Ok so I'm starting to to a load of mods and thought it would be best to keep it all in one place.
So a bit of background. I had a dyno run at Janspeed with just a Che manifold and a K&N filter. I got 124BHP and 113.5 Torque. A week later it turned the big 100K miles and I fitted a janspeed system. It also has TTE springs and roll bars and team dynamics wheels.
So I have 3 weekends to spend time on mods while my Mum is away.
Weekend 1
Cut bumper where it had melted from the janspeed. Removed the dash to install gauges (more about that later) and removed gearbox to install RPS flywheel and MWR/RPS clutch. First problem was that I think MWR sent me the wrong flywheel bolts as they are 5mm too long and stop the motor turning. Then (Shame) I stripped a thread for the front engine mount. Then with gearbox fitted back on it came to bleading the clutch. Lots of swearing and about 1 litre of fluid later and it still won't opperate properly.
I have installed the extended push rod and a speedsource clutch line and ACT release bearing. I have used Halfords Brake/Clutch fluid (Not sure on which Dot will check). I have tried to adjust the free play to the corect setting. At best I have got it to engage 2 but grinds in reverse which is the gear Toyota recomend to set up with.
Can anyone tell me how far the slave cylinder moves on full stroke of pedal or suggest a solution?
Really don't want to spend next weekend taking it out again
Hello anyone out there?
Am I the first to have this problem?
Well as it seams no one can help me and I won't get near the internet for the weekend, weekend 2 will probably be spent removing the clutch again to check to see if there is anything obvious.
I will also (if all goes well with the clutch) be removing the brake calipers for painting as well as a few of the rusty brackets I can remove. Test fitting the guage mount and refitting the dash. Getting new tyres and getting tyres taken off my standard rims ready for powercoat and some track tyres. And if I get all that done and still have time then its stage 1 of fitting the supercharger.
Patience Rob s:lol: :lol: s:lol: ! I'm measuring the throw of the piston for you tonight - got a friend stopping over who can stomp on the pedal while I'm under the busy end.
I tried doing it single-handed last night but wasn't quite quick enough s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Cheers mate. I know your there to help me. Just really suprised not one else was.
Will check back here later tonight then.
Quote from: "spit"Patience Rob s:lol: :lol: s:lol: ! I'm measuring the throw of the piston for you tonight - got a friend stopping over who can stomp on the pedal while I'm under the busy end.
I tried doing it single-handed last night but wasn't quite quick enough s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
You should've shouted matey, I'm only 10mins away and can usually always pop over
D
Didn't wish to disturb ... I had you down as a pre-stressed Groom awaiting the big day Danny s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Anyhoo, we're trifling in the Custard thread .... back o/t.....
Rob -
pedal movement (measured with ruler horizontally from top of footpad on the pedal): 130mm
pedal travel to the start of piston movement: 10mm and you could feel the resistance!
Piston measurements were taken from the lip of the cylinder (once the boot was removed)
Cylinder edge to piston end at rest: 22.5mm
Cylinder edge to piston end on full floored clutch: 34.0mm
Piston travel therefore: 11.5mm
Good luck s:P :P s:P s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Slave cylinder is a pig to bleed (pretty sure that's posted about somewhere - I forget if it was Mark, Stu's or Phil's car we were doing it on), ended up having to use an E-Z-bleed (pressure bleeder) to get the air out.
was mine after we did teh trd clutch line
Cheers Ste will have a measure as soon as I get back.
Cheers too Aaron. Had thought of this. Got a mate who owns the garage where I'll be getting my tyres so will ask if he's got a pressure bleeder. I have a bad feeling looking at Ste's measurements thats it's gearbox off time as I recon i was getting something close to that movement.
Ok so I'm back in Nottingham after weekend 2 and it's been a mix of good and bad.
I have realised that due to things taking alot longer than hoped I'm not gonna get everything done and have dropped doing the brakes and another couple of things that I'm keeping secret for now.
So first job trying to sort the clutch problem. I checked the movement with Ste's measurements and was getting the same travel on the slave cylinder. So I dropped the gearbox again and found nothing wrong. Refitted, blead clutch with different fluid and vacuum bleader. Was good enough to get into gear but clutch point is about 1/2" from the floor and the gearbox has become very clunky. I'm gonna contact MWR to see what they advise but at least it's drivable. Took it up the road to test it. was a mile and a half away when my mate text me to say he could still hear me (thats how load a janspeed is for you folcks that haven't heard one).
So next it was fitting the supercharger. The kit is the guinnee pig one built by TTS and fitted to Prolex-uk's car. I picked it up on my birthday after a failed atempt at picking it up before.
Fitting meant taking apart even more of my car. And drilling holes in it too. Aarg!
To make this more interesting I'm currently loading the pics taken.
Ok Some pics then
Flywheel
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314564.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167787)
Clutch
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314591.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167779)
Issue with flywheel bolts (MWR ARP one on the right)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314693.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167788)
And as a little tease on an in progress mod I've done this
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314473.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167774)
Just so I could do this
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314636.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167793)
Will be mat black once finished
So supercharger. You can all search if you want to see pics of the full kit, They are on here somewhere.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314889.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167813)
Ok SC fitted. There are a few issues I need to sort out with it. I am not happy with the way it bolts on so have some parts on order from Mr T, The pipe that is lagged need a support making as it is not possible to tighten the supercharger end enogh to get rid of the wiggle room and finally you may have noticedthe duct tape, There is a hole on the pipe which will get replaced when I can source some. Other than that lot its all good here.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314859.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167815)
The intake mounts on original fixings (with longer bolts) Had to remove the lower heat sheild. I may look at making some custom sheilds for various places later on.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314984.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167825)
The SC oil cooler. This was a pain. Had to file and enlarge the holes to get it to fit. Very snug. To fit it I had to remove the inner wheel arch. Also found the plastic inner air scoop didn't look right. In the wheel arch I found this.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314879.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167821)
Staightened it
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314824.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167823)
And everything fitted alot better. Must have had a bump to the rear wing at some point. Also took this opertunity to run various cable into the drivers side storage bin through a new hole and a gromit (gave up trying to get it through the original gromit)
Next fitted the tank and filter.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314912.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167830)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314939.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167829)
Note Innovate LC1
Then came the injectors. I know some may say that the connectors should be soldered into the loom but I couldn't bring myself to cut into a OE loom so I made some connectors
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314749.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167809)
And fitted the injectors.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13916314745.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8167811)
It seams I haven't taken a pic of the intercooler fitted (probably because the wiring is temporay and I'm too ashamed to show that.
So only one thing more to do. Fire it up. After a couple of turns it roared into life. Then we pushed it outside as it is running so rich we were dying from the fumes. I should have taken a video and will do soon but the sound is very interesting. Mainly because the fans are on constant and sound like a hovercraft. Let the PFC settle then gave that throttle a blip and we have boost.
Then stopped car to callibrate the Innovate. It was then when the injectors started to leak. And thats the situation it's currently left with. I have all the seals on order from MrT as I have refitted the injectors 4 times now and each time they leak but I can see nothing wriong with them. Frustraiting.
OK car is booked into TTS on Tuesday for a dyno.
Does anyone have a guide to installing injectors. I'm worried that just replacing the seals may not be enough. I have tried drianing the rail of fuel, drying it then pushing the injectors into the rail and then fitting this to the engine.
Anything else I should try?
All you should need to do is unbolt the rail, remove the old injectors, push the new ones in (with new O-rings - use Mr T ones, the ones I had from the injector rebuild place leaked) making sure you don't snag an O-ring and then sit the injectors down into the lower isolators and bolt the rail down.
No need to empty it, or dry it, or anything else.. Just make sure it's all properly bolted down or it'll leak like a sieve..
Ok then. Well I guess I'll have to hope that new o-rings work then as I tried a few times with the same result.
Cheers
Ok after a lot of lunchtimes spent machining, my custom guage and commander mount are almost finished.
Have yet to try them in the dash yet but it will hopefully turn this
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145771.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177465)
Into this
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145650.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177456)
On the left is the PFC commander screen (If it works) Tomorrow I will start painting them matt black so the blend in a little better
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145655.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177457)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145666.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177458)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145740.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177461)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145722.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177463)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145760.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177460)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14113145786.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8177462)
Hopefully if all goes well I will get these fitted at the weekend. If not I have a hard decision on whether to put the dash back on or not.
BTW update on the clutch. I hacve spoken to MWR and they said they didn't know there was a problem with the blot length. As for the clutch the told be to adjust the pedal.
Now I have already had a go at adjusting the pedal and believe it is currently on its maximum but will have a go again before I contact them again.
Nice work there! s8) 8) s8)
nice machineing is more to the point
Cheers Nick.
You know once I've got the guages done the next project I have is something the I think will interest you alot.
I'm all aquiver with anticipation - looking forward to it mate.
Quote from: "kanujunkie"nice machineing is more to the point
Yeah I am quite proud of it. Like one of the guys at work said its a shame to paint it, but they're just too shinny.
That does look nice s:) :) s:)
Now can you make me one of these:
m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ4UmtD15UE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ4UmtD15UE) m
s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "custardavenger"Quote from: "kanujunkie"nice machineing is more to the point
Yeah I am quite proud of it. Like one of the guys at work said its a shame to paint it, but they're just too shinny.
why not just spray it with a matt laquer then?
Quote from: "aaronjb"That does look nice s:) :) s:)
Now can you make me one of these:
m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ4UmtD15UE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ4UmtD15UE) m
s:) :) s:)
Ah Man. Thats soo cool.
Was thinking of something like that but with a screen but realise I don't have the time or knowlege to set up that kind of system (in car PC). And it won't make my car faster or handle better so will have to wait.
Quote from: "kanujunkie"Quote from: "custardavenger"Quote from: "kanujunkie"nice machineing is more to the point
Yeah I am quite proud of it. Like one of the guys at work said its a shame to paint it, but they're just too shinny.
why not just spray it with a matt laquer then?
Nah it's not quite perfect enough. To my shame I did the fixing holes on the A/F guage mount a tad deep and they just show. Should not be as noticable when black. An I like making my car more black.. Would love to get rid of more of the chrome if I could
fair do's, you know what would look good, sand blast it and then get it anodised or etched black
Do you sand blast before anodising? I know own a sand blaster so could do that myself. Not sure where to get something anodised or etched. Will save that for if it doesn't work or if I ever take the dash off again. The car has to be back on the road this weekend.
not sure tbh s:? :? s:? just thought the effect would be good, you definatley cant sand blast after thats for sure
looking good :-) :-) :-)
Weekend 3
Ok so Got back on Friday, Drove straight to Mr T and picked up injector seals. Got them fitted and no leaks this time. I'm guessing that the guy who uninstalled the kit swaped the orings for the originals.
Saturday morning I went over to see my mate Jody for some cheap Toyo's. Was there 3 hours while he tried to fit them but they just wouldn't pop onto the rim. Gonna have to speak to Demon Tweaks and see if they'll tell me how they fitted them last time.
Spent the rest of the afternoon fitting the dash
Spent Sunday wiring everything in properly
Monday. Started haveing a bad day and broke my jigsaw (Why do Bosch jigsaw not cut straight?) My Mate Lee came over with scope and we looked at comander screen. decided it would be safe to connect it and did. Woo Hoo Light and writing, But oh, wait, only half of it is working. Bugger. Checked oll the joints and even managed to remove the screen with out having to do the whole dash again but still no joy. Have decided it is either a dodgy screen, or I've knackerd the Comander. Lee has the original screen at the moment and is gonna do some research into it, but I will reconnect the old screen at some point to see what's wrong.
Comander question. Are they car specific? I think I might buy a spare.
Ok so tuesday and it's of to TTS for a Dyno. The car was driving ok and what with the mimeted infor from the comander I noticed knock got to 56. Does anyone know whats acceptable?
So three hours on the Dyno and olot of head scratching over what the various datalogit settings meant we got to some sort of state of tune.
Final run 206.5 BHP @6587 rpm and 176 Ft/lb @5420 rpm.
Its definately not a final tune and Richard thinks that with more time (and a better understanding of the Datalogit software) 220 - 225 BHP may be possible.
So on the way home it start stalling on idle and is also drinking fuel. Would do a reset on the PFC again but can't get to those functions on the comander. Looks like I'll be spending even more on tuning.
Pics and video coming soon.
Can't remember if Commanders are car specific or not - I think they might be (Nengun would be able to get you one).
On knock - it depends on the car as some sensors are more sensitive than others, but Apexi set the warning light at 60. On my car over 40 is 'getting bad' but still not audible knock (without det cans, anyway), and keeping it under 25 is pretty easy with a good tune.
Quote from: "aaronjb"Can't remember if Commanders are car specific or not - I think they might be (Nengun would be able to get you one).
knowing apexi probably, they don't seem to follow common standards between cars
Cheers aaron
knock didn't go over 30 on the dyno.
Who is this Nengun of who you speak?
m http://www.nengun.com/ (http://www.nengun.com/) m
Not the quickest supplier in the world, but reliable
In fact: m http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-commander (http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-commander) m
Wow. Not cheap are they.
The commander or Nengun? The answer is probably no to both, though s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Commanders appear on eBay from time to time for £99 (I think the newest model commander works for us - you can probably find your part number on the commander anyway), so still not cheap even that way.
Fair enough will keep my nose on ebay till I know whether mines screwed or not.
Did you recon the PFC reset will sort the tickover issue?
It may do - assuming hot idle is tuned right (took me ages to get it to idle right, and even then I gave up before it was "right" and made it idle at 1000rpm just to stop it from stalling) you might need to dump the map, reset the PFC and reload the map then re-do the idle learn process.. you really need to do that whenever you make any large map changes.
You have a datalogit, I take it?
Yeah I do. I don't think you can use it to reset though? Are you using Datalogit software with yours or Copilot? I am just looking at copilot to see if it's better.
Ok so pics of the dash
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14713304784.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8208838)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14713304712.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8208839)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14713304797.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8208840)
And a vid of the Dyno
(sorry about it being sideways, I keep doing that)
Click here to watch Supercharged-MR2-Dyno (http://media.putfile.com/Supercharged-MR2-Dyno)
Dash looks cool s:) :) s:)
And yeah - idle learn procedure is:
Fire up FC-Edit, save current map somewhere safe (very important, that bit s;) ;) s;) )
Tools->Initialise Power-FC
Ignition OFF
Ignition On
Open the map you saved
Click Write All
Click Read All and make sure nothing changes
Ignition Off
Start car (from cold)
Idle 10 mins no accessories
Idle 10 mins with heated rear screen on
Idle 10 mins with A/C and heated screen on
Stop car
Cheers Again
Another question/s you might be able to answer
The Datalogit maps ar shown rpm/Airflow. Can they be changed to rpm/TPS?
Also is there a way of highlighting you position on the map in real time?
I'm trying to work out if the Copilot software has this.
That's actually "Load" in the maps, which is a function of airflow and RPM - and no, it can't be changed.. Making it RPM/TPS would make no sense as you can end up in quite a high load cell with a relatively low throttle angle given the right circumstances.
Map trace in FC-Edit is under Window->Map Watch, then in the new window Log->Start Log and View->Map Trace. Alter what you want shown in the cells - say TPS, for example..
Copilot will also map trace, but does it in a much nicer fashion.
Horses for courses really - I like FC-Edit if I'm starting from scratch, making big global map changes (which I'll calculate with Excel), or changing stuff in the Settings tabs, but if I'm not "by hand" mapping I'll use Copilot and it's excellent autotune features to fine-tune fuelling or ignition timing.
AH. I mention it because Richard was having trouble mapping it at first as he said (I may have got this wrong) That he would normaly map with the throttle in a held position and the dyno doing a stepped rpm rise. Of course when we tried this the trace went off at a diagonal rather than along one line of cells. I'm not too sure on all of this and will have to do some studying. Why can't these things be simple?
