My 2000 Blue MR2 1ZZ-FE--->2ZZ-GE--->K20A2 fast road/track build

[JoeCool]

Don't think anyone will miss that colour   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Plus, if you think about it, while relieving them from their powertrain we can help keep other ones on the road. All in all for a good cause   s:D s:D

Whaddayamean?! Mine looked Lovely! /s

To be fair, my Phone did the colour no favours, but then neither did the peeling laquer or dents on every panel. Toyota have never been able to get red paint right, every MK1 MR2 in red ended up Pink.

I'm not sure, I think Corolla T-Sports are definitely dipping into the realms of the unloved. It's the wrong chassis for the engine and gearbox anyway, they simply don't fulfill the core function of the hot hatch which is great point to point handling. Hopefully a few enthusiasts will keep some nice examples and particularly the compressors on the road, but whilst they're sub £1000 for mechanically decent examples, and this swap is popular, I think their days are numbered!

[manos3003]

Don't think anyone will miss that colour   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Plus, if you think about it, while relieving them from their powertrain we can help keep other ones on the road. All in all for a good cause   s:D s:D

Whaddayamean?! Mine looked Lovely! /s

To be fair, my Phone did the colour no favours, but then neither did the peeling laquer or dents on every panel. Toyota have never been able to get red paint right, every MK1 MR2 in red ended up Pink.

I'm not sure, I think Corolla T-Sports are definitely dipping into the realms of the unloved. It's the wrong chassis for the engine and gearbox anyway, they simply don't fulfill the core function of the hot hatch which is great point to point handling. Hopefully a few enthusiasts will keep some nice examples and particularly the compressors on the road, but whilst they're sub £1000 for mechanically decent examples, and this swap is popular, I think their days are numbered!

Mine has an awful paintwork, peeling all over and the crash on the front right serves it no justice.

I get why Toyota made this, as a competitor to hot hatches of that period (Golf GTi, Civic Type R, etc) and it is a lovely car, but there's three things wrong with it:
*It has 3 seats more than it should
*It has the engine in the wrong place
*It's front wheel drive

So, the 2zz is better off in my MR2   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[manos3003]

Looking to book Mallory Park after Feb having been egged-on by a workmate (thanks yiug412)  s:P s:P

Looking to put the coilovers and polybushes on and baseline the car on the track.

ARBs may or may not go into the car before then, we'll see.

Better stop being lazy and get some work done then  s:D s:D

[manos3003]

Looks like I'll be driving the donor for a while, while the MR2 is in a nice dry garage getting ready to be awakened at spring time. Should buy me the time to do some stuff on it, as well as get to know the donor powertrain a little bit better.

[JoeCool]

I'd recommend taking the cam cover off and inspecting your cams. Mine had a scored inlet cam, and having seen the wear to the follower it wasn't long for this world. Made a noticeable ticking at idle but was fine when moving. I got a replacement inlet cam and followers for £190 delivered, brand new oem Toyota parts so no great pain, but glad to have noticed it and sorted it. Apparently it's very common in elises.

[manos3003]

I'd recommend taking the cam cover off and inspecting your cams. Mine had a scored inlet cam, and having seen the wear to the follower it wasn't long for this world. Made a noticeable ticking at idle but was fine when moving. I got a replacement inlet cam and followers for £190 delivered, brand new oem Toyota parts so no great pain, but glad to have noticed it and sorted it. Apparently it's very common in elises.

Cheers Joe, already done that. Cams are in good health by the looks of it.   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[manos3003]

So, after some idling during the winter, there's the following to report:

1. Rexypow console to be fitted once some leather is glued on top.

2. Replacing rear tyres as the ones on are now barely legal (after 1 year of use?    s:scared: :scared: s:scared:    s:scared: :scared: s:scared:    s:scared: :scared: s:scared:   )

3. Polybushes will replace the tired bushes on the car

4. MeisterR coilovers

5. ARB droplinks will be replaced if needed

6. A much required wheel alignment

7. Track day in Rockingham to baseline the car before the 2zz swap in the summer (currently planned for end of Jul - beginning of Aug)


And that's all for now folks. I'll keep you posted as I go along  s:D s:D    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[Jrichards20]

Are you doing all the bushes? I'm still so undecided about polybushes. I'm hoping I can get away with part poly bushes on things like the traction rod and keep oem bushes for other bits. I read a post somewhere that Matt didn't feel the need to go all Polybushed as it wasn't necessary, and for him to say that for his car, it really does make me think.

