Hello guys,
Im new to the forum and im trying to calculate my costs and from where to source the parts.
Im aiming at 280-300 horses on the wheels. I dont want to go with a kit and would like to get GTX 2860 turbo and to have full spin around 3500 rpm.
So parts that id need:
Low compression pistons - i can order from m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com) m
Forged rods - I think somebody on the forum could offer some nice ones
ARP head studs - m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com) m
Uprated valve springs - Do i need these if im not going to raise the rpm limit? - m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com) m
Lighter flywheel - pros and cons - i think i dont need one and if i do somebody will make my stock one lighter
Uprated clutch - here im clueless - what clutches do the turbo guys use? m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com) m Have some but the name seems dodgy. Gorilla??
AEM EMS4
I think id need to replace some bearings to some stronger ones if anybody can give a recommendation would be nice. - i dont remember where but some guy suggested better bearings for the rods???
Id need to rebuild the tranny - any suggestions on gears?
I think id need to replace some bearings to some stronger ones if anybody can give a recommendation would be nice.
Other than that i dont want to go with a kit coz i will be doing W2A and will get some 600 hp rated kit from frozenboost. But if i can find something like SP240 kit or something 2nd hand id snatch it and add the missing parts. I cant find turbo manifold in Europe, any ideas from where to get one?
So all written I would like to order these parts from Europe so i can lower the cost a bit and not pay vat and shipping on top of US ones. Any ideas where to look for them?
Every input is appreciated and also if i need to add something on the list just let me know. I was hoping to build the engine for like 750-800 pounds and to budget 2000 pounds for turbo setup. The work i will be doing with a friend of mine during the winter.
Have a look here
l viewtopic.php?f=7&t=60702 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=60702) l
Useful resource for parts sourcing
Forged rods being about 600 of that 700-800 parts budget, and the 700 quid JUBU gears you'll need to handle that power makes me think you need to up your budget by about 2 grand.
That's a hell lot of power at the wheels to demand from the 2.
Rods, valves, cams, pistons, associated block work, bearings, bolts, turbo, manifold, exhaust, intake, ecu, clutch, uprated gears, sundries, gauges, bigger wheels/tyres, etc etc. I really can't see this sit below 4k but I'm very often wrong. Just from all the info on the forum.
Rods.
Have a word with TCB here on the forum.
They sorted me forged rods for less than 400.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Forged rods being about 600 of that 700-800 parts budget, and the 700 quid JUBU gears you'll need to handle that power makes me think you need to up your budget by about 2 grand.
That's a hell lot of power at the wheels to demand from the 2.
Rods, valves, cams, pistons, associated block work, bearings, bolts, turbo, manifold, exhaust, intake, ecu, clutch, uprated gears, sundries, gauges, bigger wheels/tyres, etc etc. I really can't see this sit below 4k but I'm very often wrong. Just from all the info on the forum.
I can lower the power requirements for a start to 220-240 whp. Do i really need cams, valves and gears for that?
Wheels and tyres will be on another budget and i was also thinking to try and find 2nd hand low miles turbo. The rods that i saw on the forum were about 250 something and id need pistons, i sent an email to mahle but no answer. Ideally id like to do rods, pistons, bearings, head bolts and new gaskets but that will be about it for the engine. Injectors of course but they are cheap around here. I have a low miler shortblock engine ~ 90k kms.
Can you help me on the bearings, what to order the link can be from MonkeyWrench?
Also any source for clutches?
For the Ecu it will depend on my tuner or i can go full retard with Haltech and tune it myself with the proper gauges.
Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.
For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.
Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.
Quote from: "m1tch"Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.
For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.
Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.
Thanks,
You are paying the import stuff anyways unless when the parts are manufactured in UK and i think i have found a way to have lower tax and if its the case i will let you know and i will be able to source some parts for you. I want to build the engine a bit coz i want to try and learn how to drift s:D :D s:D and yeah, i know this is not the best car for it but just to have the possibility.
Quote from: "m1tch"Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.
This was my main reason for saying 600,but Scotte is right, TCB did an amazing offer not long ago for the 400 mark.
200whp is no problem on stock internals and bigger injectors. Even within the range of a piggyback which you could go full retard on s:) :) s:)
At 200whp you might be pushing that 250ft/lb torque "limit" of the rods and gearbox a tiny bit, but some good tuning, boost control and right foot management should solve that.
The SP240 kit has 440cc injectors on a piggyback ECU on fully stock block and it's stable as can be.
Leethesparky's car is running a bit heavier I think and isn't showing any signs of issues.
It's once you cross that 250ft/lb threshold where things start to become expensive, or risky anyway.
Sadly MWR really has the best gear. Toyota stock bearings are grand from what I've seen
Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "m1tch"Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.
For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.
Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.
Thanks,
You are paying the import stuff anyways unless when the parts are manufactured in UK and i think i have found a way to have lower tax and if its the case i will let you know and i will be able to source some parts for you. I want to build the engine a bit coz i want to try and learn how to drift s:D :D s:D and yeah, i know this is not the best car for it but just to have the possibility.
You mention drifting, you need to find a different car to learn to drift in - the mid engined rear layout means that you get snap overstear meaning that its not that controllable as the 'pivot point' for the car is in the centre whereas front engined rear drive cars 'pivot' around the front and they are much more controllable. There is a drift bible by Keiichi Tsuchiya who drifts both rwd, awd and mid engined cars and shows the technique but its very different. Best to get yourself an MX5, 3 series or Volvo to learn in, the MR2 is good for the track rather than drift.
