2ZZ Compressor fitting help

[JB21]

I've managed to source a Corolla 2ZZ compressor kit inc injectors, but I'm not sure what else will be required to make this fit to my Roadster. I'm currently using a 2ZZ Corolla ECU (89666-02091) which I'm led to believe runs the N/A and Compressor 2ZZ engine cars so that should fine.

Is there anything else that I will need like additional wiring, sensors etc or is it all just bolt on hardware?

Thanks in advance.

[1979scotte]

I've managed to source a Corolla 2ZZ compressor kit inc injectors, but I'm not sure what else will be required to make this fit to my Roadster. I'm currently using a 2ZZ Corolla ECU (89666-02091) which I'm led to believe runs the N/A and Compressor 2ZZ engine cars so that should fine.

Is there anything else that I will need like additional wiring, sensors etc or is it all just bolt on hardware?

Thanks in advance.

I find it hard to believe a stock 2zz ecu will run a compressor at least properly.
A standard 1ZZ ecu won't run a TTE turbo.
Can I ask what evidence there is to support this conclusion?

[JB21]

I've managed to source a Corolla 2ZZ compressor kit inc injectors, but I'm not sure what else will be required to make this fit to my Roadster. I'm currently using a 2ZZ Corolla ECU (89666-02091) which I'm led to believe runs the N/A and Compressor 2ZZ engine cars so that should fine.

Is there anything else that I will need like additional wiring, sensors etc or is it all just bolt on hardware?

Thanks in advance.

I find it hard to believe a stock 2zz ecu will run a compressor at least properly.
A standard 1ZZ ecu won't run a TTE turbo.
Can I ask what evidence there is to support this conclusion?

What ECU do you think runs a Corolla compressor from factory, standalone? Info on the ECU was taken from Corolla Club.

[JB21]

@rusty0273 would you be able to confirm the ECU part number your compressor is running?

Below taken from your thread: https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=70018.msg834311#msg834311

Uses two ECUs - one from the original 1ZZ and one from a 2ZZ but I don't the details of which does what. Will take a few pics later and post up this evening or tomorrow. If you have a specific queries on it I'll try to answer.

[1979scotte]

I've managed to source a Corolla 2ZZ compressor kit inc injectors, but I'm not sure what else will be required to make this fit to my Roadster. I'm currently using a 2ZZ Corolla ECU (89666-02091) which I'm led to believe runs the N/A and Compressor 2ZZ engine cars so that should fine.

Is there anything else that I will need like additional wiring, sensors etc or is it all just bolt on hardware?

Thanks in advance.

I find it hard to believe a stock 2zz ecu will run a compressor at least properly.
A standard 1ZZ ecu won't run a TTE turbo.
Can I ask what evidence there is to support this conclusion?

What ECU do you think runs a Corolla compressor from factory, standalone? Info on the ECU was taken from Corolla Club.

How does the ecu know the injectors are bigger?
Or are they just stock 2zz pushed to the max?
I'm not trying to be confrontational but I've read all sorts of advice online and some of it is complete pooh.
I don't want to see you damage your engine.
That compressor runs hot.

[1979scotte]

From a quick Google the ecu part numbers are the same.
However the injectors are different 330 vs 440.
Confused dot com

[JB21]

I've managed to source a Corolla 2ZZ compressor kit inc injectors, but I'm not sure what else will be required to make this fit to my Roadster. I'm currently using a 2ZZ Corolla ECU (89666-02091) which I'm led to believe runs the N/A and Compressor 2ZZ engine cars so that should fine.

Is there anything else that I will need like additional wiring, sensors etc or is it all just bolt on hardware?

Thanks in advance.

I find it hard to believe a stock 2zz ecu will run a compressor at least properly.
A standard 1ZZ ecu won't run a TTE turbo.
Can I ask what evidence there is to support this conclusion?

What ECU do you think runs a Corolla compressor from factory, standalone? Info on the ECU was taken from Corolla Club.

How does the ecu know the injectors are bigger?
Or are they just stock 2zz pushed to the max?
I'm not trying to be confrontational but I've read all sorts of advice online and some of it is complete pooh.
I don't want to see you damage your engine.
That compressor runs hot.

