Hello and happy new year to all!! i have made a custom breastplate like corkys but a little more reinforced. Yesterday i finished painting it and today im gonna put it on and give it a test ride to see the results.
(http://i50.tinypic.com/2rgp1k7.jpg)
(http://i48.tinypic.com/2316wg.jpg)
Looks good...nice to see some DIY!!
How is it more reinforced though? the Corky's uses triangular sections to reinforce the cross beams which is surely stronger than just a plate?
Or have you used a different material?
Quote from: "MR 2ster"How is it more reinforced though? the Corky's uses triangular sections to reinforce the cross beams which is surely stronger than just a plate?
This one is angle all round the outside though, where the Corky's one is flat.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3178/2383786096_0952b0b3ac.jpg)
but corkies is 6mm thick
Good effort,looks great.
Yes, good effort, although you would have been better using channel section instead of angle s:wink: :wink: s:wink: You will find this design flexing too much because of this.
The key function of bracing the floorpan is to join the floor either side of the tunnel. The Corkys setup is pretty much optimum for resisting the shearing force that results as the floorpan tries to flex. The triagulation and welded on angle pieces help "close the box" structurally.
The diy item is a commendable effort that could make a noticeable improvement. Look forward to hearing how it works out. If it needs more rigidity the diagonals could be further stiffened with a couple of angle pieces.
Chris
Quote from: "markiii"but corkies is 6mm thick
I used the same thickness in mine(6mm). It really made the steering more sharp i like it very much. I can add some metal to make it more rigid but i think its ok because the metal it thick enough. I definetly believe that Corkys is a very good product but i wanted to have the happiness of the creation s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D
I like the square. One thing is, its the part on my car that used to catch on speed bumps so hopefuly the edges wont get too damaged.
I guess you may not have that problem in Greece.
Orea. s:) :) s:)
Philster.
FuZZy_gr - how much angle metal did you use to make this? My brother is quite handy with a welder, and has 3mm thick metal lying about his garage that he said he'd happily donate, but I fear it'll be way too thin to be able give any kind of rigidity as a brace, so am looking at how much materials would cost!
ebay of all places doesn't seem that bad for bits of metal as most places just sell there offcuts
You can get angle iron cheap enough in BnQ by the metre.
I'll be giving this a go myself soon. I seem to remember the dimensions kicking about somewhere? What did you use mate?
Quote from: "OlberJ"You can get angle iron cheap enough in BnQ by the metre.
I'll be giving this a go myself soon. I seem to remember the dimensions kicking about somewhere? What did you use mate?
Found it
m http://www.box.net/shared/0jzj10g4ej (http://www.box.net/shared/0jzj10g4ej) m
That's handy to know! s:D :D s:D
Silly question as I know nothing about the techincal side of bracing... but would it not be easier to just put a solid plate underneath the car? or do things get in the way or is it simply a weight saving excercise as to why this is not done?
many thanks
Quote from: "dj2k21"Silly question as I know nothing about the techincal side of bracing... but would it not be easier to just put a solid plate underneath the car? or do things get in the way or is it simply a weight saving excercise as to why this is not done?
many thanks
This would be the best solution from an ease of manufacture point of view. If I were making one, I would start with a 6mm thick aluminium rectangle and just put the 6 holes in the right place. It would provide better stiffening than the angle iron solutions, be easier to make and cost very little. If you wanted to be a bit more creative, you could make it from 12mm ally plate, profile out some triangular sections to save weight and put the bolts in pocketed holes.
Chris
Quote from: "ChrisGB"[If you wanted to be a bit more creative, you could make it from 12mm ally plate, profile out some triangular sections to save weight and put the bolts in pocketed holes.
Chris
Isn't that called a skid plate s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I presume there's the weight factor of a solid sheet of metal, to think about as well
Quote from: "ad_car_08"I presume there's the weight factor of a solid sheet of metal, to think about as well
Aluminium with weight reduction holes will be stiffer than steel weight for weight.
Chris
Quote from: "ad_car_08"Quote from: "OlberJ"You can get angle iron cheap enough in BnQ by the metre.
I'll be giving this a go myself soon. I seem to remember the dimensions kicking about somewhere? What did you use mate?
Found it
m http://www.box.net/shared/0jzj10g4ej (http://www.box.net/shared/0jzj10g4ej) m
That's handy to know! s:D :D s:D
Thankyou sir!
