I have searched the forums but could not find to help.
My front end goes very light when accelerating beyond around 70/75 mph. It's very noticeable and it's something I would like to improve.
All three plastic trims are in place under the front bumper - one each in front of the wheels and the bigger one in the centre. I have removed the front space saver wheel from the frunk as I am installing an amp in there. It's quite heavy but nowhere near as heavy as the spare wheel.
Tyres are standard staggered FL sizes and good condition Bridgestone RE40's all round. I have experimented with tyre pressures but this has not made any real difference to the lightness at speed.
Suspension is also standard and has never been modified and the alignment is spot on.
Worth mentioning also is that whilst I have reduced the front weight by removing the spare wheel I have had a zero manifold and Janspeed centre exit system fitted which reduced the rear weight by a similar amount.
It feels like it needs a front spoiler but this would look quite strange!!!
Any ides on how to increase front down lift?
Thanks
Front splitter? Combined with a rear diffuser could cause a fair amount of downforce if it was well made.
Then again I'm no pro
A quick fix might be just to move your battery? Otherwise This isn't a bad explanation of what each bit of aerodynamic add-ons can do..http://www.rapid-racer.com/aerodynamic-upgrades.php and brush up on your C.F.D.
Cheers
Martin..
PS: revision notes here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computational_fluid_dynamics
Put the spare wheel back and see what happens
I think you need to find the source of your problem, not try to counter act it. They do go slightly lighter as you pick up speed, but nothing that you should feel dangerous about, I certainly never had any problems on track days with too light at the front, my problem was always oversteer.
How old are your front tyres compared to the rears?
How old / mileage is the suspension?
Would be worth having a 4-wheel geo check.
Taking the spare wheel has been known to cause a little loss of stability at the front end ... so worth dropping it back in to compare.
A decent uprated ARB will make the car feel much more planted at higher speeds, especially cornering.
Quote from: "Jrichards20"I think you need to find the source of your problem, not try to counter act it. They do go slightly lighter as you pick up speed, but nothing that you should feel dangerous about, I certainly never had any problems on track days with too light at the front, my problem was always oversteer.
I agree with this. If you have worn suspension bushes anywhere it will leave the car feeling vague and will kill confidence - you may just be feeling the car moving around more as the tyres aren't being directed as precisely as intended! Mine felt fine being thrown through fast chicanes at 90mph on track, never a hint of lift at the front.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Suspension is in great condition with no problems anywhere although appreciate some bushes could be worn none are worn enough to show.
Front and rear tyres have pretty much the same amount of tread.
Can't put the spare wheel back as modified this area in preparation for the amp install.
It does not feel dangerous but I can definately feel it go light up front which is what I would like to fix.
Maybe I need to book a track day and find out how well it reacts at high speed.
It has crossed 60000 so maybe it's time for a suspension update.
Do it! Good thing about fault finding at the track is that the harsh conditions will highlight the problem area soon enough, makes it much easier to diagnose!
Would be good to hear from other owners which tracks they have found best suit the MR2's strengths. Thinking one with short straights and lots of sharp turns, preferably in the South East.
Quote from: "Eastsoutheast"Would be good to hear from other owners which tracks they have found best suit the MR2's strengths. Thinking one with short straights and lots of sharp turns, preferably in the South East.
I'm a fan of brands hatch. The Indy circuit is well suited to the mr2 - there are plenty of vids in my build thread s:) :) s:)
I've never ran my car on track with a spare wheel or a storage box in; and it's never felt light on the front
Likewise, I ran mine for quite some time without a spare and never had instability at speed.
However we have better control with coilover suspension and I ran a 10 degree cant which obviously helps to overcome front end lightness.
give snetterton a go, its a bit cheaper than brands, but has longer straights, but the is a whopper of a bend on there which would be great to check your problem out, a long long right hander very exciting push the car round that corner and realising how much grip these little cars have s:) :) s:)
That's a couple of tracks worth trying then. Do members on here get together for any track days?
Given your location I would do bedford autodrome as a nice circuit that's very local. (I do it fairly often and really enjoy it) the mr2 is a bit slow down the main back straight but I just let people by here and then try and catch them back up through the twisty bits. The front of the car is fairly light (you can even pick the front of the car up) but it shouldnt effect the handling.
