Apologies if this has already been covered, a search of 'seafoam' brought up no hits.
Anyway, just been searching on google '1zz-fe oil consumption' and came up with this;
m http://www.celicahobby.com/ubbthreads/s ... art=1&vc=1 (http://www.celicahobby.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=1953279449&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1) m
Now my car uses a little oil but the precats haven't gone, so I read this and thought it sounds worth a try.
Unfortunately it seems seafoam isn't available in the UK.
Anybody tried anything similar with any success?
Thanks, James
I've not heard of it before myself but you know what they say, "if it sounds too good to be true..."
its a cleaner to remove gunk from yoru engine, not an additive
it won;t help
But I thought the problem was potentially caused by a build up of gunk?
Quote from: "d1bram"But I thought the problem was potentially caused by a build up of gunk?
why?
I suppose it is possible that gunk is A cause, and if you're using oil it could be worth a try.
IF you can get hold of the stuff.
<edit> And it IS available in the UK ... on ebay. linky (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=seafoam&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&_odkw=ducati+engine&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313)
As per the link at the top?
I understand there is no definitive answer on this, but that oval bore syndrome was a result of a poor ring design which caused the rings to foul up?
Anyway, reading more detail about seafoam, it essentially sounds like it works as an oil flush, it can be bought on eBay for about £20, so perhaps worth a go? Doesn't sound as though there any negative effects
m http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html (http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html) m
Not suggesting this is some kind of revelation, but perhaps just something worth a try on older higher mile motors as it may reduce oil consumption and save money in the long run against regular top ups. Certainly that thread I posted at the top seems to make a case for it.
on an older motor you run teh risk of removing deposits that were actually stopping leaks
and making things worse
that said I use a flushing oil once a year on all my cars, its quite scary how much extra shit it gets out
Yeah, was thinking about a flush anyway to get some decent oil in there.
Reading the oils thread I was thinking of something with a higher temperature viscosity.
Reading up and reasoning it seems reasonable that as our engines age, clearances will increase and that does account for some of the oil usage, but anything you can do to slow it has to be worthwhile.
The manual says the MR2 can use anything upto 1l per 600miles anyway which seems a lot to me anyhow.
Hey, I've owned my MR2 since it had 3990 miles on it, it's a 2003 facelift.
It now has 80,000 miles on it, gets service every 10,000 miles, I use flush every time I change the oil and have only ever used fully synthetic oil.
I was using Mobil Edge 0w30 but have recently switched to 5w30.
The engine uses no oil (firmly touching wood right now), she runs sweet all the time.
So this may not fix anything, but it may save one or two engines ... how many it will c*ck up by cleaning away deposits that are actually helping no-one knows.
But I would recommend always using an engine flush at service time, and always using a quality fully synthetic oil.
Some people argue that Mobil isn't the best quality, but the evidence of my engine shows it ain't too bad s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
After recently swapping out my gearbox, I can recommend you using a decent quality oil in there too and change it out regularly too.
If I were to start again I'd probably do that every 30,000 miles, but what came out of my old gearbox at 80,000 miles (it was refreshed at 40,000 miles) was clean enough to see through.
Mine is running great, but is using oil at about the rate the manual states.
Am hoping I can slow the usage with a good flush and using a better quality oil, was think 10w40 but not sure if that will give the necessary low temperature protection.
Pre-cats are coming out tomorrow, so that will be one less thing to worry about anyhow s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
2000 model car, 110,000 miles, never used a drop of oil.
Like the idea of a flush though, may try that next time
Quote from: "uktotty"2000 model car, 110,000 miles, never used a drop of oil.
Like the idea of a flush though, may try that next time
Precats in or out?
My car was serviced by a 'local garage' just before I bought it, so reckon the oil in it will be crap tbh. They didn't notice the nackered radiator, and it was losing coolant, not hellish quick, but quick enough for someone who knows what they were doing to notice.
So I'm hoping a flush & decent quality oil will help matters.
Quote from: "d1bram"Anyway, reading more detail about seafoam, it essentially sounds like it works as an oil flush, it can be bought on eBay for about £20, so perhaps worth a go? Doesn't sound as though there any negative effects
m http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html (http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html) m
Not suggesting this is some kind of revelation, but perhaps just something worth a try on older higher mile motors as it may reduce oil consumption and save money in the long run against regular top ups. Certainly that thread I posted at the top seems to make a case for it.
So then James, are you going to try this or have the sceptics put you off?
Had my 'W' reg for months but for various reasons have only used it in anger in the last fortnight (after finally getting around to changing the oil and removing the pre-cats).
I have now discovered that:
a) I absolutely fekkin love it - never would have thought a car could be as much fun as a motorbike!! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
b) It uses oil at a rate (circa a litre every 500 miles) that is truly shocking s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
In terms of thicker oil, I tried 5w30 first, but, revving to around 6000rpm (stationary and with a hot engine - obviously) would blow big plumes of smoke out!!
So have now gone for 15w50 Mobil 1 - which has certainly reduced the smoking considerably (though does not seem to have affected oil use - however I think it is also leaking from the camchain tensioner plate)
I know there are potential concerns over using 15w oil in winter, but it would seem that there are people in the states using it in much colder winters than ours without problems as evidenced here:
m http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... mber=57539 (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=57539) m
I used 15W50 all year round in mine with no issues
Quote from: "KTM_RIDER"a) I absolutely fekkin love it - never would have thought a car could be as much fun as a motorbike!! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Same here!
