M1tch's long term 1ZZ build - Project 11

[shnazzle]

It was the guy with the supercharged 2zz I think. Not Steve but the other dude.

[jvanzyl]

It was the guy with the supercharged 2zz I think. Not Steve but the other dude.

@kulmen I think...

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[m1tch]

Just one on the engine cooling. I'm obviously aware that you're going to be running more than twice the boost levels that I'm at but with the new sump you'll be surprised at the cooling effects. It adds more than 2 litres to oil capacity and is essentially a giant heat sink itself.
I'm running a tiny eBay special radiator at the moment but with the koyorad one that I have in the garage fitted I think the system will be pretty darn effective. Is twice(ish) the thickness of stock.
Just thought I'd mention.

Also I wonder if you just used an ally heatsink to the underside of the sump it would make much difference?

I will be running a Moroso baffled oil sump as well as a themostatic Mocal oil cooler for the engine, the Moroso oil sump holds additional oil so there is more thermal mass there to heat up, coupled with additional oil in the Accusump etc. Finned sumps aren't that new, I remember on my 1984 998 mini the sump was finned - probably due to the fact that the engine sump also had the gearbox in it and needed cooling somehow! Running a finned sump might make sense, however the ground clearance might be more of an issue so I think I will go with more active cooling - at least there are side air vents I can add the additional radiators into.

I watched a video a year or so back around the most important part of tuning - heat management, it was a team who were building a pikes peak car, sure the engine can make huge power but not sustained owing to the need to get rid of all the heat for both engine and intake. This would be the same when I do go to a track day in it as there will be sustained high RPMs, lots of heat to get rid of, as mentioned its the main reason the standard box fails, sure the 3rd and 4th gears are a bit weak but would be fine if the oil was at the correct viscosity and the internal parts were cooled.

I have a feeling I will probably be spending as much on cooling than I have on the machine work on the block - which I am picking up tomorrow along with the custom pistons and Molnar rods.

I also plan to get the wideband O2 pinned into the Link ECU over the next few days, there are a few configuration things I need to sort before its ready for a drive on the road, need to get the intake temp and coolant temp sensors correctly calibrated and it seems the plug and play Boomslang harness needs a few pins move around. Really looking forward to getting the car running on the Link ECU and then adjusted to my engine (basemap is from another car) - the Link ECU can quick tune the fueling using the wideband O2 and comparing it to the target AFRs for any given cell.

Using the Borg Warner turbo matcher and plugging in various figures for power it would seem that the engine should:

At 14psi should make 352 bhp and around 250 ft/lb torque
At 21psi should make 434 bhp and around 310 ft/lbs torque <--- might need to limit the torque at higher boost midrange

I am aiming to run an EFR 6758, at 7,800 rpm the engine needs around 45 lb/min at 21psi, I won't be running more than 21psi through the engine owing to reliability.

The good news is that it seems that the EFR 6758 is a T25 turbo with internal wastegate which will simplify the exhaust plumbing etc - although my T3 manifold (with a T25 adaptor) does have a wastegate port as well for an external wastegate which I might still run as well.

[m1tch]

Car is now running on the Link Xtreme ECU with the Wideband O2 wired into a CAN port, the logging on the ECU gives an updated mixture map for each of the cells and can either auto tune the fuel as I drive or I can manually gather the data and it will adjust the map accordingly.

The car is now running 100% on the MAP sensor, still have the MAF plugged in as I need the intake air temp which is coupled into it but will mean that I can now just fit it into a larger tube and not worry about MAF calibration etc.

Still working through setup of some of the settings, need to configure the knock sensor as I don't think the correct option has been selected so the knock control is pulling timing when it doesn't need to (because it thinks its knocking).

[m1tch]

I have now started to clear a space in the garage to convert into a temporary clean room, will be looking to use plastic sheeting on the wall as well as around the area to avoid any contamination during assembly. Everything will be cleaned many times before assembly, although I probably won't start the process for another couple of months as I need to get the head skimmed and the valvetrain ordered and put together.

