I've read various threads, but I'm after a bit of specific advice. My 2 is for weekends and fun and only occasionally to actually get anywhere. I bought it instead of saving for a Caterham and may do infrequent track days. It is a 03 FL and has done 90k and is mechanically very sound, but the suspension is definitely tired. I also have the use of other more practical cars.
It is on the original suspension and I will soon be fitting fresh KYB dampers, top mounts, and Tein springs; I'm tempted to do the job properly and fully polybush the suspension and ARBs (not the engine mounts) whilst I'm down there. In the future I intend to buy a front strut brace and mid-brace, and a distant possibility of a 2zz swap. I don't mind a sporty/firm ride, but don't want something that can't handle a spirited drive on standard crappy B-roads with typical patch repairs, drains, potholes, etc.
Any thoughts?
Such a subjective thing. I wouldn't go anywhere near them.
But, our terms of refrence are bound to be different.
Best option is to tap someone up near you that has them fitted and make a judgement based on a real life trial.
Me I'm happy on stock kybs with teins and no extra bracing. I like the compliance and comfort and still have more grip than I'll ever use.
No track work for me.
Side note
Only track I would like to drive is Cadwell, as it mimicks my local B roads with all the elevation changes
I honestly can't tell my car is polybushed. I can tell it's stiff, but that's the coilovers. I also fully polybushed my old MK1 MR2 and had no issues with noise/vibration on that either.
The thing that kills mine is the solid engine mount/poly mounts iput in, that transfers a lot of engine noise into the cabin, and if I were to re-do it I probably wouldn't opt for them.
But the suspension poly bushes are fine, and realistically, what option do you have???
I put a set of GT-4 Play polybuhsed rear arms, HArd race rear toe arms (which have non compliant bushes, just rose joints!), and then new standard front arms, and the car is transformed.
For a track/fast road, car, infrequently used, don't even hesitate, just do it. FOr a real daily driver, I'd still do it by we all have different thresholds of what's acceptable.
Where are you based? Then you can find someone near you to do a test drive?
JoeCool - that's what I wanted to hear! And you are right, what alternatives do I really have if I want to refresh the bushes?
I'm in Bristol. Ding day would have been ideal, but unfortunately I am unlikely to make it due to family stuff.
i may have a full set of polybushed arms for sale soon if you interested ?
Certainly interested, I need to come up with a shopping list and budget for all this!
its not a cheap job, especially if you paying someone else labour to fit them.
mine have been fitted to my track car project but thats just sat and never been used
My current car has quite a bit of polybushing and feels no worse than my previous car both fitted with meister r coilovers.
If anything on pfl wheels it feels more compliant.
Although i am one of the few that likes the harder engine mounts.
I have polybushes all around and I don't notice anything weird. I'm PFL with 15" wheels and 5/7 MeisterR coilovers, if anything I would've noticed something by now.
Three to one in favour, that's probably as close to unanimous as you would ever get on a forum! I'll start pricing stuff, but intend on doing the work myself. If I buy refurbed wishbones from GT4-play is there anything complex or in need of specialist tools?
No, you can replace with pre-bushed wishbones with 2 17mm spanners. Gt-4play want your old arms back for refurbishment. (core charge applies).
Soaking with plunges every day for a few days prior will really help you. There is no major need to replace the toe arms as well, but if you decide you are going to, prepare to have a big fight with the toe adjustment bolts where the meet the sub frame.
plunges? Plusgas I assume?
Quote from: "Superluminal"plunges? Plusgas I assume?
Got to love auto correct.
NO. Plunges. In the deep end. Twice daily. The pool being full of plusgas, obviously.
Quote from: "JoeCool"NO. Plunges. In the deep end. Twice daily. The pool being full of plusgas, obviously.
I'll let you know how that goes!
MOT is next week, so once it's done, I'll poke around underneath the car and give GT4-play a call to work out exactly what I need and how much the damage is going to be.
I've got a Master's dissertation to submit on Monday so this refresh is going to be my reward. Unfortunately window shopping for suspension components is not helping to get it finished. s:? :? s:?
you`ll need a ball joint splitting tool and a big hammer
Quote from: "secla"you`ll need a ball joint splitting tool and a big hammer
For the front lower arms and rear toe arms, yes. I got a £20 lever type ball joint splitter (sealey I think) that did the rear toe arms just fine, but there wasn't enough room to do the front arms with it. I resorted to the tuning fork splitter and lump hammer which did the trick.
JoeCool - thanks, I was just wondering which type to buy.
Tim, Come over and you can have a drive of mine with Polybushes if you like. It has BC Coilovers as well but I can soften them off.
Thanks miles, I'll PM you next time I might be over in that direction.
