Well after tehe issues encountered at Anglesea I though it might be interesting to document the results of fixing my melting issues.
I'll update this thread as I go.
more to come.
What melted? And why?
I remember when Daz had an issue with his apexi turbo and melted all the plastics near,around and including the SMT fluid tank. Made a bit of a mess. s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "mr-s_turbo"What melted? And why?
Keep up lad! s;) ;) s;)
m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 826#127826 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=127826#127826) m
Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "mr-s_turbo"What melted? And why?
Keep up lad! s;) ;) s;)
m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 826#127826 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=127826#127826) m
s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:oops: :oops: s:oops: Sorry not got alot of time at moment to read all the threads.
Search man search s:P :P s:P
Don't worry, I never check the Events-area either, cause there's not much interest to people outside UK. s:? :? s:? I read his post about the issue on SC though..
right first update
I've not dropped the manifold/turbo yet as I want to change the oil whilst I can still run the engine
However spent moday getting together all teh parts that I need to replace
so far not as bad as anticipated.
Mint rear bumper (needs painting)
rear upper grill
Suspension top mount dust cover
All in £40, cheers Adam, s:D :D s:D
popped of to MrT for a new release cable and clips for the rear deck, surprisingly only came to £18 s:D :D s:D
part numbers for those interested
T69307-17080
T90467-13012
T90959-01369
current cost less than £70
I've also ordered a load of high heat protective tape to do the o2 harnesses and other vulnerable wiring.
More updates soon.
s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Hip, Hip, Hooray for Adam!
not looking too bad now Mark, you should be ready for the dyno day now, even if your ass is a different colour from stock!
Quote from: "kanujunkie"not looking too bad now Mark, you should be ready for the dyno day now, even if your ass is a different colour from stock!
You'd better be, it's over a month away!
time for another update
Stu spent this morning helping me dismantle everything and remove teh manifold.
not good news.
1. Manifold-Turbo was secured with studs which had sheared and will need drilling out s:-( :-( s:-(
2. Flexipipe to turbo has snapped where teh flexipipe welds in. So that will need fixing/replacing
3. manifold isn't wearing to well. I knew it needed recoating but the welds aren't wearing very well.
Hopefuly stu will have pics later on.
Sean, the pics you posted on Sc ref your manifold aren't far off mine so if you can post them here. ta
not a good day s:-( :-( s:-(
s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
This doesn't bode well for me or Tommy... s:( :( s:(
Got any pics of those sheared studs, Mark?
hopefull Stu has but I will take some soon.
I don't understand where teh tearing force has come from to shear them especially as teh other 2 would prevent twisting.
flexi pipe, I suspect Jays recent comment ref the flexi pipe breaking if your don't beef up teh engine mounts
shame he only mentions it now and not 12 months ago, also a shame it's not in teh manual for new purchasers s:-( :-( s:-(
Tom changed exhaust and you have kirks mounts so hopefully you can avoid that.
However I would be concerned ref the studs, and teh condition of you manifold in general. you NEED that Turbo brace ASAP
I spent a good 15 mins working out if I could afford to drop another 4K and simply buy teh TTE
not finacially viable though so we struggle. on.
I am however less than impressed with long term durability of this kit
Put it this way: After seeing what has happened to yours and Sean's cars recently, I won't be driving mine again without a brace on it.
I thought you were braced Dan s:? :? s:?
Bit of a mystery how you'd get the movement to shear 2 studs only Mark. All I can think of is that the 2 pairs/holes weren't exactly parallel, so 2 have been under extra sideways strain since install?
You've got me worried now - the Hass looks so much more industrial in construction than the C2. Must do a checkover. I think Kirk mounts are going to be a must-do though.
No brace for me, was on my list of things for Thor to do but I forgot. s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Here's hoping I haven't paid the price for my forgetfulness...
Sorry Mark, BOT s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Damn Mark s:( :( s:( Not good.
If you can't get those studs out - remember the place that did the manifolds will spark erode the studs for £40 cash. Granted they're in Poole, but I'm sure I can get your manifold down there & back somehow s;) ;) s;)
For the flexi section - 3S seem to have a good supplier of interlocking (solid segment inner) flexi sections in various sizes and lengths, and can get them welded in for a decent enough price.. Worth thinking about, anyhow.
But yes.. long term reliability of the Hass is not looking so hot right now s:( :( s:( (er, pardon the bad pun!)
sorry guys, no pictures other than the bit that mark didn't mention,the right light
(http://www.tandridgecanoe.co.uk/roadster/moltenlt.jpg)
Marks forgotten that were like a couple of old women when it comes to things, we spent the 3 1/2 hrs of stripping it, gossiping and bitching and as such forgot to take any pictures s:oops: :oops: s:oops: the bolts at the back have literally snapped, my thoughts are not that the flanges were drilled offset to each other as Ste suggested but that the thermal expansion of the metal as it ran lean literally snapped the studs off, it arguable as to wether it had happened recently or not as the front surface of what was left of the stud already had corrosion on it and more than i'd expect in a week. personally guys i'd now say that this had happened before Anglesey!
As for the rest of the manifold, well it looks as though theres another issue. At anglesey, Sean asked me to take some pictures of what appeared to be cracking in the seam welds but we couldn't see what was causing it as the ceramic coating was covering the area. Well on Marks one the coating has come away badly and you have a clear view of a potential issue. Thankfully in a way the ceramic coating protected most of the metal allowing the cracks to corrode and expose themselves. They appear to dissapear into the metal welds!!!!! again my personal view is that they didn't clean up the metal before welding and its led to a weak spot that has started to crack, my expectations will be that it WILL seperate if given enough time and unless Hass improved there quality control, so will Dans and Tommy's. This is however fixable, were going to spend a few hours on Marks and investigate this a bit more by carefully grinding down one of the welds so that we can see how far the cracks go in. at the end of the day though it looks like a cut, clean and reweld job, but its something that just shouldn't happen.
watch this space i guess
Quote from: "markiii"Sean, the pics you posted on Sc ref your manifold aren't far off mine so if you can post them here. ta
And here they are - I have PM'd Spyderchat's resident metals expert for his opinion - I'll update when I have more info.
