Following on from my thread here http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=37680&p=449343&hilit=2zz+turbo#p449343
i thought i would start a project thread detailing the trials and tribulations we will go through in converting a '53 plate facelift roadster to 2zz turbo s:D :D s:D and then all the build will be in one place.
So, where to begin,the plan is to take these two and cross breed them to make a monster,stage one will be to convert to 2zz,then later 2zz turbo.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0036.jpg)
Over at the Spitstop,myself Nic and Ste (and at various times other members and two guys from Charlesworth garage) have been stripping the Corolla of it's engine and parts and we are now at the stage of disposing of the shell,here are some pics of the stripdown.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/f3f5ca71.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/90c322c8.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0097.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0088.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0090.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0120.jpg)
And one Pete took s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
(http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/vv314/sonicbjork/IMAG0122.jpg)
And also the removed engine ready to begin prep for going into the roadster
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0092.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0093.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0094.jpg)
Here are a few goodies for the engine
2zz swap manifold
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0049.jpg)
Oil cap ,i know s:lol: :lol: s:lol: but i thought it was cool
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0050.jpg)
MWR swap mount
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0047.jpg)
Lightened flywheel
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0033.jpg)
So far works has gone relatively smooth,the only hitch being an awful wet dog smell coming from the Corolla, this was discovered to be a dead mouse/rat in the washer bottle, this was found after trying to tip out the contents and only a dribble would come out,after a good shake the whole foul scock cock scock tail fell out and stank something rotten,we believe this is why the car was sold,the stench must have been unbeareable s:lol: :lol: s:lol: I must also thank Ste for hosting this conversion and also for taking charge and overseeing the sale of Corolla parts,this has given the poor guy major headaches with playing PM tennis on Corolla club s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
So there you have it, lot's done and loads to do,i will update this thread as we go s:D :D s:D
Steve
What engine works are you planning? I do love the 2zz with the lift its the only thing my engine is missing.
Great project. Bookmarked.
This will be interesting reading! Best of luck s:) :) s:)
Looking good. You'll love the 2 with lift s:D :D s:D
Thought about replacing any seals that typically go before putting the engine in? (i.e. timing chain cover gasket, main crank seal. Had my 2zz for a year and they both went)
Good luck with the project Steve, promises to be very interesting.
Impressed at how you guys made such short work of the Rolla! s:) :) s:)
Thanks for the encouragement guys s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "rbuckingham"What engine works are you planning? I do love the 2zz with the lift its the only thing my engine is missing.
Nothing too serious, the valve cover is coming off and the updated lift bolts are going in as a precaution,it likely has them but for a few quid i'm not taking the risk. Other than that we need to blank off a few water outlets on the stainless pipe that runs across the back of the engine as they are not used on the roadster. We also need to remove the 2zz loom as it is not used for the conversion,as odd as it seems you use the 1zz loom and add in wires for the lift OCV and lift pressure sensor (which i broke s:oops: :oops: s:oops: and have a new one to fit ) We also need to swap the knock sensor for a 1zz item, some early 2zz ones are compatible but this is an '02 engine and has a two wire sensor. I will be running the engine on an early Celica ecu to start with (the Corolla one will work but can't drive the roadsters instruments).
Quote from: "dcod"Looking good. You'll love the 2 with lift s:D :D s:D
Thought about replacing any seals that typically go before putting the engine in? (i.e. timing chain cover gasket, main crank seal. Had my 2zz for a year and they both went)
I hadn't thought about doing this as the engine is very dry and has no leaks, would be a shame to take it apart. I may wait as i feel i may want to put forged pistons in at a later date.
Quote from: "loadswine"Good luck with the project Steve, promises to be very interesting.
Impressed at how you guys made such short work of the Rolla! s:) :) s:)
We have the guys from Charlesworth to thank for the progress, the car was driven into place at 11am and by 7pm it was 90% gutted, they worked like an F1 pit crew round the front stripping the engine bay in no time s8) 8) s8) s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Well I will be interested on what pressure it takes with the 11.5:1 engine compression ratio.
About 7psi from what i've read on spyderchat is ok for a stock 2zz.
Quote from: "steve-m-uk"About 7psi from what i've read on spyderchat is ok for a stock 2zz.
yeah 7 - 8 psi is what i come to work out, however i will find out soon what i can push on mine which is basically a 2zz but without lift, when it goes to be mapped with the turbo on.
I'll keep an eye on that one, the high compression ratio low boost thing is where the rally teams started heading as its great for response s8-) 8-) s8-)
Quote from: "steve-m-uk"I'll keep an eye on that one, the high compression ratio low boost thing is where the rally teams started heading as its great for response s8-) 8-) s8-)
that my thought, cant think of the manufacture but i think it skydrive or something is the type of technology and they got a petrol at 14:1 or something like that making some good power
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Quote from: "steve-m-uk"About 7psi from what i've read on spyderchat is ok for a stock 2zz.
yeah 7 - 8 psi is what i come to work out, however i will find out soon what i can push on mine which is basically a 2zz but without lift, when it goes to be mapped with the turbo on.
as I remeber yours is a 2 litre overbore 1zz?
how is that a 2zz without lift?
Great to see this Steve - I will be following this with interest (and yes maybe just a little bit of jealousy) s:D :D s:D
One thing - You say 2zz, then later Turbo, I bet it won't be much later s:evil: :evil: s:evil:
Can't wait to see your results.
Paul
This thread should be renamed 'Steve-m-uk's project: mental!'....the good kind of course s:) :) s:) This should be some car when you're finished Steve! Will be keeping an eye on it
Rogue Motorsport when i collected my 2ZZ from them, knowing I have a GT2860RS MX5 said whatever I do don't turbo it as if used on track or hard in general it'll last all of 5 minutes.
These are not strong engines.
Stock cooling system doesn't cope with just the 2ZZ, quarter of an hour of track work gets me up to 108oC, they said all the V6 or 2ZZ track only / race cars they build have the front reworked to have a high volume rad and vented ducted bonnet a la Elise.
really? i have been getting my info from spyderchat where there are a few 2zz turbo's being used as daily drivers. Suppose a lot depends on the map, if there is no det then it will be fine. The cooling problem i've not heard about before,only that 2zz roadsters can suffer from air locks,sure we can overcome any problems that present themselves s:) :) s:)
Another day at the Spitstop saw the loom removed from the 2zz and also the valve cover removed to check the lift bolts and have a general look at what condition the engine was in.