I am building my own engine at the moment - first time build for me but wanted to learn on my spare car, suggest you sit down and work out exactly what you are after, don't just go out and buy things right off the bat - unfortunately our MR2s don't have a huge aftermarket range and there are a few suspension items that are fixed as standard.
What is your budget? £10k?
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "m1tch"Give TCB (in the affiliates section) a PM, they have rods and pistons etc.
For low 200s you should be ok on stock internals, stock cam etc, piggyback or standalone ECU is a must though - check out leethesparkys thread as he is running on stock internals with around the same power.
Don't forget about the import duty and taxes for anything from MWR - its why I am sourcing all parts from the UK.
Thanks,
You are paying the import stuff anyways unless when the parts are manufactured in UK and i think i have found a way to have lower tax and if its the case i will let you know and i will be able to source some parts for you. I want to build the engine a bit coz i want to try and learn how to drift s:D :D s:D and yeah, i know this is not the best car for it but just to have the possibility.
You mention drifting, you need to find a different car to learn to drift in - the mid engined rear layout means that you get snap overstear meaning that its not that controllable as the 'pivot point' for the car is in the centre whereas front engined rear drive cars 'pivot' around the front and they are much more controllable. There is a drift bible by Keiichi Tsuchiya who drifts both rwd, awd and mid engined cars and shows the technique but its very different. Best to get yourself an "car with engine in wrong place", 3 series or Volvo to learn in, the MR2 is good for the track rather than drift.
I am building my own engine at the moment - first time build for me but wanted to learn on my spare car, suggest you sit down and work out exactly what you are after, don't just go out and buy things right off the bat - unfortunately our MR2s don't have a huge aftermarket range and there are a few suspension items that are fixed as standard.
What is your budget? £10k?
For a start power wise i would like to up to 3k-3.5k lets say. That includes engine and turbo setup, everything else would come after that. I already have TTE lowering + TTE exhaust that i would like to use with the turbo and i know that this will mean custom downpipe but it can be done. After that i will go for full under bracing, upgraded rollbars and hardtop. Some better aero and other stuff are in line too.
I want to sort the power first coz it feels a lot slower compared to my other car and im used to having a little more power on the go.
Long term plans will include fully built 2zz and twin scroll turbo together with 2nd res for methanol. There is a lotus built like this, with compound system thats at 680 hp(i dont know if wheel hp or crank).
What about clutch setups? Im down on the cast manifold from the thread that Essex2Visuvesi linked and im in some facebook groups and will look for piggyback and turbo from there. Cooling will be ordered from frozenboost and i will sort the piping myself.
P.S. I already went in a bent sideways, it was fun. s:D :D s:D Drifting will be just because the car can do it but will be mainly for track and some "canyon" drives. I got some rly nice roads to do so around here.
I'll be watching your build thread s:) :) s:) Sounds interesting for sure.
The TTE exhaust is known to be rather heavy and restrictive by the way. Although it does have the best sound s:) :) s:) It might struggle going over 180whp
Quote from: "shnazzle"I'll be watching your build thread s:) :) s:) Sounds interesting for sure.
The TTE exhaust is known to be rather heavy and restrictive by the way. Although it does have the best sound s:) :) s:) It might struggle going over 180whp
Im still not that much into details like my other car but i will get up to speed s:) :) s:) The sound is indeed awesome bu if it needs going it will go on its way to ebay or to the private sales section s:D :D s:D
I have fully modified civic 2.2 iCTDI with hybrid turbo and everything. Its at 460 nm and 210 hp(still needs some mapping) and its quite nice on the road and i can impress some beemers s:D :D s:D Also im well aware that im not going to reach 460 nm in the Mr2 but i dont need that much anyways. The civic is heavier by 350 kgs at least.
The plans for now are to collect all the parts that i need and to start ordering them after new year. Build will start around march and till the end of april should be completed. Mid May id like to be mapped and running s:) :) s:)
I have seen that Lotus, he changed back to a single turbo rather than twin charging it - the car was then in an accident so he rebuilt the car into something even more lightweight - look up 'The worlds fastest Lotus' on Youtube.
Here is the car now:
m https://jalopnik.com/the-worlds-fastest ... 1662627938 (https://jalopnik.com/the-worlds-fastest-lotus-is-back-1662627938) m
I would also look at the overall weight of the car, its free to remove weight - I have removed about 65kg from my car and it still looks pretty much stock and has made a difference even at stock power (even with the engine on 175k miles).
If you are initially looking to keep the stock block I would go with:
Standalone ECU/mapping - Power FC/AEM EMS4/Link - I have a Power FC sitting in a box at the moment which I might decide to sell as I think I am going for the AEM - Budget for around £1.5k inc mapping
Wideband O2 sensor - so nothing melts or goes bang
Turbo manifold - T3 flange, cast manifold was around 100 euros (link in my thread although have yet to buy it), might be more if you want to go with a T25 flange.
Turbo - if going for a T25 flange turbos will be cheap, the T25 was on the 200sx S13 so lots of people upgrade from
those.
Turbo downpipe - custom, I will be going to initially bolt it to my TTE exhaust as well to get it running but the exhaust system will need to be custom made.
Charge cooler
Injectors + pump - should be fine on the stock returnless system for the time being, upgrade injectors and fuel pump and get a boost referenced FPR - injectors can be scaled in the standalone ECU.
MAF - the stock MAF can max out, either run with an ECU that allows it to be eliminated or fit a Subaru MAF and rescale in the ECU.
A side note - I went with an MR2 as my project car as it was light weight to start out with, using an online calculator for power to weight and 1/4 mile times etc I found that running the car at 950kg and around 325bhp it would have the same power to weight as a R35 GTR Nismo as an example.