It couldn't be anything to do with what you said in another thread about hitting something in the road earlier ?? Just worth a thought... I am not mechanically minded enough to say what damage could cause a floaty front end... unlike some of the experts on here who have all been very helpful in diagnosing my 2s probs, but occasionally my front end does not seem as planted at high speed, but that could just be due to the fact I dont go above 75 very often s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Quote from: "mikey P"Given your location I would do bedford autodrome as a nice circuit that's very local. (I do it fairly often and really enjoy it) the mr2 is a bit slow down the main back straight but I just let people by here and then try and catch them back up through the twisty bits. The front of the car is fairly light (you can even pick the front of the car up) but it shouldnt effect the handling.
My MR2 isn't trackable yet, but my 200sx is... Give a shout when you're heading out, will see if my bro and I can wheel the ol' girl out for a thrash! I agree with this recommendation, Bedford feels like a proper race circuit (quality of surface, has curbs, etc) but in most of the track there's very little to hit which is a nice bonus.
If you've knocked something get your alignment checked, it'll wonder all over if geometry is off!
Bedford is on my list too s:) :) s:)
Bedford autochrome sounds like something worth arranging. When I finally had the nerve to check underneath the only damage I found was a dent in a roll or stabiliser bar approx 30/40% along the car (from the front). I had noticed the lightness at speed before this but that's not to say I will need to get this item replaced at some point.
The car drives absolutely straight and true at all speeds so I am pretty confident my geometry is still OK.
I would need to change my tyres, brake discs and pads as a minimum for a track day but not sure what else would need to be done.
Why would you need to change your tyres, discs and pads?!
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Why would you need to change your tyres, discs and pads?!
my thoughts exactly! Before you change them is when you want to get on a track day s:) :) s:) then change them after, no point getting brand new tyres just for a track day. Or discs and pads.
I have already planned to change tyres and another forum member is waiting for my wheels and tyres, I can't give him badly worn/bald tyres.
My brake pads are all at least 50% worn so I am not 100% they would last a day on the track. I would take the opportunity to fit some decent aftermarket disc and pads. Not sure if I would also need to change the brake fluid for track use, it was changed last year by Toyota so is fresh but standard.
What pads do you have currently? I use EBC Yellow Stuff for about £60 per axle from Camskill - these are plenty good enough for a stock MR2 on track.
With regards to your aligment, plenty of the big franchises do a free check, so it's worth popping along and making sure for certain that nothing is wrong. If there is something off then it'd be a shame to do a trackday with a compromised car, but whilst you are there you could let another owner drive the car (not necessarily on track if you are worried) and tell you how it compares to their car.
The factory discs on the MR2 are more than enough stopping power for a non modified 2. If you want to put ebc pads on start on green, they are enough. I wouldn't make upgrading discs as a priority as they are very good standard. what you need to do is just take some EBC pads with you on the day, if they wear out, only takes 30mins to change them over, especially if you are there with a couple of owners like mark or me there will make changing them over no problem.
I did create a front vent in the hood, in order to generate downforce.
here is a link to the result, it works incredibly well :
m http://www.mrs-passion.com/forum/downlo ... &mode=view (http://www.mrs-passion.com/forum/download/file.php?id=5094&mode=view) m
That front vent is an interesting and unique solution.
I will look at getting some pads as suggested and keep my stock discs as they are in decent condition.
Will be attending ding day so may well still get the alignment checked whilst there.
Wish I could change a set of pads in 20 minutes. Can they be changed without having to bleed the brakes as mine are close ish to needing replacement and I would prefer to do it myself.
Maybe we could arrange a track day at Bedford aerodrome and get as many members along as possible?
Front pads really do only take 20mins to replace.
No bleeding required.
I'd be interested in a day at Bedford!
front pads are dead easy. Wheels off, couple of bolts to undo calliper, pads out, new pads in, bit of grease, back in calliper. Calliper back over disc. Wheel back on. The most difficult bit is sometimes the calliper piston needs to be push back in, but a bit of flat wood and some sort of tool that can apply pressure like a clamp or even a large plier to move it in slightly. But all in all, a very very easy job to do.
