So...firstly let address the whifbits turbo kit. it has been discontinued, but after speaking to paul whiffin via email, i have been informed that they are willing to re-make the kit :) happy days for us.
he will need a car for 4 weeks to build the kit up, this will then be the prototype. due to the fact that the manifold will not be mandrel bent instead of the log type he has said it will be around £600 more than it used to be. that means an estimated price of £2,600. for that you get:
Whifbitz log style T4 304 stainless steel manifold
Mitsubishi TD04 T25 modified with larger compressor wheel
Goodridge braided oil feed hoses and fittings
Whifbitz oil feed kit using Goodridge hoses and fittings
Aluminium pipework from turbo to throttle body
Silicon hoses and clamps
Whifbitz 2.5″ stainless steel downpipe with v band clamp, downpipe is designed to bolt on to the standard exhaust position, power figures were achieved with a standard exhaust fitted
K&N air filter and polished aluminium intake pipe
K&N breather filter
NGK iridium spark plug set
So basically an ecu upgrade of some sort and an upgraded/modified sump are required to get it running. (correct me if i'm wrong, engineer not a mechanic :-\ ) he has also said he can make a kit with an intercooler if required.
The other option is the Black Label kit sold by turbokits.com in the states. its worth checking out on the site. i think i am already a fan of this kit. it is pretty much a complete kit (again correct me if im wrong) and is about £2400 delivered (not including import tax) for that you get.
BLF Journal Bearing T28 Turbo
Cast 4-in-1 High Flow Sil Moly Turbo Manifold
Polished Mandrel Bent Stainless Downpipe w/ High Flow CAT
Polished Mandrel Bent Stainless Exhaust Pipe (No Muffler)
Functional Ram Air Intake Using Side Air Scoop
Polished T6061 Mandrel Bent 3" Aluminum Intake Pipe
Polished T6061 Mandrel Bent 2.5" Aluminum Charge Pipe
K&N High Flow Air Filter
Forge Billet BOV
AEM FIC (Fuel Injector Controller)
AEM FIC Wire In Harness (Plug n Play Available)
(4) 440cc Denso Factory Clip Drop-In Injectors
Water / Meth Injection Kit for DIY Installation
Stainless Braided Oil Feed & Drain Lines
Stainless Braided Water Lines & Fittings
Stainless T-Bolt Clamps
4 Ply Silicone Couplers
All Hardware & Fittings for Install
Detailed Step by Step Installation Instructions
it is designed to be a bolt on kit. if you speak to the guys there they seem real friendly and are willing to make changes if you already have some bits. The AEM FIC comes provided with a pretty decent map to get you going as well.
So...my concerns and Queries:
water meth injection? sounds like hassle. can i run this without it or an intercooler until i fabricate an intercooler fittment?
Import tax, can anyone enlighten me? all seems very vague to me.
BLF journal bearing turbo..is this any good or a cheap knockoff?
i know theres threads already on this but wanted to make people aware of the whifbits kit remake and hoping for advice personal to my questions.
My plan is to be rolling to Ding Day with over 200Whp :D ...we'll see.
Thanks in advance.
I like cast manifolds they are much less likely to brake.
Imho a turbo kit must have an intercooler or charge cooler.
The TTE turbo kit had both an intercooler and cast manifold the guys at Toyota aren't stupid.
If you want 200 @ the wheels you will need a custom free flowing exhaust.
Stock exhaust was the first thing SP threw in the bin when they were looking for more power from the TTE kit.
Also some kind of engine management is a must.
You dont want water meth at that power level it's just a pain added expense that a charge cooler will do cheaper and be more reliable.
From the states you are looking at nearer to 3k with shipping and taxes.
I think you could put your own kit together for similar money.
ECUmaster Det3 piggyback
Cast manifold
Astra? VXR injectors
eBay charge cooler
Fiat rad
Garrett gt2554r turbo
You need more than just that but it's 1500 quid for that lot I reckon.
That gives you another 1500 quid to play with before you get to these prices.
Fitting on top I presume I paid 600 ish for my Turbo to be fitted.
