Quote from: m1tch on April  3, 2020, 11:21

Quote from: Call the midlife! on April  3, 2020, 10:41All sounds good, just remember to turn the shafts in situ with the spanner, constantly stripping the shafts out just to rotate them to check gaps will wear your cap bolts out and you're not guaranteed to be seating the lobe bases in the right position as they move slightly when you torque the caps up.
If the valvetrain is assembled at the moment then take a fresh set of measurements by turning the shafts and making sure the buckets are moving with the springs before measuring.
Then when you get your new micrometer strip out any buckets not in spec and measure them all with the same micrometer, using the same method.
The instructions on the micrometer will probably say to measure against the ratchet setting, technically true but the buckets in the club bank (if indeed there is a club bank left anymore) are measured a bit tighter than that, to first resistance, so probably better to use that method.
Turning those springs by hand on the bench isn't much of a laugh but it's the only way, just keep a bare minimum of oil on the faces to avoid gouging and you'll be sweet.

Will try that at lunch, not got the sprockets on the camshafts but noticed the hex part way along the shaft last night - will rotate the camshafts a bit and see if the clearances change. Agree with not really wanting to keep retorquing the bolts!

For measuring for fit, you don't need to torque the bolts.  Just nip them up. The extra torque is to take the stress of a running engine.

Quote from: Call the midlife! on April  3, 2020, 13:16You'll have to disassemble it enough times as it is to swap the buckets around etc but just try and avoid unnecessary times.
Maybe use your old bolts for as long as they keep reaching torque, you're only looking at around 12-20 Nm across the different ones if I remember right?
Don't forget you'll have to take the cams out to refit the head to the block also so leave all your final lubing until then.
I forgot that bit and that's how I ended up wrongly fitting two buckets in the end as they'd stuck to the shafts with the assembly lube and pulled out.
And I lazily put them back where I thought they'd come from without actually checking.

The number 1 bearing is 23NM with the others at 13NM, I am just using normal engine oil at the moment but will be using some assembly lubricant as I have done on the rest of the engine once everything is sorted - noticed the head stud holes below the cams earlier!

Just gone out and turned the cams over, didn't take a huge amount of force and everything moved smoothly, might look to get a spare set of bolts if needed at a later date but they all seem to be ok at the moment - chased all the threads as well so I know they are clean and will be correctly to spec.

Will be numbering all of them when I start working out clearances as I did with all the valves - at least those are in now

I am awaiting the cam specs from Piper cams, will see what I need to aim for - will measure up the gap currently with the buckets I have at the moment, will then measure the bucket spec when they come out so I don't think I will need to remove them many more times as I should be able to work out what I need to order.

If I need a huge number I might look to convert over to a shimmed design but I *think* I might be able to use at least some of them, probably on the exhaust side - will see how it pans out.

My 0-25mm micrometer has arrived and I have now measured all of the buckets not fitted to the cylinder head, it would seem that a used bucket works out at around 2 sizes smaller than marked - I have 2 '52' buckets which are now in the '50' bucket size range.

I also noticed a few really worn buckets where I can tell the oiling wasn't 100% perfect and so these are heavily worn - think one of the '48' buckets are now something like a '40' bucket due to the wear.

Still waiting back from Piper cams but plan now is:

Measure current clearance with buckets fitted and make a note of which valve
Remove current buckets
Measure current buckets
Work out clearance needed
Check to see which buckets would work

I have a feeling that out of all of the buckets I should be able to sort out the exhaust side, I have a feeling I might need 8 new buckets for the intake side though.

Quote from: m1tch on April  7, 2020, 10:46My 0-25mm micrometer has arrived and I have now measured all of the buckets not fitted to the cylinder head, it would seem that a used bucket works out at around 2 sizes smaller than marked - I have 2 '52' buckets which are now in the '50' bucket size range.

I also noticed a few really worn buckets where I can tell the oiling wasn't 100% perfect and so these are heavily worn - think one of the '48' buckets are now something like a '40' bucket due to the wear.

Still waiting back from Piper cams but plan now is:

Measure current clearance with buckets fitted and make a note of which valve
Remove current buckets
Measure current buckets
Work out clearance needed
Check to see which buckets would work

I have a feeling that out of all of the buckets I should be able to sort out the exhaust side, I have a feeling I might need 8 new buckets for the intake side though.

