Picked up a fortnight or so ago, only insured for the month but after that it will sit in the garage until Jan/Feb time, giving me chance to get some changes/maintenance done.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/5l7w4k.jpg)
Patrick's given it the once over and for the money paid, it's in decent nick.
Jobs to do:
Oil tensioner O-ring - sourced the sealforce one mentioned on the forum, waiting to fit.
Remove pre-cats - bought the 22mm O2 socket, just summoning up the courage/time to tackle it.
LED sidelights - bumper off time.
Fit subwoofer - Volvo /Philips 'woox' combined sub and woofer sourced from eBay for £16 delivered, mentioned on this forum, so looking forward to trying that out.
Big foot gearstick mounts
Replace gear shift cable bushings
Replace TRD gear knob with something a bit bigger (appears I already have a quick shift kit installed) - £7 one ordered from eBay.
Change the radiator (again courage, time and money)
Change the gearbox fluid (echo above)
Have a go at cleaning the headlamps - not badly faded but the nearside is slightly cloudy
Grease some parts of the clutch as it's heavy and squeaky
Double-din DAB head unit - 30th birthday next year, will see to it then.
Already done:
Aero wipers
Refitted hard-top demister cable as was disconnected and not routed properly.
Reattached the strap to remove the 'ears' and reattached the parcel shelf.
Cleaned the MAF and reset the ECU as the car was hesitating in third around 3k rpm when I first picked it up.
Cleaned up the TTE exhaust tips
Today's quick mod (stole the idea from Patrick's car): 16mm on/off switch, soldered the lugs and crimped bullet connectors on the other ends of some 16 gauge wire. Unfortunately my 14mm hole saw is of the long variety, so due to the angle the hole is slightly oval and too big at the top. Either way, it's more or less out of sight and the switch is firmly in place and not rotating. I've lucked in with the wiring by complete chance, so I is aerial on, and O is aerial off. The wire's also neatly tucked out of the way since this pic.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/dell/328CD73E-A4D1-4F23-8D75-63BF69558A3F_zpslkmmeoir.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/dell/328CD73E-A4D1-4F23-8D75-63BF69558A3F_zpslkmmeoir.jpg.html)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/dell/809AB748-496C-41F1-939B-4EBE5A13AD84_zpsanhbyoqc.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/dell/809AB748-496C-41F1-939B-4EBE5A13AD84_zpsanhbyoqc.jpg.html)
Welcome along, now don't go copying anything else Patrick does s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Try and make it along to some North East meets next year and you will discover more really useful things to do with your 2 s:D :D s:D
Dependant on budget of course s8) 8) s8)
I think Joe will avoid any NE meets Stew in case he runs into me and I take up his life again haha!
Even Helen was like, "dude I think the poor guy was trying to get away".
Sorry Joe! I get carried away s:) :) s:)
Like the mods but it's starting to look like at this rate stews blue and my silver car will be the odd one's out amongst the sea of sable and black mr2's at the north east meets. s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "mulaz"Like the mods but it's starting to look like at this rate stews blue and my silver car will be the odd one's out amongst the sea of sable and black mr2's at the north east meets. s:D :D s:D
Got a problem with that? Move down south. s:D :D s:D
Nah! Never . Funny is nearly bought my brother-in --laws red sable off him a few months ago haha s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "shnazzle"I think Joe will avoid any NE meets Stew in case he runs into me and I take up his life again haha!
Even Helen was like, "dude I think the poor guy was trying to get away".
Sorry Joe! I get carried away s:) :) s:)
Ha not at all, I think I was just getting concerned at the amount of potential work the car was going to need - 'minor' jobs can end up taking hours as I'm sure you're well aware!
Hard top is going back on tonight, will get a final couple of runs out over the weekend and Monday/Tuesday before starting the more involved stuff.
Volvo/Philips 'woox' subwoofer and amp fitted in the rear driver's side bin. Hacksawed the un-even mounting lugs off the back of the box, the fronts are screwed into a baton, and there's a hooked clip on the left side. Cheated a little bit as I've completely misplaced the only other bracket I had lying around after bending it, so I've just driven a screw in at an angle.
Not the neatest of installs and unless I'm blind, I couldn't see an obvious way to route into the bin without going through the gap in the door. It makes an impressive difference with the engine off, will see what it's like out on the road tomorrow.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/dell/5FA0E813-A146-4D82-A333-A4EFA794B430_zpsmhhpd0xz.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/dell/5FA0E813-A146-4D82-A333-A4EFA794B430_zpsmhhpd0xz.jpg.html)
Since previous update:
Fitted the metal gear cable bushings - makes a massive difference to finding 1st/reverse. Hopefully going to buy and fit the metal cage mounts too.
Fitted LEDs to replace the dashboard bulbs.
Today - fitted a new timing chain tensioner seal as there was a fairly obvious oil leak and had been picked up on previous MOTs.
Took the opportunity to fit the original facelift stereo around to the single din fascia as I hated how it looked without. I was looking at buying a Pioneer 8700DAB as I'm struggling to find anything that has:
A) DAB
2) Bluetooth with AVRCP 1.5
3) Perhaps more crucially, a user interface/display that doesn't look like it's come off a 1990s Kenwood. I had a Pioneer in the mid 2000s that had a full pixel display - can't understand why most of the sub-£150 ones still have a calculator-esque display.
But, having fitted the cheapo UI-160 properly in its place, to be honest, with the iPlayer Radio app and Deezer, other than the convenience, I think I'll save the £120 odd and stick with what I've got.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/dell/2512265C-68FB-42EA-8CFE-5852A4B239FC_zps6drt6itm.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/dell/2512265C-68FB-42EA-8CFE-5852A4B239FC_zps6drt6itm.jpg.html)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/dell/B101123B-9421-47B7-B76B-050BE0FE177B_zps79ynqw4t.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/dell/B101123B-9421-47B7-B76B-050BE0FE177B_zps79ynqw4t.jpg.html)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/dell/36BF58C5-67DF-40DC-A50B-20692868FAD5_zpstmj7soyb.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/dell/36BF58C5-67DF-40DC-A50B-20692868FAD5_zpstmj7soyb.jpg.html)
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To do list:
Fit new radiator (purchased and currently sat in the porch).
Change coolant
New aux belt
Pre-cat removal
Polish the headlights
Adjust the handbrake (potentially new handbrake cable which would be a kicker financially).
To buy list:
USB power bank / jump starter
Some kind of phone holder - my go-to option of a Kenu Airframe won't work in the MR2
Car is currently SORN'd until at least January so gives me some time to work on it.
Haven't had much time as we've been concentrating on doing up the house.