You also mention about wanting to upgrade to a 2zz engine - a built 1zz engine will have as much power as a built 2zz engine, just without the headache of doing an engine swap and then building up the 2zz etc. The 2zz engine is also heavier and has other issues such as the bores are MMC meaning you can't rebore it and there are limited options for pistons unless you spend out and go for dry sleeves unlike the 1zz.
Avoid TTE exhaust if you want good power from a turbo setup.
Aim for 250bhp flywheel for starters. It really is bloody quick.
I sold my turbo and bought a V6. Lovely torque.
Could be worth looking into a 2GR engine swap rather than a mental turbo kit.
They make 300 bhp at the fly stock and enough torque to pull a lorry.
Also consider a 2zz with a rotrex supercharger 350bhp at the fly on stock internals has been done.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Avoid TTE exhaust if you want good power from a turbo setup.
Aim for 250bhp flywheel for starters. It really is bloody quick.
I sold my turbo and bought a V6. Lovely torque.
Could be worth looking into a 2GR engine swap rather than a mental turbo kit.
They make 300 bhp at the fly stock and enough torque to pull a lorry.
Also consider a 2zz with a rotrex supercharger 350bhp at the fly on stock internals has been done.
^^^^
Listen to this man s:) :) s:)
I would also suggest checking out some of the supercharger options as it gives a more linear power delivery vs a turbo - might be a good option to simply bolt on a supercharger to start with and then go turbo for the higher bhp builds with a built engine.
m http://www.turbomotor.dk/contents/da/d28.html (http://www.turbomotor.dk/contents/da/d28.html) m
2nd top to bottom is just 53 euros and looks good s:D :D s:D From the pics doesnt look that bad, any idea if the tubo will be up or down mounted and should i just get it?
Here is the T3 cast manifold I will probably be going with:
m http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/ (http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/) m
The turbo will be mounted below the manifold - not sure there is space to mount it upside down!
How much is postage on that one you found? I did find that manifold a while back but can't remember why I decided to not go for it - perhaps it cause I needed a larger T3 flange for my power goals.
Quote from: "m1tch"Here is the T3 cast manifold I will probably be going with:
m http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/ (http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/) m
The turbo will be mounted below the manifold - not sure there is space to mount it upside down!
How much is postage on that one you found? I did find that manifold a while back but can't remember why I decided to not go for it - perhaps it cause I needed a larger T3 flange for my power goals.
I will be going with this sweet manifold too, any idea what clutch to use?
And also do we know which box that was fitted with 2zz or 1zz was stronger so that we can use one? I had a look on the JUBU gears but 1.2k dollars for just the gears is a bit too much for my taste.
I have almost everything sorted in my head and i know what im going to do. Just need to sort tranny and clutch for up to 300 lbf and to retain a light pedal feel and no excessive tranny noise.
P.S. I would like to avoid upgrading to tranny from turbo mr 2 coz of the weight of the thing.
Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "m1tch"Here is the T3 cast manifold I will probably be going with:
m http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/ (http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/) m
The turbo will be mounted below the manifold - not sure there is space to mount it upside down!
How much is postage on that one you found? I did find that manifold a while back but can't remember why I decided to not go for it - perhaps it cause I needed a larger T3 flange for my power goals.
I will be going with this sweet manifold too, any idea what clutch to use?
And also do we know which box that was fitted with 2zz or 1zz was stronger so that we can use one? I had a look on the JUBU gears but 1.2k dollars for just the gears is a bit too much for my taste.
I have almost everything sorted in my head and i know what I'm going to do. Just need to sort tranny and clutch for up to 300 lbf and to retain a light pedal feel and no excessive tranny noise.
P.S. I would like to avoid upgrading to tranny from turbo mr 2 coz of the weight of the thing.
It's either e153 or jubu gears mate.
Or, as said, bring the torque in very slowly. Map it so it never exceeds 250ish ft/lb. Bit pointless.
Oh, and I think with 300ft/lb torque and equivalent hp, the extra weight of the e153 really won't hold you back too much s:) :) s:)
Stock box - 250 ft/lbs - Lotus guys break the stock box with the stock engine sometimes - Free/need a pile of spare gearboxes in the garage
JUBA/SSC gears - rated to 295 ft/lbs and apparently holds over 500bhp - around £1k per set of 3rd and 4th gear
E153 - rated for big BHP but are expensive, MWR does a kit for $5,600. box is heavy and doesn't have the best ratios
Quaife sequential - top end box at around $11k
I am going for the option to rebuild my gearbox with JUBA gears which should be slightly over rated for the power I am going for.
The more i read on tuning and things for our sweet cars the more im getting confident in k20 swap and then turbo. Logic is that it has huge aftermarket support and things are way cheaper. Toyota has very limited choice and its pretty much 2 times more expensive than k20 stuff.
I have to read more on e153 but i saw some kit for 2+k on monkeywrench site and if you add that to the engine build one could do k20 swap for such cash or even k20/24 frank that will be around 300 hp and 200 lbf torque. On top of that with 7-8 psi k20/24 frank can go 400+ hp and k20 will go around 320-330 hp with no gearbox issues. More stuff to research s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "m1tch"Stock box - 250 ft/lbs - Lotus guys break the stock box with the stock engine sometimes - Free/need a pile of spare gearboxes in the garage
JUBA/SSC gears - rated to 295 ft/lbs and apparently holds over 500bhp - around £1k per set of 3rd and 4th gear
E153 - rated for big BHP but are expensive, MWR does a kit for $5,600. box is heavy and doesn't have the best ratios
Quaife sequential - top end box at around $11k
I am going for the option to rebuild my gearbox with JUBA gears which should be slightly over rated for the power I am going for.