Double post
Don't forget all the "extras" like BOV, gaskets, fittings (bungs,t-pieces,etc),oil change, oil filter, coolant, mapping...seems little but it all adds up to hundreds
Quote from: shnazzle on February 13, 2018, 17:24
Don't forget all the "extras" like BOV, gaskets, fittings (bungs,t-pieces,etc),oil change, oil filter, coolant, mapping...seems little but it all adds up to hundreds
Agreed.
Still less than 3k in parts. Fitting and mapping less than a grand.
Being generous 4k total.
If the OP is dead set on either of the kits get the whifbitz.
Uk sourced easier come back if you have issues.
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 13, 2018, 17:31
Quote from: shnazzle on February 13, 2018, 17:24
Don't forget all the "extras" like BOV, gaskets, fittings (bungs,t-pieces,etc),oil change, oil filter, coolant, mapping...seems little but it all adds up to hundreds
Agreed.
Still less than 3k.
If the OP is dead set on either of the kits get the whifbitz.
Uk sourced easier come back if you have issues.
I like the idea of "local produce" for this.
So my vote goes for whif.
Also let's you choose ECU.
Aem doesn't always get great reviews
ill be fitting it myself. its a second car so and i have a car club workshop at my disposal so shouldnt be a huge issue.
putting my own kit together is something i want to do and know it'll work out cheaper. but this is why the Black label kit is so attractive. it comes with everything, full exhaust with a very sporty cat and no silencer, all hardware and fittings. and everything is made to fit. the intercooler is my only concern.
but looking at the images on the site it wouldnt be too hard to fit one in using some extra pipework.
http://www.turbokits.com/Toyota/MR2_Spyder/Turbo_Kits/Black_Label_Fabrication_Turbo_Kit/942/
ive asked for the water meth kit to be removed (will check out the price change) and he also does a military discount so will let people know if theres and mil blokes on here.
i have a unichip Q ready to be wired in if anyone can help with that although the map on it wont be great for getting it running.
my only issue with putting it all together would be cataloging every single item required. ill definitely be upgrading to an obx sump whilst im at it. i think thats a no brainer.
whif produces the goods i know but 4 weeks and £2600 to then get my car back, have to fit it all. and then get a custom exhaust made and still sort out the mapping. :-\
Have you been on spyderchat to see what the yanks think of it?
no,
fair point, i forgot about those guys, will brows now.
just been on the spyder chat and there isnt a lot of feedback but the feedback that is there is all good.
also explains a lot about the water meth set up, there are alternatives though, theyve left space to fit a water air intercooler
You can get most of the parts fairly easily off the shelf in terms of turbo, wastegates, injectors etc, only issue I had is getting a manifold, managed to get a T3 one but found it hard to find one in Europe to avoid import costs etc.
You can of course buy everything from MWR but at a rather high cost!
my current quote is just about £3000 including shipping costs and import duty/VAT. thats with an Apexi power fc instead f the AEM FIC. buy right or buy twice!! haha
http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?45819-100-110HP-80-Ft-Lbs-9-PSI-Introducing-the-NEW-Black-Label-Fab-Turbo-Kit/page12&highlight=black+label+fab
heres some of the reviews if people are interested. i think im willing to be a guinea pig on this one and hopefully be able to show it off as soon as the end of April :)
I was trying to hold back my personal opinion on this but here goes;
The turbo spins at ridiculous rates and they're no joke to replace. Get a reliable one with a good name.
If water meth is at the basis of your solution for keeping knock and temps down,you're not doing it right. It's a supplement to push power over the "norm" so you can temporarily push higher advance. Not as a safety feature.
Piggybacks are rank pieces of crap with very few exceptions. Plenty of good turbo setups out there running piggyback but how many of them are 100% issue free and run to the best of their ability and within big safety margins?
It's a massive change to the system for anything over 180ish hp. It needs a standalone or a very good piggyback and mapped by very good people and a good boost controller.
The only "kit" I'd blindly trust is the TTE due to its very elaborate components for "just" 50ish more hp and the fact that Toyota themselves made the piggyback to work with the ECU that they programmed.
The rest...nice as a basis but I'd go custom every time.
..soap box put away. :-) :lurk:
Ok the PFC is old hat these days and I wouldn't want one.
Get on the on ECUmaster group buy. £1000 for a state of the art standalone supplied fitted mapped drive in drive out.