Quick post of some Dyno runs
Standard with K&N
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/16812415068.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8309098)
Rotrex, Janspeed and RPS flywheel.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/16812415060.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8309097)
And so for an update.
I had someone point out to me that the BOV isn't actually doing anything. I adjusted it so that it started working but then it was just pouring fuel into the engine so put it back. Have contacted Richard at TTS and he says that this will not damage the rotrex so am gonna keep it like this unless it gets in the way of the Sorting out the mapping problems I have.
And so to my mapping problems.
Having still not got an invite to the datalogit forum I'm still in the dark on a few aspects of programing. I have tried Copilot but have so far not been able to get it to connect (haven't had much time to spend on this either yet). The main problems I have are fuel economy and Knock. I believe that the MAP sensor is in the wrong place and am looking at moving it to infront of the throttle body. I think that when the I am on low throttle the supercharger is viblating the air in the MAF giving a false reading and so the ECU is dumping a load more fuel in. When the BOV was working the supercharger continues to pump air through the MAF and out the BOV. This also happens at high speed. Not sure about other gears but at over 3500rpm in 5th the A/F drops to 10>.
As for the Knock I had 130 the otherday but I am not sure when it is occuring. I believe it is at high speed but untill I can get some logging sorted out I will never know for sure. It is however not something that happend very often so I'm not too worried.
Ok so latest tuning mod.
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/1821539439.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8370154)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18215394383.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8370151)
So I've been learning to tune. I was concentrating on getting my AFR's right, then decided to have a go at the knock I had noticed at high revs. Afr's are fine so retarded the ign. Helped for the lower cells but still have massive Knock at 6400/6800. Noticed the intake pipe was getting hot so am gonna leave it till after friday when the MAF is moved. I may go back to the plan of charge cooling or look at other ways to keep heat from parts I want o keep cold.
Also the ACT HD clutch turned up today so will be fitting that this weekend too as well as many other jobs.
What kind of knock levels, Rob, and what kind of intake temperatures?
Care to post a screenshot of your ignition map?
I see ~55C and the highest knock I've seen was about 40 on this current tank of fuel, previous to that it was stead at 29 (dodgy batch of fuel, it seems - but then I am only running Sainsbury 97RON!)
Will try and post one. So I beat you by lots. Saw 93!!
Dam forgot to save it give me a sec while i get it from the car.
Crikey! Then again - what do you see the rest of the time? Idle for me shows 5-7, cruising around is 10-12..
I have seen well over 100 once or twice, but it's not "real" knock - logging with Copilot and checking when it happens shows it was with zero throttle on a gearchange, so it's just 'noise', not knock..
Ok so
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18216152328.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8370209)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18216152331.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8370210)
(http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18216152360.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8370211)
As for the intake temps don't know yet. Will be able to do more with them when the MAF is in the right place.
Quote from: "aaronjb"Crikey! Then again - what do you see the rest of the time? Idle for me shows 5-7, cruising around is 10-12..
I have seen well over 100 once or twice, but it's not "real" knock - logging with Copilot and checking when it happens shows it was with zero throttle on a gearchange, so it's just 'noise', not knock..
Average knock seams to be 10 - 35 at the moment but that may not be right.
Interesting - the fuel map makes sense (it's the same direction I'm heading in, although richer with the lack of cooling), and you're not running that much more timing than me - I have 16* where you have 19* or thereabouts.. but..
What, on earth, are those four cells of 40° advance doing there? No wonder you see humungous knock! To give you an example, in the same four cells (which are at the top end of a WOT pull for me, as I suspect they are for you) I have 15° and 14°...
The 49 knock in the cell to the left of that (6000rpm, 14000 load) is probably a carry over from the cells to the right - you have to keep in mind that the PFC is actually constantly using a weighted average of the four nearest cells, but when you're logging stuff you only ever log "in" the cell (actually Copilot applies the weighted-ness and logs proportionally in the four nearest cells, but I don't believe FC-Edit does)
I was basicaly adding advance to try and get rid of knock a couplle of degrees at a time. Please tell me I'm a fool and have got it totally wrong. It worked for other cells but just couldn't get those few down.
I know what your saying about Copilot. I have had a look at it but it's got so much in it it's a bit scary.
Noticed you Igl map is different. Is that tuned by Copilot?
Quote from: "custardavenger"I was basicaly adding advance to try and get rid of knock a couplle of degrees at a time. Please tell me I'm a fool and have got it totally wrong. It worked for other cells but just couldn't get those few down.
You erm.. have it back to front s;) ;) s;) Remove advance - retard the timing - to reduce knock (at least, spark induced knock).
Copilot will auto-tune knock, by the way.. you just tell it your target and it will keep retarding until knock reaches that level.. it can even figure out what is "real" knock vs. "background noise" on your particular car (it retards the ignition till knock no longer goes down, basically).
The Igl map is the default 1ZZ map, just shifted 'up' a couple of rows because my idle is a couple of rows lower than it was with the stock MAF when NA - Copilot only works with the Ign map (and Inj & Base, naturally)
Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "custardavenger"I was basicaly adding advance to try and get rid of knock a couplle of degrees at a time. Please tell me I'm a fool and have got it totally wrong. It worked for other cells but just couldn't get those few down.
You erm.. have it back to front s;) ;) s;) Remove advance - retard the timing - to reduce knock (at least, spark induced knock).
Copilot will auto-tune knock, by the way.. you just tell it your target and it will keep retarding until knock reaches that level.. it can even figure out what is "real" knock vs. "background noise" on your particular car (it retards the ignition till knock no longer goes down, basically).
The Igl map is the default 1ZZ map, just shifted 'up' a couple of rows because my idle is a couple of rows lower than it was with the stock MAF when NA - Copilot only works with the Ign map (and Inj & Base, naturally)
Oh the shame.
Oh well. this is how you learn.
On copilot there does seam to be alot of info/settings on the setup for auto tune. I had a look at it while connected to the car but it one of the required conditions not met (can't remember which) What would you suggest I do with the various settings and how do I go about actually running it?
Ok while tuning today I belw the engine. (all my fault) Think I may have melted cyl No.2. More to come soon when I get it back to Salisbury.
Ouch, bad luck Rob.
GTSchris has about 3 engines in stock from breakers - varying mileage, he does a compression test before selling them.
Anywhere between £750 and £1500 is my guess for an engine from him.
Oh dear.. tough luck..
Nic.. cant see a 70 quid engine being very good?
edit.. darn nic went back and changed his original £70 into £750 s:( :( s:(
Thats cool. I'm hoping it's not that bad. Gonna try and rebuild it first. Maybe upgrade if I can raise the funds.
Rob, you ever thought of just getting it tuned properly somewhere instead of saving money?
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Rob, you ever thought of just getting it tuned properly somewhere instead of saving money?
lol. Where's the fun in that? It's the learning from your mistakes thats so satisfying. I'm not that bothered really. I think I have a cunning plan. Just need to get myself sorted out logisticaly.
I think you need an EGT on there Rob if you're going down this route.
Unless you've already got one in which case why were you ignring it.
Lots of "fun" now s:shock: :shock: s:shock: to get it going again, but it'll be interesting to see what's happened.
Might be fun the first time, but what about when you're on your 3rd/4th/18th engine? Seriously Rob, as was said on the last page when you were having issues get it tuned before it goes pop and takes you with it.
I can appreciate as well as anyone the trying to do it all yourself approach, but there comes a point when you really need to let an expert have a go.
Haven't got one and nowhere to put one either. Like I said it was my own fault. I should have been watching the intake temps more closely and expected the knock, and let it cool down for a while. On the plus side I've just won a charge cooler on ebay.
Quote from: "Ekona"Might be fun the first time, but what about when you're on your 3rd/4th/18th engine? Seriously Rob, as was said on the last page when you were having issues get it tuned before it goes pop and takes you with it.
I can appreciate as well as anyone the trying to do it all yourself approach, but there comes a point when you really need to let an expert have a go.
Ok the problem I have with that is. How many time do I go back and get it tuned? I had planned to get a profesional tune on it but not untill I have got the SC setup to a point where I think it's mechanicaly at it's full potential. It may go pop again after this. Who knows but thats the risk when you modify something.
I'm really not that upset about it. Of course I'm not sure how much this is gonna set me back but tuning this car has become a hobby. I get just as much enjoyment driving it as I do learning about tuning and developing it. I made a mistake. I have learnt from it. (the hard way) but now I can look forward to rebuilding it (Stronger Faster Better). It is a shame I'll miss Anglesea etc.
I'd like to take this opertunity to thank everyone who has given me advice. I do apreciate it even though it seems I'm being stubborn and ignoring it. If it wasn't for the help from you chap I would have never taken this on.
Anyway. Think I may keep the car of the road for at least a couple of months. Have along list of stuff I want to do to it so am gonna do as much at once as money will allow. List to follow.
Tough break Rob s:( :( s:(
I've plenty of useful part numbers and info to-hand if its any use to you. Shout soon before it disappears under another pile of cr@p s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Just to repeat what the above have said - tough one that Rob, I hope you manage to get it sorted soon.
The other Rob. s:D :D s:D
Well my first question is. I'm assuming that you have to take the engine out to remove the head?
If taking engine out can it be suspended buy the engine hangers and does anyone have any?
Install the No. 1 and No. 2 engine hangers in the correct
direction.
Parts No.:
No. 1 engine hanger: 12281–22021
No. 2 engine hanger: 12281–15040
Bolt: 91512–B1016
Torque: 38 N·m (387 kgf·cm, 28 ft·lbf)
Also in the engine removal it says to remove the rear suspension member. Is this reall nesssersary? I'm hoping if I remove the gearbox, manifold and anything else I can get at first then it will fit out the bottom. If I have to remove it may be worth me buying the pit jack I've been afetr for ages but it will put another month on the rebuild for me paying for it.
Plan is
Suspend engine from roof beam with a hoist (anyone know the weight of the engine), lower through engine bay into pit and bolt to engine stand, then hoist the whole lot back up again.
Will need to get hold of
Engine hangers and chains
Hoist (pos rent or borrow)
Engine stand (maybe buy from ebay)
Also looking at pistons. What is the standard compression ratio?
Sorry to hear about the engine failure Rob, hope you get it sorted without too much grief.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Will need to get hold of
Engine hangers and chains
Hoist (pos rent or borrow)
Engine stand (maybe buy from ebay)
I do have a block and tackle set - approx 1 tonne lift capacity and I think I may still have my the beam hanger for it as well. You are more than welcome to use it for as long as you like.
Rob.
Oh no! Im really sorry to hear about this. Keep your chin up mate, im sure you will have him up and running better than ever in next to no time
you might just squeeze it past teh grey crossmember but if so it will be very tight
easier to drop teh cross member, hubs and suspension as one unit, then teh engine
Quote from: "markiii"you might just squeeze it past the grey crossmember but if so it will be very tight
easier to drop the cross member, hubs and suspension as one unit, then the engine
Is that because of the intake manifold or just the sixe of the block? Was thinking I may be able to lift it forward enough to remove that?
block gets deeper as it goes upso you'll have to angle it to stand a chance of getting it past which is easier said than done
general consensus from thsoe on SC that have done a few is it's much quicker to drop teh crossmember
so I did it that way
Fair enough. Will have a look into what that entails. I guess I'll have to remove a fair amount of suspension anyway to remove the drive shafts. Hust wanted to keep the wheels on for a bit so I can roll it back out the garage. Ta Mark
just a thought because I never did this in teh end, but I was toying with a couple of boards with castors specced so they sit just under teh chassis rails
should allow you to wheel it about with no wheels or engine
Mechanics creeper and a big lump o' 2x4 would probably work.
Or our ghetto shopping trolley s;) ;) s;)
Probably wouldn't work for me mark as I would need to get it up a slope and also its tarmac so i'd need very big castors for it not to dig in. That said if I can do one for the front as well it will mean I could get all my brakes off and apart and maybe push it to the other side of the garage. Will concider it but it may not be worth it for my aplication.
I was gonna make a frame to sit under the engine so that it can be lowered onto the floor. Will maybe help anyone doing a removal without a pit.
If anyone wants something made like this while I'm on it please let me know.
Ok have bought the engine hangers. they were cheap so guessingthe arn't naything special. Again does anyone know the weight of the engine. It's so I can price hiosts.
OUCH -- I just saw this topic after searching for "Copilot" (I will be updating it soon) and noticed the "Oops Blown engine". s:o :o s:o I skimmed through and saw that Aaron (who is very good with Copilot) gave good advise. Yes, you had the timing changes backwards. One small point... Copilot will change both the IGN and IGL maps when auto tuning the timing in response to knock. Only one of them seems to be used, though. It retards both by the same amount. Copilot will only retard timing... never advance it... so it is safe to use. There are other safeguards in place, like the Min IGN and Min IGL maps (it will only retard as far as you say it can).
Quote from: "Beanie"OUCH -- I just saw this topic after searching for "Copilot" (I will be updating it soon) and noticed the "Oops Blown engine". s:o :o s:o I skimmed through and saw that Aaron (who is very good with Copilot) gave good advise. Yes, you had the timing changes backwards. One small point... Copilot will change both the IGN and IGL maps when auto tuning the timing in response to knock. Only one of them seems to be used, though. It retards both by the same amount. Copilot will only retard timing... never advance it... so it is safe to use. There are other safeguards in place, like the Min IGN and Min IGL maps (it will only retard as far as you say it can).
Cheers Beanie. Still haven't got copilot working yet as I cannot get the LC1 to talk to the laptop. As I have said before I reaslise its good software but it's just too dam complicated for me at the moment and I know where I am with FC-edit. And yes I was getting it the wrong way round. that was not the cause of my engine popping. ta for the advise anyway
Ok so time for an update me thinks.
My car is now safely tucked up in my Mum's garage awiating me getting the garage sorted out to be able to remove the engine with no hassles. I'm hoping to have it out the weekend 17th October, but before I do I want to get my inspection pit sorted out, fix a beam to lift the engine and but an engine stand and car cover. I'm guessing I may keep the car off the road for the winter as I want to get alot of stuff done and I think now is the best oportunity. So as well as getting the engine done I will hopefully
Remove and paint all the rusty brackets
Fit charge cooler rad
Make parts and work out charge cooler
Move battery (smaller one?)
Make rear crash bar
Make diffuser
Full brakes (paint calipers, fit brake lines, disks etc)
Replace lamps for LED types
Paint front grill, rocker cover etc
Play with throttle body pipework and breather systems
Wrap manifold
Make front brace (tom's copy)
Make midship brace (corky's copy but in steel)
Mend all the things that don't work.
So not much to do. lol. Best pull my finger out.
Right so after a lot of preparation of the garage I spent the weekend taking the engine out. I was amazed how well it went. First good thing was that the glue on my spoiler has given up so it can apart from the bumper. I gonna do some asking about and maybe get the bumpers sprayed.
After taking the gearbox off (I've had way to much practise at this) I disonnected the electrical loom and lowered the complete engine out the bottome of the car ( Suspension member in place!).
Engine stripped in a couple of hours. As the engine isn't as old as the car it was all in good nick. Damage was as expected, melted piston. The bore has alot of aluminium bdeposiye on it so will have to get that off before I know whether it's damaged but it looks/feels fine. There maybe an issue with the con rod as it's tight on the gudgeon pin and it's either covered in aluminium deposit or had it's coating burned off. Also I'll need to replace the big end shells as my mate had an accident with a screwdriver.
I haven't had the valves out yet but the head looks great so I'm not too worried about that.
Now I just have to decide what to replace or upgrade.
Pics to follow.
Ok got pic host sorted now so here's some of the engine coming out.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03361.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03362.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03363.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03364.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03365.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03366.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03370.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03374.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03375.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03376.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03377.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03378.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03379.jpg)
Nice pics Rob and it looked as though it went smoothly. Please watch that joist though mate, if that's all that's carrying the load. I've seen a beam fail loaded like that, so if you here any timber cracking, get out of the way. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Good garage that, by the looks of things as well, wish I had one.
