Quote from: "Slacey"Quote from: "puggman"PS Any ETA for the cut-out templates yet ?
I have reminded Phil, he will get something done soon I hope s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I got them traced out this morning, so will get them scanned and uploaded Monday. I had to do them with the bar still on the car, as I couldn't get it off (didn't have a big enough allen key at home, and they were done up tight at Markiii's), but I think they're still pretty accurate. They'll certainly give you the correct position of the cutout, but you might want to combine that with the actual shape of the cutout from the Cusco template you have.
Thanks Phil, I owe you a pint! s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
At last...
http://www.phil.dye.net/mr2/photos/CuscoFSB-cutout.png should be printed at exactly 150dpi; if you get it right, then the scale line top-right will be exactly 100mm long.
This is the layout for the passenger (for RHD) side - simply mirror for the other side. Align the circle and semi-circle over the corresponding marks on the plastic cover, and cut out the 'K' shaped section. Note that I had to mark this up with the brace still on the car, so you may want to combine the size/shape of that section with the default Cusco template, simply using this template for alignment/positioning relative to the circular marks.
You'll also need to remove a slim section of plastic right at the top of the plastic panel, over the wiper motor. I can't really make a template for that because i) it's only a slim piece to remove, and ii) I took too much off s:( :( s:( It should be pretty obvious what you need to do there when you refit the bar.
Oh, and before anyone starts cutting their plastic, caveat emptor/buyer beware/no warranty express or implied/you get what you pay for/etc, etc s8) 8) s8)
[edited to update URL]
s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown: s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown: s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Thanks from all of us who need it, Phil s:D :D s:D
what app uses .png files? - I get the open with dialog when trying to open it...
edit: ok i've got iw working with psp6 now... s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
sounds a little confusing, but i'm sure it will make more sense when actualy doing it...
Quote from: "Chris"what app uses .png files? - I get the open with dialog when trying to open it...
edit: ok i've got iw working with psp6 now... s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
IE will open them, but to be sure of printing at exactly the right size, you'll need an editing package, like PSP or PhotoShop (eg you might need to scale by 102% to get the scale line to print at the right size).
If anyone going to the Mids meet needs one of these templates, I have just printed a few off - remind me nearer the time and I'll bring some with me - I'm going to attempt mine tonight s:) :) s:)
OK, I WAS going to attempt this last night, until after I had got everything out, I realised I had left the printed templates at work s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I'll try again tonight s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Slacey"OK, I WAS going to attempt this last night, until after I had got everything out, I realised I had left the printed templates at work s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Come on sean - get with the program!!
Now that the bar has arrived I intend to fit it tomorrow night in the garage, but as I've never tinkered with suspension before, I'm looking for some advice.
1/. What are the correct bolt settings ?
2/. Should I jack each wheel off the ground before loosening the 3 bolts ?
3/. When the bolts are off, if I accidentally move the top of the strut, will the wheel geometry need re-setting........... or is the top mount rigid with the bolts loosened ?
4/. Any other advice / tips welcomed.
I know this is a simple task, but just making sure I fit it correctly after my £70 wheel geometry re-alignment.
cheers,
Puggman
Quote from: "puggman"Now that the bar has arrived I intend to fit it tomorrow night in the garage, but as I've never tinkered with suspension before, I'm looking for some advice.
1/. What are the correct bolt settings ?
2/. Should I jack each wheel off the ground before loosening the 3 bolts ?
3/. When the bolts are off, if I accidentally move the top of the strut, will the wheel geometry need re-setting........... or is the top mount rigid with the bolts loosened ?
4/. Any other advice / tips welcomed.
I know this is a simple task, but just making sure I fit it correctly after my £70 wheel geometry re-alignment.
cheers,
Puggman
Couldn't be easier my friend - there is no need to lift the wheels, just make sure you are parked on level ground - this is important!
1. Remove the plastic cover by taking out all (18 I think) of the push clips
2. Using a 12mm socket, remove all 6 nuts holding the strut (don't worry, the suspension won't fall off or move!)
3. Remove the horseshoe shaped washer from either side
4. Place the Cusco bar over the bolts, ensure it sits flat
5. Replace all 6 nuts, hand tighten
6. Once they are all in place, use a torque wrench to tighten them to 29lbs
7. Now loosen the bolts that hold the strut bar to the bracket that is now bolted to the strut tops
8. Cut the plastic cover as per Phils template (remember to trim the wiper motor cover)
9. Replace plastic cover on car (trim if necessary)
10. Replace strut bar, tighten bolts
11. Replace push clips
12. Job done! Go and appreciate the remarkable difference it has made s:D :D s:D
Got the plastic cover on today - the temlpate worked great Phil, only minor adjustments were needed.