I will probably give the Seafoam a go, when I've run out of 5w30 I will do an oil change, using sea foam first, then go for a heavier weight oil.
What are you planning long term with your car? This is so frustrating, as the car is perfect otherwise and has no problems getting on cam at 4k etc... I suppose it's no different to running a 2t bike lol.
Markiii, did you go to 15W50 because yours used oil? Or another reason.
IIRC Mark just felt that anything lower made the engine too clattery - plus he was running a turbo for a fair length of time (where it can help to have a higher top weight, with a smaller viscosity gap)
Quote from: "d1bram"What are you planning long term with your car? This is so frustrating, as the car is perfect otherwise and has no problems getting on cam at 4k etc... I suppose it's no different to running a 2t bike lol.
Plan is mainly to try to keep the thing on the road (where it spent last night in fact, with the back end on ramps s:) :) s:) ) without spending too much!
So, short term get it through the MOT - it failed on emissions, new cheapo ebay Cat going on today.
Longer term - try to cut down the oil use, so please do keep us up to date on the seafoam if you try it.
Like the 2stroke reference - my Yamaha 350LC used to drink a litre of 2stroke every 500 miles, which is about where my 2 is at the mo - perhaps I should just put 2 stroke in the petrol tank when I fill up.
Quote from: "KTM_RIDER"Like the 2stroke reference - my Yamaha 350LC used to drink a litre of 2stroke every 500 miles, which is about where my 2 is at the mo - perhaps I should just put 2 stroke in the petrol tank when I fill up.
LOL!
I had a RGV, that would do 300miles to 1 litre of oil, and 25mpg ish s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Will try the seafoam, it does claim to restore rings, so might as well give it a go!
Took the car round to a mechanic friend last night and he does think it has a slight leak somewhere on the righthand side, he's now doing the precats next week so will clean the block up then too.
At the moment I have some cheapo 5w30 semi synthetic oil, once that is used I up I will try the seafoam and then a better quality (heavier weight) oil.
Long term, if things get worse with it, there's always a 2ZZ s:D :D s:D
Just bought a can of this of eBay, so will be trying it soon and will update on results.
Decided I'm going to go with some decent oil when I change too, I think Silkolene Pro S 5W40 will be the job s:) :) s:)
look forward to your Seafoam results with interest.
Tried some Redex oil treatment (thought it was worth a punt at under 4 quid). Seemed to have an effect at first - oil level apparently not budging after 200 miles - but after 500 miles was back to normal = roughly 1 litre gone.
With this sort of drinking habit keeping it in Mobil 1 15 50 would be pointlessly expensive, so currently chucking in Carlube fully synth 5w40 (around 4 quid a litre at Wilkinsons or Morrisons)
I've decided similar, IF this works, it's top oil from now on with changes every 5k, if it doesn't I'll keep her running and topped up with motor factors cheapie stuff.
Of course an engine change would solve the problem, but I have better things to spend £1300 on and a 2zz conversion is too much to spend atm.
Fingers crossed!
as mentioned elsewhere, have racked up 3000 miles in the last 6 weeks and I do drive the car fairly hard (once warmed up). As the car's only real vice, I can certainly live with 500 miles per litre oil consumption - just hope it doesn't start getting any worse any time soon.
Has held steady at this rate so far.
On the plus side:
4 litres every 2000 miles = an easy way to keep the car in fresh oil, without the faff of a proper oil change s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Sticking to mid range oil, in terms of cost it's only like losing around 3mpg in fuel consumption.
Ran the car with seafoam in since Saturday morning, doing 50miles or so before changing to Mobil 1 0w40 fully synth today.
Sort of wish I'd ran a week or so with the seafoam now, but might run with it in the oil all the time (as apparently you can) until the next change.
Immediate effects, the car seems no longer to smoke (could be the fully synth not showing), and the oil I took out was BLACK with filth. It had only been 3k miles or so since it's last change (was done just before I bought it) so I would like to think the seafoam has cleared out some of the gunk in the sump.
Only bugger was the poor location of the sump plug. With the car up on ramps the plug is not the lowest point in the sump.... Jacked it up at the front too to drain it the best I could, but silly place to put the plug IMO.
I agree with "if it sounds too good to be true, then it usually is"!
Not even 2 days, I put it in Sat morning and then changed the oil Sunday afternoon, with about 50miles inbetween.
According to the instructions, you need to do at least 30miles for it to do anything.
Thinking about it now though, I wish I'd have ran it longer as the bumf on their website does say that dissolving residue etc is a gradual process.
So today I have stuck some in again, and will run it for 3k or so until my next oil change.
Yes, it goes straight in the oil filler, you put in 1.5fl oz per quart of oil.... damn americans lol.
For reference, that translates to 6fl oz (most measuring jugs have fl oz on them) for the MR2.
Results? Well it's too early to tell, but after 150ish miles it doesn't seem to have used any. I say seem, as measuring the oil it is still right up near the top of the dipstick (I would expect some level drop immediately after a change, but only slight), but personnally I find the 2's dipstick difficult to be acurate with; I will know for sure how the situation stands after 4-500miles, whereupon I would previously have been a litre down.