Wow I want that pit.
Good luck with the rebuild mate.
Cheers guys. I do love that garage but it been a really stress sorting the pit out. Have just changed the steel work around the edge.
As for the beam Nige. It's fine as I'll only be using it for lifting small engines and the pit jack. Will never carry more than 500KG and also if you notice in one of the pics I put a prop in to support the beam.
Will post some pics of the damage later and a few oldones of the most recent intake design that I didn't get round to posting before.
Nice setup in your garage there.. loving all the space and the pit.. !! wish I had a garage like that ! s:) :) s:)
Genius.. Mark, why didn't we do it like that eh?
I was just wondering the same :-) :-) :-)
(blushes) Genius may be going a bit far. I'm just lazy and don't like to struggle.
As ever I offer the use of the pit, tools and my services to anyone in the club who needs it.
Quote from: "aaronjb"Genius.. Mark, why didn't we do it like that eh?
That's one for next time. I think Rob's pit is a little wider.
Rob, presumably you got the driveshaft out from the gearbox on the nearside okay, which made removing the box easier and hence the engine. Nice!
Quote from: "custardavenger"(blushes) Genius may be going a bit far. I'm just lazy and don't like to struggle.
As ever I offer the use of the pit, tools and my services to anyone in the club who needs it.
Very generous offer... where's Enid and his stars ? s:) :) s:)
Yeah I disconnected the nearside suspension and removed the drive shaft that side. Then suspended the engine removed gearbox and A/C pump, then it was just the one mount and the electrics to disconnect. Oh and the fuel line but I am gonna order the tool for this so then I won't need to disconnect the rail from the engine. It took about 4 hrs to strip exhaust, SC, driveshaft electrics and get to the point of lifting the gearbox off. Then had to wait for my mate to come over and we had the engine out and stripped in about 3-4 hours. Not bad going but then I've had the gearbox of a few times now, plus this time all bolts were bagged and labeled. Only thing I didn't like is that I'm used to removing the head in situ and undoing the head bolts in a controlled manner on the engine stand isn't easy. If I was doing it alot I would bolt the stand to the floor.
Quote from: "northernalex"Quote from: "custardavenger"(blushes) Genius may be going a bit far. I'm just lazy and don't like to struggle.
As ever I offer the use of the pit, tools and my services to anyone in the club who needs it.
Very generous offer... where's Enid and his stars ? s:) :) s:)
does anyone still remember them?
E
in fact well done alex,
Custard, in honour of your tenacity and determination of 'project custard', i award to thee, a coveted Golden Star !
(http://www.mingara.com.au/media/gold%20star.jpg)
Awesome - have heard of these mythical stars, but never 'seen' one awarded during my time!
Congrats custardavenger!
s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
OMG I'm so honoured. Will save the speach for later. lol
OK now I'm abale to post pics again here a few of the mod that led to me spending the day tuning and erm damaging my engine.
The original set up.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03240.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03242.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03244.jpg)
Original MAF location in intake pre Supercharger
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03246.jpg)
The modification
New MAF bracket (I later found out where to buy these. DOH!)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03236.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03237.jpg)
MAF bung
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03238.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03239.jpg)
MAF in new location post intercooler
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03287.jpg)
BOV moved
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03289.jpg)
Old MAF position plugged
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03292.jpg)
Ah meant to add that all this will be replaced very soon. Am looking into building a custom Charge Cooler but there will be more on this later.
And now for the damage s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03391.jpg)
Little spider I found when I took the head off. How did he get in?
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03387.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03388.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03389.jpg)
I didn't bother taking pics of the con rod. It was covered in moltern aluminium but this seams to clean off ok. Will need to replace the small end bearing so will concentrate on it more once I buy the parts.
The bore seems ok but will not know for sure untill I manage to get the deposit off the wall. Any recomendations on what to do this with would be great. was gonna try a light abrasive by hand. was also told by the chemist at work to try nail varnish remover (acetone) to brake it down. Will be having a go at this this weekend as once I know whether the bore will need machining I will know what I need to order. Then it's on to the head.
Why don't you take it to an engine specialist and get it hone'd and crack tested. Shouldn't cost a great deal.
Rob.
Not sure where to take it. Any suggestions? I'm not too worried about cracks. The only problem would be if the bore is damaged enough to need a re bore. If I can I would rather keep it standard get it back in then locate a spare whick I may do a proper build on. Seeing as how easy it is to remove it. If the bore is damaged then I'll be forced to change the internals which will then move it on to what can I afford.
Just a bit of history the engine is a toyota replacement with about 30K on it so it's in great condition other than the obvious.
I will definately be looking at getting the head skimmed and would be interested in recomends for that. (Mill at work not really man enough)
Quote from: "custardavenger"Not sure where to take it. Any suggestions? I'm not too worried about cracks. The only problem would be if the bore is damaged enough to need a re bore. If I can I would rather keep it standard get it back in then locate a spare whick I may do a proper build on. Seeing as how easy it is to remove it. If the bore is damaged then I'll be forced to change the internals which will then move it on to what can I afford.
Just a bit of history the engine is a toyota replacement with about 30K on it so it's in great condition other than the obvious.
I will definately be looking at getting the head skimmed and would be interested in recomends for that. (Mill at work not really man enough)
I have an uncle who as a business in Stoke which did my spit engine when I re-built it, I suppose that's to far north for you. The only other thing is to look in the Yellow pages for engine refurbers.
Rob.
Stoke on Trent? I go through there when ever I go to Manchester. Would you like to do the enquiry for me and let me know costs?
Quote from: "custardavenger"Stoke on Trent? I go through there when ever I go to Manchester. Would you like to do the enquiry for me and let me know costs?
I'll have a word on Friday for you.
Hi Rob
Just had a chat with my cousin - Sandra, no problem with honing your bores and carrying out a check to make sure it's OK , you are talking about £35 for the whole job.
Their contact details are:
A Yates & Son
Marlborough Road
Longton
Stoke on Trent
Staffs
ST3 1EE
Tel No 01782 313260
Good luck
Rob.
PS - They have one of the new valve cutting machines which gives a finish that does not require lapping afterwards - god the hours I could have saved s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
now thats a good price
I'm betting that will need more than a simple hone....
Cheers for looking into that Rob. That does sound good.
OK so I'm back in Salisbury and on the way down I stopped in at TTS to have a chat with Richard. Basicaly we were talking more about them building a charge cooler, I wanted to see if he could get hold of the cores but he doesn't think so which leaves me with the one place I've found in the US. Anyway he mentioned again that I should think about water/meth injection and it has a convincing argument. After thinking it over this maybe the way I will go short term. I'm not sure how much the engine is gonna end up costing me so I need to be clever with the little money I have.
And on to the block (gonna sort block before I even look at the head). I have had a rub at the deposited aluminium and I'm still not sure how bad things are. I plan to break down the rest of the block and bring it up with me so I can then get it looked at on that offer (Well done Rob). I really don't know where to go from there. if I can't rebuild with stock components then it seems right to build the engine properly. Then there are so many options. Richard already suggested that I should get a least a stage 1 cam to get more out of the Rotrex.
Of course now I think of it there is a third option. 2nd engine to go straight in. Was planning to get hold of a knackered engine to build and then swap in later so I could just get a runner and drop it straight in, giving me time to save and build mine, and also more cash to thet the things I want to do this winter done.
Oh well. I'll see how the block goes first.
How about a 2zz in there Rob? I know where there is a 2zz swap kit as well. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Sorry for giving you wallet wrenching ideas mate, but thought "while you are at it....."
I would! s8) 8) s8)
Cheers Nige. Mate. lol. Nah I don't want a 2zz, would have to change way to much stuff (PFC, Rotrex etc) it's just not worth it. I'm just happy trying to perfect my SC set up. If I was starting from stratch then maybe I would.
Ok so engine now it it's component parts. Just need to get it cleaned and wrapped to take back up. I'm really glad I've taken it apart as I think i would have had problems with No.1 and 4 big end bearings.
Rob, I presume this place you've recomended does full engine reconditioning? Either way I'll bring my crank up as well in case they can check that too.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Ok so engine now it it's component parts. Just need to get it cleaned and wrapped to take back up. I'm really glad I've taken it apart as I think i would have had problems with No.1 and 4 big end bearings.
Rob, I presume this place you've recomended does full engine reconditioning? Either way I'll bring my crank up as well in case they can check that too.
Yep full service, they did my Spit or at least all the machining then I put it together.
Good luck - they will look after you. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Rob.
Sweet. I'll give them a call this week and hopefully pop over on Friday. I'll be so happy when I finally get a price on the block and can start working out how much parts are gonna set me back.
Been to drop off engine today. They were helpfull. and he's gonna try and hone out the damage, If that doesn't work then he'll do a bore. Also left them the crank to polish and the damaged con rod to replave and hone the small end bearing. Just waiting to hear back on how he gets on then I can start ordering parts.
Ok been looking into other things while waiting to hear back about the block. Been thinking paint. Was gonna put an order together for various paints from VHT. Am considering painting the block. Any coments or recomendations would be great.
I'm also trying to find out what paint Team dynamics use as I fancy trying something with my wheels.
Also been reading up on Batteries and am a bit confused now. Seams some say yes and some say no. The reasons I want to change it is because of size and weight. Gonna be measuring up to see what looks best. I have two plans. One easy one hard (I like the hard one, typical). More to come.
Made a start on the manifold today. Cut off all the brackets, gonna clean the rust and maybe blast it before paint/wrap/paint. Just waiting for locking wire to turn up.
Other than that I'm close to starting production on the throttle bodies so I'm gonna have a busy winter.
Will hopefully hear about the block tomorrow so I'll then be in a stage when I can sort out parts.
I have some black VHT never used, we can give that a go??
I'll take you up on that Russ. Be good to get an idea of finish.
Update.
Ok so engine need a rebore. Been pricing up everything and its getting expensive. My original plan was to throw the engine back in as stock, get another engine and build it big bore with performance components then swap it in later. Now I've been looking at prices I need to make a desicion on whether to buy another engine now and put that straight in. Would mean I would save on all the parts that would need replacing on taking an engine apart. Gaskets bolts etc. Having now contacted partfinder it seems £750 to 900 + vat for an engine. While to put mine back in, probably £800.
Gonna see what all the offers are on engines. One place sounded really good (included full intake) and had two engines but would have to try and haggle them down.
Opinions please.
leftfield idea but, a complete built stage 4 race unit from Monkeywrench isn;t hideously expensive if your going there ultmately anyway
depends if teh DIY route is teh fun or not
Hmm. Can't see the Stage 4 on their site. Can see a built block $3975 (+ shipping and import) Then it's a case of adding the other parts you want. Probably gonna be too expensive, and I quite like the idea of DIYing it. Good call though.
Boring & sleeving the block will be super-expensive. Better to go +0.5mm, get matching Wiseco pistons & Crower rods.
Use the money you were going to put into a 82mm sleeving job to get the head ported & change to Supertech valves with Crower retainers & springs.
Fit Stage-I cams to get decent gains whilst keeping it streetable.
I would tend to stick to 10.5:1 or 9.5:1 CR so you have some torque off-boost.
Sounds like a fun (expensive) project....
If you end up going for Wiseco pistons then let me know. We may be able to arrange a small GB to get a better price as I am looking for a set +0.5mm 12.5:1 CR myself...
Quote from: "sjspitz"Boring & sleeving the block will be super-expensive. Better to go +0.5mm, get matching Wiseco pistons & Crower rods.
Use the money you were going to put into a 82mm sleeving job to get the head ported & change to Supertech valves with Crower retainers & springs.
Fit Stage-I cams to get decent gains whilst keeping it streetable.
I would tend to stick to 10.5:1 or 9.5:1 CR so you have some torque off-boost.
Sounds like a fun (expensive) project....
If you end up going for Wiseco pistons then let me know. We may be able to arrange a small GB to get a better price as I am looking for a set +0.5mm 12.5:1 CR myself...
Cheers. Have to say I'm thinking your right the more threads I read though need to find some more info on Wiseco pistons as I've had very mixed reviews. I definately want to keep it stock compression to leave me the room to go mad and buy a C30-94 Rotrex (I wish)
Maybe a bit of cash bit will be building it slowly over the year to put in next winter (unless I can afford it sooner)
I was gonna do an update at the weekend but I'll do it now. I should be picking up a 2005 18K engine on friday from Leeds. aven't actually paid yet as I want to give it a look over, so more details when it's an actual sale. This should allow me to concentrate on the other winter mods and get the SC kit really good.
Sounds good Rob, some sound reasoning there. Finding this thread very interesting.
If you go for a C30-94, let me know, it might be worth looking into a gb of some sort.
Well I asked Richard a while back and I believe they used to be about £1000. but with the pound as it is i have no idea now.
Plan would be to get mod done on intake and fit/build charge cooler. Then a new exhaust manifold to give some more clearance and then maybe a 94 rotrex. so quite a way to go and also alot of money. Would probably want to get my kit good enough to sell on to then help fund new rotrex. That said I need to do some suspension work in there too. Oh and buy a house.
Nige. Have you got a tunable ECU or is it stock for that engine. Your's would be a killer with a rotrex.
Its a long term project Rob, and would need a Link G4 or similar, plus mapping and a few bits also. Like you though mate, I have other bits to sort first.
Right so I'm not a happy bunny. Was all set to drive up to Leeds and pick up the new engine when i look and I've go a missed call from the seller. Rang back and couldn't get to speak to the guy I need to but the arse I spoke said that the Engine had Been sent out that morning fo compression testing and had failed!. Why hadn't it been tested like the said it had. more like they sold it to someone else for more money. W#@$#rs.
So I'm back on the hunt. Have another one in Sheffield which is in the car running. but he won't shift on the price or throw in any ancilleries.
Watch this space for more bad news I'm guessing. s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Hang in there mate, it will be worth it when you whiz along with that Rotrex singing away behind you on that deserted country road. s8) 8) s8)
Yeah I know Nige. I guess I'm just down as it feels like I'm not doing anything on it being stuck up in Nottingham working all the over time I can. And was looking forward to going down this weekend to put it in the garrage and try a couple of bits I've made on it. Shall be in work instead. Maybe I'll get on the lathe ad do a Throotle body to make me feel better s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Hey Rob that sux, why cant these people be honest!!
Was even gonna get my hands dirty and help you out this weekend! oh well s:) :) s:)
Don't worry Russ as soon as I have something dirty to do I'll call for the use of your hands. s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I'll find an engine from somewhere. Gonna see the sheffield one on Friday if everything goes ahead.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Don't worry Russ as soon as I have something dirty to do I'll call for the use of your mind.
fixed for you :-) :-) :-)
Impressive project Rob!! s:) :) s:)
I think you are going to have great things when it's completed!!! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Sorry to read about the motor though,hope you find another one soon!
Chris
Quote from: "Christopherathens"Impressive project Rob!! s:) :) s:)
I think you are going to have great things when it's completed!!! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Sorry to read about the motor though,hope you find another one soon!
Chris
Cheers Chris.
I'm learning the hard way s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Completed. Now thats a word that I will probably never say about my car. I have lots of ideas, some for very exciting things that have not been done yet. Watch this space.
So anyway, been meaning to ask you. That kit you posted a pic of. Did you buy it as a kit? Or did you get the list of parts and find your own stuff?
Also the charge cooler is different orientation to the USA boys. Is that to do with the 2zz?
Quote from: "custardavenger"Quote from: "Christopherathens"Impressive project Rob!! s:) :) s:)
I think you are going to have great things when it's completed!!! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Sorry to read about the motor though,hope you find another one soon!
Chris
Cheers Chris.
I'm learning the hard way s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Completed. Now thats a word that I will probably never say about my car. I have lots of ideas, some for very exciting things that have not been done yet. Watch this space.