PFC base maps are usually only good for start up just in case you thought it would be perfect without a trip to the Dyno.
Is that with water meth still?
Charge cooler is my preferred option.
No idea about that Turbo.
I would want something from a major manufacturer.
Garrett/Borg Warner/Mitsubishi etc.
You seem to really like this black label kit and I really can't see why tbh.
Different strokes for different folks.
Best of luck.
Please, opinion is what i want.
i was never particularly happy with the piggyback option and the price for the Apexi and software and injectors is reasonable, hence the upgrade.
when you say about the turbo spinning at a ridiculous rate, could this not be replaced further down the line? i cant particularly justify upgrading right now, but if they are supplying Garret turbo upgrades then surely this wouldnt be a huge job later on?
It seems that a water/air intercooler would be the best option for cooling but as im very unexperienced with forced induction at the moment that was again a "down the line" job. what would be your choice of cooling?
isn't the TTE kit discontinued? what i want is a pretty complete kit that can be fitted and run fairly reliably until the more power gremlin gets the better of me. thats when ill be looking at water/air cooler, uprated clutch and without a doubt a garret hybrid of some sort.
the whifbits kit just doesnt supply enough to bolt on and go, so to speak.
im very happy taking opinions by the way and i do definitely understand that custom is the ideal, what im looking at at the moment is a comprimise.
just to add, the main attraction is completeness. like i said i do have a car club and workshop to use but still only basic tools and virtually zero expense items to fall back on.
thank you for the heads up on the ECU. did not realise it was fitted and mapped. if i used the kit as a base and removed PFC then i could get on that GB at the same cost.
next issue is intercooler. how/where do you guys run a standard intercooler for it to be effective?
thanks for this, its much appreciated.
You just mentioned reliable.
I had 2 turbos give up in 2 years.
Shnazzle can't get his boost control to work properly.
SuperArt had a turbo go.
Wotugunnado has had problems.
Rbuckingham
ChrisGB
JRichards
All had problems with turbos.
The list goes on.
They can be reliable once you get them going right but getting them there can give you a headache.
I am a terrible nay sayer and the blacklabel kit may work perfectly out of the box but I find these things rarely do.
I am currently having my V6 swap supercharged god knows what sort of headaches that's going to give me.
Quote from: dan944 on February 14, 2018, 15:09
next issue is intercooler. how/where do you guys run a standard intercooler for it to be effective?
thanks for this, its much appreciated.
Toyota mounted an intercooler under the engine where it got some cool air.
For me a charge cooler is preferred.
More expensive and requires a pump and front mounted radiator but will cool much more effectively. Water is a much more efficient medium for heat transfer.
just a note on that, i used the pretext "fairly" i probably should have used "relatively"
reliable as far as turbos go.
thanks for the cooler advice, will look into this but for initial ease i'll probably look at a TTE style intercooler until things settle in a bit.
this might sound ridiculous but will a car run at all with a turbo set up but standard ECU, im talking, for example, enough to drive from southampton to....lets say cambridge? :P
Thanks for being so open and accepting of opinions. It always works out better. Good man.
The cooling is a key aspect to forced induction. Your intake and exhaust temperatures can reach dangerous levels.
But you CAN run a low boost solution on the stock ECU and without any cooling. So you could add a small turbo just to give you a little bit more torque in overtakes and what not. But we're talking a few psi and maybe 170hp or so.
Maybe it's enough for some.
The piggyback is odd in that the stock ECU does not know about the turbo. So piggyback goes "I want X fuel please" and then the stock ECU goes "turbo? What turbo? You're getting Y fuel and that's final". Now there's normal fuel adjustments and knock detection etc at play to smooth that out a bit but basically you're pushing the stock ECU far beyond its calibrations.
No about of piggybacking changes that.
So, 1000 for a standalone fitted and mapped and maybe another 1600 or so in kit is probably the best option on the table right now.
A gt2556 turbo, or hell,a td04, a small intercooler, log manifold and piping/fittings would get you a long way.
The reason i asked about running on stock ECU is purely to get me to cambridge to purchase the GB ECU and then remap for what i imagine should be a beautiful drive home :D
One of the main problems is getting the car to places, i.e Exhaust Fab to get work done that i can not. how do you get around this? if i build from scratch then i would be dealing with getting the car somewhere with no exhaust.
also, i could do with instructions ::)
Tbh once it's all fitted best bet is a transporter.