Honestly not sure mate, I was surprised too, as I think the ECU would also have to engage the clutch or is this a mechanical thing? There's a few posts on Corolla Club confirming the part number. The guy who's selling me the kit also has the OE compressor ECU but I just cant make out the part number in the picture, see below... I've just messaged him for the actual part number.

[JB21]

[Gaz mr-s]

As Scott says, they run hot, & it's not getting the moving air as in a Corolla. If this is for your track car, I wouldn't. 
The clutch is triggered by a relay, & the coil is the weakpoint. It breaks down with heat & age. The coil, pulley & bearing is cheapest from a boats supplier. The same Ogaru (sp?) is used on lots of big Volvo marine engines, & it fails in the same way. Approx' £300.  It can be replaced on the car, it was done on Deviant-Mrs's by a clever mechanic.

The compressor uses a small quantity of a mega-expensive oil which needs a hatch cut into the engine bulkhead to access.  But it does have a very long service interval. The bulkhead needs bashed-in for clearance too.  That aspect can also be assisted by modifying the right-side 2zz engine mount.

[1979scotte]

Is that a DET3 piggyback in that picture?

[JB21]

As Scott says, they run hot, & it's not getting the moving air as in a Corolla. If this is for your track car, I wouldn't. 
The clutch is triggered by a relay, & the coil is the weakpoint. It breaks down with heat & age. The coil, pulley & bearing is cheapest from a boats supplier. The same Ogaru (sp?) is used on lots of big Volvo marine engines, & it fails in the same way. Approx' £300.  It can be replaced on the car, it was done on Deviant-Mrs's by a clever mechanic.

The compressor uses a small quantity of a mega-expensive oil which needs a hatch cut into the engine bulkhead to access.  But it does have a very long service interval. The bulkhead needs bashed-in for clearance too.  That aspect can also be assisted by modifying the right-side 2zz engine mount.

Thanks for the info. I was worried how hot it would run being situated at the rear of the engine bay, it will receive zero fresh air and heat up very quickly on track. I could cut a hole in the bulkhead and add in a fan to assist cooling, or maybe a custom intercooler set-up but I'm just not sure it would be worth all the hassle for 26hp.

The guy who's selling the spare bits has added a compressor kit it to his track car, so I'll see how he gets on before commiting.

[Gaz mr-s]

As Scott says, they run hot, & it's not getting the moving air as in a Corolla. If this is for your track car, I wouldn't. 
The clutch is triggered by a relay, & the coil is the weakpoint. It breaks down with heat & age. The coil, pulley & bearing is cheapest from a boats supplier. The same Ogaru (sp?) is used on lots of big Volvo marine engines, & it fails in the same way. Approx' £300.  It can be replaced on the car, it was done on Deviant-Mrs's by a clever mechanic.

The compressor uses a small quantity of a mega-expensive oil which needs a hatch cut into the engine bulkhead to access.  But it does have a very long service interval. The bulkhead needs bashed-in for clearance too.  That aspect can also be assisted by modifying the right-side 2zz engine mount.

Thanks for the info. I was worried how hot it would run being situated at the rear of the engine bay, it will receive zero fresh air and heat up very quickly on track. I could cut a hole in the bulkhead and add in a fan to assist cooling, or maybe a custom intercooler set-up but I'm just not sure it would be worth all the hassle for 26hp.

The guy who's selling the spare bits has added a compressor kit it to his track car, so I'll see how he gets on before commiting.

Also, if you don't know this already, the power surge in lift is minor compared to a n/a 2zz.  The Comp engine is more about torque than bhp.  It suits the 2's wide ratio's.  The folk with most knowledge will be Rogue, a call or message of f/book perhaps?

[JB21]

More reading and it seems for this kit to run effectively and not overheat a water/meth kit is required, especially fitted in a track only roadster.

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/167155-corolla-compressor-owners/?do=findComment&comment=1384100

[thetyrant]

As others have said dont bother for a track car, the toyota compressor setup was designed to boost midrange pre-lift and does very little for top end apart from overheat the intake charge!, of course there are ways around this but not worth the effort imo.

You would be better off spending money on fitting a standalone ecu to unlock its full potential after making sure all the breathing (exh and intake) are as good as they can be, or saving up for a K20

[JB21]

As others have said dont bother for a track car, the toyota compressor setup was designed to boost midrange pre-lift and does very little for top end apart from overheat the intake charge!, of course there are ways around this but not worth the effort imo.