The car also seems not to smoke like it did.
Remember though, I have also changed to 0w40 fully synth, so this might contribute to any improvement; ideally I should have only the one variable, but I decided to throw everything at it once as rolling around on the floor doing oil changes in winter isn't my idea of fun!
So in summary, no definitive answer yet, but I remain hopefull.
You can make the dipstick easier to read. l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=28331&hilit=+dipstick (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=28331&hilit=+dipstick) l
sorry for the lack of updates, been a bit busy lately.
Anyway, unfortunately it is not looking too favourable, BUT I am also unable to give a definitive opinion yet.
Basically, I checked the oil on friday night (after approx 350miles) and it took 700ml to fill it. HOWEVER I seem to still have just under a litre left (say 900ml). So it look like I had only put 3400ml in after the change rather than the full 3700ml, either way, it's used some, but possibly only about 4-500ml which is an improvement for my car.
Unfortunately, I dropped a major bollock here.... I forgot to replace the oil filler cap!!!
Wife did about 16miles in it saturday and sunday, sunday aft I decided to check the level again in the daylight...
You can imagine my engine bay was a bit of a mess! Fortunately the oil filler cap was still sitting where I left it, and there was still plenty of oil in the sump.
So disaster avoided but I can't really gauge oil usuage at the moment because of this!
I will fill to the top of the dipstick at the weekend, then reset the trip and start monitoring again.
And thanks Bryan, something to consider.
Cheers, James
You're not the only one. I did that once on another car a few years back.
Quotepossibly only about 4-500ml which is an improvement for my car.
would be a significant improvement for mine also so still watching with great interest, although a new 'main' car to play with means I'll probably not be using my 2 now still spring.
QuoteUnfortunately, I dropped a major bollock here.... I forgot to replace the oil filler cap!!!
Yeah been there and done that on my Honda CBX250RS circa 1989. At least with a bike you tend to notice it alot quicker (and preferably before it's on your tyres or brakes s:scared: :scared: s:scared: )
QuoteWife did about 16miles in it saturday and sunday, sunday aft I decided to check the level again in the daylight...
Phew...........very lucky to spot it so soon, doesn't bear thinking about if she'd been on her way to Scotland.........
Yeah was a real heart sinker of a moment when I lifted the boot...
A mate did it on a GSXR750 recently and was very lucky to stay rubber side down!
I'm really not expecting miracles here and am prepared for disappointment, BUT I might as well percevere now as I'm sure that IF this stuff is doing any good then the longer it is in there the better the results will be.
Well, its not looking good, 150miles in and the dipstick is reading about 2/3.
I think it's time I realise I bought a total lemon and look at other solutions.
I'm not going to sell and claim it's all good (like what has happened to me s:x :x s:x ), so my options seem to be sell for a loss or new engine.
Wish I'd bought a MX5 now! s:evil: :evil: s:evil: As this x plate car looks like it is going to have cost me £4.5k before too long.
Quote from: "Mad Matt"You're not the only one. I did that once on another car a few years back.
Yeah, been there done that. Now put the filler cap over the lower boot catch so it hits if I forget. Thats saved me a couple of times already.....
I'm having similar oil-burning issues. Someone told me to try Yamaha Ring Free. It is available where Yamaha outboard boat motors are sold. It goes in the gas tank, and supposedly frees the rings (as the name says). I've got SeaFoam in the oil and Ring Free in the gas. I have seen no improvement in oil consumption over the last 300 miles, but I'm going to continue the treatment for another 1200 miles just so I can say I gave the products a fair trial.
Yamaha - is that 2 stroke ?
I am not convinced that these additives do any good to be honest unless the rings are really caked and solid in the groves of the piston. Then you have to ask why, is it due to the fact that the bores are worn and the engine is burning excessive oil causing the rings to seize up? It really sounds like some sort of "trick Sh*t" like what was sold years ago when you popped it in through the plug hole to seal the bores.
norman
Looking at a trade in, or sell on for a loss now.
TBH I bougth the car as a third car, I had a company car and the wife has her car. I've since changed jobs and elected to take a car allowance rather than a car, so the MR2 is being pressed into everyday use, and really I fancy something a bit newer etc as my everyday car.
I paid £3500 for the car, have since fitted a new rad, had the AC gassed up and carried out some minor bits and bobs... wipers, oil change etc...
I'm thinking if I knock the cost of a replacement engine of (say £800) the price I paid as an opening price then surely it's a decent buy for a competent DIYer?
I've not got the skill, time, space etc to swap the engine.
Of course it runs fine if you're happy to just top up the oil weekly, it's just that I don't know when I'm going to need to go away for several days in it for work covering hundreds of miles.
Quote from: "d1bram"Looking at a trade in, or sell on for a loss now.
I paid £3500 for the car, have since fitted a new rad, had the AC gassed up and carried out some minor bits and bobs... wipers, oil change etc...
I'm thinking if I knock the cost of a replacement engine of (say £800) the price I paid as an opening price then surely it's a decent buy for a competent DIYer?
Was going to hang back on the brutal honesty, untill I realised that a p/x would have to be your best bet.
Brutal honesty: there are around 20 roadsters advertised at 2.5k or under on Autotrader and Ebay at the moment (and I bet that according to the sellers every single one doesn't burn a drop of oil
honest guv - not that many prospective buyers are going to be asking).