You can run very low boost on stock ECU but it is risky.
They do it on the MK2 V6 with TRD supercharger.
It is a decent question.
I have only ever had kits with maps already installed or had everything done by the mechanic so it wasn't a problem.
Btw you need to add a few quid to the ECUmaster price.
You will need a boost control solenoid for the best results.
Unless you just run spring pressure but this is a bit old school.
Quote from: dan944 on February 14, 2018, 15:55
Just take all your stuff with you and drive the car to the place with the stock exhaust etc in place. You can drive the car with everything fitted. with the exception of bigger injectors maybe. Although...maybe it will just trim your fuel (a lot) as you go. It'll start pig rich though.
its highly likely i'm being and idiot but here we go, you mean fit everything an drive it to the garage? wouldnt i be missing an exhaust as it wouldnt fit the turbo setup?
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 14, 2018, 16:31
Btw you need to add a few quid to the ECUmaster price.
You will need a boost control solenoid for the best results.
Unless you just run spring pressure but this is a bit old school.
estimation on the amount of quids required? is this something i would fit before going there? (boosty stuff is very new territory)
So rather than doing assignments like i should be ive been researching boost and vacuum, also sourcing parts and pricing.
decided on the Garrett t2560, -£640 ish delivered
GB ECUmaster standalone £1000
cast manifold from belgium £150ish
found some water and oil lines with all gaskets and Tee pieces for £69 on fleabay
OBX sump i think is wise, £250
going initially with an intercooler that will sit pretty much between the rear inserts, probably cut all that out in fact to get some nice airflow. putting £150 aside for this unless i decide to put a mishimoto in wich i think will look nive peeking through the hole.
turbo flanges £35 fleabay
boost gauge £30 ish
£150 set aside for hardware and pipework
Need a recommend on BOV dont want to be spending ridiculous moneys, also recirc or atmospheric? id like to hear it, but im a child ;D
am i missing anything? and i dont mean niceties, im talking things i 100% need.
thanks for all your help guys. youve swayed me from what i thought was a dead cert!
i'm going to document this as well as possible with a very exact list of every component and will put it up in the DIY turbo thread. (admin-if this needs moving then please do, i feel it has digressed)
Following with interest.
I have just worked with a mate to turbo his MX-5. It's rapid and twitchy. He went for the ME221 standalone ECU (which I believe they are working on an MR2 loom). We're off to MTECH tomorrow to get it professionally mapped
We have it running fairly well currently. Nick is a former LPG fitter and has programmed many (100's) of piggyback ECU's for this, so we were able to program the ME221 ourselves relatively well, but you can't beat the professionals. He now works for Rolls Royce building the Trent engines which are fitted to many aircraft
I'll post results and findings tomorrow. I'm thinking I need to turbo my MR2 so we're back on a level playing field. Good luck and please document what you can as I am really interested in this
Obx sump may not be necessary.
Much cheaper to just have a bung welded into your existing sump. if you want to save money that is.
Obx is better obviously but certainly not necessary.
If you can get your hands on a TTE replica intercooler they're ideally placed for the size. Otherwise you end up with this awkward cramming on an intercooler in the back somewhere.
I'd opt for cheap eBay chargecooler piped to a small Fiat radiator before I went down that route.
Have you considered injectors? Depending on how much power you want,you really ought to consider at the very least some 2zz injectors. Anything over 200 and you're going to be looking at the lotus 440cc or modified Astra VXR with some Bosch plugs to wire in.
If you want to keep stock injectors, I'd aim for a modified return fuel rail and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to ensure your injectors can work at max capacity through boost. Maybe slightly higher pressure as well.
Wideband really is a good idea to monitor your fueling alongside boost. It'll also give your piggyback the capability to adjust on AFR.
If you're going standalone,you'll need an IAT sensor as well as (if I recall) the ECUMaster doesn't bother with a MAF-based fueling strategy. So we'll need an IAT to get the temps. (Need to address this in the group buy...)
Hmm..what else... Crank vent. One way valves. You do not want boost in your head.