Polished the headlights using the cheapo eBay kit and some autosol which has worked a treat.
Just purchased a new air filter, negative battery terminal quick-disconnect ( to save the alarm draining the battery ), some 'xenon look' sidelights (have the same fitted on the Mini) and some nightbreaker H7s. After much thought, decided not to put LED sidelights in, in case they go. Aux belt also purchased.
Have put a pair of LED bulbs on the numberplate bulbs - slightly surprised to see they both mount pointing towards the offside but still seems to light up OK).
Slightly concerned I may be throwing good money after bad but I guess if I'm planning to keep the car for a few years it's worth it.
The oil tensioner I did is fine, have noticed with the new metal bushings shifting into 3rd and 5th can be more difficult than 2nd, 4th and 6th. Have just bought a couple of clamps from Toolstation so while I'm doing the air filter, tempted to get the gear cables back off and check everything is as level as it can be. Still need to change the gearbox oil too so it could be down to that.
Couldn't get even close to moving the shift cables back off the gearbox, never mind. Took a couple of quick videos with the phone while changing at the box and it doesn't look as though the bearings spin much so I trust they're all ok.
Changed the air filter for a paper one - long Facebook comment chain later (thanks all involved) it looks as though there was an uprated filter on there previously.
Surprises me somewhat the car doesn't seem to be previously owned on this site (given the tte bits and other mods) but doesn't matter.
Fitted the battery isolator switch, and as well as the filter, tonight I've put osram cool blue sidelights in and night breakers. The sidelights are white-ish - I've currently got the same to complement the factory xenons fitted to the mini. The h7 night breakers are a bit more yellow but after fiddling with those clips they won't be coming back out unless they blow.
Still to fit: aux belt, new spark plugs.
Haven't done the radiator yet, to be honest with the frunk cover off it looks as though it's been replaced previously. The air con condenser looks bad from the front but ok from behind.
Pre cat removal booked in for early Jan, then I'll be back out on the roads. Also need to change gearbox oil and adjust handbrake
Spark plugs done - bought a new socket and of course first thing that happened was the rubber insert got left behind on the first plug I did! Anyway sorted that and pushed it back in, all done. Old plugs looked OK but for £7.50 seemed worthwhile swapping. Also found after a trawl through my Halfords socket set that I had both spark plug sockets already, having bought a new one -_-
Handbrake - read the posts on here and IMOC for hours. Did the caliper piston wind in/back out 180 trick so they're both correct now.
In the end, despite being able to free the lever on the driver's side, it would seem the cable is too stretched and knackered to be of any use. Manually engaging the lever with a G clamp on the driver's side (post-adjustment) locks the handbrake properly so it can only be the cable at fault.
Interestingly it looks like I've got red stuff pads on the car. I do find it slightly strange the car isn't seemingly known on this site or Facebook given the mods but doesn't matter.
Had the precats out - manifold was replaced by Dick and I've also had Herth and Buss handbrake cables fitted (£45 for the cables).
I've taken apart the rear brakes (all bar stripping down the piston itself) and greased everything. Handbrake is now much better albeit I don't think it'll ever be 100%, particularly on the driver's side. Need to replace both rear slider bolts and replace a boot at the top, obtained the parts from Toyota for approx £14.
Turned out the flange on my TTE was rotten and nothing left of it. The flexis on the cat were on the way out too.
Been to the exhaust doctor in Newcastle, £280 lighter (inc. paying for a cat for £130 off eBay) but it's probably running and sounding the best since I've owned it.
Starting to turn into an absolute money pit though - I'm down £700 in total already.
Just think what a bargain you had buying it, so all in all you've still got a (relatively) cheap car that is amazing and will last a good while now s:) :) s:)
I hope so, just done 20 miles up to Blyth, up to Deleval Hall, then back via the Beehive. Put a smile back on my face at least, hopefully this will all be worth it s:) :) s:)
Still don't think my TTE matches the burble of yours but at least it's all secure now!
Since the last post - stripped down and greased the front brakes as well. New slider pins all around as the nearside clearly hadn't slid in years, lord knows how it was getting through MOTs.
Washed the car for the first time since I've owned it - whoops! In fairness it's been living in the garage.
Power steering fluid changed as per another thread.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/k610/205E6D3A-3843-40CA-82F3-DBF5E1B63415_zpshjhobuzf.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/k610/205E6D3A-3843-40CA-82F3-DBF5E1B63415_zpshjhobuzf.jpg.html)
It's got far too many miles, it's covered in stone chips low down on the bumper, and the bumper is misaligned, but it's still my (knackered) pride and joy.
Some of the excess bumper and trim gel on the hood seems to have come off in the wash, so just going to keep working at it and hopefully it'll clear. Won't be using it again either way.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/k610/08D081EB-A8B7-42E6-BA1F-1C396A5F51A6_zps5c4prejq.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/k610/08D081EB-A8B7-42E6-BA1F-1C396A5F51A6_zps5c4prejq.jpg.html)
Properly fitted my blanking plates, seem to have got the soft top demister working again after checking the voltage, and a little more excitingly, fitted my new larger wind deflector following this guide
m http://www.keytechniques.net/Wind-Deflector.html (http://www.keytechniques.net/Wind-Deflector.html) m
Left the white protective film inside the letters on, quite like it. I've gone for it so that the text can be read by anyone following, and it's the right way round in my rear view mirror
Hasn't bloody stopped raining down in Chesterfield all morning!
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/k610/186A06BB-58E8-41F3-A655-67E25BB79FBF_zpsisrzhooe.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/k610/186A06BB-58E8-41F3-A655-67E25BB79FBF_zpsisrzhooe.jpg.html)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/k610/28BEDA32-CB32-40E9-B887-3E15110FC495_zpsmnzobxd1.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/k610/28BEDA32-CB32-40E9-B887-3E15110FC495_zpsmnzobxd1.jpg.html)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/k610/2B599C48-A7F5-422F-9B55-292D52C177E7_zps8ja1vmyy.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Bossworld/media/k610/2B599C48-A7F5-422F-9B55-292D52C177E7_zps8ja1vmyy.jpg.html)
Joe are you going to use the rest of that bottle of power steering fluid?
I'll do your aux belt if I can have that s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"Joe are you going to use the rest of that bottle of power steering fluid?
I'll do your aux belt if I can have that s:) :) s:)
Yes more than happy with a swap, was going to offer anyway, but wasn't sure how many miles we're all waiting on me to do first, to check it won't blow up lol
Quote from: "Bossworld"Quote from: "shnazzle"Joe are you going to use the rest of that bottle of power steering fluid?
