Hi All,
I have a question relating to the timing chain tensioner, has anyone experienced failure of this item?
my reason for asking is Im convinced I have this problem, let me explain:
My other post which thanks to my dad (maxx) for the link to this forum was in regard to help about a possible engine swap for my 2000my corolla vvt-i 1.6 which I was considering changing for a 1.8 vvt-i as fitted to avensis and mr2's etc as the 1.6 had destroyed its block.
after excellent advice from this forum, decided best advice was to keep it like for like and replace it with the 1.6 vvt-i
I have now replaced the engine with a second hand item which Im considering sending back if it comes to it, as it has a very loud top end rattle, which seems to be coming from the timing chain top area.
on further inspection Im convinced the timing chain tensioner has gone past its sell by date and not allowing proper tension causing the chain to go slack which in turn is causing a rather loud rattle.
I have removed the tensioner and noticed the oil hole is blocked which im sure would cause failure of the tensioner as It wouldnt allow it to hold tension all the time. has anyone else experienced a slack chain before? was it noisy when running?
I've checked the cam lobes which are all good and cant see any signs of any other problems, that may cause this rather loud rattle.
any help much appreciated.
regards
Nick
Mine is rattling like a good un, normally coming off and going on the throttle - going to book it in to be done tomorrow - going to have the chain and tensioner done just to be sure, after 70K I think that it is prudent to have both done.
dont agree on the chain Liz, its not a rubber band type, its a metal chain thats good for 200K, a simple check is all thats required, agree on the tensioner though, think mines going as well
Thanks Stu - would save me a few pence there, mine is embarassing when driving through town, sounds like a bag of nails s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
mines getting that way as well, only looks like 3 bolts holding the tensioner on as well, i'm just worried about the power in that spring when the bolts are removed
While we are on this thread does anyone have the details or part number for the tensioner o'ring seal s:?: :?: s:?:
This page might help...
Linky (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/replacement_sm/toyota~timing_chain_tensioner~replacement.html)
$22 from the US... Linky (http://www.pagparts.com/perfpts6.asp?pprd=oemtimingbelt&mfrid=8&makeid=13)
Quote from: "kanujunkie"mines getting that way as well, only looks like 3 bolts holding the tensioner on as well, i'm just worried about the power in that spring when the bolts are removed
i changed the one on my old rover (no comments please) and getting it off was fine, replacing it, the spring was that strong that it took the strength of Thor, the god of thunder to get the belt round it.
E
Having done a quick google, the Corolla is a similar tensioner.
Similar mind you!
The pdf shows that it's a rathcet type that's spring loaded and shows someone testing the spring by pushing it in & out with their fingers!!!
So it might not be as bad as you think
The timing chain tensioner has a latch on it so it can be compressed whilst it is out of the engine (it's also not that strong - I pushed it back in with my thumb).
The only part that can wear is the slipper that sits between the tensioner and the chain - not sure what it is made of but it seems to be some sort of plastic (didnt bother changing mine as the engine has only done 9K)
Releasing the latch is fun - you have to remove the cam-cover (which if you are replacing the slipper you will have already done in order to remove the chain cover). Getting to the latch is interesting though - it's easy to see, but finding anything small enough to fit the gap but still be strong enough to flick the latch open takes some ingenuity (I assume MrT have an SST but nothing is shown in the BGB). It might be easier with the chain cover off, so remember to unlock it before you re-assemble s:wink: :wink: s:wink: )
Also when re-fitting the plunger assembly, put some grey sealant around the plate - the O-ring is not up to the job - particularly with the thinner oil and additional heat associated with turbo conversions.
HTH
By all means consider the chain follower.
However i have known the springs and mechanism of chain tensioners gradually fail. Its either a "tiring" of the spring or build up of oil deposits in the mechanism. In order of preference...
1. Remove tensioner mechanism and thoroughly clean / "service" check spring tension etc (we need a document with recommended tension).
2. Replace tensioner mechanism.
3. Replace chain follower as this is more intrusive.
thanks for the replies s:) :) s:)
I have now fitted a new chain tensioner thanks to a quick sameday order by ron brooks (mansfield) FYI the part number is T13540 0D020 retail price is £22.15 + vat
this is for the 1.6 vvt-i not sure if its the same for your 1.8's??
it is the ratchet type and is fairly easy to understand how it works, you just have to remember to push the plunger in and use the hook to keep it pressed in when you fit the tensioner in to the side of the engine, then turn the crank by hand a few degrees anti clockwise to allow the tensioner to unhook itself and then set its own tension.
the noise difference is unbeliveable the engine is so quiet now where as before it was so loud and very worrying
Nick
Glad you sorted it mate, there's nothing quite so pleasing as a quiet engine s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Everyone else, this seems like a very good price, and worth at least trying?