What kind of clutch are u going to use?
K20 is beautiful but factor in the cost of the custom axels. Also about 1 to 1.2k. There's your jubu gears.
Mattperformance was running his 400+ hp machine on those fine.
It's where you want to end up I guess.
If you're reaching for the stars, go k20/k24, swallow the upfront cost and know you're good for future super performance.
But know that even 250hp in the 2 is a handful.
Quote from: "shnazzle"K20 is beautiful but factor in the cost of the custom axels. Also about 1 to 1.2k. There's your jubu gears.
Mattperformance was running his 400+ hp machine on those fine.
It's where you want to end up I guess.
If you're reaching for the stars, go k20/k24, swallow the upfront cost and know you're good for future super performance.
But know that even 250hp in the 2 is a handful.
Id like to keep it as much toyota as possible im not a fan of different brands mixed in a single car. For now more and more research s:) :) s:) ) i think jubu will be cheaper if purchased from germany and im traveling to berlin quite often so it worths a try. Just need to set my eyes on a clutch now.
I think most usually go with an ACT clutch and lighter flywheel, see below for the MWR clutches - they have the torque ratings as well, JUBA gearsets are rated to 295 ft/lbs so bear that in mind with the clutch.
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... onverters/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product-category/celica/celicadrivetrain/celicaclutchestorqueconverters/) m
Basically you are looking for a sprung puck clutch rather than organic if you are wanting to go for higher power but still drive it on the street so for the ACT clutches probably a HDG6 or XTG6.
Pressure Plates:
Heavy Duty – HD
– Clamps load increase of 20% to 50%
– Pedal feels stock to moderate
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Xtreme – XT
– Clamps load increase of 50% to 120%
– Pedal feels moderate to stiff
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Discs:
Performance – SS
– Recommended for Street and Race
– Smooth engagement
– Easiest on transmission
– Longest lasting compound for street
– Most popular choice
Spring Centered (4 Pad) – G4
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G6 for high rpm shifting
Spring Centered (6 Pad) – G6
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G4 for handling extreme heat and punishment
Solid Hub (4 Pad) – R4
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Fastest shifts, low inertia
– Good durability but shortened spline life
– Very harsh engagement, chatter
Solid Hub (6 Pad) – R6
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Faster shifts, reduced inertia
– Very good durability but shortened spline life
– Absorbs more heat than 4 pad
– Harsh engagement, chatter
Quote from: "m1tch"I think most usually go with an ACT clutch and lighter flywheel, see below for the MWR clutches - they have the torque ratings as well, JUBA gearsets are rated to 295 ft/lbs so bear that in mind with the clutch.
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... onverters/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product-category/celica/celicadrivetrain/celicaclutchestorqueconverters/) m
Basically you are looking for a sprung puck clutch rather than organic if you are wanting to go for higher power but still drive it on the street so for the ACT clutches probably a HDG6 or XTG6.
Pressure Plates:
Heavy Duty – HD
– Clamps load increase of 20% to 50%
– Pedal feels stock to moderate
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Xtreme – XT
– Clamps load increase of 50% to 120%
– Pedal feels moderate to stiff
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Discs:
Performance – SS
– Recommended for Street and Race
– Smooth engagement
– Easiest on transmission
– Longest lasting compound for street
– Most popular choice
Spring Centered (4 Pad) – G4
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G6 for high rpm shifting
Spring Centered (6 Pad) – G6
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G4 for handling extreme heat and punishment
Solid Hub (4 Pad) – R4
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Fastest shifts, low inertia
– Good durability but shortened spline life
– Very harsh engagement, chatter
Solid Hub (6 Pad) – R6
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Faster shifts, reduced inertia
– Very good durability but shortened spline life
– Absorbs more heat than 4 pad
– Harsh engagement, chatter
Thanks, the Gorilla one looks tasty from the description but im not sure, have to research on internet if anybody is using it.
I would get the lightest feeling clutch that will do the job.
Heavy clutch takes the shine off for me.
Helix auto sport is what was used on a lot of the SP240 cars.
Not sure what it's torque limit is but it feels close to stock in use.
Quote from: "1979scotte"I would get the lightest feeling clutch that will do the job.
Heavy clutch takes the shine off for me.
Helix auto sport is what was used on a lot of the SP240 cars.
Not sure what it's torque limit is but it feels close to stock in use.
I know what u mean, i have really heavy clutch on my civic so i can relate. I collected all the parts and when i got the time i will list them here s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "m1tch"I think most usually go with an ACT clutch and lighter flywheel, see below for the MWR clutches - they have the torque ratings as well, JUBA gearsets are rated to 295 ft/lbs so bear that in mind with the clutch.
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... onverters/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product-category/celica/celicadrivetrain/celicaclutchestorqueconverters/) m
Basically you are looking for a sprung puck clutch rather than organic if you are wanting to go for higher power but still drive it on the street so for the ACT clutches probably a HDG6 or XTG6.