I have also ordered some new OEM parts, will be going with the OEM 1zz oil pump and head gasket, I also have a replacement timing chain and gear however will be reusing the VVTi gear from the lower mileage 1st engine.

I am also looking to not use the King bearings I had already purchased for the engine and instead run with either Taiho or Daido bearings - these are the Toyota OEM bearing manufactures and I feel they will be suited to my road going application.

Worth noting that I won't be running full power all the time and even when I do look at track days I won't be running full power - project 11 just needs to prove that it can run a 1/4 mile time of 11.xxx on street tyres, after which the power will be turned down for day to day use. The rev limit will also be limited to 7,800 RPM (cams rated to 8k), and will be running a Canton accusump to ensure that oil pressure is maintained all the time if there is ever an issue with high rpm cavitation etc.

[m1tch]

I now have the CSS block back as well as the custom Traum forged pistons with rings, need to check the rest of the box to make sure the Molnar rods are in there but it all looks really good!

Next port of call for the engine is to setup a mini clean room so I can clean down the block and surfaces and test fit the bearings for clearance, will try initially with a set of King bearings but tempted to go with a set of OEM bearings instead from Taiho or Daido.

I have also found a facelift brochure for the car online, looks like the kerb weight is stated at 1,030kg - kerb weight seems to also include a fuel tank at 90% capacity as well, 48 litre tank = 43kg of weight so empty it would be at 987kg (need to check if that's correct for UK spec kerb weight). I will look to see if I can work out the weight of the car when doing the last drag run to work out the sort of power level the car would have - makes sense if it was lighter than I expected.

I also have a set of camber bolts for the front and rear ready for when coilovers arrive - along with new rear drop links and uprated Whiteline ARBs.

[Nvy]

I now have the CSS block back as well as the custom Traum forged pistons with rings, need to check the rest of the box to make sure the Molnar rods are in there but it all looks really good!

Next port of call for the engine is to setup a mini clean room so I can clean down the block and surfaces and test fit the bearings for clearance, will try initially with a set of King bearings but tempted to go with a set of OEM bearings instead from Taiho or Daido.

I have also found a facelift brochure for the car online, looks like the kerb weight is stated at 1,030kg - kerb weight seems to also include a fuel tank at 90% capacity as well, 48 litre tank = 43kg of weight so empty it would be at 987kg (need to check if that's correct for UK spec kerb weight). I will look to see if I can work out the weight of the car when doing the last drag run to work out the sort of power level the car would have - makes sense if it was lighter than I expected.

I also have a set of camber bolts for the front and rear ready for when coilovers arrive - along with new rear drop links and uprated Whiteline ARBs.

If your coils have top mount adjustment you will not need the camber bolts. But maybe you have something else in mind.

[m1tch]

I now have the CSS block back as well as the custom Traum forged pistons with rings, need to check the rest of the box to make sure the Molnar rods are in there but it all looks really good!

Next port of call for the engine is to setup a mini clean room so I can clean down the block and surfaces and test fit the bearings for clearance, will try initially with a set of King bearings but tempted to go with a set of OEM bearings instead from Taiho or Daido.

I have also found a facelift brochure for the car online, looks like the kerb weight is stated at 1,030kg - kerb weight seems to also include a fuel tank at 90% capacity as well, 48 litre tank = 43kg of weight so empty it would be at 987kg (need to check if that's correct for UK spec kerb weight). I will look to see if I can work out the weight of the car when doing the last drag run to work out the sort of power level the car would have - makes sense if it was lighter than I expected.

I also have a set of camber bolts for the front and rear ready for when coilovers arrive - along with new rear drop links and uprated Whiteline ARBs.

If your coils have top mount adjustment you will not need the camber bolts. But maybe you have something else in mind.

Coilovers don't have adjustable top mounts, hence needing both front and rear camber bolts - not looking for much camber anyway.