Quote from: "SFerrari"I did create a front vent in the hood, in order to generate downforce.
here is a link to the result, it works incredibly well :
m http://www.mrs-passion.com/forum/downlo ... &mode=view (http://www.mrs-passion.com/forum/download/file.php?id=5094&mode=view) m
Some more pics about the air vent :
(http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u381/renefeli3/20141220_121141_zpsjd0p3vsg.jpg) (http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/renefeli3/media/20141220_121141_zpsjd0p3vsg.jpg.html)
(http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u381/renefeli3/20141220_121245_zpshievs5fo.jpg) (http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/renefeli3/media/20141220_121245_zpshievs5fo.jpg.html)
This vent... Is it sucking air out from the rad? I can't see the pictures well enough to figure it out. Matched with a splitter & venturi floor, that could be a decent idea.
I don't get how that vent works assuming what's under the bonnet is stock. But as said, if the air was channeled smoothly to under the car and the bottom had a venturi of sorts... That'd be cool
The incoming air is fully directed to the rad, going through it and exiting to the vent, creating downforce to the car front end.
Very efficient. The car now feels stuck to the road, no more floating feeling.
Oh now I see it! Didn't see the panel behind the rad pushing the air up. That is brilliant!
Similar idea to the Elise then ..... if it works for Lotus then it should work for anyone.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Oh now I see it! Didn't see the panel behind the rad pushing the air up. That is brilliant!
Thanks s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I just tried to gather all the existing system into something I was able to setup with my hands (and no tools).
Pretty much happy with the result, at (almost) no cost.
Really like this idea... This may need to be added to list of possible mods
That looks pretty neat.
Interested in it myself.
I can't get the link to work; Does the link work for everyone else? Might be because I'm on tapatalk
Link does nothing. Think it was just a link to the pics posted later.
This is right up your alley!
yes, the link is the same as the pics posted after :-) :-) :-)
Some more info / pics of what you did would be pretty good!
It does seem a really great mod with real benefits. How easy is it to replicate and if you could would you do it any differently having done it already?
Thanks
Rogue has a similar set up that seems pretty decent. Been looking at it myself. It's effectively a funnel running from behing the radiator up to the bonnet with a large meshed square in the middle of th bonnet for air to escape.
I'd definitely grill the top and put water drain holes (small) in the bottom of the funnel,being a daily driver.
As I have a large hole there I might now have to rethink in covering it. Oh well more work lol.
It's also extremely useful if you have a sealed off floor, to maintain good airflow to the rad.
Lotus are generally the best manufacturers to copy when it comes to aerodynamics & ground effect. Although the Exige rear diffuser is set up at too aggressive an angle stock, and creates flow separation s:D :D s:D
All food for though, though!
s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I've been keeping an eye on this to do the same thing:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-MR2-MRS-Roadster-CARBON-FIBER-00-05-Vented-Bonnet-inc-MESH-/251632146251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a9671d74b
They made a non-carbon version but looking at your effort SFerrari, I may just have to get my angle grinder out instead! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Just make sure you make the shape of the vent right, so as to suck air out from the rad. Essentially a diffuser in the bay. Don't be tempted to duct it to the base of the windscreen either. That wouldn't work at all, and would probably restrict airflow to the rad!
Smack bang in the middle of the the bonnet is about best - though I like my little storage hole, so I might make ducts each side as & when.
Interesting idea cutting hole. Not sure it adds any aero effects on the Elise. Its done as the radiator is horizontal instead of vertical so needs this to get air flow through it. (Always used to be problem on the Elise in the rain as when the rain hit it you would get lots of steam coming up off it).
As per the general interest, thanks for that, I'll try to post more pics of the whole setup, but it needs to get a fully empty front trunk (including removing steering pump in my case to have more room, but it could possibly stay in place but not ideal).
I have weighted the car today, at local MOT, and I've reached 840kg whitout hard top (considering it weights 30kg but not sure) and with full gas tank. s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:
Cheers
Judging by how heavy everything in the roadster is, I should think losing weight is pretty easy on them. Mx5's seem like there's nowt left to strip in comparison s:D :D s:D
As/when I flat floor mine, I expect I'll just vent the bonnet in a way to suck air out. With the aircon rad removed and a twin core rad that should be plenty cooling.
That carbon bonnet looks really good but would not really suit my car. I like the idea of a subtle mod that retains as stock a look as possible. Seems there is a lot to think about before proceeding but if done well could prove to be a really decent mod.