Rather than start a new thread... has anyone bought the cheap ebay wishbones from the US (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Left-LH-Right-RH-Pair-Set-for-MR2-Scion-xA-xB/351007624127?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D6f0f300a329d453bbed654412160e0c0%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D112406255996&_trkparms=pageci%253A2e559336-40c3-11e7-8298-74dbd1805b50%257Cparentrq%253A3c3d4e9915c0abc66c02e015fffde076%257Ciid%253A1), removed the standard bushes and inserted polybushes? It works out much cheaper than refurbed ones.
Unsure if they're structurally as good as OEM ones
Initial comments from people who have bought them seem positive, if they looked flimsy I would have thought someone would have mentioned it. My concern is the quality and longevity of the rubber in the bushes - I've seen some cheap pattern bushes in replacement parts for other cars that only last a couple of years before crumbling.
The ones I would recommend are from GT4 Play, a very compliant set actually, not that stiff
I got those wishbones. They're oem quality, indistinguishable from Toyota official ones. Personally I'd rather have a new pattern part than a refurbished one where possible. You could try rebushing them but the large vertical bush looks like it would be 'fun' to remove. Mine have standard bushings and they're fine even with very grippy tyres. I just decided that the gains from polybushes there probably weren't worth the cost of the upgrade.
Joecool - How much did you end up paying after tax and customs fees? And how long did they take to arrive?
Ahh, just seen that ebay adds import duty to the basket. The total is about £106 on the current exchange rate.
For reference set up I ended up fitting was:
Nearly new standard KYB dampers
Nearly new Tein S-Tech springs
Refurbished polybushed front wishbones from GT4-Play
Hammerited and polybushed rear arms
Hammerited and polybushed ARBs
Toyota camber bolts on each strut
Alignment I left FCM Motorsport in Bristol with was:
Front: Camber = -1.3, Toe= 0
Rear: Camber = -1.5, Toe= -1
Slightly more road buzz than without the polybushes, but given that it is a weekend car, nothing that is a problem. Too early to tell on the rest of the set up. Full details to follow in readers rides thread http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=61636&p=717428#p717428 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=61636&p=717428#p717428)
EXTRA DETAIL ADDED AFTER A FEW MONTHS: The geo changes mean that back of the car is much more controlled. Interestingly, I sometimes think that this may not be all good. Prior to the new set up there was a lovely ability to easily provoke benign oversteer on roundabouts if wanted. This has now gone and whilst the back still can be provoked it requires real effort and is not acceptable on the road. The payoff is huge confidence on flowing B-roads.
The polybushes have started to creak, not squeak, but only happens at low speed for speed bumps. Not an issue for me, and probably something that could be fixed with silicon spray. I didn't upgrade the ARBs and body roll now seems to be a bit at odds with the rest of the setup!
Quote from: "Superluminal"For reference final set up was:
Nearly new standard KYB dampers
Nearly new Tein S-Tech springs
Refurbished polybushed front wishbones from GT4-Play
Hammerited and polybushed rear arms
Hammerited and polybushed ARBs
Toyota camber bolts on each strut
Alignment:
Front: Camber = -1.3, Toe= 0
Rear: Camber = -1.5, Toe= -1
Slightly more road buzz than without the polybushes, but given that it is a weekend car, nothing that is a problem. Too early to tell on the rest of the set up. Full details to follow in readers rides thread http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=61636&p=717428#p717428
What tyres do you have?
Standard FL wheels and tyres. Mixed set that came with the car with worn Dunlop Sportbluresponse (?!) on the front and nearly new Dunlop SP Sportmax on the rear. I'll put a set of AD08R when they need replacing, possibly going up to 195 front and 225 rear.
Quote from: "Superluminal"Standard FL wheels and tyres. Mixed set that came with the car with worn Dunlop Sportbluresponse (?!) on the front and nearly new Dunlop SP Sportmax on the rear. I'll put a set of AD08R when they need replacing, possibly going up to 195 front and 225 rear.
I would like to think that will make a big difference when you swap them out.
Yep, so everyone says. With the amount of miles I'll put on the car it will take a long time to get through them. A day out at airfield with an abrasive surface might be a fun way of taking care of that though...
Quote from: "Superluminal"Standard FL wheels and tyres. Mixed set that came with the car with worn Dunlop Sportbluresponse (?!) on the front and nearly new Dunlop SP Sportmax on the rear. I'll put a set of AD08R when they need replacing, possibly going up to 195 front and 225 rear.
You might want to keep the different tyre width front to rear no more than 10mm (i.e. 195 front and 205 rear). I found the wider rears were introducing understeer into the car set up and took a lot of further geo tweaks to reduce it. 205/195 seemed to give a nicer neutral balance.
All my opinion of course and feel free to ignore me s:) :) s:)