You would be better off spending money on fitting a standalone ecu to unlock its full potential after making sure all the breathing (exh and intake) are as good as they can be, or saving up for a K20

How do I figure this out though? Currently running a BCM CDA intake and Rouge manifold/sports cat and your silencer.

K20 would be great but just to expensive ATM.

[thetyrant]

How do I figure this out though? Currently running a BCM CDA intake and Rouge manifold/sports cat and your silencer.

K20 would be great but just to expensive ATM.

Is the Rogue manifold the Celica 2zz one cut and tweaked slightly retaining the single port flange ?  i think these are best for these cars so if so your good there, the swap manifolds that go into dual port flange like stock 1zz are not good for power from what ive seen, silencer wise plenty of flow for 250hp there    sports cat could be holding you back depending on quality and age, maybe get a decat to make sure flow is maximum.

Intake wise it can be more tricky with stock ecu but if going aftermarket then good cold air feed with sensible size pipework and should be good, not sure what your BCM intake is.

Your never going to get big gains without forced induction, also what about doing the ECU and getting current setup at its best and then saving for a Rotrex setup ? if you already have the ecu that is a big part of cost one you go to next step but still not cheap,  it will probably work out cheaper than a K20 (done properly at least) only possible issue is Toyota gearbox strength but with Rotrex making linear power and no big torque spike like a turbo it should be easier on transmission.

Also maybe a dyno run as it is now see what its running?, it maybe you are already making decent power for a 2zz as it seems to vary a lot on these swaps, if your say 180 ish then your doing well but if not the ECU with good mapping could unlock a few more ponies, speak to Pistol Pete see how he is going with his setup now its on Ecumaster.

[JB21]

Ecu mystery solved. Same 2ZZ part number but note the blue sticker...

Supposedly the compressor lifts at 5k rpm to make the most of the boost.

[1979scotte]

Avoid for a track capital just not up to it.
Save for a standalone ecu and then add a rotrex.
@KRAMSNEHPETS has done both compressor and rotrex btw.

[thetyrant]

Yep as above best plan i think

Ecu wise you have 2 main choices i think at moment Ecumasters same as Pete has done, or there maybe a new kid on the block which will be cheaper if you dont mind importing, its basically a Plug and play unit using a LInk G4 standalone at its core, im in discussion with them at moment to see what shipping costs will be and this is the unit - https://panicmade.com/wiring/p/zzw30-link-g4x-pnp-kit-1

Costs wise currently around £1000 +shipping and taxes at current exchange rate, so add say approx 25% for vat and tax thats £1250+shipping, hopefully shipping wont be more than £100 so makes a cheap quality standalone setup which is plug in and map, there are extras like wideband and things if you wanted your own but could be mapped using the tuners own setup so not 100% necessary but i would recommend one usually and they are not that expensive.

How is your current Ecu setup ? i seem to remember your on dual 1zz and 2zz is that right ?

[JB21]

Yep as above best plan i think

Ecu wise you have 2 main choices i think at moment Ecumasters same as Pete has done, or there maybe a new kid on the block which will be cheaper if you dont mind importing, its basically a Plug and play unit using a LInk G4 standalone at its core, im in discussion with them at moment to see what shipping costs will be and this is the unit - https://panicmade.com/wiring/p/zzw30-link-g4x-pnp-kit-1

Costs wise currently around £1000 +shipping and taxes at current exchange rate, so add say approx 25% for vat and tax thats £1250+shipping, hopefully shipping wont be more than £100 so makes a cheap quality standalone setup which is plug in and map, there are extras like wideband and things if you wanted your own but could be mapped using the tuners own setup so not 100% necessary but i would recommend one usually and they are not that expensive.

How is your current Ecu setup ? i seem to remember your on dual 1zz and 2zz is that right ?

Cheers Iain, yeah current set up is duel mr2 1zz/corolla 2zz. There's this below on ebay currently that is plug and play for my setup, just need a mapping session at EFI. Bet he'd take a grand as its been on for months.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143499840688

A cheaper option for a bit more lift is the JDM Corolla ECU that lifts at 6000rpm and redline at 8250rpm. These are £100 delivered.