I would be extremely cautious about modifying the aerodynamics. Has Sferrari had his car in a wind tunnel that shows it is causing greater downforce. I would be worried that creating a vent in the bonnet may actually lower the downforce created by upsetting the windflow essentially pushing down over the bonnet holding the car to the ground. As mentioned above the vents in the elise are there for airflow for the radiator as it is mounted flat. I'm not an aerodynamics engineer but just some more food for thought if you were thinking of this, would it help, or possibly hinder your downforce depending on the placement of the vent.
im no expert but I thought sucking air from below the car would be better than from the front, but I can also see merit of moving the max amount of air from the front and pushing it over the car. Air movement on stock with mostly be forced under the car after going through the rad which is the wrong side. but as said im no expert on this, just looking at it from a logical point
Quote from: "rbuckingham"I'm no expert but I thought sucking air from below the car would be better than from the front, but I can also see merit of moving the max amount of air from the front and pushing it over the car. Air movement on stock with mostly be forced under the car after going through the rad which is the wrong side. but as said I'm no expert on this, just looking at it from a logical point
If this was the case, I would not expect the venturi floors to start from the front of the car. In my opinion, again same as you not an expert, the air under the car would be better of served being directed to the rear of the car and using a diffuser to increase down force.
Taking air from the front and sending it up and over the top is best. Lotus use the horizontal rad because of the bonnet outlet location, not the other way around. When unducted air exists under the car from the engine bay it is slow and low energy, which makes the(already unstable) airflow under the car turbulent and blocks the air coming under the front bumper, causing lift. If you eliminate this exit path you make a net downforce gain (even if in absolute terms it is still in lift). If you combine with a flat floor you can get into real downforce.
Downforce and lift is all about air speed. Low speed = high pressure and vice versa. If you have high speed flow over a surface it tries to pull the surface - if this is over the bonnet, body etc, you get lift; if this is under the floor or a wing this gives downforce. The air going over the bonnet creates lift anyway - watch some videos from A2 Windtunnel (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pplOtFq_2PY) and you'll see the smoke trail is compressed as it speeds up over the bonnet (on every car), even when the wand is about a metre above the car. This means it is a good point to put the radiator outlet duct, as this low pressure over the bonnet will pull air out of the rad, aiding cooling even more. Forget about air particles bouncing off the car or wing, or whatever, and start thinking in terms of flow speed, and you'll start to imagine the airflow better.
One of the things with car aero that sometimes takes a bit of time to get your head around is that the diffuser is not really there to make downforce; it is actually to decelerate the air coming under the floor so that it is slow enough to join with the air coming around the sides and over the top of the car - think of it in terms of speed again; if the airflow out the back of the diffuser is faster than free stream you have lower pressure in the diffuser, and so the free stream air (going slower - therfore higher pressure) will try to get in from behind and cause the floor to stall due to the blockage at the back. This means the airflow right the way to the front bumper is slowed, and so you won't make as much front downforce compared to if you used a diffuser to balance the speed/pressure. Group C cars with the dirty great big tunnels worked by the floor making huge front downforce, and then the equally enormous rear wing balanced this. The tunnels/diffuser are there to make front biased downforce.
For this 'macro aerodynamics' you don't need a wind tunnel, you just need to be able to imagine what the flows are doing!
Fairly accurate description. Nice to be in a community where people are keen on fluid dynamics. Race car aerodynamics books make for great reading, and are well worth investing in. If I didn't want to keep the frunk, I'd make a vented area not too dissimilar to an elise, and make ducts to the front brakes, too.
As it stands, I *may* make two (slightly more subtle) vents on each side of the frunk, nearing the rear of the bonnet, when I make the venturi floor.
What was said about diffusers is kind of correct, though it's not to *slow* the airflow, it is to expand the space so that the slowing airflow has somewhere to go without causing high pressure, while eliminating flow separation which causes drag.
Interesting trivia: Did you know there is more drag at the rear of the car than the front? This is caused by the vacuum created by an object moving through air. So large frontal area is not the biggest concern with high speed vehicles, but in fact how large the rear of the car is. Note how low to the ground LMP race cars rear ends' are s:) :) s:)
Ok, I think everything I have posted so far has been corrected, so another thing that entered my mind that hopefully someone can tell me that it doesn't matter either. If you are increasing the speed of the air through the radiator, in normal driving condition it will be fine, but during higher speeds, if the airflow through the radiator is increased too much, surely that will reduce the cooling effects as the air passing through would not be able to "absorb" the heat (not entirely sure of the physics here, but in my idiots guide that's what I interporate). Hence why some radiators have a slight forward lean, to slow the airflow down before entering the rad to "absorb" the heat and then have designed the vent on the outside to draw it out?