Surprised is the best word i think for what i saw when the cover came off
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0148.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0149.jpg)
Very clean in there,this was clearly a looked after engine, very pleased about that s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Next i removed the lift bolts to inspect and replace them,expecting to find worn originals i discovered the engine already had the updated bolts fitted,they were ever so slightly worn though and i had new so in they went s:) :) s:)
Here you can see the removed lift bolt next to the new one
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0150.jpg)
And a closer picture to show where the wear occurs, just where the taper begins you can see the shiny patch, on the old style bolts this would wear right through and the bolt would fail s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0151.jpg)
As mentioned earlier in the thread i expected to need to change the knock sensor from a two wire to a single one,this would require removal of the inlet manifold and is a s:!: :!: s:!: s:!: :!: s:!: s:!: :!: s:!: of a job, how lucky then that when i shone a torch up and had a look i found a single wire knock sensor so no need to delve any further s:) :) s:) Whilst i was in that area i borrowed s:roll: :roll: s:roll: a dipstick from a spare 1zz and reshaped it to suit the 2zz, the 2zz one wont work as it is round the wrong side of the engine when fitted in the roadster.
I am now back home re-pinning my boomslang harness which used to go between my e-manage and roadster ecu, i will be using this loom to make the necessary wiring changes thereby making the job plug n' play.
Next up i will be ordering some new flywheel bolts,all fluids and filter etc
The planned install date is week beginning 11th June s:D :D s:D fingers crossed for a hassle free install.
Quick question Steve, did the 2zz manifold have precats?
No bud it only has a regular cat in the exhaust system underneath the corolla/celica , toyota used an auxiliary air pump to get the cat heated quicker,i won't be using it though s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I doubt the Corolla was built for California.
Whats the gearbox plan?
Common consensus is to use the 2zz box but this has three issues for my conversion, first the shifter mechanism is on the wrong side requiring parts to be bought to rectify, secondly the 2zz box has no LSD so would need to fit that at extra cost and thirdly the ratios are different, perfect for a normally aspirated 2zz being so short ratio to keep it in lift but sacrificing motorway cruising revs,but as i will be going turbo i don't need such short gearing and prefer to keep the roadster box and retain good low revs cruising,lsd,and the top speed will be outrageous s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
If you want a possible buyer for surplus parts, Hygrade Motor Spares, Oldham are an option. The boss, Saf is a good guy, buys a few bits from me. Hes just off your route from Spits to Leeds.
Cheers bud s:smile: :smile: s:smile:
Well today I have carried on with the wiring , it looks complicated but really isn't , made a lot easier by doing the alterations to the boomslang harness,with the added bonus of already having my e-manage plumbed in. The idea is to put a zero map on the unit so when I fire up the engine as an na the e-manage will not interfere with the stock ecu ,but when I go turbo I can map it to suit.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0154.jpg)
I know some will say the e-manage is not as good as a power fc but it retains obdII and will protect the engine from knock which has to be a good thing.
That header is going to choke the HP out of the 2zz. We had someone with a similar header and they lost 15 hp from it. I started looking at Dyno graps and mods and almost everyone with that type header had significantly lower HP numbers. Its not a very good design, you need something a bit more freeflowing instead of that bottleneck at the bottom.
That is a great looking engine inside.
Quote from: "triz"That header is going to choke the HP out of the 2zz. We had someone with a similar header and they lost 15 hp from it. I started looking at Dyno graps and mods and almost everyone with that type header had significantly lower HP numbers. Its not a very good design, you need something a bit more freeflowing instead of that bottleneck at the bottom.
That is a great looking engine inside.
I agree triz , but it's only a temporary measure just to get it up and running , it will be turbo fairly soon after so there wasn't much point in spending a lot on an na header. It looks like the bottleneck is at the bottom where the pipes meet, I think an exhaust fabricator could easily cut the bottleneck off and weld in some larger pipes though,may look at doing this.
Some of the service bits have arrived in readiness for next weeks swap, genuine Toyota oil filter and 5L of Fuchs titan race pro s 5w-30 from Opie s:D :D s:D
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0165.jpg)
And as i couldn't face watching the dross on TV this evening i popped outside and removed my instrument cluster to do a little mini mod
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0157-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0160.jpg)
TTE logo'd tacho s8) 8) s8) using a replica of the TTE badge found on bodykit parts manufactured by TTE s:) :) s:)
Going to Toyota tomorrow morning to pick up new flywheel bolts 8 for £63 s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes: still,much better than the flywheel coming off at 8300rpm s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
Well tomorrow is the day, work begins removing the 1zz from my roadster s:) :) s:) however today was spent fitting the flywheel and painting the valve cover in preparation for tomorrow. Here are some pictures from today
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0174.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0173-1.jpg)
Couldn't resist highlighting this
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0177-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0171-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0172-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0176-1.jpg)
The white dots on the flywheel bolts are tip-ex marks i made so when the bolts are torqued up to 36 lb/ft i can then see how much to turn them for the final 90 degree angle tighten up s8) 8) s8)
Just the loom to add now when i remove it from the 1zz tomorrow s:) :) s:)
All looking good, back on the track this friday with my 2ZZGE :-) :-) :-)
Regards my don't turbo comments track cars suffer so much more than road cars so on road a turbo maybe fine but I'd not go there for track. My car spent a lot of time on the dyno with different manifolds, exhausts etc to get the best from it. It really is very good. You may question the need for a turbo when you drive yours as an na for a bit.
Quote from: "steve b"All looking good, back on the track this friday with my 2ZZGE :-) :-) :-)
Regards my don't turbo comments track cars suffer so much more than road cars so on road a turbo maybe fine but I'd not go there for track. My car spent a lot of time on the dyno with different manifolds, exhausts etc to get the best from it. It really is very good. You may question the need for a turbo when you drive yours as an na for a bit.
