I'm planning on fitting Tein springs on kyb struts and was wondering if replacing the standard strut bolts with camber bolts is necessary?
I don't intend to race or even track day the car, so not sure adding camber bolts will really be of benifit. I've read that if the lowering is no more than around 1 inch then there's no need, is this the case?
All help appreciated as always 😉
Oops! Just seen another recent post with pretty much the same question. Apologies 🙄.
It depends, do you want to change the camber? Lowering will increase negative camber front and rear with stock bolts about .5 deg more negative. If the alignment was somewhere in the middle of the specs before lowering, it will still be within tolerance. If you want to go back to the middle of the specs, you will need camber bolts. The fronts are 14mm, and the rears are 15mm.
We have run Tein and H&R and do not have camber bolts as we like the end result just fine.
Quote from: Beachbum957 on November 10, 2021, 20:49It depends, do you want to change the camber? Lowering will increase negative camber front and rear with stock bolts about .5 deg more negative. If the alignment was somewhere in the middle of the specs before lowering, it will still be within tolerance. If you want to go back to the middle of the specs, you will need camber bolts. The fronts are 14mm, and the rears are 15mm.
We have run Tein and H&R and do not have camber bolts as we like the end result just fine.
Thanks, if there is no detrimental effect on tyre wear and handling then there seems little need to add camber bolts. I think I should get springs and struts fitted, get it re-aligned and see how we go from there.
The slightly greater negative camber has a slightly positive effect on handling. You may see slightly higher wear on the inside of the rear tires, but if the toe in right, that shouldn't increase much, if at all. Our last set of tires were worn fairly uniformly across the tread
Most shops will say the camber can't be adjusted, but there is a tiny amount of play in the bolts and mounts, so there is maybe .1 to .2 degree of play, so if they loosen the bolts and pull to the minimum allowed by the play, you should be fine.
With H&R springs and stock camber bolts we ended at about -1.1 front and -1.5 rear. Both are well within the factory tolerances
F (–0.78° ± 0.75°)
R (–1.08° ± 0.75°)
Quote from: Beachbum957 on November 11, 2021, 18:09The slightly greater negative camber has a slightly positive effect on handling. You may see slightly higher wear on the inside of the rear tires, but if the toe in right, that shouldn't increase much, if at all. Our last set of tires were worn fairly uniformly across the tread
Most shops will say the camber can't be adjusted, but there is a tiny amount of play in the bolts and mounts, so there is maybe .1 to .2 degree of play, so if they loosen the bolts and pull to the minimum allowed by the play, you should be fine.
With H&R springs and stock camber bolts we ended at about -1.1 front and -1.5 rear. Both are well within the factory tolerances
F (–0.78° ± 0.75°)
R (–1.08° ± 0.75°)
Quote from: Beachbum957 on November 11, 2021, 18:09The slightly greater negative camber has a slightly positive effect on handling. You may see slightly higher wear on the inside of the rear tires, but if the toe in right, that shouldn't increase much, if at all. Our last set of tires were worn fairly uniformly across the tread
Most shops will say the camber can't be adjusted, but there is a tiny amount of play in the bolts and mounts, so there is maybe .1 to .2 degree of play, so if they loosen the bolts and pull to the minimum allowed by the play, you should be fine.
With H&R springs and stock camber bolts we ended at about -1.1 front and -1.5 rear. Both are well within the factory tolerances
F (–0.78° ± 0.75°)
R (–1.08° ± 0.75°)
Useful info. many thanks. I shall speak with the garage with your comments in mind when I get the alignment done 👍