Have a look at Carolyn's valve clearance job How To in the how to section. Instead of trying to figure it out  

But the above is indeed the general process.

Here are a few updated photos of the project so far:

Fitted some vortex generators after doing some tuft testing:



Small lip spoiler:



This is the car with the Silverstone Performance 17s on:



Have now swapped to a set of JR3 15x7 rims at the moment though:



Interior handles have been blacked out:



And at the side of the radio - you can also see the AFR gauge there:



I also swapped over to some 'JDM' yellow foglights (the OEM ones had corroded badly so needed to be swapped:





Engine work, Molnar rod, Traum piston:





CSS block with pistons:



Supertech valvetrain being fitted



Working out clearances

Yeah for pictures 😂

Good work!

Sending my block of to future Motor Sports next month for dry sleeves and a short block build.

Quote from: Gaz2405 on May 18, 2020, 12:19Yeah for pictures 😂

Good work!

Sending my block of to future Motor Sports next month for dry sleeves and a short block build.

My CSS was done by Futuremotorsports, went with the CSS route as I didn't need to run more than 600bhp through the block and only going with a 0.5mm overbore so to 79.5mm rather than a big bore 82mm build, think they offer a 1000bhp CSS options for some of the Honda builds. I did look at Darton sleeves but didn't go with them as the sleeves still aren't supported at the top where all the cylinder pressure is coupled with the fact they could drop.

Thanks to @Carolyn and the bucket bank I have managed to clearance a stock camshaft to the Supertech valvetrain:



I still need to order a clutch and Bosch doughnut knock sensor plus pick up the gearbox from Rogue motorsports but I think the next step is finishing putting together the block so next stages would be:

Seal up the Moroso sump
ARP headstuds
Fit dowels into deck surface
Head gasket on
Head torqued down
Cams in and torqued (will recheck the clearances again at this point)
Rear main seal in
Oil pump on and torqued
Timing chain guides fitted
Timing chain fitted
Check timing

I might look to get a new crank pulley, will see how the ones I currently have are looking, I am also tempted to see if I can partly prime the oil system, might be able to do that by pumping oil through the head or maybe the block before the head goes on.

I might leave off fitting the flywheel for a bit - I have ARP bolts for it but don't see a reason to add additional weight until the gearbox arrives. I have a competition lightweight flywheel though so its not too bad!

Slight update on this, I have ordered some Radium engineering fuel rail parts as I going with a return system, this will be easier to fit when the engine comes out. I have some vaseline I might use to pack the oil pump to ensure that the engine primes the oil ok on start up. I have however also bought a 1/8 BSPT barbed fitting which will go into the oil pressure switch threaded hole and I plan to prime the engine a bit that way as well once things are together.

I have ordered some Loctite to add to the Moroso studs (as per instructions) so need to wait for that to arrive before I can put the sump on.

MOT is booked for 1st July so I might start taking a few things apart after that date and also have a date to aim for.

Oil pump is on and torqued, Moroso sump is on, sealed and torqued, just started to fit the head:

Really like what you're doing so far. 
Keep at it. Good job

Quote from: shnazzle on June  5, 2020, 17:51Really like what you're doing so far.
Keep at it. Good job

Its slowly getting there, first engine I have ever built so making sure everything is clean and torqued up correctly, will look to fit the head tomorrow I think, then I can drop the cams in and perhaps get the timing chain on.

Head is now torqued down, cams are in and torqued, quickly bolted on some spare intake and exhaust manifolds onto the engine to keep things safe:

Woah! What's that intake and exhaust mani!?

Quote from: shnazzle on June  8, 2020, 20:40Woah! What's that intake and exhaust mani!?

That is an OEM 1zz metal intake manifold and an unknown full race equal length exhaust manifold I had on the shelf, its not got any O2 sensor bungs in the runners so I am guessing it would only work with aftermarket ECUs that take readings pre cat rather than on the manifold.

Ironically I will probably be running neither manifold as this engine will only be run NA during break in so will probably just bolt on my current exhaust, I have a dividerless OEM plastic intake manifold instead of the stock metal one.

Will probably look to fit the timing chain etc tonight and check everything turns over ok, also fit the rear main seal, crank is freely spinning and I have checked the clearances on the cam lobes I can get to so far but will give it a few revolutions to make sure everything has settled.