Therefore your perfect - but just needs a new engine - example would surely have to be priced at around 1.5k to attract any interest and you would then probably have to suffer the further pain of being offered even less (all on the assumption that you wish to declare it's severe oil burning habit to a private buyer).
Whereas if you p/x I'm guessing that you would be happy to plead ignorance (on the basis that it's obviously ok for you the little man to get one over on the thieving scumbag car dealer for a change). Would have thought you could get a decent p/x against a MX5 or a facelift roadster, as the used car market tends to be slower moving at this time of year and probably more so on convertibles.
Cheers bud, brutal honesty appreciated and agreed with.
Plan is trade in against a 4 year old Mk3 MX-5 I think, circa £8k.
Conscience appeased by the fact they will be making a usefull profit from the car I buy and most likely offload the MR2 at auction for what they can get! In fact I have a mate who works for a large dealer network and I know this is how they work and would not be too bothered even if they did take a hit on the MR2.
Either way, your are correct in that I would 100% sell it fully disclosed to a private buyer.
I'm even willing to give the people who sold it to me the benefit of the doubt... perhaps the lass who had it pottering around doing a couple of thousand miles a year had not suffered oil loss, and it is me driving it how it was built to be driven triggering it.
Any idea what I should look for a trade in value?
and teh poor sap buying it at auction will realise they are buying a lemon how?
Well my experience of auction is that you buy assuming the worst and pay accordingly. At Auction I would guess it will go for circa £2k or less, at this price the 'poor sap' can budget for a recon engine and still have a reasonably priced car.
I paid £3500 meanwhile in good faith, remember I have had this car less than 3 months. I'm not going to try and pass it on at that price and claim it's all good.
If I sell to the dealer at a trade price, they take on board the car any inherent issues it may have, it is then their descretion what to do with it.
Remember, all the while it is using oil at a rate which toyota consider 'acceptable', why should I operate on some kind of moral high ground beyond this?
operate at whatever moral ground you feel comfortable with
just don't kid yourself no-one is going to get shafted
Less shafted than I if the car goes at trade price!
If I tell the dealer I trade the car into; 'the car uses oil at the rate toyota state in the manual', I have fully disclosed the information, he may even decide to pay me less as a result, but will the next guy down the food chain be privvy to the same info?
Or if I sold it private, for say £1500, what's to stop the next guy selling it on as being perfect and making a £1500 profit out of someone elses naivity?
Basically I've ended up with a car which I want to change for other reasons, but that I personally don't think is 100% so don't want to sell on private as such. Traders take cars in P/X on a bought as seen basis and build the potential for problems into their pricing. Some are perfect, some less so. My car runs 100% but needs regular oil top ups, I'm sure that it's not the worst car passing through trade!
other option is I shell out £1200ish for a new engine fitted, I could then sell private for £3kish, but then it's the wrong time of year to sell and it could take months. So I'm back to trading in, and I still get offered the same money as I would before shelling out the £1200.
I could fix it, sell it on and some other major problem develop.
What would you do with it?
if its unfixable you either replace teh engine and take teh hit
or leave teh problem for someone else to get screwed with.
neither is pleasant depends on your moral compass, I'm not even sure which I'd choose.
however if your still running teh 0w40 your previous posts imply, I;d start by using a 15w50 and see if things improve. As I've always maintained a 0 weight oil is way way to thin for these engines
Surely the 0 refers to cold temperature viscosity and 40 the high temperature viscosity.
So in simple terms, compared to the recommended 5w30 more runny at low temperatures but less runny at high temperature.
I appreciate your suggestion of changing to 15w50, but don't really want to be faffing around with a further oil change, besides, I would like to change sooner rather than later to get it sorted before christmas.
'or leave the problem for someone else to get screwed with.' - I'm reasoning here that the next owner will either be a large dealership, who can swallow it up without blinking (and probably still make profit in the transaction) OR someone buying it el cheapo at auction; in which case I feel they can budget for an engine swap.
Right or wrong, who knows?
I do appreciate your opinions though.
There's no right or wrong answer in this, but it is very easy to criticise from the outside looking in. At the end of the day you can't justify the expense/hassle of a new engine (which isn't guaranteed to fix the problem in one go, the replacement may well have similar issues) so it is up to you what you do now, and trading it into a garage seems the fairest way to do this IMO.
can you publish teh reg if you get rid at least that way we know which one to avoid
Yes I'll do that.
Thanks Sam.
End of the day, the last owner had the car 4 years, I think I am being a little generous assuming the problem may have only developed during my 3 months of ownership! And they were happy to sell it to me, for good money face to face, not something I'd do.
Returning to an earlier question, does anyone have an idea of trade in value on my car? 2000 Xreg, AC + hardtop + leather.
Parkers guide seems to require a subscription these days, got a value elsewhere of £3200 for trade in, but this seems extremely optimistic.
By the way, if I was still running my car as a weekend toy as originally intended, running it as is would not be an issue.
if it were me I'd sell teh hardtop and leather seperately, it won;tmake that much difference ot teh value
but seriously for £40 try some thicker oil first you may be pleasantly surprised
Quote from: "markiii"but seriously for £40 try some thicker oil first you may be pleasantly surprised
Definitely agree you will be amazed at how much quieter and smoother everything feels
Has that been known to reduce oil consumption?
