Go easy one me as im new to the forum...
I bought myself today a Roadster Mr-2 with the SP turbo conversion on it, its an 03 plate with 44k on the clocks.
Having owned it for 12 hours odd I already have some plans for it... Im stillin the process of selling my old car (saxo vts running 50bhp of Nitrous oxide)...
I kept the NOS setup for the MR-2 but getting used to RWD is slightly more difficult that I thought when you like the gas pedal and arent used to it so the NOS setup is in the garage for the foreseeable..
Il upload some pictures if the weather is nice tomorrow. Im not even sure howmany people actually use this site yet, seems to be quite dormant compared to my old owners club thread...
Heres my beast s:) :) s:)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-11112901.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-11112846.jpg)
Yep it's normally quiet at 3.30am. s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Look there are thousands of the Saxo's s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:scared: :scared: s:scared: s:scared: :scared: s:scared: on the road and certainly not so many Roadster, this is a busy site when it comes to information about the car, yes there are plenty of mods that can be done and by the sounds of it you've got one of the better ones.
Probably the wrong time of year to learn how to drive a 2, push it to hard and you will find the ditch pretty quickly, even more so with a turbo bolted on.
Good luck with your modding, Oh yes welcome to the club.
Rob.
Hey welcome to the club. Ive moved your post over to the newbie section i hope you dont mind.
With your current setup i couldnt really see the need for Nos and depending if your running a low or high setup i would consider working on what you already have fixed than adding Nos. The MR2 wasnt really built to go fast in a straight line but was built to make corners a lot more exciting s:) :) s:) That said my guess is a saxo wasnt really one for straight line speeds either s;) ;) s;)
Nos has been done before but in a relatively standard engine with no turbo. Im not sure how ud get on with linking with the turbo in any case.
Have a read through this when you get chance as it might help you out
l viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29479 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29479) l
You can also take a look in the garage for ideas and tips
Take it easy in this weather if you not used to it. We've only recent nearly suffered another loss s:( :( s:(
so if you have run NOS before, I'd be interested as to who you used for insurance?
most companies won't touch NOS with a bargepole
probabaly in case your manifold falls off :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "markiii"probabaly in case your manifold falls off :-) :-) :-)
You've got it all wrong Mark - it only causes "danger to manifold!" .. then the
floor falls off .. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Sorry Lippy, we're quite friendly really (and I'm sure you got the reference there anyway).
ROC is 'quiet' compared to mass-market car forums (the Omega forum has thousands of active members and probably 10x the post volume that ROC has, but there are 10x the number of cars on the road, ditto with the Saxo forums I would imagine), but the technical knowledge is second to none IMHO s:) :) s:)
some interesting mods on that little diddy car there mate, cant wait to see what you do with the MR2.
Dont do the HID thing though please, we don't like it here s:) :) s:)
Welcome to the site, look forward to seeing some pics
Ive spun it a little already tbh... 10 mins after buying it, wasnt being stupid just little gas off of a roundabout. No damage, just raised heartbeat...
Insurance on NOS the only place you can go is adrian Flux tbh,,, cost me an extra £140 per year on the saxo...
Saxo without nos was about 6.5 seconds to 60 so actually no it was quick in a straight line s:) :) s:)
Nathan can you put the thread back where it was as I intend on using this thread for a car progress report for the coming years, saves me creating a new thread later, cheers
I had morettes and HID's on my saxo as the lights were rather cr*ppy tbh, not needed on the MR2 as the lights are awsome!
So far ive fitted richbrook locking wheel valve caps, silvateck sidelight bulbs (gets rid of the yellow), washed the car and cleaned the interiour.
I have a JL 8" sub to fit, £330 Alpine headunit, ipod, 17cm pioneer components and a Genesis aluminium class G amplifier s:) :) s:) , its a nice sounding setup!
Tomtom mounting point needed somewhere... Road angel pro is on dash but not wired, shift light to go on from glowshift and oil, water, fuel pressure & boost gauges to fit. All in white (7 color)
I have a few questions which il ask in next post, any info would be appreciated!
I need to know if the lights on the speedo are halogen bulbs or if they are led/smd's please?
With the steering wheel do you guys generally recommend not changing? I liked my OMP sports wheel (smaller)?
Do the headlights come out just by 1 bolt on the top? I want to fit silvatek bulbs
Anyone fitted a SPAL type slimline fan on the rad of a turbo'd '2 ?
I used to have a Saxo vtr bud! I'd never put them down! There good fun and pretty much go karts ! Guy round the corner brought it , but still , nothing compared to the 2' ....
my old saxo would rinse a '2 speed wise and round corners but it was anything but standard tbh, the 16v's std are 7.5 same as the N/A Mr2's. good cars just grew out of it tbh!
Any suggestions on matt black headlights?
black touring strip?
De-badged front?
Black wingmirrors & bonnet?
I want to try to de-girly it a little, I really like the car but its a little hairdresser-ish
bigest issue with a smaller wheel is it cuts through the instruments, especially if you leave it in a lw position.
Porsche were fitting instrument binnacles thatmove with teh wheel back in 1979, never understood why others never folowed suit or even why Porsche stopped
Yeah tell me about it ! Probably because there so unbelievably light! Hmmm I think your ideas sound good! But what this forum taught me , is to deal with the handling before performance s:) :) s:)
MOD - Moved to Performance at the OP's request
Did the rear bumper inserts fall out on the way back from picking it up from Andy, I'm sure they were there when he was selling it? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
You got a nice car there. If you debadge the front I'll buy the eagle badge, I think the black door mirrors look pretty good on silver, someone photoshopped a pic a few days ago. Looking to see what you do with the car... like it already so hopefully can make it even better.
I know what you mean about the look, I've never been a fan of the standard car, needs bumper/skirt changes to 'de-girly it' as you've put it, which is what is on my plan of things to do as I've now just picked up my new standard car today which is ripe for modding as my new project s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"Yeah tell me about it ! Probably because there so unbelievably light! Hmmm I think your ideas sound good! But what this forum taught me , is to deal with the handling before performance s:) :) s:)
Its lowered with uprated brakes and already got a turbo...? also has the huge X brace underneith, what else would you suggest?
Quote from: "onion86"Did the rear bumper inserts fall out on the way back from picking it up from Andy, I'm sure they were there when he was selling it? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
You got a nice car there. If you debadge the front I'll buy the eagle badge, I think the black door mirrors look pretty good on silver, someone photoshopped a pic a few days ago. Looking to see what you do with the car... like it already so hopefully can make it even better.
I know what you mean about the look, I've never been a fan of the standard car, needs bumper/skirt changes to 'de-girly it' as you've put it, which is what is on my plan of things to do as I've now just picked up my new standard car today which is ripe for modding as my new project s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
I have the rear inserts but they were off of the car when I picked it up s:( :( s:(
Im also thinking on removing the std black plastic mesh and replacing with jaguar stainless steel T304 stuff like I did on the saxo. might even remove the front fogs
Does the front badge have pins through the bonnet?
If you have a link to the windmirrors in black please link me s:) :) s:)
what skirts do people suggest? Im looking at lips for the front and back blended in so they dont look like an after thought
Yeah the front bumper badge has 2 pins through the bumper
Quote from: "Lippy"Ive spun it a little already tbh... 10 mins after buying it, wasnt being stupid just little gas off of a roundabout. No damage, just raised heartbeat!