So anyway, been meaning to ask you. That kit you posted a pic of. Did you buy it as a kit? Or did you get the list of parts and find your own stuff?
Also the charge cooler is different orientation to the USA boys. Is that to do with the 2zz?
Learning the hard way makes success sweeter Rob! s:) :) s:)
Just by looking at the things you made i am sure it will be completed soon!! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
About the Rotrex kit,it was one of the last kits that WEB3.0 sold.It has everything that you need except fuel management(i already have the PFC) and monitoring equipment..
About the chargecooler,you are right about the different orientation.That was just a mistake that SILICON INTAKES did and i am expecting my new chargecooler soon (inlet-outlet on the same side).
Let me just point out that you can buy a whole chargecooler setup(heat exchanger front,Bosch pump,Chargecooler unit) with just 500$.
Once i begin the install(January),i will surely make a topic here with many pictures as we(me and my mechanic) go along..
Looking forward seeing your work!!
s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Hmm. Go on then where do you get the charge cooler kit from? I don't actually need the front heat exchanger (am going metro) just want a bosch pump and a charge cooler, Maybe a header tank though I might go custom as i'm running out of room in the engine bay. Wasn't sure about Silicone intakes charge coolers. Bought one from ebay (the size larger than the one your waiting for. Too big, Doh!) but it's really heavy! I guess I'd want the Type 20 but need to have a proper measure up. I know it would be much cheaper than doing the custom job, Unless s:idea: :idea: s:idea: I buy one, rip it apart and use the core for a custom one.
The other thing I'm not sure about is do I change the MAF pipe size again? I reduced it back to stock from oversized but the plan on the new pipework is to build it as if I was running a C30-94 so don't know whether to go 3". Not a problem yet but is another one of those things on my mind. s8) 8) s8)
Rob, my mate is coming from LA to Oxford in Decmeber, not sure if this will help with shipping costs??
Are you sure he'd be happy to bring something? I have actually just e-mailed silicone intakes to find out the weight. Just a shame we're not getting the same value buying from the US.
OK seams I have a Charge Cooler desision to make.
Either
m http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_ ... dea3654c6e (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=7&products_id=220&osCsid=2f2a3d8080997f448bbeaedea3654c6e) m
or
m http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_ ... dea3654c6e (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=7&products_id=219&osCsid=2f2a3d8080997f448bbeaedea3654c6e) m
I can't help but want the larger core but think I may have an issue with the length anyway. Also the SC output is 50mm O/D no matter which model. so I'm thinking run 2.5 all the way to the TB. This keeps the MAF in a stock ish size (same as current), means that there is no change in pipe size between CC and TB so the flow through the MAF should be better and that piece of pipe shorter. As I'll be running water injection as well I should have plenty of cooling should I go for the big upgrade. Still I hope I can get the small one in and why the hell isn't it cheaper. s:evil: :evil: s:evil:
Thats said the core is quite a bit bigger on the larger one and if I'm getting the pipes welded to the CC anyway I may as well go the whole hog. surely an extra 1" won't be a problem?
Arrg!!
Looks like a goer on the shipping to LA and he can bring it over end of Dec.
Did you get my text about the extra stuff?
Ok latest engine update.
I still don't have one.
Was really unhappy with the one in sheffield. They had cut it out of the car and btoke lots of bolt on bit I would have wanted and was covered in oil and very rusty for a 2005. Have decided to leave buying an engine till I'm actually ready to put it in so if I get a warenty then it won't run out before I try the engine. Will be also asking a local scrap ayrd if they can get cars to order and I can strip it out myself.
Other news, Charge cooler and pump ordered. these won't get fitted for a while as I can't afford pipework yet.
Happy new year dear readers
Not much to tell yet but should get exciting soon. I have been doing the manifold at work and am half way through.
Here is how it was, A little rusty and not looking very nice.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03393.jpg)
Heat shield lugs removed and sand blasted.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03430.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03432.jpg)
A coat of DEI high temp paint.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03434.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03435.jpg)
Hopefully get it wrapped this week.
Ok a little more time spent cursing and swearing and the manifold is almost there. I started lagging and securing it with locking wire, then one of the guys at work produced some stainless steel tie wraps which were much better. I did try wrapping it wet but then it just started to fall apart. One little piece is wet though so will have to wait for the top coat of paint. Pretty happy with it but not sure whether it will hold to gether as I had to cut holes for the O2 sensors.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03436.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03438.jpg)
Nice and neat Rob, that should do the trick. s:) :) s:)
Luverly.
Is there enough of a post on those O2 bungs to get a couple more stainless ties on?
Not really. I tried to wrap the cut bit a bit looser than the rest and get ties before and after it (have added the one missing in the pic) I'm hoping that once its had a few top coats of paint that will stop it coming apart. If it does I'll have learnt my lesson and have to do it again in 25mm wrap.
Looks good Rob, like a little winter jacket for your exhaust
Update time again and quite a bit has happened.
I now have an engine. Not what I was hoping for but was a good deal. I have compression tested it and it was OK, I plan to remove the sump and check the rod bearings and also pop the cam cover and make sure everything is good in there too. Then it's a clean up and a prep for going into the car.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03450.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03451.jpg)
As well as that thanks to two very kind people I have some lovely bits from the USA
An AEM water injection kit, Currently working on fitting the nozzel into my intake pipe and trying to work on a location for a tank (running out of space)
and this *Bling*
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03452.jpg)
A charge cooler. God knows how I'm gonna fit it in but I will. It won't be properly fitted until the water injection is up and running but I will fit the header tank and rad first.
So at the moment I'm working on the Exhaust, polish tips and maybe wrap a short section, Machining all the parts needed for the Water tank and the header tank. Sorting out all the electrics, and looking into the engine breather pipework/catch can (thanks to the guys at the Fancy a cuppa meet for showing me their solutions)
Spend for next month will be parts needed to fit the engine (Oil, gaskets etc), an odessy battery so I can get the tray made and some paint.
Will go into more details on all these developements soon.
Glad to see things coming together Rob. Are you sure you'll need the water injection if you have a charge cooler?
Plan is to go with it on the current set up, then add CC. That way if I want to take the next step and go for the bigger Rotrex my cooling should be more than good enough. I've also read lots of other good reasons to add it but will see if they are true when it's on.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Plan is to go with it on the current set up, then add CC. That way if I want to take the next step and go for the bigger Rotrex my cooling should be more than good enough. I've also read lots of other good reasons to add it but will see if they are true when it's on.
Added cooling is always a better idea Rob!!I am with you. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
About the chargecooler setup,what do you have in mind?If i can help you with anything let me know!
Quote from: "Christopherathens"Quote from: "custardavenger"Plan is to go with it on the current set up, then add CC. That way if I want to take the next step and go for the bigger Rotrex my cooling should be more than good enough. I've also read lots of other good reasons to add it but will see if they are true when it's on.
Added cooling is always a better idea Rob!!I am with you. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
About the chargecooler setup,what do you have in mind?If i can help you with anything let me know!
Cheers for that
Basic system will be bosch pump, metro rad up front and a custom header tank behind the battery with the CC next to the battery. The CC inlets are too big so they will be cut off and a custom pipe welded on to go where needed. I do need to find a way of controlling the air flow out of the CC into the MAF cos it's gonna be a very short pipe. All intake pipework will be 2.5" and be atached to the engine so it should not need expansion joints. Also I'm looking at putting self sealing couplings on the water lines so that the CC can be removed without draining the system. Anyway as I say the I'll fit the rad, pump and tank now, but the CC won't be in till mch later in the year (will need to save for the pipework)
Time for a bit of an update.
Engine is ready to go in next time I go down. Had a little trouble to identify all the cut pipes. I've had the RC and sump off and eveything looks good so fingers crossed. On thing I am looking into is getting the service tol to disconnect the fuel rail as this would make putting it in much easier (especially seeing as I now know about removing the loom)
Been fitting the water injector into the intake pip, (Almost done pics soon) Still struggling on where/how to mount the tank and pump. I'm thinking that the best place is behind one corner of the rear bumper but that means I'll have to wait till I can get a tank made. It's either than or I get very lucky looking for a washer tank from another vehicle.
I have ordered a non return valve for the RC breather. I'm going to block the TB breather, Put the valve in the line to the RC and the other RC connection to a catch can.
Also pulled the front end off to look at fitting the Rad and pump. (Hmm bit rusty). I have also started ordering LED lamps to save the usual problems at MOT time.
Still lots to do then and next weekend is going to be a big one. as Once the engine is i'n I'll be removing the brakes and hopefully tacking up the braces.
Just thought I'd mention that I believe the volume of water in a Charge cooler setup can greatly affect the efficiency of the system - when sorting out your water tank and placement of it I'd keep it in mind that you really want a large volume of water (but don't want weight hanging out the back of the car beyond the axle line..).
There's a link online where a guy tested the effects of different volumes of water in a CC system and found that something like beyond 10 litres added little benefit but each litre to that point was worth having. I'll hunt around and see if I can find it (obviously engine/turbo/boost e.t.c will affect what you need but I doubt a 1 litre washer bottle will be enough)
Cheers for the input on that. The tank I was concidering using a washer bottle for would be for the water injection system. Which would Idealy be a gallon or more. As for the CC tank my plan is to build a new battery tray to take a slightly smaller and slimer battery and also the CC tank. I'm not sure what volume I'll manage to achieve but it will be as large as I can fit in. I have lost some system volume by reducing the pipe size but I'm sure it's not enough to make a detrimental effect. I'll have a search and see if I can find the article you mentioned though as it sounds like interesting reading
This is the link i was thinking of, it's been a while since I read it and don't think it says exactly what I thought it did, but there's some useful data there so maybe of some use to you.
m http://www.mez.co.uk/turbo13.html (http://www.mez.co.uk/turbo13.html) m
Oh yeah I've seen that site. Used that for pump comparison. He's really gone deep into charge cooling.
give me some of your skills, wish I could do this sort of stuff.
Been busy busy busy. On the major rush to get back on the road for ding day. Some things from the list will have to wait and my main focus is on engine and bracing. Got lots of stuff part done. I have anon return valve for my breather and will make the catch can tomorrow, I will be changing the valve for the size bigger later on.
Still looking for an easy way to trim the kirks to size. going to try the lathe but don't think it will work.
The stepped pipe adaptors truned up today and they are ok but think I may make some propper ones (perfectionist I know)
Only other job I've finished is the water injection nozzle. I have mounted it in position of the redundant fuel injector.
With injector
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03453.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03455.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03459.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03463.jpg)
Have got lots planned for this weekend.
Engine etc in, Tack up crash bar, Remove calipers, try cleaning the roof etc etc. As well as Russ is getting a service
Also I've got involved in a side project that has made me take Thursday off, but thats something I'l be sharing later.
Wow, long weekend. So I got the engine in went fairly well. Started but won't tick over. Checked the map was still correct and it is and I guess I need to to a reset on the PFC but don't think that is the problem. It's probably either :-
Idle air valve - I changed the TB for a big bore and rather than swap my idle air valve and use one from another TB, Need to check its working properly.
Plugs - Using the same plugs, includidn the one that got oiled so will be purchasing some more.
Coil packs - Have fitted the ones that came with the engine. They were ok when I ran the engine but I can always fit my originals.
Other than that I'm not sure what else it could be. Will be down again weekend after next to try and get that sorted. I just ran out of time to try anything else.
I'll also need to pull the ABS fuse as I have removed the brake calipers to get them powder coated. I'm not too sure what to do with the brakes yet. Rear disks are a little on the rusty side.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03475.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03476.jpg)
Currently brake wise I have Bremtech discs with mintex extreme pads on the front. Mintex have stopped doing the extreme pad so I'm thinking of trying EBC yellow stuff pads all round. Just need to decide on whether to go for the Bremtech rear discs. Or replace the whole lot. I was hoping to get the EBC Ultimax Blackdash discs but they don't do them for the roadster. I don't really like the dimples in the turbo disks but then they are cheap and come coated. I have found a place that will zinc discs but it's all down to what I can get done in time. Need to make the desision but Wednesday.
And lastly a little teaser on my rear beam project.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03476.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03466.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03467.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03474.jpg)
I have made two. Just need to drill for bumper clips, weld in two uprights to take the number plate and fix on an exhaust bracket. At the moment it weighs slightly more than the stock pre 03 beam but is stiff and is gonna be great for airflow.
So still lots to do. I have a rush to get everything ready for powder coat, Need to get the bumpers sprayed, purchase brake parts and if I have a spare five minutes look into fitting the rest of the water injection.
s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown: s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Now that is what i call skills!I really envy you Rob for making such progress in such a short time!!
The water injection nozzle looks like it is made by a big aftermarket performance parts company.
About the brakes,i would probably not use the rear discs since they look a bit too much rusted.The rear beam looks great and will surely improve airflow.Thumbs up!!!!
Cheers Chris
No I'm definately not using the rear discs again. The desision was whether to buy just the rears or front and rears. Think I'll be going for just the Bremtech rears but will call them today and see how soon they can deliver.
Well I've just had a bit more of a play with the car and it's still not running well. Have checked TB and that seams fine. Have put in stock spark plugs as well. It starts fine and will tick over at about 2K but its hunting and will often stall. I will try loading an older map but am having trouble with my LM1. I'm not happy it's callibrating properly. I can't remember what it does when it does calibrate? Does it normally count down like they do when you do a heater calibration?
Also does anyone know how much the PFC uses the stock o2 sensors? I realise alot of oil went down the exhaust and am not sure if that would of damaged one?
Quote from: "custardavenger"As well as Russ is getting a service
Also I've got involved in a side project that has made me take Thursday off, but thats something I'l be sharing later.
Just to CLARIFY!
Russ's CAR is getting a service s;) ;) s;)
Hey Russ, i thought it was you who was getting calibrated, ouch! s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
Hope you get this running nicely Rob, it deserves to be an absolute cracker!
So after a bit of worry about my job the project continues. I'm still having problems with calibrating the Innovate and that will have to be sorted before I can get the engine running properly.
So while I try and get help on that I am finishing the rear crash bar, fitting the rest of the water injection, getting the bumpers painted and upgrading the brakes
So far I have bought the rear discs and removed the front ones and they will be going for Zinc plating this week. I have the calipers off. I have decided to fully recondition them and get them powder coated so will be stripping them down at work. Blasting them and then they'll go off with a load of other stuff to get powder.
Looks like I will get most of the stuff done I wanted to.
Step forward then one back.
Have managed to get my Innovate working again. It was one of the plugs on the wire I made up had failed internally. Now thou I find that the car is running lean. I adjusted the idle fueling to get the engine up to temp but once there it would not hold ratio. and kept working its way lean again. Hopefully I'll be able to spend more time in it today. I want to check sensors and connections and then try again. Can anyone give me an idea of any sensor reading I should expect with a PFC?
Ok well thats engine No.2 broken. Now I have no idea what to do with the bloody car. I can only look at it with hate and disgust. Right I'm off for a cry somewhere.
Rob, what happened matey?
s:shock: :shock: s:shock: What happened?
flipping hell mate, thats some bad luck!
Sh*t!What happened Rob??I am so sorry!!
For what it's worth Rob I know exactly how you feel mate having had my own built engine fail the weekend after it was mapped. Loads of time and money evaporated on the spot. I found walking away and forgetting about it for a month was enough to heal the wound and I recommend you try the same.
Remember that it's *just* the engine or part of that's gone, not the complete package / car and there's still a lot of worth remaining in the rest of the components and setup you've got. If you want a hand later with any work let me know and I'll be happy to put a day's labour in now and then to help you out.
There is the silver lining that this is another lesson learned perhaps?
Jason
How much is a 1zz worth? Used, not brand new.
Quote from: "WillsSayers"How much is a 1zz worth? Used, not brand new.
450-1000 depending on where you go private or trader.
Well I may be able to give you a very good deal on one when I get my conversion done, if you're interested........?
