RAD-TEE-TURBO and BLOCK simultaneously - HEADER

running them parallel says to me that they both get cooler water supply than getting "second hand" coolant from the other.

Brain says TTE has more money and sense than i do.

Opinions??