high power 2zz swap by jaworjawor

Started by jaworjawor, May 22, 2015, 20:26

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jaworjawor

#200
February 24, 2016, 15:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I oversized it myself   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  just cut away metal, so the opening is as large as whole pickup

yes I have ac

shnazzle

#201
February 24, 2016, 15:55 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "jaworjawor"I oversized it myself   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  just cut away metal, so the opening is as large as whole pickup

yes I have ac
Haha I should have known it would have been a solution like that
...neutiquam erro.

jeffsimply

#202
February 24, 2016, 17:07 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
How do you find the ride with the polybushes?

I'm considering it for mine. Which is a road car that occasionally sees the track. So I want to retain some degree of comfort.

jaworjawor

#203
February 25, 2016, 19:32 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I didnt notice any downsize at all, my old rubber bushes were worn out (150 k km) so the difference in handling was big, before the car was quite scary ie going uphill or downhill on curve, now it is how it should be from factory

jaworjawor

#204
March 17, 2016, 20:53 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
hi guys, I have a little problem with my mr... last week after fuelling up (shell v power nitro) and driving ca 5-10 kms I noticed strange engine bogging, hesitating at 2000-3000rpm with full throttle. At higher revs everything seemed fine. didnt have any strange engine codes except for problems with catalyzer (because I dont have one so I am used to these truble codes) but pcm scan showed me one pending code P0171. It means fuel mixture too lean. It could be caused by:

-too low fuel pressure (not likely I think, or maybe bad injector?)
-intake air leak (possible, because of my intake manifold gasket)
-water in fuel (that was my first thought as it all started just after filling up fuel)
-exhaust leak (didnt see any cracks or louder noise)

I also decided to check my spark plugs (which I installed brand new when assembling engine ca 5000 miles ago) and look what I found:








So now there is question - Is my fuel mixture really lean (even though the code was only pending) and it caused two plugs to crack? Or bad fuel caused that? Or maybe the plugs were faulty and they caused problems with engine?

Tomorrow Ill buy new plugs and I am in between Ngk BKR6EIX-11or colder BKR7EIX-11 - what do you think?

shnazzle

#205
March 17, 2016, 20:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Sweet jesus! What happened to your plugs???
You're running way way way too lean causing temperatures to be mental. Those plugs have been deep fried.
What are your valves like you have to wonder.
...neutiquam erro.

jonty

#206
March 17, 2016, 21:12 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I would guess it has been lean, I can only imagine plugs would do that from excessive heat. Maybe the winter fuel mix is not good for the 2zz? Even though they call it the same thing, I bet the v power nitro is a different blend through the seasons...

Have you had fuel starvation? I see the picture of you with the gas can, maybe when it was running out this happened?

shnazzle

#207
March 17, 2016, 21:14 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Actually... Aren't you running stage2 cams without a piggyback ECU?
Doesn't that cause massively advanced timing without fueling to match?
...neutiquam erro.

jonty

#208
March 17, 2016, 21:24 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
That won't change timing or AFR (cam just let's air in, nothing to do with spark timing) but because more air is in the cylinder it may be closer to det, in which case richening up would help avoid it...

jaworjawor

#209
March 17, 2016, 21:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Yes Im running stage 2 cams on stock 2zz ecu, but mwr say the stock ecu can manage these cams. i didnt have ane afr related trouble code before, on earlier engines neither. Could bad fuel (water in fuel) cause that? Right now I am waiting for my mechanic friend to check engine, we will do compression test to check if engine internals are ok, but despite bogging on wot the engine seemed to run just fine

Paul1087

#210
March 17, 2016, 23:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I recently had a p0171 as a result of a faulty lambda sensor.

jaworjawor

#211
March 20, 2016, 15:20 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
todays work:
-replaced lambda sensor
-checke fuel pump, seemed ok,
-removed few liter of fuel from the bottom of the tank, but the fuel looked ok to me
-added liqui moly fuel additive to clean injectors, pistons, valves
-removed all injectors and did flow check, theyre all ok
-installed second lambda sensor emulator to get rido of check engine light (no cat)

Started engine, idled for few minutes, the revs waved from time to time, but all in all engine worked ok, no trouble codes.

Tomorrow I will install new plugs and see what happens















CrazySX

#212
March 20, 2016, 23:20 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Bit risky taking pics inside the tank. Be careful lol!

How did you flow check the injectors?

shnazzle

#213
March 20, 2016, 23:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "CrazySX"Bit risky taking pics inside the tank. Be careful lol!

How did you flow check the injectors?
I was wondering the same. Some special home made rig?  s:) :) s:)
...neutiquam erro.

jaworjawor

#214
March 21, 2016, 10:08 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
old fuel pump, hose, some fuel and 12v battery. All my injectors flowed 150ml in 20 seconds.