Quote from: "SteveJ"The timing chain tensioner has a latch on it so it can be compressed whilst it is out of the engine (it's also not that strong - I pushed it back in with my thumb).
The only part that can wear is the slipper that sits between the tensioner and the chain - not sure what it is made of but it seems to be some sort of plastic (didnt bother changing mine as the engine has only done 9K)
Releasing the latch is fun - you have to remove the cam-cover (which if you are replacing the slipper you will have already done in order to remove the chain cover). Getting to the latch is interesting though - it's easy to see, but finding anything small enough to fit the gap but still be strong enough to flick the latch open takes some ingenuity (I assume MrT have an SST but nothing is shown in the BGB). It might be easier with the chain cover off, so remember to unlock it before you re-assemble s:wink: :wink: s:wink: )
Also when re-fitting the plunger assembly, put some grey sealant around the plate - the O-ring is not up to the job - particularly with the thinner oil and additional heat associated with turbo conversions.
HTH
Cheers Steve that's why I have been trying to find out the o'ring size as Toyota now only change this not the whole tensioner on warrenty claims when you get the inevitable small oil leak. Mine has gone again so I will need to replace. I believe some use some sealant as well to try and prevent a re-occurence as it will leak in the future once changed s:? :? s:?
Quote from: "sickvvti"turn the crank by hand a few degrees anti clockwise to allow the tensioner to unhook itself and then set its own tension.
Interesting to know that - the BGB for the Roadster doesnt mention it (certainly not in the section that describes the tensioner) - that would have made my life considerably easier when I was doing my engine swap.
Quote from: "heathstimpson"Quote from: "SteveJ"Also when re-fitting the plunger assembly, put some grey sealant around the plate - the O-ring is not up to the job - particularly with the thinner oil and additional heat associated with turbo conversions.
HTH
Cheers Steve that's why I have been trying to find out the o'ring size as Toyota now only change this not the whole tensioner on warrenty claims when you get the inevitable small oil leak. Mine has gone again so I will need to replace. I believe some use some sealant as well to try and prevent a re-occurence as it will leak in the future once changed s:? :? s:?
If I remember at the weekend, I will pull the tensioner from my dead engine and measure the O-Ring for you - I expect it will be available from most engineering suppliers.
Had my tensioner fixed today - which was a really easy job seen as it turned out to be the TTE heatshield which despite looking like it was on tightly - wasn't.
Quote from: "Liz"Had my tensioner fixed today - which was a really easy job seen as it turned out to be the TTE heatshield which despite looking like it was on tightly - wasn't.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Sorry Liz s;) ;) s;)
Dont apologise, I am laughing too, a) cos I'm stupid and hadn't checked it was down properly and b) and most important - it didn't cost me anything!
In case anyone wants too know I was quoted £68 by my local toyota dealer to replace my timing chain tensioner when it was leaking oil. I thought that wasn't too bad, in the end they did it under warrenty though.
Thats a really good price - I was thinking that it was going to be in triple figures for that.
Quote from: "MR-Spyder"In case anyone wants too know I was quoted £68 by my local toyota dealer to replace my timing chain tensioner when it was leaking oil. I thought that wasn't too bad, in the end they did it under warrenty though.
I was quoted £100 on the last service and they tld me they only replace the o ring now s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
I double checked just to make sure and as I read it of the paper in front of me £68.50 all in. I not sure wether they replaced the whole unit or the O ring though.
That was Pentagon Toyota in Rotheram.
Quote from: "SteveJ"Quote from: "heathstimpson"Quote from: "SteveJ"Also when re-fitting the plunger assembly, put some grey sealant around the plate - the O-ring is not up to the job - particularly with the thinner oil and additional heat associated with turbo conversions.
HTH
Cheers Steve that's why I have been trying to find out the o'ring size as Toyota now only change this not the whole tensioner on warrenty claims when you get the inevitable small oil leak. Mine has gone again so I will need to replace. I believe some use some sealant as well to try and prevent a re-occurence as it will leak in the future once changed s:? :? s:?
If I remember at the weekend, I will pull the tensioner from my dead engine and measure the O-Ring for you - I expect it will be available from most engineering suppliers.
The O-ring is 22.4mm ID & 3.5mm thick (the grove it sits in is 22.4mm in diameter as well)