well after a couple of months ownership and a couple of months ordering and waiting for parts i finally got enough done to deserv posting up pics.
quality is bad as im using the video call camer on my phone.
car lowered on TEIN monoflex with crap 17s just until i get my proper wheels.
(http://file012b.bebo.com/3/large/2007/08/11/11/297875192a5242919455l.jpg)
C-one type r rear brace, ERZ ebay manifold and Apexi intake
(http://file012b.bebo.com/3/large/2007/08/11/11/297875192a5242919542l.jpg)
just about see the TRD front upper brace
(http://file012b.bebo.com/3/large/2007/08/11/11/297875192a5242919419l.jpg)
Manatee front arm, bushes all gone s:) :) s:)
(http://file012b.bebo.com/3/large/2007/08/11/11/297875192a5242919578l.jpg)
rear track arms and TEIN monoflex and two's R us end links
(http://file015b.bebo.com/3/large/2007/08/11/11/297875192a5242923687l.jpg)
Very, very nice setup: I bet on a decent set of wheels and rubber that must handle beautifully. s8) 8) s8)
Quote from: "Ekona"Very, very nice setup: I bet on a decent set of wheels and rubber that must handle beautifully. s8) 8) s8)
I bet it will too; very nice job s8) 8) s8)
always a good combination lowered, 17"s, hardtop
Tee
Car's looking good. Just wondering where did you get your monoflex from and fitted as Iam getting mine done on Thursday. How much did it alter the ride ?
thats some good work there!
time and money well spent.
thanks for feedback,
i got monoflex from japan parts, but by time you pay delivery and import they work out the same cost as getting them from Tein uk.
how much did it alter the ride? well i went from standard suspension so id say it alterd the ride alot, it firm, but i like firm
i have the setting at between 12 - 15 out of possible 20, 20 being the stiffest was just to stiff for everyday use if you happend to go down a B road.
but you still get bumped around on the stiffness i have them set at.
No EDFC unit then ? Havent seen you arround before.
No, i ordered mine before Japan parts started doing the combo deal with the EDFC
no you havnt seen me around im relatively new, just got my roadster in febuary.
QuoteManatee front arm, bushes all gone s:) :) s:)
(http://file012b.bebo.com/3/large/2007/08/11/11/297875192a5242919578l.jpg)
Whats this and where is it from?!
its made by company called Manatee racing, in japan
it replaces the front track arm and all the bushes with rose joints and bearings. meaning more feeback from the steering.
its also excellent because it lets you adjust a previously unadjustable part of the cars suspension set up.
I got it from japan parts.
they also aint cheap. i had a big order with japan parts previously and had alot of (points) built up so that i was able to get 25% off the full price.
doesn't Che do them as well????
I thought he only did the rear arms.. but I could be wrong.
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"its made by company called Manatee racing, in japan
it replaces the front track arm and all the bushes with rose joints and bearings. meaning more feeback from the steering.
its also excellent because it lets you adjust a previously unadjustable part of the cars suspension set up.
I got it from japan parts.
they also aint cheap. i had a big order with japan parts previously and had alot of (points) built up so that i was able to get 25% off the full price.
So was this a special order because its not listed on there site? and where did you come across this?!
i think che only does rear arms, thats who i got them from.
Bossman you email Japan Parts, ask them to get you any part you want from Japan and they will get it.
so you could say it was special order. but it didnt take long to get here. i think 2 weeks from day i asked for it, to recieving it.
and i think i came across them while researching parts online, maybe on SC, but i also have the MR-s Hyper REV book and they are listed in it.
http://homepage2.nifty.com/manatee/pdf/MRS.PDF
Looks good,
Suprised we haven't heard of these mods just gos to show you s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"i think che only does rear arms, thats who i got them from.
Bossman you email Japan Parts, ask them to get you any part you want from Japan and they will get it.
so you could say it was special order. but it didnt take long to get here. i think 2 weeks from day i asked for it, to recieving it.
and i think i came across them while researching parts online, maybe on SC, but i also have the MR-s Hyper REV book and they are listed in it.
http://homepage2.nifty.com/manatee/pdf/MRS.PDF
Cheers MR2 super GT!
I remember seeing reference to Manatee before, like you say on SC but there doesnt seem to be any reference of it anymore!
How did you contact Japanparts because through the forums dont seem to work for me, did you go direct!
email them
i will pm you as they have a numder of reps i think.
been a long while since any real progress has been made with the car,
Im usually updating more frequently on my local forum w www.reallymeansounds.com (http://www.reallymeansounds.com) w
here is how the car is looking at the min
Reckless kit has been test fitted along with my 17 inch J-line rims.
Engine has finally been built and is getting installed this coming week, then its off to get the ECU installed.
(http://file046a.bebo.com/14/large/2008/09/06/17/297875192a8820926514l.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/side3.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/spoilerintake2.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/spoilerrear.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/intakes.jpg)
Engine pics
(http://file044b.bebo.com/10/large/2008/09/06/16/297875192a8820696476l.jpg)
(http://file044b.bebo.com/10/large/2008/09/06/16/297875192a8820696364l.jpg)
(http://file040b.bebo.com/0/large/2008/09/06/16/297875192a8820686385l.jpg)
(http://file046a.bebo.com/3/large/2008/09/06/16/297875192a8820643401l.jpg)
Looks very nice indeeds s8) 8) s8)
Looking good. Who has been doing your engine work? I presume your gonna fit the Turbo in without cutting the chassis?
Would try and sell you a big bore throttle body but see you already have one.
Well as i am in Northen Ireland I have gone to a mechanic local to me called WK Developments
He has been assembling the engine, it was another local engineering company who did the machining of my block.