I did warn you s:lol: :lol: s:lol: Its not like driving a saxo regardless of the similar power output. If you want to spend money it get yourself a racelogic traction control before you bin it!
Quote from: "Lippy"I need to know if the lights on the speedo are halogen bulbs or if they are led/smd's please?
led's built in to the circuit board.
Quote from: "Lippy"Do the headlights come out just by 1 bolt on the top? I want to fit silvatek bulbs
No there is another bugger underneath that you have to move the wheel arch liner to get to. and it's probably easier to removed the bumper as well because the lights get caught on the lip.
Saying all that, you should be able to change the bulbs in place.
Welcome to the ROC Lippy s8) 8) s8)
Quote from: "SimonC_Here"Quote from: "Lippy"I need to know if the lights on the speedo are halogen bulbs or if they are led/smd's please?
led's built in to the circuit board.
Only for some of the warning lights. High beam, indicators and backlight are all clear 1.2w capless bulbs.
Orange capless work OK. Reds too but a little dim.
LED capless equivalents (red) have been tried but they throw very little light through the stencil.
Quote from: "Lippy"what else would you suggest?
Don't take this the wrong way, but I'd suggest investing in a car control day and honing your driving skills. Once you are happy that you are able to fully exploit the handling of the car without reversing it into the scenery at high speed, then I would start doing more mods.
Quote from: "vinp182"Yeah the front bumper badge has 2 pins through the bumper
Welcome. All the other badges are just straight sticky so won't need filling/painting if the go.
As to skirts, IMO the Toyota ones were the best (assuming no other bodywork change), though its doubtful if you could get a new set now (and you probably wouldn't want to pay what they were asking either s:wink: :wink: s:wink: ). Keep your ears and eyes open. The front and rear lips don't actually blend with the side skirt, so can be put on by themselves.
if you do change the steering wheel, most aftermarket are without an airbag, so need to think about that (safety and insurance). You would probably have to buy a boss as well to get the fit right.
Quote from: "stargazer30"Quote from: "Lippy"Ive spun it a little already tbh... 10 mins after buying it, wasnt being stupid just little gas off of a roundabout. No damage, just raised heartbeat!
I did warn you s:lol: :lol: s:lol: Its not like driving a saxo regardless of the similar power output. If you want to spend money it get yourself a racelogic traction control before you bin it!
Or just learn to drive it
Hi Lippy
Didn't take you long to get stuck into things, very impressed with the enthusiasm and commitment considering the weather/temps this time of year.
Have fun and make sure you look after it (got the impression you will s:wink: :wink: s:wink: )
Andy.
Currently fitted alpine headunit and working on shift light installation... but i cant seem to find anywhere on here that lists the wire location for the revs...
ANYONE KNOW WHERE IT IS AND WHAT COLOR OR PIN?
Dont worry andy she is being well looked after and yeah working on it in winter out back of my house :-) :-) :-)
After shift light is done im wiring in my road angel i think! very easy to speed in this car and not even know about it...
Here is my first upgrade...
Removed OEM stereo and fitted my old alpine unit from my saxo...
The surround is really flimsy and rattles so I set to it with some thin sound proofing and hey presto no more rattles... drilled a 14mm hole in the back with my come cutter so that my ipod can live in the shelf without visable wires.
I rewired the stereo and put a switch in line with the electric ariel as I dont listen to the radio much and its a waste of battery power imo and shortens the life of the electric ariel un-nesessarily.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-13212753.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-13212742.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-13230143.jpg)
Im amazed at the amount of space under the drivers side of the dash, you could almost put a nitrous bottle under there s;) ;) s;) ... Ive nearly finished doing the shift light but need to know where that rev's cable is before plugging it in...
Here are some pictures of the engine bay
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-12094936.jpg)
Anyone know why I have a tube going from air intake pipe to the rocker cover?? is it a breather pipe for the rockers?
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-12094947.jpg)
Breather pipe for crank-case ventilation.
There is one on the other side of the rocker cover too (nearest rear of car) that goes from the PCV to the inlet manifold.
Andy
Cheers andy, can i plumb them into my 2 port catch tank do you think?
Quote from: "Lippy"Cheers andy, can i plumb them into my 2 port catch tank do you think?
Yes you can. It's not really necessary but it'll be a good safety net if ever the engine developed problems and started breathing really heavily.
Quote from: "MattPerformance"Quote from: "Lippy"Cheers andy, can i plumb them into my 2 port catch tank do you think?
Yes you can. It's not really necessary but it'll be a good safety net if ever the engine developed problems and started breathing really heavily.
Ive got a catch tank in the garage from my saxo anyway so might do that at some point, I PM'd Andy recently asking who fitted my kit and I do believe it was you Matt, credit where credits due it looks like it grew there.
Do you have any idea why the 235bhp map is a bit peaky? Im planning on putting it back to 235 when the weather improves and wondered what might cause that? my guess was intercooler too small or the need of a better management setup like a standalone rather than the piggyback?
It runs and pullls like a dream at the moment and prob does on the high boost too just graph looks different.
I have quite a few ideas for this car and am reading quite a bit on whats what etc... but never had a turbo'd car until now only Nitrous oxide
Quote from: "Lippy"Do you have any idea why the 235bhp map is a bit peaky?
That is a fairly typical shape of torque curve for a turbo'd car. When you look at the BHP curve you see a steady rise (at a fairly consistent gradient) and that is what you actually feel when you drive the car.
Cheers Matt, I thought that might be the case but thought it might be interesting to ask.
Well over the last couple of days inbetween the rain and blisteringly cold weather ive been changing my front speakers, I found that the previous owner had a set of Alpine S series components in the car which I have removed, they sounded fairly good bottom end frequencies but the were slightly lacking in clarity with treble and vocals.
I used a roll of 'anti vibe' the stuff made by vibe, halfords didnt have any dynamat extreme which I much prefer and works alot better but better than nothing for now. I had problems fixing my speakers to the standard surrounds but managed to hold them in place with some screws at 45 Degrees (looks messy but does the trick!) The waterproof sheeting was quite flappy and thin so I used a load of decent quality duct tape to make that more rigid whilst I was in there...
I want to fit my amp under the passengers chair and run some decent gauge speaker cable to the fronts but cant seem to find out how to get to the car side of the door wiring loom plug??? Anyone done this job and able to advise?
Heres some pictures
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-18145040.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-18145103.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-18153007.jpg)
I can get to the inside of the door and dont think il have a problem with the door side for the speaker cables but inside the car I cant see a loom at the same height and im thinking that there are 2 skins inside the car in this area and the second skin is obscuring my view of the other end of the rubber tube...? HELP lol
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-18224010.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-18224034.jpg)
Trial and error my friend... I tried coat hangers taped to the cable, cable smoothered in washing up liquid, nothing would do the trick. Then i found an old curtain wire, you know the fairly sturdy/thick yet flexible stuff?
I popped the grommet out of the inner door (car side) and pierced a small incision there then threaded the lubed curtain wire through into the door, I taped end of my cable to that and hey presto, into the door. Repeat going the other way, so curtain wire through same incision but this time angled into the car and job done. You wont be able to see where the cable comes through but using the curatin wire it'll find its way and pop out to the looms in the footwell under the covers. Pull through till you get the cable and then just pop the flexi grommets back into place, after pulling slack either into the car or into the door.
Certainly the only way I could manage it without going mad.
Quote from: "JiMR2"Trial and error my friend... I tried coat hangers taped to the cable, cable smoothered in washing up liquid, nothing would do the trick. Then i found an old curtain wire, you know the fairly sturdy/thick yet flexible stuff?