I think you will need to replace the ARB droplinks  s:) s:)  for the price, it doesn't make sense not to when your doing the suspension  s;) s;)

[manos3003]

Are you doing all the bushes? I'm still so undecided about polybushes. I'm hoping I can get away with part poly bushes on things like the traction rod and keep oem bushes for other bits. I read a post somewhere that Matt didn't feel the need to go all Polybushed as it wasn't necessary, and for him to say that for his car, it really does make me think.

I think you will need to replace the ARB droplinks  s:) s:)  for the price, it doesn't make sense not to when your doing the suspension  s;) s;)

That can be subjective. I do trust Matt's judgement, but I will let my own experience tell me how that actually feels. Remember, I've built and raced racers before  s;) s;)  Having said that, a road car application is somewhat different. I will assess my car thoroughly both on track and road, to see how compliant it is and tell you guys my thoughts.

As for the ARB droplinks, it does indeed make sense. I do have a set at hand, it's just a matter of "are they still in a good condition, or do they need changing"?

[manos3003]

Still can't fit the coilovers, polybushes not with me yet. Polybush is terrible on timekeeping, but I'll have to admit Steve G (GT4 Play, where I placed the order) is a nice enough chap.

Once they're on, I'll also replace my rear tyres (they are now barely legal, there's toe on the rear, suspecting previous alignment was done as if it was a MK2) and do a full wheel alignment. Thinking zero toe all around and maybe slight camber.

Also need to replace rear ARB droplinks, knocking noise going over bumps means they might have snapped.

[tommyzoom99]

Still can't fit the coilovers, polybushes not with me yet. Polybush is terrible on timekeeping, but I'll have to admit Steve G (GT4 Play, where I placed the order) is a nice enough chap.

Once they're on, I'll also replace my rear tyres (they are now barely legal, there's toe on the rear, suspecting previous alignment was done as if it was a MK2) and do a full wheel alignment. Thinking zero toe all around and maybe slight camber.

Also need to replace rear ARB droplinks, knocking noise going over bumps means they might have snapped.

HI Manos

I wouldn't put zero toe on the rear this may/most likely will cause the rear wheels to toe out on acceleration which will make the car want to spin or cause lots of oversteer on power

I personally for track would put toe in on the rear of about 0.2 degrees and either zero toe on the front or some slight toe out for better turn in.

also the mr2s under cornering generate more camber on the rear so i would go for 2.5 degrees on the front camber and 2.0 degrees on the rear for a track set up

just my opinion but this is what im going to be running on my car now

cheers tommy

[manos3003]

HI Manos

I wouldn't put zero toe on the rear this may/most likely will cause the rear wheels to toe out on acceleration which will make the car want to spin or cause lots of oversteer on power

I personally for track would put toe in on the rear of about 0.2 degrees and either zero toe on the front or some slight toe out for better turn in.

also the mr2s under cornering generate more camber on the rear so i would go for 2.5 degrees on the front camber and 2.0 degrees on the rear for a track set up

just my opinion but this is what I'm going to be running on my car now

cheers tommy

I'd agree with you Tommy, 2.5 front and 2.0 rear camber sounds about right to me. As for toe, I lifted my car and it seems to have toe out rather than toe in. I'll give that setup a try once I have everything on and see what's what.

[Jrichards20]

Why are you going for more camber on the front than the rear?

I would agree with tommy on the 0 toe front and toe in on the rear. I'm looking at something like

-2 front -2.5 rear camber
0 toe front
around 0.2 toe in rear

[tommyzoom99]

Why are you going for more camber on the front than the rear?

I would agree with tommy on the 0 toe front and toe in on the rear. I'm looking at something like

-2 front -2.5 rear camber
0 toe front
around 0.2 toe in rear

the mr2 when cornering generates more camber on the rear than the front so in turn generates more grip at the rear giving you a under steer nature to the handling this is also effected if you run staggered tyres like 205 front and 225 rear which naturally makes the car more want to under steer more.

so less camber on the rear when the car is static generates equal camber when the car is cornering give a more neutral feel to the car

now this is personal preference i prefer a slight bit of oversteer or neutral handling so its up to you how the car is set up

cheers tommy

[tommyzoom99]

HI Manos

I wouldn't put zero toe on the rear this may/most likely will cause the rear wheels to toe out on acceleration which will make the car want to spin or cause lots of oversteer on power

I personally for track would put toe in on the rear of about 0.2 degrees and either zero toe on the front or some slight toe out for better turn in.