Pressure Plates:
Heavy Duty – HD
– Clamps load increase of 20% to 50%
– Pedal feels stock to moderate
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Xtreme – XT
– Clamps load increase of 50% to 120%
– Pedal feels moderate to stiff
– Many SFI Certified to insure safety
– Recommended disc: Street or Race
Discs:
Performance – SS
– Recommended for Street and Race
– Smooth engagement
– Easiest on transmission
– Longest lasting compound for street
– Most popular choice
Spring Centered (4 Pad) – G4
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G6 for high rpm shifting
Spring Centered (6 Pad) – G6
– Recommended for Road Racing and high power Street
– Increased torque capacity
– Good durability and spline life
– Somewhat harsh engagement, some chatter
– Better than G4 for handling extreme heat and punishment
Solid Hub (4 Pad) – R4
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Fastest shifts, low inertia
– Good durability but shortened spline life
– Very harsh engagement, chatter
Solid Hub (6 Pad) – R6
– Recommended for Drag and Road Racing only
– Increased torque capacity
– Faster shifts, reduced inertia
– Very good durability but shortened spline life
– Absorbs more heat than 4 pad
– Harsh engagement, chatter
Thanks, the Gorilla one looks tasty from the description but I'm not sure, have to research on internet if anybody is using it.
Don't forget those might be MWR specials rather than UK stock, look to go with a sprung clutch, solid plate is no fun for the street and multi plate clutches are a bit too loud and harsh - had an ORC 709 clutch for the RX7.
Also think about the flywheel - you could look to lighten the stock flywheel slightly or go with a lightweight one, depending on what sort of drivability you need.
I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them s:D :D s:D So Wiseco pistons to be s:) :) s:)
Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.
Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that im sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.
Quote from: "Nvy"I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them s:D :D s:D So Wiseco pistons to be s:) :) s:)
Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.
Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that I'm sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.
The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.
Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.
Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.
Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).
Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "Nvy"I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them s:D :D s:D So Wiseco pistons to be s:) :) s:)
Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.
Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that I'm sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.
The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.
Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.
Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.
Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).
Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.
There must be some kind of error here, for 6k you can get decent s2000 and for 6k i can have whatever engine i want swapped in this roadster around here. I wont be doing gears from jubu, also going to look for 2nd hand turbo with chargecooler from frozenboost. With mild engine build and chargecooler i hope to get in the 3k mark. Max that im going for is 10 psi for daily and occasionally 15-17 psi for showing off my smoking tires.
Side note: whats so expensive to get k engine in there? Axles or wiring? Engine mounts are 500$$ and axles are 900$$. You can see forged engines k20 to go around 2k pounds and its ready to be turboed once u get the cash for it. Ideally i would be able to find somebody locally to craft axles for me.
Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "Nvy"I've got a reply from Mahle on the pistons and after that i got in contact with some local dealers of Mahle and i can safely say that these guys have no idea what they are selling. I explained that i need forged stuff with low compression but they had no idea what they are selling, they dont even know whats the material thats used. All in all very poor interaction to their support and local dealers. Not to mention that the reply came 2 weeks after i wrote them s:D :D s:D So Wiseco pistons to be s:) :) s:)
Anybody here done k20/24 swap? Id love to have k20 forged with rotrex charger at 450bhp, no broken gears and happy smiles. It can also be mapped to come on boost once it hit certain rpms and vtec.
Another question: Any idea if i can source some gears from somebody for cheap, i will have somebody fabricate us stronger gears that I'm sure will come cheaper than Jubu gears. Coz its lotus is expensive AF.
The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.
Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.
Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.
Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).
Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.
There must be some kind of error here, for 6k you can get decent s2000 and for 6k i can have whatever engine i want swapped in this roadster around here. I wont be doing gears from jubu, also going to look for 2nd hand turbo with chargecooler from frozenboost. With mild engine build and chargecooler i hope to get in the 3k mark. Max that I'm going for is 10 psi for daily and occasionally 15-17 psi for showing off my smoking tires.
Side note: whats so expensive to get k engine in there? Axles or wiring? Engine mounts are 500$$ and axles are 900$$. You can see forged engines k20 to go around 2k pounds and its ready to be turboed once u get the cash for it. Ideally i would be able to find somebody locally to craft axles for me.
It's something like 1200 quid for a standard rebuild.
Add pistons and rods forged obviously that's another 1200
Then you need a turbo. Had my fill of recon so brand new that would be 800 minimum.
ECU for a forged engine would have to be £1000 plus sensors and 600 quid for mapping. Link G4 or ECUmaster black no PFC or piggyback here.
Exhaust cooler pipes manifold and labour it all soon adds up.
Do you want stiffer valve springs or a lightened crank? Maybe sleeved?
It's all money.
I don't know where you live but you won't get any engine you like in a roadster for 6k.
A 3.5L 2gr is around 5k just for the engine.
I know nothing about running Subaru Mitsubishi Honda etc but I know Toyota MR2 ZZW30 and it's bloody expensive.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "m1tch"The K swaps are quite rare and fairly expensive in the UK, its done more in the US and I think you can get a swap kit - good thing about the 2zz swap if you wanted to go that route is that it all plugs into the stock loom - you need to run an odd hybrid loom for the K swaps.
Go with Wiesco pistons - speak with TCB for the prices.
Gears will cost £££s for the JUBA gearsets but that is what you have to do - there is also SSC gearsets which are slightly cheaper but I would recommend going for the normal upgrade path.
Something to note is that you need to budget quite high if you are going to go past around 250bhp - Cheap, Fast, Reliable (choose 2).
Just an FYI, without mapping/dyno time the costs for my engine build is coming in just over £6k and that isn't including the turbo, pipework, chargecooler, exhaust etc to give some comparison.
There must be some kind of error here, for 6k you can get decent s2000 and for 6k i can have whatever engine i want swapped in this roadster around here. I wont be doing gears from jubu, also going to look for 2nd hand turbo with chargecooler from frozenboost. With mild engine build and chargecooler i hope to get in the 3k mark. Max that I'm going for is 10 psi for daily and occasionally 15-17 psi for showing off my smoking tires.