New pcv to make sure as well
Garrett GT2554R
https://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/gt2554r-ball-bearing-turbocharger-8360235001s-p-4930.html?sesid=b7256879bfa61a16db370980d9c091ae
Better than the t2560.
It's good for 270 @ the crank and spools really well.
Ignore the description.
653 Inc vat
You want a manifold in your hands.
It should be the first thing you buy.
The flange on the manifold dictates to a certain degree which turbo housing you want.
Quote from: shnazzle on February 15, 2018, 07:34
Obx sump may not be necessary.
Much cheaper to just have a bung welded into your existing sump. if you want to save money that is.
Obx is better obviously but certainly not necessary.
If you can get your hands on a TTE replica intercooler they're ideally placed for the size. Otherwise you end up with this awkward cramming on an intercooler in the back somewhere.
I'd opt for cheap eBay chargecooler piped to a small Fiat radiator before I went down that route.
Have you considered injectors? Depending on how much power you want,you really ought to consider at the very least some 2zz injectors. Anything over 200 and you're going to be looking at the lotus 440cc or modified Astra VXR with some Bosch plugs to wire in.
If you want to keep stock injectors, I'd aim for a modified return fuel rail and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to ensure your injectors can work at max capacity through boost. Maybe slightly higher pressure as well.
Wideband really is a good idea to monitor your fueling alongside boost. It'll also give your piggyback the capability to adjust on AFR.
If you're going standalone,you'll need an IAT sensor as well as (if I recall) the ECUMaster doesn't bother with a MAF-based fueling strategy. So we'll need an IAT to get the temps. (Need to address this in the group buy...)
Hmm..what else... Crank vent. One way valves. You do not want boost in your head.
New pcv to make sure as well
OBX was (I feel) probably a wise choice and makes it easier for plumbing etc, also a higher capacity?
Intercooler, was planning on measuring up and seeing what I can cram in that space after fitting the rest. I'll be crying and taking advice closer to the time ;D
I forgot about injectors until last night whilst watching Leethesparky's videos on youtube, i'll be opting for the Astra VXR ones for now and swap the plugs.
I'll look into a wideband and add that to the list, any recommends? I'll research what it does as otherwise ill just be looking at a dial for no reason.
IAT sensor? :-\ guessing its a MAF replacement? any recommends? also where does this go? I understand why MAF goes between BOV and throttle body but if this only deals with temp is it going pre BOV?
For once I have some idea of what's going on, happy with most of the vac lines, is a vac block necessary? non return between Throttle body and PCV accounted for as well as crank breather and blocking the other end off (non return again?) most of this was again for the youtube channel.
Also will be using powerflow for the exhaust as they are only 20 mins away instead of the hour drive to longlife.
Many many thanks guys, this help is much appreciated. I'm just waiting for a payment to drop in hopefully at the end of this month and then ill start buying. Manifold from Belgium first, I may be wrong but does this one fit all the gt25 series?
http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/
Quote from: dan944 on February 15, 2018, 09:20
Quote from: shnazzle on February 15, 2018, 07:34
Obx sump may not be necessary.
Much cheaper to just have a bung welded into your existing sump. if you want to save money that is.
Obx is better obviously but certainly not necessary.
If you can get your hands on a TTE replica intercooler they're ideally placed for the size. Otherwise you end up with this awkward cramming on an intercooler in the back somewhere.
I'd opt for cheap eBay chargecooler piped to a small Fiat radiator before I went down that route.
Have you considered injectors? Depending on how much power you want,you really ought to consider at the very least some 2zz injectors. Anything over 200 and you're going to be looking at the lotus 440cc or modified Astra VXR with some Bosch plugs to wire in.
If you want to keep stock injectors, I'd aim for a modified return fuel rail and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to ensure your injectors can work at max capacity through boost. Maybe slightly higher pressure as well.
Wideband really is a good idea to monitor your fueling alongside boost. It'll also give your piggyback the capability to adjust on AFR.
If you're going standalone,you'll need an IAT sensor as well as (if I recall) the ECUMaster doesn't bother with a MAF-based fueling strategy. So we'll need an IAT to get the temps. (Need to address this in the group buy...)
Hmm..what else... Crank vent. One way valves. You do not want boost in your head.