Custard you have hawk eyes s:wink: :wink: s:wink: lol also you know your chassis very well... you seem to have noticed that the turbo is where there is a small support in the engine bay. this support has been cut away. later there will be a substitue support welded in a slightly different location.
Indeed I have looked at alot of options for mine. It seams you have fuller pockets. Looks like a really nice job. Are you gonna be charge cooling that or inter-cooling?
Shame you're not in England or I'd be after you old bumpers.
Engine and suspension mods look very nice, but the body kit doesn't do much for me
The front on picture of the car gives a hint at what im doing, there is a little charge cooler radiator who has found his home behind the front bumper.
I wont lie, its costing me a bomb, spiraling way past what I had budgeted s:scared: :scared: s:scared: Ive had to end up being an ebay slag and selling all my un needed earthly possesions to fit the bill.
Ive also had to spunk the money I had set aside to paint the whole thing! but I will be satisfied to drive around with a white car for a bit, people would be none the wiser that its actually ment to be black.
as for the bumpers, were you looking for facelift ones? cus im a 2002 so they are old style.
Nah I'm old school too. Mine is also black but even if you gave me yours the cost of getting them back would be more than the cost of respraying mine. I had this trouble when I came over to buy the supercharger. So have you bought the actual charge cooler yet? when you've turned the turbo around that's gonna make a lovely short inlet.
so the turbo looks like its stepped back quite a bit, does it sit behind the cross beam where the stock exhaust is or in front of it? or are you chopping that cross beam(the one with the lock on it) out all together or moving it?
Looks very nice!! Do love 'em in white!! s:) :) s:)
s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Quote from: "kanujunkie"so the turbo looks like its stepped back quite a bit, does it sit behind the cross beam where the stock exhaust is or in front of it? or are you chopping that cross beam(the one with the lock on it) out all together or moving it?
Read the thread stu. Your one question behind me.
Yes everything is purchased, just needing it all plumbed up
And yeah the inlet will be nice and short, something like Aaron's. I seen his set up its a very nice short inlet.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Quote from: "kanujunkie"so the turbo looks like its stepped back quite a bit, does it sit behind the cross beam where the stock exhaust is or in front of it? or are you chopping that cross beam(the one with the lock on it) out all together or moving it?
Read the thread stu. Your one question behind me.
noticed after, sorry Rob.
btw, isn't there going to be some serious lag issues with the length of the manifold??????
Im not entirely sure if the lenght will affect lag. what i do know is that the design of the manifold is worth 15hp alone,
the gases flow down and then because the turbo is top mounted, the hot air rises up and sucks the exhaust gases up into the turbo makeing more power than say a log style manifold or bottom mount turbo.
i love your car! How much was the kit and what wheels you running mate.
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"I'm not entirely sure if the lenght will affect lag. what i do know is that the design of the manifold is worth 15hp alone,
the gases flow down and then because the turbo is top mounted, the hot air rises up and sucks the exhaust gases up into the turbo makeing more power than say a log style manifold or bottom mount turbo.
Really? I think they're having you on there. I don't even know where to begin explaining why its rubbish so I won't bother trying. If anyone knows this is actually true though I would genuinely love an education as to why.
Not to take anything away from the car and project though, I know how the cost of these sorts of projects can spiral! I'm sure you're going to love it when its finished.
Jason
Quote from: "muffdan"Quote from: "MR2 super GT"I'm not entirely sure if the lenght will affect lag. what i do know is that the design of the manifold is worth 15hp alone,
the gases flow down and then because the turbo is top mounted, the hot air rises up and sucks the exhaust gases up into the turbo makeing more power than say a log style manifold or bottom mount turbo.
Really? I think they're having you on there. I don't even know where to begin explaining why its rubbish so I won't bother trying. If anyone knows this is actually true though I would genuinely love an education as to why.
Not to take anything away from the car and project though, I know how the cost of these sorts of projects can spiral! I'm sure you're going to love it when its finished.
Jason
Agreed, the idea that thermal convection in the manifold would have any affect on boost is just silly.
Nice project though, will be a serious bit of kit when that engine goes in!
Quote from: "muffdan"Quote from: "MR2 super GT"I'm not entirely sure if the lenght will affect lag. what i do know is that the design of the manifold is worth 15hp alone,
the gases flow down and then because the turbo is top mounted, the hot air rises up and sucks the exhaust gases up into the turbo makeing more power than say a log style manifold or bottom mount turbo.
Really? I think they're having you on there. I don't even know where to begin explaining why its rubbish so I won't bother trying. If anyone knows this is actually true though I would genuinely love an education as to why.
I'm not an expert on turbo manifolds, but sounds rubbish to me. I'd love to be proven wrong though. The part that was true was that log style manifolds do suck and the difference is easily 15hp or more. But it's the flow that matters, not hot air rising up. 2l engine without boost at 4000rpm pushes some 70 liters of air through it every second. And four times as much at 8000rpm with 15psi. There's really no time for hot air to start rising up, it just goes with the flow.
Actually the exhaust gases cool down a LOT every inch there is, so generally the turbo should be as close as possible, not further away. That's where the lag comes from with longer manifolds, cause the gases take less space when they cool down, which means the velocity will decrease before it hits the turbo. Also, front engined cars tend to have heat and fitment issues with larger turbos, if they are placed low. That's why they tend to be "up" with aftermarket manifolds.
the feedback and opinions are all good, Im no thermal dynamics expert, so any information on manifolds and gas flow is all new to me.
so I could have been told rubbish information and been none the wiser.
time will tell how much power it makes and how effective the manifold design is.
the main purpose was to get an equal length manifold
I'm no expert in turbo's but would say that i think equal length runners that direct the gas flow directly into turbo like you have must be better that forcing the gas flow round corners, but also agree that the legnth may be an issue.