Mine will likely not see a track but will keep an eye on the temps anyway s:D :D s:D
Well what a busy two days over at the Spitstop, after a late start on Monday (i slept in doh s:oops: :oops: s:oops: ) work began on taking my car apart to remove the 1zz , to our surprise we didn't encounter too much drama and bolts we expected to be seized solid were not s:) :) s:)
Here we are mid strip
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0180-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0182-1.jpg)
After disconnecting all the pipes and pulling the wiring loom to the ecu through into the engine bay we lowered the engine and box onto the floor and pulled it out from underneath the car
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0183-1.jpg)
And then removed the gearbox to reveal the ACT clutch s8) 8) s8)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0186.jpg)
Whilst the engine was missing i took the chance to clean the engine bay as it was filthy
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0185.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0187-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0184.jpg)
We then set about removing the wiring loom from the 1zz and fitting it to the 2zz, all the plugs fit perfectly apart from three wires which needed to be added to the loom for the lift OCV and lift oil pressure sensor. Ste removed these from the 2zz loom and we added them to the 1zz one,Ste had a clever idea of using some old O2 sensor outer sleeving to run the wires down the outside of the 1zz loom,looks very stock s8) 8) s8) We then fitted the clutch and gearbox which was tough but got there in the end s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0171-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0188-1.jpg)
So with the 2zz motor ready to fit we slid it under the roadster ready to bolt the mounts in place
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0190-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0191.jpg)
This went fairly straight forward as we lowered the body down to meet the engine so as not to need an engine hoist.
We then set about plumbing the 2zz in and connecting all the plugs etc, and fitting the 2zz manifold. At this point we took the roadster cat to a local exhaust fabricator to have an O2 bung welded in just where the pipes go into one,the 2zz only has two O2 sensors, a main one and an after cat one.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0192-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0193-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0195-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0194-1.jpg)
After collecting the modified cat pipe we fitted the rear end panels back onto the car and the rest of the exhaust system,the gaskets supplied with the manifold were rubbish but all i had so i will replace them shortly.
Here is the new position for the O2 sensor
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0200-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0196-2.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0197-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0179-1.jpg)
At this point we changed the oil filter and fitted my greddy sandwich plate then filled the engine with oil and coolant and removed the EFI fuse to prevent the injectors from working whilst we cranked the car over to get oil pressure. A few cranks and the oil light went out showing all was good.
The fuse was replaced and with a single crank the engine coughed and spluttered whilst the fuel rail got pressurized and then settled to a steady fast idle s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: after a few minutes running the idle started to fall to a more normal level and we had a check around for leaks etc, completely dry underneath but a whiff of fuel above. On checking the fuel rail we discovered a tiny leak on injector 3 ,so after letting the engine cool we pulled the rail and replaced the top sealing ring on injector 3 then refitted it all, success no more leaks s8) 8) s8)
At this point (Tuesday evening) we took the car for a little local run to test it, all seemed fine with no nasty smells or noises. Shortly afterwards i set off home from Ste's place, a 60mile journey mostly motorway ,the car was faultless giving smooth power and feeling very similar to before except more powerful. The trip home was spent with the window down and radio off listening and keeping an eye on gauges and warning lights but there were no issues at all, even obdII was happy with no codes being shown s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
So there you have it, two days to drive in 1zz and drive out 2zz s:shock: :shock: s:shock: using hand tools (and one impact gun).
I can't thank Ste enough for firstly allowing this to take place at Spitstop and secondly for all his help and advice during the conversion without which i likely wouldn't have taken the job on s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown: s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown: and also a huge thanks to the other guys who have helped along the way including but not limited to Nic wabbitkilla ,PeteT,John T, the guys at Charlesworth and the corolla club guys who came over to Spitstop at various times during the conversion, thankyou so much s:D :D s:D
Now anyone want to buy some used corolla parts ? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Well done fella, looks a smooth and semi painless process! Top MR'ing work!
Superb Steve. You could write a cracking "How To" from your experience.
List of reqd bits, rough costs etc.
Quote from: "dick2ski"Superb Steve. You could write a cracking "How To" from your experience.
List of reqd bits, rough costs etc.
that would be a good idea as the roadster becomes more afforable and with early 1zz's going pop there might be more of a call on going 2zz.
so how long till the turbo gets put on, waiting to see how it goes then.
Like I said on the "dark site", well done Steve ... hugely rewarding to see it go so smoothly.
I am going to drive the car n/a for a while and get a feel for it,very odd having all that rev range to use s:) :) s:) turbo will happen though s8) 8) s8)
As for the how to guide that's not a bad idea and something we could do at a basic level i.e listing parts required and what wiring changes to make then going onto what goes where etc ,will have a word with Ste and see what we can do s8) 8) s8)
Been out today ,not far but enough to show any issues, no leaks to be seen and running lovely. I did get a code but think it was my fault for not fitting the EVAP pipework , i unplugged the solonoid for the charcoal canister and so far it hasn't returned, the code was P0450.
The gasket on the flange where the 3 amigos reside has started blowing as expected, so i am currently waiting for the manifold to cool so i can fit a genuine toyota gasket and cure it.
If you need better pics for your guide I can supply a car ready to mod! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
And youll need two gaskets! s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "dick2ski"If you need better pics for your guide I can supply a car ready to mod! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
And youll need two gaskets! s:) :) s:)
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: i bet you can , i have a pair of the crush gaskets at the ready s:D :D s:D
Well done to you and Ste, that looks a super job. Be interested to see how you find the gearbox with the 2zz.
Thanks s:D :D s:D it does seem to take a long time to get into lift , but that will be a product of the longer gears on the roadster box,i knew this before starting though so no problem as that's where the turbo will come in,it will fill in the bottom end and once the boost comes in it will quickly reach lift s:D :D s:D seems to rev for ever though ,feel like a right hooligan trying to get into lift s:lol: :lol: s:lol: can see blokes at the side of the road thinking FFS will you change gear ,and i'm only just reaching lift s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
What cars are suitable to provide the 2ZZ please Steve?
Best donor is a celica t-sport (also known as a celica 190) 1999-2002 as with this you can use the ecu (providing you have the key) and the throttle body still uses a cable operated butterfly.