Getting hold of aluminium sheets 6mm thick is proving pretty expensive! s:-( :-( s:-( might as well buy a corkeys at this rate!
Quote from: "ad_car_08"Getting hold of aluminium sheets 6mm thick is proving pretty expensive! s:-( :-( s:-( might as well buy a corkeys at this rate!
You are looking for a small blank, so stockholders will be expensive. Try your local laser or waterjet profiling shop. If you just want a basic shape / holes and can provide them with a CAD file, you should be able to do it for reasonable money, especially as it is the sort of thing they can make from an offcut from a bigger part.
Chris
Aluminium Plate 500mm x 500mm Square x 12mm thickness Grade HE30F / 6082T6 General Engineering Grade of Aluminium. £100!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: "uktotty"Aluminium Plate 500mm x 500mm Square x 12mm thickness Grade HE30F / 6082T6 General Engineering Grade of Aluminium. £100!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is over twice the size needed and double the thickness. 6082T6 is also an expensive grade. Check out profiling shops. If you can give them a cad file, you may get the whole thing made in 6mm for minimum order charge. The 12mm version would need further work. Advantage of profiling shop is that they can put all holes in. When you buy a small blank, much of the cost is cutting it to size. If you wanted to slum it you could buy some 5083 or 5251.
Chris
Quote from: "ChrisGB"Quote from: "uktotty"Aluminium Plate 500mm x 500mm Square x 12mm thickness Grade HE30F / 6082T6 General Engineering Grade of Aluminium. £100!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is over twice the size needed and double the thickness. 6082T6 is also an expensive grade. Check out profiling shops. If you can give them a cad file, you may get the whole thing made in 6mm for minimum order charge. The 12mm version would need further work. Advantage of profiling shop is that they can put all holes in. When you buy a small blank, much of the cost is cutting it to size. If you wanted to slum it you could buy some 5083 or 5251.
Chris
Ay? According to the designs, the plate needs to be 619inches x 280inches, which by my calculations, equates to 1500(ish)mm x 700(ish)mm?? So the aluminium plate that uktotty found wasn't even half of what you'd need to make a breast plate.
I was finding 2000mm x 1000mm sheets of aluminium for £130 ex p&p, but by the time I bought that, and factor in the price for welding supplies, I figured I might as well just buy a plate off the shelf and save myself the hassle and jiggery pokery to get it to fit
s:roll: :roll: s:roll: Lazy cad designer. The information box shows dimensions in "inches (mm)" but the cad designer has neglected to tie up the units. Much of the other stuff in the box is irrelevant too. Why do cad guys do this so often. No wonder stuff is so expensive. Also, 619 x 280 inches is 15.722 x 7.112 Meters, which will foul the wheels and passing traffic and make parking tricky. Actual blank size is 619 x 280mm. No material thickness is specified either, but we do know it should have a maximum surface roughness of 250 Ra.
For anyone not finding that tying up these basics is not obvious, I would suggest that making bits for the car is not what they should be doing.
If I had enough time, or interested parties, I could get some ally ones made up.
Chris
I'd be intrigued to see an estimate cost for teh spec you listed Chris as so far 12mm thick plate is looking rather expensive,
do you reckon these would match or better teh usual price of a corky plate?
Quote from: "ChrisGB":roll: Lazy cad designer. The information box shows dimensions in "inches (mm)" but the cad designer has neglected to tie up the units. Much of the other stuff in the box is irrelevant too. Why do cad guys do this so often. No wonder stuff is so expensive. Also, 619 x 280 inches is 15.722 x 7.112 Meters, which will foul the wheels and passing traffic and make parking tricky. Actual blank size is 619 x 280mm. No material thickness is specified either, but we do know it should have a maximum surface roughness of 250 Ra.
For anyone not finding that tying up these basics is not obvious, I would suggest that making bits for the car is not what they should be doing.
If I had enough time, or interested parties, I could get some ally ones made up.