OK. So after a night with some friends and a bottle of wisky I'm now a little more calm. s:) :) s:)
Basicly I'm thinking it may be a head gasket problem. Coolant has got into cyl 2 and 4 which eventually turned to a big cloud of white smoke. As I was now getting proper readings fom the innovate i had a go at trying to get it to runing well as it was running very lean. So I corrected the AFR and got it up to temp but it started messing about going full scale either way then it went pop. I had noticed before that there was water in the exhaust but had put that down to my garrage being very damp.
So I don't know whether the water was causing my afr problems or something else like the injectors. Hopefully before the weekend is over I'll be able to get the car turned around and back over the pit and pull the head off. If I'm lucky (which I'm usually not) the block will be fine and any damage if there is any will be the head. If its not that simple then I fear the car is gonna be off the road most of the summer while I save for engine components.
Cheers Jason. I know what your saying. Basicly I'm hoping head off will be enought to sort this. Then it will hopefully run fine on an original map and I'll be away. I'll still be continuing with all the other stuff I'm doing to get it back on the road. I can see the calipers taking another couple of weeks to dissasemble and clean then another week to get them back together. WI kit needs a good few hours on it as well as the crash bar. The main proble is it's been so long since I've driven it I've forgotton how much fun it is.
Will let you know Will. I only payed £550 for this one.
Fingers well and truly crossed for you mate. s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
Quote from: "custardavenger"Will let you know Will. I only payed £550 for this one.
Worst comes to worst, I'll give you mine for half that s:) :) s:) But only 'cause of the drama you're having with this one! I have a lot of sympathy for you considering how much love and labour has gone in to this project! Drop me a PM at some point if you want more details.
Gutted for you Rob. I hope its something fixable and I think there will be a few of us willing to pitch in and help out if needs be. You aren't on your own with this stuff and there are a number of us, I'm sure , cheering you on from our keyboards!
I know what its like forgetting what its like to drive our 2. I haven't driven mine in anger since the trackday in October.
I'll let Rob post the details, but the engine is running OK now.
HORRAH! s:D :D s:D
That's good news. s:D :D s:D
Yeas indeed. Panic over. Thanks to SteveJ and my ever faithfull mate Andy we have spend the day crawling all over the engine to get it sorted.
Problem traced to massive intake of oil through breather system, also including considerable wolumes of air which may have been the reason for the AFR problems.
We started the day with the look at removing the head in situ. Removed the exhaust manifold and found that what was first thought to be coolant was in fact oil. Next was the throttle body which had light traces of oil on the back. then the one breather pipe and nonreturn valve which was also full of oil. So it was off with the intake manifold which was done without moving the engine at all, and we poured out the oil from that. After lunch it was a full put back together (only having to go back to fit a couple of major things we'd forgotton) and it ran beautifully. I have just got to check that the coolant system is fully airblock free and work out the re pluming of the breather.
Big smiles all round (especially by my wallet)
Just left to tidy up tomorrow and as the car is still over the pit take some brace measurements. Will be uploading pics of the possible WI tank install when I get back to notts. Still lots to do but getting it back on the road is getting ever closer.
Happy Happy Joy Joy Happy Happy Joy Joy!!!
Chuffed for ya pal, glad it's worked out s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "WillsSayers"Chuffed for you pal, glad it's worked out s:) :) s:)
+1
Woo and indeed Hah !!!! Well done chief, really chuffed for you s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D
s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Been running it this morning and it seems it will need a little more work. The Thermostat may be an issue. Will have to investigate next time I'm down. It will hold temp at 98. The pipe to rad is warm but you can hold it and the one from rad is stone cold as it the heater matrix.
Got the Tom's FMB fitted and will measure up, I guess thats it for this weekend.
Still better than a blown up engine!
Hi Rob,
Just been catching up on this thread. You don't read stuff this interesting in epic novels! I was really gutted for you when I read about the engine going but relieved when I heard you got it going again! s:D :D s:D
Very kind of you Will to offer help for a member in (dire) need... that's what makes this a great club!
Nice one and I hope your on the road soon s:D :D s:D
Mohammed
It sounds to me like you may have an airlock.
Good news, glad it's turned out to be ok after all!
Quote from: "E"It sounds to me like you may have an airlock.
I've had air in the mk2's coolant system from when I didn't bleed it properly - but there was plenty of popping and banging from the air moving about to let me know; surely Rob would have the same noises? I assume (probably incorrectly) that when the thermostate reaches temp, it opens up the rad. So if the thermostat is bust, the coolant would be heating up in the whole system, but not getting in to the rad to cool down (hence the pipe in to the rad being hot, but the pipe out being cold)? Or am I completely wrong there?!
What happened exactly is we filled the cooling system getting rid of all the air we could. Gave it the first run and it continued to climb, tried it again this morning and same thing. Then I left it for a while and when I came back the pipe to the thermostat was warm (heat tranfer I guess) so gave it another run and this time it held temp at 98 but the fans were running the rad was cold and there is still no heat from the heater. There is definately water in the pipe to the thermostat as you can feel it in the pipe. I think it may be getting round the system but not fast enough.
Did you have the back end up in the air Rob? The roadster can be a real pig to bleed all the air out. Might need to do this several times I reckon.
No. Will try that. I hope it works as I'm now worried about missing the world record attempt. Gonna have my work cut out getting the brakes finished.
Raising the back end should help a bit. Mark did an ace account of the bleeding process in the ref section I think, if it helps at all.
Sweet, will look that up.
OK a few pics to show from the weekend
Oil catch can. I have got something else that would make a good catch can but this is lighter.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03486.jpg)
Water injection tank. Washer bottle from a rover 400. Not a perfect fit but close. I haven't got a bumper to make sure it fits yet and will probably remove the stock air pipe that goes over the wheel so that I can move it forward and rotate it a bit more.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03487.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03488.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03489.jpg)
Other than that hopefully the bumpers arn't too far away. Will be buying some wiring components tomorrow to put in circuits for the future planned mods and WI. Brakes are plodding along. Am hoping to have crash bar done by next weekend then everything can go for powder. Then I just need to find a chunk for the insurance. It's getting closer, I did manage to roll it out into the Sun on Monday before I left and clean the interior. Just need to polish wheels and panels.
nice work and nice find with the rover bottle!
Yeah I love hunting round the scrap yard. First one I bought I took home only to find it had been emptied with a screwdriver in the bottom. This one is good though. Will need the float fitting and bungs making for the pump holes.
Busy Busy Busy.
Looks like I'll be back to my mum's every weekend in May trying to get the car finished. Did get some jobs done this weekend but some will have to be shelved till after the cars on the road.
Got the brake disks back. They look good and was impressed by how well they did at caoting my rusty front disks, I did panic for a second that I'd bought the wrong rear disks when I had them next to each other and noticed the rear disks are bigger. You learn something new.
Coolant wise. The level in the bottle had dropped and when run it seamed better but it's not quite there yet. Need to buy some more coolant but am not worried about this now. Will just be keeping an eye on it and topping up as needed.
Lost a knuckle removing the stock air pipe. Didn't give me the room I hoped it would with the WI tank. Will have to see when I get the bumper back. If it doesn't fit I'll go straight to getting one made at TTS. Have not managed to get the Crash bar done in time so that will have to wait till the second round of powder coating.
Thanks to SteveJ there has been progress made on the PFC comander screen. After he blinded me with science it works out that the comander doesn't like being away from it's screen. We've proved that bath haven't been damaged with the messing about I've been giving them. Next try is to find a way of fitting the comander behind the screen.
So it's all pannic on the getting the calipers finished. Will be going in early to work this week. And hoping I can get the bumpers back in time. Every thing else will have to wait.
So much to do. ooh the pressure!!!
So finally got first round of powdercoat back today. Gives me only a few hours to build the calipers before going back for the weekend. Coating is not as thick as I had hoped but have some touch up paint.
Have front calipers done. And I that excited about it. I can't not show the pics.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03521.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03522.jpg)
I'm really happy with how they came out but didn't realise it would be so much work. I should have had them off when the engine went and did them over the winter. Oh well you learn.
So if all goes well I should be able to get the rears done for this weekend. Get a few other jobs done and be roadworthy (but for front bumper). Then it just an ouch of insurance and Then four months solid of rain and wind. lol
Looking very nice there Rob. s8) 8) s8)
Very nice. I dont think Ive ever seen orange calipers.
Cheers guys. I like to be different.
Made a start on the rear calipers. Have been held up but having to make the caps that Toyota helpfully won't sell you. Pics later
Sexy Orange! Love it!
Russ.You wait till you see the other bits. BTW you seen the meet at my place thread yet? You can have you grill back and I'll hopefully get on to the template week after next.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Russ.You wait till you see the other bits. BTW you seen the meet at my place thread yet? You can have you grill back and I'll hopefully get on to the template week after next.
Nope didnt find it, Nige was on about it but cant see the thread
Quote from: "uktotty"Quote from: "custardavenger"Russ.You wait till you see the other bits. BTW you seen the meet at my place thread yet? You can have you grill back and I'll hopefully get on to the template week after next.
Nope didnt find it, Nige was on about it but cant see the thread
Here you go Russ:
http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=25007&p=309849#p309849
cheers Stu s:) :) s:)
OMG what a day.
Managed to sort the cap out but was a struggle. I will explain.
The cap goes here (Black arrow)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03523a.jpg)
I had assumed (wrongly) that it would come in the new gasket kit as it is part rubber. It didn't come with the gasket set and even though it is a seperate part on the parts diag it doesn't have a part number and therefore is not available to buy from Toyota (well done Toyota). So I had already knackered one (the one in the photo with a bolt through it) and I didn't bother removing the other so it got cooked in the coating process. I was going to make some simple aluminuim caps to replace them but when I showed them to one of the guys at work he noticed that it has a slot in the rubber part to let air in and out. So I had top try and replicate it. (sorry pictues are a bit rushed).
Made a cutter to cut out rubber. (This rubber didn't work and I used somthing thinner)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03527.jpg)
Made cap
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03529.jpg)
Slit it
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03530.jpg)
And fitted
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03531.jpg)
Work pretty well, but will be keeping an eye on them to make sure theres no problems.
All in all rebuilding the calipers was quite easy if it haddn't been for the powder coat prep. The rear caliper service tool was indespencible and I have alot of other kit that makes it easy so when I never have to do it again I'll be prepared. s:lol: :lol: s:lol: The only other thing I'll mention it grease. Toyota quote to use "Lithium Soap Base Glycol Grease" it doesn't seam to exist by that name. You do get a small sachet in the front brake caliper kit (Not the rear?), which I used on the internal seals and pistons. For all other gaskets I used Red Rubber Grease from Opie Oils and for metal to metal contact I used Moly grease (Opie again).
Well I'm glad they're done and can't wait to have them on the car. If anyone needs and info on calipers then feel free to ask. Can't wait for the weekend.
Looking Great!
Well it was two long days of work on the car and it's so close to being back on the road. All the calipers fitted well but for one that somehow managed to have a damaged thread and I had to go out to the local tool shop for a tap (£16 ouch), while there I met someone very interesting which I'll tell you about later.
Anyway, The brakes are now as good as I can afford. Bremtech drilled and grooved disks front and rear which I had Zinc passivated, Yellow stuff pads all round, Goodridge brake lines, rebuilt calipers, speed bleaders and Ate Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. Can't wait to see how it all performs!
Here is a little pic to show how awsome the calipers look. Better pice will be taken next week.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03532.jpg)
As well as the brakes I also fitted my kirks (cut down), fitted a big bore throttle body and tried the washer bottle/WI tank but it didn't fit behind the bumper. Tried the bumper with my design rear crash bar. Gonna look great when it's finished.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03533.jpg)
So lots done and lots still to do but to get on the road it just needs a front bumper and a couple of other bits and bobs.
Now the big question. Can anyone lend me a PFC Commander for a few weeks just while I have the car on shakedown? Mine is being modified at the mo.
looking good mate, the orange looks real nice against all the black.
Looking good Rob, glad to see its all coming together.
The calipers look excellent with the black wheels. Well impressive. I have a pfc commander which won't be needed for a few months yet. You can't get one closer to home and don't want to take it apart or anything.
Gimme a shout if you want it and I'll stick it in the post.
Phil
Cheers Phil that would be great. I promise I won't go anywhere near it with a screwdriver. lol
Will PM you address
Just looking into Track tyres if anyone would like to give me some input?
Haven't had stock wheels on for a long time, They take 185/55R15 and 205/50R15 don't they?
Am looking at Kuhmo V70A's 195/55R15 and 205/50R15. They don't do 215's unfortunately and I don't think you can squeeze a 225 on a Stock 15?
Opinions? BTW thinking Kuhmo as I think I can get more discount on them than any other. Money is a big factor. s:( :( s:(
Edit.
Just noticed there are different compounds available. I'm definately gonna need help on this one.
195/50/15 front is better if you can get it
Cheers Mark.
Any idea on what would be the best compound? I'm guessing hard would still be softer than a normal road tyre ie Toyo?
Quote from: "custardavenger"Cheers Mark.
Any idea on what would be the best compound? I'm guessing hard would still be softer than a normal road tyre ie Toyo?
I would go for the Toyo R888. A friend has run both the V70A and the R888 and reckons the R888 to be very superior (and you can get them in 215/50R15).
Regards compound, he runs medium R888 for road and track and they survive well (given he is putting nearly 490bhp down the front wheels s:shock: :shock: s:shock: ). The medium V70A were turned to liquid on the last track day I saw him on.
I think soft would only be of use with a sprint course. Anything like a 20 minute session could melt soft or super soft compound. Also remember that once you get on this sort of tyre, you need to think about how warm the tread is before really leaning on it.
Chris
bear in mind if they are like a048s you will be lucky to get 5000 miles per set
Quote from: "markiii"bear in mind if they are like a048s you will be lucky to get 5000 miles per set
Always going to be par for the course for this sort of tyre. A halfway house would be something like the Hankook RS2. I am up around 5000 miles on them now and there is still some left, but they are a fair bit harder than the V70A or Toyo medium. I would say soft for a road tyre, hard for a track tyre, but you are very aware of when they are hot / cold. Sorely tempted for a set of R888 next time.
Chris
The tyre are to go on a second set of wheels for track so I would be very happy to get 5000 miles out of them
Do the Toyos have the same side wall issues as the T1-R's?
I have to say I've gone off Toyo with this set I have now and will probably try something else when I can finally wear them out.
Quote from: "ChrisGB"I would say soft for a road tyre, hard for a track tyre, but you are very aware of when they are hot / cold. Sorely tempted for a set of R888 next time.
Chris
Is that because it's easier to get temp into a track tyre? I don't mind having to get a tyre warm before it performs.
Also I might look out for a cheap pair of face lift rears that way I can run my old rears on the front with 205's and put 225's on the back the same as my road tryes.
Quote from: "custardavenger"The tyre are to go on a second set of wheels for track so I would be very happy to get 5000 miles out of them
Do the Toyos have the same side wall issues as the T1-R's?
I have to say I've gone off Toyo with this set I have now and will probably try something else when I can finally wear them out.
Don't know on that one. It is a question I would like to know the answer to before I invest in a set.
Quote from: "ChrisGB"I would say soft for a road tyre, hard for a track tyre, but you are very aware of when they are hot / cold. Sorely tempted for a set of R888 next time.
Chris
Quote from: "custardavenger"Is that because it's easier to get temp into a track tyre? I don't mind having to get a tyre warm before it performs.
I was referring to the nature of the Hankook RS2. IT is soft by road tyre standards, but a bit hard by track day tyre standards, although the compound goes gooey and sticky when they get hot. Strangely they work best at quite low pressure too. They feel greasy past the limit at stock pressures, but run them around 24.5 on the front and 28 ish on the back and they stick like sh!t on a blanket.