I'll do your aux belt if I can have that s:) :) s:)
Yes more than happy with a swap, was going to offer anyway, but wasn't sure how many miles we're all waiting on me to do first, to check it won't blow up lol
Good point. I'll wait s:) :) s:) haha. THere's really no rush. Wasn't planning on doing it, but seeing how dark my fluid is compared to fresh it's just...nice s;) ;) s;)
Well, £295 on a new subframe later, £10 on Hammerite and cavity sealant, and £350 of labour later, I think we finally have a car that's good to drive. Offset the cost by selling my hard top I suppose but I'm happy with just having the soft top.
The mechanic had to get two bits on the rear re-machined by a friend down the same industrial estate (assuming some form of suspension component or arm) - possibly could have been cheaper from a breaker but too late now.
Brake lines checked and replaced as appropriate, apparently it was mainly surface rust.
The rear brake pads have also been replaced but I'll need to do the 180 degree rotation thing as I've now got no handbrake at all.
Clutch was given a clean bill of health albeit it still squeaks! He wasn't particularly enamored with the idea of metal bushings for the gear cables due to the added strain/lack of flex but I'll see how they work over the summer and possibly swap to polybush (if I can remove the others).
Other than that I believe all is well with the car, did 150 miles back from Chesterfield without missing a beat and it just feels so much more planted/safer/stable at 70mph for having had the subframe and the other bits done. MOT is due in June so that'll be the big verdict.
Mum also put 100 miles on my car just for the fun of driving it, and ended up getting her own as a result. Either way I'm happy with the PAS fluid swap.
So, a week's troublefree commuting - ish. Monday I cycled in (only the second time from this house) and got well and truly lost. Tuesday took the car in, hoping for a roof down trip home. Had a bit of sunshine but nothing to shout home about.
Had Thursday off work, as did my partner, so with our daughter in nursery we set off for Northumberland. All going well until walking back to the car I notice that the offside TTE exhaust pipe was at a rather strange angle. Gave it a quick shove and it was worryingly loose. Nipped in somewhere on the way back who said they could take a look but would be a 40 minute wait. Decided just to break it off - the clamp was rusted away to nothing so didn't take long to come off, probably took more effort to detach it from the hanger.
Had some helpful advice from the FB group and then found this thread - m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=29619 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=29619) m
The ECP clamp is still correct and was only £2. As I read further down the thread (after getting home), the Volvo gasket is a few MM too big, and so this morning I decided just to clean up the old one. I then had a look at the nearside, which although corroded was looking solid.
Took the Mini out for the big shop so while out decided to call via ECP and swap the ring for another gasket. Got home and was a pain in the backside to remove this one; the bolts had siezed with rust so I ended up using a dremel to cut through 2/3s of the bolt, then use a hacksaw blade to get the rest. Judging by how it pinged off, it was clearly under some tension.
Anyway that's both sides swapped, I'm sure I stink of exhaust fumes and it's all I can smell but from initial testing there's no leak at either clamp (sprayed GT85 liberally at both with the engine running and nothing was visible).
I set both exhaust pipes at the same height, though I must say the nearside is probably a good centimetre further inwards on the car than the offside. Can't see how this could be adjusted without it not sitting on the gasket properly, so I'm just going to leave it as-is.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hpsTwQ/17904046_10154666617723867_4228885370987902962_n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hpsTwQ) (https://thumb.ibb.co/mSQRi5/17951868_10154666617643867_4632675741612965699_n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mSQRi5)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/isDOVk/IMG_4741.jpg) (https://ibb.co/isDOVk)
Couple more bits sorted
Sourced a 'cabin' bag as suggested on the FB group, from Home Bargains - £9.99 but it's a snug fit so happy enough with that.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hLk5t5/IMG_4778.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hLk5t5)
Also tidied up my amp install, much better now. Also transpires the left channel was cutting out so I've sorted the wiring on that too.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/eEofRQ/IMG_4781.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eEofRQ)
Replaced the bumper, now JDM badged, replaced the number plates while I was at it. Took it out for a 20 mile blast to give a really good chance to properly bed in the replacement rear pads, feels much better now. First time up to 6k revs as well s:) :) s:)
Looking to swap the wheel centres out as well so watch this space
(https://preview.ibb.co/f1Xr85/IMG_4886.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hLQB85)
(https://preview.ibb.co/n6FB85/IMG_4889.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hD3bak)
photo website hosting (https://imgbb.com/)
Well done with the work, it looks really smart.
Tidy :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "Bossworld"First time up to 6k revs as well
Good lad!
I was thinking of you today (in a totally Roadster-related, non homo-erotic way) when I floored it from 4100rpm and bounced it off the limiter haha
So, since my last update.
Went for an MOT and air con recharge (spotted a groupon deal for £26). Aircon was previously making no difference but the light would at least come on and stay on, which I'm sure from another car site is a positive sign. Recharged and it's now ice cold, was just in time for ding day.
The car had no advisories, but failed on one thing, the handbrake (75kg on one side, 50 something on the other).. Was given the option of taking it home (the guy at least talked me through what he believed the Toyota process to be, which seemed broadly similar to what's on here). Said it would have passed had it locked up or something, didn't question it further (perhaps should have done) Didn't want to lose my bank holiday Monday, so gave it to them to try and sort for an hour's labour (£42).
Passed, and apparently over 100 on both sides. However, the handbrake is now crap again. Genuinely don't understand it, I had it working on steep hills, up and down on about 6 clicks before they 'fixed' it. Will maybe take to Steve at D1 if I get the opportunity, got 12 months to worry about it anyway.
Drove to Ding Day and back in a day. Filled up with 34 litres before hand (had refuelled the previous week with about £15 in). Hit 407 miles before the light came on, 412 by the time I got to a petrol station. Managed to get 39 litres in it and it was absolutely to the brim (second click). That works out as 48mpg, not bad at all for an ageing sports car.
Also had the alignment done at Demon Tweeks. They suspect the front bushes may be worn, as one of the measurements is borderline out of spec. Either way seemed a bit more positive on the 200 mile drive home, could probably still do with trying to get the wheels balanced to rule something out. Will post up the sheet if I get chance.
That's a lot of stuff done
Since the last update:
Aircon lasted ~48 hours for ding day and that was that. Had a local specialist come out (will post details up separately as he was excellent). The condenser is pretty much shot cosmetically, but it wasn't losing any noticeable pressure. The O rings fitted to the two front pipes were definitely gone, so they've been replaced. A week later I still have aircon, not sure if it's as cold as the day it was refilled, and I've lost some green gloop from the other side (presumably because the O rings are now fixed, the problem has moved on).