Chris
Alright, alright, no need to get all moral and upity...so I made a slight mistake with the conversion of measurements.. s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Thanks for the clarification non-the-less
that CAD picure just shows where to drill the holes not how to make the brace
I think the LM Corse plate was 6mm sheet type design, here is a pic of my original one that was fitted to my first Roadster, next to the stock items.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/2000silver2/mr2%20pics/antiflexplate02.jpg)
having owned both an original MR2 Spyder one, owned a corkies, and experience both teh lm corsa and cusco versions I'd lean towards the corkies every time
I'm relatively sure that flat 12mm plate as described by chris would be similar in result to teh corkies though obviously I have no empirecal evidence
the problem is whether you can make something as effective as corkies for teh price you can buy a corkies
Quote from: "ad_car_08"FuZZy_gr - how much angle metal did you use to make this? My brother is quite handy with a welder, and has 3mm thick metal lying about his garage that he said he'd happily donate, but I fear it'll be way too thin to be able give any kind of rigidity as a brace, so am looking at how much materials would cost!
The materials cost me about 18pounds and i used the angle because the flat metal sheet has more streching than the angled one. Thats why corky uses the angles in the center just to reduce the twist of the brace. I just added angle to the perimeter too to make it even more rigid.
Quote from: "markiii"I'd be intrigued to see an estimate cost for the spec you listed Chris as so far 12mm thick plate is looking rather expensive,
do you reckon these would match or better the usual price of a corky plate?
If I can get Autocad R14 working in Vista, I will rustle up a drawing and get it quoted next week.
Chris
Quote from: "FuZZy_gr"Quote from: "ad_car_08"FuZZy_gr - how much angle metal did you use to make this? My brother is quite handy with a welder, and has 3mm thick metal lying about his garage that he said he'd happily donate, but I fear it'll be way too thin to be able give any kind of rigidity as a brace, so am looking at how much materials would cost!
The materials cost me about 18pounds and i used the angle because the flat metal sheet has more streching than the angled one. Thats why corky uses the angles in the center just to reduce the twist of the brace. I just added angle to the perimeter too to make it even more rigid.
but how much angle did you use? length?
It is 90 degrees angle and it was 6 meter long before i cut it to pieces. It is not exactly a usual angle. Its one side has 6cm width and its other side has the half width(3cm).
Brilliant, thanks fuzzy!
I for one would be very interesting in buying one of these braces in ali if they are made.
and people on this site seem to be talking about corkey braces as though everywhere sells them and they are very easy to obtain, I cant find one anywhere lol, can someone point me in the right direction to get hold of a corkey's? thats the only suspension mod I feel I am missing now.
thank you s:) :) s:)
I too am after a Corkys, so if something simular is made and tried and tested, then im sure a few people would be up for them on here.
2nd hand Corkys do come up from time to time but they are usually snapped up pretty quick.
If its a Corkys you want your best trying SpyderChat, you more likely to get one on there, just depends on how much you want to fork out
Can someone tell me what is the weight of the corkys?
Quote from: "FuZZy_gr"Can someone tell me what is the weight of the corkys?
Cannot tell you the weight, but it is light enough to make no perceptible difference to the cars accelleratio.
Chris
I could be interested in this too. I've got a rollover bar, which may help stiffness to an extent, but from what I've read here this kind of thing would make a nice improvement.
Rollover bar? Are you sure or do you have a style bar?
Style bar will add no rigidity to the chassis, the proper roll bars may however but I dont know anyone who has one in the UK
I would imagine it's a style bar, but it came with the car so I can't be sure what its for. It's chrome finished but quite thick (which is annoying for looking out the rear) and it seems pretty sturdy but hollow.
Looking around, I think it's this one m http://www.tte.de/popup/TTE/cm_mr2_rollbar.htm (http://www.tte.de/popup/TTE/cm_mr2_rollbar.htm) m
I'm not claiming it does stiffen things up, it just occurred to me that it might given that it's lateral strength should be reasonable.
Quote from: "ChrisGB":roll: Lazy cad designer. The information box shows dimensions in "inches (mm)" but the cad designer has neglected to tie up the units. Much of the other stuff in the box is irrelevant too. Why do cad guys do this so often. No wonder stuff is so expensive. Also, 619 x 280 inches is 15.722 x 7.112 Meters, which will foul the wheels and passing traffic and make parking tricky. Actual blank size is 619 x 280mm. No material thickness is specified either, but we do know it should have a maximum surface roughness of 250 Ra.
For anyone not finding that tying up these basics is not obvious, I would suggest that making bits for the car is not what they should be doing.
If I had enough time, or interested parties, I could get some ally ones made up.
Chris
Umm. Step of the soapbox sir.