(http://www.slacey.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/manifold1.jpg)
(http://www.slacey.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/manifold2.jpg)
(http://www.slacey.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/manifold3.jpg)
(http://www.slacey.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/manifold4.jpg)
My opinion is that theres too much load through the relatively thin walled manifold. It has cracked at the weld due to local hardening of the metal that ocurrs during the welding process. The weight of the turbo and the fact that the turbo flange is beefy in comparison to the tube its welded to results in a large stress concentration factor at the change in material hardness at the weld. As the the forces generated by the turbo "bouncing up and down" are in effect being disipated through this tube the result is failure at the weld. If you look at the amount of bracing on the stock manifold in comparison to the Haas it's obvious that more bracing is needed to support the weight of the turbo - which we kinda know now! I strongly suggest that other Haas owners check their manifolds and reinforce ASAP s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
There is one other solution, ask Gas of C2 power if he will do a GB for all Hass owners for a run of his latest cast iron manifolds. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "LeeUK"There is one other solution, ask Gas of C2 power if he will do a GB for all Hass owners for a run of his latest cast iron manifolds. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
daft question but are you saying they are actually CAST?
Quote from: "markiii"daft question but are you saying they are actually CAST?
Quote from: "Snippet of an E-mail from Gas"The turbo will come with the support bracket yes. And cast iron manifold.
s:D :D s:D
could be your answer guys, would save a lot of hassle, but is the adaptor plate the same and is the header the same length??
Quote from: "kanujunkie"could be your answer guys, would save a lot of hassle, but is the adaptor plate the same and is the header the same length??
We're awaiting the pics Stu, and I'm told I'll need to mod my DP angle when I switch, but on the basis that its similar to the C2 welded log, there will be some differences to Hass: notably - turbo take-off is central rather than offset, and (because of this) no O2 sensors in the manifold.
Adapter plate will fit the Garrett - same unit - albeit a reverse orientation between C2 and Hass. And height/angle will of course be different. So feasible but not without issues.
I suppose if he is willing, and its viable, Gas could get hold of a retired Hass Manifold as a template for a new casting? I'm not sure how many C2 casts he is planning on shifting, but they're
very reasonably priced s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "spit"albeit a reverse orientation between C2 and Hass
ISTR that the T3 flange is symmetrical, so that, at least, isn't an issue s;) ;) s;)
One of us (thinking of Me, Stu, Dan, Mark & Lee)
really needs to learn to weld - fixing up those changes would be an absolute doddle with some T304 tube if someone could weld.. s;) ;) s;)
Shhhhhh........... Aaron quite down man! s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Quote from: "aaronjb"ISTR that the T3 flange is symmetrical, so that, at least, isn't an issue s;) ;) s;)
Yes it is - at least the gasket fits either way up/round. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
As for repairing, surely to all thats holy we must have a class welder somewhere in our membership?
Bump
How's it going Mark?
you may have to shout louder Ste, i lent Mark my dremel thing a couple of days ago to dig around in the crack, guess he's hard at it
still here, if I ever fiish these bloody wardrobes I'll do some more digging
s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "kanujunkie"dig around in the crack, guess he's hard at it
s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Man that dremel has an attachment for EVERYTHING s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Time for an update
firstly how did it happen?
Having batted around a few thoughts with Hass owners on both sides of teh pond I have a working theory.
As standard Jay ships teh kit without a turbo support which in turn puts all of teh strain on teh manifold studs.
Under power the engine tries to rotate downwards and the exhaust fights this. End resut is that teh manifold tried to pivot upwards on teh studs.
Typically this has resulted in stripped studs in a number of instances.
Following Seans having this issue we both had turbo braces made to teh same design to keep the turbo against the block and prevent stripped studs.
however;
We had the brace on teh left hand side of teh turbo. The Hass exhaust exits on the right hand side of teh turbo.
Follow teh same scenario again, engine rotates down (or tries too) but the brace prevents the manifold moving relative to teh block. However it exerts force on teh left hand side of teh turbo. The exhaust tries to fight the downward motion by pulling backwards on teh right hand side of teh turbo.
Effectively a torsional load is placed on teh turbo as it attempts to twist clockwise relative to teh manifold. Obviously it cant, but all of teh torsional stress is now located on the manifold/turbo joint.
On inspection the only stud between turbo and manifold intact on mine was the one around which this pivoting motion would occur. 2 others sheared clean off and the 4th was bent like a banana.
lending credence to teh theory.
Seans issues above occur at what I would consider the next weakest point the mainfold weld. So assuming that his studs coped better than mine (for whatever reason) the next point of failure is exactly where his weld is failing.
Additionally teh only other person to have braced a Hass yet is WTS in the US, and he braced his on teh right hand side of teh turbo. This should prevent teh issue as teh opposig pull forces are now directly opposed and no torsional stress is applied.
Lesson learned Brace Both sides of teh Turbo. s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
Fortunately Dan had this done before he sold his car and I've since bought that brace off him. s:D :D s:D
We also discovered o dissasembly that my flexi joint had ripped apart. The Hass Flexi is on teh exhaust to teh right of teh turbo. And as such is subject to the same opposing forces when teh engine attempts to rotate.
Jay has since advised everyone to fit harder engine mounts to prevent this, but I dare say running 10psi and booting it into first on teh hairpin made this one my own fault s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Curious as to how this issue affect other Turbo kits I did some digging
PE, Top Secret, and the TTE ALL have there kits designed so that they mate back up with teh stock CAT. I've always wondered why teh stock CAT takes teh odd route down and under teh grey cross member but am now convinced it is so that the flexi joints get compressed as teh engine trys to rotate, thus preventing them from tearing.
Nice design feature guys.