I picked up a brand new condensor for about 2/3rds of the Toyota price, so that's next year's task along with the new radiator/coolant.
While doing the aircon, noticed the front subframe was dripping with some kind of oil. Turned out the PAS pipes were well and truly corroded. £90 later on the eBay pattern ones and they're on, and about 600ml of Total DA fluid later there's no leak.
I've no longer got the TTE bar on which makes moving the roof up and down that bit easier, although the oversized wind deflector does get in the way. Also fitted a DAB stereo - bizarrely I think my old cheapo Pioneer one was louder/produced more bass but I probably just need time to fiddle with the settings.
Next up will be to insulate the doors, and hopefully reduce the noise when shutting the driver's door. Previously tightened all visible 10mm nuts for the window so not sure what else it could be.
Wheel centres also swapped out for old-school Toyota logos:
(https://preview.ibb.co/gpMSDQ/IMG_5203.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e93w7k)
anonymous photo sharing (https://imgbb.com/)
Oops, no update for 6 months.
Since then:
* New Pioneer DAB/Bluetooth fitted, and the subwoofer repositioned and refitted. Much better all round now.
* Doors insulated with the non-bitumen stuff
* Stripped down front brakes and Ceratec'd everything that needed it
* Fitted two rear calipers from Brakes International - the lever is now very stiff but it more or less holds (the offside still isn't wonderful I have to say, but it seems people pass MOTs with worse).
* Replaced the rocker cover gasket, air filter, PCV valve, spark plugs and chain tensioner.
* Fitted in a dashcam and wiring tucked around the screen surround.
* Garaged since the end of November and left on winter conditioner/charger! s:( :( s:(
So, I lost my air con again, probably within a week of the above post. I've purchased a new receiver/dryer, plug and filter for about £15. This is where the goop leaked out after the specialist did the last refill, and it contains two large o-rings which I'm thinking are a likely failure candidate. I'm loathe to fit £250+'s worth of new condenser to the car, so want to try this first.
--
To do currently stands at:
Oil and filter change
Fit replacement radiator, 4 x new hoses and change coolant
Attempt to fit new receiver/dryer and get air con recharged
Clean throttle body/IACV
Move the alarm and flip the spare wheel (will look at when I've got the front bumper off again)
Drill out the snapped bolts from removing the front bumper (if it's at all possible, had no luck last time I tried)
Grease the clutch pivot fork (from reading Corolla forums looks like it's do-able in situ).
Drive the damned thing (probably Feb/March!)
So...
Oil and filter change - Done
Fit replacement radiator, 4 x new hoses and change coolant - In progress
Attempt to fit new receiver/dryer and get air con recharged - To be arranged
Clean throttle body/IACV - Done
Move the alarm and flip the spare wheel (will look at when I've got the front bumper off again) - Done
Drill out the snapped bolts from removing the front bumper (if it's at all possible, had no luck last time I tried) - Done (top and bottom. 7 in total) - retapped using M5 as there's no chance in hell the old bolts were coming out.
Grease the clutch pivot fork (from reading Corolla forums looks like it's do-able in situ). - Went badly wrong and can't get the clutch slave boot or fork boot fully back in place.
Drive the damned thing (probably Feb/March!) - 1 March is the day.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/eHt2gH/E715890_A_6_D5_F_4_A72_B3_CE_07_F920_F4656_D.jpg) (http://ibb.co/eHt2gH) (http://thumb.ibb.co/ixocgH/822_B15_A6_1_BC5_4_CE9_95_BD_4_E880_AF343_F2.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ixocgH) (http://thumb.ibb.co/mXzWac/A048_AC67_A6_CC_4189_80_B4_1_B5_F95811859.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mXzWac)
Since last time:
New radiator and hoses on, full of coolant, empty of air, and drain and vents hopefully water tight.
Couldn't shift the receiver dryer from the old condenser. Unlike the Toyota repair PDFs, it takes a 14mm hex and not a 10. Problem being that after 14 years, the end cap was effectively welded in and even a proper 14mm drain plug socket was just gouging the plastic. So system evacuated and new condenser (£180 just for the part) fitted.
Clutch boots - both back on, thank the Lord. For the slave, I tried unsuccessfully with some locking tweezers. In the end I rolled the boot over itself, offered it up to the lip, and rolled it back over in one move. The fork was a little more difficult but I wedged the clutch pedal down with a brick and having removed the air intake pipe, rear x brace and battery, eventually manipulated the stubborn bastard back in place.
I also have a rather unique, butchered flip key.
Pics to follow at some point but hopefully that is everything done. The car stands me about £3k - I know that's a lot given the mileage and the bodywork isn't mint, but at least I know all the common faults have been addressed.
Air con was recharged about 3 weeks ago and is still wonderfully cool. Pricey for the condenser but well worth it.
If you're based in the North East, I can thoroughly recommend Graham at CoolAuto - http://www.coolauto.co.uk
Lovely bloke and very thorough in the work he does.
Took advantage of a cheap £22 Groupon MOT a local garage to here in April. It failed on front brake pipe corrosion and handbrake efficiency. They didn't inspire me with confidence (they were talking about rear drums for the handbrake), so I made and fitted my own new brake lines out of copper. Lost the beautiful bank holiday Saturday to doing the task, but while I was at it, fitted new front Brembo pads and stripped down/cleaned all the brake parts.
Went over to Carlisle last Saturday where Mr Sloan fitted new Borg and Beck handbrake cables. While the bin was out, took the opportunity to check and re-do some of the wiring to my sub. As it turned out, one of the channels can't have been playing properly as it's much louder now.
Took the car to ATS in Heaton for another MOT, sailed straight through with no advisories. Will be using them again in the future.
Only things I would like to do are fit a new front crash bar (have in hand, just need to get the bumper off again to fit) and while I'm at it, polish the headlights. Thinking of maybe removing them to do a proper job, but not sure how the alignment would be affected (if at all)?
Now for a summer of roof down, A/C on motoring :). :notworthy:
(https://preview.ibb.co/gCxuiy/mymr2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ekMbwJ)
Few bits today, both necessitated the bumper to be removed so had been waiting to tackle both together.
Front crash bar replaced for the slightly different design from a later (05) facelift. Note massive lamppost shaped dint in old one, trying not to think too hard about my car's previous life...
Also took both headlights out. The nearside kept building up condensation. I had polished both with autosol previously to good results, but thought I'd try the Holts kit. Got there in the end but I thought I'd knackered them at one point.
The Holts polishing pad is worse than useless and their polishing compound was leaving the headlights really cloudy seconds after they'd been washed.