Actually I drew that drawing a while back. The reason it is messy is that my CAD pdf macro (automatic, one button) lobs on my standard drawing border (inch primary units) unless I tell it otherwise and getting this up was a quickie for the forum; I did not post up my own final drawings - that is simply giving too much away....
As for not making bits for cars - you are correct; my company actually works on a load of high pressure containing critical products and is highly paid for its expertise..... for good reason : accuracy and speed. If you use oil based products, then these have likely come through equipment with my company engineering in there. If you heard of the bad weather shut down in Norway that threatened our gas supplies over this cold snap then know that my company designed the flexible pressure piping on the well completion system in that massive gas field.
Im looking at getting a Corkys 'like' breastplate made (im just speaking with a few contacts). It wouldnt be bits welded together, it would be complete. I need to work out pricing, but im looking to guage some interest.
Would anyone else be up for buying them if i can get it sorted for less than a Corkys shipped?
I would like to see a complete plate but welded parts are the same as the complete one in strength except that the welded parts need more work to become so good looking as the complete.
Ive start a GB thread.
Im no expert but im guessing that this plate will be under continous flex and stain. I would have thought no matter how good the weld is it likely to crack at some point with the pressure its under.
Ill see what prices i can come up with
Quote from: "sjspitz"Quote from: "ChrisGB":roll: Lazy cad designer. The information box shows dimensions in "inches (mm)" but the cad designer has neglected to tie up the units. Much of the other stuff in the box is irrelevant too. Why do cad guys do this so often. No wonder stuff is so expensive. Also, 619 x 280 inches is 15.722 x 7.112 Meters, which will foul the wheels and passing traffic and make parking tricky. Actual blank size is 619 x 280mm. No material thickness is specified either, but we do know it should have a maximum surface roughness of 250 Ra.
For anyone not finding that tying up these basics is not obvious, I would suggest that making bits for the car is not what they should be doing.
If I had enough time, or interested parties, I could get some ally ones made up.
Chris
Umm. Step of the soapbox sir.
Actually I drew that drawing a while back. The reason it is messy is that my CAD pdf macro (automatic, one button) lobs on my standard drawing border (inch primary units) unless I tell it otherwise and getting this up was a quickie for the forum; I did not post up my own final drawings - that is simply giving too much away....
Hehe, sorry, did not realise this was a draft. My quality management background mean that I have seen so many under or over priced, under or over specced, mis quoted or rejected parts due to someone injecting a draft into the system on a "standard" border and box that it just sends me off on one s:oops: :oops: s:oops: I have even seen expensive bits made in mm that should have been in inches and vice versa. And the cost of those was nothing compared to NASAs loss a few years ago for a similar error.
Quote from: "sjspitz"As for not making bits for cars - you are correct; my company actually works on a load of high pressure containing critical products and is highly paid for its expertise..... for good reason : accuracy and speed. If you use oil based products, then these have likely come through equipment with my company engineering in there. If you heard of the bad weather shut down in Norway that threatened our gas supplies over this cold snap then know that my company designed the flexible pressure piping on the well completion system in that massive gas field.
Again, sorry. The design is obviously well considered and you clearly understand the stresses the brace will be under and it is IMO very nicely drawn. I have no doubt that you would make this sort of thing without any problem. What I was getting at is that if someone where going to use your drawing to make the brace who did not easily figure out the dimension box discrepancy, they would probably not be suitably qualified to make something for the car where safety could be an issue.
Structure wise, comparison between a solid 12mm piece vs a welded angle reinforced 6mm piece will be interesting. I am sort of swamped at the moment, but am generating something for pricing purposes. I would value your opinion on it when I have draw it.
Chris
No worries Chris... I did think about what you were saying about people using the drawing as provided and it ending up costing someone money in mistakes so I have updated my drawing to the latest version and I also combined all 3 pages of the drawing so all the info is there.
I am perfectly happy to update this drawing as appropriate for the community and to keep it published on my box.net account at http://www.box.net/shared/0jzj10g4ej so it we work together we can end up with a design that everyone is happy with and which is 'makeable' that perhaps someone can source.
To reiterate my points elsewhere in the board, this part as I have shown it fits my X-plate roadster perfectly. The only problem with the design as shown: the three holes used to fit the Toyota pipe clips into are actually odd shapes (two are rectangular and one is oval); this is fine for thin plate that can be pressed and where the pipe clips can stick through the plate. With the thicker plate I used, the clips cannot stick through and the holes cannot be so easily formed.