I popped the grommet out of the inner door (car side) and pierced a small incision there then threaded the lubed curtain wire through into the door, I taped end of my cable to that and hey presto, into the door. Repeat going the other way, so curtain wire through same incision but this time angled into the car and job done. You wont be able to see where the cable comes through but using the curatin wire it'll find its way and pop out to the looms in the footwell under the covers. Pull through till you get the cable and then just pop the flexi grommets back into place, after pulling slack either into the car or into the door.
Certainly the only way I could manage it without going mad.
Cheers for the tip! I normally use a metal coathanger but didnt think that would bend enough so didnt attempt it yet, its been too rainy and cold so far too :-
Need to find a curtain rail by the sounds...
Whilst waiting for the weather to get better i fitted my road angel (license saver) but promised myself i wouldnt drill any holes in this car, an hour later i managed to cut the cable in 2 and get it behind the dash... not the tidiest install but no holes drilled.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/2011-12-20092652.jpg)
The interiour light was pants and used too much power so i fitted an 18 led light cluster from my saxo, now much brighter but i need a clear cover i think...
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/2011-12-19234104.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/2011-12-21090545.jpg)
Also working out how im going to fit my sub in the rear bins so stripped that out and i now have a plan s;-) ;-) s;-) whilst i was in there i found the boost controller and dastek ecu
just to let you know but in your second pic looking for the wires for the door (one with a red box in it) well if you remove the plastic in the bottom of that pic then you will see a square cutout with a bunch of wires coming out of if. the wires from the door go in, down and out at the bottom, if that all make sense
Cheers for the advice rbuckingham! i managed to get the cables through pretty easy the other night, didnt have a curtain wire but i found that a short piece of my wizards of nos tubing was perfect for the job :-) :-) :-)
cables to headunit are now bigger, just need to fit my amp somewhere like under the seat next.
Quote from: "Lippy"Cheers for the advice rbuckingham! i managed to get the cables through pretty easy the other night, didnt have a curtain wire but i found that a short piece of my wizards of nos tubing was perfect for the job :-) :-) :-)
cables to headunit are now bigger, just need to fit my amp somewhere like under the seat next.
unless you stick the amp under a steam roller i dont think it will go under the seats are fairly low
A quick aside: if you have a Dastek and you opt for power amp positioning in the rear bin, keep the two seriously separate. The Dastek really doesn't like to get hot.
Oh no those speaker mounts wont do. Your going to have air leaks from the rear of the speaker cancelling out any lower frequencies and most likely over time the speakers going to come loose. I'd suggest making some MDF speaker brackets up of at least getting some £10 plastic ones off ebay. Whilst your at it maybe get shot of the duct tape and use flashing tape on the door. I'll guarentee you this will make much much more of an improvement than fighting thicker wire through the door gromets.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Quote from: "Lippy"Cheers for the advice rbuckingham! i managed to get the cables through pretty easy the other night, didnt have a curtain wire but i found that a short piece of my wizards of nos tubing was perfect for the job :-) :-) :-)
cables to headunit are now bigger, just need to fit my amp somewhere like under the seat next.
unless you stick the amp under a steam roller i dont think it will go under the seats are fairly low
Luckily my amp is a genesis profile 4 so its about 1 inch tall. ive slid it under from behind and all looks well!
Quote from: "spit"A quick aside: if you have a Dastek and you opt for power amp positioning in the rear bin, keep the two seriously separate. The Dastek really doesn't like to get hot.
The amp will either be going under the seat or mounted behind the seat verticle so shouldnt need to worry. cheers for the heads up though as if it has to go in there then il place suitably away or use pc fans to reduce heat
Quote from: "stargazer30"Oh no those speaker mounts wont do. Your going to have air leaks from the rear of the speaker cancelling out any lower frequencies and most likely over time the speakers going to come loose. I'd suggest making some MDF speaker brackets up of at least getting some £10 plastic ones off ebay. Whilst your at it maybe get shot of the duct tape and use flashing tape on the door. I'll guarentee you this will make much much more of an improvement than fighting thicker wire through the door gromets.
Luckily the leaking is minimal tbh, the standard rings have foam sealing tape and where the speaker meets the plastic ring a solid sealant fills any holes.
The main leaks will be around the window seals and there is nothing you can do about those. its sealed pretty well if im honest
My Genesis amp was fitted yesterday, there really isnt much room under there at all but luckily with a little fiddling about it fits like a glove and the seat still operates normally. The amp is running just the front components a the moment so 140w RMS into speakers that are rated at 90w RMS iirc (sounds pretty good but wont be running them too hard incase they pop on me :/
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-27143754.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-27143813.jpg)
Ive finished sound proofing the rear end under the plastic panels in the rear storage bins, seems to eliminate a little engine noise and vibration (can still hear the turbo though which is good). I wanted to sound proof the rear as im building a sub box for my 8" JL w3, I wanted the box nice and light but strong and to be able to be hidden out of the way if thats what I decide to do so fibreglass was the way forward...
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-27223931.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-27223852.jpg)
Heres the first parts of the box... I cleaned the inside of the rear bin with glass cleaner to remove any silicone etc, then covered with a whole roll of duck tape, lightly sprayed in carpet glue and stuck halfords car polishing cloth to that as its really stretchy. The cloth has had 1 layer of fibreglass resin all over and im going out tomorrow to get some more fibreglass and some glass matting after work.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-28194521.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-28210150.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-28221853.jpg)
I also bought this from Ebay just as a little trinket, its aluminium (chrome finish) fits and seals like a glove and only cost me £8.99 as opposed to the TRD one I was going to get for £20+
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-25104521.jpg)
Also thanks to sdick dick sdick 2ski I have some OEM parts to destroy and modify which were paid for and posted today, cheers for helping me out and posting so quickly bud much appreciated
Loving the progress! Keep us posted!
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"Loving the progress! Keep us posted!
Cheers bud s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I was beginning to wonder if anyone was still reading stuff on the forum over winter... its gone very quiet... Lol
well the sub box is finished installed and works a treat, ive started work on something else today too... il put pictures up tomorrow hopefully... it should be a 1 off like the bass box
Quote from: "Lippy"Quote from: "JoniiBoii"Loving the progress! Keep us posted!
Cheers bud s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I was beginning to wonder if anyone was still reading stuff on the forum over winter... its gone very quiet... Lol
Possibly because your mostly audio related thread is in the performance forum?
Regarding the higher output map, Redline are doing a closed loop map that is very smooth to drive. I have mine set up with throttle position proportional boost and it is perfectly drivable in the wet, even on worn R888. You will need to get the 440cc injectors fitted to run the high output map. Downside of that is you can get cold start flooding as they confuse the ecu on start up, but easy enough to just open the throttle a little to get it to catch straight away.
As for the Nitrous, probably best left in the garage if you don't want to be rebuilding your engine and gearbox.
Chris
Quote from: "ChrisGB"Possibly because your mostly audio related thread is in the performance forum?
Regarding the higher output map, Redline are doing a closed loop map that is very smooth to drive. I have mine set up with throttle position proportional boost and it is perfectly drivable in the wet, even on worn R888. You will need to get the 440cc injectors fitted to run the high output map. Downside of that is you can get cold start flooding as they confuse the ecu on start up, but easy enough to just open the throttle a little to get it to catch straight away.