In the end, redid them using the sanding pads to wet sand by hand, then using the drill and a spare polishing pad I had to go Holts liquid > t cut > children's toothpaste. Very quickly gave them a clean with 3M glass cleaner (wonderful stuff) and applied the protector and that finally worked.
(https://preview.ibb.co/johzLo/4_C73_E41_A_3_BC8_4_F27_94_C1_BB05_B660_EB4_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/enmR0o)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fTrFt8/3_A228_B71_CCBE_4_FE9_859_B_369_E00_C2_FF15.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ie2c6T)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mPQm0o/D10286_ED_46_F6_45_D0_8_E26_E150909_F5_B41.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kspDfo)
(https://preview.ibb.co/keYZmT/0_F188_F01_20_C1_4230_A3_CB_CE98_E3_BC324_F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fYekt8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/e6bWY8/D765_D65_D_DC0_F_48_A3_9454_A05_EF4739_A1_D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mJhS6T)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mFcG0o/F638_E003_48_AC_4_DCF_B85_C_92611_C2_EFAF0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bxLEmT)
Where did you get the AC condenser from? Cheers
Quote from: lamcote on May 19, 2018, 21:28
Where did you get the AC condenser from? Cheers
Eureka car parts but they've not had any more in since. £177 though :(
Think Toyota is about £230
Thanks
Still have working air con so there's a big thumbs up to replacing the condenser even at the high cost.
Clutch was replaced by a local garage today, the old one was absolutely done for. Wouldn't be surprised if it was the original.
The to-do list is theoretically complete. Theoretically because I'm not happy with how the headlights turned out. I think a thorough polishing with a better kit would resolve it, though it can wait until winter now.
Looking forward to the next five months of driving!
While the car is off road for winter I've set about replacing the lower control arms. With advice from here I've also purchased replacement track rod ends and drop links. Cost £65 for the lot.
Unfortunately it seems every bolt is welded in place with rust, luckily I've got two months left to get the job complete. If the driver's side has been this difficult I'm dreading the near side.
Managed to get the track rod end and nut off with the encouragement of a newly purchased blow torch.
I've dug out the wheel alignment from Demon Tweeks and it transpires my memory fails me and it wasn't the toe that was out. I guess that explains why it looks like the front toe hasn't been adjusted in years. Hopefully I'm not wasting my time doing this - I was getting steering wheel vibration above 60mph even after having the wheels balanced. Getting new tyres in the spring so hopefully other than worn top mounts that's all likely suspects replaced?
(https://i.ibb.co/BtSJVX4/93-C97-E73-969-D-42-BF-91-CE-8-EC055-C81-E1-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9NC09Fw)
(https://i.ibb.co/B2N8NMc/C7-E358-B4-35-AD-4143-8-C10-FFF8-BB68-E093.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zVJKJvQ)
Inner track rod is in OK condition, I left the threaded portion to soak for a couple of days to clear off some of the corrosion and was able to thread the new lock nut straight on. 20 turns of the TRE later (matching what came off) it's on.
Mapco TREs are an identical length to what came off (113mm). Other brands online are listed as either 118mm, or 95mm. I had an ABS one delivered which was 95 so that's going back to the seller.
Quote from: Bossworld on December 27, 2018, 11:23
While the car is off road for winter I've set about replacing the lower control arms. With advice from here I've also purchased replacement track rod ends and drop links. Cost £65 for the lot.
Unfortunately it seems every bolt is welded in place with rust, luckily I've got two months left to get the job complete. If the driver's side has been this difficult I'm dreading the near side.
Managed to get the track rod end and nut off with the encouragement of a newly purchased blow torch.
I'm not sure about the TRE's, but it is pretty common practice to have to angle-grind the droplink bolts off...
Quote from: BahnStormer on December 27, 2018, 12:19
Quote from: Bossworld on December 27, 2018, 11:23
While the car is off road for winter I've set about replacing the lower control arms. With advice from here I've also purchased replacement track rod ends and drop links. Cost £65 for the lot.
Unfortunately it seems every bolt is welded in place with rust, luckily I've got two months left to get the job complete. If the driver's side has been this difficult I'm dreading the near side.
Managed to get the track rod end and nut off with the encouragement of a newly purchased blow torch.
I'm not sure about the TRE's, but it is pretty common practice to have to angle-grind the droplink bolts off...
Once I ground them off I was slightly puzzled as to how to get the remains off :D. The originals (don't know if they've ever been replaced) had a flange nut on them. Even with careful use of a grinder I was left with the remains of the flange nut. Very carefully used the drill to get through the centre and was then able to unscrew the remains.
Driver's side is now complete
(https://i.ibb.co/cv6XrN0/IMG-2167.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZJB1Mh5)
Passenger side complete, see other threads for much amusement along the way. Had to replace the inner tie rod on this side too.
(https://i.ibb.co/F6Cwn9n/Screen-Shot-2019-01-11-at-21-59-24.png) (https://ibb.co/H73zX0X)
(https://i.ibb.co/VMwJc3W/IMG-2255.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DwrzHLD)
(https://i.ibb.co/nrm5dLG/IMG-2258.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kKBWbS7)
Tracking looks well and truly out :-)
Well done on breaking the clamp :notworthy:
Centre the steering wheel and set the tracking (roughly) by placing a 2x4 along each front wheel with a couple of feet sticking out towards the front and the rear. Adjust until they are parallel. Check by measuring the distance between the 2x4s at each end.
This will more than suffice until you can get it properly aligned.
Many, many brownie points for persistence!
Mad kudos Mr Mechanic!
Well done. I know where to go when I'm stuck :)
Quote from: Carolyn on January 12, 2019, 11:51
Well done on breaking the clamp :notworthy:
Centre the steering wheel and set the tracking (roughly) by placing a 2x4 along each front wheel with a couple of feet sticking out towards the front and the rear. Adjust until they are parallel. Check by measuring the distance between the 2x4s at each end.
This will more than suffice until you can get it properly aligned.
Many, many brownie points for persistence!
Ah that's interesting to know there's a DIY route. I say out, it looked like it was toeing out when the steering wheel was straight, but...
Both new tie rod ends went on 20 turns. The old one that came off the right undid 20 turns.
I temp screwed the end on and compared against the nearside rod + tre for length and it looked more or less there as a comparison.
I know there's nothing scientific and no guarantee that both inner rods are the same length; but would it be correct to assume if they were, the same number of turns would leave the wheels roughly correct when the steering wheel is centered? Or is that nonsense and a garage would have to compensate either side for adjustments to keep the steering wheel centered?
I'm not massively worried as other than a fortnightly startup, it won't move again until March and it'll be straight for four new tyres and alignment.