[m1tch]

I now have the CSS block, Traum pistons, Molnar rods, ARP head and main studs as well as flywheel bolts. I currently have a set of King bearings which I am going to initially install, current task is to clean everything and then check the oil clearances on the conrod and main bearings, I am reusing the crank from the initial engine I purchased which I checked was close to being almost new in terms of diameter and well within spec.

Looking at the workshop manual here are the oil clearances I am aiming for:

Main bearings

Min - 0.015mm (0.0006")
Max - 0.032mm (0.0013")
Limit - 0.050mm (0.0020")

Conrod bearings

Min - 0.028mm (0.0011")
Max - 0.060mm (0.0024")
Limit - 0.080mm (0.0031")

Looking at the min and max I have worked out the centre point of the range being:

Main - 0.235mm
Conrod - 0.044mm

It will be a while before I will be assembling the engine for install so will be checking the clearances and then will probably take it apart again as the assembly oil may or may not be 100% perfect when I come round to building the rest of the engine. I still have the cylinder head to build up as well along with the gearbox rebuild and still need a few upgraded parts such as the sump and flywheel.

[m1tch]

I have now swapped over the exhaust to a much smaller silencer and removed the TTE, not had a chance to take it on the open road yet but its not much louder on idle which is good as I don't want to annoy the neighbors!

Stock TTE exhaust came to 13kg
Lightweight exhaust came to 6.5kg

Therefore I have an additional 6.5kg weight saving off the back of the car behind the axle which is great in moving the weight forward slightly. I also removed the large heat shield that usually covers the exhaust as the lightweight exhaust was heat wrapped and also much smaller and further away from anything that might melt! Still need to weigh these parts but might be an extra kg in weight from those parts.

With regards to overall weight saving, from my initial drag run to the new exhaust I would have a weight reduction of 74.4kg - running less fuel in the tank should push me up near the 100kg weight reduction.

[m1tch]

I have now checked the clearance on the main bearings - they are well within spec at around 0.025mm so in the middle of the range for oil clearance. I need to purchase some sealant that goes between the block and the bearing girdle however the main studs are in etc so its just a case of checking crank end play and I can button up the block. I need to take it all apart again anyway so will check the conrod clearances whilst the crank is out.

Having torqued the main studs down (they are reusable ARP studs) all of the clearances were the same across the main bearings, I also put some oil on the bearings and torqued it down again, no binding at all and its free moving which is great.

Order of play next for the engine is:

Order block and girdle sealant
Take apart and clean everything again
Torque block down again with thrust washers in to check for end play
Take apart and clean everything again
Check clearance on the conrods
If ok, clean everything again and then add sealant
Put the crank in place and torque down the ARP main studs for the last time and use engine assembly oil for first start protection

From there I will re-wrap the engine with basically catering clingfilm to keep all of the muck out of the engine, I might also attached a spare sump I have which will need to be cleaned out to protect the mating surface for the oil pan - need to order a Moroso pan for the build.

I will then look to send off the cylinder head once I work out what is happening with the intake manifold, currently have 5 options:

Fit the stock plastic 1zz intake manifold and hope it doesn't fail
Buy a really expensive stock plastic 1zz manifold with the divider removed from MWR
Fit the OEM metal 1zz intake manifold - will need modifying slightly to fit a larger throttle body and maybe plenum
Modify a 2zz intake manifold to fit onto the 1zz manifold - looking into options of either redrilling, creating an adapter plate or getting a 1zz flange welded on
Go fully custom

[KRAMSNEHPETS]

Lot of work, end result should be worth it

[m1tch]

Lot of work, end result should be worth it

It is indeed quite a lot of work but should be worth it as I will know every piece of the engine and setup with the benefit of being able to increase or decrease the power level with the different levels of boost. The reason why I have kept with the 1zz is that its the engine Toyota fitted to the car, if I wasn't going to use the 1zz I would have probably gone with a 1.8t or K swap instead - if I am going to do an engine swap I might as well swap something else in, quite interested at the 20B swap I have seen.