As for the Nitrous, probably best left in the garage if you don't want to be rebuilding your engine and gearbox.
Chris
Didnt want to start more than 1 thread for different parts of what I do to the car so thought performance was a good section to choose as its boosted and I have plans for it but it needed some decent music system upgrades before anything else.
I have the 440cc injectors already but they will be going away to be tested and ultrasonically cleaned with all new seals before they go on my car for high boost
I want to rebuild the engine with forged pistons & rods at some point but not just yet, if I do run the gas in this car then it will only be 10bhp shot until its forged
Update to current stereo upgrades s:) :) s:)
Heres some piccys of the box in creation, might be useful to some-one thinking on doing the same sort of thing or making anything out of fibreglass to keep the weight down...
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-30190756.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2011-12-31183408.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-02194552.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-03221047.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-08164303.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-08202931.jpg)
Its basically a mould taken from the rear storage area built up on the inside with fibreglass matting, batten was used to get the angles of the sub ring and then removed once the top had been built up with matting to give it some strength, finished off with filler (small amounts and then trimmed in 4 way stretch flock effect material using contact adhesive for house carpets.
It weighs approx 1.5 - 2 kg and the sub is about 4 kg as it has pretty big magnets and is the w3 model JL do... it sounds pretty good hitting the low notes well but not being loud enough to damage ears and neighbouring vechicles, ive has a 15" square kicker sub in my old car and been there and done that
So thats the stereo finished for now
Next on the list of things to do is get my gauges fitted in the car (I have a habit of buying gauges) theres something about knowing what the car is doing that I find really appealing! They look pretty good too
I decided the day I bought the car that a few of them would go on top of the centre dash pocket thing...
I put out a wanted ad for a spare panel so I dont damage anything on the car from when I bought it, 'dick2ski' helped me out there (cheers dude) and supplied me with that pocket and a spare double din cup holder/ashtray assembly for me to carve up.
I destroyed the gauge holders from my old car, removed all the fibreglass, used P40 to bond them to the top of the panel after some agressive sanding, used halfords stretchy netting again to make the shape over the top, doesnt need to be that strong so il paint it over with resin again soon and thats it for strength, its not finished but I only started it 2 days ago and its coming along nicely
Here is how its going so far...
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-09221139.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-10125731.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-10214710.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-12011224.jpg)
Love the sub box, would be great to know how to do that myself. Coming along nicely mate.
I tell you what mate ! I'm impressed! Really good work! I've fancied doing something like your sub box for a while! 1 weeks work?
Cheers guys comments much appreciated!
Fibreglassing does take a long time because of all the cutting shaping and making it fit between layers! at a guess the sub box took a good 8 hours to make and ive done this before plenty... its deffinately not quick and easy like wood but fits alot better and weighs nothing.
To learn fibreglassing iirc i watched videos on youtube, if you have any questions on it fire away
Nice bit of box build that! Did you measure the displacement vs what the sub needs? ie fill it with water then measure the volume of water it holds? Looking at it your above the min need for that sub so I guess it would be okay.
Also I'd be interested on your feedback of the sub in that position. I had the same sub in a sealed MDF box in the same postion upward firing and it didn't work too well for me. The sub didn't seem to punch very well and dropped too low. It literally was producing sub bass only and rattling the car. I tried a different front firing box, no joy. Then tried filtering out anything below 60hz no joy. The only way I could get it to sound semi decent was to invert the phase so it fired into the box and used bass reflex but that had other side effects. In the end I had to loose the JL sub and go with a mid range bass driver to reduce the lower sub bass frequencies and improve the mid bass area where my components were struggling a tad.
Can I just ask something bud? What bulb is it your using in your inside door light? Any links please?
oni
This is the sort of thing your after;
just fleabay - festoon led light on ebay... orderd mine forever ago so cant remember exactly which one i got but this at least points you in the right direction.
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQlwtH-voZEvJCODA2rbHY36KyINRVH6WDEMOfaSQNlkpH3vJ2b)
I did used to have a 12 LED one but it's actually only 'slightly' larger than the 6 LED but with much smaller LEDs, it also doesn't quite fit angled straight down (I had it angled in towards the car slightly). I ended up getting a 6 one instead and it's great, cost under £2 for 2 of them. The one above with 9 LEDs I think only come in 42mm, make sure you get a 32mm or it won't fit!
There are others on there which I think are like Lippy's which is a bulb shape to fit with a short wire going out to a separate LED strip, these would allow you to have more LEDs and have it closer to the cover so may give off more light.
LED dome bulb + clear light cover = s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Really appreciate the help , but don't suppose anyone can find a link for me please? As I know I'll end up buying the wrong one lol
this one ?
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300640583799? ... 1438.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300640583799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649) m
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"this one ?
That's the one I said I had but wasn't very good as the LEDs were small (also when I replaced it only 9 were still working), I've sent you a PM that should help out so as to stop filling Lippy's car thread with irrelevant posts, contact me via PM if you need more help rather than posting in here (or find an applicable thread to post in) s:flame: :flame: s:flame:
Quote from: "JiMR2"oni
This is the sort of thing your after;
just fleabay - festoon led light on ebay... orderd mine forever ago so cant remember exactly which one i got but this at least points you in the right direction.
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQlwtH-voZEvJCODA2rbHY36KyINRVH6WDEMOfaSQNlkpH3vJ2b)
31mm Festoon LED is what you need to search for
Wow thats my spam bomb virginity lost...
I did have an 18 led panel light which was a pain to fit but the smd version as pictured is best for ease of installation!
I need a clear cover as at the moment i have none for best light... Dont forget to only get the 6 smd bulb not the 9 as they dont fit well
LOL sorry about the spam, got any pictures of your gauges ?
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"LOL sorry about the spam, got any pictures of your gauges ?
Its fine dont worry about the messages... we all have questions s:) :) s:)
Here are pictures of the gauges I have appart from I dont have the voltmeter one yet but it will be in the post shortly. They are awsome gauges and the color changing features is good to match any interior, I normally have Nos white, Water Blue, Oil the yellow oily color etc...
[centre:26km4xhi](http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/Water.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/Volt.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/Oil.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/Nitrous.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/Fuel.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/Boost.jpg)[/centre:26km4xhi]
wanna do mine please? LOL
Basically finished the dash top gauge holder now... all it needs is for me to find a company to flock it for me...
Not sure if I should get it in red or black flock though?
Can anyone recommend me a flocking company that they have used? Ive always trimmed my stuff myself but the angles on this now its finished means thats not possable.
I finished it ages ago but had loads of room at the back of the panel so I decided to chop out the back end and chnage the design to include my desktop tomtom cradle, was a bit of a pain getting it at the right height to see the whole screen but not foul on the windscreen etc... also the charging cable and the audio cable needed to be fibreglassed on the bottom of the cradle so that there is no plugging in leads you just dump it on the dash.
Its pretty weak but it didnt need to be that strong tbh, heres some piccys before tomtom addition and finished
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-12124000.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-12123447.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-15143331.jpg)
so now that is done I decided to start on the other gauge holder for the other 3 gauges... So far I have just chopped up the ashtray and the cig lighter and made room for the gauge holders to be fibreglassed in place, but it will be basically angles both upwards towards my face and pointing right so I can read them better (same as the top dash ones as all 3 point at my face)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-15200820.jpg)
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"wanna do mine please? LOL
I generally dont do work on other people cars, it takes me a long time to do stuff like this and if I needed to charge for it then it would just be silly money.