I suspect the cooling effect is proportional to the mass of air not the speed thus if you want more cooling you fit a larger radiator (or one with a greater cooling area).
Long time since I've done physics though s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "doodlepugg"Nice to be in a community where people are keen on fluid dynamics.
I'm dead keen on it; I blitzed this stuff at uni, but then went to work for Mercedes HighPerformanceEngines, so although F1 there was no aero involved!
Quote from: "doodlepugg"As it stands, I *may* make two (slightly more subtle) vents on each side of the frunk, nearing the rear of the bonnet, when I make the venturi floor.
do it... do it... do it...
Quote from: "doodlepugg"What was said about diffusers is kind of correct, though it's not to *slow* the airflow, it is to expand the space so that the slowing airflow has somewhere to go without causing high pressure, while eliminating flow separation which causes drag.
Nope, I maintain my position, as this was the point of my comment! s:) :) s:) The air does not get (appreciably) expanded or compressed in sub-sonic aerodynamics; the changes in pressure are due to speed changes. Air in the diffuser is slowed because there is a greater volume to fill, not because you have X number of molecules going from Y to 2*Y cross sectional area... yes through the throat of the diffuser flow is sped up and so there is a local decrease in pressure/increase in downforce, but the structure exists to get the free stream and underbody flows at a compatible speed/pressure difference to rejoin. Once you get your brain around this you will never look at rake/tunnels the same again... s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
**EDIT** I'll correct myself and say I do agree about the flow separation - it keeps the flow energised so it doesn't stall and block the floor, but I maintain the main function is 'pump' the rest of the floor, not just to make make downforce as an isolated element
Quote from: "doodlepugg"Interesting trivia: Did you know there is more drag at the rear of the car than the front? This is caused by the vacuum created by an object moving through air. So large frontal area is not the biggest concern with high speed vehicles, but in fact how large the rear of the car is. Note how low to the ground LMP race cars rear ends' are s:) :) s:)
Indeed, it is a cool area of development!
Quote from: "mrzwei"I suspect the cooling effect is proportional to the mass of air not the speed thus if you want more cooling you fit a larger radiator (or one with a greater cooling area).
Long time since I've done physics though s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
bang on s:) :) s:)
Ideally you also want as thin a core as possible, since in the second half the air has a much smaller temperature difference due to the heat already absorbed... but we can't run a 5ft wide rad, so compromises are made!
Slanted angles are just about reducing frontal area and where the exit flow is going. An F1 car would cool better if the rads were vertical, but it would have more drag (and look sshit shit sshit )
so stupid terms all air wants to be over the car, so the air that has to go through the front for the rad needs to go up and over, with a rear diffuser not to create downforce but to actually slow down the air from underneath so it is back to same speed as the bit over the top. now my guess is that you want side skirts to stop air from getting under or out, but to be directed from front to back?
Your all nice lads I'm sure but you need to get out more. s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "1979scotte"Your all nice lads I'm sure but you need to get out more. s;) ;) s;)
scott you have seen my car, I need to put it back in one bit before I can get out, its just when I read threads like this I go that's nice and pull it back apart again lol
[quote="jonty"}
Slanted angles are just about reducing frontal area and where the exit flow is going. An F1 car would cool better if the rads were vertical, but it would have more drag (and look ****)[/quote]
Perhaps surprisnly F1 cars have a CD of around 1.0 ( depends on the track and the latest set of rule changes) normal cars, between .25 and .35, those bicycle wheeled solar powered endurance cars .07
Yeah, the problem for F1 cars is the massive drag generated by the open tyres and suspension. That is overcome by the power of the engines and designs that generate serious downforce.
I'm far too tired to make any logical reply! You actually need airflow under the car to utilise ground effect (downforce from the underside of a car) so much so, infact, that if a race cars' splitter hits the floor under braking then it will lose all downforce.
Another fun fact: You can gain far more downforce from ground effect than any wing. This is why F1 cars had restrictions placed on floorpan areas (and to stop cars taking off!) and they now have the raised noses.
Side skirts are indeed desirable to maintain attached flow, and keep the pressure as low as possible under the car.
Getting distracted, so doubt I've made any sense hahaha
WOW my mind is well and truly blown and I bow to the amount of technical knowledge some of you have.
