Hey all, newbie here s:) :) s:)
I posted a topic a copy of weeks back about my engine management light came on 2 days after purchase.
My code reader finally arrived today and the code error was "02 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor2"
Now like I said I'm a newbie lol so do I have to replace the 02 sensor or is it something different like a fuse or part on the sensor that can be replaced?
Thanks
Hi,
You'll have to replace the sensor. Determine which one ( not sure but if you do a search it will come up)
Also, don't be paying daft prices..again do a search on here.
Hope this helps.
B
I can't find on the net which one the bank 1 sensor 2 is. I can find bank 1 sensor 1 lol think I need a Haynes manual :/
after searching hard and reading hard about this problem i found a very good comment from a member on here which makes complete sense and has put my mind at rest lol
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
he put:
Each O2 sensor has a built in heater inside it. The heaters are used to get the Zirconia mesuring sensors inside them up to operating temperature quickly so that they can get on with the job of measuring oxygen. This gains vital seconds in the process of gaining efficient emissions control on a cold start of the engine. Once the engine is hot, clearly anything in the exhaust flow is'nt going to be in need of heaters! The ECU monitors these heaters by measuring the current going to them, to much or too little flags up the fault code you have at the moment. The sensor itself is still working, it just takes a while to warm up... Again, having a duff heater in an otherwise functional 3rd O2 sensor wont cause any problems with engine managment.
So, what to do to fix it? Well, you can replace the unit, or you can ignore it... Either way your car will go just as fast as its always done, using exactly the same amount of fuel. The problem with just leaving it, is that with the engine light already lit, you wont see any new problems should they occur. Fixing the thing is expensive, especially considering all you are going to gain is clear dashboard.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After reading this it made a lot of sense due to when i bought the car it was normal weather conditions and then 2 days after buying the car the tempertures droped to freezing and then we had the snow :
think i will fix this problem with the resistor idea but when the snow has gone and is a bit warmer lol
thanks for your help
Hi again,
The last time I read a price for a sensor on the forum was about £60 or £70 (Mr T is about £180ish)
If you're going to change it, it is a straight swap ,that is assuming you buy the sensor with the connection, Just make sure you Plus gaz the sensor threads prior to attempting the extraction.
I'm a tight git but I've changed the two problems sensors asap if only for the reason mentioned earlier i.e. it masks possible other issues..
Up to you...
B
Quote from: "Sweetas"think i will fix this problem with the resistor idea but when the snow has gone and is a bit warmer lol
The Club has a small stock of resistors suitable for the job. PM me your address and put a £5 donation into Club funds and I'll send one out to you with flyleads attached and some heatshrink for the connection .... unless you want terminal blocks?
m http://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/search/s ... chProducts (http://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/search/searchBrowseAction.html?searchTerm=160-736%27&x=0&y=0&method=searchProducts) m
I have two of these on my car and they are good as gold!
When I fitted the second one I didn't disconnect the battery to reset the ECU. The light went off itself after two full cold to hot cycles.
Awww don't deprive ROC of some funds s:( :( s:(
If you're ordering from RS bear in mind that - unless you hold an account - the cheapest delivery option is £4.95+VAT.
Or if you prefer to burn fuel you can collect from a trade counter.
By the way, we've moved to a higher resistance 'fix' now. Beefier component. 15 ohm works fine though.
Personally, I'd replace the sensor with a proper item. After all, it's only the cost of two tanks of petrol The heater doesn't only work at start up, but whenever the engine conditions cannot maintain the sensor temperature just by the heat of the exhaust gasses, e.g at idle or light loads. If it's not at the proper temperature then the mixture will be wrong, causing poor idling and possibly damaging the cat. Alternatively you might miss a much more important fault, like a misfire which could, over time, break up the cat, costing a lot more than the original sensor to replace. Toyota certainly would not have added the heater if they thought they could get away without it; and the control system ftted to the 1zz is well set up and deserves to be treated with respect.
I've clearly totally lost the plot here. I had this problem during the last cold snap (Jan / Feb ??) but the cel alway cleared after a period of time. This happened on about four separate occasions after which I was getting up a lot later in the morning s:D :D s:D . The cel is clearly not forever whether you clear it or not; what? (Xmas quiz, how many times can you spot the word 'clear')? I assume some error code will be stored though.
Mine went in the spring and would go away after a re-set but always came back. I imagine that it may go through a phase where it will work sufficiently some times and not others but I'd think it was on its way out at that point anyway.
So, I'd speculate that if it comes on you're going to have to fix it sooner (in my case it was a matter of a week or so before it wouldn't go away for more than thirty minutes of driving) or later. As far as I'm aware it doesn't effect the car other than meaning you can't see if the light should be on for any other reason (assuming it's the after main cat one).
For 70 quid, or whateve Nathan was able to get them for, it seemed to me worth getting done.
The test on the heater only runs when it is switched on, some time after engine start, and it has to fail twice in sucession before the CEL comes on. The heater switches on depending on coolant temperature and engine load. So depending on how fast the engine warms up, and the route you drive, the test may or may not fail.
Seems like there are always 2 sides to everything and both ways seem to work :/
Costs either £67 for new sensor or £5 for resistor from the shop?