(http://www.spydermagazine.com/files/Cusco1.jpg)
(http://www.spydermagazine.com/files/Cusco2.jpg)
(http://www.spydermagazine.com/files/Cusco3.jpg)
Fitted mine last night in about 1 1/2 hours.
Main problem was making sure the cut-outs were perfect fit, although I did cut out too much plastic at the wiper motor.
Also noticed that the torque setting of 49lbs seemed to be upto 3 times tighter than the original bolts. Not going to question Slacey, but it did seem very tight compared to the originals.
Also noticed that the passenger side washer is blocked by the bar, but solved this by moving the tubes down.
cheers,
Puggman
Quote from: "puggman"Also noticed that the torque setting of 49lbs seemed to be upto 3 times tighter than the original bolts. Not going to question Slacey, but it did seem very tight compared to the originals.
This is the figure supplied by Phil, I have also seen an article on Spydermagazine in reference to fitting the TRD rear bar, this also states 49lbs for the strut bolts, so I don't doubt it's correct.
Quote from: "puggman"Also noticed that the passenger side washer is blocked by the bar, but solved this by moving the tubes down.
Sorry Puggman, I forgot to mention that - I've been driving round without the passenger washer for three weeks, fixed it today when I replaced the cover s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Quote from: "Slacey"Quote from: "puggman"Also noticed that the torque setting of 49lbs seemed to be upto 3 times tighter than the original bolts. Not going to question Slacey, but it did seem very tight compared to the originals.
This is the figure supplied by Phil, I have also seen an article on Spydermagazine in reference to fitting the TRD rear bar, this also states 49lbs for the strut bolts, so I don't doubt it's correct.
Quote from: SlaceyI might be having a stupid moment, its been a long day i'm currently waiting for an IBM engineer to turn up with parts for one our servers, but the spydermagazine article on installing the TRD front Strut brace refers to 29 lb/ft. s:?: :?: s:?:
Found this in the Spyderchat Articles section, so I think that I will change the setting over the weekend.
Quote :-
Ok all cuts, and modifications are finally completed, let's slap that Strut brace on. I did not reinstall the washer things, I remembered seeing a few Posts that stated that they were not needed. I placed all the nuts on and hand tightened them as much as I could, then I used the ½ inch drive extender with the 12mm socket to tighten them down a wee bit more with my hands. I took the socket off of the extender and placed it on the Torque wrench. I then set the torque wrench for 20lb/ft and started with the nut closest to the spare tire compartment on the passenger side. I then did the corresponding nut on the driver side. Then I went back over to the passenger side and applied 20lb/ft of torque to the nut closets to the front end of the car. After it was done I went back over to the Driver side and did the same nut on that side. Back and forth I went until all the nuts were at 20lb/ft of torque. Please note that the spec is 29lb/ft. To be on the safe side and to help avoid applying to much torque, I usually apply about 2/3 of what spec is on all areas, and then go back and apply the spec. So after each bolt was done at 20lb/ft I then set the torque wrench for 29lb/ft. Then I proceed with the same process and applied 29lb/ft of torque to all of the nuts. I than gave the Strut brace a quick shake, to see how stiff it was. Next I snapped a few pictures, and listened to the wife say that I should of let Her do the cutting, because She would have been better at it (She did not come down from the house to check things out until I was almost done using the torque wrench).
Quote from: "Slacey"Quote from: "puggman"Also noticed that the torque setting of 49lbs seemed to be upto 3 times tighter than the original bolts. Not going to question Slacey, but it did seem very tight compared to the originals.
This is the figure supplied by Phil, I have also seen an article on Spydermagazine in reference to fitting the TRD rear bar, this also states 49lbs for the strut bolts, so I don't doubt it's correct.
Uh, I said 29 lb/ft - http://www.mr2roc.org/viewtopic.php?p=19030#19030 s:? :? s:?
Oops s:( :( s:( - my bad.... that said, I have had the bar on the car for a month now (including the day at North Weald) at 49lbs, and nothing has broken... I will change it though at the earliest oppertunity.
Sorry folks! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Install instructions amended too.
