Hi, Im literaly standing in my garage now attempting to gut my pre-cats, but failing at the first hurdle!!
I've read the manual, which tells me that the "rear engine mounting bracket" is the jacking point.
Had a good old look round - is this the aforementioned bracket?! Looks abit flimsy to be holding up the rear of the car?!
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/greenax/Photo-0555.jpg)
Plus, can you only jack it up using a trolley jack? Just found out that the jack isn't behind the seats like the manual says s:evil: :evil: s:evil: and its way too low for the bottle jack I have!!
HEEEELLLLPPPPP!!!!
Forgot to ask, where on earth you put axle stands too? There doesn't seem to be anything sturdy under there to sit the car on?!
Sorry if im missing something blatently obvious! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Picture of official jacking points in This thread (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=15873&hilit=jacking+points&sid=8717cda90bb6b48b5c05da7a14067d1c).
Although I've never jacked there s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Could be tricky with a bottle jack if it doesn't have a sensible seat pad on it s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Axle stands under the v-grooves of each sill works for me (& front wheels chocked). Jacking where the strut bars meet the cross-member also works if, like me, you have jack-paranoia & prefer to axle stand one side at a time.
I've always used the front & rear center points (yes, the one you pictured) with a good quality hydraulic jack.
Jack stands on the knife edge sills where the dimples for the scissor jack are, though you'll need fairly flat topped jack stands or you'll gouge the sill. Use a shop rag to prevent damaging the paint on the knife edge.
That reminds me i need one of those electric jacks like Mark has.
/Phil.
me again...
just taking a look at the heat shield - rather the bolts securing them and it doesn't look good.
What are my options? The bolt on the left of the picture is extremely rusted and shallow, the one on the right is rusted also, but i can get a small amount of grip on that, although with my weight behind it and gingerly pulling it round, it still slips with a hex socket.....
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/greenax/Photo-0556.jpg)
any suggestions??
First, you'll want to sacrifice a chicken.
Then.. find a set of bolt extractors (reverse fluted sockets).. s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "aaronjb"First, you'll want to sacrifice a chicken.
Then.. find a set of bolt extractors (reverse fluted sockets).. s;) ;) s;)
...eh?! s:? :? s:?
that was just words to me and meant nothing s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Well, it's they're normally a few kgs in weight and covered in feathers, normally found in a farmyard... s;) ;) s;)
Oh, you meant bolt extractors! JFGI (http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=bolt+extractors&btnG=Google+Search&meta=) s;) ;) s;) s;) ;) s;) s;) ;) s;)
(http://www.mindserv.co.uk/mr2-images/lift_points.jpg)
Just on the jacking stuff (keep it all in one thread).
I've always just used the pantograph positions. Never used any axel stands. I'm guessing you could jack with the pantograph jack just to the side of the dimples where you're supposed to jack and put the axel stands at the positions indicated on the above image?
I usually just use a set of car ramps to work under the back of the car, with the front tyres chocked up.
Also, when trying to remove your bolts, you'll need some plusgas etc too, to help you to be able to remove the bolts. Especially when you get onto the three amigos or try to remove the bolts that connect the manifold onto the engine.
Second the use of ramps to work under the engine. Difficult to get it high enough with a jack.