One thing I will say that I'm sure that the turbo boys will agree with is that I would look into bracing the turbo to the block somehow, while also allowing it to expand with tempariture. I know many people have had issues with thin wall welded manifolds cracking due to insuficient bracing.
Like the Reckless kit mate. I'm making plans for next years car of choice at the moment, sticking with the MR2 would mean getting a widebody kit then having Paul Woods weave his magic on the engine front. Options are APR or GT300 replica, but not thought about this one. Found some picks of one in black which looks incredible. Where did you get it from? Does it fit properly or has it required some work?
Custard there is a brace which is not visible in the pictures. its supporting right below where all the runners start to come together and is attatched to the lower block.
Innocent I got the kit from Japan Parts. As for the fit, the build quality of the pieces is top quality, you get what you pay for.
the kit would just need some very fine tuning to get everything sitting like stock pannnels like linning up gaps to be equal on both sides.
I fitted the kit to the car my self it was easy, thats the great thing about these cars, all the pannels bolt off.
Any updates?
Not really s:( :( s:(
The car was away getting the Roberuta suspension cups installed and some other wiring work.
It is back at the mechanics now, things left to do are:
finish return lines for turbo
plumb the whole intake set up (air filter and charge cooler)
cut the tail pipes off and re adjust so they sit correctly
Then off to get its new ECU wired and tuned.
I hope to have it ready for Christmas s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Here is some recent pics or my fuel return line, oil lines, oil filter, oil cooler, engine actually in the car etc
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/Oilfilter.jpg?t=1227485867)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/21112008055.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/Turbo3.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/25102008038.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/turboinstall3.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/14102008034.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/21112008054.jpg)
Any updates on this mate.
Seeing as you asked. Not a lot more.
Car is away getting its new ECU installed and mapped, I went for a DTA s60 pro ECU.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/20122008061.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/20122008060.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/20122008062.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/20122008063.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/20122008065.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/20122008067.jpg)
The BOV will be re-circulating, just hadnt got the pipe work finished at time of taking the picture.
Some people say its best to have it close to the TB, it was just not that practical considering the logistics of the charger cooler etc.
Car should be back next week, then it needs a few finishing touches before it can be run in.
then ofcourse there is the re-spray s:( :( s:(
Still looking tasty. Is that a move of the coolant tank or was it just resting there?
Looks very interesting, even if the pics are a little fuzzy. Some attention to detail for sure. s8) 8) s8)
coolant has been moved to a temporary new home. not sure where it will end up.
Yeah my phone camera is only 2mp and is still awful.
I presume thats cos your intake is there and it's that massive it takes up the whole of that space?
Yes custard, the intake pipe runs along there and the coolant needs to be moved to allow air filter to sit around there.
The plan is to have it placed in the rear 1/4 pannel so that its away from all the heat and also has a big flow of air from the duct
man that is a build and a half! Love it.
Small update, no pictures or video yet.
Car has now been mapped.
On regular unleaded at 1.0 BAR it made 300hp at the flywheel which is nice.
its restricted to 200hp for the break in period. car comes back on saturdays boat so maybe have some pictures tomorrow or next week.
What colour are you painting it when its finished?
I have changed my mind 2 times, and I think the final choice will be white, keeping the carbon bits un painted.
don't have enough to get the re spray done yet so in the mean time im getting the doors and roof vynil wrapped
Quote from: "cclarke99"Engine and suspension mods look very nice, but the body kit doesn't do much for me
when done it looks tasty, here's mine
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y96/koolspyda/DWM%20Reckless/DSC_0069.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y96/koolspyda/DWM%20Reckless/DSC_0035.jpg)
keep it white (championship white or pearl). i've seen another reckless in white (japan) with varis hood (awesome).
Hi cool apple, i have been watching your thread on SC for along time, I have seen your finished spyder, its super nice s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
I think you have picked a really nice colour for the car and also the slightly different shade for the side skirts.
That car looks tops mate!, 300 at 1 bar is wicked, can't wait to see some piccys. How much did the engine rebuild ect set you back?
its cost LOTS... i dont really like saying how much ive spent. the ECU, wiring and tuning cost me £3100 alone.
you can work out the cost of all the parts on your own, labour for the build, ive actually lost track of how much its cost as its been on going for the last year... get the average cost of an engine build then add on probably another £1000 just for good measure.
im pleased with 300hp at the fly wheel but with my set up what could the engine produce safely? anyone know?
remember this is on regular unleaded NOT super. Also my wastegate is too small we found out.
to run 1.2 BAR as planned im going to need to get a larger wastegate and re-work the manifold s:| :| s:|
looks like a mental build either way mate. I basically was trying to work out how much to spend for a reliable 270. You have more than enough power and thats just on unleaded.
Loving it! Uve put so much work and money in but it has really paid off, Where abouts in antrim do u live mate Im just outside of ballyclare myself
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/21112008054.jpg)
i see you are also using this rear impact bar. because the reckless kit extends further out, I have added brackets to secure the kit at the bottom where the rear number plate sits. (as in stock bumper the lower part is also secured by bolts.)
see the extended bracket below. brackets were measured & 2 extra holes were drilled on the kit.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y96/koolspyda/DWM%20Reckless/Amuse_extendedbracket.jpg)
i reckon there could be a little vibration of the lower bumper kit if left unsecured since we are probably going much 'faster'. s8) 8) s8)
Thanks for that cool_apple !
