Probably a silly idea, but after reading Mark's guide on how to empty and refill the cooling lines/system the corner cutter in me is thinking overtime s:roll: :roll: s:roll: .
Has anybody replaced main radiator without draining the whole system? Or, could it be even remotely achievable?
I was thinking put the front end up on axle stands, disconnect the rad inlet and outlet pipes and bung them quickly, removed old rad, don't fit new rad but connect it to either inlet or outlet and position it vertically, fill rad with coolant from (highest) open end, bung that, then fit radiator and reconnect remaining pipe. Obviously coolant will be lost and some air introduced, would it lose enough coolant/add enough air to then cause air locks?
Or am I just talking complete and utter tripe s:oops: :oops: s:oops: .
I don't think it will do any harm to do it that way Andrew,I'm sure I've heard people mention clamping pipes to the heater matrix etc.
In theory, it could be done by clamping off the inlet and outlet to minimise coolant loss, as long as there is physically room to get the clamps on. The heater is the hardest bit to bleed, so clamping those pipes saves a lot of grief when changing engines and stuff like that.
Cheers Bryan and Nige.
I've got my eye on a Koyo R2358 rad like you had Nige. My rad is the original, looking tired and the system is running a bit warm now since achieving the latest umph. The Koyo looks like a nice upgrade, did you have any problems fitting it Nige?
The only posible issue Andrew, is the clearance between the rad and the bodywork. I elongated the upper support brackets to give an extra few mm and that has worked up till now. The bleed point is slightly different to the stock item, but no problem at all to use. Been very pleased with my Koyorad and it makes perfect sense to use one as an upgrade and replacement at the same time.
yep should work
as nige said the heater matrix is the bitch, main rad should bleed relatively ok, definately clamp the heater matrix hoses