also the mr2s under cornering generate more camber on the rear so i would go for 2.5 degrees on the front camber and 2.0 degrees on the rear for a track set up

just my opinion but this is what I'm going to be running on my car now

cheers tommy

I'd agree with you Tommy, 2.5 front and 2.0 rear camber sounds about right to me. As for toe, I lifted my car and it seems to have toe out rather than toe in. I'll give that setup a try once I have everything on and see what's what.

well toe out on the front is ok like 0.2 degrees but not on the rear i would go with toe in

its all very subjective really depending on your tyre stagger and what kind of handling characteristics you want

the set-up i said is a neutral to slight overseer set-up which works for me

cheers tommy

[manos3003]

well toe out on the front is ok like 0.2 degrees but not on the rear i would go with toe in

its all very subjective really depending on your tyre stagger and what kind of handling characteristics you want

the set-up i said is a neutral to slight overseer set-up which works for me

cheers tommy

It may sound strange, but having the car slightly understeery is better to me.

[tommyzoom99]

well toe out on the front is ok like 0.2 degrees but not on the rear i would go with toe in

its all very subjective really depending on your tyre stagger and what kind of handling characteristics you want

the set-up i said is a neutral to slight overseer set-up which works for me

cheers tommy

It may sound strange, but having the car slightly understeery is better to me.[/quote]

not strange at all buddy if thats what you like

i would go toe in front and toe in rear then, around 0.2 degrees this will also give you straight line stability but compromise the initial turn in,  i would suggest standard Toyota setting for toe then as these cars are set up for understeer from the factory and if you like it to feel a bit understeery go with more camber on the rear or the same all round like 2 degrees front and back

cheers tommy

[manos3003]

not strange at all buddy if thats what you like

i would go toe in front and toe in rear then, around 0.2 degrees this will also give you straight line stability but compromise the initial turn in,  i would suggest standard Toyota setting for toe then as these cars are set up for understeer from the factory and if you like it to feel a bit understeery go with more camber on the rear or the same all round like 2 degrees front and back

cheers tommy

Heh, no need to go crazy. Neutral to slight understeer is fine.  s:) s:)

[manos3003]

Bushes are now with me.

1. Need to swap my rear tyres ASAP (no tread left), tomorrow.

2. Bushes, coilovers, drop-links etc next Monday.

3. Alignment on next Wednesday.

Should have a fully functional and healthy car ready for its MOT  s:D s:D

[justinread72]

Be prepared to have a old school fight with. Rusty bolts doing the bushes doing mine and it's a very time consuming. ,

Can wait to see how it goes 2zz power as well will be awesome

[lamcote]

How have you worked out the rear wheels get more negative camber than the front in roll?

My understanding is that the camber change is almost identical front to rear and that once you have factored in the camber gain on the front outside wheel arising from the caster angle, you actually get more negative camber gain on the front than on the back through a corner.

[tommyzoom99]

How have you worked out the rear wheels get more negative camber than the front in roll?

My understanding is that the camber change is almost identical front to rear and that once you have factored in the camber gain on the front outside wheel arising from the caster angle, you actually get more negative camber gain on the front than on the back through a corner.

When you have no shocks on your car get a inclinometer gauge put it on your hub and raise and lower the hub like when the suspension is in compressing the rear gains far more camber than the front

if you search the topic especially on spyderchat there is much discussion on there about it from far more knowledgeable people than me

im just going off what i have measured and what i have learnt from other people

cheers tommy

[lamcote]

Can you let me know how to do this, I would like to try it, surely if you take the shocks off, the hub will just hang down off the bottom mount won't it? How can you measure anything from that?

[Jrichards20]

How have you worked out the rear wheels get more negative camber than the front in roll?

My understanding is that the camber change is almost identical front to rear and that once you have factored in the camber gain on the front outside wheel arising from the caster angle, you actually get more negative camber gain on the front than on the back through a corner.

When you have no shocks on your car get a inclinometer gauge put it on your hub and raise and lower the hub like when the suspension is in compressing the rear gains far more camber than the front

if you search the topic especially on spyderchat there is much discussion on there about it from far more knowledgeable people than me

I'm just going off what i have measured and what i have learnt from other people

cheers tommy

But that doesn't compensate for weight balance during cornering it just shows the effect while emitting a force, not what force is acting when cornering. As said, I'm going for more negative camber as that's what I have used before, I find it gives a balanced/slight oversteer feel. But its very interesting to see that a few people are going more negative up front.

I know they are different cars, and will probably react different as they don't have McPherson struts, but elise, boxster, 4c all have more negative camber on the rear.

[lamcote]

Yes they do, I think that is to promote nice safe understeer for the typical user. I would say most track orientated cars have more negative camber on the front as this maximises front cornering grip and less camber at the back helps rear drive traction too.