My build will be gearbox limited, although I won't be running full power all the time, just need to get the power up there enough to run an 11 second 1/4 mile to prove that the car can do it, I will then just turn the boost down for normal driving. If I rev it to 8k RPM it should make around 430bhp at 21psi which should be a mid 11 pass if the car weighs 1,000kg - think I need around 340bhp or so to get into the 11s.

I think the plan will be to build the engine up over the winter and then look to swap it out after next year's MOT, will be running NA initially to bed it in, can then easily swap out the fuel rail and exhaust manifolds etc, its all of the internal parts that I can't really swap out!

[1979scotte]

Don't scrimp.
Wherever I have tried to save money on my build is where things have gone wrong.
Do it right the first time will be easier and cheaper long term.

[m1tch]

Don't scrimp.
Wherever I have tried to save money on my build is where things have gone wrong.
Do it right the first time will be easier and cheaper long term.

Yep, not scrimping on anything, Link Xtreme ECU, ARP studs, Moroso pan, Supertech valves, custom pistons, Molnar forged rods as well as using OEM Toyota parts on the refresh, not reusing any of the seals or gasket. It will take me quite a while to pull all of the parts together, which is fine as I am in no rush, looking at the EFR 6758 for the turbo which should be able to run fine at the top end but still be ok at lower boost levels.

[1979scotte]

Don't scrimp.
Wherever I have tried to save money on my build is where things have gone wrong.
Do it right the first time will be easier and cheaper long term.

Yep, not scrimping on anything, Link Xtreme ECU, ARP studs, Moroso pan, Supertech valves, custom pistons, Molnar forged rods as well as using OEM Toyota parts on the refresh, not reusing any of the seals or gasket. It will take me quite a while to pull all of the parts together, which is fine as I am in no rush, looking at the EFR 6758 for the turbo which should be able to run fine at the top end but still be ok at lower boost levels.

Talking about the intake manifold.
Either get a metal one from an early car or go custom.

On another note what wastegate and BOV are you going for?
Beware anything cheap on eBay none of it worked well for my build.
Saying that don't all the EFR turbos have it all built in?

[m1tch]

Don't scrimp.
Wherever I have tried to save money on my build is where things have gone wrong.
Do it right the first time will be easier and cheaper long term.

Yep, not scrimping on anything, Link Xtreme ECU, ARP studs, Moroso pan, Supertech valves, custom pistons, Molnar forged rods as well as using OEM Toyota parts on the refresh, not reusing any of the seals or gasket. It will take me quite a while to pull all of the parts together, which is fine as I am in no rush, looking at the EFR 6758 for the turbo which should be able to run fine at the top end but still be ok at lower boost levels.

Talking about the intake manifold.
Either get a metal one from an early car or go custom.

On another note what wastegate and BOV are you going for?
Beware anything cheap on eBay none of it worked well for my build.
Saying that don't all the EFR turbos have it all built in?

I have a 99-02 1zz metal intake manifold coming over from the states, the plenum is tiny so might look to mod it slightly to add some extra volume to the plenum coupled with possibly adding a larger throttlebody.

I have a 2zz manifold on the workbench in the garage I am currently looking at redrilling for the 1zz flange - seems that it might actually work simply redrilling the manifold with a different stud pattern as none of the 1zz studs on the head interfere with the 2zz runners - the 2zz runners are just much larger!

I believe the EFR turbo I plan to get has both an integrated BOV as well as it having an internal wastegate, I do however have a Baileys BOV sitting on the shelf, think its a DV26, and my exhaust manifold has provision for an external wastegate - will look at getting a Tial if needed.

I am pretty much set with the parts I need for the engine in terms of internals, still need to order a few items, now starting to focus on the other parts such as the intake and fuel system.

I have also noticed that I actually have a 2 piece 2zz intake manifold not the 1 piece 2zz intake manifold so I can easily unbolt the 2 halves and lightly port the runners if needed - seems that the 2 piece is slightly more sought after.

[m1tch]

I now have a Clutchmaster lightweight flywheel currently looking into clutch options at the moment but not a huge rush.

I have also ordered some engine assembly oil and some gasket maker - the service manual calls for Toyota 103 seal packing FIPG however its only available in the states and would cost around £75 from the dealer to import - will be going with some Permatex ultra black.