I modify cars as an expensive hobby s:) :) s:)
What gauges do you have? there are gauge holders on Ebay for £2.59 each and they just stick onto the top of the dashboard and you put the cabling inside some black tubing to keep things looking tidy :0
Got any more info on the gauges ie price and where from.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Got any more info on the gauges ie price and where from.
They come from America and the company is called glow shift. i have their shift light and they also do led lighting.
You can buy their stuff on ebay but delivery takes a while. its best if you can to get them from a uk retailler tbh! even though the price is slightly more.
All gauges come with matched sender units to ensure accuracy.
The nos one was 85
Rest are between 33 and 44 pounds
hope that helps
LOL dont worry i was joking, ive delt with Fibre glass before, was pretty darn time consuming , but one day i might do something , just a matter of finding the time, keep up the good work btw !!
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"LOL dont worry i was joking, ive delt with Fibre glass before, was pretty darn time consuming , but one day i might do something , just a matter of finding the time, keep up the good work btw !!
Cheers dude appreciated! just waiting on more gauge pods in the post to chop up for the other gauge holder...
Then i have to do all the wiring for 6 gauges :-
I think i might do some interior lighting after that and change some exterior bulbs at the same time, ive alway liked being able to see my feet whilst driving so i might fit some dim red footwell lights to match the interior
sounds like a plan! keep us all posted on your progress bud! s:) :) s:)
Bit of an update... Ive run a 8 gauge power cable from the fused supply I put in for the amp which has been run under the carpet along the passenger side sill and up under the dash, im going to use this to supply a fuse box im going to wire up for all of my after market stuff and relays for lighting, nitrous (possably), and gauge power supplies etc... I just thought it would be easier then trying to find juicy sized cables and tap into the existing wiring loom all over the place and il be able to isolate everything aftermarket at the flip of a switch if I get problems.
Gave the car a good clean on Saturday washed, waxed, did the soft top with autoglym vinyl care and polished the exhaust tips which look like they hadnt been done for a good 9 months odd. Changed the number plate lights at the back swapped out halogens for some SMD led style lights which are nice and clear white rather than orange/yellow.
Autoglym metal polish is awsome (after a wipe but no polish)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-21143202.jpg)
After autoglym polish (il be buying more of this stuff) need to do the backbox next
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-21144004.jpg)
Bonnet area got a good clean too as it was pretty filthy lol (interiour panel wipes and then some autoglym back to black bumper care to keep it black and shiney
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-21155124.jpg)
Thought the car needed more red in it and had bought some Toyota red spray paint in preparation (the 3E5 color from Halfords) For now I just removed the gauge surrounds and resprayed them T-cutting after wards to try and get a nice flat finish in the laquer, came out really considering it was a rattle can in winter s:) :) s:) Whilst I was respraying that panel I drilled 2 x 3mm holes in it behind where the steering wheel sits from my driving position, these are going to have 3mm Red leds in them and be linked to the shift light, they are obscured on purpose by the steering wheel as that way il see the lights flash but not get blinded at 7k rpm needing to shift gear s:) :) s:)
I had not laquered it or polished it or fitted the led's in this picture but gives an idea
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-22155237.jpg)
Your imagination is unreal! Keep it up!
Just thought I would give you a heads up, I used Suffolk flocking services for all my interior flocking, very cheap too, I had my entire interior done for about £250 including carriage costs. They have a website and seem to do rally cars and things so have some good experience. Hope that helps mate.
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"Your imagination is unreal! Keep it up!
Cheers bud, got plenty of ideas just not enough hours in the day and parts are taking ages to arrive!
Quote from: "dj2k21"Just thought I would give you a heads up, I used Suffolk flocking services for all my interior flocking, very cheap too, I had my entire interior done for about £250 including carriage costs. They have a website and seem to do rally cars and things so have some good experience. Hope that helps mate.
I was thinking on using get flocked as they quoted £20 +vat to do the 1st gauge holder but then someone else replied saying £35 +vat and that no-one else from their company should have quoted me :/ seems like they are unsure of who can quote and who cant and the prices are very different!
Il see if I can find this suffolk company
My personal review on Osram Nightbreaker bulbs (h7 +90% light, facelift)
My existing bulbs were Osram but not tinted blue on the top and bottom of the bulbs (I think they are the OEM bulbs as previous owner said he didnt change any bulbs)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-28140533.jpg)
I fitted one bulb today and couldnt see any difference during the day which I guess can be expected, the upto 90% more light is accurate as upto 1000% would still be true... lol
I took her out for a drive in the dark, around town and down back roads etc... and finished my testing parked in absolute darkness up against a fence to look at the beam pattern. around town I honestly couldnt see any difference at all due to other lighting, in dimly lit areas ie inbetween street lamps I could see a small difference they were ever so slightly whiter and possable slightly brighter but nothing worth mentioning.
However on the back roads and areas with no other light you can see that the Nightbreaker bulb is both whiter and bluer, (its not a massive amount like HID's but I really didnt like avoiding police in the past because of HID's and they are now becomming illegal anyway) the brightness I would say is +10 / 15% in all honesty which is enough for me, the bulbs are still rated at 55watts each so no excessive draw through cables that are designed for that power bulb, the beam pattern seemed to be sharper where they kick left on the standard reflectors inside the lamp (might be due to the color difference). The light also seemed to be brighter at distance which is what it says on the packet so that is true also but not the 35meters it states to be fair.
For the £11 delivered I paid through Ebay with free delivery im pretty happy with them and would recommend them as an upgrade provided you dont mind fart arsing about fitting them as its so un-necessarily awkward and time consuming to do on our cars!
Having taken the frunk apart and seeing under all the covers im not happy with the state of the rust and crap in the bonnet area but really like not having the plastic liners there and just having the parts on display like a normal engine bay.
The bonnet area has been dusted off and a quick wipe over but I think im going to treat all of the rust in the engine bay and repaint it and whilst im there remove all of the black brackets that are pretty rusty and give them a quick coat in black paint. When the covers go back on if they go back on then everything I do will be covered so I dont need to worry about if I sell it people seeing that the color doesnt match.
I do also like taking something that looks rusty/dirty and repainting it and making it look nice again s:P :P s:P
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-28133014.jpg)
Thinking on mounting my 10lb Nitrous bottle in there at the moment s:? :? s:?
My quote on the gauge holder has been agreed at £20 + VAT and turns out the lady who quoted me the cheap price actually owns the company so thats good!
Just ordered some led sidelight bulbs for the number plate lights, front side lights and in the process of buying some more lights to try and make the scock cock scock pit a bit less dim :/
You'll see my plans for that shortly though...
Heres the fuse box I made for all my aftermarket gubbins, the bracket is aluminium so nice and light like originally on the car
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-01-25170641.jpg)
Hmm I agree the osram night breakers to me were no different from standard ones, was devistated after shelling out the dollar taking the bumper off and then replace both sidelight and main bulb to see they were no effin' different! Owell, as hated as they are on here I'm happy with my HIDS.
Quote from: "Lippy"My personal review on Osram Nightbreaker bulbs (h7 +90% light, facelift)
My existing bulbs were Osram but not tinted blue on the top and bottom of the bulbs (I think they are the OEM bulbs as previous owner said he didnt change any bulbs)
I fitted one bulb today and couldnt see any difference during the day which I guess can be expected, the upto 90% more light is accurate as upto 1000% would still be true... lol
I took her out for a drive in the dark, around town and down back roads etc... and finished my testing parked in absolute darkness up against a fence to look at the beam pattern. around town I honestly couldnt see any difference at all due to other lighting, in dimly lit areas ie inbetween street lamps I could see a small difference they were ever so slightly whiter and possable slightly brighter but nothing worth mentioning.