When I get some time I will run a comparative FEA between the part as shown with one made simply from thicker plate perforated with holes in certain places for lightness i.e. one not requiring welding. I have been wondering if a solid slab of 10mm thick GRP would be a superior solution but again, have not had time to get into it in any detail - other than - it will cost a shit load more in GRP.
Quote from: "sjspitz"To reiterate my points elsewhere in the board, this part as I have shown it fits my X-plate roadster perfectly. The only problem with the design as shown: the three holes used to fit the Toyota pipe clips into are actually odd shapes (two are rectangular and one is oval); this is fine for thin plate that can be pressed and where the pipe clips can stick through the plate. With the thicker plate I used, the clips cannot stick through and the holes cannot be so easily formed.
I was going to have the plates waterjet cut, so the hole shapes are easy, then mill out the areas for the clips and the countersinks for the floorpan bolts.
Quote from: "sjspitz"When I get some time I will run a comparative FEA between the part as shown with one made simply from thicker plate perforated with holes in certain places for lightness i.e. one not requiring welding. I have been wondering if a solid slab of 10mm thick GRP would be a superior solution but again, have not had time to get into it in any detail - other than - it will cost a s**t load more in GRP.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: I was thinking about some 10mm GRP maybe a Tufnol. Also have access to some 6mm Carbon Fibre plate that would look sexy. But Ally seems to offer the best practical option.
Chris
How much is one of corkys plates, I can get a piece of 6mm steel sheet drilled with the location holes with the cut outs in and the angle welded on myself, with the plasma and tig.
Not sure how neat the plasma cuts would be, but it'd certainly do what its meant to £90 plus shipping ?
Might find out how much for an Ali one
Not cheap mate, looking at £150-£200 second hand. They are hard to come by also.
The original ones were made out of ali, a steel construction is said to be heavy and not ideal for this kind of application
I'll have a look at the cost in Ali then
Let us know how you get on
If you are doing it in 6mm mild or stainless steel (or even in aluminium) you could get laser profiling done which would be great for getting the holes the right size and shape without needing to drill them afterwards.
You should see nice neat edges too.
Chris
Last night, over a pint of the local brew, I was having a chat to my brother about making one of these breast plates, and he quizzed me about the actual gains of fitting one.
So many people have them fitted and say they're one of the best modifications to make, and they're in such rare supply....so many people can't be wrong?!
The points I'd put across;
- the original bracing is thin/flimsy in comparison
- the original bracing is made up of two parts, where as a corkeys style brace is 1 unit that should uphold chassis stiffness(?)
The points he put across;
- If there's any sort of flex, it would be more likely to be around the suspension strut areas, so surely more gains could be had from a strut brace? using a tower as an extremely basic example, if you secure the bottom, the top is still likely to wobble around, but if you secure the top, the bottom is less likely to move as much.
Our conversation has got me questioning which is the best route to go down now...breast plate or top mounted strut brace?
I read somewhere that an aftermarket strut brace would offer no performance gains, as the standard "X" bracing in the engine bay does a perfectly good job already, which would leave a strut brace in the frunk....but then would that really make much of a difference?? s:? :? s:?
Your brother's right in respect to most cars (well in my limited experience). So, fitting a front strut brace on my Fiat Barchetta made a lot of difference.
As I understand it, on the MR2, we've already got quite a lot of bracing and being RWD the back end would generate most problems anyway. So the current bracing at the back appears to do a fairly good job. The front seems fairly sorted as well and isn't put under pressure by having power through the wheels. The weak point seems to be in the middle. When I say weak point, it's all a matter of perspective. The MR2 seemed to me to be one of the sweetest chassis I'd ever driven when I first got in it. So it's all a mater of degrees.....
Just an opinion.....
front strut brace is also an essentialmod,
which makes more difference corky or front strut? is all a matter of opiniion
I would argue that stiffening the front end with a strut brace actually enhance the need for the breastplate - the lateral flex will happen in the least stiff part.