Items still needed to complete the build:

Collect gearbox from Rogue motorsports
Clutch - probably the competition clutch stage 3
Clutch bearing (I can't remember if I bought a new one or not!)
Viton seal for the chain tensioner - I have an OEM one and currently have a viton seal on my current running engine
Bosch doughnut knock sensor - need to check if I need to get a harness adaptor to use the stock loom

I also have a VMS lightweight pulley coming which I may or may not fit - I have a new OEM one anyway.

I have a radium fuel rail arriving soon, will initially run the stock injectors but need to also order some AN fittings, lines, fuel pump and FPR to run a return system. I also purchased the Radium fuel top hat adaptor so it converts the top of the fuel hat to AN6 I think rather than the push connectors.

Minor updates:

Collecting the gearbox from Rogue motorsports tomorrow
Radium rail and top hat adaptor has arrived
Ordered AN6 and AN8 fittings for the rail (AN6 supply, AN8 return)
Ordered AN8 bulkhead adaptor to attach to the top hat on the fuel unit
Bolts for the water pump will arrive soon (missing them so can't fit the front timing cover)

Will probably order a DW320 pump soon, plus some fuel line and an FPR

MOT is booked in for the 1st July so will be spending 30th June checking and adjusting the handbrake! Currently running the stock ECU at the moment.

Still deciding on clutch, either a Competition clutch stage 3 or a Spec clutch stage 3+.

Timing cover and water pump is now on, will be using parts from my current engine such as the starter motor, alternator etc as they are known good items.

I have freed off the handbrake cables as the MOT is on Wednesday, will do some final checks tomorrow to make sure its 100% ok.

I still have a few tools to arrive and a few parts to order still, need to get a Bosch knock sensor stud to be able to fit that, however once the car is MOTed I can start unbolting some items such as the battery, intake system, soaking/loosening bolts, exhaust removal etc.

I plan to get one of those engine bay hoists, I do have an engine crane as well but might be hand to have one of the engine bay hoists to slowly lower everything down when the time comes.

Spec Stage 3+ clutch has been ordered, will be fitting the clutch and flywheel just before the engine goes in to keep the weight down of the engine in the garage as I will still need to move the engine outside when the time comes so will bolt on the flywheel, clutch and gearbox when things are outside to then lift it into the bay.

I have ordered some shielded wire for the knock sensor, will get the plug wired in as soon as that arrives, just waiting on a few bits at the moment.

Plan will also be to run the stock fuel system at the moment, gives me more time to pull together all of the other items, plan to run the engine on the stock ECU as well - will basically be swapping everything over as like for like as I can get to the fuel system and exhaust etc with the engine in unlike things such as the knock sensor or intake manifold.

Getting closer good work, bet your looking forward to getting it in the car and fired up ?

Quote from: thetyrant on June 29, 2020, 07:45Getting closer good work, bet your looking forward to getting it in the car and fired up ?

I think its more the case of knowing that I have run out of things that I need to get for it! Typically I have a set of injector O rings locked away at work so will need to retrieve those.

Hopefully after the MOT on Wednesday I can start unbolting things to a point where it will be a lot easier when I do set aside time to swap the engine once the other parts arrive as some parts on the current engine will need to be swapped over to the new engine.

I can easily:

Remove the battery and tray
Remove induction system
Remove rear ARB
Remove engine bay cross brace
Loosen engine mount bolts
Loosen subframe bolts
Remove throttlebody
Remove exhaust manifold
Remove ignition system
Remove aux belt tensioner
Remove alternator (maybe)
Remove/tuck away MAP sensor
Unplug all O2 sensors
Remove and swap over fuel rail

I can do all of these tasks without really taking any of the bodywork off or need to disable the gear linkages etc at this point - handbrake is fine but sill keep it in gear so will remove the gear linkage last minute.

I know there are a few electrical points that I need to remove as well, and I do have a spare engine loom so will gradually add that onto the current engine.

Car has just failed its MOT - it fails every year so not surprise, however this time the emissions and hand brake were fine, it was a small bit of rust on the rear subframe.