Second comes the Corolla t-sport , again upto 2002 ,you can't use the ecu as it won't drive the roadster clocks so budget for an ecu.
Third is either corolla or celica 2003 onward, with these you need to swap the inlet manifold for an earlier cable operated one as they went drive by wire and also fit the roadster single wire knock sensor as the later 2zz's went to a two wire sensor.
Fourth is the Lotus elise or exige , not too sure on this but i do know the throttle body is different and ecu is likely different too.
In all cases you will need to mod the gearbox if you want to use the 2zz box and add LSD,or you can use the roadster box plug n play, your clutch and cover will fit the 2zz flywheel.
Is the Celica 190 the one with the letterbox in the front bumper?
Yes but not sure if the 1zz version has that too , best way to check is under the bonnet.
Wow. I blinked and missed it! Nice job s:D :D s:D I saw the engine on the floor of Ste's garage a few days ago and had visions of you guys having sleepless nights with soldering irons trying to bring a Frankenstein to life. Looks like a much simpler job. Great result.
Thanks s:) :) s:) it was made much easier by having a boomslang harness ( goes in-between the ecu and the loom) so I could do 99% of the wiring up at home on the desk and then just plug it in either end when the engine was in. Ste soldered the remaining 3 wires inside the storage bin next to the ecu and that was all that was required on the wiring front.
Today i tidied up some of the cables and coolant pipes and routed them securely , whilst i was in there i removed the make do and mend air intake we cobbled together to get the car going and took measurements to order some silicone hoses to make an induction kit.
I will re-use the maf tube from the corolla airbox which i cut out leaving just the tube and the vane at it's entry and on the end will fit this
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0201-1.jpg)
The Apexi filter, not the cat,she just turned up one day and never left s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I have also fixed the blowing exhaust flange with two Toyota gaskets, the one that came in the kit was useless and didn't seal at all as can be seen by this picture
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0199-1.jpg)
Note that i had to trim the outer holes just so it would fit at all s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
And here is a pic i took last night, myself PeteT and my mate John went out for a carvery s:D :D s:D and when we came out we had been joined by this little thing, i thought the roadster was small s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0198-2.jpg)
Looking great.
Just found this on YT (2zz turbo) s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
[youtube:lmfusf9z]qXg_Zgt3V4g[/youtube:lmfusf9z]
Steve would you mind posting a pic of the transmission wiring. What Im looking for is the black ground and where to connect it to. Transmission to ???? and the other thick black cable. I believe its part of the positive battery terminal but it has to connectors and I cant figure out how both connect. I lost my picture and my label somehow when I swapped it. Much appreciated. BTW engine looks great!
Great work Steve! s:D :D s:D
Thanks guys, Triz i will go outside and take a couple of photo's for you. s:) :) s:)
Triz i hope these are what you need, if not ask and i'll get more
inner strut tower earth connection .goes on from here to negative terminal on battery
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0229.jpg)
same cable coming up inner strut tower, and also positive cables
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0230.jpg)
The positive has two heavy cables and they clip together as can be seen in this photo
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0232-1.jpg)
Yesterday over at the Spitstop we swapped Nic's rear beam and did some other tinkering , i also fitted some A2 grade stainless hex bolts i found from a seller on ebay, just went round replacing any m6 bolts that were visible,it's a small but effective mod , just waiting for the Lotus coil pack cover to turn up now s:D :D s:D Just been out to take the photo's above and whilst there i checked the oil and water,not used a drop of either and i have been using lift as often as possible s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0231.jpg)
Nice :-) :-) :-)
Today as it was warm out i decided to do a bit of tinkering after work so went outside and fitted the Lotus exige injector cover that i ordered a few days ago, it needed a tiny bit of cutting down on one side as it fouled the fuel rail pipe on the roadster but tidies up the look of the engine a treat, it is of course bolted in place with stainless bolts s8) 8) s8)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0233-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0234-1.jpg)
I also keep feeding this little beauty oil and spinning it every few days just to keep it healthy s:D :D s:D
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0235.jpg)
s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Mmmm, I bet lift is epic!...nevermind knowing a turbo is yet to come! Lucky thing! Keep at it Steve! s:D :D s:D
It's entertaining Chris ,worked out by the revs it can pull nearly 85mph in second gear without hitting the limiter s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
s:D :D s:D well done on at all the work and all the top men on this 2zz mr2. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
its all bean worth it, for you to drive, the others to work on and for us to see and admire all the money/work/love that gone into this whole project s8) 8) s8) s8) 8) s8)
Hey Steve these are the cables in question. I think I may have an extra cable and thats what messing me up. The ground on the top left. Where on the body does that go? That other wire I cant remember for the life of me. I think thats the extra wire. The end of that wire seems like it was from the other harness but Im not sure.
(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/triz369/Spyder/2zz%20swap/IMAG0227.jpg)
Hi Triz, don't think i have that one on mine s:? :? s:? like you say it looks to come from the 2zz loom , if you have all the 1zz earths in place i'd say your safe to remove it.
Been in the shed again tonight having a look at the turbo, first i fit a 90degree adapter to the oil line as i had to clock the turbo to get the drain to be perfectly vertical when on the car and in it's new position the oil line would foul the housing without a 90degree fitting.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0238.jpg)
I then checked the blades on the inducer,these should be good as i had a new CHRA (all moving parts in centre cartridge) fitted by a garrett dealer not long ago and the turbo can't have done 2000miles since.
Looks ok
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0240-1.jpg)
Next i moved onto the manifold itself, you can see where the port matching was out by the soot marks on the 1zz,don't get me wrong it worked very well indeed but as the exhaust ports on a 2zz are oval i may aswell port match the manifold to suit.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0236.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMAG0237.jpg)
This is where i need a bit of advice, what kind of stone do i need to remove material from a cast iron manifold?
i have a dremel type tool but will buy some genuine dremel bits to do the job.
Quote from: "steve b"Rogue Motorsport when i collected my 2ZZ from them, knowing I have a GT2860RS MX5 said whatever I do don't turbo it as if used on track or hard in general it'll last all of 5 minutes.
These are not strong engines.