Side note: whats so expensive to get k engine in there? Axles or wiring? Engine mounts are 500$$ and axles are 900$$. You can see forged engines k20 to go around 2k pounds and its ready to be turboed once u get the cash for it. Ideally i would be able to find somebody locally to craft axles for me.
It's something like 1200 quid for a standard rebuild.
Add pistons and rods forged obviously that's another 1200
Then you need a turbo. Had my fill of recon so brand new that would be 800 minimum.
ECU for a forged engine would have to be £1000 plus sensors and 600 quid for mapping. Link G4 or ECUmaster black no PFC or piggyback here.
Exhaust cooler pipes manifold and labour it all soon adds up.
Do you want stiffer valve springs or a lightened crank? Maybe sleeved?
It's all money.
I don't know where you live but you won't get any engine you like in a roadster for 6k.
A 3.5L 2gr is around 5k just for the engine.
I know nothing about running Subaru Mitsubishi Honda etc but I know Toyota MR2 ZZW30 and it's bloody expensive.
Hey, i didnt mean to offend you in any way but from what Mitch said 6k is just the engine build and it seems a lot compared that you can buy already built engine off monkeywrench for around the same price or less, idk vat and shipping. Once im ready with prices checked i will post the total cost. Thats why i wrote u the PM about the V6 coz i wanted to know the price of the swap, i had no idea that u have so expensive engines around there.
P.S. Im also aware that toyota > honda in tuning prices and i know that i wont have a turbo for pennies.
P.S.2 Im from Sofia, Bulgaria. Mr2roc is the first forum i posted to introduce myself s:) :) s:)
I will share the reason for my 1000 questions. I want to be some kind of future proof so i will know that my money will go to the right place. I will be happy to invest 3-4k in a k20 swap and then turbo it in a year or two or have a turbo on stock internals and then go nuts with a built engine. Or best have V6 in there with 300 whp for a start and then turbo it if i get the itch for something different.
My only concern while researching is not to get above 1100 kg with all the braces and stuff because i will get into s2000 territory and i dont want to.
Quote from: "Nvy"I will share the reason for my 1000 questions. I want to be some kind of future proof so i will know that my money will go to the right place. I will be happy to invest 3-4k in a k20 swap and then turbo it in a year or two or have a turbo on stock internals and then go nuts with a built engine. Or best have V6 in there with 300 whp for a start and then turbo it if i get the itch for something different.
My only concern while researching is not to get above 1100 kg with all the braces and stuff because i will get into s2000 territory and i dont want to.
My V6 weighs in at 1070 with half a tank of fuel.
Don't worry about an S2000 the engine is in the wrong place and it has no torque.
I would imagine things are cheaper in Bulgaria it is very expensive here.
Australia or the USA seem to be places where it is cheap to play with cars.
Importing from MWR just isn't viable in the UK there is 20% vat plus duty and shipping.
Do you want a track car or a street car?
I would go 2zz/k20 for a track car leaving it NA.
For a street car turbo a 1zz or put in a V6.
I will post up my costs for my project a bit later for you to see the sorts of things you might need but not thought of.
Id like it to be weekend warrior/track car/summer car to travel to the beach.
You got me curious i will check v6 3,5 engine and ask for prices around here. V6/k20-24 frank seems the best starting option for me to be honest.
I also wanted to check if i can get gears manufactured here for cheap, i dont want to earn money but i want to help community and it just looks overpriced. Either i go turbo or k engine i will let you know about prices for the expensive stuff coz im going to get them cooked locally.
When i was going hybrid on my honda i got it for 250 plus my turbo and some guys in uk was doing it for 550 plus turbo. Thats why i think id get some stuff done locally for less cash.
Here are my projected costs for my project - for me if you buy cheap you buy twice - not good if the component failure causes other parts to be trashed:
Please note that the prices below are slightly rounded figures (and include VAT) as the cost might change slightly depending on supplier - I will be buying parts via TCB as they are very competitive:
Block - note this is non sleeved
Pistons - 8.8:1 Wiesco pistons - £590
Forged rods - £400
ARP head studs (OEM are single use) - £200
Main bearings - £33
Big end bearings - £24
Cylinder bore maching work - £120
Gasket set - Probably around £200 inc head gasket
Cylinder head
Forced induction camshaft - £430
Springs and retainers (needed for cam) - £450
Stainless steel valves - not costed these up but probably around £250 for the set
Gearbox
Rebuild including refreshed parts - guessing around £200
JUBA gearset - £1,100
Clutch - guessing around £300
Lightened Flywheel - £230
So far that's just coming up to £4.5k but that is also guessing a few costs, also I would probably add another £500 if I wanted to get sleeves and bore out to 82mm, which would then mean I have to get a Cometic head gasket adding on another £60 or there abouts.
Then we get to the expensive stuff:
AEM EMS4 ECU including base map - £1300
Fueling - injectors, rail mod, fuel pump, FPR - probably around £600 although might have a few parts on the shelf
Turbo - £250 - £1k
Custom exhaust - probably around £500 inc off the shelf manifold
Charge cooler plus pipework
Oil cooler (I have one on the shelf)
Meth injection kit (I have one on the shelf)
That's not to mention the extra supporting mods such as brakes, cooling, mapping/dyno time, gauges etc.