Nothing ventured I suppose. Will still want to shift the car though, and might not keep it long enough to see if it works.
yes it has
mine really didn;t like the factory spec oil even from new
movied to 15W50 and its been fine ever since, cars now 9 years old and too my knowledge is still running fine
Just to be clear Markiii, was your car using oil before changing to 15w50?
Selling the hardtop may be a good option, do you know how easy are the centre clamp posts to remove?
I'll leave the leather though, as don't really want to go about sourcing replacements.
All said however, I'm going to go have a look at a couple of MX-5's this weekend, if the right car comes up I'd just change and cut my losses as is.
Actually Markiii's car was turboed a lot of that time, so boost pressure would exarcebate any leak-down.
So if he wasn't using any oil with that stuff, then it sounds like a reaonable course to take.
Mind it does sound like you've fallen out with the car so i can undestand you wanting to move on.
If your car is using so much oil could you not just add some 15w 50 to it rather than carry out a full oil change? Don't know but if it's using so much then it may be worth a shot.
Personally I'd try the oil, even if I was still going to sell it on. I've tried telling garages about problems with low value trade ins in the past and found it to be a pointless exercise. Now I leave it up to them to check the car if they want to, unless they ask about any problems, but they never have!
I've had (or we've had in the family) the MR2 Mk3, MX5 (can't remember which ones) and a Fiat Barchetta.
Both the Fiat and the MR2 have been daily commutes, both short and long distance and never let me down. The MX5 had some problems but not too bad.
My MR2 is a facelift, so if you go for an MR2 again I'd go for one of those as they don't seem to get the oval bore problem in general. The MX5 was slightly more practical (it's got a boot) but quite different to the MR2 until the MX5 had its suspension uprated. After that it was a little closer in feeling.
The Fiat was a lot of fun and different again. It's also got a better boot than the MX5 we had.
I sat in an MG-TF but didn't feel comfortable with the driving position and of course I'd need to make sure the head gasket had been properly sorted.
A mate's doing up a SMART roadster at the moment, it sounds like fun but they don't appear to last well.
Just thought I'd throw in a bit of personal experience of small two seaters, I'm sure everyone's got an opinion and I certainly don't expect everyone to agree but I was just hoping it would either confirm your thinking or give you knew ideas!
Hi all.
Mine is a smoker too.
I have been using 5w 30 and getting about 200 miles per litre.
I switched to 10W 40 420 miles ago , (Tesco own brand for £18 for 4 litres!, a bit of a cheapskate I know, but I was fed up buying expensive oils and then spraying them over the road!)
I just checked the dipstick.
One side of the dipstick is still on full and the other side says half full.
So, depending on which side is right it is either exactly the same usage or problem solved.
Not very helpful, I know. I am going to try another reading after I drive home from work and let the car stand for 15 mins.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Actually Markiii's car was turboed a lot of that time, so boost pressure would exarcebate any leak-down.
So if he wasn't using any oil with that stuff, then it sounds like a reaonable course to take.
Mind it does sound like you've fallen out with the car so i can undestand you wanting to move on.
Not fell out with it, but I have set my heart on something newer.
As said, I bought the MR2 as a third car, now I don't have a company car I fancy spending a little more and getting something a little newer. Plus the MX-5 sport has heated seats so that's a bonus s:) :) s:)
Thanks for the run down there Matt, tbh I love the look of the barchetta, but they're LHD only aren't they?
MGF I wouldn't fancy and the smart is just a little too left field for me.
Be interested to hear back from Markiii over whether or not his car was previously using oil.
Yeah you're right the Barchetta is LHD only, although there are a few good conversions in the UK. They also stopped production in 2004, I think.
The MX5 started well but has had its ups and downs (relatively speaking) but I quite like the latest incarnation. A friends got an H reg 1.6 turbo (semi factory fitted) which is a nice car but perhaps a little old for you!
Someone may correct me but i think the lower reading is usually correct sorry.
Quote from: "michaelasaunders"Hi all.
Mine is a smoker too.
I have been using 5w 30 and getting about 200 miles per litre.
I switched to 10W 40 420 miles ago , (Tesco own brand for £18 for 4 litres!, a bit of a cheapskate I know, but I was fed up buying expensive oils and then spraying them over the road!)
I just checked the dipstick.
One side of the dipstick is still on full and the other side says half full.
So, depending on which side is right it is either exactly the same usage or problem solved.
Not very helpful, I know. I am going to try another reading after I drive home from work and let the car stand for 15 mins.
Quote from: "michaelasaunders"I switched to 10W 40 420 miles ago , (Tesco own brand for £18 for 4 litres!, a bit of a cheapskate I know, but I was fed up buying expensive oils and then spraying them over the road!)
And it dosent concern you that you are dumping oil all over public highways?
Quote from: "d1bram"Has that been known to reduce oil consumption?
Not sure, but changing to 15w50 has been known to
NOT reduce oil consumption, as I have mentioned previously on this forum - including in my first few posts in this thread!!
To recap my experience with my 97000 mile W reg (bought in Feb) was:
1) Used it just for 10 - 20 mile trips for about 800 miles, sometimes quite hard, but often more sympathetically untill I could be arsed to fish out the bleedim pre-cats and change the very black oil that came with the car. During this 800 miles the car seemed to use about 1 litre, though I wasn't checking as rigourously, so may have been more.