I noticed the FSB far more than the breastplate, however that was also the first one to go on (both on my old car and on Jo's) so may have been a trick of the mind perhaps. That said, as Mark says I would consider them both to be must-haves, and really should be the first mod any one does to their car: The difference they make is like night and day.
ah ha! Fantastic! Thank you for your replies/opinions s:D :D s:D
Does the degree of improvement and which is more helpful vary for the pre/post-facelift models?
I couldnt comment really, but what i will say is that further bracing was added to the facelift model so there must be a suggestion something more was needed.
Oakly dokely, looks like I could do them for £100 for the breastplatein 6082T6 6mm Ali, this would include the all holes and the angle bracing welded on , but with the webs cut out by plasma cutter via a template, still trying to find a local laser/water cutter bod, If a few of us can get together, then should be able to get them done for the same-ish price with them being laser cut
Quote from: "Paulm"Oakly dokely, looks like I could do them for £100 for the breastplatein 6082T6 6mm Ali, this would include the all holes and the angle bracing welded on , but with the webs cut out by plasma cutter via a template, still trying to find a local laser/water cutter bod, If a few of us can get together, then should be able to get them done for the same-ish price with them being laser cut
Are you using that drawing I posted a few posts back? Do you want the geometry of the holes updated and a revised drawing posted? Remember that the geometry I show for the three pipe clip holes is not optimum....
That it'd really useful thanks
Crikey Paul, talk about taking the bull by the horns!
You can count me in for a BP, lasercut or plasma cut.
Quote from: "Paulm"That it'd really useful thanks
Any particular geometry, or just matching the Toyota hole geometry? Do you want the area where the holes are to show a skim down to the stock Toyota thickness so that the clamps just snap in as normal? How are you planning on it?
Once I know then I can do the updates.
If you can just match the toyota hole geometry that'd be best, dont worry about the skim for the plate thickness, I'll get the father in law to locally mill around the clip holes so the material only thins out say inch radius around the clip holes and doesnt weaken the plate.
Quote from: "ad_car_08"The points he put across;
- If there's any sort of flex, it would be more likely to be around the suspension strut areas, so surely more gains could be had from a strut brace? using a tower as an extremely basic example, if you secure the bottom, the top is still likely to wobble around, but if you secure the top, the bottom is less likely to move as much.
The breastplate needs some understanding to make sense. Essentially, the front and rear firewalls of the car support the strut towers at each end. These firewalls are joined by a panel that is essentially an inverted U channel with flaps of metal either side onto which the sills are welded. By putting the breastplate on, you turn the U channel into a tube. What this does is stabilise the centre section by not permitting one side of the floorpan to move relative to the other. The plate works almost exclusively to resist shear. This helps the car chassis resist twisting, so keeps the front and read better coupled and gives the suspension a more rigid platform to work off.
Chris
ChrisGB, I can't thank you enough! That's exactly the description I was about to look for! I was going to ask but thought I'd probably get s:flame: :flame: s:flame: and told to search!!
Quote from: "Paulm"Oakly dokely, looks like I could do them for £100 for the breastplatein 6082T6 6mm Ali, this would include the all holes and the angle bracing welded on , but with the webs cut out by plasma cutter via a template, still trying to find a local laser/water cutter bod, If a few of us can get together, then should be able to get them done for the same-ish price with them being laser cut
Hey up paul, fancy seeing you over here s:) :) s:)
Count me in too.
SShhhhh ! Wanna buy a tit plate guvnor
Drawing now updated; sorry for the delay - I have been rushed off my feet with damn work....
http://www.box.net/shared/0jzj10g4ej
Superb work, I'll get it priced up this week
Right finally got a couple of these machined up for trial, they've been done in 8mm Ali instead of 6mm and are pretty robust so may not need the angle welded on. I'll pick them up at the weekend and post a pic or two on a how it fits.
whooooa, I was just about to PM you about these Paul! s:D :D s:D
Coolio,
They're being milled tommorrow, the only thing I'm not sure off is if we need to add on the angle brace. I can get the 8mm without done for £100 or a 6mm with angle for £110 ??????
What do people with a proper engineering brain think ?
Should be able to a group buy discount too
I am willing to bet you won't see any difference between these two options because that part of the car becomes so stiff compared to other locations.
Though from a purely engineering perspective I would bet on the reinforced thinner one being notably stiffer when used as one 'side' of a box section (as it is on the MR2 chassis) subject to a combination of shear, twist & bending. I would run a quick analysis to prove it but my software licence is tied up with real work (boo!).