Looking at teh C2 I beleive it could be sligtly more problematic than teh TTE,PE, Top secret, but is way better than the Hass design in this respect. (Stu don't panic it will be fine)
So what next?
Having wired brushed down my manifold welds they looked OK to me. However rather than take the risk and spend more money coating a potentially suspect manifold it was time to call in teh experts.
in teh form of H&S.
Thanks to Lee for droppig it in for me.
The guys at H&S couldn't see an issue with teh welds short of getting it xrayed but were slightly concerned that teh manifold flange had only been welded around teh outside edge and nothing at all on teh inside edge.
However for £20 they fixed it for me and did a blinding job too.
see below.
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/hsweld.jpg)
so thanks to Lee and H&S
next job was to remove teh sheared studs and boy was that a pain. The studs themselves were so soft that easy outs just ripped back out again, leaving no alternative but to very carefully drill out teh studs. I reckon I got lucky on this one and with some very careful use of a Tap was able to clear out the thread just fine.
Worth noting is that while an American kit these holes are standard Metric M8 with a 1.25mm thread.
So finally I finished Monday with a manifold now ready to be recoated.
see below
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/fixedstuds.jpg)
Thanks to Lee, Ste, and Tom for suggesting Camcoat as they are going to recoat it with their black satin triplecoat for £100, bargain :-) :-) :-)
Manifold is now all wrapped and being sent off this week. Estimated turnaround is 2 weeks.
Next job is to change the molten release cable for teh engine deck.
Stay tuned
s:arrow: :arrow: s:arrow:
Top job Mark s:) :) s:)
While on the subject of the PE's exhaust design - notice that it also has a divorced wastegate, thanks to mating to the stock CAT pipe. Nice feature s:) :) s:)
As always, if you need an extra pair of hands, just give me a call s:) :) s:)
good to hear the progress Mark, as Aaron said if you need a hand then give us a buzz, think i may owe you severely before long anyway
oh and i can vouch for camcoats black satin quality, the gear sat in my spare room speaks a thousand words s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Thanks for the update Mark. Having seen how substantial the Hass pipework is in comparison to the C2, I've been getting worried about this.
Its amazing though that bracing the turbo off-centre would lead to this kind of catastrophic failure. Is there only a limited amount of flex in the flexi and exhaust hanger arrangement?
I'm trying to relate what happened to you to the early C2 design. Not good at physics but I may be unwittingly OK!
My brace is not physically connected to the turbo housing s:oops: :oops: s:oops: That might be a good thing....... I'd already ceramic coated when the brace arrived and I discovered that when everything was offered up the brace nestled nicely (and tightly) dead centre under the base of the casting.
More luck than judgement, but this supports the weight of the turbo and allows any twisting forces to be absorbed by the bits that are designed to absorb them ie the flexi joint and rubber exhaust hangers.
.....but I'll keep an eye on it s:roll: :roll: s:roll: ....particularly cos I'm still on stock engine mounts s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Ste,
From memory the C2 exhaust design allows a little more give.
The HASS flexi while I reckon able to absorb a compression movement isn't vwery stretchy at all.
My intention is to replace with an 8-10" section of higher quality flexi, perhaps with a small kink to alleviate this.
thinking about it Martin's old Turbo (Now with BenF) was PE based and he replaced teh whole exhaust with a custom jobby which changed teh design of teh flexi.
As a result he cracked it at least 5 times. His exasperated exhaust shop eventually put around 2 feet of flexi in and it hasn't gone since.
ref teh engine mounts for $40 they really are a no brainer
Quote from: "markiii"Fortunately Dan had this done before he sold his car and I've since bought that brace off him.
I'm just too generous. Had the brace on there for about two days, then ripped it off and sold the car! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: Damn nice brace it is, too.
BTW, have you dug your wallet out Mark? s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
hmmm mental note to self not to remind people you owe them money LOL
I'll send it over in teh next couple of days
Quote from: "Ekona"I'm just too generous. Had the brace on there for about two days, then ripped it off
Yeah Marks said it was a rip off s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "markiii"hmmm mental note to self not to remind people you owe them money LOL
I'll send it over in the next couple of days
No rush mate, whenever is good for you.
@Phil: s:P :P s:P He wasn't wrong though: Great brace, but not worth the £200-odd I paid for it.
er no, you were right royally bent over on that one
Nice writeup!
My problem all involved cylinder head studs and happened within 2000 miles of the turbo installation. These all occured before bracing and before kirkosaurus motor mount inserts were added.
The bottom centre stud fell out like a dead tooth and that makes sense if the engine twists back and down under acceleration. The bottom edge of the exhaust flange would act as a jerking lever against it.
The 2nd exhaust manifold stud to go was on the far right (your drivers).
It simply sheared in two. Possibly from thermal expansion. I just put another one in its place thats been OK ever since.
3rd stud to strip was the upper middle left . Head threads came out with it.
Its brother to the right immediatly suffered the same fate as I gave it a viscious crank with a biggish spanner. Just twisted it right out of the block.
Drove it to my buddies shop with all 3 center studs missing and there was no exhaust leak.
Am redoing everything this summer and will look at new bracing options as well.
Any pics of your £200 brace?
Mines just a $1.50 worth of mild steel.
I'll takle some and posta template as well, but seriously Dan got screwed on teh price, I suspect it's not different to yours
Quote from: "markiii"I'll takle some and posta template as well..
That would be handy. My new manifold is now on and I don't want this one going bad if I can help it.
Looking through the TTE install manual it just shows how much more sensible the layout is. Not only is the Turbo braced dead-centre underneath, but making the DP into a full U-bend to retain the stock Cat position makes for a very clever alignment. The stock Cat flexi pair must be pretty decent to cope with the extra vigour of stretching under boost though. I'm sure this has been engineered to be FFP.
Because us non-TTET guys all have more off-centre forces in play, I think capacity for both compression and stretch needs to be looked at on our kits. I'm getting worried again cos my exhaust isn't as free-hanging as I'd like it to be (remember those awful twin-tip alignment issues I had?) and the DP flexi isn't as mobile as the twin stockers.
