Quote from: __CA__ on Today at 15:05Just joined (first post!) to say thanks for posting this, I have just ordered from autodoc.  I love this kind of parts bin upgrade!

I bought a 1MZ-FE swapped MR2 (by Woodsport) earlier in the year, the front brakes are a slightly sticky and it pulls to the left, so this seems like a better option than refurbing the old ones.

Check (all) your suspension bolts. I had pulling to the left twice and both times it was down to suspension bolts needing torquing up.

So sorry to hear of the problem with your car.

You obviously been exposed to the popular pre-cat story (which is often wide of the mark!)

Rather than assume the pre-cats are at fault (a much overrated problem), may I suggest removing the O2 sensors (as others have suggested) from the manifold and inspecting the pre-cat matrix.  If it has eroded it will be clear to see.  If your top end was eating pre-cat matrix I'd expect the engine to blowing smoke and going though oil at a decent clip. So that's your first investigation.

Forget about taking the head off with the engine in the car.   I did it once- never again!!

If the matrix looks intact:

What you have does sound like rod end knocking, probably on #1 cylinder, as that's the first one to go when the oil pick-up sucks air.  The previous owner could have got very enthusiastic round a long right-hand bend while the oil level was low. A spun rod bearing or two is the result. That will result in white metal from the bearing shells in your sump oil., which could be what you are seeing.

Before doing an engine swap (a used engine will always be a bit of a gamble) which will cost at least £1200 all in, (with new clutch and other bits that are better changed when the engine is out)  you might want to drop the sump (tedious as they are pretty much glued on but I've done it a few times) and inspect the rod bearings.  If it's one or two spun bearings, there's an even chance you can clean the white metal off the crank with fine wet & dry, and put new shells in.

Personally I would always do a mild rebuild on any engine I was putting in, 'cos collecting on a two month warranty on just the engine without being covered for the work, ain't a great proposition.

Most 2005/2006 engines still have inadequate oil control holes in the pistons.  Only the very last few 2006 cars had properly modified pistons, so even a 2006 engine can be an oil burner if it hasn't has regular oil changes throughout its life.

If you get an engine from J-Spec it will probably be a good one, but you can't eliminate all risk.

I doubt you'd get more than £600 for a car with a bead engine, I'm afraid.

Quote from: Daytona on Today at 16:59Yes was thinking of taking a look, but I already know from what I have felt and seen in the oil that was dropped that the cat has disintegrated/is breaking down.....so I am taking it that the knock/tap is as a result of this and possible damage to bores, bearings etc. Mechanic said what's the point of removing head to have a look etc more money when the cats are on balance of probability goosed....pieces in oil, lamda issues and now a tap/knock at 2000rpm. So I guess I am starting from the premis my car has precat failure.....and cost effective recification, with best chance of no more such issues.

Hello and welcome and sorry to see something  that has not been written on here for some time.
Your description of the particles is what I remember from when I de catted my car more than ten years ago.
To check that is the problem it is not necessary to remove the cylinder head but only to remove the O2 sensors, poking through the exhaust manifold.
The precats will appear as a regular honeycomb, or not!

What to do if that is the case will likely now follow with suggestions from other Members.

Your #4 suggestion would be at minimum cost and on the  basis that  it's broken anyway you would then either fall in or out of love with the cars other attributes.
My car has run fine for 10+ years ( not many miles) with a decatted  OE manifold ,

Quote from: Gaz mr-s on Today at 16:52I haven't personally done it, but the pre-cats can be inspected via the O2 sensor holes.

Yes was thinking of taking a look, but I already know from what I have felt and seen in the oil that was dropped that the cat has disintegrated/is breaking down.....so I am taking it that the knock/tap is as a result of this and possible damage to bores, bearings etc. Mechanic said what's the point of removing head to have a look etc more money when the cats are on balance of probability goosed....pieces in oil, lamda issues and now a tap/knock at 2000rpm. So I guess I am starting from the premis my car has precat failure.....and cost effective recification, with best chance of no more such issues.

I haven't personally done it, but the pre-cats can be inspected via the O2 sensor holes.

Would love to have had my first post in New Member's but for the first time in 30+ years of bikes and cars I have purchased a car with what appears a terminal issue.

2000 plate MR2 MK3 circa 60K on the clock, no corrosion, drives well. Purchased privately.

Drove home, tapping noise at constant revs on motorway circa 2000-3000rpm thought heatshield or pulley etc. Above or below the tapping goes away. Driven car 30miles since getting her home, if revs held constant on hill etc at circa 2000rpm a knocking/tapping.

Had car a matter of days now, had a full service, plugs, filters, fully synth oil thinking the issue would be picked up.....it was. Oil in car for 1K, from service docs; clean except for the 'grit' pieces of what I now presume are the precat in the oil! Seem grey and white-ish in colour.

SO...presume pre-cats have disintegrated or are doing so and being injested by the engine, no smoke from car, minimal/no apparent oil usage; car has decent performance and pick-up idle etc...just the diesel-ish knock when revved at idle at 2-3000rpm from the drivers side of the engine in the upper block area. Did notice Lamda was replaced 400miles ago after fault warning.

Options

Cry and regret buying such a car, criminal that this problem was not sorted by Toyota for all Owner's.

1) Sell car as Spares and Repair has MOT until mid next year for £1400? (not sure of amount to ask) few minor dinks but has a new mohair soft top, decent alloys etc it's a good example aesthetically.

2) Get a 2005/6 engine for circa £600 and get it fitted (cost to fit?); 2 month warranty?

3) Get an earlier engine for circa £300 and get it fitted? 2 month warranty

4) Laugh, get the precats removed/new manifold. new oil and filter and just drive it until the thing expires. 1000miles a year max usage would have been the idea.

What should I do, for minimal ££ outlay for a reliable car? or just cut losses and out it? or a different opinion or option on repair etc.

Just joined (first post!) to say thanks for posting this, I have just ordered from autodoc.  I love this kind of parts bin upgrade!

I bought a 1MZ-FE swapped MR2 (by Woodsport) earlier in the year, the front brakes are a slightly sticky and it pulls to the left, so this seems like a better option than refurbing the old ones.

Thanks @barchetta_ms that looks like the one I've ordered!

@Topdownman that's another option but the sound on the original Sony unit is actually pretty good - I'm quite keen to keep the car as stock as possible so I'm making do without DAB for now and there's enough power in the stock headunit and speakers for my needs. My phone seems to be held quite nicely by the dashboard top compartment door when it's resting on top of it, so that's navigation sorted, and it's powered by a USB charger plugged into the cigarette lighter.

Quote from: Joesson on Yesterday at 20:20I notice you've added another 20HP as well!

btw, seriously, she is véry quick now. As @Ardent pointed out adding lightness has increasing returns. As I also lightened the rotating mass of the engine, the effect on performance is surprising. Especially in second and third the direct response of the freed up natural aspiration is ... well... surprising. Quick is the word. Quick steering, quick responding.

The windshield mod has some strange. perhaps subjective perception, effects. Much like the hard top. That changes the whole feel of the car.
The totally different ´soft´ flexible nature of the Lexan changes the soúnd, the frequency of all sound waves bouncing back from it.
And the lightness this high up has an odd effect too. ALthough is obviously reduces MR² it fééls more stable on the undulating, constantly changing angles of the secondary twisties.

Quote from: Ardent on Today at 07:40Found the cheap ones.
Thin and nasty. The San remo has substance.

I concur and the Nardi is a bit pricey.