However on the back roads and areas with no other light you can see that the Nightbreaker bulb is both whiter and bluer, (its not a massive amount like HID's but I really didnt like avoiding police in the past because of HID's and they are now becomming illegal anyway) the brightness I would say is +10 / 15% in all honesty which is enough for me, the bulbs are still rated at 55watts each so no excessive draw through cables that are designed for that power bulb, the beam pattern seemed to be sharper where they kick left on the standard reflectors inside the lamp (might be due to the color difference). The light also seemed to be brighter at distance which is what it says on the packet so that is true also but not the 35meters it states to be fair.
For the £11 delivered I paid through Ebay with free delivery I'm pretty happy with them and would recommend them as an upgrade provided you dont mind fart arsing about fitting them as its so un-necessarily awkward and time consuming to do on our cars!
I have tested the Nightbreakers in H7 in a different car. They gave a metered 0.7 stop more light than whatever VAG usually use (I believe they where Osram too). That equates to about 70% improvement. The blue tint on the glass actually absorbs some light. Phillips Xtreme made a metered 0.85stop (85%) improvement. The Nightbreakers I had only lasted 3 months in the Fabia VRs and they gave up within 24 hours of each other. Just bought a set of H4 Nightbreakers for the Mini as they claim to have doubled the life. These new bulbs are definitely brighter than the Ring that was in there as a spare, and a fraction brighter than the 2 year old Philips Xtreme that was in the other side. Don't intend keeping the car long enough to need to replace them.
Where you can make some amazing gains is in the main beam. Using the HIR bulbs from Toshiba, slightly modified to fit the main beam, I got 1.6 stops improvement (so 160%) as well as a really solid and even illumination field. You can get them here http://www.finemotoring.com/.
Quantifying light output is difficult though. Twice as much light does not equal twice as bright to the human eye.
Im interested in these bulbs you have linked but they are pretty expensive at approx £40 per pair the common bulbs nightbreakers and extremes are only about £11 - £20...
Id be interested to see some pictures of beam parrerns! the website looks like it was programmed in DOS but doesnt mean they arent any good.
Quote from: "Lippy"I'm interested in these bulbs you have linked but they are pretty expensive at approx £40 per pair the common bulbs nightbreakers and extremes are only about £11 - £20...
Id be interested to see some pictures of beam parrerns! the website looks like it was programmed in DOS but doesnt mean they arent any good.
Only way to really appreciate them is to see the results from the car. I used to run 130W auxiliary driving lights on my Senator and these are brighter than they where. The beam pattern on the mains is normally a fairly even spread with a couple of darker areas vertical in the pattern just off centre. These bulbs just give a wide and solidly illuminated field. I think it is because the filaments are slightly fatter than the standard 9005 bulb. If you find yourself in the Essex area, get in touch and you can have a look for yourself.
Chris
I think it's great that you are getting on and modding your car to suit your needs :-) :-) :-)
This did make me chuckle though...
Quote from: "Lippy"Heres the fuse box I made for all my aftermarket gubbins, the bracket is aluminium so nice and light like originally on the car
Quote from: "Lippy"Thinking on mounting my 10lb Nitrous bottle in there at the moment s:? :? s:?
s:-D :-D s:-D
Unfortunately I have only ever been to Essex once and that was passing through working in Colchester and returning to London area. I might just buy a set of those bulbs and see for myself! what is the color temperature like? is it more white/blue than the OEM yellow/orange color? Any pictures would be greatly appreciated!
I love modding cars, anything that can be repainted, slightly changed in color to make it different from everyone elses or uprated from the standard part s:) :) s:) Its probably the worse addiction to have as its expensive and a waste of money but I do most of it myself and try to keep the budget reasonable :/
There are US-based sellers on eBay offering a pair of HIR bulbs for under £40 delivered, so that's not far off the Nightbreakers.
HTH, Mike.
Any chance you could link them in hb3 fitting or the ebay item number as i cant find them s:-( :-( s:-(
seriously considering getting a set
Does look like you would necessarily be interested with your statement about keeping the bits on show, but I was hoping from your previous experiments that you might be the person to try making an extra large frunk box out of fibreglass as there is a lot of space that the original box doesn't fill.
This is something I've been interested in doing for a while but not really got the brains for it, I reckon it could be 60-100% larger than the original but still fit to original fixings (plus some others around the side) thus allowing the spare tyre to stay in situ... obviously the lid wouldn't fit, but with a front strut brace I can't have a lid anyway.
Quote from: "onion86"Does look like you would necessarily be interested with your statement about keeping the bits on show, but I was hoping from your previous experiments that you might be the person to try making an extra large frunk box out of fibreglass as there is a lot of space that the original box doesn't fill.
This is something I've been interested in doing for a while but not really got the brains for it, I reckon it could be 60-100% larger than the original but still fit to original fixings (plus some others around the side) thus allowing the spare tyre to stay in situ... obviously the lid wouldn't fit, but with a front strut brace I can't have a lid anyway.
To be honest I dont think it would be worth doing, only reason I say that is because I dont think fibreglass would be that suitable which would mean you would need to make a mould and then get a plastic panel made using the mould which would be expensive, also getting the mould to be a nice curvy shape and not look like its got jagged edges all over the place would be a nightmare, other thing to take into consideration is that there are parts under there that get hot and you dont want to be putting fibreglass or plastic panels near heat.
I think you'd only get 50% bigger taking into consideration the areas to steer clear of and the shape it would leave might be pretty unusable?!?
If you were a large company and had access to decent machinery and you were going to mass produce it then yes I think it would be worth doing but for me it would be just too time consuming tbh...
I just removed my spare tyre and if I get a puncture the other half will need to bring it out to me s:) :) s:) on long journeys id put it back in though
Quote from: "Lippy"Any chance you could link them in hb3 fitting or the ebay item number as i cant find them s:-( :-( s:-(
seriously considering getting a set
You are looking for HIR 9011 bulb from Phillips. They have taken over manufacturing from Toshiba. You have to cut one of the tabs down to convert it to fit the HB3 lamp housing. Found them for £29 on ebay, not sure on shipping fees. There are some other HIR bulbs out there, but are known to be little better than normal bulbs.
Chris
Quote from: "ChrisGB"Quote from: "Lippy"Any chance you could link them in hb3 fitting or the ebay item number as i cant find them s:-( :-( s:-(
seriously considering getting a set
You are looking for HIR 9011 bulb from Phillips. They have taken over manufacturing from Toshiba. You have to cut one of the tabs down to convert it to fit the HB3 lamp housing. Found them for £29 on ebay, not sure on shipping fees. There are some other HIR bulbs out there, but are known to be little better than normal bulbs.
Chris
have you bought these bulbs youself Chris? Im just thinking if they are tried and tested then id get a set but I dont want to do the dummy run and find they dont fit :/
Quote from: "Lippy"Quote from: "ChrisGB"Quote from: "Lippy"Any chance you could link them in hb3 fitting or the ebay item number as i cant find them s:-( :-( s:-(
seriously considering getting a set
You are looking for HIR 9011 bulb from Phillips. They have taken over manufacturing from Toshiba. You have to cut one of the tabs down to convert it to fit the HB3 lamp housing. Found them for £29 on ebay, not sure on shipping fees. There are some other HIR bulbs out there, but are known to be little better than normal bulbs.