Stock cooling system doesn't cope with just the 2ZZ, quarter of an hour of track work gets me up to 108oC, they said all the V6 or 2ZZ track only / race cars they build have the front reworked to have a high volume rad and vented ducted bonnet a la Elise.
Would a remote high flow water pump be a good idea too?
Chris
I'm not sure, i haven't noticed any overheating at all, in fact my oil temps are lower on the 2zz than on the 1zz, the coolant reaches the normal temp and just stays there no matter what i do. If i do see any rise in temp i'll look into a higher flow radiator but for the moment it is behaving very well.
Steve thanks for the pic. It did help me with one of the wires. Seems I didnt remove it when I did the transmsiion swap and that where my negative battery cable went. Still trying to see where that short black wire went.
Your build is coming along great!
Well it's been a while, and i can report the 2zz is running perfectly still and has proven itself to be a good reliable engine,so it's time to start stage two and turbocharge it. As mentioned earlier in the thread i will be using the che cast turbo manifold from my 1zz, on the 1zz much like the Hass kit the turbo sits very low and the oil drain isn't great,also the intake sits very near the gearbox so over the last few days myself Nic and a few others have been thinking of ways to overcome this. Today whilst porting out the manifold to suit the 2zz's oval exhaust ports i had a bonkers idea, looking at the ports they are symmetrical so i offered the manifold to the engine upside down and an idea popped into my head, if i re drill the mounting holes i can fit the manifold upside down and use it as a top mount setup s8) 8) s8) a few bits of tinkering later and here are the results, clearance appears good too on the car,here it is fitted to my old 1zz for test purposes.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20121117_172942_zps958310c4.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20121117_173000_zpsf38bc299.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20121117_173010_zps2c368337.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20121117_160741_zps04e88c1d.jpg)
Doing it this way has a few benefits, the drain can be vertical and has sufficient drop to allow gravity to do it's work, the intake is high up and clear of any obstruction making the boost circuit very simple and it looks great too s8) 8) s8)
Top mount looks like an interesting route and sounds like it has a good few plus points too!!
Have you given any thought on bracing for the turbo in that position??
Yes once i fit it to the 2zz i will brace it to the block and fix it in its final position, still in the design stage at the moment.
If the 2zz has the exhaust brace points on the block, it should make for a nice neat brace solution, with say, and adjustable turnbuckle as the strut or something like that. Looks good. How willl the efficiency of the turbo be at the higher revs of the 2zz Steve?
I'm sure i can find a suitable bolt hole, in fact there is a stud sticking out of the block in pretty much an ideal place on the 2zz block,think it was for supporting the stock corolla manifold. I'm not sure how the turbo matches up with the 2zz to be honest,but as it's the only turbo i have guess i will find out s:D :D s:D it's a gt28r so it should be reasonable and i don't want any more than 6-7psi anyway.
I'm sure 7 psi will be, er 'sufficient!' lol Actually, flipping immense!! s8) 8) s8)
Good luck with it mate, hope it all installs well. s:) :) s:)
Boost gets you laid mate s;) ;) s;)
Or so the sticker on my tuners car says lol
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
One question .... does this fit in the space between the engine and the panel running across the engine bay where the lid cover catch is?
It does make the intake a lot more friendly like this though s:D :D s:D
According to the cardboard template i made it should fit in, it's close but enough to allow some movement of the engine assembly,only way i'll know for sure is when i offer it to the 2zz and see if it will go into the space available. The latch beam isn't an issue as it sits below that, if anything it will be the triangulation bars that go from the chassis rail to the latch beam,if that's the case i'll notch them out where required.
,
My PE turbo mounts the turbo that way. Be interested on what it produces on boost as im looking at having my max pressure at 6psi so I can try and stay below the 280bhp gearbox eating level.
I'm going to use the Greddy E-01 boost controller that came with the Hass kit so i can reference the boost pressure against RPM, that way i can limit boost until say 4000rpm then bring it upto full boost gradually and reduce the strain on the gearbox, that is the plan at the moment anyhow.
That's what im looking at doing with the emerald ecu as it can control its own boost controller.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"My PE turbo mounts the turbo that way. Be interested on what it produces on boost as I'm looking at having my max pressure at 6psi so I can try and stay below the 280bhp gearbox eating level.
you will be safe a PE at 6 psi won't even get close to 280bhp
PS its torque that kills the gearbox, not the power
Everytime I drop my gearbox fluid there is mote and more copper in there lol oops
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
copper?
Yeah from my synchros wearing away into nothing lol they leave a coppery colour residue floating in the oil
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Quote from: "markiii"Quote from: "rbuckingham"My PE turbo mounts the turbo that way. Be interested on what it produces on boost as I'm looking at having my max pressure at 6psi so I can try and stay below the 280bhp gearbox eating level.
you will be safe a PE at 6 psi won't even get close to 280bhp
PS its torque that kills the gearbox, not the power
I know its the torque that does it mate, but if I remember the conversations with Chris its around that power the torque getting a bit to much. Thinking out loud what would be the gearbox eating torque figure???
Oh and the turbo not a PE turbo anymore its a turbo from a Nissan skyline gtr the new r35 so should have the guts.
Interesting project, I'm too impatient I would want to get everything finished so I could experience the power of a 2zz turbo quickly. Keep up the good work! Plus keep the pictures coming! s:) :) s:)
Well as it's Christmas and there is nothing worthwhile on tv i thought i'd update this thread a little. Firstly i discovered the turbo i have isn't big enough for the 2zz ,the gt28r or gt2560 to give it it's correct title will not flow enough once the vvtl-i engages the high cam, it's perfect for a 1zz but would stop me using lift on the 2zz which kind of defeats the object. So the options were sell the gt28r and buy a larger turbo or try something different.
Here is the something different
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20121223_013550_zpsf61a52a2.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20121223_013623_zps82cb2f10.jpg)
I picked up an m62 supercharger from an early mercedes slk230 for a very good price, so i think this is the direction i will now take.