Finally got the car running. here is some pics of how it looks at the moment
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009136.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009134.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009133.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009140.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009139.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009138.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009128.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009129.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009130.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/24052009131.jpg)
car runs nicely with 200hp. a bit guttless upto 3,000rpm. To get the best response you need to keep it around 3500rpm in what ever gear your needing.
its the first time ive drove the car with all the new handling mods - Addco sway bars, 3.0 chassis braces, C-one engine mounts and torque damper etc. the car just eats up pretty much anything the roads can give it. I never expected to have such confidence on rough B roads but he car feels so solid and responsive. I knew by the review of the braces they would be one of the most worth while mods you could and they were right.
Good to see you still alive. Looking good. I have to say, MAN THAT'S A BIG SPOILER!!!
So is it still on run in or are you out of that yet?
Looks good and I am one of the rare ones who likes the wide body kit.
What colour are you going to spray it when finished?
Yeah im still alive, just seemed like the project would never get completed. Ive only had the car back for 1 week, still running it in.
I have decided on white. I will keep the carbon parts un painted. my plan was to vynil the roof and doors white for the time being till it was ready to get painted.
the car gets a lot of compliments even with the current colour scheme. lots of people love the black on white. I just cant decide if I want to keep any of that.
You should get compliments there is some nice workmanship there and it's a great kit.
Looking forward to what figures it makes once you can open it up properly.
What boost are you running at the moment?
I'm just waiting for one of the photoshoppers on here to turn it into the blues brothers car s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"I have decided on white. I will keep the carbon parts un painted. (http://userimages01.imvu.com/productdata/images_2332362a3e4d32e8d4861ed998e21d77.gif).
Shame.
Oh well I guess it works for other cars
(http://www.bbc.co.uk/northamptonshire/asop/northampton/images/american_autos/american_cars_01_gallery_300x225.jpg)
lol nice pic of the police car. your not a fan of keeping carbon 'carbon' then ?
personally I like the contrast between the white and the carbon and in the future if you grow tired of it you can always paint it.
its better than painting it and deciding you dont like it
its running 0.5 bar at the moment. Im not sure exactly what HP it is but was told its 200hp
Looking good there , should be awesome when it's finished. Is it going for more tuning? 200bhp doesn't seem a lot for half a bar of pressure, especially with a charge cooler. I made 199bhp at 5psi with no additional cooling at all. I made 205 on a different dyno and with a bigger exhaust
Phil
XC im not sure the exact power or tune that the engine mapper put on the ECU for the break in period. It might be just to make sure I dont cook it before it beds in.
actually I just checked my boost gague, its 5 psi which works out at 0.35 Bar
looks bad ass mate. Fancy a swap for my gf and my car lol. What wheels are those.
lol Im sure she will be thrilled to hear you say that.
The wheels are J-Line custom spec
Didnt want to start a thread in the appearance section but if it warrants it then by all means one of the mods let me know.
Here is some pics of the colour scheme I think I will be sticking with. Its just white vinyl on the roof and doors, then the gel coat on the body kit.
(http://file049b.bebo.com/15/large/2009/06/23/20/297875192a11093345034l.jpg)
(http://file049b.bebo.com/15/large/2009/06/23/20/297875192a11093344992l.jpg)
As much as I love white cars and I love yours, I think it needs some darker paint, or colour.
After seeing this sablegrey I think, this car is the business. Could be the pics making it look washed out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/Alessiogallo/ThaiWDBYMRS01.jpg)
Looks sweet mate
Some pics of the engine bay finished
I wanted to wait until I got the Carbon Mods engine cover before taking some final pics. Also any eagle eyes out there may notice the 'improvised' mounting of the oil catch tank...
Its a bit rash but space to mount things has become very scarce.
I also plumbed the intake into the rear 1/4 panel so that it is away from the heat and also gets cold air through the vent in the panel
(http://file049b.bebo.com/0/large/2009/07/11/16/297875192a11205352064l.jpg)
(http://file049b.bebo.com/0/large/2009/07/11/16/297875192a11205352080l.jpg)
(http://file049b.bebo.com/0/large/2009/07/11/16/297875192a11205352157l.jpg)
(http://file049b.bebo.com/0/large/2009/07/11/16/297875192a11205352102l.jpg)
(http://file049b.bebo.com/0/large/2009/07/11/16/297875192a11205352123l.jpg)
(http://file049b.bebo.com/0/large/2009/07/11/16/297875192a11205352205l.jpg)
(http://file049b.bebo.com/0/large/2009/07/11/16/297875192a11205352258l.jpg)
(http://file047b.bebo.com/15/large/2009/07/11/19/297875192a11206303024l.jpg)
front under panel to help cooling and front end down force
(http://file047b.bebo.com/15/large/2009/07/11/19/297875192a11206302958l.jpg)
Quote from: "Ilogik"As much as I love white cars and I love yours, I think it needs some darker paint, or colour.
After seeing this sablegrey I think, this car is the business. Could be the pics making it look washed out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/Alessiogallo/ThaiWDBYMRS01.jpg)
that is sexual
personally i think theres too much going on with the car (like too many lines and edges etc.) for it to be white, i think white looks best on nice smooth lines and sleek curves, i love themr2 without bodykit in white, but i have to agree with the guys who dont think the white suits
and whatever colour you choose, dont leave the carbon bits unpainted!!! s:cry: :cry: s:cry: s:cry: :cry: s:cry: s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
I think it's totally up to you, if you like white then go with it. As for the carbon, I think showing it off as now become un cool. Was a bit fast and furious. I thimk the latest thing is to paint it but with such a thin coat of paint that you can still see the weave through it (like various supercars). Now I'm not sure how they get that effect and whether it would work on white without comming out grey bt it's definately the cool way to go.