Quote from: "Slacey"If anyone going to the Mids meet needs one of these templates, I have just printed a few off - remind me nearer the time and I'll bring some with me - I'm going to attempt mine tonight s:) :) s:)
Sean. don't suppose that you have any of these left do you?? I am currently wrestling with an old torque wrench to get the bottom part to pull out to 29lb, bit of maintenance spray should sort that out, then I am going to doooooo iiiiitttt! Got a pile of ironing I should be getting on with really! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I'll have a look Liz.
Thanks Sean...well its on the car now with the girls guide to fitting...
Print out Seans instructions
Realise that you don't have to pull on the torque wrench you unscrew the bottom to the right reading! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Take plastic bit off front of car and remember that you have to push the middle bits down so that they come out properly on the clips..so far so good.
Chase Seans instructions down the road where they blew away.
Take off the nuts on top of the struts..then drop the 12mm socket down into the nappy underneath the front..
Get long impliment in order to push it out the holes on the bottom...handy long skewer thing off of BBQ does job just fine.
Drop 12mm socket on wing on car - fortunately no damage.
Fit the brace fixings on suspension mounts and do up nuts
Turn garage upside down looking for an allen key in order to tighten the brace on the mountings..job done...no plastic bit back on the front yet, but I am sure it will be ok for a while, going to take her out on some twisties now, if you don't hear from me something may of fallen off...great instructions by the way Sean!
Back in one bit and feeling proud that I done the job myself s:oops: :oops: s:oops: , didn't really get a chance to do much as I made the mistake of going out at the school run time and therefore stuck behind multitudes of 4WD crammed full of children, I can say that it feels more pointy and direct, time will tell I suppose when I have driven it over some more familiar roads and bends and see what difference it makes.
Quote from: "puggman"Fitted mine last night in about 1 1/2 hours.
Main problem was making sure the cut-outs were perfect fit, although I did cut out too much plastic at the wiper motor.
Also noticed that the torque setting of 49lbs seemed to be upto 3 times tighter than the original bolts. Not going to question Slacey, but it did seem very tight compared to the originals.
Also noticed that the passenger side washer is blocked by the bar, but solved this by moving the tubes down.
cheers,
Puggman
Urrmmm can anyone tell me what thye mean by moving the tubes down? As in closer to the hinge of the bonnet?
Sorry to Resurect an Old thread but just two questions
1) When it comes time to re tighten the bar to the fixing points after re-installing the cover should I try to tighten it to a specific pressure?
2) Has anybody any pics or hints on where to move the Window washer line I've tried it in a couple of positions and nothing works yet.
Quote from: "kj"Sorry to Resurect an Old thread but just two questions
1) When it comes time to re tighten the bar to the fixing points after re-installing the cover should I try to tighten it to a specific pressure?
Don't know if the Cusco is the same, but the torque settings for the TRD are 29 lb/ft.
Hope this helps.
Have that, No its the bolts holding the Cusco bar together the ones you need the big allan key for.
nospecific torques on those, just do them tight plus 1/4 turn. basically dont go silly on them, just make sure there secure
Sorry to be a pain, but has anyone got a copy of Phils' templates, the link doesn't seem to be working.
The guys over on SC have been very helpful...
m http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39290 (http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39290) m
Hello, looking at either Che or Cusco brace. Can't seem to get the cutting template to work in this thread? Anyone still got this handy they could upload or email me? Many thanks
Quote from: "charl1ey"Hello, looking at either Che or Cusco brace. Can't seem to get the cutting template to work in this thread? Anyone still got this handy they could upload or email me? Many thanks
Hi Alex
I've looked everywhere and I can't find it, the only thing I might be able to do is take an impression from mine, the basis of the template was the large circle which covered the suspension top.
The only other thing to do is put a request out on Spyderchat, there is a PDF doc on there but I can't get it to download it's from a 2007 thread, here's the link m http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread ... e+template (http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?21079-Help-with-templates-for-front-strut-bar.&highlight=front+top+brace+template) m
Thanks
Rob.
If you have no luck with a template, the way I installed when I used the plastics was by making a few pilot holes in the plastic to get my bearings then opened out the plastic with cutters and a file until it fitted. At least that way you won't be "out" should the template be out by a fraction. I also find it more rewarding having done it from scratch. A file also helps give a nice professional finish.
I used the 2 plastic clip holes in the top corners and the strut bolts as guide points and made a cardboard template. Once you clip this to the plastics, you can make 3 holes each side, attach the strut brace and then mark round it.
After that's cut out, its just a few trial fitment attempts and a bit of fettling to make sure nothing fouls!! Worked perfectly for my TRD.