My rationale behind this is the exige s uses am mp62 supercharger to produce around 270hp , this would be ideal for me and being a supercharger the power would be instant and the torque curve very flat s:D :D s:D The exige charger is slightly more efficient than mine but mine will be chargecooled which should level the playing field. The other advantage of the mercedes charger is it has an electro magnetic pulley which freewheels until you apply 12v to it's connector, this coupled with a vacuum switch would mean my engine can run without any drag from the charger until the throttle is buried ,so on cruise and overrun the charger is disconnected but as soon as the throttle is pressed the sensor will detect the drop in vacuum and activate the charger s8) 8) s8)
And now the science bit s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Eaton m62: Displacement: 1.035 liters = 1035cc
Max. Outlet Pressure: 2.0 Bar
Max Speed Cont (inst.): 14,000 (16,000)
Flow at Max. Speed @ 1.8 Bar: 810 cubic meters / hour.
2zz-ge engine:
Engine max rpm: 8300 crank pulley dia.: 130mm
Eaton Supercharger pulley dia.: 95mm
Ratio: 130/95=1.36
From the Eaton specs I have mentioned above the M62 flows 1035cc per crank turn. Therefore we have,
1035cc x 1.36= 1407cc per crank turn
1407 - 900 (1/2 engine cc) = Extra flow of 507cc per crank turn
507/900 = 0.56 bar (8.1psi)
At max engine rpm the max speed of supercharger is: 1.36 x 8300 = 11,288rpm
I have used various boost calculators on the net and all come up with a pressure of 7-8psi which should make some good power i hope ,then again i could be completely wrong as i've never played with a supercharger before s:D :D s:D
All sounds right mate but I might hold off the 8 psi. Also anything over 6 psi its recommended to have a recirc valve in the system. How's the fit going to be?
Much more sensible idea for the 2ZZGE I think, its what i'd do if I ever boost mine. I think you may need to cut the bulkhead to make room for it, what would be ideal is getting a laminova cored manifold so you are charge cooled supercharged. Better solution than a rear mount intercooler, just run hose pipes and stick another small rad up front. Its the VX220 supercharger route.
P.S I did about 5 more track days over the summer with the 2ZZGE, I ended up fitting a high volume alloy rad and that cured it getting hot on track. Also had it partial throttle remapped by Ryan at 2 bar tuning as wasn't happy with it on very light throttle inputs.
Heres how mine looks now :-
(http://www.steve-bowen.co.uk/steve-bowen.com/mk3%20mr2/mr2%20front%20under%20bonnet.jpg)
(http://www.steve-bowen.co.uk/steve-bowen.com/mk3%20mr2/mr22zzge.jpg)
The m62 is fairly small and i will either fit it below the alternator on the back of the engine (plenty of room)or i can fit it on the exhaust side of the engine, and will have clearance as i will be having a better manifold made because the che one is rubbish. My setup will be chargecooled as i have a PWR chargecooler and the pump and rad mounted up front still from my turbo setup and unlike the exige where the charger is part of the manifold mine can be cooled easily just as a turbo setup. The early m62 like this one doesn't have an internal recirc valve but that's no problem at all as i can fit one into the boost circuit very easily,however on the merc charger it's not necessary as once vacuum is detected the magnetic clutch disengages the charger so it free wheels and doesn't produce boost. The 8psi is a best outcome situation, taking into account pressure drop and wear etc i may see anything from 6psi to 8psi and it will make what it makes but either way it should be fun.
I see your point but when the butterfly closes you want to remove the pressure in the intake track just like a turbo. But as you say its an easy thing to install to the boost system.
To be honest i'm looking at just installing a dump valve, this should just vent any excess pressure out however i may use one of those plastic bosch ones so it's silent.
Well if its of any help mate I got a recirc dump valve from what I was going to use on my supercharger. Now due to turbo and the fact it runs an atmospheric dump valve I a don't need the recirc anymore.
Thanks, i'll give you a shout when i get going with it all s8) 8) s8)
Spent a bit of time looking at all the after market lotus kits, the one monkey wrench sell you could see if they'd only sell the manifold then plumb your PWR in place of the intercooler that'd be a nice solution. The katana 2 manifold also looked good.
Well this weekend myself and a friend made an epic ( considering the snow ) roadtrip down to Cardiff where i purchased a second hand ,but never actually been on a car, power fc. I was very lucky to get this for the same price i sold my 1zz version for, and even luckier that Rich ,the guy i bought it from saved it for me until mine was sold s:grin: :grin: s:grin:
I was over the moon when i plugged it in and discovered it is one of the new EL display versions too, i think it looks the business s8-) 8-) s8-)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130120_221948_zpsf0273204.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130123_225302_LLS_zps6857e1e4.jpg)
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Nice s8) 8) s8)
Love it Steve, great result! s:D :D s:D
Did you have to extend the commander wiring?
Cheers,
Paul
No oddly enough, i think because the new style commander is universal they supply it with a longer cord.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Today i didn't have much planned so i decided to go begin stripping the corolla 2zz gearbox ready for making a hybrid of that and my 1zz roadster box.
The plan is to take the internals of the 2zz box and fit them into the 1zz casing,whilst doing this i will swap the 1zz LSD into the 2zz final drive , another mod i plan to do is to fit the roadster 6th ratio. So the effect should be fast acceleration from 1 to 5 and then a high 6 for motorway cruising.