2) Remove pre-cats, change oil to Mobil 5w30 and then drive it hard and long distance like the ex Honda Fireblade rider I am s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: - result 500 miles per litre.
3) change oil to Mobil 1 15w50 & continue to drive it as Mr. Toyota intended = no change in oil consumption. My only consolation is that now on 101k and oil consumption has not got any worse.
So personally I wouldn't bother with the oil change.
A question - does it blow any smoke out at high rpm?
With 5w30 mine would smoke very noticeably when revving to about 6000rpm (when checking a nicely hot engine in a deserted lay-by) but when I switched to 15w50 this stopped. So based on my experience, if you want to give the mythical auction buyer of your car a fighting chance put some THIN oil in it. Other than that it's the old adage buyer beware. Anyone cosidering the purchase of an ageing sports car such as yours should have the good sense to read up about them thoroughly first (like I didn't) - it's what this forum is for surely. Personally I don't regret a moment of my own 'lemon' purchase but then it did cost me under 2k and is not my daily driver.
If you do go over to the darkside and get an MX5, don't be a stranger on the forum - let us all know what you think of it etc.
Personally I blame Toyota for making something that is almost uniquely irresistable but has a deep, fundamental and hidden flaw.
kinda like Angelina Jolie with HIV.
To the poster who is on 200 miles a litre - s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: You have my sympathy.
Quote from: "nelix"Quote from: "michaelasaunders"I switched to 10W 40 420 miles ago , (Tesco own brand for £18 for 4 litres!, a bit of a cheapskate I know, but I was fed up buying expensive oils and then spraying them over the road!)
And it dosent concern you that you are dumping oil all over public highways?
Hmmm - I missed that bit
Quote from: "nelix"Quote from: "michaelasaunders"I switched to 10W 40 420 miles ago , (Tesco own brand for £18 for 4 litres!, a bit of a cheapskate I know, but I was fed up buying expensive oils and then spraying them over the road!)
And it dosent concern you that you are dumping oil all over public highways?
Ok, dont take it literally, spraying was a bad description, its burning.
In any case, If things have not improved I will try out the 15W 50 for my own piece of mind.
However, I do use my car for commuting every day, and I dont have any other issues other then oil refills. So I am not considering a new car or engine swap.
was very interested to find this (was actually pricing up a warranty for my other car)
m http://www.reliabilityindex.com/buying-guides/view/967 (http://www.reliabilityindex.com/buying-guides/view/967) m
specifically:
Checklist
Make sure there's enough luggage space for your needs; there isn't much.
Ensure you're happy with the driving position, which is low.
Damaged rear window means a whole new hood - which is costly.
On pre-2001 cars, the pre-cat in the exhaust manifold can break up, damaging the engine; revised manifolds are available.
If the car is an import, ensure it has a category 1 security system; many cars don't.
Oil consumption can be high once the car has covered 40,000 miles; a litre every 600 miles isn't exceptional.
Most examples are cherished, but not all. So check for evidence of poor crash repairs and cheap resprays.
The only place outside of this forum where I have found any reference to oil use (or pre-cats I think). So the info is out there (as well as on here) and therefore I reckon you could sell your car even privately with a fairly clear conscience whether you disclosed the issue or not.
Thanks for all the replies, some interesting input and opinions.
I too have seen that report before, and it does echo what is stated in the manual... anything upto 1l/600miles is normal. Therefore I agree I can sell the car conscience clear.
To reiterate, it does run perfect, is pre cat free, and needing the oil topped up is it's only vice.
I have just decided I fancy a change.
Rang up about a car at lunchtime, and funnily enough it is at a Toyota dealer, so they can lob a new short block in if they so desire lol
While on the subject of oil usage. There was a fairly new Mini Cooper S that was in the family until recently. It went through oil at an alarming rate (around 1l per 500 miles IIRC) but BMW, as Toyota, said that was normal. It was still under warranty so they put something in the oil to trace where it was going and took the head off and replaced a few bits but it never really improved, hence it being traded in.
How "this is normal" and we're taking it apart tally is beyond me but there you go.
It was a nice car to drive so a shame to see it go. Didn't have the problem with it's predecessor which was the older supercharged version.
Probably doesn't help you but I can say it was bought from new and cost more than for and a half grand!
I'll say this for the MX5, it's better looking than the MR2...... in my opinion :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "michaelasaunders"Hi all.
Not very helpful, I know. I am going to try another reading after I drive home from work and let the car stand for 15 mins.
Just to finish what I said I was going to do.
I had a more thorough check on my oil level and I am at 5/8th full at 430 miles.
So, for me there has been a small improvement.
Mike
I think we have lost the plot here the topic was Seafoam!!!!!! Mods????????
norman
Quote from: "normanh"I think we have lost the plot here the topic was Seafoam!!!!!! Mods????????
norman
no it wasn't.
the topic was:
Seafoam - A solution to oil consumption? Which surely makes oil consumption just as much the subject under discussion as Seafoam.
A check back through the vast majority of posts shows that oil consumption is indeed being discussed at length s:) :) s:)
I see no reason to impose moderation here unless we're going to descend into semantics.
Those participating are clearly benefiting from the discussion.