Yeah custard I think they get they by maybe mixing the colour with the clear coat. Im a fast and furious lover so I might be behind the times with the carbon showing but I do like it personally.
When the time comes to paint it I will make a decision. by that time I will have grown tired of the bare carbon
Whatever colour it ends up, I love the work that's gone into all of it s:) :) s:) Very well done, indeed.
yep, awesome!
Update:
Since the last post, ive blown the head gasket due to corroded radiator internals.
Had to get the engine rebuilt after only completing 1000miles on the initial engine build s:( :( s:(
Since then the car has had a Koyo racing radiator installed along with new pistons and a new head gasket.
The new pistons were 82.5mm bore and the car is now a 1.96L and I have to break the engine in all over again. on the plus side the car struggles to get over 85c in water temperatrure and the oil temp is just as hard to get upto even 100c
No more new pics, but roll on the next 1000 miles...
LoL from recent posts I think modding is not all its cracked up to be.
depends on what you think modding is cracked up to be?
if you can't handle some degree of risk, leave it how teh factory intended
Quote from: "markiii"depends on what you think modding is cracked up to be?
if you can't handle some degree of risk, leave it how the factory intended
Well when I had my forged build on my mk2, i had problems, reading phil's woes and now this one, you pump so much money into a car, and end up no better off, where as you say if you had stayed to stockish modding, maybe not as many problems. Its a total gut busting feeling when you realized money is being pissed up the wall and then look at other things you can get for your money. This realization has modding just hit home with me after speaking to Matt at SP. Prime example if i had stayed stock piggy back rather than the power fc, I wouldn't of wasted so much money getting car mapped. Well maybe wouldn't of wasted as much money if i had gone to westons to start with, but you live and learn.
Also im not most mechanically minded so for me it becomes even more expensive.
right then no-one take this personally :-) :-) :-)
in my book the only benefit to modding is if you enjoy the actual doing, i.e your hands on, for me half teh fun is having it in bits and learning something (sometimes the hard way)
if your not that kind of person, if your mods are done by someone else, if the getting your hands dirty isn't teh fun bit, then why do it?
just spend teh money on a better car?
I'm with Mark on this, the biggest surprise i had when i got the 2 was how much i enjoyed working on cars again.
I end up doing bits on loads of other peoples cars either helping solve problems or adding modifications.
I'm gradually modding my car, it's doing well and not finished yet, I have definite ideas of what i want to do to it.
But I have realistic expectations what to expect from what I'm doing to it, and every result i've enjoyed so far ... well apart from the GSD3's which i'm struggling to get used to.
With all due respect If you want a certain amount of power and better handling and you don't enjoy doing most of the work yourself then just save all the money you would throw in someone elses direction doing it to your current steed and buy a car that meets your needs out of the box. That wouldn't have worked for me though as i've come to enjoy working on these cars, i guess i was disenchanted prior to 2 ownership. There are bits i just don't have the facilities or skill to do, but i've done the majority of the work.
Paying domeone to mod a car for you is like buying a factory built kitcar imho.
I do it for a hobby and to keep me occupied, i enjoy doing small bits an pieces to the car but leave the major stuff to a professional. I see my self more as the project co ordinator, i choose the set up and what parts go into the car to get the best possible combination and to suit my own taste.
I was gutted when i realised i just pissed the cost of a complete engine rebuild up the wall for the sake of a £350 radiator. At the time I didnt have the money for the radiator during the build. Also nearly every post I read about radiator said the std one was up to the job so I left it like that.
if i hadnt just moved house the car would be still off the road as I just wouldnt have been able to get a new build done off the bat. SO it is a risky and expensive hobby when you start to change so much with the car.
but then I get into the car, tighten up the harness and feel everything the car is doing and the handling is just sublime it makes everyting seem just that little be more worth while
I do certain mods myself, but I farm out most of the mods. Partly because I work 80 hours a week and haven't got the time to do it myself, partly because the money I spend on it is disposable income anyway, partly because other people can do the work much quicker than I could so my car is off the road less.
The point in modding for me is to have something fully custom that I have designed and specced, regardless of how much of the work I have done myself, the car is still a product of my mind and creativity.
I like to think about modding a car like you would a house. You add a conservatory or an extension, you buy a new kitchen, you redo your bathrooms, replace furniture, carpets, paint the walls, dig a pit in your garage or get yourself a loft conversion. Do you do all that work yourself? No, you do some of it yourself but you pay others who's trade it is to do the more complex or time consuming tasks.
You could just sell up and buy a house that already has that brand new bathroom you want, but you don't. It's not just about getting a better house or a better car, foe me, in both cases it's about creating something greater than what you started with, that is personal and unique to you, that makes you smile and feel content when you're in it.
For me, the lesser the car you can start with the better too! I love suprising the bigger fish in my girly MR2.
One day I'll buy a new car but there's no way I'm ever selling my '2 because I love it as a project I have invested a lot of time in and it's been a labour of love. It's not just as a car that I use when I need to get from A to B.
My 2p worth anyway s:D :D s:D
ok, maybe we've slipped away from the subject a bit here and i'm as much to blame as anyone.
I am actually gutted for the people who have done so much to their engines only to have them self destruct.
1. Radiator - dman who would've expected that eh?
2. Two engines from MWR and still not on the road long enough to enjoy it.
It's certainly a risky adventure, but i guess if it's what you enjoy then go have the fun, you two guys obviously accept that and live with the consequences.