Worth keeping an eye on........ s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Do I need to worry ? oh mighty turbo guru's ?
Its something we're just going to have to keep an eye on for now, Phil.
Just been in the garage replacing a T-DP allen bolt that had gone AWOL (
hate those things).
I figured the twisting etc might have caused it, but on closer inspection it turns out the hole in the DP flange is "dished" (in a saddle-type stylee) s:shock: :shock: s:shock: The head of the old bolt was only mating with the flange at two points, so no wonder it rode loose. Turns out I've lost 2 of the 5, but all replaced now and I'm carrying stock s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Also loose was one of the Mani-Turbo fastenings. Tweaked up and nutlocked..... but I'm gonna have to review these fixings soon I reckon. You're on a stud Phil, aren't you? s:P :P s:P [/list]
Anyhoo, back to the twisting - I tried to gauge the twisting from a reverse angle......by lifting the o/s exhaust tip. This causes the engine to move s:? :? s:? The flexi absorbs some of it but I'm concluding that it probably isn't enough.
So I'd also value the guru thoughts and any preventative maintenance ideas.
Im all spotted up s:?: :?: s:?: s:idea: :idea: s:idea:
seriously get the enginemounts
Good point, Stu I have your mounts in my living room, when you next pop over or vice a versa Ill hand em back to you.
Thanks,
Philster.
Quote from: "philster_d"Good point, Stu I have your mounts in my living room, when you next pop over or vice a versa Ill hand em back to you.
Thanks,
Philster.
cheers mate, i may pop around on Thursday evening if thats ok.
Ste, i'm going to be drilling all my allen key bolts so that they can be wirelocked on, I can see why Gas uses the allen key bolts but its definatly a weak point, drilling and wirelocking IMHO is the only way to go, its a 100% guaranteed way of them never coming out again
Quote from: "kanujunkie"Ste, i'm going to be drilling all my allen key bolts so that they can be wirelocked on, I can see why Gas uses the allen key bolts but its definatly a weak point, drilling and wirelocking IMHO is the only way to go, its a 100% guaranteed way of them never coming out again
Wont stop them coming loose though. Which is 90% of the battle. You need something to stop them coming loose in the first place.
I thought we'd discussed this before ... s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8500 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8500) m
Quote from: "GSB"The best threadlocking device I have ever-ever used, bar none, is the Nordlock... Its better than spring washers, its better than split-pins, nylocs, double bolting... etc.. These are, quite simply, the best...
They woork by untilising a system that means that if the nut wants to undo, due to vibration, thermal cycling etc, then the joint actually has to get tighter to do it... They are brilliant...
(http://www.nordlock.com/design/animutter_small.gif)
See here for more info on how they work...
m http://www.nordlock.com/default.asp?url=3.16.37 (http://www.nordlock.com/default.asp?url=3.16.37) m
Also, I would recommend torquing your bolts down during intitial buliding, and re-torquing them when hot.
Quote from: "GSB"Quote from: "kanujunkie"Ste, i'm going to be drilling all my allen key bolts so that they can be wirelocked on, I can see why Gas uses the allen key bolts but its definatly a weak point, drilling and wirelocking IMHO is the only way to go, its a 100% guaranteed way of them never coming out again
Wont stop them coming loose though. Which is 90% of the battle. You need something to stop them coming loose in the first place.
sorry Grant, i'm interested as to why would you say that, the whole point of wirelocking is to stop them coming undone in the first place
Quote from: "kanujunkie"Quote from: "GSB"Quote from: "kanujunkie"Ste, i'm going to be drilling all my allen key bolts so that they can be wirelocked on, I can see why Gas uses the allen key bolts but its definatly a weak point, drilling and wirelocking IMHO is the only way to go, its a 100% guaranteed way of them never coming out again
Wont stop them coming loose though. Which is 90% of the battle. You need something to stop them coming loose in the first place.
sorry Grant, i'm interested as to why would you say that, the whole point of wirelocking is to stop them coming undone in the first place
One to many late night call ins for items of power plant that have fallen to bits, and were previously held together with wirelocking... s:evil: :evil: s:evil: Wirelocks always leave scope for the fastener to move, even its just a little bit, and that can ruin the integrity of the joint you're trying to keep together.. Thats just my experience in my industry though, I appreciate you're in a slightly more
delicate field of engineering than myself, that makes very good and reliable use of wirelocking.
In its place though, we have substituted a number of measures that seom might say were a little more agricultural than wirelocking, but they have a 100% success rate. Other than the use of threadlocking gunk, theres the use of Nordlock washers, and the slightly more permanaent practice of of tourquing a bolt down, and then tack welding it in place. Not something you're likely to see on an aircraft any time soon I know, but my jet engine here wieghs about the same as a fully laden jumbo!
aaaaahhhh, i see what you mean, the type of wirelocking i do does allow up to 30degs of rotation before it locks, i'm hopeing that it will be enough along with high temp thread locker, lock washers and anything else i can think of
Quote from: "kanujunkie"aaaaahhhh, i see what you mean, the type of wirelocking i do does allow up to 30degs of rotation before it locks, i'm hopeing that it will be enough along with high temp thread locker, lock washers and anything else i can think of
How about Tab washers? Cheap, effective, and allow a lot less movement than 30 Degrees, which is quite alot...
Put it this way, on a standard M10 thread, 30 degrees of movement is just over 1/10th of a mm gap opened up in the joint... Its not huge, and it may not leak, but it just beacame a potential weak point without ever compromising the wirelock.
Tab washers and Allen bolts don't go well together though do they?
I've never liked Allens for anything other than lightly-torqued cover plates or cosmetics (eg mo'bike clutch covers etc). I just don't think they're appropriate for torqued applications with high temp variance.
Be interested to see how you get on with wire-locking Stu.