Think I will go for the £5 fix as a lot of people have done it that way and has solved the issue. Not trying to be a tight arse but don't see the point of paying out more than it's worth especially if this issue is a known one and most likely happen again which would cost another £67? Rather keep paying £5 :p
Quote from: "cclarke99"If it's not at the proper temperature then the mixture will be wrong, causing poor idling and possibly damaging the cat.
Except we're talking about B1S2, aren't we? Which isn't involved in fuelling.
QuoteExcept we're talking about B1S2, aren't we? Which isn't involved in fuelling.
Good point - unless you live in California this one doesn't really matter, so the resistor will do the job. My only thought was whether it was able to pick up catalyst failure before it caused engine damage, in which case it might save you a lot of money.
Hi im new here, ive got a mr2 mark 3 2003 roadster, the engine management light has come on and my husband has had it checked andit says possibly
Bank 2 problem, the heater etc maybe, we are unsure, the light went off but on the way home again its come back on, any ideas anyone, im in essex
cheers, i have noticed that the demist is not clearing all the windows, we have had bad snow, also when driving windows still stay misty if i move heater switch to normal, face or feet. help please s:D :D s:D
Eve the Red Roadster s:) :) s:)
Read this l viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21983 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21983) l then find a member to read the code here l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16017&view=unread#unread (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16017&view=unread#unread) l
Hi Eve,
Bank 2 sensor 1 is your post CAT 02 sensor however this light and fault can sometimes appear if you have filled your car with fuel and it has been dodgy fuel with low octane. This is a common thing and the fact the light went off again could indicate this as the initial issue. I'd recommend filling your car somewhere else so the fuel mixes and adding a fuel injector to boost the octane just until you have finished that tank of fuel. If the light re-appears again after you try this then you can buy a POst cat 02 sensor from Ebay for about 80 quid which is much cheaper than what you'll get from Toyota garage.
I hope this helps
Caz x
I had the o2 sensor go bad, I think it was sensor (1) bank (2), but don't hold me to it, anyway it was the third sensor near the cat not the two near the precats. I replaced it and all was well for a few days and then the eng-lite came back on, (heater failure) is it P141??? I cleared it and a few days later it came back on. I figured it was a bad o2 because it was a cheap price. Its been months and the same error (heater failure) comes and goes on its own. Seems it has something to do with colder temps, because it doesn't seem to fail during hotter periods. I live in southern cal and we had a warm spell a while back, in the 80's and never had a problem. Now it's chilly again and it comes and goes on and off.
Monty
You've got to be careful with the cheaper "generic" sensors that you splice in, many of them have the incorrect resistance heater circuit and will continue to throw the P0141 code.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"You've got to be careful with the cheaper "generic" sensors that you splice in, many of them have the incorrect resistance heater circuit and will continue to throw the P0141 code.
I'm glad you mentioned that because that seems to be exactly what 's happening. It almost never comes on in the warmer weather.
Seems to be some confusion here as to which o2 sensor is which as far as I can tell from the technical information I have, there are three lambda (o2) sensors on the roadster (UK). The DTC codes and descriptions are as follows:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the top, pre-cat sensor on the right hand side of the manifold (when you are standing at the back of the car looking forward with the engine in front of you)
DTC Codes:
P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 Sensor 1),
P0130 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1Sensor 1)
P0133 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the top, pre-cat sensor on the left hand side of the manifold (when you are standing at the back of the car looking forward with the engine in front of you)
DTC Codes:
P0155 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0150 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the post cat sensor accessible from the bottom of the car just after the main cat. And by the way is a be-ach to get out.
DTC Codes:
P0141 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0136 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Mike
Quote from: "mikecobra427"Seems to be some confusion here as to which o2 sensor is which as far as I can tell from the technical information I have, there are three lambda (o2) sensors on the roadster (UK). The DTC codes and descriptions are as follows:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the top, pre-cat sensor on the right hand side of the manifold (when you are standing at the back of the car looking forward with the engine in front of you)
DTC Codes:
P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 Sensor 1),
P0130 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1Sensor 1)
P0133 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the top, pre-cat sensor on the left hand side of the manifold (when you are standing at the back of the car looking forward with the engine in front of you)
DTC Codes:
P0155 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0150 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the post cat sensor accessible from the bottom of the car just after the main cat. And by the way is a be-ach to get out.
DTC Codes:
P0141 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0136 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Mike
Good info,can this be stickied in the reference section as this subject is really common?
Quote from: "mikecobra427"Seems to be some confusion here as to which o2 sensor is which as far as I can tell from the technical information I have, there are three lambda (o2) sensors on the roadster (UK). The DTC codes and descriptions are as follows:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the top, pre-cat sensor on the right hand side of the manifold (when you are standing at the back of the car looking forward with the engine in front of you)
DTC Codes:
P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 Sensor 1),
P0130 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1Sensor 1)
P0133 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the top, pre-cat sensor on the left hand side of the manifold (when you are standing at the back of the car looking forward with the engine in front of you)
DTC Codes:
P0155 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0150 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the post cat sensor accessible from the bottom of the car just after the main cat. And by the way is a be-ach to get out.
DTC Codes:
P0141 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0136 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Mike
Good info,can this be stickied in the reference section as this subject is really common?