Quote from: "muffdan"I do certain mods myself, but I farm out most of the mods. Partly because I work 80 hours a week and haven't got the time to do it myself, partly because the money I spend on it is disposable income anyway, partly because other people can do the work much quicker than I could so my car is off the road less.
The point in modding for me is to have something fully custom that I have designed and specced, regardless of how much of the work I have done myself, the car is still a product of my mind and creativity.
I like to think about modding a car like you would a house. You add a conservatory or an extension, you buy a new kitchen, you redo your bathrooms, replace furniture, carpets, paint the walls, dig a pit in your garage or get yourself a loft conversion. Do you do all that work yourself? No, you do some of it yourself but you pay others who's trade it is to do the more complex or time consuming tasks.
You could just sell up and buy a house that already has that brand new bathroom you want, but you don't. It's not just about getting a better house or a better car, foe me, in both cases it's about creating something greater than what you started with, that is personal and unique to you, that makes you smile and feel content when you're in it.
For me, the lesser the car you can start with the better too! I love suprising the bigger fish in my girly MR2.
One day I'll buy a new car but there's no way I'm ever selling my '2 because I love it as a project I have invested a lot of time in and it's been a labour of love. It's not just as a car that I use when I need to get from A to B.
My 2p worth anyway s:D :D s:D
That is why I pay other people to, to say modding a car should only be done if you do the work yourself is daft, The amount of bodge jobs I seen people do themselves is mental.
don;t think anyone said you should ONLY do it if you do it yourself
just that I don't see teh point
Only if you don't know what your doing.
Personally I don't like to take my car to someone else for them to bodge up. As long as you enjoy modding and are not spending beyond your means then no problem.
well long time no update so here is a pic of the dyno result and some pics of the exterior as how it will probably look once finally painted.
not disappointed with the dyno results. its mapped on regular unleaded but I do feel there should be more from the engine considering the modifications it has.
it was also running at 1.1 BAR and the wastegate spring was not stiff enough so more boost could be had with stiffer spring.
296 hp @ 7300 rpm
210 ftlbs torque @ 5500 rpm
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/1zzTurboDyno.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/12122009013.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/12122009017.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/12122009016.jpg)
That's not bad at all, and a nice rev limit there!
i LOVE YOUR wheels, great car!!
yeah like i said im not unhappy. just wondering why its not a bit higher and also cant understand the big difference between HP and Torque. I always thought the 1zz was renowned for having similar HP and Torque.
Torque one is a bit strange, I got 230 on mine. If it feels quick mate who cares s:) :) s:)
Can't see on the print out whether that's flywheel or wheel HP?
Also where is the trim for the fuel cap or doesn't that kit come with it?
Other than that looking good mate. Hope to see it in the metal some time.
The graph shows at the wheel, as there's a quote for 293bhp too, which is about right for at the fly.
If I compare the Power graph to the MWR graphs the difference is a significant. I am assuming the MWR is WHP.
I just feel the engine has a lot more to give and it has also inherited the characteristics of a Honda engine s:flame: :flame: s:flame: ... a low torque:HP ratio
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/1zzDynoCompare.jpg?t=1268161723)
The torque seems to be doing something pretty odd between 3-4000rpm there.. do you have access to the maps at all? I'd be interested to see the timing map & VVT map - and a dyno plot with AFR against it, too.
Yanks always seem to get huge figures s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Werent phillster running similar set up to you along with Jason? Also all dynos are different as people say.
In terms of the engine alone, expect the OP has a similar build to myself and Phil's. Taking into account the choice of turbo and the fact custom inlet/charge cooling/exhaust/ECU differences we're all going to have, the dyno plots are going to be very different.
@OP: Forgive me if you've already posted this, but what ECU solution are you using?
I didn't put my torque onto the Monkey Wrench graph as it doesn't even make it onto the scale. the blue line is not mine.
Im running a DTA S60 ecu with a GT30 core turbo.
and the fuel cap is not on yet as car not been painted.
What modifications are you running to the fueling? Injector size, FPR, high volume pump etc? As Aaron says, seeing the map would be good or a plot of the AFR.
its been that long ago I cant remember exactly. i think it was 630cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump with return line and stage 2 cams.
I don't have access to the maps or AFR s:? :? s:?
Sorry, I meant the torque curve in your graph, not the MWR ones immediately above my post.
You have a very strange flat spot in your torque at 3-4000rpm and then it takes off like a rocket. I'm wondering if the VVT map needs adjusting, maybe there's too much overlap in that area (although you don't seem to be blowing boost out of the exhaust, because the boost builds very smoothly on your boost curve.)
Where did you get it mapped that didn't give you an AFR plot, though? s:? :? s:?
I only picked the car up after all the work was carried out, I only had a dyno print out given to me. I was over at Triple H in Irvine.
It was my mechanics mapper of choice as he had done integra type Rs with good results. its just too expensive to get boats and other travel arrangements from across the water. I will try and find a DTA mapper in Northern Ireland for any future work.
Just tonight I had some bother with cooling!! I thought the head gasket had gone again... temp was at 120c.
no air in the system. just doesnt seem to be putting water through to the radiator. the heater was blowing cold air but it had liquid in the system and also liquid in the radiator.
then out of no where the heat would start working and temps dropped to 85c. i think i got lucky, the water system isnt getting pressurised like it would when the head gasket goes.
do you think i need to replace the thermostat?