Thanks both. Patrick there's a blowtorch here if you ever need one, useful for freeing stuck bolts and destroying evidence.
Epic :)
Quote from: jonbill on January 12, 2019, 13:24
Epic :)
Thanks, I have to say last night, on reflection I was thinking I've well and truly made a 'mountain out of a molehill' given it's what, 4 bolts and 2 nuts? :D
Still, another lesson learned and another great example of people on the forum pitching in with ideas and help.
Someone at work who's seen the project photos on Facebook asked if I've ever had chance to drive the car ;D
Small update - changed to Borg and Beck discs all around, just standard, vented ones. Old grooved ones were looking scabby and following some bargain Amazon purchases made sense to swap them out for these coated ones. Lots of sets of pads on Amazon for a fiver at the minute, full set of four discs ran me £45.
Changed the steering union and boot out for replacement Toyota items. The part that meets the upper UJ has a double wide spline so you can't go wrong. The rack end doesn't, but I'm 90% confident I either got it right, or within one spline.
Speaking of adjustments, while doing the brakes I brought the tracking in on both sides by twice the width of a ten pence coin. It looks straighter at least.
Will be getting new tyres and a front alignment when the car is back on the road but figured a temporary neutral/toe in stance was safer than a toe out.
Quote from: Bossworld on February 12, 2019, 23:12
Someone at work who's seen the project photos on Facebook asked if I've ever had chance to drive the car ;D
Small update - changed to Borg and Beck discs all around, just standard, vented ones. Old grooved ones were looking scabby and following some bargain Amazon purchases made sense to swap them out for these coated ones. Lots of sets of pads on Amazon for a fiver at the minute, full set of four discs ran me £45.
Changed the steering union and boot out for replacement Toyota items. The part that meets the upper UJ has a double wide spline so you can't go wrong. The rack end doesn't, but I'm 90% confident I either got it right, or within one spline.
Speaking of adjustments, while doing the brakes I brought the tracking in on both sides by twice the width of a ten pence coin. It looks straighter at least.
Will be getting new tyres and a front alignment when the car is back on the road but figured a temporary neutral/toe in stance was safer than a toe out.
Nope, can't find theses bargains discses anywhere on t'Amazon my precious... not for £45 all round?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 13, 2019, 00:16
Quote from: Bossworld on February 12, 2019, 23:12
Someone at work who's seen the project photos on Facebook asked if I've ever had chance to drive the car ;D
Small update - changed to Borg and Beck discs all around, just standard, vented ones. Old grooved ones were looking scabby and following some bargain Amazon purchases made sense to swap them out for these coated ones. Lots of sets of pads on Amazon for a fiver at the minute, full set of four discs ran me £45.
Changed the steering union and boot out for replacement Toyota items. The part that meets the upper UJ has a double wide spline so you can't go wrong. The rack end doesn't, but I'm 90% confident I either got it right, or within one spline.
Speaking of adjustments, while doing the brakes I brought the tracking in on both sides by twice the width of a ten pence coin. It looks straighter at least.
Will be getting new tyres and a front alignment when the car is back on the road but figured a temporary neutral/toe in stance was safer than a toe out.
Nope, can't find theses bargains discses anywhere on t'Amazon my precious... not for £45 all round?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check the thread I made in the 'members only' events area. Amazon regularly sells the one remaining stock item at a knockdown price before it shoots back up. There's currently a single disc (different brand) for sale for £1.51 so in that scenario you'd just need to source the other single for a relatively cheap pair. Pm'd you the link
(https://i.ibb.co/jWXgkgf/5-FE3063-A-488-B-4-C08-985-C-066-E5-B69-EA7-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nnJzMzm)
The Borg and Beck fronts can be got for £35 from eBay for what it's worth - I was sent a £5 off voucher for eBay.
Remember you can include the Yaris Verso in an Amazon filtered search when looking at front discs.
All appreciated.[emoji1303]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Car is now running 4 Avon ZV7 tyres in stock facelift sizes. Rides much better particularly over bumps.
The brakes are now pretty much bedded in, 150 miles later. Will start to go harder on them as the weather improves but they feel great.
I'm in the middle of buying components for a suspension refresh. It's going to have to wait until next winter but I've got some discounts on some parts so far.
Also, swapped the steering wheel out for a Momo boss and OMP Trecento Uno wheel (300mm). It's a lot smaller than stock, but for someone of my height it makes a massive difference in the drivability of the car.
(https://i.ibb.co/Y8ZnZKV/IMG-0326.jpg)
1 x MOT failure on inside CV boot, let the garage sort that for £100 inc. gearbox oil (happy enough at that).
Had an advisory on a slightly noisy front offside wheel bearing. I'd noticed previously that the nearside looked to have been replaced. Fortunately I'd picked up a Japanparts hub brand new from Amazon for £26 a couple of months ago.
Wasn't too bad a job, some of the bolts were welded in place with rust but plenty of penetrating oil and a bit of heat + irwins and they came out.
My poor hand copped for it with the hammer, removing the old hub though.
(https://i.ibb.co/d0RJhrB/IMG-20190514-135505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bgkRfP1)
(https://i.ibb.co/yNFbprk/IMG-20190514-142919.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b658Fkv)
(https://i.ibb.co/QYH1LyN/IMG-20190514-154144.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5sjfmb8)
Long awaited suspension refresh finally complete.
Out with the old (which I'm more convinced than ever have been on 14 years/done 135k miles):
(https://i.ibb.co/nDbs6jX/IMG-20190522-100806.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cnz5mQj)
Was able to rescue my rear drop links which were changed roughly 2 years ago, so there's a few quid saved.
On with the new - bought from Tom on here having covered 15k. I've given the bases a quick lick of hammerite.
(https://i.ibb.co/7gQ21WS/IMG-20190521-175512.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LQrnZt0)
I also fitted new 'Japanparts' top mounts which are a sealed bearing, and ever so slightly taller than stock:
(https://i.ibb.co/gwBMcNL/IMG-20190521-105751.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4M5Z0zn)
(https://i.ibb.co/JxPq44S/IMG-20190521-105801.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wJ17XX2)
Initial impressions are that it seems more compliant on the roads, although I've only had a quick blast to the supermarket and back. The old top mounts were moving albeit not particularly smoothly, even after packing them with grease.
I'm sure this job is possible with just a breaker bar, but found my newly acquired windy gun made it a doddle. The only casualties were one of the speed sensor mounting bolts ( found some replacement machine screws in my toolbox which were an exact fit so took the opportunity to get rid of the cable tied effort on the other side), and one of the brake hose mounting bolts (cut a replacement M8 down to size with the grinder).
