Car getting really damp left on the drive

Started by househead, January 9, 2024, 18:39

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househead

So I'm not entirely sure if this is a new problem or just an old one which was being mitigated by where it was left, but my car is getting really damp inside when left on the drive - even with the hardtop on. Today I looked in to and cleaned up a mouldy mess, and 6 hours later it's already starting to get damp again (it hasn't rained since but outdoor humidity is obviously high).

This is the first winter in this house, where it's parked outside a (very full) garage, north-facing, and not getting any daytime sun. At the old place it was on an east-facing drive with plenty of daytime sun. It always did get plenty of condensation, but I guess the sun dried a lot of it off.

I did have clogged drain and filling back bins a few months back in autumn with the soft-top on, which I cleared out. There's no visible water pooling anymore, so I guess it's just not very airtight, although it looks like it is on my basic inspection. Maybe it's pooled elsewhere out of the obvious places?

I have a cover I could put on it, but part of me is wondering if that will make it worse rather than better. I can't really fit it in the garage anytime soon, and my only other option is to park it differently on the drive, but that would use up my guest space so not ideal.

Any ideas, tips, things to check (apart from the drainage bins)?
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Alex Knight

I can't offer any tips other than to find the clear water ingress issue you have.

If it were me, I'd set aside a weekend to clear the garage, then park the car in there where it belongs.

Carolyn

I always found that the rear window in the hardtop would get downright wet in damp weather.  I think the seals around the base get a bit tired and water gets past.

I bought some self adhesive foam tape and put it onto of the base seals to make them a bit fatter and more resilient..  It did help quite a bit.  But I think a cover might be worth a try, though a cover can easily mark the paint.

I would dry the inside of the car out before covering it up.  I used a small fan-heater on a low setting  to get it dry.
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McMr2

We have an older car in the family that suffers from this - no AC certainly doesn't help. If there's no leak and it's a case of managing the situation, a couple of those dehumidifier bean bag things do work quite well.
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paulj

In a similar vein to @Carolyn I was going to ask if the hard top might be more leaky than the soft top given the problem is worse now.  I am driving a Streetka this winter whilst the MR2 is tucked away (another story altogether) but do find that it also gets wetter than i'd expect.  Taking the car on a drive and warming it up clears most and it will remain dryish for a few days. Do you get out in yours? Dont forget it has also been the wettest winter for a few years!
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househead

Quote from: Alex Knight on January  9, 2024, 20:38I can't offer any tips other than to find the clear water ingress issue you have.

If it were me, I'd set aside a weekend to clear the garage, then park the car in there where it belongs.

That's a bit of dream, sadly. Firstly, having the time (I know, I know) but perhaps more importantly just not having an alternative place to put all the stuff!

One day!
2004 Sable Red Edition, TTE Twin Exhaust, Toyosports Manifold

househead

Quote from: paulj on January  9, 2024, 21:12In a similar vein to @Carolyn I was going to ask if the hard top might be more leaky than the soft top given the problem is worse now.  I am driving a Streetka this winter whilst the MR2 is tucked away (another story altogether) but do find that it also gets wetter than i'd expect.  Taking the car on a drive and warming it up clears most and it will remain dryish for a few days. Do you get out in yours? Dont forget it has also been the wettest winter for a few years!

Yea, it's difficult to say given the seasonal aspect of the soft vs hard top, but I did put it on quite late this year.

Can't drive it just the now - well not legally anyway, as it's due to go in to have binding rear callipers swapped out and replacement front suspension crossmember in order to pass MOT, so there's a few weeks before I can take it for a run.

I've put an open bag of cat litter in there tonight, see if that helps hold some moisture. Desperate times!
2004 Sable Red Edition, TTE Twin Exhaust, Toyosports Manifold

househead

Quote from: Carolyn on January  9, 2024, 21:01I always found that the rear window in the hardtop would get downright wet in damp weather.  I think the seals around the base get a bit tired and water gets past.

I bought some self adhesive foam tape and put it onto of the base seals to make them a bit fatter and more resilient..  It did help quite a bit.  But I think a cover might be worth a try, though a cover can easily mark the paint.

I would dry the inside of the car out before covering it up.  I used a small fan-heater on a low setting  to get it dry.

Sounds like a good idea to bolster the seals. I'll also dry it out and try the cover on it.