That sounds like an air bubble somewhere to me - that's what happened to me (just the once) after I refilled the system.. The very first time I got stuck in bad traffic the temp shot up for a little while and heater stopped putting out hot air. Five minutes later it went back to normal and it's been fine ever since (presumably whatever bubble was loitering in the system shot round to the header tank where it's meant to be)..
if it wasn't cooling efficiently enough the heaters would still work all the time and not intermittently as they are now. So i think that rules out the need to an aux water pump etc.
I wish it was just an air bubble... how likely is it for a thermostat to be sticking?
It still sounds like an air bubble to me, at the time when the heater wasnt working the bubble would have been in such a position as to stop the water flowing through the heater matrix leaving the water that was trapped in there to go cold and so the heaters would blow cold even though the rest of the system was overheating, as Aaron said hopefully the bubble has now moved to the header tank and all will be well just keep your eye on it.
I was out today again and its just unpredictable, heats up then heaters get cold, then heaters come on.
If I accelerate hard and go up through the gears it overheats . if I put it into 5th an sit at 2000rpm it doesn't seem to cool down. if I go into 4th and sit with the revs a bit higher it can then sometimes start to cool the water but not always.
Just too many variables to pin point the problem on just one is tough.
Have you read this mate because it really does sound like an air lock and with the radiator in the font and the engine in the back there is a lot of pipework for the bubble to work its way through.
l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=20138&view=unread#unread (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=20138&view=unread#unread) l
Thanks E, I will probably get the system bled again.
another think that might be worth me check is the aux belt slipping on the water pump pulley. I emptied my oil catch tank the other day and it didnt go too smoothly. some gunge went down the belt side of the engine.
it all started after that... before I had emptied it, i drove the whole way from Irvine to belfast after getting it mapped with no problems what so ever.
so does that sound like a viable diagonis given the symptoms Im having? would a water pump slipping cause the heaters to blow hot and cold irregularly?
A slipping belt could cause the problem, but a big air bubble can do it too. If the bubble is big enough it can cause the water pump to stop working, cause knock and if big enough it can empty yhe header tank and get sucked back into the engine. If the bubble gets into the head, it can allow temporary overheating. When the coolant returns to the head it can boil, pressurise the system and force coolant out of the header tank. Do you get knock when it is showing high temperature?
Chris
well when temps get high I usually cruise in 5th gear or shut down on hard shoulder for a few min. don't remember feeling any knock.
The radiator was changed when I got the block re bored over 1000mile ago. would an air bubble really take that long to cause problems?
I haven't looked at belts yet but the oil catch tank spillage wouldn't really have been near enough to get on the belts so not sure that's going to be my problem solved.
What are the chances of a TRD thermostat failing after 3000 miles?
Water pump ??
its the 2zz unit... have people had problem with that in the past?
Have removed the thermostat (TRD) and car is cooling properly now. Radiator warm at both sides.
Before it was cold on the driver side. Dont think ive warpped the head by having it at 120c as the water system would be boiling straight away when I start the engine.
fingers crossed it's ok. Glad you fixed the problem.
thanks muffdan. I hope so.
just couldnt get my head round the fact the TRD unit caused the problems and only after being in the car for a few thousand miles. must have been some build up of fine dirt causing it to stick. Anti Freeze has a sweet taste to it if anyone was interested.
s:shock: :shock: s:shock: It's also.. y'know.. highly toxic s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
(Just ask the poor mouse we found in Mark's pit one morning..)
Anyway, glad you got it sorted s:) :) s:)
I didn't swallow. what I did was remove thermostat pipe, undo bolts, remove the stat.
Tested it in cup of boiling water, very slow to open and didn't look like it was opening all the way. tried it again and it didn't look like moving at all.
connected everything back up, opened heater bleed valve and radiator bleed valve and started topping up reservoir. started engine and closed valves. repeated until it was flowing coolant. massaged the pipes etc.
Thermostat pipe was warm which it hadn't been before. took car for a spin and the difference is major s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
it was a cold damp night so cooling would be bit more efficient than on a hot day but the temp actually drops if I put it into 5th and cruise. s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"I didn't swallow.
That's what
she said.
Sorry I couldn't resist..
So are you running with no thermostat now?
I knew someone had to pick up on that lol. That is right Aaron I'm running with no thermostat now.
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"I'm running with no thermostat now.
Be careful.
Thermostats are like they are, cause they are designed to create some resistance, which in turn will slow the coolant and create higher pressure between the water pump and the thermostat, which in turn will raise the boiling point, which in turn is pretty important inside the channels in engine. You often lose cooling capacity when you remove the thermostat and tend to lose power as well, or even cause knock. It's not uncommon to overheat the engine by removing the thermostat, while the temp gauge reads normal. s:? :? s:?
And you can end up with cavitation around the water pump vanes which will erode them quite quickly at high RPM.
Chris
I will keep an eye on it. if I need to up the pressure I will swap to an electric pump or ad a booster.
How could it overheat if the temperature gauge reads normal? I have my sensor on the head coolant pipe.
Quote from: "MR2 super GT"How could it overheat if the temperature gauge reads normal? I have my sensor on the head coolant pipe.
You sort of answered yourself already. Because the gauge only reads coolant temperature and doesn't know a thing about engine temperature. It's actually a very bad way to measure engine temps, but it's a cheap and ok average indicator for stock systems. Kinda like you tried to measure your body temperature by measuring the water temp on the floor when you take a shower. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
If we go into details, the lower pressure causes coolant to boil longer at hot engine spots. When that happens, you get air pockets between the hot engine parts and coolant and because air is pretty good insulator for temps, the heat stays in the engine and doesn't get into coolant. The engine stays hot, coolant doesn't get heat and the gauge is happy. Those hot spots often tend to cause knock.