(https://i.ibb.co/3v4Lxrv/IMG-20190521-120737.jpg) (https://ibb.co/68rfKn8)
Car is now SORN'd for winter and up on four axle stands
Done
- Grease clutch pivot fork (famous last words but it looks more accessible now the car is up on all four corners) - Done - Needed two attempts. post cat O2 cable needs securing, looks like the outer covering has been touching the exhaust - Done
- air inlet looks like it needs plugging back in/aligning behind the bumper - Done
- (possibly) fit an aerial/dab splitter - Parking this one for now. Took the A pillar cover off and noticed the grounding strap wasn't fully on the metal of the body. Put it back on. Still no signal for Absolute 80s in the garage but that's nothing new.
- New instrument LEDs - done and much brighter
- speaker upgrade to Vibe components
- New sump (couple of the bolts look really rusty so hoping they don't shear)
- Replace tensioner O ring and clean up the lower block.
- Cleaned exhaust tips, replaced clamps and hangers.
- New fully synthetic oil (been running semi synth from Toyota for the last two or three services)
- New oil filter (Bosch this time)
Fortnightly start up and air con run complete. I've changed MAF for one from a breaker, noticed the air intake from the wing wasn't connected to the pipe to the Airbox so rectified that.
Also cable tied the O2 sensor while the rear light was out, as it's looking a little bit like it's been touching the exhaust in places.
Took delivery of a new clutch slave, figured while I've got the old one unbolted to grease around the pivot fork I may as well change it and the fluid. I've read that bleeding the clutch is a fun task so I've got that to look forward to.
Can't make my mind up on these DAB aerial splitters.
Today, went a bit too far, picked up a new slave for £6 from Amazon so felt I might as well do it rather than just trying greasing the fork.
The old slave wasn't in bad fettle, though interally, behind the piston and spring there was some visible corrosion, presumably from 15 years of water getting into the fluid. The hard line and the bleed nipple unbolted easily, shows the difference in comparison to brake bleeders that take the brunt of the weather
(https://i.ibb.co/JBmhHPZ/IMG-20200118-105349.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Dmwr35)
- emptied clutch master reservoir
- changed clutch slave
- greased everything
- refilled and bled system
The stuff that came out was a filthy consistency so it certainly needed doing, clutch feels light again.
But... IT STILL BLOODY SQUEAKS! If you play about with the pedal it's about at the point of engagement so I'm lost as to what's causing metal on metal squeaking. Removed the boot to grease the pivot pin, the slave is new and the contact point on the fork also got new grease.
Don't know what the top prongs of the fork connect to but guess that may be the ultimate source, in which case I'll just have to live with it as the clutch is only 6k old.
Bleeding - not as hard as people make out, with one exception. I let the system get completely dry, as I wanted the master cylinder emptied. Whoops. Couldn't get anything to draw through from the master cylinder, was about to look into bench bleeding it. But, I unhooked the cotter pin from the clutch pedal, detatched the rod, and manually actuated it by hand (wear padded gloves). Took about 20 goes, but it got fluid down the system again, and then was able to bleed as normal.
What came out
(https://i.ibb.co/YNWt9rt/IMG-20200118-101347.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kGyhndh)
Emptied and cleaned
(https://i.ibb.co/MnNPm6y/IMG-20200118-122136.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gygtxVb)
Before greasing pivot
(https://i.ibb.co/g4TZFSP/IMG-20200118-111031.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bbB5Rs2)
After
(https://i.ibb.co/HVSP8T9/IMG-20200118-112055.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c1B8nhs)
Decided to tackle the noisy clutch again. Had shot some white grease through the opening in the boot but decided that was a stupid ploy - won't know if it's caused any issue until the car's back on the road in March.
This time, unbolted the slave but left the lines attached. Tricker than it appears due to the lack of flex in the hard line.
Took the boot off again, shone the torch up using a mirror (could really do with a smaller, non-bathroom mirror :)) and it didn't seem that the grease had got to where it needed to be. Really moved the fork about this time, used cotton buds to get any remaining gunk out of the visible pivot pin. Regreased using cotton buds and really poked it around.
Put everything back together, surprisingly the boot went straight back on, even in the difficult corner.
It's now silent. I've tested it four days in a row and it's still silent. I daren't celebrate just yet, but it feels like salvation is around the corner.
--
Also noticed the DAB aerial grounding adhesive thing wasn't fully on the metal behind the A pillar trim so I've put that back down. I can't find any conclusive opinion as to whether the aerial splitters are any good so I've parked that idea for now.
Changed my instrument LEDs - see thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=68725.new#new
(https://i.ibb.co/d5gNdSb/IMG-20200129-133931.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sVHT0h5)
Decided on my speakers, then also decided rather than keeping the original wiring (where the woofers piggyback off the tweeter connector), I'd just lop it off and use BT jelly crimps to the new crossovers.
Speakers ran me £34 from Halfords after a couple of discounts, looks like they'll fit ok but I'll need to find a way to secure the tweeter to the door card. Was a bit of a struggle finding somewhere to secure the crossover and I'm concerned about water ingress but I guess we'll see.
https://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/car-speakers/vibe-slick-6-component-car-speakers
(https://i.ibb.co/C7cbSfM/IMG-20200129-141232.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1qgr4kd)
(https://i.ibb.co/wRy61Wr/IMG-20200129-141322.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hys8vW1)
Speaker swap finished
Mixed results. Did as close to an A/B test as possible by having the original kit still on the driver's side, and although the Toyota kit is undoubtedly 'muddy', and my new ones clearer, the Toyota one has more low end to it.
I suspect, that the crossovers are potentially cutting the lows off the door woofers too. Not the end of the world as I have a sub in the bins, but certainly sounds different.
First time out I reassembled the driver's side and had no sound at all. Connected up the tweeter to test, still no sound, turned out I'd not fed the cable properly into the metal teeth of the jelly crimp.
I've tucked the tweeter terminal connections under the half moon plate by the top of the grab handle, so I can easily undo them if I ever need to take the door cards off again.
Luckily the door woofers are quite nicely covered by the new plastic rings so I'm not concerned about water ingress on them. I made some little splash/drip covers over the cross overs, by cutting up a self-seal food bag lol.
I did have to use a coping saw to take a portion out of the new plastic adaptor rings as the speaker terminals were fouling them. Also found it a little tricky to line up all four holes, almost like the adaptors would be better with 16cm speakers rather than 16.5 but I believe they are just different naming conventions for the same thing.
Speaker adaptors came with some adaptor wires which I checked would definitely fit the MR2 connectors, but I've lopped them off as otherwise you're left with a redundant wire where the tweeter used to take its feed from.
