You unclip the fuel rail hose where it connects to the piping coming from the tank. There's a white clip you have to squeeze.  Then the fuel rail is free.

I'd take the whole engine mount out of the car - three 10mm nuts under the aluminium bracket and three bolts that hold the 'legs' to the car.  Gives you much more working room.  Also makes putting the engine back a lot easier.

Quote from: thetyrant on July  4, 2020, 13:27Driver side engine mount you undo the 3 x 14mm nuts on underside so it can drop down away from the mount, which i left connected to car body

Fuel rail is a bugger to release and after a tip form Dick Sloan i used a cut up nozzle from a tube of silcone to get it to release but was a real fiddle getting sizing right, lot of trial and error and pushing and pulling at fuel rail until it finally just popped off,  im hoping it goes better when i swap the original engine back in, if not can always just remove fuel rail from head and leave it connected to feed pipe.

Keep up the good work, ive been putting my pistons with new rings in this morning, now time to get valves back in head then i can hopefully mate the 2 back together 

Managed to get the connection to the fuel rail off at last, actually harder than removing some of the bolts for the subframe!

I think I am going to remove the bolts from under the car instead - might still see if I can make the top bolt budge but I guess you need to remove all of that mount to be able to drop it through the engine bay!

I am going to fit my Radium rail with the stock injectors (I have a full seal rebuild kit) and will then run it as a deadhead system running AN6 fittings on the rail and the top of the fuel hat. I will then change over to the return system at some point later as I would need additional fuel fittings, FPR, upgraded pump etc whereas to get the engine running I just need the stock fuel system etc. Might run an additional fuel line and cap both ends next to the deadhead system so I would just need to fit the additional fittings to each end to go for the return system without needing to try and feed another line through and past the engine!

Next on the list is the 3 bolts on the exhaust manifold to cat for me to be able to remove the exhaust manifold - think they are 16mm bolts which is typical as I don't have any impact sockets that size!

Quick update:

Exhaust is now fully off, main cat bracket has rusted through so will get a temporary strap for run in but will probably change the whole exhaust over at some point.

Driver side engine mount bolt has now loosened - took a few days of soaking...oh and a 1" drive 60" breaker bar

All I have left to do is:

Slave cylinder removal from gearbox
Rear engine mount to loosen
Unclip a few wires to ensure the loom that drops with the engine isn't attached to the car!

Will also try and work out where the engine lift points are - could perhaps put the exhaust back on and use that or might be a case of just lowering the car down onto something then lifting the body off the engine?

Good work

As for lifting points i didnt bother and just used 2 ratchet straps as slings under engine and gearbox, i think the lift points are on top of head but sure someone will confirm.

Quote from: thetyrant on July  5, 2020, 16:46Good work

As for lifting points i didnt bother and just used 2 ratchet straps as slings under engine and gearbox, i think the lift points are on top of head but sure someone will confirm.

Yes on the corners they are open holes that are part of the casting. 

Quote from: Carolyn on July  5, 2020, 16:49

Quote from: thetyrant on July  5, 2020, 16:46Good work

As for lifting points i didnt bother and just used 2 ratchet straps as slings under engine and gearbox, i think the lift points are on top of head but sure someone will confirm.

Yes on the corners they are open holes that are part of the casting. 

Thanks for that, I will check the engine for those, they usually have engine lift point brackets rather than being part of the block/head. Will probably use a combination of the lift points and ratchet straps as I am dropping the engine,gearbox, subframe and hubs etc as one assembly.

Just found a diagram with the hoist points - looks don't think my current engine has them but I am sure I can just use bolts, think one of the mounts are currently where a head earthing point is - intake side next to the timing end.

For anyone who needs to check the lift points, I have found a few photos of a 1zz fitted with the hooks for the hoist:





Holes seem to be M12 and around 22mm deep - sounds like I can use a spare set of bolts from the engine mount for them Intake side uses the same bolt hole as the earthing strap.

Spec clutch has arrived, currently trying to loosen up the lower arm from chassis to hub, will continue with it later.

I have ordered some running in oil, have some gearbox oil and bought some Toyota red coolant.

Will try and get the fluids drained later tonight from the car.