Chris
if your getting 16" rears save some cash and go for Yoko advan neovas you won't get a better tyre
Quote from: "markiii"if your getting 16" rears save some cash and go for Yoko advan neovas you won't get a better tyre
Been thinking about them as an alternative to the R888. Know for stiff sidewalls according to Lotus driving friends, but one of them went to A048 then R888, so it is all a bit confusing.
Chris
i ran teh neovas for ages, they have very stiff sidewalls
great wet grip
fabulous dry grip
and are without doubt teh most progressive tyre I've used
they would be on teh VXR now if they made teh sizes
Quote from: "markiii"i ran the neovas for ages, they have very stiff sidewalls
great wet grip
fabulous dry grip
and are without doubt the most progressive tyre I've used
they would be on the VXR now if they made the sizes
The progressiveness is the main reason I am considering them. The RS2 are very grippy, but you don't want to be too relaxed when they do let go.
Chris
I kid you not the passenger will be able to feel where the grip is let alone the driver
You got a link for them Mark? Been looking on Yokohama uk and can't see them.
I can see A048? which are close enough on size.
You will only get them from Lotus dealers AFAIK. Not the ultimate dry grip, but much more friendly than the R888 or V70A if it rains and probably much easier to approach the limits with.
Chris
you can onlt get them through Lotus specialists as they are Elise S1 OEM
m http://www.eliseparts.com/products.php?product=481 (http://www.eliseparts.com/products.php?product=481) m
same price as stock bridgestones
Ah so £384 but I'd have to drop the fronts to 195. Will get a price from my mate at the weekend. I think the last time I asked him he could do V70A's for £80 ish a corner
Ok wheels sorted so am looking for 205/45R15's and 225/40R16's. Will start looking into prices. May need to spread the costs and buy them one at a time. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Great to see that the project is moving along Rob!! s:) :) s:)
About the tires,many folks here in Greece order from here as he is known to be the cheapest for R888 tires:
m http://camskill.co.uk/ (http://camskill.co.uk/) m
You should definetely try for once some semi-slick tires since the car is a different animal equipped with these kind of tires.
But you must be careful when on track the oil starvation issue..A Moroso oil pan is a good solution,or you add some baffles on the stock oil pan since i see you got the skills for it.
I really enjoy the R888 and the English folks that we met in Corfu(GLAD TO MEET YOU ALL GUYS s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: ) saw that most Greek MR2's were on R888 tires..
Since it is summer now and the rains are fewer you can give it a try,but when winter approaches please do change to normal tires since it rains a lot in the UK.
Cheers Chris
You read my mind on the baffled sump. I have two spare sumps at home that will soon be modified.
As for the tyres I'll give Camskill a try as well.
Ta
Ok need some help!!!
I canot get hold of Carl_Evs who's brother is spraying my front bumper. Been trying everything I can to get hold of him but no joy. If anyone has any contact details for him other than mobile please PM me. I'm worried I may not make the WRA if I don't get the bumper back in time.
I think Carl is on Facebook if that helps Rob.
Cheers mate anything is worth a go. Maybe I can get hold of his GF through his page.
Edit
No one that is obviously him. s:( :( s:(
Just been out for a first shake down run. Cooling issue is sorted, little bit of work to do in the tuning department, IAV may need a look at as Idle is fast and unstable, but other than that it seams ok. Just letting it cool down and I'll start checking bolts.
Great to be back in it but long way to go still till its making it's full potential.
congratulations Rob! s:D :D s:D
Well done Rob. s:) :) s:)
Nice one Rob! s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "custardavenger"Ok need some help!!!
I canot get hold of Carl_Evs who's brother is spraying my front bumper. Been trying everything I can to get hold of him but no joy. If anyone has any contact details for him other than mobile please PM me. I'm worried I may not make the WRA if I don't get the bumper back in time.
All sorted -I was the other side of the Iron Curtain on a job in Moscow and t'interneless...... s:( :( s:(
Excellent news Rob. All set now for the WRA then?
Cheersa guys
Quote from: "E"Excellent news Rob. All set now for the WRA then?
Well not 100% sure. looking good but there is still a couple of bodywork issues to sort out and I need to hope it keeps running.
I did have an issue with a leaky injector o ring, also the Innovate is playing up again and I think I may have started the process of emptying the sound deadening from my back box.
So there is just that and the tune being quite a way out and the idle being some what inconsistant.
But dam it's still good to drive.
So what now?
Well performance wise I need to do a rewire of the additional electrics so I can add the things coming up.
Install WI pump and tank and get some Dyno time in to set it up
Buy and fit a smaller battery
Make components for the CC system.
Buy another MAF bracket and the other intake components and get a new intake made with CC.
More dyno time.
If I have the cash then a better flowing exhaust manifold.
Then I think I'm as far as I can go with a stock engine and a C30-74 Rotrex, I then will look at building up my blown engine with some stronger internals. ANd saving for a bigger Rotrex.
Anyway enough of the pipe dream, need to get the little things finished off and get some bloody bracing done, I still have none!!
Driving it back to Nottingham today so will see how it does on the long run.
Aw bugger. Looks like the site I hosted my early pics on has died and been taken over by Ebaumsworld.com. Bugger.
Maybe when I have time I'll re-host them.
Looking great s:D :D s:D
Cheers mate. Hoping to get the outside bits finished this weekend and then will post pics.
Woot!
glad to hear this is all coming together! nice one
So my car made it's first event this weekend. Yay. For those of you that didn't see it at WRA here it is
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03544p.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03545p.jpg)
So good to be driving it around. But I still can't fully enjoy it. The map is a long way off and I still have alot of knock on the top end.
So big push to get as many mods finished before JAE. Currently I'm working on Bracing, Rear diffuser, a rewire of all the additional electrics and the WI system.
I have got the WI pump mounted so just need to get the tank made, wiring in and get it all set up.
Also looking at buying an odyssey battery and have just ordered some special paint.
Lastly. I'll be taking the yellow stuff pads out again when I get back home as I fitted them as per instructions using the supplied sticky rubber pads, That was a bad idea. they can't take the heat of the brakes and allow the pad to moove around too much. Not sure whether it's best to fit the stock shims, double side tape the backs of the pads and fit them with nothing or fit them with nothing at all. Opinions?
Edit put the wrong pic up.
Congrats so far Rob, that is looking great - the orange grill is a genius touch! s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Its been like that ever since he ran over the tango guy
So been working on my map to get the AFR's a bit more realistic. And since I put my name down for a dyno day I thought I would try and deal with the Knock I have by pulling more timing. I did think that the knock was related to intake air temp but now I'm not so sure. Basicaly I've been pulling back the IGN timing loads and it's not helping. Currently pulled back to 9 and still seeing 100 basic knock at 5850rpm/13000, Air temp 39.
So I need help. Just how far back can I pull the ignition? Should I be making adjustments to the Igl map and if so what/how? Any other idead of what to try?
Please someone help!!!!!!
Tried adding more fuel? What's the AFR where you're getting the knock?
13.4
I don't have the tuning laptop in front of me right now, but 13000 load is in the top third or so, isn't it? Working from memory here.. and nearly 6000rpm is getting pretty well on so you'll be at WOT pushing more or less full boost at that point?
If so, 13.5 is really pretty lean for a road engine - try 12.5:1 or richer (11.5:1 maximum, realistically) - 13.5:1 is 'lean best power' but you wouldn't tune a forced induction road car there, unless you enjoy replacing pistons.. (Sorry.. bad joke!)
Generally if you can't get rid of knock with spark retard then it's lack of fuel (OK, there are some other options - too rich with incredibly hot spots in the cylinder could do it, too).
Have you tried running with any kind of engine stethoscope (electronic or mechanical) to make sure it's 'real' knock and not a dickey knock sensor BTW? With knock of 100 you should be able to hear it - although at high rpm like that, it can be tricky when you're driving at the same time.
FWIW my tune hits a peak knock of 25 in the high load/high RPM cells under full boost (8psi), with ignition timings of 15-17deg, AFR of 10:1 (too rich, really, it's robbing power) and intake temps of 35-40C (from memory)
Isnt a 100 silly high? I get audible knock spikes at 40 when its silly hot and pushing it and crap myself and back off. Can you hear it knocking or is it noise?
You've tried going richer? You've pulled timing, how about the VVT settings? What is the value on that cell? What's the boost level at that point? Is 13000 near the max load? I've read reducing the value to create overlap helps in supercharged applications as it blows boost out and helps in spots when theres too much. Check out posts on NC by 'GoatOfRafin' as he has documented this with graphical proof
Cheers Aaron. I'll have a go at making it richer, It's not quite full boost, probably 8psi.
Did try and make some DET cans but when I tried then I couldn't hear anything. Was going to look at plans on the interent to see if I had made them wrong or if there was a better place to put the pick up.
Ok searched. Gonna mod my det cans and find somewhere lower on the block to attach to.
Unless things have changed a lot in the last few years, isn't 13.5:1 too lean for forced induction anyway? Sounds like a recipe for holed pistons to me. I would have thought aiming for 12.5:1 could be risky under boost.
Chris
Mostly it is running much richer than that. 9's 10's but was worried that that was way too rich. Seams the map is curently the wrong way round. It's rinning 11's at low rpm moving up to 12's.
If some one has a good map showing target AFR's that would be good for a guide. I just want to get a safe tune in so that once the other mods are in I can get a proper dyno map.
Cheers guys
Quote from: "custardavenger"Mostly it is running much richer than that. 9's 10's but was worried that that was way too rich. Seams the map is curently the wrong way round. It's rinning 11's at low rpm moving up to 12's.
If some one has a good map showing target AFR's that would be good for a guide. I just want to get a safe tune in so that once the other mods are in I can get a proper dyno map.
Cheers guys
You want to stop those 9 / 10s as well. 9 is rich enough to wash the oil off the cylinder walls. How about a target 11.5:1 as a safe tune starting point for full throttle?
Chris
Thats what I've been doing and exactly what I was worried about. Lowest is now 11. Will have a go at getting the WOT points richer and see how that goes. I have been trying to read up on the internet about this but not found anything good.
Whats the theory on low load points and ballenced throttle. Got those points tuned to 14.5 ish which I was recommended. Have been told that when not on the power there aren't the high cylender pressures and therefore less risk of damage?
For the amount of hard work and sweat you've put in on that engine Rob, I'd be straight over to somewhere like Thor and get it mapped by them. The risk of another meltdown would scare me, but I know you don't scare easy mate. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Good luck with it and for goodness sake be careful, I want a ride in this beastie at some point. s8) 8) s8)
It's all down to money mate. I have very little and if I spend it on mapping now the it will be wasted once I've fitted the CC and WI. I know some may be disparing at my mistakes but this is something I would really like to learn. I am taking it really slow this time. And really appreciate all the help on this. Just want to get into a no knock not too rich/lean safe map to see me throught till I can afford some Dyno time.
Quote from: "Star_69"Isnt a 100 silly high? I get audible knock spikes at 40 when its silly hot and pushing it and crap myself and back off. Can you hear it knocking or is it noise?
You've tried going richer? You've pulled timing, how about the VVT settings? What is the value on that cell? What's the boost level at that point? Is 13000 near the max load? I've read reducing the value to create overlap helps in supercharged applications as it blows boost out and helps in spots when theres too much. Check out posts on NC by 'GoatOfRafin' as he has documented this with graphical proof
I know absoulutly nothing on how the VVTI map works so am nervous to go near that. I think I'll try and get the fueling better first It was stupidly rich and looke like I've pulled it too far the other way. Will check the values in there and post.
Give me a clue, NC?
Quote from: "custardavenger"Whats the theory on low load points and ballenced throttle. Got those points tuned to 14.5 ish which I was recommended. Have been told that when not on the power there aren't the high cylender pressures and therefore less risk of damage?
Low load, cruise, gentle acceleration can all be at stoic - that's how the stock ECU works, you have to have a reasonable amount of throttle on before it drops into open loop.
Trailing throttle should be stoic or lean (sssh, nobody mention that my overrun is ~11:1! pop.. bang.. flames.. fire.. FIRE.. FIRE!)
If you want a really safe tune I'd tune to 11:1 on WOT and then work back from there toward 12:1 - at 11:1 you shouldn't get any mixture-induced knock at your boost levels, so you can find out what timing you can run, then wind back the mixture a little and juggle mixture & timing until you find the 'sweet spot' of best power. That's where you
really need a rolling road, or a lot of time on the road and a very good butt-dyno (and someone you trust to drive, really) - I don't personally believe you can auto-tune for best power, but that's another argument for another day s:) :) s:)
I'll take a screenshot of my target AFR map later - it's horrible, as really the map should have nothing but smooth transitions and mine jumps massively from 14.7 to 11.5 in some areas, but it 'does' as a 'get me around' map.
Oh.. VVTi map - I think I got all the knowledge I have from NewCelica.org - there's a very good thread on PFC tuning on there, which is the 'NC' referred to earlier s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "custardavenger"Thats what I've been doing and exactly what I was worried about. Lowest is now 11. Will have a go at getting the WOT points richer and see how that goes. I have been trying to read up on the internet about this but not found anything good.
Whats the theory on low load points and ballenced throttle. Got those points tuned to 14.5 ish which I was recommended. Have been told that when not on the power there aren't the high cylender pressures and therefore less risk of damage?
This is correct IMO, at partial load you are not generating high cylinder pressures or temperatures, so should be fine. Manufacturers aim for the magic 14.7 (stoichiometric combustion ratio) for these part throttle and closed loop operation conditions. It is not the most efficient burn, but feeds the catalytic converter what it needs.
The part load condition is less critical in many ways. Knock occurs generally when one of two things happens. Either the cylinder is filled too well (IE too much boost) and the mixture detonates by compression heating, or when the spark is too far forward for the cylinder filling, when peak pressure is reached before the piston gets to TDC. (Other things can cause it like glowing deposits igniting mixture, oil breather allowing too much oil mist in, just plain old too much boost or not enough quench).
When you are at WOT, the cylinder has a high density charge with lots of energy. If the spark is too far forward, the mixture will burn from too early in the compression cycle. Now to this you need to add in compression heating. This also increases the speed at which the flame travels through the mixture. So when you run boost, the system has very dense mixture, hot mixture and increased compression heating. To counter this you have two adjustments (given you don't want to back off the boost). You can retard the spark so that the burn starts later, or you can add fuel so that the fuel soaks up some of the compression heating, cooling the cylinders. In practice you do a bit of both generally.
Just a thought, have you got a TRD thermostat fitted? That might help with chamber cooling.
There are other pitfalls too. You can tune an engine so that you will have a bit too much advance (does not matter if this is WOT or part throttle. You will not get knock, you will not gain power, but you will cause A LOT of stress to the engine. The art of getting ignition timing right is to work your way up to optimum. Imagine you start at a retarded timing condition. As you gradually advance the timing, the power will gradually come up. You will get to a point where you can add more advance but the power will stay where it is. The sweet spot is that point where adding more advance will not get more power, but taking any off will drop the power. This is only possible to do if you have a rolling road and engine stethoscope. You will hear the engine getting harsher as you add advance, and you will hear it get a lot harsher before knock sets in, but the dyno will show you that you have reached the timing "shelf" (the point that you want to be on the edge of).
Now imagine you are tuning on road. You cannot tell how the power is. You may perceive an improvement in the top end that may really be a drop in the upper mid for example. You have no scope, so can only hear knock when it is gross. The engine harshness may have gone up a long way, but not yet set off the knock count. Under these conditions, you have all the ingredients that can kill an engine. You then run it hard, of have a duff tank of fuel, or the day is hot and then pop goes an engine. I don't mean this to sound harsh, but the last engine could well have been lunched because of this. I would say take it to a mapper and get it done, or just plod it around on low boost, safe mixture low knock until you can. I think you have enough experience with this to make a safe setup, but when you want to maximise output, you need the rolling road, scope and expertise of a good ECU tuner.