Will do a more indepth write up for others to find in the future, but here's the pics
(https://i.ibb.co/1MXJbkg/IMG-20200205-121147.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YXdTbxC)
(https://i.ibb.co/VqsXBbQ/IMG-20200205-121156.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HHjmgRx)
(https://i.ibb.co/j8gFkBq/IMG-20200205-121441.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kGQF2kz)
(https://i.ibb.co/K05vbXq/IMG-20200205-122647.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DV12ztC)
(https://i.ibb.co/gvCnJZV/IMG-20200205-125554.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bHnfX5J)
Took the tailpipes off on Friday night, bought replacement clamps and rubber hangers on Saturday, polished up the tips and re-fitted this morning. It looks like exhaust gasses/vapour have speeded up corrosion of the clamps - these clamps lasted 3 years.
I added a smidge of RTV sealant to either side of the rings, we'll see how they fair this time out. The driver's side went on OK; the passenger, well, I know levelling a TTE is a dark art but perhaps due to the newer exhaust hanger I struggled with the passenger side. I know the clamp does a good job of getting everything pulled in together and tight but I'm not 100% sure that the connection and the gasket is as straight as it should be. Guess we'll see how these fair.
Also had to re-use the better condition exhaust hanger as the one at the top left of the engine bay was well and truly done for.
Also:
- Removed oil filter
- Removed sump - top tip, if you're scrapping the old sump anyway, use a hammer on the sump drain plug to break the sealant between the sump and engine. I'd put a couple of scraper blades through it as recommended by Carolyn but hitting it really speeded up the process.
- Cleaned up the edge and fitted new sump.
- Fitted a new Viton o-ring to the chain tensioner. The block has oil on it so I'm guessing it was leaking from there again but I'll find out for sure when the car's back on the road. The old o-ring seemed quite sloppy.
All that's left is to:
- Fit the new oil filter
- Make sure that the sump drain plug on the new one, is correctly torqued.
- Add oil
- Put the car back on the floor, and rock back and forth to re-engage the tensioner.
I tried turning the wheels with the car in 4th but it didn't activate the tensioner. Noticed that as one went forward, the other looked to be going the other way - is that the LSD in operation?
Good progress. Was interested in the speakers.
Give them a good working for a while and then I'd be keen to have a listen including the subwoofer.
As for the wheels turning in opposite directions, yes that's the LSD
I really need to get my exhaust off, clean it up, open it up and repack it, and sort the clamps. And wrap everything properly.
Quote from: shnazzle on February 16, 2020, 18:47Good progress. Was interested in the speakers.
Give them a good working for a while and then I'd be keen to have a listen including the subwoofer.
As for the wheels turning in opposite directions, yes that's the LSD
I really need to get my exhaust off, clean it up, open it up and repack it, and sort the clamps. And wrap everything properly.
I think they're sounding a bit better (have treated myself to a quiet 10 mins in the car listening to music the other night) but yep sure, will need to try and make it out to some kind of meet in 2020, 2019 was a quiet one for me :)
Thanks for confirmation on the LSD, thought I was seeing things at first. Probably could try and turn the crankshaft but I prefer the rock it back and forth approach so I'll do that when it's grounded again.
My biggest fear with the exhaust would be undoing/redoing where it connects to the cat, but I recall you've had a replacement more recently than me? Either way given the age of them, and the cheap price, it's worth renewing the rubbers, clamps and gaskets if nothing else. Curious to see if the silicon makes any difference, there certainly wasn't any on there from new.
Last night:
- New Bosch oil filter fitted - I now own an oil filter strap wrench so no more knocking a screwdriver through the old one to remove it next time:)
- Torqued the sump plug to 37nm (was slightly lower)
- Filled up with Castrol fully synth Magnatec C3 - have been running with the Toyota semi synth for the last couple of services
- Reinstalled dip stick
- Dropped car back down, rocked back and forth in fourth, heard the click (though always like to worry about it, so will inevitably end up taking the chain tensioner back off just to prove it had done it)
All ready to rock and roll on 1 March. I may quickly clean and re-seal the headlights before it sees the light of day again, but frankly I'm looking forward to putting all the tools away!
I've noticed a little corrosion on the battery terminals, which I guess must have happened from being left on trickle charge/conditioning. Also slightly concerned about the underside rust but we'll see what Mr MOT man says in the spring.
Started her up again yesterday. Haven't had chance to do the headlights so that'll certainly wait while it's warmer. Put all the tools away which is my most hateful part of winter maintenance!
Drove back and forth between the garage and drive way, doesn't seem to be slipping but will only know when it's out for a run (hopefully this Sunday unless we get some more terrible winter weather). I took the clutch pedal out by half a turn of the rod which has improved the bite point; perhaps I've just got used to driving the Mini again after three months.
(https://i.ibb.co/TbNqLQB/IMG-20200301-090122.jpg)
Clutch seems fine and in an attempt at a clean sweep of tempting fate: the action is great, it's not squeaking and it's back to being very light.
Transpires my DAB issues must be the 12v to 5v USB adaptor I've got hard wired via a fuse tap. Not really sure what alternatives are out there though.
It still takes longer to crank on a hot start (and that's with it being cold outside today). Does anyone have any thoughts? All I can think of is something like the charcoal cannister or an earth that's affected by heat? I swear blind the starter motor noise changed when they did the clutch but don't know enough to make an informed judgement.
I did have issues with hot starts sometimes and that turned out to be the nut holding the power connector to the starter motor was just not quite tight.
Quote from: Topdownman on March 1, 2020, 18:58I did have issues with hot starts sometimes and that turned out to be the nut holding the power connector to the starter motor was just not quite tight.
Cheers mate I'll check that one out
Well, it's the end of the road for me as an MR2 owner. 14,000 miles in four years is probably less than expected and I've enjoyed doing this project (save for the difficulties caused by rusty bolts). Had some fantastic runs out through the Scottish Borders too.
'Tiny car' is now in the hands of his new owner, complete with black hard top and other than TTE banana, TTE exhaust and badge changes, pretty much back to stock. Crystal clear new headlights on too.
Thanks everyone it's been great fun
(https://i.ibb.co/k4qD8kj/1-DF3-B17-D-804-C-4-A45-ADF5-AB92826043-CA.jpg)
Go well sir. Thank you for all your contribution, company and generosity.
:) Fair play you have in your time done some great work on your 2 and have good input in the club.
must be hard to see it go to new owner when you now have such a spot on 2.
the new owner should be well happy with it for sure 8)
at least for now you still got the other 2 to look at may be the odd drive out.
stick with us and pop up some comments from time to time too. ;D ;D