There is however a silver lining in this cloud - the cheapest Lotus Elise on Autotrader right now with 118bhp is currently £12k - my car will probably have cost that all in once finished, the option for me is:
2002 stock Lotus Elise with a 1.8l engine making 118bhp with expensive bodywork
Or
2003 Toyota MR2 with a 1.92L (ish) engine making over 400bhp with easy to replace and cheap bodywork that you have built yourself
What would you choose?
2nd every day whole day. I will be looking into k20 swap parts and will research a bit. Put that way i agree that the price goes up.
Options for me:
1. k20 swap, depends on the prices of the wiring i think i can get away with 1300 dollars in total, no engine, tranny, header and exhaust in that number.
2. 1zz stock + turbo kit - collected parts by myself.
3. V6 3.5i
4. 2zz swap.
2zz is the least desirable coz no torque at all, not that the k20 has any but is a good start. The least hassle is obviously 1zz, i will be talking to my friend to get me prices of all these stuff but i guess these are going to be the same but in euros. Mapping here is cheap and if i use piggy back the cost will go down significantly.
Thanks Mitch and Scotte for replying to my stupid questions, you guys are the best!
The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Keep asking away, don't forget to look at the supercharger options.
Quote from: "m1tch"What would you choose?
They are having this debate on the FB page.
I got my 2 because I didn't like M X 5 and I wanted something that handled well with a soft top.
Also cheap ish.
The lotus Elise is a fabulous car that will out handle most things let alone an MR2 however it isn't a comfortable place to sit and bodywork costs a fortune.
I don't want one.
Same as I don't want a Boxster.
I like modifying my 2.
Most people don't get it.
I am comfortable with that.
I dont like lotus, i like mr2 looks and yeah i will modify it and keep it forever. Altho im sooooo much into cars i can own some more together with the Mr. I have a list so it will go one by one, keeping the Mr2 tho.
I get u scotte for sure, i love projects and after that i dont want to part with them. Is totally human quality s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "m1tch"What would you choose?
They are having this debate on the FB page.
I got my 2 because I didn't like M X 5 and I wanted something that handled well with a soft top.
Also cheap ish.
The lotus Elise is a fabulous car that will out handle most things let alone an MR2 however it isn't a comfortable place to sit and bodywork costs a fortune.
I don't want one.
Same as I don't want a Boxster.
I like modifying my 2.
Most people don't get it.
I am comfortable with that.
I have had 3 mark 1 mx5s, they are good little cars they do feel like you are plugged into them and the gearbox is a joy to use. They are fairly common and most things have been done before plus a huge amount of rust! Later models are just heavier and flabbier and kinda lose the edge etc.
I've not driven the lotus but they are very expensive for what they are, as they aren't really the sort of car you can just chuck around and not worry about damage etc. They are lighter as standard but it's free to remove weight from the MR2.
Sure there are less off the shelf parts for our mr2 model but it just makes modding them more fun.
You won't make an MR2 handle as well as an Elise or give you the same steering feel.
Even if you managed to lose 100kg at which point the 2 looses its main advantage habitability.
The MR2 is a much better daily or tourer but if just for weekend blasts the Lotus is way better.
Not that I would like to pay the bill for a front or rear clam repair. Which would put me off taking it to the track which is obviously something it would excel at.
Not driven one but had a passenger ride in a vx220 modified with a supercharger.
It was awesome. It was the ride I was most impressed with. Same as when I drove a Cayman S this weekend.
Both handle brilliantly without the harshness you get from coil overs on a 2.
I think 100kg is easy achievable w/o sacrificing anything. Lighter seats, some carbon hood and engine lid, remove soft top and add hardtop, add 5-6 point harness and remove the airbags.You could get to 900 kg but then again added bracing and engine swap/turbo will add some weight. Cayman S is appealing and on youtube videos its like on rails when turning, never driven one of them and probably will never drive as its not for mere mortals like me s:) :) s:)
On a side note i have TTE springs and at the moment the drive is a lot better than my civic. I havent tried any spirited driving till now but once i get the car back i will try the twisties around s:) :) s:)
Check my thread on some of the weight I have removed (keep scrolling as I take other bits out as I go) - there is only a few kg in it between the hard top plus soft top and there is also the hard top brackets which also weigh something:
l viewtopic.php?f=88&t=62144&start=90#p735672 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=62144&start=90#p735672) l
I have pulled around 60kg from the car and it still looks fairly stock, will get some extra weight out when I change the exhaust and the heaterbox setup is also quite heavy, the facelift cars are slightly heavier due to the extra bracing btw. Full race weight eg strip everything it should be down to around 850kgs ish,
k20-24 swap parts, i will leave this here in case somebody is interested(VAT NOT INCLUDED):
Innovative Toyota MR2 Conversion Mount Kit for K Series - 75A - 362 pounds
BlackWorks Racing K Series Throttle Body Adapter - 32 pounds
Innovative MR2 K Series Axles - 549 pounds
Innovative Shifter Adapter - 138 pounds
PNP Harness, A/C Mount and A/C Module Package Deal - PNP Harness Version Street Race - 401 pounds
**** Disclaimer The parts were in dollars so the end price in pounds will depend on the exchange rate. Also shipping is not included but should be around 100 pounds or so.
Hondata ECU - 300-400 pounds 2nd hand, you can easily obtain one in any facebook group
Locally crafted parts:
Header - 200 pounds or less
Exhaust - 300 pounds, with no cat, with cat around 400 +/- some change
Engine should be around 1000-1200 k20/24 frank
Mapping and we are ready to rock around 260hp and ~200 torque ofc no high revving stuff but good enough i guess.
Some cash can be returned from selling current parts that are in the car. I have really low miller 1zz around 56k miles(was replaced 2006 or 2008 year, got the papers) + 5 speed tranny supposedly with LSD.