Just to put this into perspective, I'm 11,000 miles in and the body count is pretty low considering no locking other than a blob of blue:
s:arrow: :arrow: s:arrow: Manifold stock nuts (x5) - INTACT
s:arrow: :arrow: s:arrow: Manifold-T allen bolt and 13mm nut (x4) - INTACT but 1 finger-loose, now tightened
s:arrow: :arrow: s:arrow: T-DP allen bolts M8x25 (x3) - 2 AWOL (? due to "saddled" hole), now replaced
s:arrow: :arrow: s:arrow: T-DP allen bolts M6x20 (x2) - INTACT
s:arrow: :arrow: s:arrow: DP-Exhaust Nut and Bolt (x2) - INTACT
[Oil feed T-piece cobbled tap washer (x1) - INTACT-ish s:wink: :wink: s:wink: ]
Leaks - NONE
But of course this could all change very rapidly and catastrophically s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Quote from: "GSB"I thought we'd discussed this before ... s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8500 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8500) m
Quote from: "GSB"The best threadlocking device I have ever-ever used, bar none, is the Nordlock... Its better than spring washers, its better than split-pins, nylocs, double bolting... etc.. These are, quite simply, the best...
They woork by untilising a system that means that if the nut wants to undo, due to vibration, thermal cycling etc, then the joint actually has to get tighter to do it... They are brilliant...
(http://www.nordlock.com/design/animutter_small.gif)
See here for more info on how they work...
m http://www.nordlock.com/default.asp?url=3.16.37 (http://www.nordlock.com/default.asp?url=3.16.37) m
Also, I would recommend torquing your bolts down during intitial buliding, and re-torquing them when hot.
While we're at it (again s8) 8) s8) ), is there a place where you could buy decent amounts of those? Local dealer would've been happy to sell boxes of 1000 and 10,000, depending on the sizes I wanted, but that felt a bit too much for my needs. s:? :? s:?
They have sold themselves to me so I am trying to find a supplier now - Grant, do you have any leads?
RS Sell them. w www.rswww.com (http://www.rswww.com) w
Not sure if you need an account or not, but they're roughly £10+VAT for a box of 50 for sizes M3, M4, M5, M6, M8 & M10, and then the same sort of cost for a box of 10 in sizes M12, M16 and M20.
What sizes are actually needed? I'll have a dig around in my washer bin and see what I have left over here.
Quote from: "GSB"Not sure if you need an account or not, but they're roughly £10+VAT for a box of 50
Thanks, that's more like it. s8) 8) s8)
QuoteWhat sizes are actually needed? I'll have a dig around in my washer bin and see what I have left over here.
I don't remember. s:oops: :oops: s:oops: I was going to try them on the manifold to head nuts, all 5 of them. I do have the MWR ARP studs there, if that makes a difference, but I think they are pretty much the same size. If you have 5, that would be great, but I don't mind buying a box of 50 either..
Manifold->Head are M8, IIRC.
so are they reuseable or are they toast once you've removed the nut?
Quote from: "aaronjb"Manifold->Head are M8, IIRC.
Yep, that's what I need (5 of). If there is enough interest I may buy a box and distribute them to those that want them in return for a small donation to the club.
Quote from: "markiii"so are they reuseable or are they toast once you've removed the nut?
Reuseable - just need to lubricate first apparently (according to the website).
OK, box of 50 ordered. If anyone wants some then I can send you 5 at a cost of £1.50 delivered - £1 will go to club funds from each order. I will post in private sales shortly to make management easier.
Sean (or anyone) - can these be used to good effect at the head of bolts rather than on nuts?
I can't see why not, but you guys will probably know better.
I'm thinking for the M8s that I have holding the T-DP flange together (where the Garrett has blind threaded holes) aswell as the Manifold side.
Another constraint might be the diameter of these things - there isn't much clearance around my flange plate holes, so they might be fouled by the Flange/DP body weld rather than sit flush s:? :? s:?
Quote from: "spit"Sean (or anyone) - can these be used to good effect at the head of bolts rather than on nuts?
I can't see why not, but you guys will probably know better.
I'm thinking for the M8s that I have holding the T-DP flange together (where the Garrett has blind threaded holes) aswell as the Manifold side.
They're fine for bolt heads too.
just to bring this back on topic
manifold is now back from camcoat, and they've done a very nice job.
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/coatedmanifold.jpg)
Stu and I stripped and cleaned everything in sight yesterday (cheers bud), cleaned teh whole block fitted the krankvents and catchcan, and had a general tidy up.
I've just been to Nissan and bought there gaskets for manifold to turbo and turbo to exhaust as they are much better than teh pressed tinfoil Garrett jobbies (thanks to Aarron for trawling part numbers for me.
for anyone else reading this later
Turbo to Manifold is a rectangular 4 bolt flange, Nissan part number for this on teh S14 200SX is 1441575F10 and comes in at £12.70
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/nissanturbogasket.jpg)
Turbo to exhaust (odd shaped 5 bolt affair) Nissan part number for the s14 200SX 1444575F10 cost £16.48
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/nissanexhaustgasket.jpg)
These fit standard GT28 Family Garret Turbos including those on teh Hass and C2 kits
the reason for using these is that they are propper crush gaskets.
Since I'm rebuilding I figured I may as well do it right.
EDIT Pics know added
good just whistle if you need owt s:D :D s:D
Great to hear that you're making headway Mark
Quote from: "markiii"I've just been to Nissan and bought there gaskets for manifold to turbo and turbo to exhaust as they are much better than the pressed tinfoil Garrett jobbies (thanks to Aarron for trawling part numbers for me.
for anyone else reading this later.....
Dang! 2 days too late s:cry: :cry: s:cry: Seem to have got away with re-using the M-T gasket but this is good info for the future - thanks guys.
Quote from: "markiii"thanks to Aarron for trawling part numbers for me.