Regards bleeding boost off with valve overlap, that will lead to unburnt fuel going off past the exhaust valves and into the exhaust system. Not a great way to go IMO.
Chris
... I love the detail in your posts Chris!....
Quote from: "ChrisGB"Regards bleeding boost off with valve overlap, that will lead to unburnt fuel going off past the exhaust valves and into the exhaust system. Not a great way to go IMO.
You can use the VVTi to retard cam timing to achieve something akin to a miller cycle. i.e. retarted intake cam timing causes some mixture to be pushed out from the cylinder into the intake manifold as intake is still open well into compression stroke - thus reducing the effective cylinder pressure and reducing potential for knock.
Quote from: "sjspitz"... I love the detail in your posts Chris!....
Quote from: "ChrisGB"Regards bleeding boost off with valve overlap, that will lead to unburnt fuel going off past the exhaust valves and into the exhaust system. Not a great way to go IMO.
You can use the VVTi to retard cam timing to achieve something akin to a miller cycle. i.e. retarted intake cam timing causes some mixture to be pushed out from the cylinder into the intake manifold as intake is still open well into compression stroke - thus reducing the effective cylinder pressure and reducing potential for knock.
There is that, it all depends on when the exhaust valve closes I guess.
EDIT: Talking of valve timing, did you find any top end advantage by increasing overlap?
Chris
what are you monitoring knock with mate? didn't think the pfc showed knock? or am i getting mixed up. What are you using to control your boost?
PFC will shock you knock on the commander
Quote from: "DannyN"PFC will shock you knock on the commander
I noticed this on the commander, but for some reason on yank forums they were telling me to buy J&S safe guard to monitor knock.
m http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showth ... gik&page=2 (http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31207&highlight=ilogik&page=2) m
mixed up between pages.
Wow. ok lots of posts and lots going on.
Cheers Aaron and Chris. comments are great.
Chris I'm totally with you with what you put in your post. Indeed last engine was my fault. I've put that down to the learning process. And indeed it may actually work out better for me in the long run but I'll explain that later. In what I'm doing at the moment I am in no way looking for maximum output and totally realise that can only come from time on the dyno. I am happy running underpowered and safe for the moment, But, I'm a man driving a car with a loud pedal that is exciting so realistically there is no way I'm going to potter about, Thus this work to get a safe map. I promise to all on this site that once the CC and WI are installed then the next thing is dyno time with the best I can afford. s:D :D s:D
So on to the events of today.
I advanced the area I had previously retarded and upped the fueling. Took it for a run and a whole load better. A few tweeks on fueling and the top end is now at 11.3-.5 with 13 deg. Now giving it a power run now it has a flat spot at 5500 where the knock was, the engine light flashed but Knock measured is 19 basic 24 advanced. Question is have I run out of injector duty? Max duty was in that cell at 72. Can't see any other reason for the light to flash.
Anyway I'm happy Knock is under control and I've spent many hours cruising on the motorway getting cruise to stoic and I would say it's 90% there and I'm getting very stable AFR readings. Also noticed the exhast note is sounding better and throttle response too.
Ilogic
I'm monitoring my Knock via datalogging the PFC with a laptop, I don't currently have a Commander installed (being modified) but that would show me knock too. As for boost control I have a supercharger which being linked mechanicaly to the engine will produce the a given boost for a given rpm. There is no controller like you would use with a turbo.
And finally I've read good things about the knockguard, though I think the guys that make it have hit the wall.
Quote from: "Ilogik"Quote from: "DannyN"PFC will shock you knock on the commander
I noticed this on the commander, but for some reason on yank forums they were telling me to buy J&S safe guard to monitor knock.
m http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showth ... gik&page=2 (http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31207&highlight=ilogik&page=2) m
mixed up between pages.
The PFC will
show you knock. But it won't take any action on that value - if you see high knock you better get off the throttle before it does any damage, because the PFC will carry on doing just what the maps are telling it to do regardless, until the engine grenades.
The stock ECU, on the other hand, will dynamically retard the timing as it 'hears' more knock, thus preventing any bad things from happening if you happen to get a bad tank of gas, or it's a hot day, or there's a full moon.. etc.
The J&S sits between the PFC and your ignition harness and listens to the knock sensor, it performs the function that the stock ECU would do - retarding the ignition it response to knock and preventing large bills should it all turn to rats for some reason.
I don't have a J&S because I like to think I know what I'm doing - on the other hand, should I get a bad tank of gas one day and hole a piston, I will
really sorely regret not getting one. If I were you, I would buy a J&S - it gives you 'fit & forget' like the stock ECU, and you don't have to worry that the '100' knock spike you just saw has punched out a ring land.
cheers for the reply, will look into that then as i dont want to blow up my engine with this new turbo.
Copilot?
I think you'll find J&S is no longer available.
So can anyone answer my question on inj duty?
The only thing I can think to do if thats the case is to try and run it at 12 and hope I have enough duty to get to max rpm. Then I guess I'd be saving for larger injectors.
are you running stock injectors?
No. 550's I think, I haven't got the info with me but I'm sure they are 500 and something. They are light blue.
Is it a quick flash or a pulse? You're not maxing your injectors if duty is 72%. Have you tried adding fuel at that point in the map and checking its making it richer with the wideband? If the light flashed quickly its because you changed the Knock Threshold on the Settings 1 tab to a lower value
Cheers Star
Thats what I needed to know. Wasn't sure what max duty would be?
It was a flash. I'm sure it's definately rich at that point. Logged afr is 11.2. I'm just amazed that the datalogit didn't log any knock. I didn't think you could change the knock level? I can't see anything in settings 1 to do that.
2ZZ-GE Power FC lets you set the knock level that will trigger a CEL, 1ZZ-FE just uses 60 for knock threshold.
90% inj duty will cause a flash, too. Some other Power FCs (not 1ZZ or 2ZZ) give you a threshold control over that, too. Some even give a threshold for MAF voltage.
Well those of you watching will be glad to know I passed on the Dyno run. The car is off the road for a couple of weeks while I put some miles on the volvo so will have to wait for me to sort out these mapping problems.
Thanks for the help so far guys
s:shock: :shock: s:shock: I have no idea what most people are talking about on this thread at the moment, but Rob, hope your car is sorted out and running smoothly ASAP mate s:D :D s:D
well I'm totally skint this month but the otherside of this is exciting parcels arive at my door. Just got a MAF bracket from PPE and a Odyssey 680 battery from Tayna.co.uk (top guys).
I have started drawing up the battery tray and will get one made soon. The reason for the battery is I wanted more clearance for the CC, I could have gone one smaller and got much more room but was worried about reliability.
Also I now have a rivnut gun. This will make ataching things much easier.
Woo Hoo.
I just ordered a rivnut tool as well, they seem to be just the job for the odd mod! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Yeah they're genius. Going to mainly use mine for putting threads in aluminium that can be undone often. But great for those thin steel locations.
So I've booked my flight for America and it's time to think about what I can bring back.
Seeing as I have decided I'm going all the way with this car I will hopefully go a step further with the handling (fit BC Racing shocks, tie bars and change the rear beam etc) over the winter while I'm not using the car so much.
I'm also looking at building my old 1ZZ engine, Specs will be something like
Weisco 9.0:1 +0.5 pistons
MWR rods
Full ARP stud sets
Crower Stage 2 FI cams
MWR valves
Valve Springs (maybe retainers too, All depends on what I can afford)
Head work (think I have a source for this)
Custom Sump
TRD thermo and pos water pump change.
Painted a lovely colour
Not sure if I've missed anything, (shout out if you recomend anything?). So it will be a slow build. Thinking of starting off with all the head parts, Get that all finished, Sort out all the custom parts and then get on to the block.
One thing I'm not sure on is Main and rod bearings. Toyota ones are graded to best fit. Where as it seams all aftermarket ones are one size fits all? Is that because in race aplications engines run larger tollerances anyway? or would they need to hone fitted?
Also recomendations on Head gaskets would be good. Been recomended copper, but also warned by the same person that they must be properly heat treated and that alot of manufacturers don't do that.
So what do you all think?
For the head gaskets, you could do a lot worse than contact Ferriday. They make a pretty good gasket and do some bimetal copper and steel ones, noy cheap, but very good. They require very flat surfaces though.
Thats cool. Will be getting the head and block skimmed. Cheers Nige
don't do the thermpstat unless you find you need it in the real world
it will not be good for your heater, I wouldn't do it again knowing what I know now
Yeah I've seen someone else post about that. Own one anyway and it's not that hard to change back so may give it a go. I get reduced heating now anyway as the vent are blocked.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Also recomendations on Head gaskets would be good. Been recomended copper, but also warned by the same person that they must be properly heat treated and that alot of manufacturers don't do that.
Cometic. No question.
My build has a cometic head gasket now.
Cheers guys will investigate Cometic.
Well I've had an awful day for many reasons, The ones involving my two started with it not starting. Didn't start after work and again this morning. AAAARg. Very upset with it. Managed to get the Odessy in enough to run and it started on that. Bit of finish bodging at work and I'm left with:-
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03565.jpg)
I've charged the other battery and it seams ok but I think I'll just run the Odessy till it's off the road at the weekend when I'll hopefully get the battery tray made.
So as well as that I've got a E 8 fault code on the Innovate. s:evil: :evil: s:evil: , Dam thing, So manual says it's either knackered or over temp. It does start up and run for a while then the code comes up. Find it hard to believe it's over temp. I know I've now wrapped the exhaust which will keep the temp in a bit I've not bee pushing itand the code comes on every time I drive it now, I can only presume the sensor is knackered. s:( :( s:(
On a good note Likwidart Rob have don a top job fitting my graphics. Pics to follow when the car isn't so shamefully dirty.
Ok I'm having a little pull on reality and the funds that I have.
I've had the water injection tank made. Not completely finished and also probably not the best placing I could have chosen, but it's done now and it cost me a fortune so I'll be sticking with it for at least a long while.
Decided to leave the engine build to next years project, and continue to finish the Supercharger system and work on handling. Looks like it may be a while before I get the charge cooler installed. I may get the manifold done first so that I know how much room I have to work with.
So it's the big wait to get more fabrication done. I'me sure it would probably pay me to buy a tig welder by the time I've had all this expensive alu work done.
Spare sensor here you can try Rob. Its old and throws an occasional wobble but it works and it'll confirm where your fault is.
(or isn't!)
Cheers Ste. I pick that up when I come and see you.
So I've put my sensible head on (well more sensible anyway) and have decided to leave buying engine parts till next year unless I score some true bargins.
So I'm off to america in a couple of weeks and am trying to work out what to bring back.
So far
Exhaust flange
K&N oil filters (so cheep)
Not sure on whether to get some flexi couplings to repair my stock cat, They are expensive over here and about £24 plus getting them welded.
Then thinking of suspension links. I will be fitting BC racing struts this winter and want to get all the suspension sorted. Thinking rear adjustables. So Che or Megan? (is there others?) Is there really any benifit from the trailing arms?
So other than a large amount of Bourbon anyone suggest anything else suspension wise or inline with my modding route work buying in the USA?
If it turns out that you need one, you could always pop in a VW dealership and pick up a bosch sensor for the Innovate. Piddle cheap over there.
Don't forget you have limits on what you can bring back before getting stung for duties.
Quote from: "spit"If it turns out that you need one, you could always pop in a VW dealership and pick up a bosch sensor for the Innovate. Piddle cheap over there.
Don't forget you have limits on what you can bring back before getting stung for duties.
Do you know what the VW part number is or what vehicle and year I'd need to quote?
Don't worry I won't go over limit
Beetle Turbo. Can't recall which sensor it is but P/N is 021-906-262-B
(with thanks to Bill on S'chat)
For the part number: m http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/foru ... -1578.html (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-1578.html) m
It's a Bosch LSU4.2 sensor, Bosch part 17014 - also available at a lot of autoparts stores in the US.
More part numbers here, too: m http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/produc ... cts_id/345 (http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/345) m
[edit] Beaten to it by Ste..
Can you also get some Avia .188 Carbon tubing? Its about $5 over there and $100 over here
I wouldn't mind some drop links Rob s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "uktotty"Can you also get some Avia .188 Carbon tubing? Its about $5 over there and $100 over here
What length? If it will fit in my bag then yes.
I need a GT30 s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "aaronjb"That does look nice s:) :) s:)
Now can you make me one of these:
m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ4UmtD15UE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ4UmtD15UE) m
s:) :) s:)
Now that is pretty impressive, looks like Johnny 5 !
Can't you all settle for twinkies or something. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "sjspitz"Quote from: "custardavenger"Also recomendations on Head gaskets would be good. Been recomended copper, but also warned by the same person that they must be properly heat treated and that alot of manufacturers don't do that.
Cometic. No question.
Agreed, had this on my mk2 forged build.
If MWR don't do them check out MTbuggies.com thats where I got mine.
Can you bring me back some american skank uni girls like in the movies?
Quote from: "custardavenger"Quote from: "uktotty"Can you also get some Avia .188 Carbon tubing? Its about $5 over there and $100 over here
What length? If it will fit in my bag then yes.
I think they are 1m or 1.5m mate
CHEERS s:) :) s:)
They're not going to fit in my bag then. Not taking my skis. Will measure may bag tonight.
Quote from: "custardavenger"They're not going to fit in my bag then. Not taking my skis. Will measure may bag tonight.
Just snap 'em in half - they'll fit fine that way...
So rear suspension arms. I need some advice. Where is best price for Megans? Or should I go for the Che ones? I presume I can get them direct from him at cheaper than MWR price?
You are going to need a big bloody bag...
They're not that big. s:? :? s:?
OK all parts ordered, and a list of things to buy while there. Not spent that much but bought alot of things that weren't worth the cost of shipping.
Other than that most stuff on hold till after the rally.
Rob,we need an update man.
We want one more Rotrex'ed MR2 to hit the road soon. s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
Well not much going on with it Chris. It's on the road and little jobs are getting done here and there but I'm just spending time chasing my fabricator (if only I could afford one that isn't so busy).
Also I don't know if you've read my banger rally thread but thats in 11 days so been mad busy with that. When that is out of the way I have the Commander to fix back into the dash and lots of very custom parts to fit (hopefully).
Will be picking up my BC's soon though. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: but won't go on till winter s:( :( s:(
Meant to ask. Have you got a thread about your mods. I've been trying not to look at your car too much as I'll only get myself upset about what mine could have been, s:) :) s:)
Replied to wrong thread :p s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
But as with others hurry up man :p Not seen a charged roady before.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Well not much going on with it Chris. It's on the road and little jobs are getting done here and there but I'm just spending time chasing my fabricator (if only I could afford one that isn't so busy).
Also I don't know if you've read my banger rally thread but thats in 11 days so been mad busy with that. When that is out of the way I have the Commander to fix back into the dash and lots of very custom parts to fit (hopefully).
Will be picking up my BC's soon though. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: but won't go on till winter s:( :( s:(
Meant to ask. Have you got a thread about your mods. I've been trying not to look at your car too much as I'll only get myself upset about what mine could have been, s:) :) s:)
Where is that rally thread,i cannot seem to find it even though i think i'm good at searching.. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Yes,i understand what you mean about time table..Patience is indeed a virtue,back in 2005 i sent my car by ship to Cyprus to undergo the 2zz install and waited almost 4 months to get it back... s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
So,i am most certain that when it is finished you'll have a grin on your face for months. s:) :) s:)
About my car i just started to create a blog that i will write everything..It will some time though for sure:
m http://mr2rotrex.blogspot.com/ (http://mr2rotrex.blogspot.com/) m
Cheers
Probably not the easiest to find in a search.
l viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24392 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24392) l
As I said the car is on the road. The only actual problem with it is the knock, which will be sorted when the water injection is sorted. So it's putting a smile on my face now.
I will be keeping an eye on your blog then. s:D :D s:D
I've followed Rob recently and have to say it goes rather well, especially considering the rev limit. With the full range, this will be one seriously nice car. s8) 8) s8)
So just a quick post to tell what I've been doing today.