Then there's the JDM Celica ECU that lifts at 6000rpm and limits at 8400rpm, these are around £250 delivered, but I'd have to re-pin my current setup so it all ran from this single ECU.

[thetyrant]

Yeah that AEM EMS4 isnt a bad ecu ive looked at them myself, will he ship to the UK though as lots of Europeans cant be bothered with the hassle now and vice versa :9

Changing to another Toyota ecu is never going to make much of a difference imo

[mikek]

How do I figure this out though? Currently running a BCM CDA intake and Rouge manifold/sports cat and your silencer.

K20 would be great but just to expensive ATM.

Is the Rogue manifold the Celica 2zz one cut and tweaked slightly retaining the single port flange ?  i think these are best for these cars so if so your good there, the swap manifolds that go into dual port flange like stock 1zz are not good for power from what ive seen, silencer wise plenty of flow for 250hp there    sports cat could be holding you back depending on quality and age, maybe get a decat to make sure flow is maximum.

Intake wise it can be more tricky with stock ecu but if going aftermarket then good cold air feed with sensible size pipework and should be good, not sure what your BCM intake is.

Your never going to get big gains without forced induction, also what about doing the ECU and getting current setup at its best and then saving for a Rotrex setup ? if you already have the ecu that is a big part of cost one you go to next step but still not cheap,  it will probably work out cheaper than a K20 (done properly at least) only possible issue is Toyota gearbox strength but with Rotrex making linear power and no big torque spike like a turbo it should be easier on transmission.

Also maybe a dyno run as it is now see what its running?, it maybe you are already making decent power for a 2zz as it seems to vary a lot on these swaps, if your say 180 ish then your doing well but if not the ECU with good mapping could unlock a few more ponies, speak to Pistol Pete see how he is going with his setup now its on Ecumaster.

Mine with stage 2 cams was being held back by air intake, which is the same as yours, this will be the limiting factor with your current set up. When we removed the intake at RRR it made over another 10 WHP.

[JB21]

How do I figure this out though? Currently running a BCM CDA intake and Rouge manifold/sports cat and your silencer.

K20 would be great but just to expensive ATM.

Is the Rogue manifold the Celica 2zz one cut and tweaked slightly retaining the single port flange ?  i think these are best for these cars so if so your good there, the swap manifolds that go into dual port flange like stock 1zz are not good for power from what ive seen, silencer wise plenty of flow for 250hp there    sports cat could be holding you back depending on quality and age, maybe get a decat to make sure flow is maximum.

Intake wise it can be more tricky with stock ecu but if going aftermarket then good cold air feed with sensible size pipework and should be good, not sure what your BCM intake is.

Your never going to get big gains without forced induction, also what about doing the ECU and getting current setup at its best and then saving for a Rotrex setup ? if you already have the ecu that is a big part of cost one you go to next step but still not cheap,  it will probably work out cheaper than a K20 (done properly at least) only possible issue is Toyota gearbox strength but with Rotrex making linear power and no big torque spike like a turbo it should be easier on transmission.

Also maybe a dyno run as it is now see what its running?, it maybe you are already making decent power for a 2zz as it seems to vary a lot on these swaps, if your say 180 ish then your doing well but if not the ECU with good mapping could unlock a few more ponies, speak to Pistol Pete see how he is going with his setup now its on Ecumaster.

Mine with stage 2 cams was being held back by air intake, which is the same as yours, this will be the limiting factor with your current set up. When we removed the intake at RRR it made over another 10 WHP.

You still running the BCM CDA intake or have you found a more free flowing option?

[thetyrant]

Mine with stage 2 cams was being held back by air intake, which is the same as yours, this will be the limiting factor with your current set up. When we removed the intake at RRR it made over another 10 WHP.

There you go Jb first thing to address

[1979scotte]

Guys hunting more power doesn't neccessarily make the car more fun it really doesn't.

I had a stock roadster for around 6 months then I went sp240 turbo.
Then sold up and went V6 then rotrex supercharged that.

So power from 138-280+

However much fun the modified cars were you loose out on reliability and when you get into the relms of double stock power they begin to become unusable on the road. Unless you're a nutter.
On track I suppose the extra power becomes usable but I would think the reliability would fall through the floor.