No probs Mark - felt like I'd failed as I didn't have them sitting in a box, so I thought the least I could do was find the part numbers for you, to save you battling with unhelpful parts desk people s;) ;) s;)
next update folks
Post fitting Stus turbo I cleaned everything in teh engine bay as it was covered in oil and shit
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/cleanengine.jpg)
I can strongly reccomend a mini steamer and fairy power spray :-) :-) :-)
having cut down some oversize studs too fit today I refitted the manifold to teh turbo, (with nordlocks) and re bolted everything to teh block.
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/turborefitted.jpg)
and as promised here is a pic of teh brace that goes to teh right hand side of teh turbo
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/turbobrace.jpg)
a mate called in yesterday who happens to be a welder by profession and I asked his opinion on my broken flexi joint, see pics below
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/flexiflange.jpg)
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/flexi.jpg)
interstingly he commented that teh flexi never appeared to have been welded to it's flange and appeared to have been purely a tight push fit.?
anyone else car to comment? before I pop it over to H&S for comment?
pass comment on the quality of a Superior Hass product, ooohh, i couldn't do that s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Jay, comment please?!
I'm no expert on welding by any means, but I'm a dab hand with a soldering gun and those bits look like they've never been near a flame in their life. How I didn't spot that the many times I've actually seen those bits in person, I'll never know.
You'd expect to see bits of weld still stuck to either the pipe or the flexi if welding had taken place and it had simply come apart under stress, but there's nothing there at all.
Weird. Or maybe not, going on previous Hass work. I can say stuff like that now I no longer own one. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
my mate theorised that they may have been sweated on, get it really hot attach and the as it cools it contracts.
which while possible seems stupid for where it goes, the whole joint is going to be under tension every time you drop the hammer.
good news is I emailed teh pics to H&S today and Ian reckons it can likely be welded.
excellent news Mark, that should save a bit. Do you still need a hand with finishing it off?
please
just need to sort out when, as soon as I've got teh exhsut welded
Just revisited the C2 flexi. Unless its welded inside at the distal ends of inner and outer flange its the same arrangement as yours Mark. Are H&S going to split the outer flange from the DP and do the same, or try to weld it around the lip of the flexi mesh? s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
(http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6373/dp3gm.jpg)
at this stage I have no idea
I'll lety you know the result
interesting guys, especially for someone who now owns their stuff s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Mark, any chance of that template for the rh brace (nice pic), my right foot has gone all light lately
no probs I've templated it, I just need to get it uploaded to scale
Nice one, have you also got a picture of the $1.50 brace the guy from spyderchat spoke of, I'd like to see that out of interest, to compare to dans £100 one:)
UI'd say they are identical Dan got fleeced on teh price though his was for both a left hand and right hand brace.
the left hand is still on your car
right just got back from H&S and teh good news is that for £20 they managed to fix it s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
the bad news is that the Hass exhaust is actually mild steel not stainless, I can't find anywhere on teh Hass website where it actually says stainless but that was certainly my expectation. s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
the humorous news was watching Ians face when he saw teh exhaust, I don't think he new wether to laugh or cry, but uiffice to say impressed he was not.
looks like a new exhaust may be in teh offing next year, but at nearly a grand including new cat, teh old cash flow just won't cut it this year.
we will have to do something together (possible discount?) I definately want something better in the exhaust department
sounds good, won't be for a while though
coouple more updates
Ste,
they fixed teh flexi by drilling several holes through teh flange that had seperated. Pushing them back together and then weldeding teh hoels and teh seam.
Steve,
Turbo template below. I've added dimensions in places to allow you to size it right
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/turbobracetemplate.jpg)
the hole on teh right with 2 circles has 2 bolts welded to it to space it sufficiently. This allows it to bolt through the mounting hole below teh pulley mount on teh block. The other 2 holes goe between teh exhaust flange (off teh turbo) and teh bolts holding it together.
Clever fix!
Looks like you're on the home leg now Mark. Go for it matey s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
thanks mate, and good luck. Will you be all done for JAE?
Quote from: "turbo steve"thanks mate, and good luck. Will you be all done for JAE?
he will be if i've got anything to do with it s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
And for anyone who is interested, the 'dollar fifty brace' for the rhs from across the pond. Just a couple of loose nuts are used as a spacer, not even welded I believe.
(http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6276/rhbrace1505if.th.jpg) (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rhbrace1505if.jpg)
more updates :-) :-) :-)
here is teh close up of teh flexi as fixed by H&S
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/fixedflexi.JPG)
I then spent an hour with teh drill and a cleaning attachement removing all of teh rust from teh exhaust.
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/cleanedexhaust.JPG)
looking much better I'm sure you will agree.
I then painted it and added some polished stainless tips (£9.99 each courtesy of ebay :-) :-) :-) )
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/paintedwithtips.JPG)
looking even better
next job is to wrap and seal, however as I didn't buy sufficient wrap I'm waiting for more to arrive tommorow to complete the job.
in teh interim I resoldered teh injector pins (2 were mullered) installed the breather filter and crankvent (see below)
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/breather.JPG)
and finally put back teh plastic cover with some stainless fasteners.
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/cover.JPG)
it's starting to resemble a car again :-) :-) :-)
jeepers Mark, at this rate i wont need to come over on the 15th!
nice job on the exhaust BTW, hat off to Ian @ H&S once again for a job well done,
I'm prototyping teh manifold heatshield we discussed at the mo
I'll bring it along on Saturday and see if it will fit teh C2 :-) :-) :-)
Looking good Mark, how much wrap do you estimate using for the system?
And what width are you using (2 inch??)
I bought 55ft of 1" and it didn't even do half
so I order 110ft of 2" that should do it :-) :-) :-)
ok manifold heatshield is now prototyped, just need the sheet ali from stu to get this done properly.
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/manifoldheatshield.JPG)
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/manifoldheatshield2.JPG)
I also just fabbed a replacement heatshield for teh coolant bottle as teh stock won't fit with teh Hass exhaust
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/coolantheatshield.JPG)
having a productive day here
car is booked into Paintec for teh 10th July to have front TTE bumper, new rear bumper, spoiler, and headlights painted.
result.