Out of interest is my car (for handling terms) better with or without the plastic nappies under the car? Since fitting the zero manifold and Janspeed system my rear nappy is in the garage and the front one (assuming there is one as standard) is missing.
Thanks
I think they are more there to stop road crud getting up into the engine bay rather than an aerodynamic device, so it prob makes very little difference from a downforce point of view
All I can say at this stage is, after having very well observed what has been done on sport/race cars and using my "engineer" knowledge, the difference on the road is night and day. Before creating the duct and vent, the car was jumping right to left on the road, it was way dangeroulsy floating, jumping... Now the car is grounded, stuck to the road, considering the car is very very light (specially on the front end car).
Now, I'm sure the setup could be improved, specially if stronger material had been used (fiber glass, carbon fiber...), in order to gain in rigidity (unlike the plastic I've been using), so it would increase the downforce gain I beleive...
Fluid dynamics is brilliant fun to play with, as there are so many variables.
As for the under trays, I've not actually looked at them. They will, if designed right, reduce drag under the car considerably. So it is a good idea to keep them all fitted.
Another fun fact: General rule of thumb for testing splitter strength is to stand on it. The forces a splitter encounters at speed exceed that of the weight of average Joe. That's why all the plastic fantastic splitters they stick on mx5's make me laugh. And they wonder why they fall off on track/motorways.
s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "doodlepugg"Another fun fact: General rule of thumb for testing splitter strength is to stand on it.
Hahah, I remember Matt demo-ing that on T400X at dingday s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
One more pic from above :
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx43/gladie_m/20141212_1845225B15D_zpsvfdxzuvx.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/gladie_m/media/20141212_1845225B15D_zpsvfdxzuvx.jpg.html)
Aaahh I see what you've done now. Literally a straight up exit. Fair enough, it's a cool idea! I am a tad pedantic about low drag and the such.
I think someone asked earlier in the thread about if air flowed too fast through the rad would it work effectively. In one of my books on race car aerodynamics it does actually say that you want to slow the air around the rad (or area you want to cool) for maximum effect, and accelerate it away. The most efficient way being to create a kind of venturi, with the rad in the middle, high-pressure/low-velocity area.
I'm hoping to move into a house close to my work, so I can walk... When this happens, expect some made aero experiments to come from me s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
In front of the rad, I've installed some plastic panels ducting all the air going through the front bumper, so all the air incoming is going through the rad, then it exits almost vertically (110 or 120°). The upper and thiner plastic panel above the exit is just there to make the junction with the hood once in place. Behind those panels is an aluminium structure to reinforce the whole setup (you can see the rivets).
I aimed to create something as close as those (not putting the same amount of money in R&D s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen: s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen: ) :
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx43/gladie_m/2830-3_zpsryg3xhqj.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/gladie_m/media/2830-3_zpsryg3xhqj.jpg.html)
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx43/gladie_m/13369105374_3d5dc18613_b_zpsbhjqtaf4.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/gladie_m/media/13369105374_3d5dc18613_b_zpsbhjqtaf4.jpg.html)
Haha, no points for guessing your favourite manufacturer then s:P :P s:P
Fair play to you. Why is it you decided to go vertical instead of more toward the centre of the bonnet? It'd drive my OCD nuts having one near the front s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
Looks like it could almost drive upside down with the downforce it could generate (2nd car pictured).
Haha, yes, I'm kind of loving red toys (but not only) :-) :-) :-)
In fact, I did the vent exit right near the rad, could'nt be any closer to the front of the hood so, and as far as I have observed, the vent should be about in the first third of the hood, not too much in the front not too cloose to the wind screen.
Anyway, all was dictate by how the car is, I couldn't afford any deeper change.
The goal was to be able to create the most downforce, at no cost and with minimum tool (tool anybody have in his garage).
That is real DIY s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen: s:D :D s:D
Nice to see someone thinking a bit outside the box for a simple mod that actually has a significant effect. Nice work!
Quote from: "doodlepugg"Nice to see someone thinking a bit outside the box for a simple mod that actually has a significant effect. Nice work!
Thanks a lot !
Cheers
I had exactly the same issue when I bought mine, felt like it was going to take off any second in one direction or another! I read a lot on here about it and decided to go for new springs, 4 Tein springs later and problem had gone completely. Best £120 spent.