Chris
have you bought these bulbs youself Chris? I'm just thinking if they are tried and tested then id get a set but I dont want to do the dummy run and find they dont fit :/
The ones I run are the Toshiba ones. I know that the patent passed to Phillips and the bulbs look identical. How they perform I have no idea, but if one of my mains blows, I would give the Phillips a punt. They are still made because they are OEM fitting in Corvettes and in some combine harvesters.
Chris
Quote from: "Lippy"I love modding cars, anything that can be repainted, slightly changed in color to make it different from everyone elses or uprated from the standard part s:) :) s:) Its probably the worse addiction to have as its expensive and a waste of money but I do most of it myself and try to keep the budget reasonable :/
All looking good mate
Hurry up and extend the centre console ,then i can see how you did it s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Lippy"Unfortunately I have only ever been to Essex once and that was passing through working in Colchester and returning to London area. I might just buy a set of those bulbs and see for myself! what is the color temperature like? is it more white/blue than the OEM yellow/orange color? Any pictures would be greatly appreciated!
I love modding cars, anything that can be repainted, slightly changed in color to make it different from everyone elses or uprated from the standard part s:) :) s:) Its probably the worse addiction to have as its expensive and a waste of money but I do most of it myself and try to keep the budget reasonable :/
Thing with main beam bulbs is that if you are using them as they should be used, no one will ever know the colour anyway. They are supposed to be 3600K. This is about mid way between a 2800K standard halogen and a 4300K white HID. The blue HID are normally around 6400K. Blue is not good though as it reduces visible contrast and makes judging distance more difficult.
Chris
Blue hids are 8000 kelvin but i get what you mean i wont be using them to blind people with! if they are 3600 kelvin then that is perfect imo! have you got these hir s fitted to your car currently?
Quote from: "Lippy"Blue hids are 8000 kelvin but i get what you mean i wont be using them to blind people with! if they are 3600 kelvin then that is perfect imo! have you got these hir s fitted to your car currently?
The HID burners are standard at around 4300K. Manufacturers introduce compounds into the gas to tint the colour. The down side of this is that it reduces both light output and visual contrast. Most manufactures fit something around 6400K these days as it is more fashionable and these are blue tinted. The aftermarket takes things further with 8000K and beyond. Some of these are simply dangerous as the light output is so poor.
I still have the HIR bulbs in my car, properly effective. I have a spare set of compact additional main beam lights that I was going to mount, but against the HIR bulbs, you cannot even tell if they are on or off.
Chris
Cool thats all i needed to know!
Where do i order i set from and how much are the hir s? (considering you rate them so highly)
Any links would be much appreciated or brand etc...
Quote from: "Lippy"Cool thats all i needed to know!
Where do i order i set from and how much are the hir s? (considering you rate them so highly)
Any links would be much appreciated or brand etc...
m http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-9011-HI ... es&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-9011-HIR1-X-2-BULBS-C1-12V-65W-PX20D-COMPATIBLE-TOSHIBA-LOW-HIGH-BEAM-OE-/140607310182?hash=item20bcd94966&item=140607310182&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr) m
However, reading up on the Philips HIR1 it would appear that these are not actual HIR bulbs, On this basis I would possibly go for something else. Can you get Philips Xtreme or Osram Nightbreaker in the right size?
Chris
Been tinkering a little today (not for long as its been bloody cold outside!)
Basic idea behind this modification is that I love actually having a glove box in this car but I can never find anything in there especially from the drivers seat...
I bought some sideways firing white SMD strips through Ebay and cut to length, used a small grommet to hide the cables through out of sight, used a car alarm pin switch (short version) but removed 45% odd of the internal spring as it made shutting the glove box difficult with the whole spring in there (usually pushes a bonnet open not a flimsy plastic glovebox)
I still need to wire the + cable from SMD's to a relay which will then connect to my fuse box I made the other day s:) :) s:)
took a little while to do as I didnt want anything visable and being vary careful about damaging the condition of the car.
Heres a piccy, should be fairly self explanitary after reading the above (sorry about blurry piccy but I was bent down in the footwell looking up to actually see it all)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/2012-02-03132623.jpg)
I did it about 3 years ago
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/uktotty/Roadster/CIMG1417.jpg)
And the rear bins
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/uktotty/Roadster/finished-1.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/uktotty/Roadster/DSC01167.jpg)
Looks good
Ive just put some in the cubby boxes behind the seats ,
wired to the door shut switches ,after all you cant get in the boxes unless the door is open
And im sure someone else did it years before you too;-)
I didnt want any bulbs on show in mine, my last cars have looked like disco on wheels and im sticking to accent lighting on this one.
Did you wire yours to a door open switch to get the lights to turn on?
Cheers trev, seems like this is a fairly common mod but deffinately worth doing, i think im going to have some dim red lights in the cubby holes too!
Quote from: "Lippy"Did you wire yours to a door open switch to get the lights to turn on?
Push to break switch in the glove box
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/uktotty/Roadster/CIMG1415-1.jpg)
Few little updates s:) :) s:)
Removed the dash dimmer switch and taped up behind the dash as its never too bright (not really bright enough) and it just stays as bright as maximum, the passenger side window lock button wasnt needed either so put bullet connections on that and got rid of that too, that made 2 spaces which d1ck2ski helped me fill with some blanking plates (cheers dude).
You cant fit the standard 23mm switches in these plates without them splitting or being really flimsy so I ordered some 12mm hole versions from Ebay for £12 for 4, they have illuminated centres (red led's).
One switch kills the negative to the lighting relay and the 2nd stage accessory Ignition relay incase I ever want to turn off the lights & gauges & chargers etc... the other switch forces both relays on without the keys in the ignition s:) :) s:)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120219_143709.jpg)
Im waiting on a voltmeter from glowshift to fill the final hole but here is the finished dash top gauge holder
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120219_155304.jpg)
Second gauge holder construction... Its P40 fibreglass filler that holds it all in place but the circles are held perfectly in line with each other by a thin bit of plastic screwed to the top and bottom of all 3 black bits. This is being sent away to be flocked along with the headunit surround and the heater control panel but im waiting on post for some red sample colors for flocking.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120212_152921.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120213_230215.jpg)
where have you gone?
Quote from: "JoniiBoii"where have you gone?
Still here but had to move out from living with the girlfriend etc etc... its been a messy month since my last post, things are on the up now though.
Ive done some little bits inbetween but nothing worth screaming about.
My voltmeter was received and is now filling the top gauge holder hole
The piping to my boost gauge is now red silicone tubing and runs fron intake to boost controller and then to gauge s:) :) s:)
I got my second gauge holder back today from Get Flocked, its had the cup holder fitted back in and temporarily mounted in situ below the headunit. The red looks a little out of place as it only the one thing at the moment that is that color but im sending more off on the 21st of this month (payday)
I had the rear bumper off and refitted the missing centre inserts that were off when I got the car (looks better now!)
Oh a few weeks ago I removed all the frunk plastic and found some surface rust so thats been temporarily treated to hold it at bay whilst I wait for the weather to get better so that I can repaint the whole frunk area with rust proof paint.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120317_204941.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120317_191346.jpg)
You wont regret it Lippy,choosing the "2" over the girlfriend,only one winner...... s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Chris H"You wont regret it Lippy,choosing the "2" over the girlfriend,only one winner...... s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I didnt have to chooe between the 2 lol, I wouldnt get rid of the 2 if I was asked though...