New pcv to make sure as well
OBX was (I feel) probably a wise choice and makes it easier for plumbing etc, also a higher capacity?
Intercooler, was planning on measuring up and seeing what I can cram in that space after fitting the rest. I'll be crying and taking advice closer to the time ;D
I forgot about injectors until last night whilst watching Leethesparky's videos on youtube, i'll be opting for the Astra VXR ones for now and swap the plugs.
I'll look into a wideband and add that to the list, any recommends? I'll research what it does as otherwise ill just be looking at a dial for no reason.
IAT sensor? :-\ guessing its a MAF replacement? any recommends? also where does this go? I understand why MAF goes between BOV and throttle body but if this only deals with temp is it going pre BOV?
For once I have some idea of what's going on, happy with most of the vac lines, is a vac block necessary? non return between Throttle body and PCV accounted for as well as crank breather and blocking the other end off (non return again?) most of this was again for the youtube channel.
Many many thanks guys, this help is much appreciated. I'm just waiting for a payment to drop in hopefully at the end of this month and then ill start buying. Manifold from Belgium first, I may be wrong but does this one fit all the gt25 series?
http://tuning-parts.bg/manifold/1324/
Nope manifold won't fit. You need a T25 flange,the manifold is T3. You can get an adapter and as you're going from a bigger flange on the mani to a smaller one on the turbo,it will have no negative effect. Just space,which may make things difficult but not impossible.
Wideband isn't required but just allows the car to maintain target AFRs depending on conditions. So you don't even need the gauge really.
IAT- Intake Air Temp. This is currently integrated into the MAF. With a turbo,your intake temps are going to be very different before and after the turbo,so the MAF temp sensor is in the wrong place. You'll find it runs very different in cold wet Vs warm dry weather.
As this standalone does away with the MAF and replaces it with MAP, you need to measure IAT after the intercooler to let the ECU adjust for air temp. Need? No. Is it smart?yes!
Bov is a simple piece of equipment and can sit wherever you want (-ish) on the MAP set up as you're no longer measuring airflow with the MAF. So the unmetered air issue is gone.
Manifold is from Bulgaria mate.
Check stock.
It's a T3 which means you will need an adaptor for the smaller T25 type turbos.
There was a place in Denmark that did them.
Otherwise it's import from the states.
so..
HA!!! ::) idiot!! I saw Bg and assumed Belgium without even thinking!!
http://www.turbomotor.dk/contents/da/d28.html
^^this manifold should work then. Close on price as well.
I'll probably get a wideband, sounds important. Its on the list.
Are MAP sensor and IAT universal? seen AEM versions of both, MAP even says for use with ECUmaster?
That's the one.
Thanks you :notworthy:
With the sensors get the ones specific to your ECU choice.
They may just be generic but then you are sure there will be no compatibility issues.
If you get on the ECUMASTER group buy they will supply the afr sensor for 105 I think with wiring. It doesn't require a controller because the ECU is double clever and does it all it's self.
IAT may be unnecessary it may be able to use the one built into the MAF pretty cheap anyway.
25 for Bosch air temp sensor
59 for boost control solenoid
RRR shop.co.uk
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 15, 2018, 10:38
With the sensors get the ones specific to your ECU choice.
They may just be generic but then you are sure there will be no compatibility issues.
If you get on the ECUMASTER group buy they will supply the afr sensor for 105 I think with wiring. It doesn't require a controller because the ECU is double clever and does it all it's self.
IAT may be unnecessary it may be able to use the one built into the MAF pretty cheap anyway.
25 for Bosch air temp sensor
59 for boost control solenoid
RRR shop.co.uk
They'd have to reposition the MAF post-turbo. Not impossible but a bit of a faff. Easier to just put a bung in the pipes and a new sensor. Cheap as chips.
RA charged 16 quid to fit the bung for the IAT.
Some excellent advice and experience being offered. ;) I can't remember seeing anything about an uprated clutch. Some of the TTE kits ran on a stock clutch and were okay, but any appreciable torque being produced, is likely to overwhelm a stock clutch. I've had 4 different turbos and they all had uprated clutches. My Haas turbo seemed fine until I sorted a poorly placed air intake, then the torque climbed and the clutch cried 'no more', so had to replace that.
Spot on.
