As most people know i am running an Sp240 turbo kit.
Even though its a stonking kit i am always at ways to make my 2 faster.
On my many google searches i come up with a few things that seem good value but i wonder if i am missing anything.
m http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=garr ... -gt28r-t25 (http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=garrett-gt2560r-aka-gt28r-t25) m
626 for a gt2560 looks good value or have i just been looking in the wrong places?
m http://www.turbomotor.dk/contents/da/d28.html (http://www.turbomotor.dk/contents/da/d28.html) m
123 for a cast 1zz t25 turbo manifold
Or
m http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/ (http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/) m
94 euro for a cast t3 manifold
m http://www.ecumaster.co.uk/ (http://www.ecumaster.co.uk/) m
Anyone have any first or even seconhand knowledge of the above.
They do a stand alone ecu with some great features for a cracking price.
Finding somone trustworthy to map it could be an issue from what i have read it is made in poland and the software is written by an ex lotus guy.
Any thoughts.
The Stainless manifold underneath is interesting at 45 quid!
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"The Stainless manifold underneath is interesting at 45 quid!
Think it would crack tbh.
If your going bigger then I would suggest going bigger with some extra future scope. Personally if I was in your spot I wouldn't go smaller than the gt28rs, that way I can go for more later without changing the turbo again.
The other thing is at what point would be enough? For me I'm stopping at the gtx3071r
I wouldnt be going with that cast mani, there would be losses with those runners. If it was me, I would be looking at a manifold that gives the best for your current set up, equal length and longer runners to improve low down torque and possibly slightly larger diameter runners to improve high end power.
Going for bigger turbos gives more top end power but at the cost of low and mid range, if the car is nice to drive with the current set up, I wouldnt be going bigger. I have been there before with other Toyotas and you end up with a big hit for 2500rpms to the red line and squat before that. It makes a good drag car or good for swinging sdick dick sdick s with numbers but not for driving.
If you have maxed on on the efficency for boost for that turbo then I would consider a hybrid rather than the next size up.
With that cast manifold you'd need to mount it with the turbo flange facing up on a 1zz.
Quote from: "mr-ed_smt"With that cast manifold you'd need to mount it with the turbo flange facing up on a 1zz.
why do you say that?
Look at the bolt pattern on the block flange.
Quote from: "mr-ed_smt"Look at the bolt pattern on the block flange.
Which one the t3 or t25?
Both, I thought - although after looking again it appears they have patterns for both 1zz and 2zz. My mistake - as you were!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160831/7141129d0369f468708bf9bcfd7ce865.jpg)
Thats cool thanks for your input.
I've got that cast manifold from when I was putting together my own turbo kit, got a great turbo for it too, and I nice sized chargecooler. I've fitted it up in the car to see where it sat too. looked like it would have worked well.
Nice to hear that.
What turbo and cooler did you go for?
It's a pace chargecooler and a t28 ball bearing turbo with a t3 flange. should be capable of 300hp without generating too much heat. I never fitted it, just bolted it on to size it up. I'm still tempted to fit it all and sell the power enterprise kit on my car. I just don't get alot of time now days, 2 kids and non stop work. Dare I say it, I think it would be a superior turbo to a gt28rs in our application! Everybody loves a disco potato, i know, but the turbo I chose has a composite impeller as well as bb like the rs, but less inertia, so should spool better than a gt28rs, it just doesn't love to go above 10-11psi, which is more than you could use on a stock 1zz from what I've read of other people's projects on here.
Personally scott I think you can push your current turbo to the limit of the engine. With the right fuelling/intake cooling. You will kill the engine before the turbo
Dump the intercooler for a charge cooler and whack up the boost s:D :D s:D
It already makes 10/11 psi i think pushing it past 12 is too much.
Charge cooler is on the cards Lee.
Quote from: "1979scotte"It already makes 10/11 psi i think pushing it past 12 is too much.
Charge cooler is on the cards Lee.
Ah though you was lower, Yeah don't go past 12. Mine is 12ish. Thought you would be making more than 240bhp at those pressures. Maybe your map is a little "safe". Might be worth comparing your intake temps to someone chargecooled, give you and idea if it is worth any gains.
I would also confirm that you are boosting at 10/11 before you spend money on a turbo. If it turns out your only pushing 8 or so those extra couple make a good difference
Bigger turbo would get you more air in and cooler. I've been looking at turbos too but can't decide if I'm going forged or completely different engine. Too many options it hurts my head.
Agree, i'd totally look at inlet temps, and also potentially if you don'thave one get a rolling road, the reason I say that is the stock ECU is very good at pulling timing out, it will do this without you really knowing as it does it smoothly and doesn't tell you, and just basically throw your power out the window. if that is the case you could as above just run a better cooling, and see instant power without even a remap.. that said I have no idea what the intake temps on a good setup would be, I could measure mine tomorrow with torque assuming its accurate it may give you an idea.. but possibly not the best car to get a comparison from s:D :D s:D
I have a cheap digital boost gauge which i am pretty confident is reasonably accurate.
Charge cooler will be my next purchase. The TTE/SP intercooler is tiny so i think it would a vast improvement.
10psi on my T2559 is going to be nothing like 10 psi on a GT2860RS unless i have got the wrong end of the stick.
Also the map builds up to 10 psi quite quickly but drops the boost pressure at high revs for engine longevity. Again this all as is supposed to be with an SP turbo kit.
A rolling road power run and health check has been on the cards for a while just never seem ton get around to it.
Quote from: "1979scotte"10psi on my T2559 is going to be nothing like 10 psi on a GT2860RS unless i have got the wrong end of the stick.
No, you have the right end of the stick, I was trying to think of ways to save your pocket. Bigger turbos mean bigger pipes, exhausts not lining up, more air so maybe bigger injectors. But the gt2860rs is kind of sexy, s:D :D s:D your timing could also be pulled quite a bit in your map.. Also for "engine longevity"
Quote from: "Leethesparky"Quote from: "1979scotte"10psi on my T2559 is going to be nothing like 10 psi on a GT2860RS unless i have got the wrong end of the stick.
No, you have the right end of the stick, I was trying to think of ways to save your pocket. Bigger turbos mean bigger pipes, exhausts not lining up, more air so maybe bigger injectors. But the gt2860rs is kind of sexy, s:D :D s:D your timing could also be pulled quite a bit in your map.. Also for "engine longevity"
My current thinking is that it can be done in stages. So chargecooler next year, turbo the year after and stand alone ecu the year after that.
It could be a much longer term thing however. Little extra like injectors, fuel pressure reg, gauges etc all add up.
Even futher into the future there are forged internals and gearbox conversions.
Something like an engine swap is too much outlay for me atm.
2gr would be my pick but a k20 would open up loads of potential.
Yeah I know what you mean. I was thinking about selling all the upgrades off my engine and going for a 2gr but it's still too much money and I don't think I'm clever enough to do it myself.
If you are going forged then the disco potato would become pointless and you would need to get bigger again. Like the one Richard mentioned earlier.
Gets frustrating when you want to upgrade something and you can't without upgrading everything
The stock TTE turbo is working at maximum capacity producing 240 bhp. A bigger turbo will enable you to hold 10 / 11 psi up to the red line, giving a big step up in power, but keeping torque peak the same. The engine and gearbox "should" be good with it.
2gr is only a starting point, to get big numbers means tuning, which adds more cost still.
Quote from: "ChrisGB"2gr is only a starting point, to get big numbers means tuning, which adds more cost still.
Not a bad starting point though s:D :D s:D