I reckon the sun and position has been saving me in previous years. I'd see it all condensed up late at night and by the next day it was clear, whereas this afternoon, there was ice on the inside  :-[
2004 Sable Red Edition, TTE Twin Exhaust, Toyosports Manifold

Alex Knight

Quote from: househead on January  9, 2024, 21:57That's a bit of dream, sadly. Firstly, having the time (I know, I know) but perhaps more importantly just not having an alternative place to put all the stuff!

One day!

Having moved many, many times in my short time on this earth, I would humbly suggest it's just 'stuff' and that you most likely don't need most of it in my own experience...

Petrus

#9
Quote from: Carolyn on January  9, 2024, 21:01I always found that the rear window in the hardtop would get downright wet in damp weather.  I think the seals around the base get a bit tired and water gets past.

I bought some self adhesive foam tape and put it onto of the base seals to make them a bit fatter and more resilient.

Alternatively lay a bead of silicon grease on the seal and lower the ht on it. Yes that is a bit more messy but easy enough to wipe off again and unlike foam does not hold moisture.

Hope you get it sorted soon and enjoy!

Carolyn

Quote from: Petrus on January 10, 2024, 00:02Alternatively lay a bead of silicon grease on the seal and lower the ht on it. Yes that is a bit more messy but easy enough to wipe off again and unlike foam does not hold moisture.

Hope you get it sorted soon and enjoy!

The tape I used is closed cell foam, so it doesn't hold moisture.  I've also used it to good effect on David's tin top convertible VW, which had the same problem, i.e. the rear window becoming waterlogged.  In that case, I stuck the tape to the surface that the roof seal lands on. It conformed to the curves very well.
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Topdownman

If you have had the bins flooded, water may have gone under the carpet. If that has happened, it will still be there under the carpet in the wadding between the plastic backed carpet and the floor. You may be able to take the plastic trim off under the door to see if that feels wet, if it does than I would take the seats out to lift the carpet to dry it out.

I would also test out the drains and bags by pouring water down the edge of the roof and seeing if you can feel any moisture on the outer side of the bag. I had a couple of small leaks in one of mine which I fixed with a stormsure kit.

The kitty litter should help, some people put it in old socks.

Good luck!
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mr9

Are the footwells damp?

I had a leak somewhere at the driver's side base of windscreen that was coming through down the bulkhead in the footwell.

I eventually could see drips forming on the inside when pouring water down the windscreen.

I followed the drainage path and had to liberally apply some sealant into a blind gap/hole which seems to have done the job.

ManInDandism

You might try some car dehumidifiers . Not used them myself but the testimonies seem more than adequate. 
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Gaz mr-s

When you had the plastic bins out, did you do deal with the secondary drain?

househead

Quote from: Gaz mr-s on January 11, 2024, 13:30When you had the plastic bins out, did you do deal with the secondary drain?

Is that the bottom drain? That's the one that was blocked. Does seem to be draining properly now.

Carpets and footwells etc weren't wet.

I've dried it out thoroughly today and thrown the cover on it. Looks like the cat litter was doing a job tbh (albeit with some weird dust on the windows).
2004 Sable Red Edition, TTE Twin Exhaust, Toyosports Manifold

Gaz mr-s

Quote from: househead on January 11, 2024, 19:32Is that the bottom drain? That's the one that was blocked. Does seem to be draining properly now.
Carpets and footwells etc weren't wet.

No.  Under the plastic bins is a round rubber that looks like a grommet. It's a 6" long drain pipe, designed ridiculously narrow, & the silt-up & get blocked.  The bins fill a bit, & then when the car is driven, the water sloshes forward, over the bulkhead & underneath the carpet.  The carpets have significant plastic backing which water doesn't permeate through, so touching the top of the carpet reveals nothing.
Get a good pair of pliers & haul the rubber hoses out.  Never get water build-up again.   

carspath

Please could you explain how to get the plastic bins out so that I can get access to these rubber grommets.

Also , where are these grommets to be found please ?

Thank you

Gaz mr-s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAus1AAhvXc

Watching some of this might help you.  It's not difficult, just a bit laborious. Removing one or both seats makes the ergonomics much easier.
The end of the rubber hose is in the exposed metal.

If you're doing it for prevention, if your drains work ok just now, it's a job best left for warmer weather.

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