All of the OEM gaskets have also arrived from Japan for the engine build, these include:

Full OEM gasket and seal set including OEM head gasket
OEM oil pump
OEM chain tensioner
OEM timing change
OEM chain slippers
OEM crank sprocket
OEM cam sprocket (reusing the VVTI gear)

[Nvy]

Hey,
Any progress?

[shnazzle]

Good point. Where you at Mitch?

[m1tch]

Sorry guys, the car has been tucked up but I have been working on a few bits of it getting it together, gradually building up the engine, no huge rush at the moment though.

I have a set of JUBU gears now to go into the box when I get it rebuilt.

I am mainly working on the engine tune at the moment, currently configuring for launch control and also knock control if possible on the narrowband knock sensor (will be upgrading this on the new engine).

Plan will be to run the Link ECU at Santapod in a couple of months to see if the Link ECU gets any additional power to improve my drag time (with the same weight reduction).

I am also looking at wheel and tyre options, will look like I need to run 17s to get the wider rears, looking to run 225/45/17s on the rear which should hold the power moving forward and unlocks a huge number of tyre options as well. The tyres are 5.5% larger than stock so will need to adjust the speedo/get a GPS speedo to check actual speed - I can adjust this within the Link ECU however the stock speedo is actually being run off the stock ECU rather than the Link.

I have a set of Meister R coilovers to fit along with Whiteline ARB front and rears to fit also, will look to do this all in one go to refresh the suspension.

I have a feeling that a high 14 second pass is the best the car will manage to do running the stock engine (on 178k miles), there are a few additional items I might be able to remove or pair down such as the driver seat and battery which might improve drag times by a few tenths. I don't think I have run with the much lighter exhaust either so will be interesting to see what I can get out of it this year - plan for this year is to run the stock engine NA and continue to build the forged engine. It's taking a bit longer to pull things together due to parts availability and free time from my end.

I will keep the thread updated and will get some photos up soon - also looking at rear spoiler options as well and will look to do a tuft test to check the airflow on the rear lid of the car to see where the air actually goes!

[m1tch]

Mini update, will be looking to run at Santa Pod at the start of June, have just removed the doorcards to trim slightly more weight out of it and have spent a bit of the Easter weekend logging and tweaking the ECU map, fueling is now within 0.1 AFR of target without turning on the wideband autotune. The Link ECU has a setting where I can use the wideband O2 sensor and automatically adjust the fueling to the target AFR when driving - only temporary but the fueling values are very close to spot on so its not really working too hard.

Will look to see if I can work out how to run the launch control, would usually use a clutch switch or toggle switch to activate, think I can also active it using a % throttle and arm when the speed is at 0.

Anyway, this coming run will probably be the final run with the stock engine at 178k miles, after I (hopefully) improve on the 14.96 time I am going to be changing a few things back to road trim such as adding in audio and a few bits of carpet etc that had been removed. Plan will be to get the forged engine build up and swap in maybe next year, I have coilovers and Whiteline ARBs to fit first and might also look to swap out the wheels and tyres as well.

The engine is coming together very slowly, I am taking my time with it (when I do get free time), and performance parts for the 1zz at this power level aren't the easiest to come by, will be ordering the Supertech master valvetrain kit soon, still need to finish the short block but need to check oil clearances on the rod bearings first, pretty sure they will be fine but need to check everything over.

Main big parts still to buy for the engine assembly are - note that this is to just get the engine together rather than turbo:

Supertech valvetrain (valves, dual springs and titanium retainers, setup is rated to 8,500 rpm)
Moroso sump (baffled and will allow easy fitment of the turbo drain etc)
Clutch - looking at a few ACT options, luckily the 2zz engines have the same clutch but currently looking for something that can hold the torque but still be drivable
Intake manifold - need to see if I can remove the internal plastic divider from the stock manifold myself, otherwise I will need to order one from the States or go fully custom
Gearbox needs to be sent off for a rebuild, I have the gearbox and the JUBU gears, just need Rogue motorsports to rebuild it

I have all new gaskets, seals, sealants, oil pump, chain etc so those are ready to go, think the main big step is getting the oil clearances checked on the rods and get the rods and pistons in, from there its just a case of installing valves and springs, checking the clearance on the buckets for the custom Piper cams and bolt the whole thing together. Its taking longer than expected due to a few higher priced parts but for me if I am going to build the engine I am going to build it properly and only build it once, its coming together though.