2gr engines are hard to find around here but i will be collecting some information on the swap as well. I have read on some high revving V6 NA stuff that are very appealing to me coz of the awesome noise.
Quote from: "Nvy"2gr engines are hard to find around here but i will be collecting some information on the swap as well. I have read on some high revving V6 NA stuff that are very appealing to me coz of the awesome noise.
The noise is such an enjoyable part of the V6 equation.
Even if it only revs to 6.5k.
How plentiful are 1mzfe the vvti version if you can get it.
Or even the 3mz which just aren't available in the UK unless they're hybrid.
Hey guys, I've just read this whole thread and thanks for all the info. I'm going for a similar build to you guys and getting Patrick Chambers to install it for me once I get all the parts together.
I'm buying my manifold now and he said the cheaper ones don't have good flow so I'm not sure about those ones in the links you sent a while back in the thread, maybe just check it out. I'm going for the monkey wrench racing one.
I'll start a thread about my build later tonight.
Quote from: "macdool"Hey guys, I've just read this whole thread and thanks for all the info. I'm going for a similar build to you guys and getting Patrick Chambers to install it for me once I get all the parts together.
I'm buying my manifold now and he said the cheaper ones don't have good flow so I'm not sure about those ones in the links you sent a while back in the thread, maybe just check it out. I'm going for the monkey wrench racing one.
I'll start a thread about my build later tonight.
Hey, glad we have fellow turbo wanna bes. Up to certain PSI say 15 u will not have any problems with the cast manifold that is 100 euros. If u want to go nuts u have to go tabular but they are easier to break and u would need a support bracket for your turbo. I cant justify the price of MWR one with the shipping and vat, id rather have one made locally.
QuoteHey, glad we have fellow turbo wanna bes. Up to certain PSI say 15 u will not have any problems with the cast manifold that is 100 euros. If u want to go nuts u have to go tabular but they are easier to break and u would need a support bracket for your turbo. I cant justify the price of MWR one with the shipping and vat, id rather have one made locally.
I think its more about air not flowing smoothly through the cheaper ones therefore being less efficient. I didnt know there was so much to it, really interesting.
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/log_style_vs_equal_length_manifolds
The tkc manifold that monkey wrench sells isn't exactly equal length runners.
I would think it would be over £300 including shipping and taxes.
I suppose that's not too bad in comparison to other parts you may buy and it is the part to purchase first and build from.
Have you watched any mighty car mods on YouTube?
Al has done some mad turbo builds and made power just fine on log type manifolds.
I'd rather have the "inefficiency" of a cast manifold than the cost, relative fragility and space requirements of the tubular.
Price to power ratio just doesn't stock up on the 2.
Unless you were talking something along the lines of the blue Phoenix 900hp k20 turbo project,.. Why bother?
Can't see why that log manifold on eBay wouldn't do the job for the power levels and turbo sizes we're generally talking
I totally agree with shnazzle and scotte, and this is what i said earlier. If you are not going some crazy PSI u cant justify the cost and headache of the tabular one. If of course u want to throw cash on the wind or ure a crazy perfectionist go for fully custom one.
P.S. With speeds above 100 km/h i feel that the steering wheel is shaking, its not wheels coz they were checked when i was replacing them. Maybe steering rack? Any ideas would be appreciated.
P.S2. My car is back from the repair shop, it feels a lot better after the throttle cable was adjusted. Now i can go sideways in every turn and it feels awesome, a small budget turbo project will be on the go and i have another nice idea that i will share with all of you guys once i cook it.
Hey @m1tch (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24468),
A question for you, do you think BW 6758 will fit with turbokits manifold? Im planning to get one for my build and i already started collecting parts. Now im trying to figure out what turbo to use and BW EFR 6758 loooooooks tasty, also trying to find cheap price for it. As i dont want to spend more than necessary i dont want to get any knockoff parts so im going to save cash before im done with everything.
Im not sure if there will be enough space to fit this turbo as it is a bit bigger.
Cheers
P.S. @Everybody please feel free to chime in with any info or experience.
P.S.2 Manifold turned up today, i totally like it.
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 22, 2018, 12:21
Quote from: Nvy on May 9, 2018, 14:20
Manifold turned up today
photos?
Its turbokits one with T2 flange. I bought it off Jims :)
So like this one?
(https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/TKC-10200-mwr-1.jpg)
Forgive my turbo naivety, but does that mean the O2 sensors get deleted? Or do they get installed in the downpipe after the turbo?
You can drill out for an o2 sensor which would be my preference for piggy back ECU or just put one in the down pipe.
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 22, 2018, 12:38
So like this one?
(https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/TKC-10200-mwr-1.jpg)
Forgive my turbo naivety, but does that mean the O2 sensors get deleted? Or do they get installed in the downpipe after the turbo?
I think there was a post somewhere answering your question but generally a wide band is installed post turbo and no o2 sensors are needed. Im not entirely sure how everything works yet but have the books on my kindle to read. I have seen applications where some sensors are hooked up to monitor every cylinder but i have no idea why and in which case we need them. With that cast manifold we cannot have any sensors anyways.
You can read dans thread he had problems setting up his MAP but he figured it out at the end. I think the other question about o2 and wide band was in m1tch's long term build.
I have wideband and O2 post turbo with both O2 sensors wired into one and a resistor to delete the heater circuit fault.
Should have mentioned I'm on piggy back. Standalone you can just run wideband.
You can tap the manifold to take o2 sensors just like the sp240 kit.
The best way to run with a piggyback.