Quote from: "michaelasaunders"Quote from: "michaelasaunders"Hi all.
Not very helpful, I know. I am going to try another reading after I drive home from work and let the car stand for 15 mins.
Just to finish what I said I was going to do.
I had a more thorough check on my oil level and I am at 5/8th full at 430 miles.
So, for me there has been a small improvement.
Mike
How is the car running/sounding on the cheaper oil?
Sorry about the delay in getting back to you, I just did a 400 mile trip to Wetherby in the '2' to buy a hard top from Madlil (Andrew).
In regards to your question, I have not noticed any significant changes yet, however its only been in there a short time.
Regardless, I am switching to Castrol Magnatec 10w 40 on my next change as Tesco are selling it for the same price as the cheap stuff.
Any more info to share on this, I will post in the 'what oil are you using' forum.
Mike
you might want to do a search on this forum for 'maganatec' before sticking some in your engine - it is not very highly regarded s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Personally I have used magnatec for 60k in a VAG 1.9TDI and for 30k in a BMW motorcycle with no issues, but that's german engineering for you.
According to your posts you seem to have gone from 200 miles a litre to more than 800 miles a litre just by changing to 10/40???
Quote from: "KTM_RIDER"you might want to do a search on this forum for 'maganatec'
on the other hand spelling it properly first might help.
Quote from: "KTM_RIDER"you might want to do a search on this forum for 'maganatec' before sticking some in your engine - it is not very highly regarded s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Personally I have used magnatec for 60k in a VAG 1.9TDI and for 30k in a BMW motorcycle with no issues, but that's german engineering for you.
According to your posts you seem to have gone from 200 miles a litre to more than 800 miles a litre just by changing to 10/40???
From a full tank of oil with 4 litres at 0 miles to 5/8th full at 430 miles = 268.75 miles per litre if I have done my maths right?
Quote from: "michaelasaunders"From a full tank of oil with 4 litres at 0 miles to 5/8th full at 430 miles = 268.75 miles per litre if I have done my maths right?
Erm, presumably you are getting a reading of 5/8ths on the dipstick???
the dipstick range is 1.3 litres I believe. meaning the oil level would have dropped 3/8ths (on the dipstick) which is equivalent to having used just under half a litre.
If you had truly used 3/8ths of your full engine oil capacity (i.e. used circa 1.5 litres of oil) before topping up you would probably have rumbling main bearings by now - which is why I was curious that you were able to apparently quite happily run an engine drinking a litre every 200 miles s:) :) s:)
OK I am really confused now.
If the engine oil capacity is just under 4 litres, why would the dipstick only show a range of 1.3L ?
Quote from: "michaelasaunders"If the engine oil capacity is just under 4 litres, why would the dipstick only show a range of 1.3L ?
the dipstick max and min levels cover the safe operating limits for the engine (which are somewhere around a minimum of 2.5 litres and a maximum of 4 litres depending on the specific oil capacity for your engine)
You seem to imply that you think the dipstick should have a 4 litre range - this would mean that only halfway on the dipstick would already equate to a dangerously low oil level liable to incurr engine damage.
OK, thanks, that it makes sense to me now.
Actualy, now that I think of it, thats really foolish of me as coolant have a max/min and a reserve.
So you are correct, I am doing approx 800 miles per litre.
I cant say for sure what I was doing on 5w 30 now, other than I am pretty sure my consumption has slowed.
Apologies for the mistake.
wouldn;t touch magnatec with your bargepole
Well I checked and topped up properly today...
Consumption remains firmly around the 600miles per litre mark (put in about 400mls having done just short of 250miles). Funnily, this is exactly what is stated in the manual as being 'normal'.
So I can conclude at this point;
Seafoam has made no difference to my car some 5/600miles since the oil change, neither has the change to 0w40 fully synth, the car runs perfectly however and happily it no longer smokes at all.
BUT, after today it looks like I am having a change of car.
I have to admit, regular oil top ups are a factor, but mainly I wanted something a touch newer and more practical for work as I am now getting a decent car allowance in lieu of a company car.
I've gone over to the darkside and done a deal on a MX-5, 56 reg, 31k miles 2.0 Sport in black. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
On the downside it doesn't have a hardtop or aircon (quite surprised this was a rare option for the top spec model), however I've never really needed to use the AC in the roadster, and I think not having the hardtop will be a good thing in some ways (no need to store, can drop the top on dry winter days etc) plus the roof on the MX is fabric or mohair so pretty robust.
It does have the LSD and 6 speed box though, along with heated leather.
First impressions are it's bigger (in feel at least than the 2), and feels less raw. It's got more low down grunt, but overall it's not faster. Handling seems similarly good, but I didn't want to push it on a test drive in the wet! It sits on stilts though, apparently Mazda fitted longer springs for the UK market, set of eibachs will be high on the wish list.
I will do a bit of a none biased comparison post when I get it (still love the 2).
sounds very nice.
should rename this post:
MX5 - A solution to oil consumption? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
LOL, the thread will be getting moderated then!!!
It is nice, but to be 100% honest I think as a pure fun/weekend car the MR2 would get my vote. MX5 combines most of the appeal of the MR2 with a bit more of the refinement and comfort that my old golf company car offered (without the downside of being wrist slashingly dull).