Uprated clutch needed if Dan wants 200 @ the wheels.
That will be similar to the Sp240 and they always came with a helix auto sport clutch.
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 15, 2018, 10:38
With the sensors get the ones specific to your ECU choice.
They may just be generic but then you are sure there will be no compatibility issues.
If you get on the ECUMASTER group buy they will supply the afr sensor for 105 I think with wiring. It doesn't require a controller because the ECU is double clever and does it all it's self.
IAT may be unnecessary it may be able to use the one built into the MAF pretty cheap anyway.
25 for Bosch air temp sensor
59 for boost control solenoid
RRR shop.co.uk
This is all good news for me as I can speak to them directly during the build phase and ask them exactly where each component should go. That means I can build with everything in the correct place to start with and just leave them bunged up until they get their hands on it.
^^is this true?
Less good news about the clutch :( Was expecting the clutch to be ok at those levels. I have seen an exedy paddle clutch set that I wanted to fit but was probably going to do that before next power increase.
Clutch is probably a bit much for me to do atm so would probably look at paying someone and supplying them with the parts. Hence why I didn't want to do it yet.
I see 2 options;
run a very low boost for a while,
or,
stop being stingy and get the clutch done.
so whats the cheapest way I can get a clutch done :'(
what year VXR injectors will i need guys? cant seem to find it on the forum :-\
Quote from: loadswine on February 15, 2018, 11:21
Some excellent advice and experience being offered. ;) I can't remember seeing anything about an uprated clutch. Some of the TTE kits ran on a stock clutch and were okay, but any appreciable torque being produced, is likely to overwhelm a stock clutch. I've had 4 different turbos and they all had uprated clutches. My Haas turbo seemed fine until I sorted a poorly placed air intake, then the torque climbed and the clutch cried 'no more', so had to replace that.
I maybe reverting back to a standard clutch on my TTE turbo as my uprated paddle clutch is bit over the top for my power levels.
My previous TTE turbo ran standard clutch no problem, but bhp / torque over 200 would need uprated clutch
I can confirm current clutch pricing - feb 2018
Luk / Exedy standard clutch around £75 delivered
Standard Toyota £220 delivered
Exedy stage 1 £279 delivered
Helix £379 delivered
All plus fitting
If you add the ecumaster bluetooth adapter you can download the dash up which will let you monitor all the sensors without the need for additional gauges. This includes afr, oil temp/pressure, etc etc
Quote from: mikek on February 15, 2018, 19:36
If you add the ecumaster bluetooth adapter you can download the dash up which will let you monitor all the sensors without the need for additional gauges. This includes afr, oil temp/pressure, etc etc
I love that option. And from videos I've seen,it's lightning quick as well. No delays. So you can almost use it as a dash
Quote from: shnazzle on February 15, 2018, 19:58
Quote from: mikek on February 15, 2018, 19:36
If you add the ecumaster bluetooth adapter you can download the dash up which will let you monitor all the sensors without the need for additional gauges. This includes afr, oil temp/pressure, etc etc
I love that option. And from videos I've seen,it's lightning quick as well. No delays. So you can almost use it as a dash
It's on my list
If the Bluetooth and App work well it's a great tool.
Something that I could never get to work with my PLX multi gauge.
Quote from: s12vea on February 15, 2018, 19:25
Quote from: loadswine on February 15, 2018, 11:21
Some excellent advice and experience being offered. ;) I can't remember seeing anything about an uprated clutch. Some of the TTE kits ran on a stock clutch and were okay, but any appreciable torque being produced, is likely to overwhelm a stock clutch. I've had 4 different turbos and they all had uprated clutches. My Haas turbo seemed fine until I sorted a poorly placed air intake, then the torque climbed and the clutch cried 'no more', so had to replace that.
I maybe reverting back to a standard clutch on my TTE turbo as my uprated paddle clutch is bit over the top for my power levels.
My previous TTE turbo ran standard clutch no problem, but bhp / torque over 200 would need uprated clutch
I can confirm current clutch pricing - feb 2018
Luk / Exedy standard clutch around £75 delivered
Standard Toyota £220 delivered
Exedy stage 1 £279 delivered
Helix £379 delivered
All plus fitting
does anyone someone who'll fit a stage 1 exedy for a good price?