All oil is now drained, the chassis to hub arm bolts are 100% stuck even after soaking them for about a month at this point, leaves me no choice but to put the car on axle stands at the back and pull the drive shafts and subframe out again from the hub and drop the engine and box as one without any of the other parts attached.

Chassis to hub arm bolts are now loose, took a 4 foot breaker bar and probably about a metre worth of socket extensions but they are free.

Next on the list is driveshafts, might try and pull them tonight after getting the car onto axle stands, at this point it should be fairly easy to drop the subframe again.

Coolant lines have been removed from the engine and I have worked out which cables/hoses go with the engine and which stay behind!

Next steps will be:

Jack up car
Drop the subframe
Remove driveshafts
Remove clutch slave cylinder
Remove front engine bracket
Remove other part of front engine bracket (clutch line goes through it)

At this point the engine should be ready to drop out so I would then pull off the rear bumper, crash bar etc so that the engine crane has access.

After that I will need to move all of the parts over to the new engine that I need including the wiring harness, alternator, starter motor etc. I do also have to install the flywheel, clutch and front crank pulley as well but these can be done just before the box is bolted on - I have left these off at the moment as I wanted to reduce the weight of the engine for ease of movement.

Next major issue I have come up against, the Competition clutch lightweight flywheel doesn't fit - the centre bore is about 0.5mm too small so won't fit a stock 1zz crank. Think I will have to look to sand down the flywheel slightly as its a very close fit but it just won't go on. Good news is that the Spec clutch fits on the flywheel so at least part of it will go straight on!

Have you spoken to CC about flywheel as that is not good and the bore needs to be perfect fit to prevent imbalance, doubt you would be able to get it good enough by hand even if you could removed enough material, seems a shame to attempt it on such a quality rebuild setup i would speak to CC about it.

Edit i see the 2zz has a different bore size to 1zz so maybe you have the wrong flywheel ? 

Quote from: thetyrant on July 15, 2020, 13:37Have you spoken to CC about flywheel as that is not good and the bore needs to be perfect fit to prevent imbalance, doubt you would be able to get it good enough by hand even if you could removed enough material, seems a shame to attempt it on such a quality rebuild setup i would speak to CC about it.

Edit i see the 2zz has a different bore size to 1zz so maybe you have the wrong flywheel ? 

Will be taking it to a machine shop later to get it corrected to the correct size, its a 1zz flywheel as the bolt pattern is different on the 1zz vs 2zz for the end of the crank - have checked they line up ok with long bolts so its just a case of needing to remove 0.25mm from the inside of the bore it seems.

Will be attempting to remove the driveshafts today, not looking forward to it as I know the passenger side doesn't usually come out easily.

Old engine is out, labeling up the loom to move parts over to the new engine, found an issue with the 90 degree coolant fitting as it doesn't index correctly - if this leaks the new engine will have to be removed from the car again to fix as its behind the intake manifold.

Right, many many things have happened over the past 3 days, have pulled the loom and all ancillaries from the old engine and moved it over to the new, plus finished off the engine build as well (one final push).

This is BTW not how to do it!





First major issue I found is a 90 degree coolant fitting in the head which wouldn't index correctly, I added PTFE tape as its a BSP fitting - its a taper male into a parallel female thread. There are actually now swivel BSP fittings due to the pain of indexing them correctly! Anyway, with the PTFE tape on I turned it hand tight then nipped it up to where it needed to be. It might not look a stressful fix but if this fitting leaks the whole engine has to come out again! I could however rock the whole engine on the 90 degree fitting so it should be sealed!



Just before fitting the gearbox together:



There was also the gearbox issue that stumped me a bit, it looks like the dowel at the bottom of the picture came with the gearbox on the engine from that setup and the block had the same dowel but it was stuck in the block side from that donor engine. Basically I needed to pull out the dowel from the block side as there were twice as many dowels as I needed! Once this was done the box actually went on ok.



After a bit of a fight with various jacks, bolt holes and hoists it went back in though, the very very long cable is from the Bosch knock sensor as I have upgraded to that from the single wire - it lives behind the intake manifold and is impossible to get to with the engine in.







Will hopefully be able to torque up the suspension components later today, fill the gearbox with oil, add a priming tube to the oil pressure port and do some final checks before dropping the car down again for a bit.