Mini update, got a bit annoyed the other day when I opened my car door parked on a slant and clipped the door bottom on the kerb :/, couldnt see a it was dark! So I had the idea of using the 2 x 50cm strips of SMD's that I bought a couple of months ago as door accent lights s:) :) s:) , they came out a little brighter than I thought they would but all the better for puddle spotting.
I wired them up from the door pin switch to a relay so without lights or ignition on the light come on when the door is opened, but I also put in a trigger to that relay from my footwell light so that they are on when the interiour lights are on, wiring was a bit confusing but I got there in the end s:) :) s:)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120325_193844.jpg)
Love it!!!! Looks immense!
I know Nathan has something similar on his! Are the LEDs stuck on the bottom of the door trim? I assume they do not catch on the door when it shuts? Have you drilled into the trim to run a cable through to the interior lighting relay???
Quote from: "JiMR2"Love it!!!! Looks immense!
I know Nathan has something similar on his! Are the LEDs stuck on the bottom of the door trim? I assume they do not catch on the door when it shuts? Have you drilled into the trim to run a cable through to the interior lighting relay???
Its smd strip lights with 1mm thick 3m vhb foam tape only 2mm thick in total and it doesnt catch at all... its using the speaker cables as i uprated them to proper cables.
Its standard on some new cars but not in red.
I love them so far!
Got more just arrived in the post and doing the rear storage bins soon and will have some acrylic windows in the doors s;-) ;-) s;-)
Il post up when done
Well thanks to Richard @ Redline Tuning my car is currently running smoothly on the map the previous owner had done by him.
The parts i wanted before running the higher boost are in the picture below.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120428_112737.jpg)
Here are the 3 dastek units, one of them is the piggyback, one is an electronic boost controller and the other one i have no idea about but its a dastek unit
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20120428_113230.jpg)
Here is my gauges in the dark, got bored waiting for a fruend in the dark
Its been a while since ive last been on here but I havent written off the MR2 s:) :) s:)
Currently looking into fitting a catch tank, mocal oil cooler and thermostatic plate and also trying to diagnose a poor starting problem which has come about in the last couple of weeks s:( :( s:(
(posted in problems section for help/moral support lol)
Ive done a few bits and pieces which I need to update but havent had the time recently unfortunately.
poor starting seems to have sorted itself out on its own somehow... only things changed is the plugs to iridiums (problem was still there for a while) and she has had an oil change. Happy that the problem has gone !!! Ive nearly finished off paying the loan I got out to buy the car so should have loads of spare cash soon...
Im thinking on removing the front door cards completely and making some flat panel ones, using the OEM door handles but fitting 2 sets of front components s:) :) s:) not too sure on that yet though
Been looking for ages to see if there is anything out there that I like body kit wise and wanted a few opinions, please be gentle...
Was thinking on this front lip with Mk1 bumper...
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/front.png)
These side skirts
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/spoiler.jpg)
This rear lip & spoiler
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/rear.jpg)
Lip looks good, but loads of work to get it to fit a MK1 bumper!!
I know you are pretty good with fibreglass though
This style of kit is very popular in the US, lots of them have it. Side skirts always look odd to me as they rise up towards the rear arches. This stuff is very subjective, but I am not a fan of the side skirts and unless that rear wing is for some serious purpose, I wouldn't go for it. If you like it, then that's fine though.
Liking the idea of the front but id consider, reconsidering the rear and skirt options. Im with Loadswine re the skirts and the rear lip IMO looks like its been very much stuck on as an after though (even though it has s;) ;) s;) )
I didnt realise the front bumper needed loads of work to fit to a mk2 s:( :( s:( whats the issue with them? are the mounting points not in the same place nathan?
May got for flatter sideskirts tbh as im not a huge fan myself :/
I like the rear splitter but it would need to be blended in so as it looks like it came that way!!!
/rear spoiler I really like as ive not seen it before on an MR2, I know theres prob a reason for it lol
Was thinking some rota grids all round, 16's on the front and 17's on the rear would finish it off a treat and maybe some body color canards on the front bumper??
hardtop is on the shopping list too but thats a very long list above!
It's the lip that would need work to fit a facelift bumper as the lip is designed for a pre facelift bumper
Mine with TRD kit and c-one GT wing
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r190/v1nny1/111211_8844.jpg)
Quote from: "vinp182"Mine with TRD kit and c-one GT wing
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r190/v1nny1/111211_8844.jpg)
Looks mint mate
Quote from: "vinp182"It's the lip that would need work to fit a facelift bumper as the lip is designed for a pre facelift bumper
So not a MK1 at all then?
I assume he means pre facelift not mk1. Although I could be wrong
Wow its been a while since ive been on my own thread lol.
I like the kit simmers! looks tidy!
sorry shouldnt have said mk1, im ambitious but not that far lol, I meant pre facelift bumper but Ive decided against that now!
Just ordered some C-One Side intake panels, prob going to be in black along with black wingmirrors, hardtop, windscreen surrounds and my new black headlights which il upload later tonight prob...
Tempted to get some Speed source engine mounts or the kirks ones but cant see where to buy the kirks ones from (ive searched!)
just had my yearly bonus so watch this space s:) :) s:)
Few bits and bobs ive done recently, nothing major but tidying up etc...
Painted the rusty mild steel manifold...
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130308_172433.jpg)
Heatwrapped the manifold and most of the tubing too
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130318_162653.jpg)
Added a little subtle color to the engine top
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130318_162807.jpg)
Sprayed the insides of the front headlights and removed the orange lenses (de-tango'd)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130322_212555.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130322_212609.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130404_133115.jpg)
This is an ongoing project that I havent completed yet
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130401_005642.jpg)
Rear inserts removed and sprayed black
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130404_133142.jpg)
Tinted the 3rd breaklight surround to match the rest
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130404_133151.jpg)
Oh and a random picture of my little blower s:) :) s:)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130308_172517.jpg)
Ive spent quite a bit of money recently on some parts and will reveal plans shortly, when the red dials are completed, I might post a how to guide not sure yet
Not too impressed with the state of my radiator, its not looking too healthy but im going to replace it with a thicker core aluminium one in the next couple of weeks!
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130321_130952.jpg) (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/BassDominator/media/SP240/20130321_130952.jpg.html)
I bought a genuine plastic jap import splitter a week ago, the condition was shocking, spray work was terrible but I knew this when I bought it... Im thinking I might get this sprayed in black along with some other parts that are on order (silver is the other option but seems a bit boring)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130413_115711.jpg) (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/BassDominator/media/SP240/20130413_115711.jpg.html)
Went to a friends house the other day who has just moved into the 4th floor in a block of flats, seemed like a good opportunity for a high rise picture!
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130419_174151.jpg) (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/BassDominator/media/SP240/20130419_174151.jpg.html)
My emissions are high enough that every 3rd or 4th start of the car the engine warning light comes on with the error code P0420 (or something simular) so I bought a stainless steel M18 Lambda bolt to fill the exhaust and also an aluminium lambda sleeve to protect and keep the heat in the lambda when driving (Total cost £28)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130420_195452.jpg) (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/BassDominator/media/SP240/20130420_195452.jpg.html)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff60/BassDominator/SP240/20130420_200230.jpg) (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/BassDominator/media/SP240/20130420_200230.jpg.html)