Additional parts such as the fueling can wait as I can change over injectors and exhaust parts when the engine is in whereas I can't change any internal parts or the intake manifold.

[shnazzle]

Small update with big things.
Looking forward to seeing the results on the strip

[Call the midlife!]

Mini update, will be looking to run at Santa Pod at the start of June, have just removed the doorcards to trim slightly more weight out of it and have spent a bit of the Easter weekend logging and tweaking the ECU map, fueling is now within 0.1 AFR of target without turning on the wideband autotune. The Link ECU has a setting where I can use the wideband O2 sensor and automatically adjust the fueling to the target AFR when driving - only temporary but the fueling values are very close to spot on so its not really working too hard.

Will look to see if I can work out how to run the launch control, would usually use a clutch switch or toggle switch to activate, think I can also active it using a % throttle and arm when the speed is at 0.

Anyway, this coming run will probably be the final run with the stock engine at 178k miles, after I (hopefully) improve on the 14.96 time I am going to be changing a few things back to road trim such as adding in audio and a few bits of carpet etc that had been removed. Plan will be to get the forged engine build up and swap in maybe next year, I have coilovers and Whiteline ARBs to fit first and might also look to swap out the wheels and tyres as well.

The engine is coming together very slowly, I am taking my time with it (when I do get free time), and performance parts for the 1zz at this power level aren't the easiest to come by, will be ordering the Supertech master valvetrain kit soon, still need to finish the short block but need to check oil clearances on the rod bearings first, pretty sure they will be fine but need to check everything over.

Main big parts still to buy for the engine assembly are - note that this is to just get the engine together rather than turbo:

Supertech valvetrain (valves, dual springs and titanium retainers, setup is rated to 8,500 rpm)
Moroso sump (baffled and will allow easy fitment of the turbo drain etc)
Clutch - looking at a few ACT options, luckily the 2zz engines have the same clutch but currently looking for something that can hold the torque but still be drivable
Intake manifold - need to see if I can remove the internal plastic divider from the stock manifold myself, otherwise I will need to order one from the States or go fully custom
Gearbox needs to be sent off for a rebuild, I have the gearbox and the JUBU gears, just need Rogue motorsports to rebuild it

I have all new gaskets, seals, sealants, oil pump, chain etc so those are ready to go, think the main big step is getting the oil clearances checked on the rods and get the rods and pistons in, from there its just a case of installing valves and springs, checking the clearance on the buckets for the custom Piper cams and bolt the whole thing together. Its taking longer than expected due to a few higher priced parts but for me if I am going to build the engine I am going to build it properly and only build it once, its coming together though.

Additional parts such as the fueling can wait as I can change over injectors and exhaust parts when the engine is in whereas I can't change any internal parts or the intake manifold.

What RPM are your pistons and rods rated to? And what are the intake/exhaust valve clearances on the Piper cams as the Crowers I've put in are a lot different to standard clearances?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex Knight]

Regarding clutch options, I have used (with great effect, and mega reliability) ClutchMasters clutches in my old ST205 Celica GT-Four, which was a low 12 second car.
I believe that I had an FX300 holding about 350LBs/Ft torque. I did easily over 200 7,000RPM full bore launches, and I had zero problems with the clutch.

Perhaps you could look at an FX400/FX500 clutch?

http://www.clutchmasters.com/clutch-kits/

2ZZ FX500 here: http://www.clutchmasters.com/fx500-16080-hdb6/

Also, with intake manifold, I was wondering if 2ZZ metal (and port matched) would fit the 1ZZ?