Hmm I dont want to capture the heat I want it out of the engine bay
Where did you get those fastenings for the engine cover, ive got two (nearest to the rear) missing. Also there are only holes there, where as the other pair are brass nuts on studs, Is that right??
the 2 front holes should have holes in teh cam cover into which plastic pop fasteneings originally go.
however these almost alwasy break on removal, I simply drilled out the snapped plastic, tapped the hole with an M6 tap and fastened back on withsome stainless M6 allen bolts, I got them from screwfix, though they only sell them in volume. I have spares if you need them.
the rears are studs that go through from teh cam cover.
these are also M6, I got teh nuts from Wicks, and they are a couple of quid for a pack of 10.
Cheers mate that explains everything.
Take a couple of those screw fix things to JAE, and i will give you some cash for them
Quote from: "turbo steve"Where did you get those fastenings for the engine cover, ive got two (nearest to the rear) missing.
You can thank Thor for that. s:evil: :evil: s:evil:
Exhaust actually resembles something approaching quality now Mark, nice job. s8) 8) s8) Perhaps you should give Jay a shout and see if he wants any pointers s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Yeah I know Dan, I read it in one of your old posts somewhere.....never mind s:) :) s:)
more updates
my exhaust is now all wrapped up and sealed
took over 120ft of wrap s:-( :-( s:-(
pics below
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/exhaustwrapped.jpg)
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/exhaustwrapped2.jpg)
not as pretty but shoudl keep temps down :-) :-) :-)
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: Don't do things by halfs do you Mark.
The Mummy returns s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Final leg now Mark. Go for it matey.
Is it safe to wrap a high flow Cat? I'm learning something new every day.
should be
Quote from: "markiii"should be
Guess we will find out, at least Mark is used to flaming engine bays s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I've tested the exhaust wrap for 10 minutes with a direct flame, and it refuses to errupt so I'm guessing it should cope
yeah of course just teasing it is after all Heat Wrap
my cats wrapped, Ive been driving around for five days and I have not erupted into flames yet s:) :) s:)
have you noticed it any quieter steve? it was suggested to me that heat wrap may ereduce the noise by a good 20%
Actually it sounds deeper and a tad louder, but i would not swear to it. Its def not quieter though. It is a lot cooler however, before I could hardly touch the engine compartment lid, now its only warm s8) 8) s8)
Oh dear, another molten roadster s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
(http://static.flickr.com/68/186733150_328ce35f6e.jpg)
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
needed that, cheers mate
I didn't, that was my birthday present!!! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
ooops s:? :? s:?
Well if you will try and microwave all your meals...
s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I was thinking it looked more like it'd had a heavy object on it....
Own up Dan, you sat on it, didn't you?
Now - back on topic you orrible lot s;) ;) s;)
(http://www.sage-creative.net/images/portfolio/large/dontgo/its%20alive.jpg)
About time s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
yeah thanks Stu, for yesterdays mammoth session, don't think you left till 0030
we got teh new rear bumper on, exhaust in, fabbed a completely new intake to allow use of an Apexi filter, had a nihgtmare getting teh support tool to work to download the new emanage map, upgraded to teh new MAF post turbo layout and and buttoned everything back up.
only snag was teh exhaust wrap putout so much smoke we though she was on fire at one point.
and the exhaust is still way to loud.
now if I can just get it MOTed before Friday we are sorted :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "markiii"yeah thanks Stu, for yesterdays mammoth session, don't think you left till 0030
think it was later than that, i got home just after 2, bloody knackered now but were going out on the family thing s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Quote from: "markiii"and the exhaust is still way to loud.
i dunno, the neighbours loved it when we went on the test run at midnight s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
We won't believe you till you post pics! s8) 8) s8)
pics to follow
one question I do need to solve is why it now idles at 1200rpm
pre rebuild (new map and MAF location)
it idled more or less solid at 750rpm
I left it 15 mins while mowing the front lawn this orning and while its consistent 1200rpm seems way too high.
any ideas?
Quote from: "markiii"pics to follow
one question I do need to solve is why it now idles at 1200rpm
pre rebuild (new map and MAF location)
it idled more or less solid at 750rpm
I left it 15 mins while mowing the front lawn this orning and while its consistent 1200rpm seems way too high.
any ideas?
Have you gone through the idle re-learn procedure in the BGB?
nope didn't realise there was one
thats next on teh list then
Mark, allow it to warm up (and idle high) then switch off. Leave for one minute and restart, it will drop to the usual 750 and will stay there for good. If you reset the ECU, it will do the 1200 thing again - mine did this after every reset, but I needed to do was switch off then on again when warm.
Quote from: "markiii"pics to follow
one question I do need to solve is why it now idles at 1200rpm
pre rebuild (new map and MAF location)
it idled more or less solid at 750rpm
I left it 15 mins while mowing the front lawn this orning and while its consistent 1200rpm seems way too high.
any ideas?
Simple - you probably reset the ECU. When I did this to mine after installing the new pipes, it did the same thing for about 2 days. Then all of a sudden it "learned" and all is well. This has happened each time I cleaned the maf and reset the ECU.
Glad to hear you are getting it all together. I am adding the krank vents today and finish wrapping the exhaust.
thanks guys I'll try that next
just finished installing teh Kirks mounts
following Seans install tips m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/posting.ph ... ply&t=7588 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/posting.php?mode=reply&t=7588) m
since i've got teh pit I used a piece of 2 x 4 to brace teh gearbox which made teh rear munt easy, nothing moved at all.
the front mount was a PITA, the right hand bolt not wanting to line up with the thread, took 30 mins of cursing before it finally went in.
now to see wether teh vibration is as bad as I hear it can be or as unoticable as Dan and Seans were
Good luck Mark - mine have settled down a little since install, but there's still a nice vibro-massage thing going on with the seat backs and a hideous drumming at low revs..... not to mention the need to carry spare Dev's keyhole covers s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Oh, and the most bizarre side-effect I get with the Kirks is the fuel flap popping itself open every now and then s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Apart from that they're the dog's.
well the mounts are in, and teh vibration isn't as bad as expected.
however coupled with the Nascar level exhaust it could I feel be like sitting in a tumble dryer. Compunded by teh resonance effect of teh hardtop.
however as the plus points are so good, i.e fabulously slick shifting and instant power I think they can stay for the time being. That exhaust is definately getting changed though.
a few pics
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/backtogether.jpg)
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/backtogether1.jpg)
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/backtogether2.jpg)
(http://www.mr2roc.org/Repository/misc/userpics/markiii/backtogether3.jpg)
guys went out for a quick blat last night to burn of some smoke from teh heatwrap
and I notice that the profec things I hit 8.6psi even though it's turned off and I'm at wastegate pressure.
