Hamish vs Zero

[shnazzle]

Discuss

[mikek]

Zorro wears a hat and a mask Hamish wears a kilt?

[mikek]

Zorro has 1 horse power Hamish has 138?

[shnazzle]

I'm serious! I'm putting together my shopping list. No time for jokes you peasants!

I have to donate all my organs for the Zero and the Hamish looks well-made.

Is it worth it?

[jvanzyl]

Surely the discussion should be zero Vs PPE Vs obx?

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[shnazzle]

Surely the discussion should be zero Vs PPE Vs obx?

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No because ppe is too fussy and I'm not Bill Gates and OBX doesn't look any better than that Hamish

[jvanzyl]

Group buy on zero then???

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[stewart@boro]

I'm serious! I'm putting together my shopping list. No time for jokes you peasants!

I have to donate all my organs for the Zero and the Hamish looks well-made.

Is it worth it?

The zero must be cheap then :-)

[stewart@boro]

Are we going to have a "Dutch" auction then, better start thinking up some reserve prices then Patrick us old peasants could do with some younger spare parts

[K T M Rider]

Group buy on zero then???

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I'm in (at the right price  )

[shnazzle]

Sooo... Hamish vs zero?
We all know zero is better, but why and how?

[Call the midlife!]

I've got a Hamish, fitted it last August if my photo album is anything to go by. Quite a few fitting issues with it but it went on eventually and does the job well enough. Only done about 4 thousand miles with it so that's about all I can offer.


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[Call the midlife!]

Oh and as an addendum, everytime I see a Toyosport come up for sale for £100 I nearly buy it, just in case.


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[shnazzle]

That's very odd as the Hamish I've heard are generally better regarded than the Toyo
But then lots of people run the Toyo...

But then... The Zero is known to be one of the best of the best.

What I need to know is if the Zero is worth the additional 280 quid. I can get 3 Hamish's for the price of one Zero

[Call the midlife!]

Yeah, unfortunately it's something you're going to struggle to get any kind of like for like comparisons with. Unless you can persuade someone with stage 1 cams and a zero to test run a Hamish for you...


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[shnazzle]

I guess the science will have to do for now.

The Zero is equal length. Internals are smooth as butter.

If we're talking squeezing out 2 extra hp, you can keep it.
If we're talking a smoother and flatter torque with a higher peak than stock (assuming the other odds) then it may very well be worth it

[Call the midlife!]

Well there's someone not to far from me has been building some nice, custom jobs of late, if you ordered one now you might just get it by the time you're ready for it.


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[shnazzle]

Well there's someone not to far from me has been building some nice, custom jobs of late, if you ordered one now you might just get it by the time you're ready for it.


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Tell me more

[Call the midlife!]

Well there's someone not to far from me has been building some nice, custom jobs of late, if you ordered one now you might just get it by the time you're ready for it.


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Tell me more

Steve Norris, I know he's done a few bespoke manifolds on recent builds, wether he could replicate a Zero style one is another question though.
But you can always ask, only not at the moment as he's not here, much like the parts I wanted for Silverstone next weekend...


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[Ardent]

For me.
Any excuse to wear a skirt i meant kilt
Zorst wise. No idea.

[Bernie]

Looking through Robs Dyno's after the Zero manifold fitted went from 148.7 BHP to 157.4 BHP
Then after Crower Cams to 167.6 BHP
Then PPE induction to 171 BHP

Note it was mapped at each change

[Call the midlife!]

Looking through Robs Dyno's after the Zero manifold fitted went from 148.7 BHP to 157.4 BHP
Then after Crower Cams to 167.6 BHP
Then PPE induction to 171 BHP

Note it was mapped at each change

What was giving you the starting 148 Bernie on the standard set up? Just the piggy back?


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[shnazzle]

That's really helpful Bernie thanks. Not just for the manifold but also the stg1 and standalone

[K T M Rider]

Well, it looks waaay too early to judge a three way Norris / Zero / Hamish manifold shoot out, so returning to the more known quantities.

Having already gutted my stock manifold, I can't see any compelling reason to remove the stock manifold again and fit a Hamish / Che / Toyosports.

I just don't see anything to get excited about.

A Zero, I can get excited about (but maybe I'm deluded  . )

In the words of the wise wabbit :

quote author=Wabbitkilla link=topic=48555.msg561525#msg561525 date=1392895379]
I would need to use Google translate to speak French so I'll do my best with understandable English.

I have had both manifolds on my car as you can see from the performance thread.

The Che manifold is good for removing the pre-catalysts and not keeping the chambers where the pre-cats were. It is broadly based on the TRD manifold but a lot less expensive. It claims to be stainless steel, which the pipework is but the flanges are mild steel. The pipework is a similar diameter as the original manifold, it fits in exactly the same space with all the same connecting points. There are also some of them where the O2 sensor bungs are very poor quality resulting in poorly fitting sensors, it is not unknown for a sensor to get blown out. There are some problems with them, sometimes they need to be stressed to get into position, and they can fracture if the bottom brackets and not used to brace the manifold on the engine block. Power is not improved without a piggy back ecu or standalone but there is marginally more torque and a better sound.

The Zero manifold is very different, It is not a copy of anything else. The tubes are of a larger diameter and stronger stainless steel, their routing is much smoother than the Che manifold and original. Connections are welded at a much narrower angle and the internals are ground smoothly removing weld edges and troughs. The manifold fits in exactly the same space as the original and is a 4-2 with the same connecting flanges. There are brackets for the bracing at the bottom of the engine block, they are not very robust and can break off with vibration and stress, however the manifold is so strong that it hasn't caused a problem so far. The manifold does improve both torque and power output positively even without an ecu modification, though obviously to make the most of it tuning is your best option.

Overall I recommend the Zero manifold as it is much better quality and gives performance improvements you should be able to feel. It depends how much you feel about the car and performance, sometimes it is worth paying more for better.

For a true 4-1 manifold and exhaust you would need to look at the PPE products and their OBX copies, but they have a tendency to make the engine much more peaky, i.e. Outright power increase, but torque sacrificed meaning you driving in lower gears revving the engine more.
[/quote]

[Bernie]

Looking through Robs Dyno's after the Zero manifold fitted went from 148.7 BHP to 157.4 BHP
Then after Crower Cams to 167.6 BHP
Then PPE induction to 171 BHP

Note it was mapped at each change

What was giving you the starting 148 Bernie on the standard set up? Just the piggy back?


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Blueflame custom exhaust, sportscat and Apexi Power FC  ECU