Engine noise above 3k RPM

[J.P.]

I just finished completely rebuilding the suspension and brakes, got some fresh falken tyres, new belt and tensioner, fresh oil and filter and had the tracking done I then took it for a proper test drive. Took it to motorway speeds and the cars suspension and brakes feel great (Handbrake is weak even after adjustment, have brand new toyota cables to fit).

Engine is slightly hesitant between gear changes and when getting up past 3k revs, engine light came on and when checked for codes the scanner returned PO141 and PO141 P. I then noticed a potential knocking sound around 3k - 4k revs, it seems to disappear after that point. I had spark plugs, IACV and cam cover gasket ordered, also ordered some denso o2 sensors and was planning to fit next weekend in the hopes of eliminating the hesitation I was feeling but after hearing the noise I'm slightly suspect of the overall condition of this engine.

Engine is an oil burner, after searching here and elsewhere it seems it may need a rebuild, I wont get another chance to look at it until next weekend so wanted to get some opinions on here, from what I've described am I looking at bearings and rebuild or could it be something allot simpler like heat shields etc? Whats the best way to work through it and diagnose it properly? Triple checked it for oil level, dip stick reads full when cold. What do you folks think?

[Gaz mr-s]

If you get a code you have to google it to pinpoint.  P0141 is just the heater circuit for the post-cat O2 sensor. Won't alter running or noise.  Common occurrence of poor running is the maf.  A clean with contact cleaner or similar might help. The maf sensor is up inside the housing, not the visible blob.

[J.P.]

Cheers Gaz, yep I had googled the code and purchased some denso sensors to sort CEL, have some maf cleaner on the way too, was all planned for next weekend, clean throttle body, clean maf, new valve cover gasket and new spark plugs, got an o-ring for the chain tensioner I had planned to tackle them next weekend I'm just worried about the engine noise now but thanks for chiming in

[SurreyMR2]

I had a misfire and tried everything I could think of but couldn't fix it. After googling MAF & misfires I came across a post saying removing negative battery terminal for a minute or so resets the ECU & MAF. As I had nothing else to try I gave it a go & it worked. Been absolutely fine since.

[J.P.]

Well chain snapped while idling what are the chances the head has survived?

Had just finished handbrake cables, new valve cover gasket, new plugs, cleaned maf and changed the oil again. Car was idling and suddenly stopped and wouldnt start popped the valve cover off and found the chain broken. Dropped the sump didnt find any parts of the chain but potentially found some small plastic bits maybe off the chain guide. Will root through here to find the procedure to take the head off unless folks think there is little point?

[Ardent]

 

[Carolyn]

Probably bent a couple of valves.  You won't know until the head is removed.

[J.P.]

Well that's that then  I dont have the space or facilities or the confidence for that matter to repair this and definitely not the budget to pay someone to do it on my behalf. I'll ring around Monday and get some prices but chances are ill have to break the car which is depressing oh well at least I got to experience a few miles with the fresh brakes and suspension 

[Carolyn]

Well that's that then  I dont have the space or facilities or the confidence for that matter to repair this and definitely not the budget to pay someone to do it on my behalf. I'll ring around Monday and get some prices but chances are ill have to break the car which is depressing oh well at least I got to experience a few miles with the fresh brakes and suspension 

That's a shame.  How's the underside of the car?  If it's not a rust bucket, someone might just be willing to drop in another engine.  I hate to see another one getting scrapped. Ah I see you're in Dublin. All I can say is the engine doesn't have to be out of an MR2 -any 1ZZfe will do the job. So an engine out of an Avensis, a Celica, a Corolla and even a RAV4 would do.

[J.P.]

Underside is solid, found one 10mm hole that was repaired on the drivers side chassis rail near the front, poked a camera into the rails and they looked good, some surface rust but nothing alarming. I treated the car to a full bilt hamber treatment in all the cavities and fertan treated and painted everything external that was exposed (previous owner had it undersealed) I also went over the car quite aggressively with a large screwdriver and hammer and found nothing but surface rust and a very small hole in the passenger rear wing which is starting to go soft, planned to replace it next year.

