My engine has done 80k and is noisy.Nothing specific just generally 'rattly'. Have talked privately to one of your experts on changing from 5w-30 to 10w-40 which he thought might be OK so that is what I did on a recent oil change. The garage owner (old school) was a little reluctant so got on to a special website he uses which gives refill volumes and oil grades. To his surprise not only is 10w-40 an option provided the temperature does not drop below -15C but also 20w-50 for hot countries where the temperature does not drop below +5C. Engine seems much quieter but can't really tell with current cold weather.
Try a new cam chain tensioner from TCB Performance (in Affiliates). This has been known to cure engine rattles.
I did the same on my old pre-fl mr2. Ran quieter on 10w40. Still got the good stuff mind, just 10w40.
Needless to say that only really applies to cold running. Once it's hot it's the same. Seemed like a good compromise
Have changed tensioner
Hi Pierce, did you notice any improvement after swapping the tensioner?
Contemplating changing my tensioner for same reasons (and have similar mileage).
The spring in mine still pushes out the piston and the ratchet is preventing it from retracting so I'm wondering if I'd see a difference.
Cheers
The spring and ratchet are there to prevent the chain jumping on its sprockets on start-up, before the oil pressure reaches it. The actual running tension is done by oil behind the piston. I dismantled one to see just how it's put together, and I found enough internal wear (on the piston) to explain why it rattled at low rpm.
So they can seem fine, but be worn out. By 80,000, they've had a pretty hard life. Replacing won't cure all rattles, but it sure helps.
Check the idler pulleys on the aux belt, drop the belt and see if it goes quieter.
Apart from that AC/DC on full blast helps. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Carolyn"The spring and ratchet are there to prevent the chain jumping on its sprockets on start-up, before the oil pressure reaches it. The actual running tension is done by oil behind the piston. I dismantled one to see just how it's put together, and I found enough internal wear (on the piston) to explain why it rattled at low rpm.
So they can seem fine, but be worn out. By 80,000, they've had a pretty hard life. Replacing won't cure all rattles, but it sure helps.
That's helpful, seems like it might be worth a go. Definitely not the quietest engines when cold - had a celica a few years ago that sounded like a bag of spanners until it warmed up.
Mine is as quiet as a quiet thing. New Tensioner, careful valve adjustment (not a job for a beginner) and new pulleys. The tensioner makes a difference, but the valve clearance work was what really shut it up. The initial start-up rattle should go away in the first few seconds.
The valve shims might need adjusting - they wear but due to the difficulty in changing them no-one ever really does.