Today I replaced plugs for new ngk ones, 1 step colder. The car runs fine, no hesitation or engine bogging at all, but engine stalls from time to time when warm  s:( :( s:(  also when hitting high revs and pressing clutch, revs fall and engine stalls when driving. No check engine light, but there are pending trouble codes - p0300 and p0450   s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

shnazzle

#215
March 21, 2016, 10:16 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
You've already checked the fuel pump right? Charcoal canister connections all ok? Been overfilling with fuel by any chance?

The P0450 came up on our celica, which went away after I changed the fuel pump. It's something to do with one of the sensors for in-tank fuel pressure or something

EDIT: Sorry, the above makes NO sense. Not in-tank fuel pressure, but the pressure of the vapours
...neutiquam erro.

CrazySX

#216
March 21, 2016, 15:45 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "jaworjawor"old fuel pump, hose, some fuel and 12v battery. All my injectors flowed 150ml in 20 seconds.

Today I replaced plugs for new ngk ones, 1 step colder. The car runs fine, no hesitation or engine bogging at all, but engine stalls from time to time when warm  s:( :( s:(  also when hitting high revs and pressing clutch, revs fall and engine stalls when driving. No check engine light, but there are pending trouble codes - p0300 and p0450   s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

do you need to put power to the injector? or is the 12v only for the pump?

jaworjawor

#217
March 21, 2016, 16:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
you need 12v for pump (dont miss +/- on pump or it will work the other way) and 12v for injector to open. I did the same injector test when assembling the engine, and 1 in 8 injectors I had was faulty! It flowed like 20% of the rest, I was really glad I did the test otherwise I had 50% chance of damaging new engine

My problems with stalling are gone, I reseted ecu and now everything is back to normal. I think it was something with the fuel, because everything else was ok (except for plugs, but they could be damaged by bad fuel). I added half of bottle of water remover just to be sure. Tomorrow I will change oil and filter





shnazzle

#218
March 21, 2016, 16:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Good news. Hopefully it's permanently sorted
...neutiquam erro.

CrazySX

#219
March 21, 2016, 17:29 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "jaworjawor"you need 12v for pump (dont miss +/- on pump or it will work the other way) and 12v for injector to open. I did the same injector test when assembling the engine, and 1 in 8 injectors I had was faulty! It flowed like 20% of the rest, I was really glad I did the test otherwise I had 50% chance of damaging new engine

My problems with stalling are gone, I reseted ecu and now everything is back to normal. I think it was something with the fuel, because everything else was ok (except for plugs, but they could be damaged by bad fuel). I added half of bottle of water remover just to be sure. Tomorrow I will change oil and filter






Good work buddy!  I think i might just get them cleaned and flow tested, i have had a quick look and its £12.50 an injector, and based on what you have told us above, seems like its an activity worth doing!!

jaworjawor

#220
March 26, 2016, 13:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
holiday cleaning...


















next week oil change and new bucket seat  s:) :) s:)




I also watched new spark plugs, I did 20-30 miles on them. The car runs perfectly good now with no cel, but still I think theres problem with lean mixture. I still have half a tack of thet bad fuel, filled up to full with 98 petrol and I will still watch the plugs from time to time




jaworjawor

#221
May 9, 2016, 07:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
First round of milanocup rallyspirnt is away, I managed to score 1st plasce in class and 6th in general of 50 cars   s:D :D s:D  




The rist two runs I was head to head with evo9 460ps fighting for 3rd place, but on last round my rear tires said good-bye and it was over  s:) :) s:)  but I had really mich fun and car was great. The biggest surprise of the dat was 1st place in general of little citroen saxo - the car was set up perfectly and the driver did no mistakes, all guys form powerful evos and imprezas were scratchind their heads hardly  s:) :) s:)  for me it is now time to invest on some good bucket seats and proper suspension setup, and of course new tires  s:) :) s:)













My times were 2:40,7, 2:40,1 i 2:45,5, but I was most happy with first run, as I had much tires yet

 m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zRgEbiCo9c m

 m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQ7s2aRGA08 m

 m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml-5UUgkMGg m

1979scotte

#222
May 9, 2016, 08:32 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Well done mate.

Typical evo/impreza guys. Just because you have all that power doesnt mean you know how to use it.
Saxo was a good handling car from the factory and that one looks almost rally spec.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

mark b

#223
May 10, 2016, 20:05 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
what a fantastic build credit to you

jaworjawor

#224
May 13, 2016, 19:30 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
new rear tires



also, I'm considering buying proper coilover. What BC model should I look at, and what spring rates to choose? I'm mainly driving on street, occasional once in month rallysprint od rough, uneven surfaces (watch last onboard) and once in a year proper trackday at nice, flat track
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