Subframe was rotted so I replaced it, same with the power steering pipes. There are some brackets for air con and such that have all but disintegrated that I had planned to replace next year but other than that the car is solid.

I will ring around tomorrow and get some prices, if I had the facilities id crack on but unfortunately an engine is just too bulky.

[J.P.]

No one wants to touch it. I've rang over a dozen different places. I've cleared up a substantial budget but nobody wants the work and I lack the space I think I'm left with no option but to break it and try and recoup some funds back out of it unless someone knows a competent garage to take it on?

[Carolyn]

Don't give up yet.  It's no more complicated a jobthan doing an engin e swap on a front wheel drive toyota.

There's  got to be somebody....

[J.P.]

I've just bit the bullet and bought an engine off Mag and a t sport gearbox with an mr2 diff, 6th gear and final drive. Ive been given some space in a yard in the new year I just pray I have better luck this time.

What else should I need?

Clutch
Slave cylinder? Worth refreshing or replacing while engines out?
Thermostat
Intake and exhaust gaskets
Driveshaft seals

Any other recommendations?

[Carolyn]

Will you be swapping over all your ancillaries?

If so check all the pulleys for play/noise. New auxilliary belt.  The slave cylinders seem to last indefititely.

[Joesson]

Good to hear you are planning to overcome your current setback, good fortune often shines on those that help themselves.
I'm sure there will be many questions arise as you progress and there will be many answers from the good people on here to help you along the way.

[J.P.]

Will you be swapping over all your ancillaries?

If so check all the pulleys for play/noise. New auxilliary belt.  The slave cylinders seem to last indefititely.

Thank you ill check the pulleys at the weekend, only fitted a brand new gates belt and a new tensioner the week before last so one less thing I guess 

Good to hear you are planning to overcome your current setback, good fortune often shines on those that help themselves.
I'm sure there will be many questions arise as you progress and there will be many answers from the good people on here to help you along the way.

Hopefully there aren't too many head scratchers and it all just goes smoothly, we can live in hope I guess 

[Joesson]

@J.P.

You mention the drive shaft seal replacement, consider also the drive shaft CV joint lubrication. I noticed emulsified lubricant escaping from the bellows ( at less than 60k miles). The bellows were in good condition but the lubricant was exhausted. I cleaned them out, re packed with grease and fitted new bellows clamps.
The engine coolant hoses, if OE, will be tired and could also be considered for replacing.

[Ardent]

@J.P.
Not forgetting hope is stronger than fear and you used hope twice in your closing remarks.

[J.P.]

Just went and took the belt off, pulleys feel fine bar the one circled below, it spins freely and has quite a bit of play. Can anyone confirm if 13570-22010 is the correct part no. please? Is it worth replacing the long bolt that holds it in place too?

[Carolyn]

Just the pulley.

[Beachbum957]

That is the correct part # for the grooved idler

[Joesson]

@JP
https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/idler-assy-v-ribbed-1357022010

This diagram shows the pulley 13570, but also a bush/ bearing 90440-18010.
That being the case it could be that the bush/ bearing is the part that is worn!

I suggest removal of the OE pulley and have a look see.

[Beachbum957]

@JP
https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/idler-assy-v-ribbed-1357022010

This diagram shows the pulley 13570, but also a bush/ bearing 90440-18010.

90440-18010 is just a spacer and does not move.  The only bearing is in the pulley.

[J.P.]

That is the correct part # for the grooved idler

@JP
https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/idler-assy-v-ribbed-1357022010

This diagram shows the pulley 13570, but also a bush/ bearing 90440-18010.
That being the case it could be that the bush/ bearing is the part that is worn!

I suggest removal of the OE pulley and have a look see.

90440-18010 is just a spacer and does not move.  The only bearing is in the pulley.

Thanks everyone, I think I have everything needed now, waiting for the engine to be delivered and some other odds and ends to show up. All things going well it will be moving under its own power by the end of January.

[SurreyMR2]

Good to hear that your two is being repaired & gets to live. To many being scrapped currently 

If I was in your position with a rust free example I would have done the same