Just be careful with it. s8) 8) s8)
The backs of the quench zones are classic boil up spots!
Chris
If a restriction was put on the coolant pipe just after thermostat housing that was equal to having an open thermostat that would work right?
Just take a little longer to warm up from cold start as no thermostat present. Currently the cars temp shoots up when I get over 4000 rpm, that's due to water pump cavitation right?
The key thing here is getting the temperature right. The amount of flow will need to be different for every running condition, so it is not really a good idea to run without a thermostat.
If you have forged pistons, good temperature control becomes even more critical as the temperature differences in the block can lead to poor piston fit and forged pistons suffer more than cast for this.
4000rpm sounds a bit slow for cavitation, but if the coolant is never getting warm enough to pressurise, it could be a problem. Are you sure you have got all the air out of the system?
I would advise getting a stock stat in there asap myself as running an engine with big temperature fluctuations cannot be doing it any good. The dash temp guage is pretty crude and if it is shooting up, I would worry about just how hot the engine block and head are getting.
Chris
You are not the only one, I was expecting much more from the newly overbored and built engine as well. In fact when i picked it it seemed to have lost a little power from before.
wow has it been that long. thats depressing s:-( :-( s:-(
over a year to get the new engine built...
a used block from MWR using the 79.5mm pistons this time and opting not to go with the darton sleeves.
main differences on this build:
GTK450 Turbonetics turbo
TIAL wastegate
cylinder head ported and polished with larger valves
removal of VVTI and installation of a custom made adjustable pulley in the intake cam (pic below)
(edit - the overheating was the headgasket, possibly due to 3 things, stuck thermostat, cylinder sway or insufficient clamp load on the head)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/IMG_0552.jpg)
progress is slow as molasses
New turbo and wastegate finally all installed
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/IMG_1014.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/IMG_1015.jpg)
hope to be up and running the engine in by 11th December...
Dude i'm in Dublin and when shes done i love to come and take a look so keep me posted if shes running
Just running the engine in on mineral oil for 2000miles.
here are some pics of the new seats and setup s:) :) s:)
Running Toyo 888s now
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/181a8932.jpg)
Sparco Evo Carbon in red
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/58359b91.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/c323d81e.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/10633d04.jpg)
Tial V44 wastegate
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/0b92e5de.jpg)
Larger intake piping than the last build due to bigger turbo. Pipe work goes into a BCM O.T.A. (oval trupet airbox) which is connected to a NACA duct on the rear 1/4 panel
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/ba7b10d2.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/957847fc.jpg)
Just a wee bit if work recently as I got round to fixing the panel gap between bumper and bonnet then got them properly painted. Rest of the bodywork is still just the gel coat from when the kit came out of the factory. Here are some pics from trip to Crail last month for a bit of drag racing. 4 of us drove over from Belfast
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zpsd4ad448d.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zpsf5cc588d.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zps52a1a231.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zps8cfe9522.jpg)
After months of putting other things higher on the priority list I finally got some carbon sheets at £60 a pop.
After 2 year I finally covered the eyesores that were my bare doors
Before:
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zpsf4531efa.jpg)
After:
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zps0ac9b7ba.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zpsff44c4ba.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/nickryles/null_zps0f4720b8.jpg)
Could I ask what the name of the steering wheel is and where you got it? I'm after something smaller than stock and more like my Elise's wheel.
Cheers s:) :) s:)
Ooosh
Hi stifler
It's a sparco 300
Demon Tweeks
Much obliged - thank you s:) :) s:)
Question for you. Why go from 1.96 to 1.8??
Had to.
1.96 blew head gasket possibly due to insufficient torque on the head bolts.
The block had been bored out to its limit so had to build a new one. Decided not to put the Darton sleeves in with this build
What turbo pressures were you running at the time and power output.
Not a lot. 16psi and 300hp
New build is holding up fine at 24psi
Finally got the car mapped and ruining without any issues. My Sard fuel regulator was faulty after only a few thousand miles and it was genuine! Had a melted vacuum pipe which was preventing the turbo spooling properly and a fouled up O2 sensor from running rich on the previous attempt at mapping it. The previous tuner didn't workout all the little issues and kept trying to map the car in a roundabout way. So results are 360hp @ 6200 and 310 lbft @ 5900
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/12/71bbfec91a6859acb76b630485a5f66d.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/12/96d8e438cba009b72c1bcbbbadc6298b.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/12/83c60f786449dd65bdcc176d9ccc6035.jpg)
Happy days s:) :) s:)
That'd be fun to drive then!
WOW talk about resurrection!
Either like a Phoenix from the flames or a zombie that won't die lol. Yes Chris it's a real rush every time I drive it. Also for future reference the 2 previous builds that failed could have been due to insufficient head bolt torque as
Previously mentioned or air in the charge cooler setup which was left unchecked and caused a massive spike in temperatures under boost. These are the conclusions I've come to. Problems now sorted by using clear hoses at the highest points in the charge cooler setup to make sure there is fluid in the system. Next I might get 1000cc injectors and send the turbo to Turbodynamics for upgrading
1000cc injectors?!?!?!? Holy sweet mother of chickens...
Well I'm on 630cc at the minute and they could still do. I'm running 30psi so really can't run any higher on super unleaded so turbo upgrade is only way I'm gonna get more power.
Hard times mate. Hard times s:) :) s:)
I suppose if you must increase the turbo size, what's a man to do?
Quote from: "shnazzle"Hard times mate. Hard times s:) :) s:)
I suppose if you must increase the turbo size, what's a man to do?
Get something that comes on song a bit earlier if you can.