I remember Stu revesed teh pressure valve connections on teh basis it wouldn't matter but I'm starting to think it does
any thoughts?
Pressure valve connections? Not sure what you mean by that mate...
my bad profec boost controller
perhaps you were right then Mark, i thought the profec valve didn't have an NRV in it, i thought it was a straight air switch. Can anyone confirm??
my gut says it does but my brain can't decide why at the moment
swap them around then and go for a drive, it'll prove the NRV bit
ok swapped, number plate lights are plugged in and the MOT is booked for tommorow afternoon.
wish me luck s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Good luck buddy, fingers crossed you don't need it!
2 concerns
emissions, if ti fails on that I'm buggered for JAE and airbag warning light
seems to be debatable as to wether teh latter is part of teh test or not
Airbag light - as a quick fix, cover the LED with black electrical tape...
Quote from: "Slacey"Airbag light - as a quick fix, cover the LED with black electrical tape...
Yup, it works s:) :) s:)
well we have good new, good news and bad news
well the good news is it passed it's mot s:D :D s:D
though apparently the airbags become part of teh MOT as of next week, so that was close.
Tax next and we are set for JAE s:D :D s:D
good news is that following a long run today teh idle has now sorted itself out at a rock steady 750rpm as per previously s:D :D s:D
however the boostguage is still reading odd, reckons I hit 8.1 psi today and thats nowhere near accurate s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
think I need to compare with Steves at JAE and compare the plumbing
Excellent news mate! Now all I need is for Steve's to pass his and I'll have got rid of the car for nothing! s:( :( s:( s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Damn lucky about the airbags though: I reckon it was destiny for you to get the car fixed by this week s8) 8) s8)
thanks Dan, don't know about destiny more liek team work
primarily thanks to Stu for giving up so much time to assist,
and additionally to yourself, Sean, Aaron, Lee, and Grant
and of course Adam for parts :-) :-) :-)
just done a total of what it cost to fix
Bumper and Grill £40
Release Cable £18
Welding Manifold £20
Gasket £12.70
Gasket £16.48
Paintwork £150
Total cost to get it back to pre Anglesey £257.18 thats not bad s:D :D s:D
additionals not necessary but done while it was in bits
Coating Manfiold £100
Heat Wrap £100
Paint £30
Total £230
With the site of the initial damage, and the improvements you have made since stripping her down it's a surprisingly small outlay Mark s:shock: :shock: s:shock: Good to hear you went through the MOT ok; see ya the weekend s8) 8) s8)
You'll hear him first, with that exhaust... s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Ekona"You'll hear him first, with that exhaust... s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Is it really that loud s:?: :?: s:?: s8) 8) s8)
As Mark put it, the car sounds like it belongs in NASCAR! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s8) 8) s8)
He thinks he's going to try and quieten it down, but he doesn't know yet I'm going to convince him otherwise s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "heathstimpson"Quote from: "Ekona"You'll hear him first, with that exhaust... s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Is it really that loud s:?: :?: s:?: s8) 8) s8)
lets put it this way, i was following on the test run and i couldn't hear my engine!!
biggest problem is with te hardtop on, resonance is nasty
Quote from: "markiii"biggest problem is with te hardtop on, resonance is nasty
now theres an interesting one, guess you'll leave it at home for JAE then?
Got mine MOT'd when I bought it, so I did not have to come back to that after my holiday......it passed s8) 8) s8)
Glad to hear you are up and running Mark, my exhaust is not that loud, but the wrap certainly did not make it any quieter
Quote from: "kanujunkie"Quote from: "markiii"biggest problem is with te hardtop on, resonance is nasty
now theres an interesting one, guess you'll leave it at home for JAE then?
teh car or the roof?
Mark, think you need to take a ride in mine and hear what a decent exhaust sounds like on the Hass set up.
Quote from: "TommyD"Mark, think you need to take a ride in mine and hear what a decent exhaust sounds like on the Hass set up.
I think your right
just need to rob a bank to pay fot it, actually you didn't buy 2 did you s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
s:D :D s:D s:wink: :wink: s:wink: No only the one
Mark, good to see you've got the car fixed, and look forwards to seeing it out on track again soon - £230 for the parts is very, very good!
I'll definitely be looking fowards to a nose around it this weekend to see what you've done - I'm tempted to get some exhaust wrap for mine as I've noticed the intake temps getting high in slow traffic as the exhaust is close to the intake filter.
One thing I noticed from the pics - are you really using cable ties to keep the exhaust wrap in place ...?
Quote from: "BenF"One thing I noticed from the pics - are you really using cable ties to keep the exhaust wrap in place ...?
yep but teh proper metal ones designed for teh purpose s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
H&S used locking wire on mine the other day, seems to work well plus i have a plentiful supply of it s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Not worth a new thread, and someone reading this will know the answer s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Can you re-use Nordlock washers, or will they fall apart when I take the manifold off?
Nord-locks are completley reusable, just remember to put both washers back under the nut when you refasten, as they dont work when not installed in pairs.
do make sure you inspect them well though Ste, i've had one crack already, i can feel another GB happening soon
I think thats a good idea. Be handy to have a dozen spares on the shelf.
i'll look into it then