Plan will be to use a 12v fluid transfer pump to pump the break in oil into the high pressure circuit via the oil pressure sensor port to prime the engine as the oil HAS to go via the main bearings, rod bearings and camshaft bearing surfaces to be able to get back to the sump. This will mean that the engine should be pre primed before I turn the engine over (although will do so without injectors or plugs first). This will mean that the bearings will be fully oiled any any muck that might have got into the system will be flushed out into the sump to then be caught by the filter before going back into the engine.

Looking good

Regarding tightening of suspension bolts in case you dont know you can not do this until car is sat on its wheels with suspension at normal ride height, reason being the way most of the bushes work is they are fixed centres and bush twists as suspension moves, if you tighten the arms with car jacked up they will have to twist a lot further than normal and shorten lifespan etc.

Keep up the good progress

Quote from: thetyrant on July 20, 2020, 08:21Looking good

Regarding tightening of suspension bolts in case you dont know you can not do this until car is sat on its wheels with suspension at normal ride height, reason being the way most of the bushes work is they are fixed centres and bush twists as suspension moves, if you tighten the arms with car jacked up they will have to twist a lot further than normal and shorten lifespan etc.

Keep up the good progress

Thanks for that, will look to go through all bolts to tighten them a bit first though but there are bolts like the hub nuts and strut bolts that I can torque up already.

I think I also have one or 2 bolts which I need to chase the threads on, one on the passenger side engine mount (its still held on with 3 other large bolts though!) and one of them on the front engine mount (again with 2 large bolts also holding it solid).

You can't really see it in the photos but the Moroso sump looks epic - need to see how much extra oil it needs with that, think its something like 2 quarts extra so an extra 1.8 litres.

Quote from: thetyrant on July 20, 2020, 08:21Looking good

Regarding tightening of suspension bolts in case you dont know you can not do this until car is sat on its wheels with suspension at normal ride height, reason being the way most of the bushes work is they are fixed centres and bush twists as suspension moves, if you tighten the arms with car jacked up they will have to twist a lot further than normal and shorten lifespan etc.

Keep up the good progress

One can also jack the suspension to normal running height with the car on still on stands, which makes the job less irksome.

Quote from: Carolyn on July 20, 2020, 08:41

Quote from: thetyrant on July 20, 2020, 08:21Looking good

Regarding tightening of suspension bolts in case you dont know you can not do this until car is sat on its wheels with suspension at normal ride height, reason being the way most of the bushes work is they are fixed centres and bush twists as suspension moves, if you tighten the arms with car jacked up they will have to twist a lot further than normal and shorten lifespan etc.

Keep up the good progress

One can also jack the suspension to normal running height with the car on still on stands, which makes the job less irksome.

I was also thinking this - will work through a few options, car will need a full alignment anyway, will probably look to get that sorted once the engine is broken in and I am happy that its all working as it should.

What turbo manifold is that by the way?

Quote from: jvanzyl on July 20, 2020, 09:15What turbo manifold is that by the way?

Its an OBX-R manifold, think its a T3 flange, although have an adaptor to T25, I think I will be going for a slightly smaller turbo initially before jumping to a larger turbo. Will probably order one of those cast turbokits T25 manifolds when I do bolt a turbo on, will be running this engine NA on the stock ECU for break in and for a bit. I only really fitted that turbo manifold on the engine to protect the side of the block if the engine tipped over in the garage, plus it was a handy handle when moving the engine around the bay!

Still have a lot of things to sort and check before I can fire it up - need to get a fuel rail adaptor to run my Radium rail but I can take my time a bit more now as I can get to all of the parts.

I have disconnected the stock knock sensor as I have the Bosch unit, I will see if the stock ECU throws an engine code - I did make sure I can get to the connector for the sensor so I can always plug it in but leave it out the block etc.

I am taking my time with the next few steps, I have noticed that its quite hard to screw in the oil pressure sensor as the pipework is quite close to the sensor - will check on the old engine where its meant to sit but might be clocked slightly incorrectly. Might be a case of pulling off the oil filter (unfortunately pre filled with oil!) and loosening the oil cooler sandwich plate to rotate it slightly with the large 30mm nut. I installed a new O ring and washer when I put it back in on Sunday so should be ok if I need to rotate it slightly, didn't install the sensor at the time as it would be something that could get knocked. Not too concerned though as I can get to the part easily from under the car so no real issue.