Here is the 2zz box with the end casing off showing 5th and 6th gears and the selector fork.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130209_143952_zps29bcc6aa.jpg)
Here are all the parts from the 2zz 5th and 6th gear assemblies namely the gears , synchro hubs,spacers,clips and bearings.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130209_202335_zps19242b58.jpg)
Here is the 2zz box with it's mid case removed and the differential lifted out(you can gently lift the two gearsets as one and remove the diff if you're careful),i shouldn't need to strip any more as the bellhousing is the same,i will bolt the 1zz mid case to the 2zz bellhousing on re-assembly.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130209_202309_zpsee07e6cd.jpg)
And here is the final drive crown wheel from the 2zz differential(1zz and 2zz are different size), ready to have the roadster LSD bolted into it
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130209_202317_zps4f53e1bb.jpg)
Next step is to remove the 1zz box and perform the same steps to that, then create the hybrid box s:D :D s:D
On further research i have found that the 6th is in fact the same on both transmissions but here are the ratios to compare
Roadster 6sp
1 3.166
2 1.904
3 1.310
4 0.969
5 0.815
6 0.725
R 3.250
Final drive 3.914
2zz 6sp
1 3.166
2 2.050
3 1.481
4 1.166
5 0.916
6 0.725
R 3.250
Final drive 4.529
Looks like i can just swap the whole lot into the roadster casing,fit the LSD to the 4.529 final drive and it will work s:D :D s:D
Yesterday this arrived in the post
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130214_194039_zpsf6e7b37f.jpg)
it's the che lotus style exhaust, i got up early this morning and went out to fit it s:D :D s:D
It's not a perfect fit and requires a little 'persuasion' at the cat joint,the cat heat shiel removing and also the supplies bolts are too short so you need to get your own.These points aside it's not a bad job and is very light s:D :D s:D
Here it is mid fitting
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130215_102846_zps198617a5.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130215_102854_zpsad39fa21.jpg)
and here is the fitted system, sounds quieter than i expected but i suspect it will burn in over time and i'm also removing the 1zz cat section soon for a better solution s8) 8) s8)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130215_104935_zps4f6d7f36.jpg)
Once it's burned in i will make a sound clip and post it up s:D :D s:D
Nice Steve, good to see it fitting the bumper properly.
From a planet somewhere nearby
Cheers Nic, but as you know my bumper is already notched out from my previous system so on a stock bumper it would be very close, depending on how hot it gets you may have to notch the standard bumper to fit one.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
This weekend aided and abetted by VinnyP,Stacey,Alan,Rhiana and Kieren we set about removing my gearbox and transplanting the 2zz internals into the roadster case, it turns out pressing gears back onto the shaft is very difficult but we got there in the end, also the corolla and roadster 6th gear are in fact different no matter what spyderchat says, i had them side by side and they are different sizes, so i went with the roadster 6th to drop the revs down on the motorway. Here are some pics from the weekend
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_104914_zps5f5f9f87.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_124704_zps49494fd1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_124640_zps30fd8bf7.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_124654_zpscbc19954.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_104918_zps36f8ad4f.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_124621_zps286a6ebb.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_143958_zps024038f7.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130216_144002_zps5a22d2b5.jpg)
I have today driven home from Birmingham,115miles mostly motorway and can report the car is a riot to drive now, it pulls like a train in every gear. Lift is so easy to reach now and it's easy to stay in lift on the upshift, a fantastic job so thanks to all involved s:D :D s:D
2ZZ with the right ratios are good aren't they :-) :-) :-)
Very good s:) :) s:)
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
For info the greddy Celica mp62 kit fits with no bulkhead modification but the alternator bracket won't - this apparently breaks on Celicas lots anyway so a bespoke item would be wanted anyway. Monkey wrench dropped the charger kit price by $600 about a month ago so with No ECu it is good value at the minute you get injectors, inlet manifold etc and good for 260bhp. No charge cooling though so that's its limit get a bit more with WI. Keeps the weight down I suppose.
Cheers Steve, one of those kits would be great but not within my budget, i already have an m62 supercharger so i'll be building my own setup, chargecooled of course s:) :) s:)
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Here are a few sound clips of the 2zz playing it's tunes through the che lotus exhaust s:D :D s:D
[youtube:2klhxq0o]KeUsZ1DdZ4A[/youtube:2klhxq0o]
[youtube:2klhxq0o]jn5GXAg-YnQ[/youtube:2klhxq0o]
[youtube:2klhxq0o]C2LfivVXML4[/youtube:2klhxq0o]
And a couple of photo's Pete T took for me the same night , using a process called light painting
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMG_7489_zps12765d04.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/IMG_7497_zps95718a4a.jpg)
The vids work now ^^^^ Doh s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Are you fabricating the manifold yourself? I had flirted with the idea of a supercharger and had talked to MWR ready to buy hence knowing that it fits etc but abandoned the idea as the brackets all appear rubbish and I'd prefer intercooled but only same sort of power as the non-intercooled, Greddy kit (260bhp ish) being able to thrash it for extended periods on track is important to me. I wouldn't trust everything to not dreadfully heatsoak without charge cooling be it air to air or water.
Other manifold / charger I looked at a lot is the Vision Function Lotus setup this I think would need the bulkhead cutting but I don't mind that. This gives provision for charge cooling however you'd want and is listed in their FAQ as available to buy separately.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
I won't need a manifold as i intend to fit the supercharger to the block just above the driveshaft on the exhaust side of the engine, i will fit a heat shield over it and adapt the celica manifold so it goes nowhere near it. This setup should allow me to pipe it up much like a turbo and use my PWR chargecooler. It just so happens that in this position it will nicely sit right where the belt run is s:) :) s:)
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Ok I see, lots of the mx5 kits work in a similar way to that except sit on top of the exhaust manifold then have a crossover pipe which often consists of a pwr cooler :-) :-) :-)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq74/rotaryracer/Mazda%20Miata/IMG_0072.jpg)
I can appreciate the idea that fitting the charger on the cold side of the block will keep temps down, but as my application is low boost and will be chargecooled i think fitting the charger on the hot side will work. I like the idea of fitting above the manifold, will look at that too as a possibility. That mx5 setup looks neat, hope mine comes out that well.
The mx5 kits don't seem to suffer being on the hot side, most are that setup as it avoid the need for a replacement inlet manifold so costs are kept down infact I think there is only one supplier that does cold side kits. It also makes fitting an intercooler or charge cooler much easier. Best setup I've ever seen is the GM cold side setup on the cobalt ss, chargecooler built into the actual inlet manifold from the factory.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Actually putting the charger above the manifold may be a great solution as there are some cast brackets on the block there, originally for the idler pulley or alternator , which would be ideal to bolt a mounting plate to.Will have to check and make sure there is enough room for the charger pulley to align with the crank pulley in that position.
So today i changed the plugs as it was still running on the ones that came in the corolla s:oops: :oops: s:oops: with some shiny new NGK IFR6T11's i know they were the original plugs that came out as they have been discontinued ages ago ( NGK IFR6A11's ) s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Anyway seems to be running well from looking at the plug tips
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130227_235449_zps175c2dc5.jpg)
I also began taking a look at the celica 190 manifold i bought a while back to replace the che header, the stock celica manifold with some work has been proven to give an extra 10whp , the problem in the roadster is that it fouls the subframe. If i can alter it slightly and make it fit then we could have a good,easily found manifold for 2zz swappers that will actually make power not lose it.