I had the dash off and fitted the new and improved comander screen. Went fairly well (other than the bloody maplin cable I brought). There will be pics some time as I have also got the infor for a 'how to' on dash removal.
I must say a massive thanks to SteveJ for all the help he gave me on this. He has put many hours into this and without him I'm sure it would never have got done. Cheers Mate.
Quote from: "custardavenger"I must say a massive thanks to SteveJ for all the help he gave me on this. He has put many hours into this and without him I'm sure it would never have got done. Cheers Mate.
A fair trade methinks for the help swapping my gearbox and the use of your garage. Sorry I didnt get over today - I forgot I was supposed to be coming until it was too late s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Did you manage to connect up the keypad?
Thats fine mate. Didn't really need you. Only problem was that one of the cores of the maplin cable I used was bad. Sorted though and It's all beautiful. lol
I'm getting far too good at removing the dash now.
Ok then, Now I have a newly installed a new wideband sensor, I'm getting no errors from the LC1. Problem is I spend quite a bit of time getting the map at cruise right and it's now way rich. So I got the lap top out and drove out for a bit more mapping. And there was the problem. My logged AFR on the laptop is out to the guage. I can't remeber if there is a way of calibrating this?
Anyway to check the AFR on the laptop I ran copilot (had downloaded the latest) and that was reading off too by about 1.0 lean. Thought Id have a go at letting Copilot sort the tune out. It made it very much worse so I guess I still won't be using that then.
Anyway First problem is getting the laptop and guage reading the same. I believe the guage is the true reading but have no way of checking that. Anyone any ideas?
I presume the laptop is reading from the analogue output via the Datalogit, then, not via the digital connection to the LC-1? You'll need to put the right parameters into whatever software you're using (FC-Edit?) - Copilot should come set with the right parameters by default IIRC.
Not sure.. I've never used the analogue out on the LC-1, only the digital (serial connection) to Copilot and the gauge (which read the same)
Yeah I'm using the analogue. The digital is running the guage. Will have a look at the parameters on FC edit. Is there a way to adjust copilot?
dont know if this is useful somehow?
l viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26377&p=325631#p325631 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26377&p=325631#p325631) l
Found it out when I was looking at hooking the LC to the emanage.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Yeah I'm using the analogue. The digital is running the guage. Will have a look at the parameters on FC edit. Is there a way to adjust copilot?
Easiest way would be to adjust the output from the LC-1 to what the Datalogit is expecting - just need to edit the min / max output from output 2 on the LC-1
Word of warning though - you need to check you dont have an earth / ground offset between the signal ground for the LC-1 and the datalogit inputs.
Cheers guys.
Steve. they are definately on the same ground. Will have a play at work this week. Not really messed with the settings on the LC1. Will be happy to just get FC edit working right as I'm pretty confident with that.
Ok taking a break on mapping at the weekend meet I did manage to gat a little time on my car.
So the thing that was holding up other mods, The crash bar. Fitted
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00444-Copy.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00445.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00449.jpg)
Now it isn't quite finished, but I needed it in place to get the WI tank finished. Once thats done and I've finished making the spare I will take them off for a tidy up, Galv dip and powder coat.
So I'm hoping to get to TTS this friday to finish the tank but here's some pics of how it is now.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00446.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00447.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00448-1.jpg)
Beautiful work as always Rob! s:D :D s:D
Ok. Update again.
WI tank is finished s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
So just waiting for the rewire. Am half way there. Had a set back with installing a shift light but there will be pictures later.
OK. Project Custard is officially on hold. I'm being made redundant and therefore don't have access to a machine shop to add the personnel touch. I will get a chance to do a few bits before I leave and I have a few parts on order that are bolt on but other than that I'm left with putting in the time designing stuff and trying to sort out parts getting made.
Fingers crossed I can get a better job with as good facilities. s:D :D s:D
Ah Rob sorry to hear that mate - all the best with finding a new job! s:D :D s:D
Mohammed
Hope you get sorted soon mate.
Oh crappety. s:( :( s:( Seems to be the way of things at the moment but I'm sure a bloke with your skills will find that dream job.
Good luck with the job hunt Bud, hope you get sorted soon
I'm sure you'll find something right up your alley.
I've seen the quality work you do on the MR2 parts! s:) :) s:)
Shame Rob, hope you find that something special to start earning again!
With your engineering skills, you should get a good job s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Hey Rob
Gutted to hear that, yesterday it was a rumour today its official??
Pain in the bum mate, well now you can spend more time trying to fix my car, so every cloud and all that s;) ;) s;)
Cheers Guys.
Was always official, and a bit political but hey, it happens.
Will have to see how it goes on the job front. Problem is I don't have the qualifications to match my talents. I just hope I can find somewhere that I can continue making things at. Anyway I have this weekend to get out of the way (mates wedding) then I'll get heavy with the applications. If there is nothing before Xmas I'll be down working on the MR2 and stuff.
sorry to hear the news Rob, hope you find a job that suits.
Bad news Rob. Really hope things get sorted for you quickly
Phil
Hey Rob - gutted for you mate. I know exactly how you feel with being in the same position only a few short months ago - just keep plugging away and you'll get something. I couldnt find anything and then the week I took this job I got offered another 2!!
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you!
Exaxctly been there as well recently. chin up bro. You are young and sexy.
Philster.
Just back from the US and have unpacked my bag full of car goodies.
So excited and also a little disappointed as some will have to wait till I can afford to get the machining done I would have done myself.
Couple of things I'm not going to list as they are a surprise for later.
So on the conveyor tonight we have
A stainless steel exhaust manifold flange
A full set of speed source ARB bushes
Two lots of speed source shifter bushings
A sandwich plate
A oil filler cap
Various Toyota parts including a manual aerial kit.
A mid length aerial
A full set of adjustable rear suspension links
An meguiers and 3M headlight polishing kits
Full 3M detailing kit.
3 K&N oil filters
Some awesome cool rubber bungs
And a J&S Interceptor! Well not quite. Had to send the board back but it will be in the post soon I'm sure.
So lots and lots to do now as well as all the stuff i was doing before I went. Going to have to get the garage heated I think.
Christmas s:) :) s:)
I know. Just need to get the dam battery tray made now.
Nice one Rob. Look forward to seeing the bits going on... and intrigued by the surprise items!
Ooh new bling, we like new bling!! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Ok so if I remember rightly, It's time to reveal the some of the surprise items.
For those of you that know I currently have a Likwidart front badge. This is temporary if this next project comes off.
So I really wanted a custom JDM badge but missed the SC GB one them. So I decided to try my own. First I bought a badge and took it apart. Then I polished it so that it was clear. (didn't quite work as I burnt it a bit, That's what the marks are. I know what I did wrong so on final production I'll do another)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC03534.jpg)
Next step add electroluminescence and an orange filter and we have
Normal light
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00548.jpg)
The Dark
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00549.jpg)
Long way from being finished but just so glad that this bit worked. Now I have to fit it all back into the body and and work out a way of sealing it.
Its different and I like it,maybe clear sealant will seal it?
Yeah I was thinking possibly a few blobs of super glue to hold it the silicone round it and rub off excess. Not sure if the silicone will be enough to hold on it's own but not sure if the glue will show. Anyway long way to go till then.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Yeah I was thinking possibly a few blobs of super glue to hold it the silicone round it and rub off excess. Not sure if the silicone will be enough to hold on it's own but not sure if the glue will show. Anyway long way to go till then.
You can buy clear liquid nails now - sticks anything s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Rob.
Looks awesome Rob, i hope it can withstand the first chav that comes along and tries to nick it.
Quote from: "philster_d"Looks awesome Rob, i hope it can withstand the first chav that comes along and tries to nick it.
Seeing as it will only be on when I'm driving it they will have to be able to run pretty fast. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I really like it ... hmmm .... i wonder s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "custardavenger"Quote from: "philster_d"Looks awesome Rob, i hope it can withstand the first chav that comes along and tries to nick it.
Seeing as it will only be on when I'm driving it they will have to be able to run pretty fast. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
what do you mean? its electric?
thought it was just glow in the dark paint, perhaps I misunderstood.
Electroluminescence (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroluminescence)- it needs a current.
Great idea Rob, bet the picture doesn't do it justice? s:D :D s:D
Yeah it is hard to take a good pic of it and with the burn marks on the plastic don't help. I have trimmed round the outside a bit better now.
Phill, Have you watched the Le Mans 24h at night. It's what they use to illuminate the numbers. It's currently powered by 4 AAA batteries but can wire it to 12v as well.
I did have a worry that it wouldn't look good. There are two types you can buy. Blue (off)/Green (on) or Pink (off)/White (on). As I wanted it orange I went with the pink/white sheet and an orange filter, I was just worried that it would look pink when off but it doesn't. They do say you shouldn't crease it but I have so I'm hoping there are no issues there.
Its cool, thanks for the education. After all I only studied micro-electronics at university. s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Phil
OK I'm very happy. Been a bit depressed that nothing was happening with my MR2. Been really struggling to get stuff fabricated. But today things took a turn for the better. I have found a top bloke who when I turned up and said I wanted a battery tray he said " ok, shall we make it now?" So that should get fitted this weekend, And then I can start rewiring the additional electrics and installing the knock guard and water injection.
Got a start on some other projects which if all goes well will be done for the Southern Softies Run.
Pictures to follow. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Good news Rob s:D :D s:D
Good stuff Rob! Glad it's moving forward again.
Finally got some pictures uploaded, Photobucket seems to have an issue with my PC
Here is my new shinny battery tray. I'll take some pics of it out some time.
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00616.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00615.jpg)
Very nice. That is one small battery! What's the blue box behind it?
Ah ha, The blue box. That houses fuses, relays and my water injection controller. I'm been desperate to get it fitted so I can get the WI running, I now have a lot of wiring to sort out to the front of the car to some switches and lights on the dash to control everything.
Actually on a Dataloggit side note, Can someone remind me how many external inputs there are on it? Not looked at it for ages and can't remember. Reason I ask is there is a boost output from the WI controlles and also a Knock output from the J&S Safeguard. I thought i mas as well use them.
Hi, I've just read through this thread from the beginning. Looks like an amazing build!
I see nobody responded to your question about acceptable duty cycles of injectors. From research I've done, I've found that the highest duty cycle you'd want to see on any high performance engine is 70-75%. If you exceed 80% on an engine that gets used at high revs and loadings you will definitely reduce the life expectancy of your injectors.
Hope to see some more updates soon and I'd love to be of help if I can.
Quote from: "Paulinio"Hi, I've just read through this thread from the beginning. Looks like an amazing build!
I see nobody responded to your question about acceptable duty cycles of injectors. From research I've done, I've found that the highest duty cycle you'd want to see on any high performance engine is 70-75%. If you exceed 80% on an engine that gets used at high revs and loadings you will definitely reduce the life expectancy of your injectors.
Hope to see some more updates soon and I'd love to be of help if I can.
Cheers Paulinio, Good to know there are some people checking this out.
There will be updates soon. Next is water injection then a proper map.
Well a long weekend working on the car. I didn't manage to get the rear beam powder coated in time so that will have to come off again s:( :( s:( , Also the mesh I ordered didn't come in time so I fitted the bumper with the original inserts (people were complaining about the big hole), Well after a drive back up I can tell that having that hole open makes a huge difference on the intake temp. I believe it's working exactly as I though and drawing lots of air through the engine cover. Those inserts won't be staying in long.
As well as putting the bumper on, the diffuser is now powder coated and fitted and looking great and also the rewire has started. Everything is connected up. I need to neaten up the dash end but everything is working, AEM powers up, Shift light fitted and fans now controlled in the front.
Only problem was that I didn't test the water injection pipe work and thought I'd be clever and fill it up in case I got time to go to TTS to get it set up. It leaked s:cry: :cry: s:cry: . Nevermind, it's all getting there.
Now I need to decide where to get it mapped, then fit the suspension, then a few other things I've been thinking off.
I know I don't have the cash but does anyone know the best place to get TRD stage 1 skirts? I was hoping for something more individual but just need a more aggressive look.
Just a couple of pics of my mysterious blue box
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00666.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00665.jpg)
(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/custardavenger/MR2/DSC00664.jpg)
Very impressive box you have Rob
I know, I'm very proud of my box and really glad you like it s:) :) s:)
very nice and tidy. Good work!
So The 2 is off the road. It looks like it's my turn for gearbox problems. Not confirmed but I will probably empty it next weekend and see what comes out. It still drives fin I just gave a new noise.
HI have just stripped a spare box I have to see if I can fix it. I was donated to me and I was told it had a problem but so far it seems fine. Just need to strip out 4th and 5th to get the shafts out. Bearings and gears look fine so far.
Isn't the common problem input shaft?
Bloody Hell. This still exists too. I guess its worth updating while I'm here.
So my care has been in storage for a long time while I have been working on my house/garage (no where near finished). I have lots and lots of new parts and keep toying with the idea of selling up, right up until I have to move the car out the way and I get in to that low driving position and hear that engine.
I'm currently building a Lada Niva for off roading and as I blew up the Berlingo, the Volvo has become my daily drive (it's not doing well, needs clutch and alls sorts). So with all those project out the way and the garage properly set up to work on cars i will bring the two and all the many spare parts up here and make the decision to either break or rebuild/finish what i started all those years ago.
Whats the timeframe for the house being finished Rob?
At the current rate, 7 years maybe (I say that every year). I'm at the point where I need to find a builder (and other trades) to do some jobs I can't do, Then it's down to me pulling my finger out and saving hard for the expensive things.
Best of luck with the house.
I am in construction and the last thing i want to do when i get home is pick up tools.
Cheers scotte, That main problem is being an engineer and wanting everything to be straight, level and perfect. I have to remind myself that finished trumps all of those. s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "custardavenger"Cheers scotte, That main problem is being an engineer and wanting everything to be straight, level and perfect. I have to remind myself that finished trumps all of those. s:) :) s:)
There is perfect and practically perfect.
The second one will do.
Atleast you arent an architect. They design things that guys like me then have to figure out how to actually build. Pretty sure the have no idea what a tape measure is either.
Rant over.
Quote from: "custardavenger"Cheers scotte, That main problem is being an engineer and wanting everything to be straight, level and perfect.
Totally relate to this fella.
Echoing Scotte's thoughts, a plumber friend of mine said "near enough is good enough for the building trade".
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "custardavenger"Cheers scotte, That main problem is being an engineer and wanting everything to be straight, level and perfect. I have to remind myself that finished trumps all of those. s:) :) s:)
There is perfect and practically perfect.
The second one will do.
Atleast you arent an architect. They design things that guys like me then have to figure out how to actually build. Pretty sure the have no idea what a tape measure is either.
Rant over.
I have to sort the costs out and these artichokes also know nothing about price or even are bothered
The number of those shows on the telly that stay in budget are few and far between !
I do nothing as exciting. My job is boring, drab, meaningless and unsatisfying. My professional skills are pointless and not challenging. I hate IT. Deeply. Biggest mistake of my life.
What is exciting is that you're back!
Hope you get stuff sorted and get the 2 out of storage.
Shnaz, unless you do something then nothing will change. You have to make the first move. What do you want to do? I changed my career twice, anything is possible.
Quote from: "mrzwei"Shnaz, unless you do something then nothing will change. You have to make the first move. What do you want to do? I changed my career twice, anything is possible.
It's alright s:) :) s:) It pays the bills and I've got a house, family and 3 cars. You have to suffer sometimes to enjoy other things. I do suffer 45-60 hrs a week, but then at least I get to see it's all worth it in the end. I consider myself very lucky to be honest despite the suffering.
But yeah if it was financially feasible I'd retrain as an engineer. Anything with cars will do as well. All day at work I just think cars. All aspects.
I do have the utmost respect for people like you, just changing your life to what makes you happy.