Project is currently paused whilst I swap out the subframe - basically I need to change out the subframe to the new one, bolt it all together, drive it to the MOT centre for them to go "yeah that looks ok" to then drive back home and unbolt it all again to drop the engine!

I have been battling bolts so far but current progress is:

4 main subframe bolts loose
2 bolts holding the brake lines are loose (one snapped)
2 bolts holding the bracing are loose
ARB bolts are loose (upgraded to a whiteline one a while back so bolts came out easily!)
2 of the 4 bolts of the engine mount are loose although it seems impossible to get to the other bolts as the bracket it in the way!

This morning I have managed to loosen off the passenger side cam bolt and the lower arm bolt - the lower arm bolt seems to spin freely within the bushing so hopefully won't get stuck.

Will carry on with the driver side later!

I have also ordered a few high tensile M12 bolts in case I need to replace the lower arm ones but one has loosened off ok.

Right, replacement subframe is now in:



Its all MOTed again for another 393 days, so have started to get ready for the engine swap, still awaiting the clutch but can at least soak bolts and maybe drop the engine etc. Taking many photos! I think the battery has leaked previously as its the battery tray is the only thing that is rust in the engine bay. Will also clean everything in there as well with the engine out, the original engine is on 179k miles and looks to have had an oil leak at some point.



Will try and get the following done this weekend:

Remove the earth wires
Battery tray out
Rest of the exhaust removed (manifold came off fine)
Soak all engine mount bolts
Attempt to remove the clutch slave cylinder from the gearbox (or at least loosen the bolts) although it seems impossible to get to!
Fuel rail out and fitted to the new engine (will start with the stock one initially)

Was this the low-comp block that you're going to run for a bit?

Nice job on subframe/mot etc now the fun begins.

Getting slave cylinder off engine/box isnt as bad as it first looks, 2 x 10mm bolts you can get at from underneath reaching around engine mount to remove it, leave all hydraulics connected as they are a bugger to bleed up, hose is clipped onto bracket part of front engine mount and you can either cut a slot to get it out or leave it on,  i chose to leave it attached and removed the bracket part from gearbox and tied it and slave up under car out the way, fairly straightforward just watch for engine rocking and trapping your arm if you have already removed the rear mount to crossmember!

Here is how i left clutch slave and bracket etc...
You cannot view this attachment.

Quote from: thetyrant on July  4, 2020, 11:59Nice job on subframe/mot etc now the fun begins.

Getting slave cylinder off engine/box isnt as bad as it first looks, 2 x 10mm bolts you can get at from underneath reaching around engine mount to remove it, leave all hydraulics connected as they are a bugger to bleed up, hose is clipped onto bracket part of front engine mount and you can either cut a slot to get it out or leave it on,  i chose to leave it attached and removed the bracket part from gearbox and tied it and slave up under car out the way, fairly straightforward just watch for engine rocking and trapping your arm if you have already removed the rear mount to crossmember!

Here is how i left clutch slave and bracket etc...
You cannot view this attachment.

Thanks for that, I need to get under the car at some point soon anyway to have enough clearance to drop the manifold and cat (or get to the 3 manifold to cat bolts). Was planning to keep the slave cylinder attached to the lines and pull it off the box and tuck it out the way.

Have no clue how to get that driver side engine mount bolt off though, its stuck on there solid and there isn't really any room to get a breaker bar under there as there is an engine in the way! The passenger side mount and subframe to engine mount is loose which is good, just need to soak the rear one when I get under there.

Currently battling with trying to get the fuel rail off, I have the push connector tool things but they can't be used as there is a notch on the fuel rail pipe so it doesn't really slide onto connector - might just cut it and convert over to the Radium rail but a deadhead system, although would be easier if I could get that fuel rail off!!

Driver side engine mount you undo the 3 x 14mm nuts on underside so it can drop down away from the mount, which i left connected to car body

Fuel rail is a bugger to release and after a tip form Dick Sloan i used a cut up nozzle from a tube of silcone to get it to release but was a real fiddle getting sizing right, lot of trial and error and pushing and pulling at fuel rail until it finally just popped off,  im hoping it goes better when i swap the original engine back in, if not can always just remove fuel rail from head and leave it connected to feed pipe.

Keep up the good work, ive been putting my pistons with new rings in this morning, now time to get valves back in head then i can hopefully mate the 2 back together