Back on topic though, I do feel that roadster consuming oil like ours do have the potential to carry on for many thousands of miles to come, I reckon the majority of failures are down to failing to keep an eye on the oil levels. I'll stick around on here, and will be interested to hear how you get on with yours. I would also say that with less than £2k invested, your are in the position that you could change the engine and not be too far down.
QuoteIt is nice, but to be 100% honest I think as a pure fun/weekend car the MR2 would get my vote.
wise words on an MR2 forum s:) :) s:)
QuoteI'll stick around on here, and will be interested to hear how you get on with yours.
Think I shall be mothballing it till about April now, 'cos apart from anything else, regularly having to p*ss about checking and topping up oil in Winter isn't my idea of fun. No intention of selling though - think I'll be running it till it dies (so maybe 'till about May then s:lol: :lol: s:lol: )
Quote from: "markiii"wouldn;t touch magnatec with your bargepole
Ok, I wont. any particular brand to recommend for the 15w 50?
Quote from: "michaelasaunders"Quote from: "markiii"wouldn;t touch magnatec with your bargepole
Ok, I wont. any particular brand to recommend for the 15w 50?
Any of these should do: m http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-660-15w-50.aspx (http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-660-15w-50.aspx) m
Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "michaelasaunders"Quote from: "markiii"wouldn;t touch magnatec with your bargepole
Ok, I wont. any particular brand to recommend for the 15w 50?
Any of these should do: m http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-660-15w-50.aspx (http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-660-15w-50.aspx) m
in case you haven't already, you might want to read this in case you were thinking of trying 15w50 this side of April
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31696 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31696) l .
given that you have been running Tesco's finest, I would have thought the Motul 6100 would be more in line with your budget, but Opie appear to have limited availabilty on this at the mo, so under the circumstances I'm sure they wont mind me mentioning this oil is also available on Ebay.
Back on the Opie site though, The Gulf competition caught my eye for just an extra fiver.
Alan (currently 'running' 15/50 topped up with LOTS of 5 40 and now probably hibernating till spring anyway s:) :) s:) )
Quote from: "KTM_RIDER"Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "michaelasaunders"in case you haven't already, you might want to read this in case you were thinking of trying 15w50 this side of April
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31696 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31696) l .)
I had read it, thanks.
However, I also read Markiii runs it all year with no issues.
Decisions decisions....
Back on topic, more or less:
My 2001 MR2 was burning ~1qt/400mi.
I installed 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra with 1.5oz of SeaFoam per quart.
I ran one tankful of petrol with ~1oz of RingFree per (US) gallon.
I ran a second tankful with the same concentration of RingFree.
I ran one tankful without adding any RingFree.
I ran one tankful with ~2oz of RingFree per (US) gallon.
Oil consumption is now ~1qt/680 miles.
Now, the improvement may be due to the oil, the SeaFoam, the RingFree, or a combination of two or even all three. Unscientific I know, but I'm in a hurry as I'm facing the US equivalent of a MOT.
I believe the improvement is mostly due to the RingFree. I'm currently running ~2oz/gal, and intend to continue the treatment until I see no further improvement.
Oil consumption, as with any other fluid loss, can be managed. In the same way that you have to top up with petrol then you have to top up with oil and water. I've just noticed that the ash tray is full.
Quote from: "OldMan"Back on topic, more or less:
My 2001 MR2 was burning ~1qt/400mi.
I installed 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra with 1.5oz of SeaFoam per quart.
I ran one tankful of petrol with ~1oz of RingFree per (US) gallon.
I ran a second tankful with the same concentration of RingFree.
I ran one tankful without adding any RingFree.
I ran one tankful with ~2oz of RingFree per (US) gallon.
Oil consumption is now ~1qt/680 miles.
Now, the improvement may be due to the oil, the SeaFoam, the RingFree, or a combination of two or even all three. Unscientific I know, but I'm in a hurry as I'm facing the US equivalent of a MOT.
I believe the improvement is mostly due to the RingFree. I'm currently running ~2oz/gal, and intend to continue the treatment until I see no further improvement.
Very interesting results, thanks alot for the info. Of course we're used to thinking in litres here in the UK and by my calculation (based on a quart = 1.1365 litres approx) your oil consumption has dropped from a litre every 350 mls to every 600 miles a great improvement ! s:D :D s:D
Digging around on the internet it would seem that Yamalube Ring Free is based on Chevron Techron and both products are rated highly in the U.S. but appear more or less unavailable in the UK.
However, it seems that for drivers in the Cardiff area they can get some Techron next time they fill up:
m http://www.texacowithtechron.co.uk/ (http://www.texacowithtechron.co.uk/) m
Quote from: "KTM_RIDER"Digging around on the internet it would seem that Yamalube Ring Free is based on Chevron Techron and both products are rated highly in the U.S. but appear more or less unavailable in the UK.
I've read that as well, but further exploration found numerous sites that claim RingFree and Techron are NOT similar even though they are both manufactured by the same chemical company. I tend to believe that because I've been using Techron every six tankfuls for years, but have never seen any concrete results. The normal RingFree dose is 1oz/10gallons, much lower than the normal Techron dosage. The RingFree concentration I'm currently using is termed a "shock treatment" by Yamaha, and is intended to clean a long-neglected engine prior to beginning the "maintanance dose".