Hi all, I've managed to make my own variant to the corkeys brace using the drawings/measurements uploaded to this thread. I'm unsure of how big the holes should be though. The updated drawings suggest they could be 7mm, but it didn't seem a definite answer. Can anyone confirm the size please?
Finally heres the breast plate cut, looks fantastic, now we need ato come up with a name for them.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f228/Subarupaul/MR2%20V8%20build%20diary/P1010014.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f228/Subarupaul/MR2%20V8%20build%20diary/P1010015.jpg)
Thought I'd do a trial fit to make sure they're OK
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f228/Subarupaul/MR2%20V8%20build%20diary/P1010021.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f228/Subarupaul/MR2%20V8%20build%20diary/P1010022.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f228/Subarupaul/MR2%20V8%20build%20diary/P1010023.jpg)
Took about 10 mins to do and fits really well, speaking to the machinist he's willing to knock a few more quid off for a GB, do you think its worth setting one up. Also I think its worth developing the breast plate into a full floorpan plate, probably work out to be for TTE money but for a full Corkey like plate any thoughts ?
Looking great Paul, full floorplan plate sounds more interesting though s8) 8) s8)
Can anyone confirm the hole size??
Not sure what hole you mean, but all teh dimesions are on teh drawing
Quote from: "Paulm"Finally heres the breast plate cut, looks fantastic, now we need ato come up with a name for them.
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Took about 10 mins to do and fits really well, speaking to the machinist he's willing to knock a few more quid off for a GB, do you think its worth setting one up. Also I think its worth developing the breast plate into a full floorpan plate, probably work out to be for TTE money but for a full Corkey like plate any thoughts ?
...someone get me dimensions and any sketches and I will knock up the drawing as well as do some basic optimisation of the design...
Hi Stuart,
I'll get it measured up and sketched and send it over, the base will be the breast plate with, struts coming off it going to the 4 corners of the floorplan.
Quote from: "Paulm"Not sure what hole you mean, but all the dimesions are on the drawing
The 6 holes that secure the breast plate to the car. One diagram says they're 7mm, but indicates it's not 100% sure
Quote from: "ad_car_08"Quote from: "Paulm"Not sure what hole you mean, but all the dimesions are on the drawing
The 6 holes that secure the breast plate to the car. One diagram says they're 7mm, but indicates it's not 100% sure
There are no indications that they are 7mm on any of the sheets that I can see from the latest download. The holes to fix the plate to the car are dimensioned at 11mm diameter. The original pieces are not all the same (although the bolts are). From the rear of the car the piece with two holes has a 9mm hole and a 9 x 12.3 obround. The front piece, on its rear edge, has a 9.1mm hole nearside, 11.1mm hole offside and on its front edge an 11.1mm hole nearside and a 9.1 x 11.1mm obround offside. These are designed to allow for manufacturing tolerance in the floorpan drill and set nut positions. If you wanted to be pedantic, you could do all 6 holes at 9.1mm and then ease them a little to fit the floorpan. However, doing them all at 11mm should work out OK. The only proviso I have with this is that with an aluminium plate like the Corkys, the bolts chew into the ally. With a steel plate they may not, it needs someone to fit one up, run the car and check to see that there is no movement against the bolt faces to be absolutely sure, but it
should be ok to just drill at 11mm all round.
There is a note 4 on the drawing that appears to relate to note 5 in the general notes box regarding the position of the cut outs for hose clamps. This states the dimension for the hole position has been slightly increased for clearance to the RSA and refers to a dimension of 71mm increased to 77mm.
Chris
I'm looking to design and fabricate my own breastplate, but the file-sharing account hosting the original drawings seems defunct. Does anybody happen to have files or the positional measurements of the bolt holes? Would be greatly appreciated!
Quote from: backseatbarry on July 11, 2023, 00:28I'm looking to design and fabricate my own breastplate, but the file-sharing account hosting the original drawings seems defunct. Does anybody happen to have files or the positional measurements of the bolt holes? Would be greatly appreciated!
Fair enough if you want to make your own, however you can buy an even better one from
@Snelbaard who makes them and a whole other bunch of braces.
I'm located in the US, so unfortunately it's out of my financial means to buy from Snelbaard. I do have access to plenty of 'scrap' alloy from my college, so machining my own breastplate is something I'd like to explore if not for the heck of it ;D