I have ordered some upgraded poly bushes for the shifter linkage, the car actually has skateboard bearings but were quite stuck on there when I took them off so need to swap them out for something better.

Next stage of the project is to go through and torque all bolts, the car is back on its wheels now so I can tighten up the various lower arm bolts.

The driveshaft nuts need to be torqued to something ridiculous so will need to tighten those up when on the ground with someone pressing the brakes.

Currently in the process of filling the car with coolant, using the OEM Toyota red coolant but I will probably be changing out the radiator at some point so will do a full flush when the time comes.

Rear crash bar and bumper is back on as well as the rear lights, just checking through the wiring and coolant hoses - no leaks so far with the coolant topped up which is good.

The final few fuel parts arrived today, planning to just run the Radium rail as a deadhead system like OEM with an quick connector to AN6 fitting - will mean I can easily upgrade in the future when the time comes.

Once everything is torqued up I will then refit the exhaust, air filter, battery tray and battery, just the oil pressure sensor that seems to be the next sticking point.

Plan to start the engine (with a helper)

Rocker cover off + no injectors plugged in
Put barbed fitting into oil pressure sensor port
Use the 12v fluid pump to add in oil to the engine - once it comes up to the head I will know that there is oil on all bearings
At this point I will probably turn the engine over by hand to check the timing and that the tensioner is set
Rocker cover on
Oil pressure sensor screwed in (blue loctite is mentioned in the manual)
Fill engine until oil is on the dipstick - engine now takes 5.8 litres of oil!
Key on to first position
Check for any fuel leaks
Turn engine over with plugs out and open throttle plate
Hopefully see the oil pressure light go out
Check for coolant leaks
Plug in injectors and put plugs and coils back in
Check oil level
Turn key to start
Check for oil, fuel and coolant leaks

After a bit of a mission a couple of weekends ago the old engine was dropped, the loom and all ancillaries were swapped over, engine then went back in.

It all fired up last weekend just to check for leaks, I have just fired it up today and have started driving it for the break in period. So far so good, have around 12 miles so far with various revs and load, will be dropping the oil at 50 miles, putting in more break in oil and a new filter and will continue for another period of break in.

The Spec stage 3+ clutch (rated to 400ft/lbs) is only slightly more aggressive than stock and I didn't really notice the difference - it has a 500 mile break in so I am guessing it might bed in and become slightly more aggressive after that.

The JUBU 3rd and 4th Helical cut gears are fairly loud, although I know I need to use them to be able to hold the power I am planning, engine currently feels quite strong with decent exhaust pulses. The engine has a lower compression than a stock engine but has a tiny bit more displacement due to the 0.5mm overbore so I think it works out at something like 1% different to stock when taking the CR drop into hand.

Currently breaking it in on the stock ECU - its thrown a code for lack of knock sensor which is fine, might plug the stock one back into the loom so its happy, the Bosch knock sensor is yet to be wired into the Link Xtreme but will be done soon - not too worried if the ECU is running on a very safe map at the moment but feels like its running well.

Engine has just gone past 50 miles of break in with various load levels as well as consistent load then a period of cooling the rings etc.

Will be dropping the oil later and changing the filter over but its almost there, only had an oil leak from the rocker cover gasket which has been sorted and there is a small leak from the Moroso sump although I think it might be the various drain plugs - will look to add some sealant onto the turbo drain bung etc later.

I have noticed that when initially starting the break in process the engine did heat up fairly quickly (makes sense if the parts are rubbing against each other more). I haven't run the engine past 5k rpm yet but it has been on 50-75% throttle for a period of time. I can tell that its starting to break in though as I can feel the engine is becoming slightly more free-er revving as well as feeling it pull slightly stronger. When starting to break it in I could tell it wasn't that free above say 3.5k rpm, now its very smooth up to around 4.5-5k rpm.

I know that the break in process is complete after around 60-120 miles so will drop the oil at 50 miles as it would probably have a fair amount of initial wear as well as all of the engine assembly oils etc, will then run some more fresh break in oil for another 100 miles or maybe the tank of fuel before switching over to normal mineral oil.