Here is the manifold cut from the 2zz flange in order to alter the angle at which it sits.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130227_232712_zps92b84407.jpg)
Looking closely at the collector you can see that there are easy gains to be had, knife edging the divider plates and flattening those welds will give good results for not much work, also porting out the other end at the 2zz flange will help too.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/yingmcding/20130227_232733_zps88e9163e.jpg)
time to get the dremel out and start grinding s:D :D s:D
what chop angle is required for this? I have a 2zz manifold and a tig welder sat in my garage s:) :) s:)
Still working on it, will post when i've worked it out
Quote from: "steve-m-uk"Still working on it, will post when i've worked it out
Or reproduce them s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Indeed s8-) 8-) s8-)
Just seen this thread, all i can say is :O !!!!
Very interested to see your results with the celica manifold and also different positioning of the supercharger. I have been thinking about this for a while but passed on the last cheap ex lotus one that I saw due to the firewall room problem. What are your thoughts on the Eaton m45 as there is one going cheap here that I am looking at.
45 too small, they just blow hot air on 1.6 mx5's, they'd probably do nothing at the too end on a 2ZZGE
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Yep as SteveB said, the 45 is too small, even the 62 is only just big enough, the thing with the 2zz is it can flow a huge amount of air in lift, whilst a 45 would be ok on a regular 1.8 engine the 2zz flows more like a 3litre multivalve engine at the top end, this is why i abandoned the turbocharging, i had a gt28r but whilst it's fine on a 1zz it won't flow nearly enough on a 2zz and would prevent getting into lift.
Or the trd supercharger, has good enough output to make the v6 into something special.
I think Rich means the TRD charger from the Scion Tc, which is a Vortech unit driven by a shaft. That could well work. Some Hondas use a similar setup. And of course, there is the Rotrex, but they can be expensive to get hold of. The vortech unit however, might present a reasonably priced alternative.
I suppose an Eaton M90 would grab too much power to use?
Quote from: "loadswine"I think Rich means the TRD charger from the Scion Tc, which is a Vortech unit driven by a shaft. That could well work. Some Hondas use a similar setup. And of course, there is the Rotrex, but they can be expensive to get hold of. The vortech unit however, might present a reasonably priced alternative.
I suppose an Eaton M90 would grab too much power to use?
Yep that's the one, the rotrex would work well if the got the larger one. But as Steve said the 2zz when in lift is so efficent at getting air in and out it requires a huge CFM otherwise its nothing more than a restricter
Quote from: "steve-m-uk"this is why i abandoned the turbocharging, i had a gt28r but whilst it's fine on a 1zz it won't flow nearly enough on a 2zz and would prevent getting into lift.
When fitted to a 200SX a GT28R will push 300bhp without any hassle - are you aiming for much more than that? GT28R definitely won't stop the 2zz from getting into lift- the 2zz has a way better head than 200sx SR20 (only 150bhp in NA format) so would probably make better power for a given level of boost. I didn't read enough detail in your threads to realise that was the reason you were switching to supercharging... but the supercharger will be way cooler, drive better, and be more reliable, so I won't try to disuade you from your new path s:) :) s:)
It actually does, been proven on spyderchat by those who have tried it, the gt28r chokes the 2zz at high revs , smallest turbo that will work is a gt28rs. Its not about how much power it makes, 300 is ample its about the flow, and a gt28r cannot flow enough to support the 2zz.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Hi mate
daft question but can you tell me if the 5 speed Roadster box is any good for this swop or do I need the later Roadster 6 speed. I have a Corolla 6 speed box and want to use the all the gear from this from this as you did as well as a LSD
George
Quote from: "steve-m-uk"On further research i have found that the 6th is in fact the same on both transmissions but here are the ratios to compare
Roadster 6sp
1 3.166
2 1.904
3 1.310
4 0.969
5 0.815
6 0.725
R 3.250
Final drive 3.914
2zz 6sp
1 3.166
2 2.050
3 1.481
4 1.166
5 0.916
6 0.725
R 3.250
Final drive 4.529
Looks like i can just swap the whole lot into the roadster casing,fit the LSD to the 4.529 final drive and it will work s:D :D s:D
Use the corolla box , fit the roadster lsd to the corolla crown wheel and fit that into the corolla box, then get a roadster 6spd shifter mechanism and fit that to the corolla box. The 5spd will work but it's not ideal.
Depends if you are supercharging. As Steve said the Corolla box is pretty much essential as it keeps the 2zz in 'lift'.. Shift at 8400rpm and land 6200rpm, which keeps it well in its power band. If you're supercharging it, then it's not so important its always in the powerband s:) :) s:)
Thanks guys I am not thinking supercharging so I will look for roadster 6 spd shift mechanism, is that just the gearbox end or the whole lot cables and floor shifter mechanism
Any updates on this?
Never happened, he sold the car and bought an Audi S4 family car.
Ahhh poopers!
I've got Steve's old car , still running spot on although I laid it up over the winter and have just started using it again.
I too have been looking at Super Charging it and spoke to Rogue Motorsport about various options .
m http://www.boefabrication.com/index.php ... percharger (http://www.boefabrication.com/index.php?/boe/product/rev400tvs-lotus-supercharger) m
Boe Fabrication was mentioned as being one of the market leaders for super charging the 2ZZ Engine , not cheap mind.
If I go ahead I will update .
Aha, glad to hear from you, and doubly glad the car is still going and being looked after.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Aha, glad to hear from you, and doubly glad the car is still going and being looked after.
+1 on that s:) :) s:)
Was a big shame to see it vanish completely but glad its still about
What did they quote you?
Glad to hear the car is still going great s:) :) s:)
have you looked at Se7en motorsports they supercharge quite a few 2ZZ celicas I seem to remember him doing a mr2 and opening a topic on here not that long ago
just looked it up its on page 7 its a 2zz turbo install