I'd consider some protection for those water lines, I think I used plastic, convoluted cable sleeving on mine, you can fit it in situ and it'll give it some protection from the road and from rubbing against where it touches chassis components etc.

Hi all,
Thanks for the comments. I have the 2500 rev thing a go for a good 20 mins off and on- possibly some success but in the end I decided to drain it all and start again.

If time avails I'll try and refill it again tonight.

the mitella mod. is sure to improve recovery

Decided to re do part of the system - New filter ordered and some more fuel line.

Gone with a proper Sytec filter with 10mm push fit ends - I find the AN fittings great in part but I have steel braided hose from 2 different places and unfortunately the long pipes are not brilliant.
I'll try and get some pics up but the composition of the steel braid on 1 type of hose is great, really stable and clean when you cut it. The fittings go on really well and it they clamp up great.
The other is the opposite plus the braid moves up and down the rubber hose when you work it and it frays a lot easier. I'm going back to jubilee style clamps as I know they seal properly.

I'll revisit at some point and probably replace the long pipes but this will do the job.

We'll retest this weekend and hopefully get a better result!

  you are supposed  to be enjoying this build with a lot of frustration at times  
but not killing you    

I found that holding the car at 2500rpm for a few seconds and repeating helped a ton with flushing coolant into all the right places.

It's my go to method now and I've dropped the coolant a she's load on my build.

Maybe give it a try, coolant temp should go up and then drop as soon as you let it idle, just rinse and repeat.

I've had also had the car fall on me before, when a jack failed, luckily just one wheel off adjusting suspension.

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 17, 2024, 13:40Got it thanks!
I found that there was still a MAF clamping map active, which maaay have had something to do with it.. don't know yet.

I'm going to start tidying things up, removing oil gauges for now and ensuring the underside is clear of things that can catch on the ground, getting bumpers on etc.. feeling a bit happier about stuff to be honest.

MAF clamping will only stop it reading beyond what it is capable of. You haven't hit boost yet so... unlikely to be the issue unless it's clamped at like atmospheric hehe

But you told me the MAF was stock! If it's not then that's 100% going to mess with fueling.

Got it thanks!
I found that there was still a MAF clamping map active, which maaay have had something to do with it.. don't know yet.

I'm going to start tidying things up, removing oil gauges for now and ensuring the underside is clear of things that can catch on the ground, getting bumpers on etc.. feeling a bit happier about stuff to be honest.

Quote from: mr2garageswindon on April 17, 2024, 12:52Front or rear? rear defo handed.

Front, it sounds like they're handed.

Thanks

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 16, 2024, 17:55Here's where the Wideband sensor is.

And the MAF tube is the same diameter though the sensor MAY be off by 1mm.. I shall raise it as this is exactly what the point of the maf riser isn't it? EDIT: it actually needs to go lower doesn't it?


And yes stock injectors are back in.

Wideband looks in good place 

MAF needs to be EXACTLY as stock setup the slightest difference in diameter or height of sensor in the airflow makes a difference to how the ecu controls the fuelling, if you can fit the stock maf tube in ? thats the best way when using stock ecu takes away any variables.